Did you get an amaryllis bulb for Christmas? They are popular gifts for people who like
gardening or houseplants. The bulbs you
get are primed and ready to sprout and bloom with just a little care. You can
discard them after blooming is finished. But if you give them some attention
after they bloom you can successfully get them to bloom again for many years.
Well cared for bulbs will get larger every year and produce even more flowers.
And if no one gave you an amaryllis this winter you may want to buy your own.
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum hybrida) sold as flowering
houseplants are actually hybrids of several species of the Hippeastrum family
and come in a variety of bloom colors, petal shapes and plant sizes. The big trumpet shaped red or red and white
blooms of the most commonly sold gift amaryllis are just the tip of the
iceberg. There are flower colors from
white to dark crimson,orange, yellows and lavenders. There are so many varieties that many people
collect amaryllis.
Amaryllis flowers are produced on a green, hollow flower
stalk with clusters of 2 or more buds.
The stalks range from about 12 inches high in miniature varieties to 2
feet tall in large varieties. Large
mature bulbs may put out several stalks at once. The flowers generally consist of a layer of 3
overlapping petals and then a second layer of 3 petals. There are some
varieties that have narrow, separated petals, (Cybister amaryllis) with
star-like blooms. There are also double flowered varieties.
Amaryllis flowers can be solid colored or streaked or with
contrasting centers. Size of flowers
ranges from about 2 inches across in miniature varieties to about 8 inches
across in large ones. The flowers
usually face outwards.
Amaryllis leaves are long and strap like. They may appear with the flower stalk or
after. There are usually 4 leaves per
bloom stalk. When the bulb goes dormant,
(more about that later), the leaves will turn yellow and fall off.
Amaryllis bulbs are oval with an elongated top, called the
neck. Bulb size ranges 6 to 13 inches or so in circumference. The bigger the bulb the more flower stalks it
produces, although miniature and star flowered varieties have naturally smaller
bulbs. The bulbs are covered with a
papery covering like many other bulbs. Over years of good care the bulbs get
larger and produce more bulbs, which can be separated for new plants.
Some common varieties
These are just a few of the hundreds of amaryllis
varieties. There are many nurseries on
line and in catalogs offering bulbs for sale.
These will be dormant bulbs primed to bloom for you in a short time and
are most often available in fall and winter.
Large single flowered varieties include ‘Ice Queen’, purest white, ‘Royal Velvet’ which is deep crimson, ‘Carmen’, rich red with an iridescent
glow, ‘Hercules’, which is rosy pink,
‘Orange Sovereign’, a deep orange, ‘Rilona’, a peachy orange, ‘Minerva’, red and white, ‘Rebecca’, a rosy pink with white stripes
that is said to be fragrant, ‘Estella’,
a lavender pink with white stripe and light fragrance, ‘Lemon Star’, a pale yellow, ‘Daphne’,
a cranberry red dappled with white, ‘Apricot
Parfait’, a pale apricot with white edges
Double flowered varieties include white or red Peacock, ‘Lady Jane’, which is a orangey streaked
color, ‘Dancing Queen’ which is red
and white, ‘Arctic Nymph’, which is a
stocky short plant with beautiful white flowers, ‘Sweet Nymph’, which is rose pink with dark pink streaks and a pale
pink edge and ‘Aphrodite’ which is
white with pink highlights.
While dwarf varieties have smaller flowers the flowers are
generally more numerous, appearing in clusters on the plant. Miniature amaryllis are about 18 inches
high. Varieties include ‘Rapido’, a crimson red, ‘Santiago’, red with a white streak
through each petal, ‘Picotee’, white
with a fine red line outlining each petal, and ‘Pretty Nymph’ which has ruffled pink petals striped with white.
Star flowered varieties include ‘Cybister Emerald’, which is greenish white with red streaks, ‘Cybister Lapaz’ which has 3 maroon
petals and 3 white, ‘Sumatra’ which
is crimson red, ‘Chico’ which has an
extreme spidery form of burgundy red and green, and ‘Rosado’, which is rosy pink with white markings.
Planting the bulb
If you were given a gift Amaryllis bulb or bulbs they
probably came with instructions but if not, here’s how to plant them. Choose a good houseplant planting medium
(soil) for potting. The pot for the bulb
should be just an inch or so bigger than the bulb in diameter as amaryllis
likes to be pot bound. It doesn’t have
to be very deep- just a couple inches longer than the bulbs- but it must drain
well. Several bulbs can be planted in
one pot with just an inch between them.
Put a little planting medium on the bottom of the pot and
then set the bulbs in it. The top of the
bulb neck should be about at the level of the pot rim. Now fill in with potting soil leaving the
neck of the bulb and about a third of the bulb itself exposed. If planted too deeply amaryllis won’t
bloom. Do not completely cover the
bulb.
Now water the bulb and set it in a brightly lit, warm
place. It should begin to show a green
bud at the bud neck, sometimes more than one, in one to two weeks. In fact some gift bulbs you receive may
already be sprouting. Sometimes the
flower stalk develops first and the leaves later, other times leaves may begin
emerging with the flower stalk. Every
few days rotate the pot so the flower stalk doesn’t lean toward the light
source.
Just a note on those
bulbs that come pre-planted in a decorative pot. If your amaryllis bulb came with its own pot
make sure the pot has drainage or that the drainage holes aren’t covered by
decorative foil. If the “pot” is a
cardboard one you’ll probably want to put your bulb in a nicer, longer lasting
pot. When these plants finish blooming
it’s probably best to repot the plant in fresh, quality potting medium.
Amaryllis will bloom in a container with rocks and an inch
or so of water like narcissus bulbs. However when they bloom like this they are
very hard to get to re-bloom in the future, even if they are potted after
blooming. These bulbs are generally discarded after blooming. If you want to keep your amaryllis bulb for
future blooming pot it in a good potting medium when you receive it.
Care during bloom
The flower stalks grow rapidly and bloom may begin in just 5
weeks from bud emergence. Keep the pot
moist but not too wet as the flower stalks develop. Don’t fertilize at this time. Amaryllis likes temperatures of 65-75 degrees
F for blooming. If the plant gets too
cold it may drop the buds. Bright light
but not direct sunlight is needed at this time. If the plant gets too warm –
such as by a heat vent- it may also drop its buds. Don’t touch the buds and be
careful not to bruise them or knock them off when moving the plant. Buds will
open in succession and each flower may last several days. A pot with several bloom stalks may be in bloom
for weeks.
Care after bloom
Cut off the flower stalks when blooming has finished. The leaves must remain in strong light and
the pot kept watered for a few months so the plant can store nutrients to make
new flower buds. Generally a plant blooming at Christmas or shortly after needs
to be in a sunny window or under grow lights until you can put it outside. You
should fertilize at this time with a blooming plant, water soluble fertilizer
every other week to encourage the plant to produce more flowers. Several new
leaves may be produced.
After the last frost in your area you can move the plant
outside. This is one of the best ways to
get the plant to re-bloom. Put the plant
in a shady location, letting it acclimate and move it gradually into full sun
over two weeks. Most people sink the pot
into the ground but some plant the bulb directly into the ground. Keep it watered through the summer. Make sure
you mark the pot or location so that you’ll know where the bulb is when the
plant goes dormant.
Amaryllis needs temperatures of about 55 degrees or slightly
less for about 8 weeks to induce bud formation.
If the plant summered outside it will probably begin natural dormancy in
the fall. Let the bulbs stay outside through early cool weather, even light
frost. When temperatures fall below 45
regularly bring it inside. It may have lost its leaves or most of them at this
point. If the plant hasn’t been outside
you may want to move it to a cool dimly lit place such as a basement and stop
watering it to induce dormancy.
When all the leaves have fallen the amaryllis has gone
dormant. Stop watering the plant. The
plants need a dormant period to rest before blooming again. It
doesn’t need light at this time.
After a few months (10-12 weeks minimum) of storage the
amaryllis bulb can be brought into bloom again by watering the pot lightly and
putting it into bright light and warm conditions. Be careful and don’t
overwater the amaryllis when it’s just coming out of dormancy. If you want to
re-pot the bulb at this time you can do so.
Remember that for best bloom the pot shouldn’t be much bigger than the
bulbs.
If you discover small bulblets when repotting you can move
them to separate pots. It takes a couple
years before they will bloom but they need the same period of growth and rest
that blooming size bulbs get. Many
people leave the small bulbs to form large clumps in a pot with many flowering
stalks.
The bulbs should begin showing green buds within a couple of
weeks after their rest. It will take 5-8 weeks from coming out of dormancy to
bloom. Many people try to re-bloom the amaryllis near the Christmas holidays
although they will bloom at other times. You’ll need to get the bulbs in a
dormant stage by early September for a chance at Christmas bloom. The blooms will still be welcome later in the
winter and it’s easier to aim for a January- February bloom time.
Amaryllis seldom have disease or insect problems in
homes. The biggest problem is
over
Amaryllis can brighten the winter and could become a plant
collectors dream with the many varieties to explore. Why not plant one this winter?
Use a heavy pot to keep it from tipping over when the flower stem is tall.
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