© Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without
permission.
Hi Gardeners
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| Begonia |
We got up before dawn today to drive to the hospital
for Steve’s cataract surgery. There was
dense fog and drizzle all the way there, another gloomy, wet day. I can’t drive well when it’s dark, add the
weather and it’s a nightmare. But
considering the weather that’s happening around the country- and the world- I
probably shouldn’t complain. I’m imagining our weather in Michigan is much like
the weather in England right now, the famous London fog and gray winters.
The weather has been very unusual here, as it’s been in
most of the country. It seems like a gray March instead of January. I’d like to think climate change will keep it
warm all the rest of winter, but we will be getting colder by the end of the
week. I keep reminding myself that all this may be covered with snow again
soon. That’s the problem with global
warming, it isn’t a steady rise in one area, and it’s up and down, even though
it averages out warmer. One week we are
zone 6 and the next back to 5.
It’s been nice having the hose to the barn run and the
chickens have been able to get outside and forage a bit. So far the deer have left the evergreens
alone, although the squirrels are doing a number on them. (See the article
about red squirrels later in the blog.)
When walking with Gizmo, who doesn’t mind rain and mud,
I keep finding bulbs pushed out of the ground, mostly smaller bulbs like
crocus. The freezing and thawing is
heaving them out of our light soil. I
try to dig holes to replace them but the ground is only thawed a few inches so
it’s difficult. I push soil and leaves
up around them hoping for the best.
Already the snowdrops are sprouting and the crocus close to the
house.
I don’t think anyone in the country can deny that
global warming is happening and our weather is changing. We may not agree on how much of the change is
due to human activity, but we should agree that we should do everything we can
to lessen any contribution to the problem and all that we can do to prepare for
what the changes will do to our country.
Instead of opening closed coal mines and building more
pipelines to carry fracked oil we should be moving to develop wind and solar power,
which do not pollute. We should be
driving smaller, more energy efficient cars and growing more food for ourselves
in a sustainable manner. We should be
eating locally and seasonally. We should
be protecting our water. We must prepare
for violent and unpredictable weather. We
have to move into the future knowing that the earth is changing around us and
we must quickly move from our older, wasteful, and polluting forms of energy
and embrace new technology. That just
might save our species.
Starting
plants from stem cuttings
Plants have an advantage over animals in that most can
reproduce both sexually and asexually.
Asexual reproduction involves suckering by the plant, production of
bulbs, corms and tubers, division of the plant, tissue culture of the plant and
reproducing the plant from pieces of the plant, commonly known as cuttings. Many
plants can be reproduced from stem cuttings, some are reproduced from root
cuttings, and some can be reproduced from a leaf or cuttings of a leaf.
When I taught Master Gardening classes one of the most
liked classes was the class where we discussed plant reproduction and we
actually started a number of plants from cuttings. Gardeners love getting free plants. I kept a lot of house plants in my office
that were butchered for the plant reproduction class each spring and each fall
for a children’s program. There are
probably many, many clones of those plants still growing happily in my area.
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| One of the generous office plants |
Not all plants can be reproduced well from cuttings,
plants with a crown system of growth, think hosta and daylilies, may be
difficult to start this way. They are
generally propagated by division, or tissue culture. Some crown type plants put out aerial stems
with “babies” on them. Spider plants and
“hens and chicks” are examples. Other
plants produce “pups” at the base. Those baby plants can be easily rooted. But a great many plants can be started from
cuttings and it’s a fun way to begin new plants.
The new plant started from a cutting will be exactly
like the parent plant, (with a few odd exceptions) which is one of the
advantages of producing plants through cuttings. Many greenhouses reproduce
hundreds of types of plants from cuttings.
There are several methods of starting cuttings and to
get the best results gardeners need to know what method works best for each
type of plant and if there’s an optimum time in the growth cycle of the plant
to take a cutting. Many references can
provide that information. If you can’t
find information on the plant you are trying to grow, use your best judgement
and give it a try anyway. I’ll mention
some plants that work best with each type of cutting.
In this article I’m discussing stem cuttings; hopefully
I’ll be able to cover other types of asexual reproduction at another time.
Types
of cuttings
Softwood cuttings are taken when the plant is growing
and has leaves. The stems are generally
green and soft, without bark. These are the cuttings generally taken from
houseplants all year round and herbaceous perennials in early spring or fall if
you want to carry certain plants through winter. The best softwood cuttings or stem cuttings
come from growth the plant put out in the last few months.
Plants that start well from softwood are pothos, philodendron,
Wandering Jew,( Tradescantia or Zebrina)
bridal veil, purple passion plant, Setcreasea,
Swedish ivy, hoya, peperomia, petunias,
snapdragons, tomatoes, coleus, cane type begonias, wax begonias, impatiens, geraniums
( Pelargonium), sedum, creeping phlox, chrysanthemum, Cuphea, Dipladenia, fuchsia,
Hedera ivies (Boston ivy and others),heliotrope, poinsettia, plus many more.
If the plant is a hardy perennial or shrub softwood
cuttings are generally easier to start in late spring.
Hardwood cuttings are from woody ornamentals and a few
indoor plants. They are usually taken
from wood about the size of a pencil and they are taken while the plant is
dormant, held in cold storage and rooted just before the parent plant would
break dormancy. These cuttings may have
bark on the stems. Plants to try include willows, junipers, arborvitae, forsythia,
euonymus, camellia, privet, gardenia, citrus, cypress, dogwood, blueberries, weigela,
mockorange, mulberry, and Rose of Sharon.
Semi-hardwood cuttings are an intermediate stage
between a young green steam and an older woody one. They may be from tropical plants which don’t
have a dormant period or taken from plants outside of a dormancy period but
before the stems have heavy bark. Jade
plants are an example, as are roses, grapes, ficus, jasmine, Artemesia,
Buddleia (butterfly bush), lavender, Caryopteris and brugmansia. Willows will
start from semi-woody cuttings, hardwood or softwood. Rosemary can be started
from soft or semi-hardwood cuttings.
Basics
for all cuttings
All cuttings should have at least two nodes on
them. Nodes are points along a stem
where a growth bud is, usually where leaves are found or will grow. Some people
refer to nodes as “joints”. In some
plants there are many nodes close together and in others there are fewer nodes
farther apart. For each cutting there
should be at least two nodes. One will
form the upper part of the new plant or the shoots, and the other will form the
root system. You must be careful not to
damage the nodes when you cut pieces off the parent plant. Longer cuttings with many nodes are not
necessarily better. Cuttings with more
than 4 nodes may not root well.
If cuttings are from the tip of the plant stem, they
are called terminal cuttings. Terminal
cuttings usually grow faster than other stem cuttings. The new growth will come at the end of the
cutting, at the tip and you only need one additional node. If a piece of stem is cut into several
smaller pieces, one piece at the end is the terminal cutting and the other
pieces are just called stem cuttings.
These stem cuttings will produce new growth from the side of the node.
Plant cuttings will root best if the end of the cutting
inserted in the soil or water to form roots is the end which would have been
closest to the main stem of the parent plant (down). This is especially true when making hardwood
cuttings. When making hardwood cuttings
that will be stored for a while it’s a good idea to mark the “bottoms” of the
cuttings with paint or marker above the cut end so you don’t forget which end
is to be inserted into the rooting medium.
When dividing a stem into several pieces for cuttings make
it’s a good idea to leave a small “handle “ of stem above the top node of the
section. This is generally cut on a slant.
Pick up the cutting by the handle so you don’t damage the node which
will become the upper parts of the plant.
Beneath the bottom node of the cutting cut the stem straight across as
close to the node as you can without damaging it. This part will go into the rooting medium.
For rooting all cuttings the medium – or “potting soil”
should be a soilless mixture or milled peat or vermiculite. Don’t use garden soil or compost. Buy a light weight potting mixture for best
results. Some people use clean sand for
rooting cuttings, especially hardwood cuttings.
Some plants will root in water, but cuttings of many
plants will simply rot. If you root them
in water they may have a hard time adjusting to being planted in soil
later. You can keep some plants in water
indefinitely, adding a little fertilizer from time to time. But if you intend for your plants to be
potted in soil it is best to start them in a solid medium to begin with.
Soft
wood cutting care
Softwood cuttings can be rooted at any time. Prepare the cuttings by removing all but one
or two leaves at each above ground node and all the leaves from the nodes that
will be underground. If the plant has
very large leaves cut the leaves in half.
Dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone, which can be purchased
at most garden stores. All plants won’t need rooting medium, but for the more
difficult plants you’ll get better results using it.
Make a hole in the moistened planting medium; do not push
the cutting into the medium because this can damage the node that will make the
roots. Firm the medium around the
cutting. You can bury half the nodes in
the medium and leave half above the “ground”.
Several cuttings can be placed in one container. Most people enclose the container in a
plastic bag or place it under a glass jar to increase the humidity. Make sure
that the cuttings do not touch the sides of any covering as the pieces may rot
at that spot. If the enclosed area gets
extremely wet remove the covering for a few hours. Place these covered containers in bright light
but not in direct sunlight. Most of
these cuttings do best in warm conditions.
Don’t tug at cuttings to see if they have rooted. If several new leaves have developed the root
system probably has too. Carefully dig
up the cuttings and pot them individually, if desired. Fertilize the new plants lightly and move into
the lighting situation the plant requires.
One special note- cuttings of succulents and cacti
should be given a day or two for the cuts to heal and form a callus before
being inserted into rooting medium. I
have found that cuttings of pelargoniums (common geranium) also respond well to
a day or two of drying before they are put in rooting medium.
Semi-
hardwood cuttings care
These cuttings are treated much the same way as
softwood cuttings but they are generally a bit thicker and older than soft
cuttings. Most garden plants propagated
in this manner do best when cuttings are taken in late spring. For some tropical plants the season is not
important.
These cuttings take longer than softwood cuttings to
root. Don’t let the soil get too wet or
they will rot. You may need to
experiment to see if some semi-hardwood cuttings need to be enclosed in glass
or plastic to start well. Many rose
cuttings are started under a jar.
Hardwood
cutting care
Hardwood cuttings are taken after the plants have gone
dormant and they are then stored in a cold- below freezing - dark place for
several months. Hardwood cuttings are
generally 8-12 inches long and should have several nodes. They should be kept
moist- many people store them in a can of damp sand. If the cutting is from an evergreen plant,
remove most of the needles from the upper part of the cutting and all the
needles from the nodes that will be inserted into the rooting medium.
About 6 weeks before the parent plants would normally come
out of dormancy, bring the cuttings into a moderately warm 40-60 degree place
for a week. Prepare moistened planting
medium as for softwood cuttings, make holes in the medium for the cuttings, dip
in rooting hormones and insert. I find
that hardwood cuttings generally need rooting hormone to get started. Keep the
cuttings in a cool – below 70 degree place in indirect light. Do not enclose these cuttings in plastic or
glass but keep the humidity up in the room if possible.
Alternately some people put hardwood cuttings in pots
soon after taking them and store the pots in a cold area – even outside in
trenches- allowing the cuttings to begin to grow when the parent plant does, or
bringing the pots inside earlier and treated as above.
When you see new growth you can carefully transplant
the cuttings into individual containers, fertilize lightly and place gradually
into brighter light. It can take a long
time for some hardwood cuttings to get growing well. I suggest growing them in
containers for one season (to the next spring) before transplanting into the
ground.
Problems
and tips
If you are having trouble getting a plant to root from
a cutting try adding gentle bottom heat.
Seed starting mats or waterproof heating mats on low heat can work. Many professional propagators use a misting
system on cuttings. I find that starting
cuttings outside in a protected area in early spring works well because misty,
drizzly weather is common here in spring.
If a cold spell comes move the cuttings inside. Make sure heavy rain storms don’t beat the
cuttings down or flood containers.
If you are having trouble propagating a certain type of
plant try taking cuttings at a different time of the year, or using softwood
instead of hardwood or vice versa. Some
plants can just be very difficult to start from cuttings.
If the cutting doesn’t put out any new growth after a
few weeks, or the bottom of the stem blackens, shrivels or turns mushy it isn’t
“taking”. Discard those and start over. Some wilting of leaves left on cuttings is
normal, sometimes the leaves even fall off but the stem will remain firm and
green and new leaves should grow if the cutting is “taking.”
Not all plants start well from cuttings, but it doesn’t
hurt to try. Most plants are not hurt from trimming off pieces for cuttings and
it even stimulates some plants to grow better.
Start several cuttings if you can.
If you get all of them to grow you can share them with your friends.
Herbs for lice
If you have kids in school you have probably had an
infestation of head lice or at least a scare concerning them. Lice can come home in even the cleanest hair-
in fact they actually prefer clean hair.
With a long cold winter involving lots of hats, scarves and hoods often
being shared among kids, lice can pop up anywhere. Usually the cure for head lice involves some
very toxic chemicals and a lot of hand “grooming.” Less toxic, safer alternatives do exist for
lice treatment however.
I ran across an interesting study that proved that
mango, rosemary and tea tree oil repel human head lice. In the study the oils of these plants were
mixed with carrier oil such as olive oil, either separately or in combination,
and combed through the hair. Subjects
with treated hair were far less likely to acquire head lice when exposed to
them than people whose hair was not treated.
Now these oils did not kill existing lice, but kept them away. This study also stated that research had
proved that any type of hair conditioner would remove lice nits (eggs) attached
to hair shafts just as effectively as commercial nit removing products.
Further reading led me to some interesting herbal
remedies for head lice. (Warning- before
using any herbal mixture on a person’s head put a small amount on some exposed
skin to test for an allergic reaction.
And keep all herbal products out of the eyes.) There is a patent for a
head louse repellant/ insecticide that contains essential oils of anise, tea
tree and lemon with research to prove it’s effective. In other studies these essential oils were
also considered to have effective repellant or insecticidal properties: tea
tree, anise, lavender, rosemary, neem, clove, geranium, lemon, eucalyptus,
peppermint, clove, thyme and nutmeg. The
first 4 are the most effective.
A study done at Harvard found that plain olive oil
worked into hair and left overnight under a shower cap was a fairly effective
way to kill lice. They found that olive
oil was the best carrier oil if you wished to try mixing up a repellant/louse
killer with essential oils yourself. The
common mixing ratio is 2 ounces of olive oil to 10 drops of essential oil. After you kill adult lice the eggs or nits
must be combed of the hair shafts they are stuck to. Add some essential oil to any hair conditioner
and work it through the hair. Then comb
with a fine tooth comb.
Herbalists suggest adding 10 drops of essential oil to
your favorite shampoo and conditioner bottle and mixing well to use as a louse
preventative. Adding a few drops of tea
tree, lavender or rosemary essential oil to a hairbrush before brushing yours
or your child’s hair may also help. Washing clothing and bedclothes with hot
water, soap and with some essential oils added is suggested if there is a louse
outbreak. You can mix essential oil with
some rubbing alcohol and put it in a spray bottle to use to spray items that
can’t be washed.
Herbal products for lice are on the market but experts
warn these are unregulated and vary tremendously in effectiveness. A heat treatment for lice done in a salon
setting is also available in some places.
Now after reading this your head is probably itching and you are ready
to look through your essential oils to see what you have!
Red Squirrel Damage to trees
If you live in the north and are noticing lots of
branch tips on the ground beneath cedars (arborvitae) and spruce you probably
have red squirrels around. Red squirrels
are not the typical suburban squirrel; those are fox or gray squirrels. They sometimes appear in wooded suburbs but
generally they are rural residents. Red
squirrels are native squirrels to northern woods and there are 22 sub species.
Red squirrels are tiny things, with reddish coats with
a solid white belly, tufted ears and white eye rings. They are aggressive even if small. They will eat anything; one of their favorite
foods is mushrooms and they will actually eat baby rabbits, baby birds and the
young of other squirrels. They
aggressively and noisily defend territories, even from humans, who are
occasionally attacked by them. When you
have red squirrels you rarely see other types of squirrels because the red
squirrels drive them off.
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| Red squirrel |
Red squirrels do a lot of damage to trees. The arborvitae have small cones with seeds in
them at the tips of branches. The
squirrels cut off the branch tip, eat the seeds and discard the rest. They eat the buds of spruce and some other
trees discarding part of the branch tip when done. They also eat the flower buds of fruit and
other trees later in spring. The eating
of buds and branch tips can weaken trees and disfigure them.
Red squirrels dig up and eat flower bulbs and will eat
plants on porches and decks. The ones
around here seem to be very fond of geraniums.
They will eat them down to the soil line. For a few years I had them coming inside my
enclosed porch in winter to eat the potted geraniums I was trying to over
winter there. I would see them doing it,
but was unable to catch them. They get
into vegetable gardens and fruit trees.
They raid chicken feeders, bird feeders and pet dishes.
Red squirrels are more likely to enter homes through
holes chewed in soffits and attics, even crawl spaces under homes, than other
squirrels. Inside they also do
considerable damage. For a while we had
a terrible time with red squirrels in our attic. We even had them coming into the main part of
the house from the attic, but our dogs quickly eliminated those intruders.
So
what can you do about red squirrels?
They are part of the natural ecology and I always
advocate leaving them alone when they stay in the woods. But most of us can’t tolerate damage to the
home and our cultivated plants without wanting to defend ourselves. These buggers are very hard to deal
with. Things like scented soap, red
pepper, commercial pest sprays and so on really don’t work on them. Rat poison doesn’t seem to work on them and I
don’t recommend putting poison outside where other critters could get it. Poisoned squirrels will also poison birds of
prey and other things that might feed on them.
Red squirrels are hard to trap and very dangerous when
live trapped. You’ll need to release
them miles away if you don’t want to kill them after trapping them. An acquaintance tells me of taking a red
squirrel to release it and as he let it out of the trap it latched onto his
hand and severely bit him. He had to
shake it off and then it ran back at him.
Use rat traps inside the house to kill them. Ultrasonic devices don’t work.
I have heard people say to feed them to prevent the
damage, but like with any pest animals, that usually causes more harm than
good. Don’t feed them. Red squirrels
rarely become tame like other squirrels, even for food. Feeding red squirrels
is like feeding rats, you’ll just get more. Protect bird feeders if you can with baffles
and feed pets inside. Discourage them
from hanging around. Fix all holes in
houses and out buildings as soon as they make them.
Encourage natural predators like hawks and owls to get
them. Put up owl nest boxes. Fake owls help for a short time, until they
realize they are fake. Tall perches near squirrel frequented areas encourage
hawks. Coyotes also eat them, but you probably don’t want to encourage coyotes
near your home.
I have found that cats are a good predator of red
squirrels. Our cats have finally reduced
the population of red squirrels to a manageable size. The squirrels often foolishly attack them,
only to become dinner. All cats won’t
kill squirrels; you need the right kind of barn cats to tackle them. Dogs will kill them too, but often can’t get
to them.
Red squirrels are not an endangered species. You’ll probably at the most just be able to
reduce the population around your home, not eliminate it. A 22 or shot gun does a good job on them. Be
careful about weapon laws in your area.
Game laws generally allow nuisance animals to be shot. They say people hunt them for meat - but with
9 types of tapeworms and 25 types of fleas to name some parasites that frequent
them, I wouldn’t want to eat one. That’s
another reason not to tolerate them in the house either.
Why
not removing pest species may make things worse for everyone
I love animals and we keep a portion of our property
“natural” and do many things to encourage wildlife. However I never feel guilty about defending
my “territory” (home) and food supply and neither should you. That is just as
natural as the red squirrel defending his.
I wouldn’t have killed the squirrels because they ate my geraniums, but
I do kill them when they start chewing their way into my house. And I don’t mind the cats killing them
because then I don’t have to, even though cats cause their own controversy.
The white tail deer is a prime example of how people
protect one species to the detriment of other less visible but equally important
species. I just saw another story on the
news where a community was up in arms over a planned cull to a huge population
of deer. While they are saving Bambi many other living things such as
understory trees and shrubs, endangered wildflowers and birds are being lost in
the area. When deer aren’t limited to
reasonable numbers for the area by predators, they destroy many native species
of plants by over grazing. When deer
eliminate those plant species from the environment, other less noticeable or
less “cute” animal species are also affected; birds, reptiles, amphibians, and
small mammals.
There is also damage to humans if their car or motorcycle
hits Bambi. The over population of deer
also leads to smaller, less healthy deer prone to outbreaks of disease. We need to stop judging the value of a
species by how cute or graceful they are.
We need to think of the big picture.
If we don’t allow hunting or we don’t want large predators in the area,
we need to correct for our interference in nature by occasionally culling those
deer and not feeling guilty about it.
Here’s a really simplified example of how using reason
can change how you feel about killing an animal that eats your food or damages
your home. Let’s say squirrels eat all your tomatoes. You know they are doing it but you just can’t
kill them and don’t want someone else to kill them because they’re so cute. You don’t really have to have tomatoes but
you probably won’t go without tomatoes the rest of the year. Instead you’ll buy them from someone
else. That someone could be a local
organic farmer. Good choice, and then
your decision not to kill squirrels may be just fine.
But more than likely most people will be buying tomatoes
from a grocery who bought those tomatoes from a large farm, who grew them using
pesticides that kill bees and other animals, fertilizers that pollute water and
may even have harvested them using slave labor.
(That sounds outdated, but tomatoes ( and strawberries) are a crop that
is often harvested by people being held against their will and that crop
accounts for a major share of cases involving human rights violations in
agriculture.)
You need to weigh the decision to get rid of an animal
carefully against what not getting rid of it could do. Little things can add up to big differences
in the whole web of life. I would rather
kill a raccoon that keeps killing my laying hens than buy factory farmed
eggs. I would try to exclude the raccoon
first but if that wasn’t working I’d kill the coon and I have. Maybe I could
buy my eggs from another person who raises the hens in a way I approve of, but
chances are they are having the same type of problem I am. It comes with the
territory. I wouldn’t try to kill all
the coons in my woods just the coon or coons that were after my source of eggs.
We need to live sustainably and in cooperation with
other species, taking only what we need and not destroying nature
needlessly. We need to always be
thinking about how our choices affect the greater good, and we should make
those choices with our heads, not our emotions. There are times when killing even a single
animal would be a bad choice. And
sometimes the better choice is to kill or remove an animal from your
environment.
We may not have the right to shave the top off a
mountain to mine coal but we do have the right – maybe the responsibility – to
protect our homes and food. Share the harvest, if you want, with the other
critters that occupy your environment. (Like it or not, you will be sharing.) Share
your territory if sharing doesn’t harm you. But you don’t have to give up the entire
harvest or your home to other animals out of guilt.
Making Beer Batter Sweet Potato Fries
You may have had sweet potato fries in a restaurant but
you can make them at home too. Sweet Potato fries take more work than making
fries from white potatoes but they are a bit more nutritious. Not really wonderful for a diet but very
tasty. You can find them frozen now in stores but why not make your own? Try this beer batter recipe for some really
great eating.
Ingredients
4 medium sweet potatoes, boiled, peeled and cut into
strips (boil them until they are just getting soft.) You can also microwave them.
¼ cup honey
2¼ cups beer, a mild flavored beer is best
1tsp. grated lemon peel
1/8 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
1/8 tsp. garlic powder
2 cups flour
Oil for deep frying (not soy), peanut oil is great
Directions
For the batter blend 1/4 cup beer with the honey and
lemon peel in a large zip close bag or use a covered bowl. Add the sweet potato slices and marinate in
the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Now mix together the flour, salt, pepper, garlic, and
remaining beer in a large bowl. Blend
until smooth.
Heat the frying oil to 390 degrees F. (195 C) in a deep
fryer or deep pan.
Using tongs take a strip of potato from the bag and dip
it in the flour- beer mixture. Place the batter coated strips in the hot oil
immediately.
Only fry a few pieces at a time, making sure not to
crowd them in the fryer, until golden brown. Lift the fried potatoes out of the
fryer with tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel covered
plate. Serve hot.
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
And
So On….
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