Tuesday, May 27, 2014

May 27, 2014 Kim's Weekly Garden Newsletter

May 27, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter
These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners
The lilacs are blooming

I am sitting here waiting for rain.  I was out planting pumpkins last night and the soil was very dry.  The hose doesn't reach where I planted the pumpkins so if it doesn't rain I’ll have to lug a bucket there.   There’s a pretty good chance of rain this afternoon-evening and we really need it, it’s amazing how dry it gets in a few hot days.

The lilacs are in full bloom and their scent is competing with the smell of the Lily of the Valley bouquet by my desk.  There’s an article about Lily of the Valley below.  When the lilacs are in full bloom it usually means it’s safe to plant the tender crops and bring out the houseplants.  I am starting on houseplant moving this week as a quick look ahead at the weather shows no chance of frost.

Dames Rocket is also blooming.  Some people hate this plant, calling it an invasive plant but I like it.  So do the butterflies and bees and we want to help them.  Bees don’t care where the plant came from as long as they get something they like from it.

Bees also love the comfrey that’s starting to bloom.  Even the hummingbirds hover over the tiny flowers.  Now there’s a plant that I am wishing I never got started here.  I do constant battle with it.  It comes up everywhere and has to be the most invasive plant I have ever known.   It’s far more invasive than Dames Rocket. 

I am sad that my most productive apple tree has no flowers this year- none.  Out of my four apple trees two flowered, two did not.  It was a hard winter and now I know which varieties are the hardiest.  Another surprising thing is that my bamboo isn’t coming back from the roots like it usually does.  It may still but I usually see sprouts by now.  I also seem to have lost some of my older shrub roses, although they may come back too.

I do know one thing, the weeds didn't disappear.  The warm weather has produced a bumper crop of them.  I weed constantly and can’t keep up.   Besides comfrey, burdock, lambsquarters and mallow are my biggest pests.

My potatoes are sprouting nicely and the lettuce is leaping up. The strawberries have large healthy looking plants with lots of flowers.  Our rhubarb is in full bloom. 

Summer is rapidly coming on. The pond is full of tiny tadpoles which I hope grow into frogs and toads to eat all the mosquitoes.  Mosquitoes are bad here this year.  Maybe I should stop filling the suet feeders, which are being emptied once a day, so the birds will catch bugs to feed their babies.

Plants to look for

There’s still time to shop for plants and here are some more great ones to look for.  I found a Gomphrena ‘Pink Zazzle’ in a local greenhouse and snatched it up.  This plant is getting a lot of attention this year.  Unlike most gomphrenas its flowers are large – about 3 inches across and open instead of looking like buttons with a tuft.  ‘Pink Zazzles’ flowers are a hot pink and it blooms through the summer in sun or partial shade.  The leaves are covered with tiny white hairs that give it a frosted appearance. 
Pink Zazzle flower.  Photo by Proven winners.

‘Pink Zazzle’ is a perennial but it’s only hardy to 40 degrees.  The growers suggest that it can be overwintered inside though, and that it will bloom in the winter in a sunny window.  It’s generally sold in a six inch pot and costs less than $10.00.

A new sedum on the market will make you look twice to see if its real, it looks like plastic.  Its sedum ‘Sunsparkler Blue Pearl’.  It has the bluest leaves of any sedum, strong stems about 24 inches high holding deep pink flowers and hardy to zone 4.

If you like lavender you’ll want to try ‘Platinum Blonde’ a lavender whose leaves have a light yellow edge.  It has typical fragrant lavender blue flowers and is hardy to zone 5.

I like big hostas and hosta ‘Victory’ is a big one.  Its huge leaves are green with yellow margins.  The American Hosta Growers have already chosen it as the 2015 hosta of the year.  If you like small hosta you’ll be charmed by hosta ‘Curly Fries’ that grows only 6 inches high.  ‘Curly Fries’ is chartreuse green with unusual narrow leaves that have rippled edges.  It’s hardy to zone 3.

Petunia Good and Plenty Orange
I just have to add one more petunia.  ‘Good and Plenty Orange’ is a large flowered true orange petunia.   It has a nice full mounded shape when mature.  I have mine in a brown crock for some color in one of my beds but I can see it used in a number of ways.  I am old enough to remember when petunias came in mostly purple and blue shades with some white thrown in.  Then we got pink and finally red petunias, now we have yellow, orange, black and green petunias, what’s next?

Watch out for those bulk spices

It’s hardly surprising when you think of it and one reason I avoid buying bulk spices and other foods.  Researchers tested spices from bulk displays in Kansas and found them vastly contaminated with everything from heavy metals to E. coli.  If you ever watched a youngster playing in bulk foods while a parent shopped nearby, someone sneezing on foods they are choosing, someone feeling or tasting spices in a bulk display then you understand why these bulk spices (and other foods) may be contaminated with human pathogens.  Let’s not even think about flies, cockroaches and mice doing their own feeling and tasting.

But spices sold in the US, especially those in cheap bulk form, are most often grown in other countries.  Those countries may have few standards and rules in effect for the spices they export.  Researchers found lots of pesticide residue, heavy metals like lead, paint chips, soil, insect bodies, hair, manure, and other unidentified particles in the bulk spice samples they tested. Cheap spices are also commonly adulterated with other plant substances to lower costs.

These studies were done in Kansas by Kansas State University but most of these bulk spices are widely distributed across the US and it has to be assumed that most of them are equally contaminated.  The FDA has recently completed a study on human pathogens and contaminants found in bulk spices that you can read here.  It’s a large file. http://www.fda.gov/downloads/food/foodscienceresearch/risksafetyassessment/ucm367337.pdf

The FDA found that spices may be stored for years and in that time go through a number of facilities and processing steps all of which increase the chances of contamination.  Black pepper, red pepper, white pepper, paprika, curry powder, turmeric, sesame seed, anise seed, and fennel seed have all caused outbreaks of food “poisoning” in the last few years, generally by being contaminated with salmonella.  While the spices came from a variety of countries, China, India, Brazil, and Malaysia and so on, the FDA also believes that some of the contamination was done in the US in storage and packaging places.

Filth contamination of spices is very common in all spices and seeds used for cooking and teas.  Insect parts are the most common filth contaminant but the list of crud found in spices is long and unappealing.

The FDA believes that all spices should be cooked, that is added to food before cooking to make them safe.  Think of that when you are sprinkling black pepper on the cold potato salad you are making.  Ground peppers are some of the worst offenders when it comes to being contaminated with pathogens. 

So what can you do to make sure the spices you use are safe?  Buy sealed packages of brand name spices to start, not bulk or bargain spices.  Store those packages safely when you get them home.  The refrigerator is ideal if they are in dry sealed containers.  Otherwise keep them dry, dark and tightly closed.  Throw out spices that are opened after 1 year.  Using spices before cooking is better than using them after cooking as heat destroys most pathogens.

The US produces few spices except powdered onion and some garlic. (Packaged in the US is not grown in the US.)  But you can grow and dry many spices yourself such as rosemary, sage, thyme, even anise, poppy, and sesame seed.  Some spices like black pepper would be hard to grow yourself.  I am wondering if a heat treatment of purchased spices such as in the oven or microwave would at least kill the pathogens.  You would need to heat them to 160 degrees F. for a few minutes.  You may also want to reconsider what spices you add to food after it’s cooked.

Back to lard

Here’s some more food news that may make you uncomfortable.  About 50 years ago there was a campaign to move people away from lard and butter as cooking fats to plant derived oils.  The saturated fats were cited as being bad for your health, particularly your heart.   The oils that replaced them however, may not be as good for us as originally thought.

A large research study done by Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine found that canola, corn and soybean oil caused lung damage and increased the risk of asthma.  They believe that the rise in asthma cases in the last 40 years or so can be tied directly to the increased use of these oils.

Corn, soybean and canola oil contain Vitamin E in the form of gamma-tocopherol.  Research in humans and some animal studies have found that gamma-tocopherol causes lung damage.  People in the US have 4 times the level of gamma-tocopherol in their blood than people from European and Asian countries where other oils such as olive oil and sunflower seed oil are more common in the diet.  These oils contain alpha-tocopherol rather than gamma-tocopherol, and do not harm the lungs.  You can read more of this research here.

People who already have asthma or reduced lung function should avoid canola, corn and soybean oil.  I know I will now avoid them because of my lung problems.  Olive oil and sunflower oil are said to be fine.   I don’t know what peanut, safflower or hemp oil have in them but if they don’t contain gamma-tocopherol they should be safe. Or you could go back to eating modest amounts of lard and butter which the newest research says aren’t all that bad when reasonable amounts are consumed.

Another homemade trap – for bedbugs

Last week’s homemade trap for stinkbugs got a lot of interest so here’s another homemade trap you may be interested in.  Bedbugs are not only creepy and painful but they are extremely difficult and expensive to control.  The fine folks at the University of Florida's Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences have come up with a homemade, inexpensive bedbug trap that anyone can make.  This will capture bedbugs as they move from daytime hiding places to feed on you as you sleep.  It involves two plastic containers, some tape and some talc powder.  You place the traps under the legs of beds and other furniture.  It’s safe for children and pets and avoids making your home a soup of toxic chemicals.  You can see a video about the trap and how to make it at http://bit.ly/1vfXPrL.

There are great benefits to this trap and over time it might totally eliminate a bedbug population, along with some diligence and strict cleaning procedures.  But if you are already being eaten alive at night you still may want to call in a professional exterminator.

Lily of the Valley
Beautiful Lily of the Valley

Lily of the Valley, Convallaria majalis, is the old fashioned, sweetly scented but deadly flower often romanticized in song and prose.  There are 3 species native to cooler areas of Europe, Asia and the Appalachian Mountains of the United States.  Other names for the plant are Mary’s Tears and Our Lady’s Tears although this plant cannot be the Lilies of the Valley mentioned in the bible.

Lily of the Valley has one or two upright, broad oval shaped leaves that rise from the base of the plant on a sturdy stem.  The leaves are dark green, thick, and parallel veins run from top to bottom.  The roots have small bulb like structures that are called pips.  The plant sends out runners just below the ground that produce new plantlets, all a clone of the original. 

In late spring stems of tiny, nodding white bells arise from the plants base. Each bell has 6 slightly upturned scallops on the bottom edge.  Bees are attracted to the flowers.  The flowers are very fragrant and a stand of Lily of the Valley can perfume the air for a considerable distance. 
In earlier times Lily of the Valley was grown for cut flowers and they still make long lasting, wonderfully fragrant bouquets in small vases.  Lily of the Valley is popular as a wedding flower but quite expensive when out of season. (They can be produced in climate controlled greenhouses.)

If there are two different Lilies of the Valley close to each other and not just clones of one plant the flowers will produce tiny red berries.  Lily of the Valley is self-infertile- clones cannot pollinate with each other and the original parent.  That doesn’t stop them from completely filling an area that they like and the plant can be considered invasive in some spots.

Lily of the Valley Culture

These lovely and fragrant flowers are surprisingly sturdy and make a great groundcover in shaded or semi-shaded areas.   They are hardy to zone 3 at least and like cold winters with hot summers.  Lily of the Valley likes shaded or semi-shaded locations with sandy, loose, organic soil that is slightly acidic, but they will grow in a wide variety of soil types.  The plant dies to the ground after frost and returns each spring from the roots.

Lily of the Valley may be purchased as plants or pips, which look like root joints or tiny bulbs.  Plant them as soon as they arrive if they are not potted.  It can take 2 years before some plants or pips flower but some will flower the first season.  Fall is considered the best time to plant Lily of the Valley.  You will sometimes see seeds offered but these tend to have a low germination and high failure rate.  Plants and pips are the best way to start the plant in your garden.

There are light pink and double flowered varieties of Lily of the Valley and a variety with variegated leaves.  These are hard to find and don’t seem to be as long lived as the common variety.  Some people have found that after a while these varieties seem to revert to plain white Lily of the Valley.

If summer is dry and hot the Lily of the Valley may die back or look ragged and limp and not be the prettiest groundcover.  Therefore the occasional watering during dry spells is recommended.  A light application of slow release fertilizer for flowers in early spring will make the flowers more abundant and larger. Lily of the Valley has few insect pests or disease problems and deer and rabbits rarely bother them.

Be aware that Lily of the Valley can spread rapidly through a flower bed and can be difficult to totally remove once they get a start.  They are best used as a ground cover in shaded areas or kept in small patches restricted by mowing or pavement.  They will naturalize in wooded areas.

Also be aware that all parts of the Lily of the Valley are poisonous.  Care should be used if they are planted around children’s play areas or pet areas.   Pets should not be allowed to drink water from vases that  Lily of the Valley are displayed in. Berries should be removed if any form because they can attract children.  Don’t use the flowers as decorations on food.

The plant affects the heart rate and may cause vomiting, blurred vision, dizziness and collapse.  It can cause death.  If any parts of the plant are eaten it is important to call poison control immediately and seek medical attention.

Other Uses of Lily of the Valley

Lily of the Valley does have herbal uses but its use should only be practiced under the care of a skilled, knowledgeable herbalist.  It is used as a diuretic and a heart regulator similar to digitalis.

Perfume is made from the flowers of Lily of the valley.  The flowers are steeped in light oil such as almond oil or in alcohol such as vodka.  This should only be applied externally.

An unusual attribute of Lily of the Valley has recently been discovered.  The sperm of mammals will swim rapidly toward a component of Lily of the Valley.  Sperm can’t smell, as early research thought, rather the Lily of the Valley alters the calcium content of the fluid around sperm and imitates progesterone’s effect on sperm.   It is being used in research and fertility studies.

The sweet smell of Lily of the Valley signifies spring to many people and the plant has good uses as a ground cover for shade.  If care is taken with its invasive and poisonous qualities it can be an excellent landscape perennial.

Take time to smell the flowers- it’s the right time to do it.
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information
Growing a variety of flowering plants helps bees and other beneficial insects
Growing a mixture of annuals, perennials and flowering trees and shrubs will help bees and other beneficial insects that provide natural control of plant pests.
Posted on May 20, 2014 by Dave Smitley, Michigan State University Extension, Department of Entomology

Bees have been in the news this spring. Each week I see another article about the struggles of bees and beekeepers. Unfortunately, the challenges for professional beekeepers are being confused with advice for making our yards and gardens bee-friendly, when in fact there is very little connection. Professional beekeepers move their colonies to a sequence of agricultural crops during the spring and summer to provide crop pollination, so those bees are not usually foraging in our neighborhoods. However, the growing interest in the bees that frequent our yards and gardens  does provide a great opportunity to explain the benefits of encouraging bees and beneficial insects in the yard and garden.

Plant a diversity of flowers that bloom all season long
Honey bees, bumble bees and many different species of smaller native bees are important for pollinating native plants and ornamental plants in your yard and garden. A healthy population of bees is critical for pollinating fruits and vegetables in the orchard and garden. The best way to encourage bees is plant a variety of annual flowers, perennials and flowering trees and shrubs so that you have a steady progression of flowering plants from early spring through summer and fall.

Although some annual flowers like marigold, verbena and salvia are better than others for bees, almost all annuals are visited by bees, and they bloom all through the growing season. Perennial flowers, like salvia, any of the mints, coneflowers and daisies, are very good for bees, and some of them, like hardy mums, are frost-resistant, so they will continue flowering through late September and October. Flowering trees and shrubs are very good for bees, too, especially ones that flower in early spring before most annual and perennial flowers are blooming.

Bee-friendly plantings will benefit other beneficial insects
Another important benefit of growing flowering plants is that they provide nectar and pollen for hundreds of species of tiny parasitic wasps (these don’t sting humans) and predators that help to keep plant-feeding insects under control. You have probably noticed that trees in woodlots and in the forest are not usually plagued by hungry insects. That is because of predators and parasites that naturally keep them under control. Many of these parasites need pollen or nectar to sustain them in the adult stage when they are searching for caterpillars, aphids and other plant-feeding insects to deposit their eggs inside of. Predators also need pollen to supplement their diet or to sustain them at times when prey is hard to find. So, providing a variety of flowering plants will help predators and parasites that naturally keep plant pests under control.

Use as few insecticides as possible and never spray blooming flowers
Another way to encourage bees and beneficial insects is to avoid spraying insecticides as much as possible, and never spray blooming flowers. Spraying insecticides will sometimes cause an outbreak of spider mites, aphids or other plant pests because you have killed lots of beneficial insects which tend to be more sensitive to pesticides than the plant-feeding insects. Even after planting lots of flowers and avoiding pesticides, you may still see some damage from plant-feeding insects. For caterpillars, products containing Bacillus thuringensis or B.t. can be used without harming bees and beneficial insects.

Another bee-friendly option is to use horticultural oil or an insecticidal soap. They are effective on most soft-bodied insects and can be used on cool mornings (less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit), after sunset, or at any time that bees are not present. The soap and oil residue is not harmful to bees, but spraying them directly is. Soap and oil can cause some plant injury, especially to open flowers, so do not exceed the rate given on the product label. In rare cases where a plant needs to be protected against damaging insects by using a broad-spectrum insecticide, it should be sprayed after the plant is done blooming.

What about neonicotinoid insecticides?
As with all insecticides, do not spray neonicotinoids on flowers. Also, avoid using products containing imidacloprid or clothianidin as a soil drench around plants that attract bees. Using them as a drench around the base of wind-pollinated trees and shrubs, such as most evergreens and trees like oaks and ash, is not likely to harm bees because bees rarely visit wind-pollinated plants.

What about the pesticides used on flowers, trees and shrubs sold at garden centers?
Nursery growers and greenhouse growers have been working closely with Michigan State University on how to grow plants that are safe for bees and other pollinators. They are following best management practices that include using alternatives to neonicotinoid insecticides and they avoid spraying flowers close to when they are shipped to garden centers to make plants as safe as possible for pollinators.

For more information on identifying and encouraging pollinators, see the Michigan State University Extension bulletin on “Native Bees and Their Conservation on Farmland” by Rufus Isaacs and Julianna Tuell (http://bit.ly/conservBees).
Dr. Smitley’s work is funded in part by MSU‘s AgBioResearch.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me at kimwillis151@gmail.com

New- Wild Edibles of Early Summer Sunday, June 8, 2:00 pm, Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI  (810) 796-3200

Today we will forage for early greens and berries while learning how the early residents utilized the plants growing around them.

New- What is Popping in the Ponds?, Sunday, June 29, 2:00 pm Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI  (810) 796-3200

Wetland plants will be blooming and birds will be singing on our walk to see what is popping.

New-Build a Hypertufa Leaf Birdbath, Saturday, July 5, 10:00 am Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI  (810) 796-3200

A hypertufa birdbath nestled into a garden space will attract a myriad of bird species. In this class we will learn the process using a real leaf as a mold. Please bring a blanket to cradle your project on the way home and a bag lunch. Please call to preregister for this adult (12 and up) class. Fee $15.00 (members $12.00).

New- Rose Show Sat, June 14, 1-5 pm,  Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids, MI,

Sponsored by the Grand Valley Rose Society at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park.  See a variety of rose blooms--hybrid teas, miniatures, floribundas and old-fashioned types, all locally grown and carefully prepped for this judged show. Vote for the most fragrant rose and see lovely rose arrangements. Grand Valley Rose Society members will be available all weekend to answer your questions and provide growing tips. Anyone can enter roses in this show--a special section will be reserved for "novice" entries. Bring your finest roses (along with their names) to Meijer Gardens on Saturday between 8 am and 10 am. Rose Society members will provide guidance and encouragement.

Fee: Free For more information www.meijergardens.org.

New- 24th Annual Ann Arbor Garden Walk Sat, June 14, 10am-4pm, Ann Arbor, MI,
Winter has been brutal this year, but Spring has arrived, and that means it will be time for Ann Arbor Farm & Garden's 24th Annual Ann Arbor Garden Walk on Saturday, June 14th, from 10 am to 4 pm. We have six unique private gardens lined up in the Ann Arbor Hills area and one public garden at Arbor Hospice.

Waterfalls and ponds; arbors and pergolas; hillside plantings; terracing and hardscaping; evergreen borders and an extensive array of perennials -- all this and more awaits you. Come find the next idea or inspiration for your own green space!

Proceeds from the 2014 Garden Walk will benefit two organizations: Leslie Science & Nature Center (LSNC) and Edible Avalon. At LSNC, Garden Walk funds will support rejuvenation and expansion of the Center’s landscaping using native grasses, plants, and shrubs. These native plantings will provide educational and demonstration opportunities for visitors. Edible Avalon, a non-profit program of Avalon Housing, develops community gardens tended by residents, along with nutrition and health-related programs and youth programs focused on local food and sustainable gardening.

Tickets are on sale now; cost is $15 per person. Tickets can be purchased at any of the gardens on the day of the event, or in advance at these locations: Dixboro General Store, Downtown Home & Garden, Matthaei Botanical Gardens, Nicola's Books. You can also purchase tickets online using PayPal through June 4 (a small handling fee is added to each ticket) For more information  and online tickets www.annarborfarmandgarden.org.

The Lapeer area Horticulture Society is looking for new members.  There are no education or experience requirements to join; only a love of gardening is needed.  The Horticulture Society meets the third Monday of each month for socializing, networking and a brief educational presentation.  Next meeting is at Swoish’s Greenhouse, North Branch, May 19th 6:30 pm.  Everyone is invited to join.  Dues are only $15 a year.  For more information on joining or meeting locations contact Bev Kobylas at bkobylas@yahoo.com

The Lapeer Horticultural Society is having a Plant and Yard sale May 31st, from 8 am to 2 pm at 316 Davis Lake Road, Lapeer.
This yard sale will feature a variety of garden plants and interesting items for the home and yard.  Proceeds benefit the Lapeer Horticulture Society.  The sale is on the north side of Lapeer, just off M24.

The 3rd Annual Michigan Honey Festival- Saturday, July 12, 2014 10am - 5pm at  The Harvey Kern Pavilion in Frankenmuth, Michigan.

Attend educational seminars and learn all you need to start beekeeping! Purchase all your beekeeping supplies from a variety of vendors.  Lots of Michigan honey for sale. Learn how to brew honey beer and mead and attend the many cooking with honey demonstrations.   There is a children’s craft area and a demonstration garden done by Master Gardeners.  Watch a bee beard demonstration.  There will be lots of interesting products to sample and buy made from honey or bee’s wax. 

This year’s festival is all indoors, so no weather worries.  Admission is $5 for adults, children 12 and under free.  More information ? http://www.michiganhoneyfestival.com/contact.html


10th Heavenly Hosta Sale, Sat, May 31,  9am-2pm, Sunday, June 1,  Noon-2pm –First Presbyterian Church 1432 Washtenaw Avenue, Ann Arbor, MI.

Multiple groups will be selling hostas as a fund raiser. Many varieties available and master gardeners will be on-site. http://firstpresbyterian.org/

Clarkston Perennial Plant Exchange Sat, , June 7, 8:30am, Village Parking Lot Clarkston, MI.

Sponsored by the Clarkston Farm & Garden Club. Bring well rooted, tagged perennials. www.clarkstongarden.org    248-620-2984

Master Gardener College (open to public) June 20-21, MSU, East Lansing, MI
This year’s event features exciting full day tours and hands-on workshops on Friday followed by a delicious dinner at the University Club in East Lansing. Saturday features two entertaining and educational keynote speakers, as well as eighteen exciting sessions to choose from in order to feed your mind with science-based gardening knowledge.  And, of course, there will be plenty of buying opportunities.
Key note speaker Charlie Nardozzi will speak on Foodscaping...A Growing Revolution   Almost a third of American households now do some kind of food gardening. While everyone wants  to grow their own food, many are unwilling to give up precious yard space or have their yard, perceivably, look unruly.

You do not have to be a Master Gardener to attend. Re-certified MG get a discount. There is a wide variety of pricing options for this event starting at about $65 for a single workshop to about $200.00 for the 2 day event.  Please go to http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=mgcollege14  for more information and to register.

You must pre-register. Registration fees are refundable until May 31, 2014, less a $20 cancellation fee. After May 31, refunds are no longer available.  For more information, contact Betsy Braid at 517-884-7081 or braidbet@msu.edu.

Garden Day August 2, 2014, 8 am – 4:15 pm,  Michigan State University Department of Horticulture, East Lansing Mi.


MSU’s annual garden day is on Saturday this year.  The keynote speaker is Amy Stewart, author of Wicked Plants, Flower Confidential, and The Drunken Botanist and other books.  Ms Stewart is also the concluding speaker and you can also stay for a reception after the event where she will discuss the Drunken Botanist. You can choose from a number of excellent workshops/classes, 1 morning and 1 afternoon session. Classes include Herbal housekeeping, Best Herbaceous perennials, Creative Containers, Dividing Perennials, Herbs at Home, Pruning Basics, Gardening in the Shade, Unusual Trees and Shrubs, Creative Edge, and Going Native.

Cost of the event is $85 until July 22nd , $95 after.  Lunch and free parking included. Additional $39 for evening reception.  Go to hrt.msu.edu/garden-day-2014  for class descriptions and to register.


2014 MASTER GARDENER ASSOCIATION - GENESEE COUNTY, MICHIGAN GARDEN TOUR – June 22nd 2014.

Celebrate spring by enjoying a stroll through beautiful gardens in Genesee County's east side. Each site has its own unique features. The homeowner or a Master Gardener would be delighted to answer any questions. Although each garden looks very different, all of the homeowners share the passion of watching their garden grow and expand each year. Much thought has been put into every loved plant or garden art. The gardeners believe that the garden is an expression of them. Fortunately for us, they want to share their masterpiece with us.

Please join us in touring nine outstanding gardens on Genesee County’s east side Sunday, June 22 10:00AM - 5:00PM.and visit the For-Mar Truck Farm at one of the sites. Mark your calendar for the easy self-guided tour. The total tour is 16.3 miles with easy access from I-69 to start at site #1 and I-75 to end at site #10 home. There are no rules where you start or finish, but the routemoves nicely goingfromnorth to south or south to nor

Advance tickets will be available on May 23rd at the MSU Extension office for $10.00, $2.00 for children under 12. Advance tickets will also be available on May 23rd from the following merchants:

Bordine Nursery 9100 Torrey Rd, Grand Blanc - (810) 655-5588
Jenny B’s Garden Party 9063 Clio Rd. Clio - (810) 687-7742
Piechnik Greenhouse,13172 McCumsey Road, Clio - (810) 686-9211
Walker Farms & Greenhouse 5253 Atherton Road, Burton (810) 743-0260

Tickets may also be purchased the day of the tour (Sunday, June 22rd) at any of the garden sites. Site addresses will be posted on the web page the night before the tour. The photo on the ticket cover was by a student that won the coloring contest at one of Swartz Creek’s elementary schools.
Gardens will be open for viewing on June 22 from 10A – 5P, Rain or Shine.
Visit the web site for driving directions/questions: http://GCgardentour.weebly.com/

NOTE: Gardens open only on this specific day and time. PLEASE BE CONSIDERATE!
Accommodations for persons with disabilities may be requested by calling Jim Harrow, Plant & Pest Hotline (810) 244-8548 two (2) weeks prior to the event to ensure sufficient time to make arrangements. Requests received after this date will be met when possible.



Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com



Tuesday, May 20, 2014

May 20, 2014, Kim's Weekly Garden Newsletter


These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners
One of my new tulips.

Yesterday was a gorgeous day, just right for weeding and planting.  Today is the right kind of day to stay inside and write about planting!  I think we get more showers in May than we do in April- let’s hope it means great June flowers!

Keep an eye on the sky late today and tomorrow because there is a small chance of severe weather, especially south of M69.  It means a warm front is working its way in so it’s hard to complain.  But keeping the grass mowed gets a bit hard in this weather- especially when there is so much planting and weeding to do.

My redbud is blooming and the flowering quince.  Alliums are starting to bloom in the garden, as well as early iris.  The rhubarb went to stalk quickly this year and is just ready to bloom.  My strawberries have buds.  Plums and cherries are in full bloom but apples are just starting to bloom.  Magnolias are starting to fall, and my tulip show is beginning to fade.    Lilacs are showing color and will bloom soon here.

Its Memorial weekend- time for planting

Memorial weekend has become almost synonymous with planting but be a bit wary.  This is a moveable holiday and this year almost week ahead of what it would be if it were a fixed holiday like it used to be.  It’s probably fine to plant most things now, but keep an eye out for frost still and be prepared to cover tender plants if needed.
Gardeners have a choice to make between getting the first fruits and flowers and losing early planted crops or flowers.  If something is expensive or one of a kind err on the side of caution and hold off planting another week or so.  Otherwise plant on! 

I have planted early sweet corn and tomatoes outside.  My potatoes and onions are already planted- well some of my onions.  I always buy too many sets.  So I will be planting onions everywhere for a while.   Remember everything doesn’t have to be planted this week.  Making several plantings a week or so apart of things like beans and corn makes for a longer harvest.

You may want to get down to that greenhouse before the weekend to get the best choices, but I think this year there will still be plenty after the weekend passes.  Don’t forget the farmers market will be selling plants as well as the first garden offerings so get to one soon.

I’d wait at least a week to put houseplants outside.  Remember to put them in the shade first- so they get used to being outside- and gradually move certain sun lovers into the sun.  Most houseplants do better with partly shaded to shaded locations outside.

Keeping the weeds out

It often seems like weeds grow even faster than the grass at this time of year.  And if you have a vegetable garden it’s important to keep weeds down as your new plants emerge or get established.  We know that weeds compete for water and soil nutrients with desirable plants but new research has discovered something else.


Many weeds also inhibit the expression of certain genes in plants as studies at the University of North Dakota have proved.  Researchers studied the genome of plants grown with and without weeds to see what changes happened to the genes in plants exposed to weeds.

The changes seen in gene expression are partly because of stress from competition but there is also an effect that as yet cannot be attributed to stress alone.   When weeds are allowed to grow with corn plants for example, the corn has a weaker immune system and doesn’t adjust to additional stresses, such as drought, as well.  And the corn doesn’t grow as strongly or produce as much foliage and seeds, although this effect may not be too apparent when weeds are removed early.   Even when the weeds were removed while the corn had only 3-4 leaves the effect remained throughout the plants life.

Conversely some weeds grew better when they were growing with certain plants rather than without them.  Their genes were altered in a beneficial way.   Most gardeners are familiar with what is known as companion planting- growing certain plants together to improve the yield of both – and this study proves that there is probably some validity to the practice.  It may be a chemical reaction that changes the expression of certain genes either to the plants benefit or loss or something we still haven’t figured out yet.

One thing gardeners can take away from this is that gardens need to be kept weeded if plants are to grow to their full potential.  Or at least certain plants and certain weeds need to be separated, we need to do a whole lot more research to determine just what plants help or hinder other plants.

A stink bug trap you can make

Stink bugs can be annoying in the home when they are attracted to lights in the evening and their big ugly selves create panic in bug phobic people, even though native stink bugs are pretty harmless.  The Brown Marmorated Stink bug, a newly arrived exotic pest can damage lots of fruits and vegetables in the garden.   Stink bug traps are the best way to cut the population of these stinkers down, as chemicals aren’t too effective when used on them.  The garden industry has raced to produce stink bugs traps, the newest ‘trap” craze.

Two things have popped out in the latest garden industry news however.  The first is hardly a revelation.  Using a stinkbug trap in the garden actually results in more damage to fruits and vegetables than not using one.  That’s because the traps attract more bugs to the garden, duh!  This is also true of Japanese beetle traps and other insect traps.  If you want to use a trap in the garden place it well away from the plants you want to protect – at least 50 feet away.
Brown Marmorated Stink Bug - wikimedia

The second bit of news is that a trap you can make yourself, for little cost, will trap stink bugs in the home better than any commercial trap. Researchers in the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences at Virginia Tech University tried and rated a lot of different stink bug traps.  They found that a trap you can make at home easily was the best “killer” of stink bugs in the home.   You can see their video of how to make the trap at http://vimeo.com/92354801 

The trap basically consists of an aluminum foil cake pan filled with a water-dish soap solution with a light suspended over it.  (By the way this is also an effective flea trap.)  This is set up at night.  The light attracts the bugs; they drown in the water, (the dish soap helps destroy any floating ability), you empty the trap and re-fill it.  Simple.

Remember the Emerald Ash Borer?

MSU is reporting this week that they now suspect that the Emerald Ash Borer was in the country, specifically Wayne County, MI.  at least 10 years before it was discovered.  I well remember the fall when MSU announced that they had finally identified a beetle they suspected of killing Ash trees.  They then thought the beetle had been here a couple of years.   By spring MDA and MSU had joined forces to try and stop the beetle.  But even though they threw some money at the problem that money was not spent wisely.  The Michigan Depart of Agriculture and Natural Resources and MSU did not act quickly and effectively enough to stop the spread of the beetle.

In Michigan the fact that we have lost the Ash population is pretty evident and old news.  In my area of the state the woods and roadsides are littered with dead, ugly ash trees.  In the original tri-county area of infestation the trees have largely been removed and the public has largely forgotten the problem.  But other states are just now entering battle mode with the little green insect.  It’s probable that eventually, regardless of what is done now, that we will lose all ashes in the Eastern US, if not the whole country.

This is a shame, since this might have been prevented, had Michigan acted aggressively and responsibly to halt the spread of the insect when they did find it.  And the US Agricultural Department certainly dropped the ball by not stepping in and making Michigan fight the battle and helping it do it.   Instead we tiptoed around trying not to upset the lumber industry or the tourist industry by aggressively banning wood transportation.  We had to hold countless meetings and public forums before we did anything.  Our Michigan quarantine efforts were just silly and the fines we imposed for breaking quarantine the first several years were antiquated and not even enforced.   And it’s not that we didn’t know how destructive this beetle could be.  By the time it was identified we pretty much knew what a killer it was and how it killed trees. 

While it was great that MSU got money to study how to kill the beast, we should also have been spending money from the very first season to eradicate it in a way we knew could work, getting rid of infested trees and halting any movement of wood in the state.  Instead we used money to make posters, have educational meetings that could give homeowners no real and effective method of killing the beetle (chemical methods still aren’t that effective) and we had little contests on ways to use the dead ash trees. 

To be fair MSU didn’t have the power to impose quarantines or restrict movement that should have been done by the State and Federal government.  But they sure loved all that Emerald Ash Borer money those government bodies threw at them.  They actively petitioned the government for money supposedly to educate the public, which was done to some extent, and for control research but a lot of that money was just plain wasted.  Some in MSU’s entomology and horticulture divisions may have recommended more aggressive handling of the quarantine but they were largely drowned out by those wanting money to “research” the problem.

We should have been fighting the beetle by clear cutting quarantine borders, removing and burning infested trees, aggressively halting wood transportation and putting in effect certain other restrictions Michigan was reluctant to impose.  Could we have halted it?  Maybe.  We blew it, quite frankly.  Now Michigan has the distinction of being the state that gave the country Emerald Ash Borer.  MSU’s announcement that the beetle was in the state years before we even detected a problem just underscores our poor performance in this arena.

Growing Jacob’s Ladder

Jacob’s Ladder or Polemonium (Pronounced: po-lee-MOE-nee-um )  is not seen as often in the garden as it should be.  Jacobs Ladder is a hardy, perennial, easy to grow plant that thrives in woodland or partly shaded gardens.  Its fern-like foliage contrasts nicely with hosta, heuchera, columbine, astilbe, corydalis and other shade loving plants even when its pretty blue flowers are gone.  Other common names for the plant include Greek Valerian and Devils Backbone.  

Polemonium confertum- native to Rocky Mnts.
Credit USDAFS-Andrew Kratz
There are many native species of Polemonium spread across the cooler areas of the world and only a few are being used as ornamentals, with two species Polemonium reptans and Polemonium caeruleum dominating the garden scene.  It is a shame that other species aren’t being utilized more often as there are many interesting members in the genus.  Sometimes native species are sold in catalogs but it can be hard to find the more unusual species.

Polemonium has leaves divided into leaflets, which decrease in size as they proceed to the tip, giving it the common name, Jacobs Ladder.  Leaves range from a purplish tinge to bright green and there are at least two varieties with pretty variegated leaves.  The plant slowly grows into a large mound from 12- 18 inches high depending on variety and growing conditions.  Foliage dies to the ground each winter. 

Polemonium flowers are produced in clusters on tall stems from the center of the foliage in early summer.  The most common species have 5 petals and are about a ½ inch in diameter.  There is a cluster of yellow stamens in the center, sometimes red tipped. There are species of Polemonium with double flowers and also with trumpet shaped flowers.   Most Polemoniums have blue or purple flowers but white “sports” have been developed and are sometimes offered in garden catalogs.  One native species has pale yellow trumpet shaped flowers (Polemonium pauciflorum).  Pink flowers are rarely seen.  One variety of Jacob’s Ladder, ‘Apricot Delight’ is said to be blue with a peach colored center.

Most Jacob’s Ladder flowers are mildly fragrant if the fragrance can be determined at all.  One variety offered in catalogs ‘Snow and Sapphires’ is often described as fragrant but that is a debatable term.  Polemonium flowers are appealing to bees and butterflies however, and at least one species of moth in North America, Coleophora polemoniella, uses the plant to feed its larvae.

Other varieties of Polemonium

There are a few cultivars or named varieties of Polemonium commonly offered in garden stores and catalogs.  ‘Snow and Sapphires’, mentioned above, has green foliage tipped in snowy white and tall stalks of sky-blue flowers.  Another variegated foliage Polemonium is ‘Stairway to Heaven’.  It has white variegated leaves that are flushed with pink in cool weather and lavender blue flowers.  ‘Touch of Class’ is a newer white variegated foliage Polemonium with medium blue flowers.

White flowered Polemoniums include ‘Album’ and White Pearl.’  ‘Purple Rain’ has purple tinted foliage  and deep purple flowers.  A hard to find variety of Polemonium pauciflorum called ‘Sulfur Trumpets’ has silver-green foliage and pale yellow trumpet shaped flowers.

Caring for Polemonium


Polemonium is hardy in plant zones 3-7.   Polemonium likes rich, humus laden soil in a partially shaded or dappled shade environment.  It will survive deeper shade but won’t bloom well there.   When it is happy it makes large attractive clumps over several years.  Flowers do produce abundant seed and the plant can seed itself in the garden but is rarely invasive enough to be a pest.   Cutting the flower stalks off after blooming stops will stop reseeding and makes the plant more attractive. 
Jacob's Ladder.

Polemonium should be watered when the soil becomes dry and they do not do well in dry shade.  A light application of slow release flower fertilizer in early spring makes for larger, more vibrant clumps.  Avoid too much fertilization as this makes flower stalks floppy and the foliage more sprawling.  Too much sun or dry conditions will cause the foliage to tip burn, curl and look unattractive.

Polemonium foliage is attractive to some cats just as catnip is.  This is more apparent when plants are bruised or cut.  Cats will sometimes damage plants by rolling on them or eating them. Some gardeners never have a problem with cats and it may be that individual plants vary in their attractiveness to cats.  Polemonium is also eaten by rabbits and deer.  Other than those pests Polemonium has few disease or insect problems to worry about.

Clumps of Jacob’s Ladder do not need to be divided but if you want to increase the plant you can dig and divide the clump in late summer.  Promptly replant the divisions and keep them watered. 

Other uses of Polemonium

In earlier days Polemonium had some herbal uses but no modern herbal lists them as useful.  A black dye can be produced by boiling the plant in olive oil and this is sometimes used to darken and condition hair. 

Polemonium is a wonderful plant to attract bees and butterflies to shady areas.  The foliage provides interest and useful texture contrast to shaded gardens or even containers.  Polemonium naturalizes in woodland gardens and will give years of enjoyment.  Plant it along paths and in front of borders so you can enjoy the sight and possibly the smell of its pretty blue flowers.
Have a great 1st weekend of summer!
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information
Invasive Parrot Feather plant found in southeast Michigan pond
Michigan Department of Natural Resources responds to the siting of this aggressive aquatic invader. Release from an aquarium or water garden is suspected source.
Posted on May 14, 2014 by Jane Herbert, Michigan State University Extension

A Michigan Department of Natural Resources (MDNR) news release details the state’s response to last fall’s siting of the invasive aquatic plant, parrot feather (Myriophyllum aquaticum). The invasion was found in a storm water detention pond located in Wayne County’s Brownstone Township in southeast Michigan.

Parrot feather is related to Eurasian Water Milfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum)—an aggressive aquatic invasive that is all too familiar to Michigan lake enthusiasts. Often found in retail centers under the wrong name, parrot feather is a popular water gardening and aquarium plant with deeply cut, bright blue-green, feathery leaflets. It is one of the few submerged aquatic plants whose stems and leaves extend above the surface of the water. Parrot feather is highly aggressive and heavy infestations resemble a forest of tiny fir trees across the surface that shade and crowd out native aquatic plants. Trailing stems, up to 5 feet long, form dense, strangling mats below the surface.
Parrot Feather  MDNR-Matt Ankey

As with last summer’s siting of European Frog-bit in Alpena, the MDNR Early Detection Rapid Response Unit worked with local government to conduct verification and assessment. This process included a survey of local waters near the detention pond. To date, it appears the parrot feather is isolated to the detention pond; however, more intensive survey efforts are being planned for the surrounding area in the spring of 2014. (For a full article on the MDNR’s response to both sitings please visit a recent issue of Land and Water Magazine.)

According to the MDNR, parrot feather is a “prohibited species” in Michigan, which makes its possession, transport or release illegal, due to the severe negative effects it can have on native ecosystems. Parrot feather has only been found in the Great Lakes basin in a few previous locations (in Michigan’s Oakland County and Indiana’s Steuben County). The source of this new infestation is unknown, but it is possible that this plant - popular in aquariums and water gardens - may have been released into the pond.

To prevent the spread of aquatic invasive species, Michigan State University Extension urges that aquarium and water garden enthusiasts DO NOT RELEASE aquatic plants or animals. The national Habitattitude campaign offers guidance on the humane and environmentally safe disposal of unwanted aquatic organisms.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension. For more information, visit http://www.msue.msu.edu. To contact an expert in your area, visit http://expert.msue.msu.edu, or call 888-MSUE4MI (888-678-3464).

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me at kimwillis151@gmail.com

The Lapeer area Horticulture Society is looking for new members.  There are no education or experience requirements to join; only a love of gardening is needed.  The Horticulture Society meets the third Monday of each month for socializing, networking and a brief educational presentation.  Next meeting is at Swoish’s Greenhouse, North Branch, May 19th 6:30 pm.  Everyone is invited to join.  Dues are only $15 a year.  For more information on joining or meeting locations contact Bev Kobylas at bkobylas@yahoo.com

The Lapeer Horticultural Society is having a Plant and Yard sale May 31st, from 8 am to 2 pm at 316 Davis Lake Road, Lapeer.
This yard sale will feature a variety of garden plants and interesting items for the home and yard.  Proceeds benefit the Lapeer Horticulture Society.  The sale is on the north side of Lapeer, just off M24.


The 3rd Annual Michigan Honey Festival- Saturday, July 12, 2014 10am - 5pm at  The Harvey Kern Pavilion in Frankenmuth, Michigan.

Attend educational seminars and learn all you need to start beekeeping! Purchase all your beekeeping supplies from a variety of vendors.  Lots of Michigan honey for sale. Learn how to brew honey beer and mead and attend the many cooking with honey demonstrations.   There is a children’s craft area and a demonstration garden done by Master Gardeners.  Watch a bee beard demonstration.  There will be lots of interesting products to sample and buy made from honey or bee’s wax. 

This year’s festival is all indoors, so no weather worries.  Admission is $5 for adults, children 12 and under free.  More information ? http://www.michiganhoneyfestival.com/contact.html

Invasive Plant Workday , Thursday, May 22, 2:00–4:00 pm Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford Road Dryden, MI 48428-9776

We will spend the afternoon working on removing garlic mustard. This a great opportunity for community service hours and master gardener hours. Bring gloves and water. (810) 796-3200

Wildflower Lore and Legends, Sunday, May 25, 2:00 pm Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 48428-9776

Let’s explore some strange uses and weird names of some of our most common wildflowers. (810) 796-3200  $3 for non-members.

Dahlia Tuber Sale Sat, May 24, 8am-4pm, 12am Dahlia Hill, 2809 Orchard Dr, Midland, MI.

 Dahlia bulbs for sale By Dahlia Hill Society of Midland at $2/each or 6/$10. Expert volunteers on hand. www.dahliahill.org.

10th Heavenly Hosta Sale, Sat, May 31,  9am-2pm, Sunday, June 1,  Noon-2pm –First Presbyterian Church 1432 Washtenaw Avenue, Ann Arbor, MI.

Multiple groups will be selling hostas as a fund raiser. Many varieties available and master gardeners will be on-site. http://firstpresbyterian.org/

Clarkston Perennial Plant Exchange Sat, , June 7, 8:30am, Village Parking Lot Clarkston, MI.

Sponsored by the Clarkston Farm & Garden Club. Bring well rooted, tagged perennials. www.clarkstongarden.org    248-620-2984

Master Gardener College (open to public) June 20-21, MSU, East Lansing, MI
This year’s event features exciting full day tours and hands-on workshops on Friday followed by a delicious dinner at the University Club in East Lansing. Saturday features two entertaining and educational keynote speakers, as well as eighteen exciting sessions to choose from in order to feed your mind with science-based gardening knowledge.  And, of course, there will be plenty of buying opportunities.
Key note speaker Charlie Nardozzi will speak on Foodscaping...A Growing Revolution   Almost a third of American households now do some kind of food gardening. While everyone wants  to grow their own food, many are unwilling to give up precious yard space or have their yard, perceivably, look unruly.

You do not have to be a Master Gardener to attend. Re-certified MG get a discount. There is a wide variety of pricing options for this event starting at about $65 for a single workshop to about $200.00 for the 2 day event.  Please go to http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=mgcollege14  for more information and to register.

You must pre-register. Registration fees are refundable until May 31, 2014, less a $20 cancellation fee. After May 31, refunds are no longer available.  For more information, contact Betsy Braid at 517-884-7081 or braidbet@msu.edu.

Garden Day August 2, 2014, 8 am – 4:15 pm,  Michigan State University Department of Horticulture, East Lansing Mi.


MSU’s annual garden day is on Saturday this year.  The keynote speaker is Amy Stewart, author of Wicked Plants, Flower Confidential, and The Drunken Botanist and other books.  Ms Stewart is also the concluding speaker and you can also stay for a reception after the event where she will discuss the Drunken Botanist. You can choose from a number of excellent workshops/classes, 1 morning and 1 afternoon session. Classes include Herbal housekeeping, Best Herbaceous perennials, Creative Containers, Dividing Perennials, Herbs at Home, Pruning Basics, Gardening in the Shade, Unusual Trees and Shrubs, Creative Edge, and Going Native.

Cost of the event is $85 until July 22nd , $95 after.  Lunch and free parking included. Additional $39 for evening reception.  Go to hrt.msu.edu/garden-day-2014  for class descriptions and to register.


2014 MASTER GARDENER ASSOCIATION - GENESEE COUNTY, MICHIGAN GARDEN TOUR – June 22nd 2014.

Celebrate spring by enjoying a stroll through beautiful gardens in Genesee County's east side. Each site has its own unique features. The homeowner or a Master Gardener would be delighted to answer any questions. Although each garden looks very different, all of the homeowners share the passion of watching their garden grow and expand each year. Much thought has been put into every loved plant or garden art. The gardeners believe that the garden is an expression of them. Fortunately for us, they want to share their masterpiece with us.

Please join us in touring nine outstanding gardens on Genesee County’s east side Sunday, June 22 10:00AM - 5:00PM.and visit the For-Mar Truck Farm at one of the sites. Mark your calendar for the easy self-guided tour. The total tour is 16.3 miles with easy access from I-69 to start at site #1 and I-75 to end at site #10 home. There are no rules where you start or finish, but the routemoves nicely goingfromnorth to south or south to nor

Advance tickets will be available on May 23rd at the MSU Extension office for $10.00, $2.00 for children under 12. Advance tickets will also be available on May 23rd from the following merchants:

Bordine Nursery 9100 Torrey Rd, Grand Blanc - (810) 655-5588
Jenny B’s Garden Party 9063 Clio Rd. Clio - (810) 687-7742
Piechnik Greenhouse,13172 McCumsey Road, Clio - (810) 686-9211
Walker Farms & Greenhouse 5253 Atherton Road, Burton (810) 743-0260

Tickets may also be purchased the day of the tour (Sunday, June 22rd) at any of the garden sites. Site addresses will be posted on the web page the night before the tour. The photo on the ticket cover was by a student that won the coloring contest at one of Swartz Creek’s elementary schools.
Gardens will be open for viewing on June 22 from 10A – 5P, Rain or Shine.
Visit the web site for driving directions/questions: http://GCgardentour.weebly.com/
NOTE: Gardens open only on this specific day and time. PLEASE BE CONSIDERATE!
Accommodations for persons with disabilities may be requested by calling Jim Harrow, Plant & Pest Hotline (810) 244-8548 two (2) weeks prior to the event to ensure sufficient time to make arrangements. Requests received after this date will be met when possible.



Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com