February, 23, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim Willis
Its beautiful outside today but this weather is crazy. In case you aren’t aware (every TV station is leading with the weather) those of us in Michigan are set to get a big winter storm tomorrow into Thursday, maybe a blizzard. I am hoping it dives south or goes north, but that doesn’t seem likely. Its nice today- I have snowdrops blooming- but if you need food, fuel, medicine or other supplies get them today.
Inside my plants are starting to wake from slumber. There is new growth on many plants. I have a Christmas cactus still in bloom, geraniums, hibiscus, kalanchoe, abutilon and peace lily in bloom inside. I brought a red penta inside this winter and its getting ready to bloom. This weekend I transplanted some cleome plants that were a foot high out of a large pot of kalanchoe that had been outside last summer and was the recipient of seeds. They are looking a bit droopy but I think they will perk up. Whether they will bloom inside I don’t know.
I was outside this weekend pruning apple trees and I am still sore. The grass isn’t quite as green after this last snow melted off but my bamboo is still green, its usually straw brown by now. Chickweed was growing; I collected some for my canaries. I spent a lot of time wandering around, daydreaming about what I was going to do to the garden this spring and getting really mad at the deer damage. There will be electric fencing around my shrubs next winter.
We were without power for a few hours Friday evening and I know some of you were without power for days. That was just wind, without heavy snow. As the weather gets more extreme all of us need to think about how to handle power outages and other emergencies.
Emergency preparedness- garden style
With another winter storm blowing in its time to spend a few moments thinking about what happens to your plants should you lose power and /or heat. Many people have greenhouses in production or new plants started inside now which adds an additional layer of concern. While your plants may not be your biggest concern in an emergency you should have some plans in place to keep them as healthy as possible.
Before the storm hits make sure you have fuel for propane or kerosene heaters in greenhouses. If you use electric heat do you have a generator you can put into use? You’ll need gas and oil for that. If you have a lot of plants in a greenhouse and use electricity to heat it you may want to have a backup heat source. Remember some furnaces and heaters require electricity to start even if they run on propane or other fuel.
Plants don’t suffer from CO2 poisoning but people do. Use caution entering greenhouses that have been heated with propane or kerosene heaters. You can’t smell CO2 and it can be deadly in a short time. You may want to bring a CO2 detector in with you and leave if it goes off. Watch also for pets that may seek a warm place and be killed.
If you use a well for water do you have backup power that runs the pump? If not, then store water for use not only for yourself and pets but for your plants too. Check to see if plants need water before the power goes out, but if the power is out for a few days you may need additional water.
If the power in your greenhouse goes out and you won’t have a backup power system make sure you have some spun row cover, old sheets or blankets you can use to cover plants. Plastic tarps and sheets can be used, but fabric is less likely to damage the plants. If the power goes out and it’s sunny you may not need to do anything. At night or in cloudy weather the temperature may drop quickly. If the temperature starts dropping immediately cover your plants to help conserve heat. You may want to use pots, stakes or other items in or between the flats or pots to hold the covering off the plants and keep them from smashing the tiny plants.
If you can arrange it you may want to cover the whole greenhouse with an additional layer of material. There’s a decision to be made as to whether the sun will be able to warm the greenhouse and you won’t want anything to obstruct the sun or if there isn’t much sun in the forecast whether an additional heavy tarp or other covering will help hold heat in.
Plastic covered greenhouses that receive heavy snow loads may collapse or rip. You may want to use a push broom to brush snow off several times during a storm. Wind may also damage greenhouses. Check all your ties or clips before the storm. You may want to add weight to the bottom of small greenhouses so they aren’t blown over.
Plants inside may fare better if you are keeping the house warm in some way during a power outage. Move houseplants and any seedlings to the warmest area of the house. Don’t worry about light for a few days. If you have no way to heat the house and the temperature gets close to 40 degrees move your plants to a small interior room or closet. Inside a shower stall might work. In addition you can enclose small plants or flats in plastic bags and drape coverings over larger plants and then place them in an enclosed space.
If there is some sun shining through a south window move the plants there in the daytime and let the sun heat the soil. You could use some plastic pop or other bottles filled with water and covered with a dark sock or other dark material to collect and store heat. Sit them among and around the plants. They will release heat after the sun goes down. You may need to fill the bottles with water before the power goes out.
You may want to bring in a garden cart or wheelbarrow to move the plants around your home easily, from sunny daytime window to closet at night. If you have very large potted plants you may need a hand truck to move them. If you can’t move them you may want to cover them at night.
Plants can usually survive temperatures just above freezing for a few days, although some are more temperature sensitive than others. If you can keep them at 50 degrees most will survive. When it’s very cold don’t water the plants unless they look wilted and the soil feels dry. Some seedlings and tender plants may be stunted a bit from a few days of cold but will probably recover. Dampening off may become prevalent in seedlings exposed to cold and you may have to discard those seedlings and start more.
Those of you with expensive orchid or other types of collections should consider whether there is a friend or even a school or commercial greenhouse nearby that could help out if you lose power and don’t have back-up heat, providing you could get the plants there.
Small plants in the garden, even bulbs that have sprouted quite a bit, probably won’t be harmed by snow or even ice. You could use pots or buckets inverted over them to protect them if you are worried but be sure to remove them right after the storm. The snow may actually protect many plants.
Evergreens may become loaded with heavy snow and be bent or splayed out. Carefully remove the snow- you can break the branches easily. If the branches are ice covered there is not much you can do. Leave the shrubs or trees alone or you may do worse damage. And be careful that larger limbs don’t drop on you. After snow or ice is gone you may have to prop or tie up some plants to help them regain their shape.
If tree limbs break trim the broken area off to leave a clean cut. You don’t need tree paint on the stumps. Be very careful working around large trees after a bad storm. You can easily be killed or seriously injured by falling branches. Dangling branches can fall in unexpected ways if you tug at them and one branch falling can start a cascade.
Indoor Cyclamen Care
Many gardeners long for spring blooms and merchandizers know it. You’ll find a variety of blooming plants for sale in stores in late spring and you may be tempted to exercise your green thumb on them. Some of the pretty plants on sale include cyclamen.
Cyclamen persicum is the cyclamen species used to provide indoor gift plants. It has been hybridized with some other cyclamen species and selected for a variety of flower and leaf colors, including some double flower forms and miniature types. This cyclamen is not hardy outside, although there are hardy cyclamen.
Indoor cyclamens are manipulated into blooming through much of the fall, winter and spring months to provide gift plants. Often the forcing treatment makes it hard to get them to bloom again and the easiest thing may be to enjoy them and then dispose of them. For gardeners who can’t bear to do this you can try to rest the plants and then bring them into bloom again.
The cyclamen has oval to round leaves produced on long stalks coming out of a tuber just underground. The leaves are often attractively marked with silver patterns although some plants may have all green leaves and some have almost completely silver leaves.
Cyclamen flowers are produced in groups of 3-10. Each flower has 5 petals united at the base with the tips flaring backward, commonly described as shooting star shape. They come in shades of pink, lavender and white. The plants produce flowers for a long period if conditions are favorable
While they are blooming keep them in the coolest spot you have that has good light. Cyclamen prefer to be at 65 degrees or below, but not below freezing. Do not put them in a south or west window. Let the soil in the pot dry slightly before watering again. In a cool place the cyclamen can bloom for weeks. Eventually, however the blooms will fade.
The leaves should be allowed to grow until they start to turn yellow and fade. Then stop watering the pot and when the leaves are dead, place the pot in a paper bag and store it in a dark place at room temperature.
After at least 12 weeks, or when conditions are again cool, bring the pot out into bright light and water it. After flower stalks begin appearing fertilize with a little house plant fertilizer and water when the soil dries out. Cross your green thumbs and hope for the best.
Tips for choosing fruit trees
In the spring gardeners are often looking at gardening catalogs or stalking the aisles of nurseries looking for fruit trees. The selection is often vast- especially in catalogs so how do you choose the fruit trees right for your landscape? There are many decisions to be made so here’s a quick guide to help you choose. This article is about non-citrus or tropical fruits.
First before buying any fruit trees make sure you have a suitable spot for them. All fruit trees require a full sun position in well-drained soil. You can amend soil that is low in nutrients but fruit trees will not grow where the soil stays wet for long periods of time.
Second decide on how much room you can devote to fruit trees. You can grow fruit in the front yard or close to the house but there is some mess involved with fruit production, and fruit trees pruned for good production are not as ornamental as other trees. But it’s a good idea not to have the trees too far from the house in rural and suburban areas where deer and other animals are a problem. You will be better able to protect the trees and their crops if they are away from the edges of woods and close to your home.
Each standard sized fruit tree will need 25 feet between it and the next tree in all directions. Each semi-dwarf tree will need 10-15 feet of space in all directions, depending on variety and species. True dwarf trees can be espaliered against a fence or planted as closely as 5-8 feet apart. Some dwarf fruit trees can be grown in tubs but in northern areas these can pose a problem in winters. To keep the roots from being killed the tubs may need to be buried in the winter or moved to another location where temperatures are cool enough to satisfy dormancy requirements (about 40 F) but not cold enough to kill the root system in an above ground pot.
Next you need to decide what species of fruit you can grow in your planting zone. Find your planting zone here. Most apples and many pears and cherries will grow in planting zones 4-7. Peaches, nectarines, apricots and plums are a little less hardy. Some will grow in planting zones 5, a few even in 4, but most do best in zones 6-8. Of course northern gardeners (zones lower than 8) will not be able to grow citrus in the ground. And those in planting zones 8 and above have to search for apples and other fruits that have a low dormancy or chilling requirement. Some fruit varieties will not set fruit if the winter temperatures are too warm. Once you have become interested in a certain fruit variety make sure to check the zone hardiness which should be given in the catalog description or on the plant tag.
Pollination requirements are another factor you need to consider when choosing fruit trees. Apples, pears, sweet cherries, and some plums and one or two varieties of peaches or apricots need two trees of different varieties nearby to make fruit. Sour or pie cherries, and most peaches, nectarines and apricots will self- pollinate- you don’t need two trees. This pollination requirement may figure in when you have limited space to grow fruit trees. Nearby usually means within 500 feet. If a neighbor has a similar fruit tree you may not need two of that kind. For apple pollination some ornamental crabapples or wild trees growing along roadsides can provide pollination. (The fruit will not be affected by this cross pollination.)
Two trees of the same variety of apples,pears, sweet cherries, and plums or even closely related varieties will not pollinate each other. That means you should not plant two McIntosh apples if there are no other apple tree varieties nearby. Read catalog descriptions to get an idea of what tree varieties will pollinate each other. As a tip Golden Delicious apples are good pollinators for almost all apple varieties. Gala and Red Delicious pollinate each other, Red Delicious and McIntosh are also compatible, HoneyCrisp and CandyCrisp can be pollinated by Jonathan or Gala apples.
Bartlett pears are good pollinators for most other pears. Any two different pears will generally pollinate each other. European type plums like Damson and prune plums do not need another pollinator but Japanese type plums do. Pie type cherries are generally self- pollinating and one variety of sweet cherry called Stella is also self- pollinating. Sweet cherries can also be pollinated by tart cherries; you may want one of each. Pawpaws need two varieties to set fruit. Persimmons are self-pollinating.
You don’t need two trees of the same size for pollination- if you don’t have room for 2 semi-dwarf apple trees for instance- you could plant a dwarf variety and a semi-dwarf. Or for apples, maybe you could plant a small ornamental crabapple in another location in the landscape.
Should you buy your fruit tree potted or bare root? Potted trees are generally found at local nurseries. These may be large and attractive looking if they have been well cared for, but the selection of varieties will be small. Buying bare root fruit trees by mail or on line will allow you to choose from a wide selection of trees, including heirloom types. Bare root trees will catch up quickly to potted trees if they are planted soon after they arrive and are well cared for. They may even be healthier than potted trees that have sat around for a while. Even pretty good sized dormant trees can be sent bare root by mail.
The size of the tree and the age of the tree will determine how soon you get fruit. Size means both whether the tree is dwarf, semi-dwarf or standard in height when it is mature and what size it is when you buy it. Most people will find semi-dwarf trees are the easiest to care for and they bear quicker than standard size trees. Some types of semi-dwarf fruit trees will get 20 feet high, but they can be pruned to remain lower. Standard trees may get 40 feet in height in old age. Peaches, nectarines and apricots tend to be smaller trees even if standard size is selected. Dwarf trees usually remain below 10 feet in height. Except in very restrained space conditions it’s generally better to select semi-dwarf trees. Dwarf trees bear small crops and they often have trouble supporting those crops. They tend to break under wind and snow loads more easily.
If you want fruit quickly, buy the largest size fruit trees you can. Some places sell trees by trunk diameter, others by their height. But larger size generally means the tree is older and will start bearing fruit earlier. Larger sized and older trees cost a little more, but since fruit trees take from 3-5 years to even begin bearing fruit, sometimes longer for standard trees, buying trees that are 2-3 years old or more will get production going faster. Some places sell “selected” fruit trees. These are usually large and well branched for their age. They may make your wait for fruit shorter if you can afford them.
Beware of people advertising seeds or seedling fruit trees. Fruit trees are almost always propagated from cuttings grafted on to root stock. Seeds of most fruit trees do not come true and will not bear the same type of fruit the parents had. It’s impossible to tell what kind of fruit a seedling will have until it starts producing and by then a lot of time has gone by. Don’t go to the store and buy apples (or other fruits) and save the seed to plant. You’ll get trees but the type of fruit you get will vary considerably and probably won’t be very good. Don’t buy seeds or seedlings unless you have lots of time and enjoy surprises.
If you want to grow your fruit trees with minimal spraying of pesticides look for varieties that say they are disease resistant. Most of these are newer varieties and there are more apple varieties in this category than other fruits. Keep in mind that they are disease resistant, not disease free. Almost all fruit trees can be managed organically but how the fruit looks and how big your harvest is can vary by your management techniques. It helps to start with disease resistant trees.
The variety or “flavor” of a fruit type is a personal choice based on your taste and needs as long as it’s suitable for your space and climate. Read up on what uses the variety is good for, like fresh eating or canning. You may want to purchase different types of fruit and do a taste test, keeping in mind that fresh off the tree fruit will probably taste better. You may want to ask other gardeners what they like and what grows well in your area. This may be the hardest decision you’ll make because there are hundreds of varieties of common fruits.
The difference between ground ivy, purple deadnettle and hensbit
Some of the first green weeds to pop up in spring belong to two different families and are often confused. While it’s not of earth shaking importance you may want to know how to identify the difference between these sprawling goundcovers, ground ivy, (Glechoma hederacea) and one of the Lamiums, either deadnettle, (Lamium purpureum), hensbit, (Lamium amplexicaule), or Spotted deadnettle, (Lamium maculatum). These plants have similar looking leaves, flowers and growth habits.
Ground ivy has one very good distinguishing feature; it smells like mint when it’s cut or bruised. The plant crawls on the ground, and has green rounded to heart shaped leaves with a scalloped edge and prominent veins. Each leaf has a short stem, and they are joined in pairs opposite each other on the stem. The stems are square, and can be smooth or have short white hairs on them that point backward.
The flowers of ground ivy appear in the leaf joints at the end of stems in early spring and continue until warm weather. Flowering stems are shorter and more upright than other stems. The flowers are purplish blue and tubular with a flare of 2 lobes on the upper lip and 3 on the bottom. Some of the flowers do produce tiny tan seeds but the plant spreads more by rooting its stems than by seed.
Each joint of the ground ivy stem may root where it touches ground. In a season they can cover an amazing amount of space. The plants are also called creeping Charlie, gill over the ground or field balm. Ground Ivy likes damp, shady areas but can spread into full sun areas. It is a perennial plant and when covered with snow will remain green all winter. It is a frequent “weed” in lawns and gardens.
Ground Ivy is native to Eurasia where it has many uses and was probably brought here as an herbal remedy. Because it is high in Vitamin C it was used as a spring tonic, usually made into a pleasant tasting tea. The tea was said to be a cure for lead poisoning, common among painters in England. It was also used to brew beer, especially in France.
The lamiums come in 3 common species. Hensbit (L. amplexicaule) has leaves that may look similar to ground ivy, but on close inspection it can be seen that the leaves don’t have a stem and look like they encircle the square stem. Young leaves have fine white hairs on the surface. The stems of hensbit are reddish purple and are more upright than ground ivy. There is no mint smell when the foliage is broken.
The flowers of hensbit are tubular and lipped similar to ground ivy flowers. They appear in whorls on the end of stems between the leaf layers. They are a bit larger and showier than ground ivy flowers and range in color from pale pink to purple. Heaviest flowering is in early spring, but cool periods, especially in late summer will bring more blooming. These flowers will produce numerous seeds.
Hensbit is an annual and while the stems may root, it spreads by seed. Seedlings may come up at any time its mild and some survive the winter as seedlings to bloom in spring. It likes sunnier areas than ground ivy but can grow in partial shade.
Hensbit’s close relative is purple deadnettle, (L. purpureum). Purple deadnettle has leaves that are more pointed than hensbit and the upper leaves on a stem have short stems. Leaves further down the stems may appear to circle the stem much like hensbit. Leaves and stems have white hairs but the hairs do not cause itching like other nettles. The end of each stem is packed with a whorl of leaves that have a reddish purple color, which gives purple deadnettle its name. The stems are also reddish.
Purple deadnettle flowers are smaller, lighter in color and more hidden under the leaves than hensbit. They are shaped like hensbit flowers. This plant is also an annual that spreads by seed. It can look quite showy in the lawn or garden in cool times of the year. It likes sunny areas.
Purple deadnettle and hensbit are both native to Eurasia. They are considered edible and are eaten in spring salads. Both of these plants are important sources of nectar and pollen for bees in the spring. They should be tolerated in wilder areas. But you may want to prevent large patches from forming where animals like cattle and sheep may graze as they can cause a condition called staggers.
The other lamium one may encounter in a garden or lawn is actually cultivated as a ground cover but sometimes escapes. Spotted deadnettle, (L. maculatum) is much like purple deadnettle, but the leaves are attractively spotted with white. You may know it as White Nancy. Several color variations exist, some more golden leaved, some silvery leaved as well as the spotted variation. Numerous varieties are on the market. These plants are perennial and make good ground covers in partially shaded areas. They flower sporadically through the summer. They spread by runners, but can become invasive. They too, are native to Eurasia.
|A variety of spotted deadnettle|
Eat prunes –they’re good for you
If you have to have radiation treatments, are traveling in space or work with radiation it might be wise to include prunes in your diet. A collaborative study done by NASA's Ames Research Center, the department of radiation oncology at the University of California-Irvine and the division of endocrinology at the University of California-San Francisco, found that consuming prunes (dried plums) daily helped prevent bone loss and changes to bone marrow caused by radiation.
In 2011 researchers from Florida State and Oklahoma State University found that eating prunes also helped prevent osteoporosis in menopausal women. Women who ate prunes frequently had denser bones and fewer fractures.
And prunes are good for digestive health too. Researchers from Texas A&M University and the University of North Carolina found that prunes promoted good gut bacteria and reduced colon cancer rates. So your grandma was right, prunes are good for you.
Natural treatment for Varroa destructor mites in bees
Beekeepers in Europe have been using oxalic acid, a product of many plants, including rhubarb and spinach, to kill mites that have been weakening honeybees and contributing to their decline. Research published in the Journal of Apicultural Research found that oxalic acid vaporized into hives during the winter was very successful in riding the bees of mites without harming them. Spraying inside the hives with an oxalic acid solution was also effective.
Now this is just speculation but I wonder if planting rhubarb near hives and letting it flower, which it does in a very pretty manner, could help kill the mites by bees ingesting rhubarb nectar and pollen. Or maybe making a tea using rhubarb stems and leaves to use in the hives during winter would work. You can purchase oxalic acid crystals but if homemade would work it would be great.
Batten the hatches but remember its only 26 days to spring
“He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners. These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.
I have these seeds that I collected from my garden that I am willing to share free. Look at the list and if you would like some contact me at email@example.com
I will tell you where to send a stamped self-addressed envelope for the seeds. If you want popcorn or black walnuts it will take several stamps. I have published this list on the seed swap sites also. I’ll try to give everyone who asks some until they are gone.
Lilies, a seed mixture of assorted hybrids, oriental- Asiatic- trumpet- Casa Blanca, Stargazer, La Reve, purple tree, yellow tree, Silk Road, more
Morning glory – common purple
Scarlet runner bean - few
Japanese hull-less popcorn
Hosta asst.of seed from numerous varieties- lots
Ligularia desmonda (daisy–like flower)
Ligularia rocket – spires of flowers
Foxglove Dalmation peach
Columbine mixed- small amount
Nicotiana small bedding type- mixed colors
Nicotiana sylvestris (woodland tobacco, Only the Lonely)
Kangaroo Paws orange
Black walnut- few hulled nuts
An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact Julie Schröder, LAHS Secretary, 810-728-2269 - Julie.Schroder@brose.com
Smart Vegetable Gardening Series - Thursday, March 3, 2016 to Friday, March 4, 2016, 5:00pm. DeVos Place - 3rd Floor, Grand Gallery Overlook Rooms F & G, 303 Monroe Ave NW., Grand Rapids, MI.
Want to start growing vegetables, but not sure where to start? Or are you already growing, but want to increase your yield? The Michigan State University Extension’s Smart Gardening team is here to help! With experts in every facet of the veggie growing process, the Smart Vegetable Gardening Series can teach you everything you need to know to make your vegetable garden a success! Plan now to attend one or all 4 sessions.
Cost: $20 per session or $60 for the entire series! Registration includes a Weekend Pass to the Show! https://secure.interactiveticketing.com/1.10/e4fbce/#/select
Spring Beauties: Native Wildflowers for the Woodland Garden Friday, February 26, 2016 Meadow Brook Hall, 480 South Adams Road, Rochester MI
Coffee and refreshments will be served at 9:15 a.m. with program to follow at 10:00 a.m. Featuring guest speaker Cheryl English, Professional Gardener, Designer, Author, and Educator. Cheryl will discuss many Michigan native plants from Trout Lilies to Trillium, from the exotic to the familiar, and explore some native alternatives for the spring garden. Guests are welcome.
Meadow Brook Garden Club. There is a $5 non-member donation.
Reservations are not required. For more information, contact 248-364-6210, or MBHGCMembers@gmail.com or visit
2016 Michigan Horticultural Therapy Conference: "Horticultural Therapy: Connecting People & Plants" Friday, March 11, 2016 from 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.- Michigan State University: Plant & Soil Sciences Building, East Lansing, Mi
The MHTA conference is beneficial to anyone interested in learning how the people-plant interaction brings therapeutic change and improves well-being. This event features informative breakout sessions, book/product sales, hands-on workshops, displays, refreshments, door prizes and optional visit to the MSU Indoor/Outdoor Children’s Garden. Join us to learn aspects of horticultural therapy that can enhance adult day services, seniors, children’s programs, recreational therapy programs, school gardens, community and healing gardens, corrections, hospice, medical care/mental health, rehabilitation programs and more.
Early Registration fee is $60 for MHTA members/$80 for non-members (postmarked by March 4).
Regular registration is $70 for MHTA members/$90 for non-members and $30 for full time students. Annual MHTA membership is $20.
Registration fee includes lunch (vegetarian option available).
For additional information contact Cathy Flinton, HTR at 517-332-1616 x16238 or Cathy@michiganhta.org; or M.C. Haering at MC@michiganhta.org or 248-982-6266. Or go to http://www.michiganhta.org/index.php/march-11-conference
MICHIGAN HERB ASSOCIATES CONFERENCE, A GARDEN FIESTA TO REMEMBER! Thursday, March 10th, 2016, MSU, Plant and Soil Sciences Building, East Lansing Mi. Registration and Shoppe Sales start at 8:15 am and the program begins at 9:00 am.
The conference opens with Lucinda Hutson, all the way from Texas. Her talks will be on Herbal Landscapes Inside and Out, and The Ultimate Guide to Entertaining in your Outdoor Spaces. Also speaking, Jessica Wright and Val Albright, Cultivating the Recipe Garden. The day will finish with a Make and Take activity where we will all make a package of Guacamole Seasoning to take home.
The pre-reservation only buffet luncheon will be in the nearby conservatory with linen covered tables, plants, and hopefully butterflies! Check out www.miherb.org for the rest of the lineup, and a registration form to print out and mail. The conference is $45 (early bird rate before Feb 12), Postmarked after February 12, MHA Member Rate $50.00, Non-Member Rate $75.00 Salad Buffet Luncheon $13.00.
You must register by March 2nd to reserve lunches. TIP: You can register up until the day of the conference by phone by calling Dolores Lindsay 517.899.7275, or by coming as a walk-in. Walk in’s will be charged extra.
MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring Program: The Garden Professors April 9, 2016, 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue Street East Lansing, MI
Looking to bust through gardening myths and dig down to the truth? Join the creators of The Garden Professors, a blog where expert professors from around the country use science-based information to provide you with the facts about gardening from every aspect. We will host two of these professors and they will be joined by organic farming expert, Adam Montri. Attendees will have the opportunity to submit questions in advance, many of which will be answered by these experts during a final Q & A session! Early registration (on or before March 31) for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $70, Early registration (on or before March 31) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $80 Registrations received after March 31 $90
Contact: Jennifer Sweet at 517-353-0443 or firstname.lastname@example.org
Growing Great Gardens – Saturday, March 12, 2016 - 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM - Heinz C Prechter Performing Arts Center, 21000 Northline Rd, Taylor, MI
Are you a "plant geek"? Ready for some inspiration? Calling all gardeners for a day of learning, food, prizes and fun at the 8th annual Growing Great Gardens. Enjoy renowned horticulture gurus Scott Beuerlein, Joe Tychonievich, Ed Blondin and Susan Martin. Lunch included. Master Gardeners can earn education hours, too! (5-6 hours, depending on whether you sign up for the BONUS class at lunchtime. Costs: $45 before 1/31. Lunch & learn class $10.
More info- Phone: 888-383-4108
Register at: http://events.r20.constantcontact.com/register/event
Grand Rapids Smart Gardening Conference 2016, March 5, 2016, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. DeVos Place, Grand Rapids, Michigan
Several speakers on native plants, low impact/care gardening, pollinators. More info-
Cost: Early Bird Registration by Feb. 15, 2016 - $60, Late Registration - $70 Enrollment deadline is Friday, Feb. 26, 2016 or until full. Registration at the door is not available.
Contact: Diane Brady, email@example.com, 616-632-786
Great Lakes Hosta College, March 18-19, 2016, Upper Valley Career Center in Piqua, Ohio.
Students attend 5 classes they have chosen from a program of over 70 classes taught by a faculty of approximately 50 volunteers. Mid-day each student has lunch from a delicious buffet included in the registration fee. At the end of the day students take a brief break and then return for a banquet and talk that concludes the Hosta College experience.
The vending area offers a large selection of plants (even though it may be snowing outside!), garden accessories, tools, and other garden-related merchandise for shoppers. The Bookstore features gardening books at fantastic discounts, stationery, society clothing items, and other Hosta College souvenirs. Persons who belong to one of the local societies with membership in the Great Lakes Region receive preferential registration and a reduced registration fee. $42 registration fee for members, $55 registration fee for non-members.
To register or get class list go to http://www.ihostohio.org/portal/glhc/college.asp
Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch.
Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.
Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations
Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com