Tuesday, January 31, 2017

January 31, 2017, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter


Hi Gardeners
Sun on Rex begonia

Today in Michigan it’s snowing lightly.  We have returned to winter and the ground has an inch or two of snow covering it.  The bird feeders are covered with birds and my parakeets are chattering to them through the windows.  There must be two dozen junco’s, little gray birds with white bellies, spread across the yard, busy picking at something. 

I had gotten used to going outside with minimal outerwear and having the hose to the barn run.  Now I’m back to bundling up and carrying buckets of water.  Ground Hog day is Thursday and it’s supposed to be sunny, so as the superstition goes he’ll see his shadow and we’ll have 6 more weeks of winter.  (There’s an article about woodchucks/groundhogs in the pages to the right of the main blog.)

We always have 6 more weeks of winter after February 2nd so the groundhog’s shadow means nothing to me, not that any sensible groundhog would be out of its den now.  But it will be wonderful to see the sun.  To date this month we have had only 7 days where it was sunny or partly sunny- mostly partly sunny.  That’s a bad part of being in Michigan’s thumb area in the winter, we get clouds off the Saginaw Bay to the north and Lake Huron to the east.

My houseplants and the plants I am overwintering inside are at their lowest point as far as looks and vitality goes.  Artificial light barely compensates for the loss of the sunlight.  The air is dry from the furnace running so much. Yesterday I removed the overwintering penta from the windowsill, because it had basically dried up.  I found a single still green shoot so there’s hope it can be saved.  I don’t know why I save this one every year anyway. It’s a red flowering one I’ve had for 3 years.  It’s probably at the end of its lifespan anyway. So it’s sitting on the kitchen counter now awaiting my decision as to where to place it now that I’ve cleaned the dead leaves off.

Yes I kill plants.  If a gardener tells you they have never killed a plant they are giving you “alternative facts” or they are a very new gardener. I don’t like to kill plants of course, but every one that dies usually teaches me something. In the penta’s case I should have realized the small pot it was in would dry out very quickly, especially since it was near a heating vent.  It was buried behind other plants and I didn’t notice its condition soon enough.  So I have moved around all my plants to get a good look at them and the remaining part of the sad penta will be moved to a cooler moister place where I can keep a better eye on it.

Don’t be afraid to make a gardening mistake.  We all do.  If you have been gardening more than 50 years as I have (wow, writing that makes me feel really old) you will have made many, many mistakes, but those mistakes probably made you a better gardener.  We learn by doing.  Reading about gardening is good- and I hope all of you like reading about gardening here- but getting your hands dirty is even better.

And plants dying are a part of gardening.  Many times it isn’t your fault; it’s just the nature of life.  Everything has a lifespan, all things die.  For some plants the natural lifespan is only a few weeks, for other plants its decades.  I have plants in my home that are 50 years old.  They may outlive me.  Hopefully someone in the family will adopt them when I’m gone. 

My elderly plants are nothing really rare or valuable but if you do have plants that are really rare or valuable have you ever thought about what would happen if you could no longer care for them? You may want to donate them to a public garden or school program or someone you know would appreciate them.  Or maybe you want to give your heirs a heads up about how valuable they are and what they should be sold for.  Think about who should have the plants and how to make sure they get cared for until they can be transferred to the place of your choice.  Then put those instructions in writing, if not in your will, maybe somewhere else in your important papers.

Red Penta


Gardening in the Zone

If you are new to gardening you may be a little confused about all this zone stuff.  Just what is a gardening zone and what zone am I in?   A gardening zone is determined officially by the United States Department of Agriculture but a few other places have developed their own zone charts.  If you live in another country your Department of Agriculture may have published its own chart, although the USDA chart covers Canada.

A zone chart divides the country into areas by the coldest winter temperatures they may experience and numbers them.  That’s called your winter hardiness zone for gardening.  There’s another USDA zone chart for heat hardiness but it is little used.   Each gardening zone may be further divided into part A and part B.  The colder the winter, the lower the number assigned to the zone.  In the US mainland area, we currently have zones three to eleven.

The USDA gathers data from numerous sites to determine an average maximum low temperature from an area.  As most of us know the climate is changing and the USDA zone map has been revised.  Many gardeners will find that their gardening zone has changed so that they are in a higher numbered zone, in other words, winter has gotten warmer.

The new gardening zone chart has taken into consideration the data from a much greater number of places than previous zone maps.   Even without climate change, the increased range of data may have changed the zone map.

Where to Find Your Gardening Zone

Where can you find this gardening zone map so that you can see what planting zone you are in?   Almost every garden catalog has a zone map somewhere in it.  Most garden reference books do too.  And you could go to the USDA site to find the map also: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/InteractiveMap.aspx

Some places devise their own gardening zone maps, such as the Arbor Day Foundation and Sunset Gardening Publications.  Since most plant sellers use the USDA chart to rate the hardiness of their plants it’s probably best to look your gardening site on the official USDA zone map.

How to Use the Gardening Zone Map Information

The gardening zone chart is used so that consumers can know what perennial plants will survive the winter in their area.  Most plant labels and gardening catalogs will put the zone hardiness rating somewhere in the plant description.  When you choose plants for your garden choose plants that will grow in your zone or a lower numbered zone.

If you are a gardener in zone five you will want to choose plants that are rated hardy to zone five, four or three.  (Zone three is about the coldest area of the mainland United States.)  A plant rated hardy to zone seven would probably not survive the winter in your garden.

While most plants that have been in the market for a while will be assigned pretty accurately to their gardening zone, new plants may be less accurately placed. When new plants are put on the market they will probably have been trialed in a number of places, but until thousands of gardeners are growing the plant, the information about their zone hardiness may be only a guess.   When purchasing newly introduced plants, or even new varieties of familiar garden plants, be aware that the zone hardiness may not be really accurate. 

How to Cheat a Gardening Zone

What if you live in gardening zone five and you really, really, want a plant that is listed hardy to zone six?  Sometimes you can get away with it.  In every yard there are areas we call micro zones, areas where the climate is just a little different from the surrounding area.  It may be up against the south side of the house, in a courtyard, or in a sheltered pocket surrounded by heat holding rocks or cement.   A zone six plant might survive there.

There are other gardening tricks to try too.  Deep mulching or a protective cover might do the trick.  Sometimes plants that mange to survive a few milder winters in the zone will acclimate enough to survive a harsher winter.    Start with small plants of the variety you want to try and plant them in the spring.  Only spend what you can afford to lose on the plant.

If you have always wanted to grow certain types of plants in your garden but you don’t live in the right gardening zone, don’t despair.  New varieties of the plant you are interested in may be developed that expand the gardening zone range.  Keep looking. And when you have been successful in getting a plant to grow in your gardening zone that wasn’t rated hardy for it, share the information with gardening friends and organizations.  That may inspire others in your zone to grow the plant and ultimately get the gardening zone rating changed.


Book review- The Sound of a Wild Snail Eating by Elisabeth Tova Bailey

While this is not a gardening book I think every gardener will enjoy it.  It’s a sweet and stunning little non-fiction book that will take your mind off alternative facts and government turmoil.  And the author is a gardener after all.

When Elizabeth is felled by an unusual virus she picks up traveling she spends months upon months confined to bed, able to do very little.  A friend digs up some wild violets and plunks a common wood snail in them and brings it to her bedside.  And her fascination with the tiny snail begins.

From prone in bed she watches the snail explore the world around his pot of violets every night, returning each morning to sleep in his pot.  Eventually a caretaker helps her make a suitable terrarium home for the snail and Elizabeth can gaze on the miniature world and remember what it was like to be out in nature.  She orders scientific books on snails and props them up so she can study them.

The book weaves Elizabeth’s musings about her condition around fascinating information about what snails, and their relative slugs, are like and how they live their tiny independent lives.  If you as a gardener have ever battled slugs or snails you may think differently about them after you read this book.  These tiny creatures are much more likable than you think. And most do not damage gardens.

Did you know snails like mushrooms and fallen flower petals to eat?  Did you know they can cooperate as a group to escape from confinement? Did you know many species of snails actually manufacture “Cupids darts” in their bodies and then throw them at each other during courtship?  The courtship of snails is extremely sensual; you will be amazed at what biologists through the ages have observed.  In this short and easy to understand book are snail facts that will amaze you.

I remember being fascinated with tiny white snails I saw on moss under a microscope one time and from the book I learned there are hundreds of snail species barely visible to the naked eye. In your garden there are probably large populations of snails you know nothing about, a hidden world.  

I thoroughly enjoyed this book, it was easy and soothing to read, yet full of valuable information.  (And it does have a happy ending, don’t worry.)  Amazon had the Kindle edition on sale- and you can find it at good bookstores.  Try it; I think most garden people will like it.

Is Australian Blushwood a miracle cancer remedy?

This week someone sent me an article about an Australian plant, Blushwood,  (Fontainea picrosperma), and then went on a rant about how it cured cancer and how “Big Pharma” was trying to keep us from getting our hands on this “natural” cure so they could keep selling us drugs.  I could see the article was sensationalized for maximum sharing on line, but was there any truth in it?  I did some research to find out.

The Australian blushwood tree grows in the rainforests of northern Queensland in Australia.  It’s a dioecious understory tree that is relatively common where it grows but the area it grows in is not large.  There are several related species that also grow in distinct areas.  Its habitat is a tropical rainforest and it does not grow well outside of those conditions.  It is an attractive enough shrub/small tree and in the right areas of Australia was sometimes used as an ornamental.  It has small white flowers and red fruit that indigenous animals like.  To see a botanical description and some pictures try this link;  http://keys.trin.org.au/key-server/data/0e0f0504-0103-430d-8004-060d07080d04/media/Html/taxon/Fontainea_picrosperma.htm

Blushwood became famous and highly sought after when a company called QBiotics isolated a chemical compound called EBC-46 from its fruit.  EBC-46 is a protein Kinase C (PKC) inhibitor.  The chemical was injected into solid cancerous tumors of animals and it was found that it rapidly shrank those tumors.  Veterinary trials began and currently there are some small human trials ongoing.  In the trials a single injection is given to the tumor and it causes the blood vessels supplying the tumor to shrink and die.  The first trial results were published in 2014.

There are reservations about the use of EBC-46 in humans because previous PKC inhibitors have had serious or fatal side effects.  Human trials are proceeding cautiously.  Tumors that might be cured with EBC-46 include cutaneous or subcutaneous solid tumors of diseases such as melanoma, head and neck cancer, SCC and BCC of the skin and Merckel cell carcinoma.  To date- at least in published material- no cure of human cancer has been accomplished although tumors have been shrunk and remissions occurred.

So why wouldn’t this make a great herbal remedy?  Why not grow your own?  Why are they keeping this from us?  Big Pharma just wants to sell us drugs! This is the screaming message getting pushed across public forums.  And it’s nonsense.

It was “Big Pharma” that discovered this “drug” in the plant.  As far as I can find Blushwood is not used as an herbal remedy in its natural state.  It’s neither safe nor natural as the clickbait headlines proclaim.  Ingesting plant parts won’t cure you; it will probably kill you, as Blushwood is considered to be toxic.  To get the benefits of certain ingredients in this plant other chemicals have to be removed and the helpful chemicals purified and standardized.  This can’t be done under home conditions; it needs to be done in a lab.  It’s a complicated process and the product and process to get it has been patented by QBiotics.

Developing new drugs from biologicals –plant and animal sources- accounts for about 60% of the medicines we use or that are in development.  Some come because herbal remedies used for ages pointed to it as being helpful, aspirin for example, but others come about because researchers are actively seeking out and testing plants and even animals for new drugs.  Some plants would never have been used in herbal remedies or used very infrequently, because of their toxic nature.  In laboratory conditions however we can isolate compounds that we feel might be useful from those we know to be toxic.

Taxol is a drug used for cancer treatment that comes from yew plants.  However if you went out and made an herbal tea from yew you might very well die after drinking a few swallows of it.  In the case of many herbal remedies too much will kill you, or make you wish you were dead.  Only a few herbal remedies are safe no matter how much you consume, cannabis, for example.  When you produce or gather your own herbal remedies you can never know just how strong those remedies are.  Growing conditions, preparation and many other things can affect the efficacy or toxicity of the remedy. 

Researchers trying drugs for various disease cures like to know just how much of the active ingredients are in each dose.  This is called standardizing dosages and it’s done in laboratory conditions.  Without it results of trials may not be replicable, which to get any drug approved for human use must be done.  And we wouldn’t know what the threshold between cure and death is either if we don’t know what dose of active ingredients was given.

No, you don’t want Blushwood in your herb garden

So this means you should not rush out and try to obtain Blushwood plants or seeds to grow in the herb garden.  First of all the plant is not easy to grow outside its native environment as researchers have found out.  It needs tropical conditions and a relationship with other plants in the understory environment. You need male and female plants to produce fruit and seeds have to go through a treatment to germinate.  There are ongoing studies to determine how to produce the plant in quantity under controlled conditions if it does prove to be helpful.  

Second you cannot just use the plant like other herbal remedies if you were to find it and were able to grow it. The helpful drug must be isolated from the harmful ingredients under laboratory conditions. There is no ingestible form of the plant that is safe.  If you were to inject some homemade concoction you would be more likely to cause great harm than a cure.

Australian nurseries have stopped selling Blushwood plants because they fear people will die experimenting with them.  It is also not legal to sell plants or seed from Australia to places outside Australia.  On line I have seen people begging others to sell them seeds or plants, giving all kinds of sad or greedy reasons that they need them.  Many of these would be illegal transactions and none will be of benefit to any sick person.  Businesses that are advertising seeds or powders made from the plant are frauds and you shouldn’t waste your time and money on them.  What is being advertised is 99% certain not to be from Blushwood and it certainly won’t cure cancer.

So yes, “Big Pharma” will be controlling this drug.  They discovered and developed it.  And they are not keeping the drug from you- if it proves effective you can bet they will sell it.  Without debating drug costs, it’s important to remember that all drugs can’t be replicated at home and there is a cost to produce them.  While we can be cautiously optimistic that this drug will help cure some forms of cancer, it won’t kill all kinds of cancer in all people.  It’s not some ancient herbal remedy unearthed and exploited by drug companies, it’s a product of the drug industry.

So don’t fall for the hype and certainly don’t buy any Fontainea picrosperma products on line or in health food stores unless you enjoy wasting money.

More information- references

Monarda, or  Bee balm for the garden

Monarda or Bee Balm flower
Bee balm or Monarda is a native American wildflower that makes a great garden plant.  It’s pretty, long blooming, attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, provides seeds for birds, smells good, has herbal uses and is extremely easy to grow.  It will grow in sun or partial shade, in many types of soil and in zones 4-8.  The only drawbacks to Monarda are that it spreads very quickly both by runners and seeds and can sometimes take over the perennial bed.  It is also subject to powdery mildew which can leave plants looking ragged.

Monarda has about 20 native species but the most common are Monarda didyma, which has scarlet flowers, M. fistulosa which has pinkish flowers, and M. citriodora and M. pectinate which have pale lavender flowers.  The species are known to hybridize in the wild and many cultivated varieties have been created by crossing species.  Other common names of Monarda include Bergamot, horsemint, and Oswego tea.

Monarda is in the mint family and has squared, lightly grooved stems and a minty smell when crushed.  It is said to smell like Bergamot, a citrus family plant that is used for perfume.  The stems and leaves may have fine hairs or be smooth depending on species.   Leaves are long ovals (lance shaped) arranged opposite on the stems with a pointed tip and serrated edges.  The young leaves and leaves close to flowers often have a purplish tinge.  Monarda dies to the ground in winter but begins growing very early in spring, often as soon as the snow as melted and may even begin to grow in brief thaws.  Plants grow about 3 feet high in good conditions.  Monarda plants have underground stems called stolons that spread along and just under the ground to form a thick mat. 

Native Monarda flowers are pretty enough but many colors of flowers have been developed in cultivation in various shades of red, pink and purple.  Monarda flowers appear in early summer at the top of stems and bloom continues throughout summer. The flowers are a bit hard to describe but here goes.  There are several layers of sepals, usually colored similar to the flower, then a rounded cluster of buds which begin opening at the top like a wild hairdo.  Flowers are tube shaped, splitting near the top to form one long petal that may have a hook shaped appendage, or sometimes a fork, and one shorter petal.  The plants 2 stamens (male sexual organs) extend past the petals at maturity.

Double flowered varieties of Monarda have been developed but these are not as well liked by bees and hummingbirds.  Some cultivated varieties have a more flattened shape to the flowers, instead of the flowers opening in a cluster at the top they open to the sides.  Monarda flowers must have very tasty and abundant nectar as they are greatly loved by hummingbirds, bees and some butterflies.  When the flowers are pollinated they produce tiny black seeds which small birds such as goldfinches and chickadees really like.

Cultivars of Monarda

'Cambridge Scarlet' with bright scarlet flowers and 'Croftway Pink' with pink flowers are two old but good varieties. 'Snow White' is a harder to find variety with white flowers. (It’s not as attractive to hummingbirds and bees.)

'Marshall's Delight', (Pink) ‘Jacob Cline’, (red), 'Sunset',(red-purple) and 'Violet Queen'( violet) are mildew resistant varieties.  Dwarf varieties include ‘Petite Delight’ (pink), ‘Fireball’ (red), and ‘Pardon My Purple’ (purple).

Dwarf purple monarda

Growing Monarda

Monarda is generally bought as a plant.  A gardener you know may be happy to share some with you as the plants spread rapidly.  Seeds can be started also, but seeds collected from hybrid plants will probably not look the same as the parents.  You can easily start Monarda from cuttings of the stolons in the spring too.  Monarda looks best when several plants are grouped together, but don’t worry if you can only find or afford one.  It will quickly multiply for you.  There are now Monarda varieties in dwarf form that can be grown in containers.

Monarda prefers full sun and flowers best there, with less problems with powdery mildew.  But it will grow in partial shade and even produce some blooms.  Monarda will grow in any type of soil as long as that soil is reasonably moist during the growing season.  Monarda likes ample water.  It rarely needs fertilization and fertilization tends to produce floppy plants.

Deadheading Monarda will help keep plants blooming through summer.  Leave some flowers late in the season to produce seeds for birds.  The dried seed heads can also be used in flower arrangements.  To make plants stockier you can cut the plants in half in late spring.  This will delay flowering but the plants will be shorter when they flower.  Every 3-4 years the Monarda clumps should be dug up in the early spring and separated or you will tend to get dead areas in the center of the clump or toward the back of the area they are growing in.  You can trim Monarda back to the ground after the first hard frost or wait until spring to trim dead stalks back.
 
Bee balm seed head
The worst problem Monarda seems to have is with powdery mildew, which can pop up in warm weather.  Powdery mildew doesn’t generally kill plants but it can make them quit flowering and look very straggly.  It begins with a powdery white look on the lower leaves, which quickly dry up and fall off and this continues up the stem until you have bare stems with a clump of struggling foliage at the top.  If you have problems with powdery mildew there are flower fungicides that can be applied, usually they work best as a preventative and not a cure.  Management can also be used to increase airflow through clumps of the plant.  Trim half of the stems back randomly to about 10 inches throughout the clump.  As those regrow and begin to bloom, trim the other half of the stems you left back.

Medicinal and culinary uses of Monarda

As a member of the mint family the flowers and foliage of Monarda are edible.  The taste is a sharp combination of peppermint and oregano in my opinion.  I don’t find it appealing for salads but you might.  The flowers could be a colorful touch to salad or a plate garnish.  Native Americans used sprigs of the plant to flavor duck and game birds when roasting them.  I have seen recipes where it was used to flavor bread.  Monarda essential oil is used for aromatherapy and in potpourri.

 
Monarda is used for teas, hence the name Oswego tea.  Dried or fresh leaves, and flowers can be used for tea.  It can be sweetened and used as a “pleasure tea” and is said to relieve indigestion and gas pains.  Beware it’s also a diuretic.  Monarda has a high concentration of thymol, which is a good antiseptic.  Cooled tea can be used as a mouthwash for sores in the mouth and sore throats.  It can also be used to wash wounds or as a poultice on skin infections.

Leaves that are removed from the stems and dried for a few days in a warm dark place make the best teas.  Crumble and store in tightly sealed glass or food grade plastic containers.  To make a tea pour boiling water over a couple teaspoons of dried, crumbled leaves in a cup, let seep for 5 minutes and strain leaves off, keeping the fluid.

Here’s a good drink recipe.  Make a cup or 2 of Monarda tea as described above.  Crush a cup of raspberries and strain off the fluid, add the fluid to the strained Monarda tea.  Now add a cup of pineapple juice, sweetened or unsweetened, your choice.   Add ice.  It will make one or two servings.

As usual go easy the first time you consume any Monarda products to test for allergies.  Pregnant women should consult with a doctor before using.  Monarda products placed on skin and exposed to sunlight can increase the risk of sunburn.

Earth teach me to forget myself ~ as melted snow forgets its life.  (UTE Prayer)

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

 © Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.

And So On….

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

Find Michigan garden events/classes here:

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Newsletter/blog information

If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly note if you email me. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want. Contact me at KimWillis151@gmail.com

I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com

The information in this newsletter is copyrighted.  Feel free to share the blog link but if you wish to reprint anything you find on this blog site please ask for permission.  This includes photos with my name on them.




No comments:

Post a Comment