About sesame
Sesame (Sesamum indicum) is one of
the oldest crops grown. It is native to tropical and semi-tropical areas of
Africa and Asia and grows well in arid conditions. Egyptians, Africans, Indians
and people of South East Asia used sesame seeds in a variety of ways, as flour,
a cooking paste or sauce, and as oil. It is probably the first seed crop used
for oil production. Sesame seeds are 55%
oil and the oil is excellent for cooking, cosmetics, medicine, and fueling
lamps.
Ancient oil presses for sesame seeds and DNA from
sesame have been found in archaeological sites from 3, 000 years ago and it is
likely sesame was used well before then.
Sesame was eaten as a pot green when young, the seeds were pressed for
their valuable and highly nutritious oil and the remaining “nut butter” was
either used as a spread on bread much like margarine or it was dried and used
as a flour. Sesame seeds both raw and
toasted found their way into a variety of foods.
In Africa sesame is called benne and slaves brought
“benne cakes” with them to the southern United States. Benne cakes are a type of crisp cookie made
from sesame seeds that are still popular in the south and are used as part of
kwanza celebrations. You can get a
recipe to make benne cakes from Paula Dean at http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/paula-deen/benne-seed-cookies-recipe.html
Thomas Jefferson grew sesame on his plantation and
regarded it highly. He is quoted as
saying “Benne is among the most valuable acquisitions our country has ever
made…. I do not believe before that there exists so perfect a substitute for
olive oil."
It was a struggle however to make sesame a commercial
crop in the United States. It grows only
where there is a long frost free season and dislikes wet weather. Texas grew a
lot of sesame for a while in the early 1900’s but when mechanical harvesting
equipment began to be used widely on crops sesame fell out of favor. Early varieties
of sesame didn’t ripen uniformly and required a lot of hand labor to harvest
and thresh.
While sesame can still be a tricky crop to grow
commercially there are new varieties that have seeds that ripen more evenly and
are less likely to shatter in the field.
They are also more productive than older varieties and grow in a wider
range of conditions. Several southern US
Universities including the University of Missouri are encouraging farmers to
grow sesame as a commercial crop in rotation with other crops. They are developing adaptations to farming
equipment for sowing and harvesting sesame.
Sesame seed is in demand and could be an answer to the
drier conditions many agricultural regions in the US are experiencing. Currently sesame is grown in China, Burma, Africa,
India, and the Middle East. About 20% of
the world’s sesame production is now from the US, about 11,000 tons. Burma is
the top producer of sesame.
What
sesame looks like
Sesame is an annual plant. There are now many varieties
of sesame that are derived from several natural species. Some sesame grows as a straight, narrow
stalk, other varieties are branched. The stalk and branches are closely covered
in dark green, thick, lance shaped leaves.
Sesame develops an extensive root and is slow growing
at first. Once root development is
nearly completed it grows rapidly into a 3-6 foot high plant depending on the
variety and conditions.
Flowers develop from the leaf axils of sesame, one or
more per axil depending on variety. The flowers are tubular, with one bottom
petal protruding as a lip. They dangle on small stems and range from white to
yellow, pale pink or lavender. Bees are greatly attracted to the flowers and
make a nice honey from them.
The sesame flowers turn into long, narrow seed capsules
with several internal divisions and a “lip” on one side. When they ripen they open first at the top
then split along the sides. There can be up to 70 sesame seeds in each capsule. The seeds range in color from nearly white to
black, depending on variety, with the lighter seeds preferred for culinary use.
Sesame likes warm weather and is killed by the first
frost. It has few pests or diseases. It’s a good pollinator attractor and is also
used to attract wildlife such as game birds.
Medicinal
and culinary uses of sesame
Sesame seeds are very nutritious, having as much or
more protein per ounce as meat and are great for vegetarians. They are also
full of vitamins and minerals including iron, magnesium, copper, zinc, Vitamin
E and B6. The oil is equally nutritious
and full of healthy antioxidants. Both
the seeds and oil are described as having a nut-like flavor.
Sesame oil can be pressed from the seeds before or
after roasting, producing a different flavor with each method. Most sesame seed production now goes to
produce oil. The oil is used in many
ethnic sauces and condiments and is used for cooking. Margarine is made from sesame oil in some
places. Sesame is an expensive but very
excellent, healthy oil for frying, salad dressings and other culinary uses.
Chewing the seeds of sesame or swishing sesame oil
through the mouth will help with sore gums and mouth infections. It has an antibacterial action and is known
to kill staph and strep germs.
Sesame oil has long been used on burns and skin
conditions for its soothing and healing qualities. Since it is high in Vitamin E there is
probably a real value. Skin softening
balms and lotions made with sesame oil are used cosmetically. Sesame oil is
rubbed into the skin over aching joints for pain relief. Since the oil is high in copper there may be
some therapeutic value there.
Sesame oil and seeds were an old remedy for diabetes
and a study in 2011 found that the oil improved the action of diabetic drugs
when taken with them. It is probably due to the magnesium in the oil; magnesium
lowers blood glucose levels and may also lower blood pressure- ongoing studies
are testing sesame oil for treatment of high blood pressure.
Sesame oil contains an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
compound known as sesamol, which is being studied in the treatment of
cardiovascular disease. Sesamol also
decreases the damage from radiation poisoning in animals. It may also reduce
the risk of colorectal cancer.
Sesame seeds are high in fiber and are a natural
laxative. They were once prescribed for
constipation so keep that in mind when consuming foods made from them.
Whole sesame seeds are used to top many baked goods or
baked into foods liked benne cakes.
These seeds are generally light colored and have the hulls removed. (Most sesame seeds on McDonald’s buns are
grown in Mexico.) But the seeds are also made into flour, usually after the oil
is pressed out, and baked into various breads and cakes.
A paste of crushed, toasted sesame seeds is called tahini
and is used to make hummus, tempeh, and other dishes. It is also used like peanut butter in many
places as a spread for bread and crackers. The candy halva described earlier is
also made from sesame paste. Oriental
cooking often uses sesame seed paste made from unroasted seeds which has a
different flavor. Many Japanese dishes
are made with sesame oil.
In Africa sesame seeds are used in soup and crushed
seeds are used in seafood dishes. In Mexico sesame is known as Ajonjolí and
used in mole and adobo sauces. Indian and Malaysian cooking uses lots of sesame
seeds and oil, usually mixed with ginger and chili’s.
In the past wine was made from sesame seeds. It flavors some beverages today. The pressed
meal left after commercial oil production is used as a high protein animal feed.
The young leaves of sesame are used for a spring tonic green much like
dandelions.
Caution: There has been an
increased incidence of food allergy to sesame in the last few decades. Use
sesame seeds or oil in small amounts until you see if you are allergic to it.
Growing
sesame in the home garden
While you might not be able to grow a commercial crop
in any zone lower than 8 you can grow sesame for home use in most zones with a
little care. You’ll probably have to
start from seeds since plants are rarely offered. Don’t use seeds from the grocery store- these
are roasted, irradiated, or too old to germinate. Instead buy seeds from a
catalog or shop. Here are a few sources:
Start the seeds indoors about the same time as you
would start tomatoes inside- about 6 weeks before the last frost. Sesame is tricky to transplant so plant your
seeds in peat, paper or other pots you can plant right in the garden, a few
seeds in each pot. Deeper pots are best. Use seed starting medium for best
results. Barely cover the seeds and
press firmly into the soil.
Sesame seed only germinates in warm soil, 70 degrees is
ideal. You may want to use a heating pad
under the pots if the room isn’t warm. Germination
should happen in 10-14 days. The sesame seedlings must be in bright light-
either a greenhouse, south window or under grow lights and kept warm, 70
degrees is preferred, higher temperatures generally don’t hurt. Keep seedlings moist but be careful not to
overwater and get the soil soggy. Growth
will be slow at first but don’t worry.
When the sesame plants have several true leaves you
should thin to 1 plant per pot by cutting off the other plants. If the potting medium doesn’t have fertilizer
mixed into it feed the plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer for flowering
plants, half the recommended strength, once a week.
When the danger of frost has passed and the soil is
warmed to 70 degrees the sesame can be transplanted to a sunny spot in the
garden. Shade the plants for a few days
to get them used to full sunlight. Water
when the soil feels dry or if you notice wilting. The plants will sulk for a
bit after transplanting but should begin growing rapidly after a couple
weeks. Remember that the sesame plants
will get quite tall and may shade smaller plants.
Fertilize with a granular slow release fertilizer mixed
into the soil before transplanting, or use your favorite organic fertilizer in
amounts recommended for tomatoes. Sesame doesn’t require lots of fertilizer if
the soil is moderately fertile. Soil pH
is best at neutral or slightly acidic. Heavy clay soil that holds a lot of
water isn’t recommended.
Plants will bloom about a month- 6 weeks after being
transplanted. It’s normal for the first
flowers to not produce seed pods. When
pods do develop let them dry on the plant until they are dark brown and opening
at the top. Then pick them and place
them in a paper bag in a dry, warm place to finish drying. If you don’t pick
them when they first begin to open you’ll probably lose a lot of seeds. Pods
will ripen over several weeks on the plant but the first frost or really cold
night will stop the process. When the
pods in your bag have split all the way down the side you can shake any
remaining seeds out. Spread the seeds
thinly over a screen and dry for a few more days. Then store your seeds in clean containers
with tight lids.
Sesame has few garden pests or diseases, especially in
the north, but plant it in different location each year. It’s an annual so plants die and should be
removed to the compost pile after the first frost.
Sex
candy Halva, made from sesame
It’s almost Valentine’s Day and I have done articles on
chocolate and roses in previous years, so this year I decided to do something
different. Have you ever heard of halva- otherwise known as sex candy? It’s a fudge-like treat that has been around
thousands of years made from sesame seeds. Halva is thought to have aphrodisiac
qualities and it just may make one’s sex life better because sesame seeds are
high in potassium, zinc, vitamin E and protein, all things that help regulate
reproductive hormones. And because the
mind is a powerful thing offering your love sex candy may just do the trick.
Halva is also sold in stores in areas where there are
many Middle Eastern or Jewish customers.
High end restaurants serving Middle Eastern cuisine may offer halva at
the end of a meal. It is being used in exotic cuisines as a crumbled topping on
meats and vegetables. There are many versions of the candy, most have some sort
of nuts, pistachios and almonds are common, some have dried fruit like dates,
and modern versions are often dipped in chocolate. Peanut butter is mixed into some modern halva
candy too.
A 13th
century Arabic text gives a recipe for making halva (also spelled halvah). Suleiman the Magnificent, an Ottoman Empire
sultan, had a special kitchen built next to his palace to produce some 30
varieties of halva, which he had always available in his harems. Halva was made on various continents, India,
North Africa, Asia and eventually Europe with many variations but all of them
feature sesame seeds. It was a trade
item as well as a special treat prepared in home kitchens.
In America halva made its commercial debut when a young
Jewish man, Nathan Radutzky, began
making it at home and selling it from a pushcart in Brooklyn in 1907. That
small business turned into a big company selling the product now known as Joyva
that still exists today. The company
actually exports halva candy back to Europe and the Middle East. You can buy Joyva bars in health food stores
or specialty shops or on line.
A halva recipe starts with what we know as tahini, or a
paste made from hulled, roasted sesame seeds. Tahini paste has other uses in
cooking too. The paste can often be
found in the baking or spice section of groceries. You can make your own tahini
but that adds an extra layer of work to a halva recipe. Here’s a simple halva recipe.
You’ll need:
2 cups honey, 1½ cups tahini paste, and if desired, up
to 2 cups of sliced or chopped nuts. Toasted sliced almonds, toasted pecans or
chopped walnuts or pistachios are good choices.
Line a loaf pan with parchment paper or aluminum foil
sprayed with pan spray.
Into a medium sized pan pour two cups of honey (Pure
honey, not corn syrup added, cheap honey).
In another pan place 1½ cups tahini paste. Stir it well to combine the oils that often
separate out with the solids.
First put the honey pan on low heat and cook until it
reaches 240 degrees on a candy thermometer or soft ball stage. Remove from
heat.
Heat the tahini pan until the tahini is just warm,
about 120 degrees and thin and smooth. Pour the tahini into the honey, stirring
constantly until it’s smooth and begins to thicken. Stir in your nuts if desired. Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf pan
and refrigerate. Halva should sit at
least 12 hours before slicing for best results and is better a day or so later.
Tightly wrap uneaten halva with plastic wrap and keep refrigerated to store.
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