Tuesday, October 25, 2016

October 25, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

   © Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.


Hi Gardeners

Want these? Plant now.
It was down to freezing last night and the frost was heavy this morning but the hose to the barn still ran when I got out there.  The farmers are taking off the corn and soybeans and the grain trucks are rumbling down the road.  Gizmo and I took a walk and noted all the deer tracks crossing the road to the harvested corn field.  There’s usually lots of spilled grain.  As little as he is Gizmo tracks deer with gusto.

I am still seeing buzzards, when they leave I know winter is really here.  Blue Jays are really numerous this year.  I watch them at the feeders filling their crops with sunflower seed and flying off.  They can empty a feeder quickly.  I saw a Bald Eagle yesterday soaring around.  I don’t know if he was on his way south or looking to winter nearby.

I still have a few things in bloom outside, mums, sedum, some annuals but I expect that will end soon. This year I have had repeat bloom on irises and clematis and the roses are blooming nicely again.  I do have many things in bloom inside, begonias, cannas, and geraniums on the porch, hibiscus, mandevilla, peace lily, pomegranate, streptocarpus and bouvardia in the main house. I brought the begonia “Sparks Will Fly”, one of the new hybrids, inside and it’s still blooming too.  

I have the last of my bulbs here now to be planted.  Last week I planted some 250 bulbs, the week before about 200.  There are 20 lilies of various types, some eremurus and corydalis that came yesterday left to be planted.  I am hoping the rains hold off tomorrow so I can get it done.  If you haven’t bought and planted bulbs yet now’s the time.  Many companies are having clearance sales.  You can plant bulbs up until the ground freezes although it is better to get them in a little earlier.

It can be really interesting fitting those last few bulbs into the flower beds.  I resort to looking at pictures of the beds from last spring to see where bare spots might be and hoping my planting notations from this fall will help me keep from planting these last bulbs on top of earlier planted ones.  But it will be wonderful next spring and summer to see all the new varieties.
Have a great Halloween


Help Save the Venus Flytrap

The Venus Flytrap, (Dionaea muscipula), is a unique plant even among the small subset of carnivorous plants.  The “snap trap” method of capturing insects evolved only once in the history of life on earth and is currently shared by only one other genus of related plants.  The Venus Flytrap itself is native only to the coastal bogs of North and South Carolina, USA, specifically within 60 miles of Wilmington, North Carolina. (There are small naturalized populations in Florida and in Washington State.)  Unfortunately the Venus Flytraps populations are less than 95% of what they once were.

The Venus Flytrap amazes laypeople and scientists alike because it can snap shut its leafy traps in about 1/10th of a second.  But it’s not just the swift movement that intrigues scientists; it’s the extremely complicated system of triggering that movement and initiating digestion of prey that keeps scientists studying it.  And even though it’s been studied for hundreds of years now, we are still not absolutely sure how the whole process works.

Venus Flytraps evolved from plants that trapped small insects with sticky pads and tentacles and then slowly dissolved them and absorbed the nutrients.  Carnivorous plants generally grow in nutrient poor areas and need the nutrients from animals to supply them with nitrogen and phosphorus.

While the name suggests it prefers flies, research shows that ants, beetles and spiders, are the biggest part of the Venus Flytraps natural diet.  Flying insects comprise only about 5% of the plants diet.  When a beetle walks across the fleshy red pads of a Venus Flytrap leaf it may encounter one of the 3 “trigger” hairs on the leaf.  One touch of a hair will not trigger the trap but if the beetle touches two hairs or one hair twice within a few seconds the trap will snap closed. Requiring two touches keeps the plant from wasting energy on specks of dust or raindrops. The mechanisms of how the trap is closed so quickly are still being studied with several theories on the matter.

Along the edge of the Venus Flytrap leaf are tooth like projections that interlock along the edge, loosely at first.  Small insects may be able to squeeze through those teeth and if they do the trap will reopen in about a day. If the insect is larger and struggles while it touches hairs 5 times the digestive process will be triggered. The edges of the leaf will hermetically seal, smothering the insect and the now stomach-like pouch will fill with digestive fluids produced by glands along the leaf.  These digestive fluids are thought to have evolved from jasmonic acid, which many plants used as a defensive against insects eating them.

Venus Fly traps can digest an insect of about half the size of their leaf pads, smaller leaves “eat” smaller insects.  The process can take a week.  The plant will keep producing digestive fluids until it can no longer “taste” proteins then the digestive process ceases and the trap will open allowing the chitin shell of its prey to blow off.  Each trap is only good for 3-4 insect meals then the leaf will die and the plant will replace it. 

The green part of Venus Flytraps leaves and stems does actually contain chlorophyll and they produce sugars from photosynthesis just like other plants.  They have a root system but it mainly functions to absorb water and anchor the plant because minerals and other nutrients are scarce in its boggy environment.

Venus Flytaps are subtropical and while they don’t survive temps below 20 degrees they do need a winter rest period of about 3 months. This requires cooler temperatures with nights around 45 degrees and less daylight.  Most of the leaves are shed in the winter and the plant puts out small new leaves in the spring which enlarge as the season warms up.  The limit of leaves/traps that a plant has at any time is seven.  When more leaves are seen it means the plant is producing “daughter” plants.

Venus Flytrap flower.  Wikimedia commons.
In the summer Venus Flytraps put out a long flower stalk with several white flowers.  The flowers turn into clusters of round black seeds.  Plants reproduce from seeds, which can take 5-6 years to produce a mature plant and they reproduce by clonal spread- producing new plants along the rhizomous root.  In cultivation they are pretty easily reproduced by tissue culture.  Several cultivars have been developed from natural mutations.

Once numerous, it is estimated that only about 33,000 Venus Flytraps remain in their native habitat in several scattered locations.  Many of these locations are on government or Nature Conservancy property but some populations remain vulnerable. A viable population should consist of at least a thousand individuals, and it’s thought that only 9 such populations remain.  Populations have dwindled because of habitat destruction, climate change and over “harvesting” of the plants from the wild.

Because of its unusual habits the Venus Flytrap is highly sought after as a houseplant. It’s thought that there are more Venus Flytraps in homes than in the wild.  Often the plants offered for sale are “harvested” from the wild.  The sad thing is that most of the plants purchased have short life spans in homes because people do not get correct information on caring for them, or if they do, they lose interest and don’t follow the directions.

What you can do to help preserve Venus Flytraps in the wild

In 2014 North Carolina listed the Venus Flytrap as protected in the state and instituted some large fines for collecting plants from the wild or possessing wild collected plants.  However a loophole remains that allows plants to be collected on your own property or property where you have permission to collect and those plants can be legally sold.  Unscrupulous dealers are still selling wild collected plants, claiming that they buy them from people collecting on their own property. This is doubtful but it’s hard to monitor the bog areas where the plants grow. These are often the Venus Flytraps you see offered in plastic domed pots in grocery stores.

The University of Wisconsin-Madison has instituted an online petition to expedite the listing of the Venus Flytrap on the Federal Endangered species list. It was being considered, and is now a “species of concern” but normally the process takes a lot of years and a smaller, more critical population.  Listing it as a Federally Endangered species now will limit Venus Flytrap sales to plants that can be verified as grown in cultivation and will also allow new areas where the plants are still growing in the wild to receive Federal protection.  You can sign this petition and read the whole petition letter at;

The petition has already been signed by a number of conservation groups and botanists as well as people like you and me.  Because the Venus Flytrap is so unique and native to such a small area I urge you to add your name to the petition.  It is truly a marvel of evolution and deserves special protection.

There are other things you can do.  If you purchase a Venus Flytrap plant make sure it’s from cultivated stock.  The plant is tissue propagated easily and those plants are about equal in price to wild collected plants.  They are also started from divisions and seed.  Named cultivars are always from cultivated plants.  Good nurseries will say where their stock comes from. Here are a few sources of cultivated plants.

Venus Flytrap seeds.  Wikimedia commons
There are no scientifically proven herbal/medical uses for Venus Flytrap although some herbals still mention it.  Do not use endangered species such as Venus Flytrap for herbal remedies.  There is a commercial concoction named "Carnivora", which is promoted to cure cancer but the American Cancer Society has said it has no value for cancer patients.  Please don’t buy this product or others using Venus Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula).  These products are produced from wild collected plants.

In case you want your own Venus Flytrap

If you are intrigued by Venus Flytraps and buy yours from a reputable dealer who cultivates the plants in “captivity” here are some tips for growing them.  They are not easy plants to grow so think before you buy.

Venus Flytraps don’t eat dead bugs, and they don’t trap small insects like fruit flies in the house. They cannot be fed things like hamburger.  Constantly triggering the traps as children are prone to do, weakens the plant and eventually kills it. While the plant will survive for a while without live feeding, it eventually suffers from nutrient deficiencies. 

Briefly, Venus Flytraps in cultivation require bright light-full sun is preferred but artificial lights a few inches above the plants will work.  They must be potted in a deep pot- 5-6 inches deep.  The preferred potting medium is peat or sphagnum moss mixed with perlite.  No potting soil or any medium mixed with fertilizer should be used.  No fertilizer is ever used- it will quickly kill the plants.

Plants must be watered with clean rain water or distilled water.  Minerals or chemicals in water quickly kill them.  The plant likes to have 2/3 of the root system in very damp or submerged conditions but the upper third of the roots must not be submerged or kept too wet. This is usually accomplished by setting the pot in a bowl or other container so water covers 2/3 of the pot length.

In spring and summer temperatures should be warm but in winter the plants need a dormant period where temperatures fall to about 45 degrees F at night.  Homes that set night temps to about 55F and keep day temps below 70 degrees F are usually fine though.  Plants should be brought inside before the first frost and taken out after the last frost.

Flower stalks should be cut off cultivated plants.  Dead leaves will occur in fall and periodically through the growing season.  They should only be cut when they are completely black and dead as the plants reabsorb the nutrients in them.

If plants are outside they will generally trap their own insects.  Inside live beetles, spiders, large flies or small crickets or grasshoppers can be placed on leaves. Some people use dead insects and move them around with a toothpick or something to stimulate the trap closing.  Never use cold frozen insects.  Feeding once or twice a month is probably good enough in the growing season but once a week is better.  In winter they can go a month or two without eating. If you can’t handle insects the Venus Flytrap isn’t for you.


Pumpkins and Jack O Lanterns

Nothing says autumn like the sight of a pumpkin or the smell of pumpkin pie. When English settlers came to the New World they found Native Americans growing a variety of pumpkins and squash. Pumpkins were easy to grow and stored well so they were a favorite of pioneers.  In the fall many acres of pumpkins can still be seen across the land. Today most of the pumpkins you see in the fields are for fall decorations and Jack- O -Lanterns, although Americans still like their pumpkin pie.


Early pumpkins did not look like the smooth, bright orange fruits piled outside every store in the fall. They were flatter and heavily ridged. The color was more of a pinkish orange or red. If you look at the illustrations in an early copy of Cinderella, you can get an idea of what early pumpkins looked like. True pumpkins and winter squash are often very similar and can cross breed. The astoundingly huge pumpkins grown for competition are really squash. They are generally large blobs of pale yellow instead of the round orange globes favored for seasonal decorations. A winning pumpkin may weigh over 1500 pounds.

There’s been a fuss on TV and other media the last few weeks about squash being substituted for “real” pumpkin in canned and frozen products.  The truth is this has been going on for some time.  Some winter squash and pumpkins are nearly identical genetically and identical in flavor. Many farms growing “pumpkins” for canning are actually growing squash.  And it’s ok- really.

Before they even began growing corn Native Americans were growing pumpkins, both for storage vessels and for food.  Native peoples in the more northern areas of the continent tended to grow what became modern pumpkins and in western and more southern areas of the continent they grew plants that were closer to the squash and gourds that we know today.  However squash, gourds and pumpkins are closely related and can interbreed and in early history there was probably a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes.  The earliest pumpkins were shaped more like gourds, with a “handle” or were pear shaped.  They came in a variety of colors.  The skin was tough and there was less fleshy matter than there is in modern pumpkins.

Native Americans used every part of a pumpkin.  They were hollowed out, dried and used to hold seeds and other foods, even to carry water.  Some were elaborately decorated.  Pumpkins were used in soups and stews. The flesh of pumpkins was cut into strips and dried over open fires for storage.  Dried pumpkin could be pounded into a form of flour.  Young green pumpkins were eaten like we eat zucchini. Seeds were dried and used for food and medicine.  Pumpkin flowers were also eaten.  Even the leaves were used in some areas as a cooked green.

Native Americans introduced pumpkins and squash to early European settlers and they became an important winter food staple.  A common way to prepare pumpkin was to open the top and fill the cavity with milk, and eggs and sugar if available and then bury the pumpkin in the coals of the fire to cook.  The inside turned to custard like consistency which was scooped out and eaten.  Later when there was wheat to make flour, this pumpkin custard turned into pumpkin pies.  Pumpkins were also used in soups and as a roasted vegetable. Beer was even made from pumpkins, usually sweetened and flavored with maple sugar or syrup.  

It is said that Columbus brought pumpkin seeds to Europe, that may or may not be true but some early explorer certainly did introduce pumpkins and squash to Europe.  At first pumpkins were mainly used for animal food.  Somehow, in Europe pumpkins became entwined with the supernatural and many legends and fairytales include pumpkins.

Pumpkins are now grown and eaten in most areas of the world, although North America still grows far more pumpkins than any other country.  The top pumpkin producing state is Illinois, where the factory that produces Libby canned pumpkin is located in Morton.  Close to 2 billion pounds of pumpkins are produced in the US each year.

In some parts of Europe oil is pressed from pumpkin seeds and used for cooking.  Pumpkin seed oil is a reddish green and strongly flavored, but favored for some ethnic cuisines.  Pumpkin seeds are called pepitas and are a popular healthy snack in many countries.  Varieties of pumpkins whose seeds have no hulls are often grown for this purpose but all pumpkin seeds can be roasted and eaten.

Roasting pumpkin seeds

Sure they make nice decorations but pumpkins have seeds which make an excellent tasty and nutritious snack. Clean the seeds out of one or more pumpkins and try to remove as much of the orange “goop” as possible.  Place the seeds in a colander and wash with cold water. 

Drain and spread the seeds on a foil covered cookie sheet that has been sprayed with cooking spray. Lightly spray the seeds with cooking spray or toss with a bit of olive oil,  and salt to your taste.  Put the cookie sheets in an oven set at 325 degrees and roast for about 20 minutes.  Stir occasionally and keep checking on them, don’t let them get too brown.  After roasting they can be stored in sealed containers.


For spicy pumpkin seeds try this recipe.  Mix 1 ½ tablespoons butter, ½  teaspoon seasoned salt, 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder and 2 teaspoons of Worchester sauce in a bowl and toss the seeds in it before roasting.  It will coat 2-3 cups of seeds.

Garlic salt, red pepper, parmesan cheese, and cinnamon are all good seasonings to try on pumpkin seeds.  There are various flavored popcorn seasonings on the market, caramel, cheddar, ranch and so on, that can be sprinkled on the pumpkin seeds also.

Pumpkin medicinal uses

Pumpkin seeds have long been used to get rid of intestinal worms like pin worms and tapeworms and there is some scientific evidence suggesting they do kill internal parasites.  In this use the raw seeds are hulled and eaten or made into a paste with honey and eaten.

Pumpkin seeds have long been a traditional way to treat prostate swelling and inflammation and medical research does support this claim.  Raw or roasted seeds are eaten for this use.  Pumpkin seed oil is also being evaluated for this use. Pumpkin seeds are also a mild diuretic and are used in traditional medicine to treat kidney and bladder problems.

Traditional medicine has used pumpkin extracts to lower blood sugar and recent studies have found that the extract does increase blood insulin levels.  Also pumpkin extracts, pumpkin seed oil and pumpkin seeds are being studied in the treatment of several forms of cancer.  They are high in antioxidants.  Several studies have shown that those who eat pumpkin seeds frequently have lower incidences of breast, prostate, lung, gastric and colorectal cancer.   

The leaves of pumpkins can be steeped in hot water and used for fevers.  In Eastern medicine pumpkin is used for mental problems.  Recent research has shown that pumpkin seeds have high levels of tryptophan, which can relieve depression.

Pumpkin has a lot of fiber and has long been used as a safe, gentle laxative.

A puree of pumpkin pulp soothes and softens skin and is used for pimples and minor skin irritations.

Peter pumpkin eater would love these recipes!

Here are some pumpkin recipes for those of you who would rather eat pumpkin than carve it.  To prepare raw pumpkin for use in a recipe: wash the outside of a pumpkin and clean out the seeds and “goop” inside.  Cut the pumpkin in chunks. Scrape any stringy matter off.  Place the pumpkin chunks on their side and slice off the rind (skin).  Rinse well under running water.  Place the chunks in a pan and cover with water. Cover the pan and simmer until the pumpkin is soft.  Drain in colander, and then mash the pumpkin smooth. Freeze what you don’t use.

You can also buy canned pumpkin or use some you have canned. Buy plain canned pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filling for these recipes.  If a recipe calls for less than a full can of pumpkin you can freeze the remainder.

Pumpkin is high in amino acids and vitamins B, C, D, E and K.  It also contains minerals like calcium, copper, potassium and phosphorus.  Pumpkin contains healthy antioxidants and flavonoid compounds such as carotenes.   It’s low in fat and proteins but high in carbohydrates. It has lots of dietary fiber.  Even the spices used to flavor pumpkin dishes are great for your health.

Pumpkin Fudge Bars
Cookie Base:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup quick or old-fashioned oats
3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup flaked coconut
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
3/4 cup butter, softened
Fudge top:
2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup (5 fl.-oz. can) evaporated Milk
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup canned pumpkin (not pie filling)
1 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups miniature marshmallows
1 & 2/3 cups (11-oz. pkg.) Butterscotch flavored morsels
3/4 cup chopped walnuts
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

First make the cookie base.  Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.  Line a 15 x 10 or equivalent pan with foil. 
 
Mix all the cookie ingredients except the butter in a bowl until well blended.  Cut in the butter until a crumbly mixture forms.  Pat the mixture down evenly over the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake until slightly brown, about 15 minutes.  Let cool.

Now make the fudge part.  Combine the butter, evaporated milk, sugar, pumpkin, pumpkin pie spice and salt in medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, over medium heat. Boil, and stir constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Stir in the marshmallows, butterscotch morsels and vanilla with ½ cup of the nuts.  Stir until the marshmallows melt and the mixture is well blended.  Pour the fudge mix over the cookie base and refrigerate until firm.  Cut into bars.  Makes about 48 bars.

Pumpkin Dip

Here’s a sweet dip you can serve in a hollowed out pumpkin!  Use the dip with cookies, apple wedges, crackers or even veggies.

1 can, (15 oz. or 2 cups) pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling)
1 pkg.  (3.4 oz.) JELL-O Vanilla Flavor Instant Pudding (you can use the new pumpkin spice flavor too or use sugar free vanilla instant pudding)
1 tsp.  pumpkin pie spice
1 tub (8 oz.) COOL WHIP Whipped Topping, thawed

Blend all the ingredients except the cool whip in a large bowl with electric mixer.  Blend in the cool whip by hand.  Refrigerate one hour to thicken.  Serve cold.

Pumpkin and apple soup
NorthWest EDU

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 firm apples, peeled and diced
1 small yellow onion, peeled and finely diced
6 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup apple cider
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon thyme
2 cans (15 oz. each or 4 cups) pumpkin puree (not pie filling)
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream

Put the olive oil in a large pot over low heat.  Add the onions and apples, cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and golden.

Pour in the stock, cider, pepper and thyme.  Bring to a boil, boil 1 minute.  Pour in the pumpkin puree and use a whisk or immersion blender to blend until smooth.

Add the cream and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved.  Turn down heat to simmer and simmer about 10 minutes.  Makes about 6 servings.

Carving the perfect pumpkin

Long before pumpkins were turned into scary decorations, Europeans were hollowing out turnips and gourds as candle holders for “Hallows” Eve.    When the tradition was carried to the new world it was found that pumpkins make an excellent substitute for turnips.   If you are going to carve a pumpkin for Halloween this year here are some tips.

Larger pumpkins are easier to clean out and you want a pumpkin with a sturdy stem for a handle.  Pumpkins with longer stems tend to last longer.  Lighter colored pumpkins are said to be easier to carve but they will not last as long.  Pumpkins don’t change color after they are picked so whatever color your pumpkin is when you buy or pick it, that’s the color it will be when you carve it.  Don’t carve your pumpkin too long before you want to display it.  Keep it outside in the shade or in a cool place until you do carve it.  Pumpkins should be kept from freezing.  They can turn to mush if they freeze solid.

Wash the outside just before beginning.  Carefully cut a round area around the stem.  It should be large enough to get your hand inside.  The hole can’t be enlarged after you remove the top because the lid will not fit when you are done.  If the top does tend to fall inside, add a small piece of cardboard to the back of the lid’s rim held in place with a toothpick.  This will wedge it in place.

Clean off the underside of the “top” and set it aside.   After cleaning out the “guts” (save the seeds), scrape the “meat” away down to about one inch thick.   A kitchen spoon makes a good cleaning and scraping utensil.  Slicing off a spot on the outside of the bottom may make the pumpkin sit level. 

You can draw your proposed cuts on the pumpkin with a marker.  Some people use patterns that you can buy in craft stores to trace a face on the pumpkin.  Use your imagination and be creative.  Instead of a face you can carve a scene or a series of stars or other small openings that will glow when lit from inside.  Your name or address could also be carved into the pumpkin.

Once you have decided what to carve use a serrated pumpkin carving knife (sold in most stores that carry Halloween decorations), or use a serrated steak knife or any sharp kitchen knife.  Be careful that you don’t add real blood to the scary face by cutting yourself.  Parents may want to let kids draw a face or design and then cut it out for them.

After cleaning and carving, soak the pumpkin in a mix of 1 teaspoon of bleach to a gallon of water for a few minutes.  Pat dry inside and out, or dry carefully with a hair dryer, and then coat your carving cuts with a thin layer of petroleum jelly.   

Options to carving

Some people opt to paint the pumpkin instead of carve it.  Most acrylic craft paints will work and are non-toxic.  The pumpkin could be rinsed off after Halloween and used to make pie.

Black duct tape can be used to tape a face on the pumpkin.  If you can’t find black duct tape you can color regular tape with black marker.  Cut the tape into shapes that make a scary or happy face and apply to a dry pumpkin.  Note: electrical tape won’t stick to pumpkins.

Another alternative to carving a pumpkin is to pin things like buttons, felt shapes, flowers or seed pods to the pumpkin.  You can still find straight pins in the sewing notions section of stores and toothpicks can even be used.  Kids enjoy this sort of pumpkin decorating almost as much as carving one and there is much less mess.

Lighting your carved creation

Using a battery powered light instead of a candle makes the Jack O Lantern last longer. Small twinkling Christmas lights can be stuffed inside, a battery powered string works great.  If you do use a candle, you can coat the inside of the lid with cinnamon, cloves or other spices for a delightfully scented pumpkin. 

Solar lit Jack O Lantern
Want a new, environmentally friendly and safe way to light up your Jack O Lantern?  Use solar lights. Solar lights use no electricity, and are perfectly safe, they won’t start fires or burn anything and because there is no heat with the light the pumpkin stays fresh longer.  They turn on automatically when it’s dark and most solar lights will last many hours after a sunny day and will even come on for a while after a not so sunny day. And they can be reused year after year.

The simple inexpensive stake type solar light used to light paths make an excellent pumpkin light.  Or you can buy strands of tiny solar lights or solar flood lights that have a panel you place in the sun and the lights can be 6-10 feet away.  Wind the string type lights around a glass jar you insert in the pumpkin or just stuff them inside.

For the stake type of light, measure the top, light collecting part of your solar light and cut the hole in the pumpkin so the light will fit snugly inside the hole with just the top exposed.  (You’ll need to clean out the pumpkin “guts” first before you fit the light inside.)  If you can’t get your hands inside to clean the pumpkin out with a small hole, you can make the hole bigger, and then use wood skewers or stiff wire across the opening to support the light.  Or find a glass jar that supports the stake light with the light top sticking just above the opening in the pumpkin. On a taller pumpkin the light can be left on its stake but for shorter pumpkins you may have to remove the stake from the light.  Carve a face in your pumpkin as usual.

The pumpkin must be sitting in the sun during the day so the solar panel can collect light energy.  And most solar stake type lights can’t be entirely inside the pumpkin at night.  The sensor turns the light on when it’s dark, so they do come on as darkness falls but they turn off quickly because the light in an enclosed space causes the sensor to turn the light off.  The sensor part of the light must be outside the pumpkin, in the dark, at night.  Using a string of lights or flood light with a separate collecting panel you place a distance from the pumpkin works well.

Uses for left over pumpkins

Other than Halloween decorations pumpkins make great seasonal décor inside or out.  Uncut pumpkins will last a long time if they don’t freeze or get too hot.  Different colors and shapes of pumpkins can be grouped together, maybe on a straw bale or in a wicker basket. 

A pumpkin can be hollowed out to hold a glass or metal container in which a mum or dry floral arrangement could be placed. It could also be filled with dry corn to hold things like cattails, turkey feathers and dried grasses.  Inside as a table decoration, small green plants or other flowers could be inserted.   Halloween candy or other treats can be served from a pumpkin lined with a plastic bowl.  Votive candles can be placed inside small pumpkins for table tops. Don’t carve a scary face on these table toppers; instead carve a scene or random shapes into the pumpkin. White pumpkins can be coated with glitter for a different look. 

Left over pumpkins can become great food for wildlife and livestock.  Chickens love pumpkins and placing a whole one in the coop is great for relieving boredom while providing a healthy treat.  Cows, goats, sheep, pigs and even horses love pumpkins but introduce them in small amounts so you don’t make the animals sick. 

Split a pumpkin in half and leave the halves near your bird feeder.  Many birds enjoy the seeds as well as the flesh of the pumpkin.  Deer love pumpkins and they can be used in bait piles.

Of course pumpkins make great people food too.  Last week’s newsletter had canning and preserving directions.

If you have no animals to feed and no longer need harvest decorations you can compost the pumpkins.  But be careful, if they still have seeds inside and you toss them in the flower bed, on the lawn or compost pile, you may get pumpkin vines growing there next year!

Preserving and drying flowers

While flowers can be dried at any time of the year, gardeners usually start to think of dried flower arrangements in the fall, when they know that winter is soon going to put an end to fresh bouquets from the garden.  In autumn there is a wealth of flowers and foliage that can simply be gathered from the wild and allowed to air dry.  But if you truly enjoy working with dried flower crafts you’ll want to extend the drying season to spring and summer too.

There are three major ways to dry flowers, air drying, borax-cornmeal, and glycerin.  Some flowers dry best with one method, others can be dried in many ways and some flowers don’t dry well at all.  Some seed pods and dried flowers can be gathered from nature already dried.  Fall is a great time to keep your eye open for these treasures.  Nuts and pinecones and certain berries can also be used in dried arrangements.

For any method of drying choose newly opened flowers, (and maybe some buds) after the dew has dried on a sunny day.  Examine collected flowers and foliage carefully for any insects they may be hiding. Look for flowers without insect damage or disease spots. Make sure you are ready to dry the flowers before picking them; they won’t dry well if you keep them in vase of water for days or allow them to wilt.

Flowers that generally don’t do well in any form of drying are poppies, morning glory, lilies, tulips, and fruit tree blossoms.

Air drying

To air dry flowers you need a warm, dry dark location.  Sunny areas will bleach out the flowers colors.  An attic, warm closet, unused shed or even the trunk of a car can be used.  You can also enclose flowers to be dried in brown grocery bags and place them in a cars interior that is sitting in the sun.  (This works great for culinary herbs too.)
Statice air dries well

Flowers that air dry well are small, airy types and those with a single row of petals.  Baby’s breath, everlastings, wild asters, statice, sages, salvias, coral bells, lavender, amaranths, strawflowers, larkspur, yarrow, Bells of Ireland, heather, Russian sage, and candytuft are examples.  The seed pods of money plant, Japanese lanterns, milkweeds, teasel, Queen Annes Lace, hydrangeas, clematis, and cattails as well as all kinds of ornamental and wild grasses can be air dried.  Phragmites, which grows in many Michigan ditches, has feathery seed heads similar to pampas grass that dry well.

Bundle small flowers like statice and everlastings in groups of 10-15 stems secured with a rubber band and hang upside down in your drying area.  Larger seed pods like hydrangeas and grasses can be stood in jars or cans filled with dry white rice, making sure they are not too crowded for good air flow.  It will take 3 days to 2 weeks for most flowers and seed pods to dry.  A fan set to blow a gentle stream of air through the room can aid drying.

Borax and cornmeal drying

Flowers that have thicker petals or layers of petals can be dried in a mixture of cornmeal and borax.  Borax can often be found in the laundry section of stores, or in a hardware store.  Use white cornmeal for best results.  Mix equal amounts of cornmeal and borax and for every 4 cups of the mix add 3 tablespoons of non-iodized salt.  Stir this all together well.  After use the mixture should be discarded where birds and pets won’t eat it.  Don’t add it to the compost pile.

Flowers suitable to dry this way include, asters, daisies, sages, delphinium, marigolds, roses, pansies, violas, violets, snapdragons, stock, sweet william, zinnias, dahlias, mums, dianthus, diascia, carnations, gerbera daisies, Echinacea, verbena, cosmos, calendula, and peonies.  Varieties of flowers like roses and dahlias with fewer rows of petals dry better than very full doubled varieties.  When flowers dry in borax they tend to darken.  Deep reds and blues may turn out almost black.  White flowers may turn yellow or tan.

In addition to flowers, foliage with thin leaves can also be dried in borax or silica.  Things like autumn olive, Russian olive, sprays of rose leaves, lilac leaves, purple leaved plums, coleus, rex begonia, weigelia, long grass leaves, and other thin leaved plants can add to arrangements. Thick waxy leaves will not dry well.

You need shallow boxes or trays which will hold just enough of the mix to totally cover the flowers.  Remove all leaves from the flower stem and cut stems to about 6 inches. Place a small amount of the mix on the bottom of the tray and arrange flowers so they do not touch. Flowers can face down or if spike types, be laid on their sides.  Gently sift more mixture over the flowers until they are totally covered, it is desirable for the mix to sift between flower petal layers.  Stems can stick out of the mixture.  Place trays in a dry, warm, dark location.  Do not cover trays.  It will take about 3 weeks for the flowers to dry.  Remove flowers from the borax mixture by brushing it off the flowers gently.

Silica drying

Flowers can be dried in silica beads in the same way as flowers dried in borax.  They will keep their colors better, although they do darken a little, dry in about a week and the silica beads can be re-used.  Silica gel beads can be found in craft stores.  The same flowers that are good for borax drying work well with silica and some that don’t dry in borax will do so in silica,  you can try almost any flower to see what happens.

Flowers that are dried in silica generally need the stems removed first.  Wires are inserted to replace the stems.  In flowers with thin backs a piece of floral wire is poked from the back through the flower, a small hook is bent in it and the wire pulled down until the hook is hidden in the flower.  In flowers with thick backs the wire can be poked sideways through the back of the flower, and then bent downward. 

The containers for drying flowers in silica must have tight fitting lids to keep air out.  Plastic storage containers or coffee cans with snap on lids can be used.  The wire stems can be bent double to make the lids fit.  (If the wires aren’t long enough for arranging dried flowers an additional wire can be taped on later).  Arrange the flowers and add the silica beads as described for borax drying.

When the silica beads turn pinkish they need to be dried in an oven at 250 degrees in a shallow layer.  In about an hour the silica beds will be clear blue again and ready for re-use. Flowers in silica gel can also be dried in the microwave- without wires of course.  It will only take 1-3 minutes but the stem-less flowers can be tricky to arrange.  Keep a close eye on them so they don’t start a fire.

Storage

Keep dried flowers in zip-closed bags, stapled closed paper bags, or storage containers in a dark, dry place.  Make sure that insects and rodents can’t get to them.  Use them within a year.  Dried flowers can be sprayed with hairspray or clear craft coatings to keep them looking nice longer.

Your finished arrangements won’t keep forever without getting dusty and tired looking.  Make new arrangements when they start to look faded and dingy.  During the long winter your home will still be graced by flowers.

Nature off to sleep, bright clothes in a heap
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes, free items and sales
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com     Phone 810-664-8912

For sale Muscovy ducklings, black laced, about 4 months old, you must buy at least 2, unless you have other ducks.  $5 each. Message me at kimwillis151@gmail.com for more info. Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks.  They do not quack- and are very quiet.  I also have 3 and 4 year old hens for sale, a variety of breeds.  Some are still laying.  $3.00 each

I have 5-6 large size, young roosters I will give away free.  They are Rhode Island Red and some are a cross of Australorp and “Easter egg” chickens.  Shoot me an email for more information Kimwillis151@gmail.com 

Fundamentals of Growing & Caring for Dahlias, Friday, Oct 28, 2016, 10am, Meadow Brook Hall, 350, Mansion Dr., Rochester, MI

Dr. Keith Berven will talk about growing dahlias.  Sponsored by the Meadowbrook Garden club.  Guests welcome, $5.

For more information please contact  2483646210, or  www.meadowbrookhall.org.

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Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter/blog information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly note if you email me. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com



Tuesday, October 18, 2016

October 18, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

 © Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.


Hi Gardeners

Salvia
We are having record highs across Michigan and most of the Midwest today and yesterday and that trend is heading east.  By this date last year we had already had some freezes, snow and sleet.  It’s hard to enjoy fall, at least for me, when it’s hot and muggy.  Not that I want snow and sleet, but cooler weather would be welcome.  We are supposed to get that by the weekend- when highs may only be in the 50’s.

The leaf color show seems delayed this year. The weather service says most places are a week or so behind.  I do see some color around here but it’s not at peak yet.  Colder nights as well as diminishing hours of daylight trigger leaf color.  We haven’t had enough nights near freezing for chlorophyll to stop functioning and disappear, leaving the lovely reds and yellows behind.  Some plants are more sensitive to just the shortening daylight and do color up despite warm nights.  I expect we will see better color next week through the end of the month.

I still have tomatoes and peppers alive in the garden.  The tomatoes had almost died from fungal diseases but they have recovered now and have put out all new growth and have been flowering and making little green tomatoes.  That’s shows how odd the weather has been.

The gourds and cukes are just about done, not from cold but from a heavy case of downy mildew due to warm wet weather.  Some annuals are still blooming, the mums are doing well, my dahlias are still blooming, and even the water hyacinth is blooming again- in October!  My Mina vine (Spanish Flag), finally started blooming, see an article about them below.  The moon flower is still blooming too.

I had lots of bulbs arrive this week for planting.  I also have some trout lilies to plant in my shady native plant area. Trout lilies have an elongated bulb. I got all of this current batch of bulbs from ColorBlends, a new company for me.  The bulbs are large and nice looking and they have really good prices.

I am hoping to finish cleaning the vegetable garden up and my chicken coops in the next week. Then there are the apples to get processed.  I have made a batch of apple butter, next is putting up sliced apples in the freezer for winter treats. I am getting tired of making pickles but I still have a lot of cukes to use up. We are supposed to be busy little ants preparing for winter but I get sidetracked when the fall weather is glorious, wanting to wander around soaking up the weak sun and capturing color with my camera.



Rooster dilemma

Last week just before it rained one evening, I went out to the barn to close it up and there stood a big rooster.  I thought it was one of mine who had come in the wrong part of the barn and closed him up in there for the night.   When I opened the door the next morning I saw the rooster was red- and I didn’t have any red roosters.  He hung around the yard all day trying to avoid my roosters.  That night after all the other chickens were shut up he came back in the barn and I set some feed down for him.

I was feeding the cats and then I turned around and there were two red roosters eating.  And when I went into the coop to shut it up there was another red rooster hiding in there.  So somebody dumped 3 Rhode Island Red roosters here.  Obviously they don’t know that resident roosters don’t take kindly to new roosters arriving and I have several young roosters here that hatched this spring as well as a mature older rooster. There has been lots of fighting and chasing around here.  I don’t have an empty coop to pen the new roosters in. They come inside each night after the other birds settle in and are surviving but it’s hard on them.

I despise people who drop off animals instead of doing the right thing and finding new homes for them or taking them to a shelter.  In the case of roosters they could also have been butchered, but these were probably some Easter pets.  Now I have their problem.  I am offering these roosters to anyone for free, they are nice looking.  If no one wants them they will eventually be put in the freezer.

What to do with those leaves

I think the leaf blower has got to be the worst garden tool invented. While there may be some need for them in a commercial landscape setting, to blow slippery leaves off walks for example, there is no need for them in the home landscape. Not only are leaf blowers noisy, gas guzzling and a contributor to air pollution but they are used to sweep away a wonderful gift that nature has given you-fall leaves.

Here’s why leaves should be considered a gift.  All summer long the tree has been drawing nutrients from the soil and creating food from sunlight.  While the trees do “recall” some of those nutrients from the leaves and store them in the roots over winter, there are still many nutrients in each of those leaves decorating your lawn. You can choose to throw those nutrients away, spending hours of time raking and bagging them, or worse, using a leaf blower to move them somewhere else. Or you can choose to keep nature’s gift and return those valuable nutrients to your soil.


Some people worry that if they let leaves lay on the lawn they will smother the grass. It is true that a heavy, thick layer of wet leaves can cause some patches of lawn to die. Nature seldom lets this happen because the leaves get stirred around by fall and winter winds but occasionally there are heavy build ups on lawns.  If this worries you or you don’t like the “messy” look of leaves on the lawn the solution is simple. On a dry day get your lawn mower, preferably with a mulching blade, set it to mow about 3 inches high and make a couple passes over your lawn.  If leaves have gathered against a fence or building your rake can get some use as you rake them out to where the mower can chop them up.

Leaves that are cut into small pieces by the mower will settle into the lawn and soon be decomposed, returning those captured nutrients to the soil and the trees that shed the leaves. In a very short time you will never know they were there. You can wait until all the leaves have fallen, or mow every few days, depending on how many leaves you are given.

There is one good reason to rake leaves and that is to use them for compost or organic improvement for your vegetable and flower beds. Better yet, use the bagged leaves your neighbors have spent all that labor on and just mow yours. Leaves can go directly into compost piles, whole or shredded. They can also be piled on bare vegetable beds. Leaves can be left in those plastic bags and stored dry somewhere to add to compost piles in the spring and summer when dry matter is needed to balance wet matter.

Before using leaves to mulch dormant perennials, most leaves should be shredded. Oak leaves and leaves that are very small already, such as honey locust leaves, are an exception. They can be used “as is.” Other leaves may matt and mold if used whole and in quantity. You can buy leaf shredders or you can place a layer of leaves in a large trash can, insert a “weed wacker” and chop them up. Wear safety goggles and keep your face away from the can opening if you do this in case foreign objects were in the leaves. Shredded leaves can be used generously to mulch perennial beds.

If you are thinking of building a new flower or vegetable bed in a turf area next spring the smothering effect of large amounts of whole leaves can be used to your advantage. Outline your new bed, mow the existing vegetation as short as possible and pile on the leaves, a foot or more high. You may want to lay some fence wire or burlap across the leaves and weigh it down to keep the wind from stealing your leaves over the winter.

You are wise, not lazy when you don’t rake and blow leaves away. Never throw a gift away.  Nature gave you the leaves so use them wisely.

Caryopteris- Beautiful In Blue

Blue Mist, Bluebeard, Blue Spirea, or Caryopteris, whatever you want to call it, this delightful late summer bloomer is a magnet for butterflies and a big asset in the late summer border. Caryopteris has true blue flowers and is hardy, tough and easy to grow.

Caryopteris flowers
The Caryopteris in our gardens are hybrids of several Asian species.   They are generally referred to as Caryopteris x clandenensis although there are some other species on the market.  Caryopteris is a sub- shrub - it can die back to the ground each winter like a herbaceous plant or in warmer climates it can grow as a woody shrub.  

Caryopteris leaves are generally silvery green, although variegated and golden leaved varieties exist.  The leaves are small and narrow, reminding one of willow leaves. In some varieties they are serrated at the edges, on others the edges are smooth and the leaf may be slightly lobed.

The flowers are carried on whorled spikes at the end of stems.  The long stamens stick out of each flower and the petals of the flowers have tiny extensions, which give the flower clusters a feathery appearance.  Caryopteris flowers are generally blue, although pink forms exist.  Butterflies and bees are very attracted to Caryopteris flowers.  The flowers are said to have a slight scent, although I have never noticed it.

Growing Caryopteris

Although it will sometimes re-seed itself in the garden, seed for Caryopteris is seldom offered to gardeners.  Caryopteris is generally purchased as a plant.  Try to buy a named variety rather than one just labeled Caryopteris or Blue Mist Shrub, as named varieties usually have better shape and more flowers.  Size of mature Caryopteris plants is about 3 foot by 3 foot.

Caryopteris is one of the few shrubs that will bloom in light or part shade.  They also do well in full sun.  They are hardy from zone 9 to at least zone 5.  In zone 5 Caryopteris may die back to the ground but will make substantial growth and will bloom by late summer.  Caryopteris blooms on new wood, so all winter-damaged wood can be safely pruned off in early spring without losing the flowers.  In fact, Caryopteris often has a better shape and looks fuller if it is cut back to about half its size each spring, regardless of winter damage.  Be a little patient with them in the spring as they are often slow to leaf out.

Caryopteris should be watered regularly but don’t fertilize unless your soil is quite poor.  Too much fertilizer makes more leafy growth than flowers.  They begin blooming in late summer and continue blooming until a hard frost.  Keeping dead flowers trimmed off on Caryopteris prolongs the bloom.

Choosing Varieties

Longwood Blue’ is one of the best sky blue flowered varieties.  It also has nice silvery gray foliage.  ‘First Choice’ is a deep blue with a dense, compact growth habit.  ‘Sunshine Blue’ has golden leaves and deep blue flowers.   It is a good choice for warmer zones. ‘Little Miss Sunshine’ is another variety with gold foliage. ‘Summer Sorbet’ has green leaves edged in gold and deep blue flowers.  ‘Pink Chablis’ is a Caryopteris with pink flowers.

Caryopteris divaricata, ‘Snowflake’ is a species of Caryopteris from the Himalayan Mountains.  It is a compact shrub, with slightly fuzzy green leaves edged in white.  The flowers are blue, but shaped a bit differently from other Caryopteris.  The leaves of this plant have an unpleasant smell. 
Caryopteris Little Miss Sunshine

Using Caryopteris

Caryopteris makes a nice low shrub bordering walks and is excellent in larger mixed borders for late summer color.  It is a good plant for butterfly gardens, especially mixed with pink buddleia and goldenrod.  It can also be used as airy blue filler in floral arrangements.

Spanish Flag, (Ipomoea lobata), Mina lobata

I picked up a plant of what I call Mina vine this spring at a local greenhouse.  It had been many years since I had seen the plant.  My grandmother called it Spanish Flag (not to be confused with Spanish fly) but I learned the scientific name, Mina lobata before it was re-classified and re-named to the Ipomoea family.  It’s also called Exotic Love and Firecracker plant in some circles.  My grandmother grew them from seed she saved each year.

If you like vines or just enjoy growing something different Spanish Flag will be just the thing for you. This cousin of the morning glory is fast growing but in zones 6 and below you’ll want to get it started early inside since it takes 12-14 weeks to begin blooming.  The attractive vines can grow up to 15 feet long and you’ll want to plant them along a fence or trellis.

Spanish Flag
Spanish Flag has an interesting horticultural history.  The plant was described and scientifically named in 1824 for Martín Javier Mina y Larrea, a Spanish general in the Mexican revolution.  Seeds were brought to Europe where it grew in gardens for a while and then disappeared.  In 1887 American botanists re-discovered the plant in its native home of Mexico, Central America, and Brazil and brought it to gardens here.  It was very popular for its uniqueness for several years but once again it vanished from horticulture. 

Around 1960 Spanish Flag began appearing again in American gardens sporadically.  It’s still not a very common plant, especially in northern gardens, but well worth seeking out and babying a bit to get it growing in your garden.  In zones 9 and above Spanish Flag is a short lived perennial and readily re-seeds itself.  In zones 7-8 it will be killed by frost but may re-seed itself and bloom each year.  In zones 6 and lower it really needs to be started inside 2-3 months before your last spring frost so it will have enough time to bloom before fall frosts. 

Description

Spanish Flag gets its common name for its pretty and unusual flowers.  The flowers jut out of one side of stems that grow on a slant, looking like flags (or maybe wind socks) flying from a pole.  They are in clusters along reddish stems and are tubular, with only a small opening which faces downward.  The youngest buds are scarlet red, as they mature they get longer and plumper, like a balloon inflating, and change from red to yellow-orange and then a finally a creamy white.  They mature from the bottom upward.  Each spray of flowers will display individual flowers in various color stages.

Once Spanish Flag begins bloom it is quite a prolific bloomer and puts on a good show.  Several vines along a fence or trellis will be very colorful.  Bees and butterflies do visit the flowers although it would seem like they would have trouble getting to any pollen or nectar rewards through the narrow opening.

The leaves of Spanish Flag have 3 deep lobes (think ace of spades).  In spring the young leaves have a bronzy purple look and they later mature into green leaves along a dark wiry stem. The vines are vigorous once the weather warms and quickly cover a lot of space.  They will climb and smother other plants so choose your planting site carefully.

Cultural requirements

Spanish Flag isn’t fussy about soil type although the soil should drain well.   You can put plants in the ground once it’s warm and all frost danger has passed or keep them in 2 gallon pots or larger.  They prefer full sun in the north, in zone 8 and above they will do fine in partial shade. Space plants in the ground about 12 inches apart.

Keep Spanish Flag well-watered but use little or no fertilizer on the plants or you will end up with lots of vine and few flowers.  It can take 12 weeks from the time Spanish Flag is transplanted into the garden to when it blooms.  Even though it is frost tender in the spring I have found that light frosts in fall may not harm it and it will continue to bloom until a hard frost.

Once vines wither from frost save a few seeds and pull the vines out and discard.

Starting from seeds

If you are lucky you may find Spanish Flag at a local nursery as starter plants in the spring.  But most gardeners will need to start them from seed.  The seeds need similar treatment to other Ipomea family members.  You’ll want to begin the process 10-12 weeks before your last frost.

First nick the hard round seeds. I use fingernail clippers to chip a tiny spot out of the side opposite the “scar” or where the seed attached to the seed pod.  Some people use a file and file a tiny spot through the seed coat.  You just need to get through the hard outer coat a tiny bit.  Don’t remove the whole seed coat and don’t cut deeply into the tissue beneath the outer coat. 

Next soak the seed in warm water for a couple hours.  Then plant it in warm 70-80 degree, moist seed starting soil.  For best results you’ll probably need a heated seed starting mat and a warm room.  I would put one or two seeds into individual 4 inch pots instead of using flats.  Keep pots warm and moist. The seeds of Spanish Flag can take 2-3 weeks to germinate even in good conditions so be patient.

Once you have the second or third set of leaves you should thin to one plant per 4 inch pot. If the planting medium did not contain fertilizer, you should use a water soluble fertilizer now.  Put a stake in early and tie the plants to it so they don’t twine and tangle together. Keep your plants in bright light such as a southern window or under a plant light.   Transplant outside after all danger of frost has passed.  Plants can grow in a two gallon or larger pot outside if you prefer.

Uses and cautions

All parts of Ipomoea lobata are poisonous. It’s not edible.  There are no known herbal uses.  Spanish Flag makes a great vine for a screen or covering ugly fences. It’s an excellent conversation piece on the patio or porch twining around a post.  It can be planted on a pillar or trellis in the border.

Cheesy Corn casserole

Most of you have heard about cheesy potatoes and probably have eaten them at a potluck dinner.  But cheesy corn is just as delicious and lower in carbs. The whole dish has about 100 grams of carbs. It’s an excellent side dish on a cold day and goes well with ham or sausage.

This is a recipe I adapted and modified from one of those recipes meant to feed a large crowd.  This recipe is more suitable for a family and serves 4-6 people. You could double or triple it if you want to bring something different to a potluck dinner.

You’ll need:

1-14-16 oz. bag of frozen whole kernel corn
1-14 oz. can of condensed cream of celery soup
½ c chopped onion
½ cup chopped green pepper
2 tablespoons of butter cut in small pieces
2 eggs, beaten
1 ½ cups cheddar-jack finely shredded cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

Blend the butter, eggs, and soup together well.  Pour into a 9x9 inch or similar casserole dish.

Add the corn, peppers, onions and cheese, salt and pepper and toss/stir well. You don’t need to defrost the corn before adding it.

Bake in a 350 degree oven for 35-40 minutes, until the top is lightly browned and sauce thickened.

Let the dish sit about 10 minutes before serving to further thicken the sauce and serve.

Variations

To make this a meal you could add diced cooked ham, chicken, or cooked sausage pieces.

If you like it spicy you can add some chopped jalapeno peppers.

If you don’t like celery you could use cream of broccoli, mushroom or chicken soup.  

Wooly Bear Caterpillars

Almost everyone in the Eastern part of the United States has seen a Wooly Bear, a fuzzy black and rust colored caterpillar, usually in the fall. They are said to forecast the type of winter we will have by the amount of rust color they wear but that is a folk tale that doesn’t have merit. (The wider the rust color band, the milder the winter is supposed to be.)  Each wooly (or woolly depending on your regions spelling), caterpillar in the environment will have slightly different coloration and there are several species of Tiger Moths, the adult form of the caterpillar, in most areas and each species may have slightly different caterpillar coloration. The Isabella Tiger moth (Pyrrharctia Isabella) is the most common and is found all the way to the artic.

But the wooly bear caterpillar does have a fascinating life cycle.  The ones we see in the fall may be a second or third generation of tiger moths that year but as the cold weather comes the fall generation will prepare to hibernate overwinter- not as a cocoon or pupae as many moths and butterflies do but as a caterpillar in suspended animation. They are crawling around looking for a layer of leaves or mulch to hide under in the fall. They may sometimes wander into homes looking for a place to hibernate, but they will not do any harm.

Once they have a winter home the wooly bear is prepared to freeze.  Its heart almost stops pumping and its body produces an anti-freeze like substance to protect the organs and brain.  The caterpillar can freeze solid and still be alive.  In the spring the wooly caterpillar will thaw and come to life.  He’ll eat leaves for a few days or weeks depending on his size, and then he will turn into a pupa somewhere in litter on the ground.  It will emerge about a month later as a pretty, 2 inch yellow-tan moth with black spots on the wings. 

Wooly bear caterpillars normally have black head and rear areas with a rust colored band in the middle.  The width of the band varies considerably and some caterpillars can be all black or rust colored also.  They are called “wooly” because they are covered with stiff hairs that make them appear fuzzy.  The caterpillars are pretty indiscriminate feeders and feed on a wide range of vegetation including maples, birches, thistles, sunflowers and clover.  They rarely do much damage and don’t need control.  The hairs on the caterpillar can cause a mild dermatitis on some people if handled but the main defense the wooly bear caterpillar has is to play dead.

 Isabella tiger moths fly at night and eat a little nectar if anything at all.  The moth only has a few days to mate and produce eggs.  She lays her eggs on a wide variety of trees and other plants including maples, thistles and dandelions.  The tiny wooly caterpillars that hatch use a “balloon” made out of a strand of silk to float from plant to plant at first.  Later they simply crawl from plant to plant.  They go through six changes of skin as they grow to about 2 inches long.  With each change of skin the color will also change.  When they are large and full enough of leaves they will turn into a pupae and start the process over, unless it is cold.

In the Arctic it can take several years of freezing and thawing before the wooly caterpillar has grown enough to make a pupae and turn into a moth.  In more southern areas there can be two or three generations of the moth, with the last one surviving through winter.  So when you find the wooly caterpillars as you clean your garden in the spring you can marvel at how the little bugger made it through the winter.

Gilded end to summer, cerulean sky gone gray, October day

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes, free items and sales
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com     Phone 810-664-8912

For sale Muscovy ducklings, black laced, about 4 months old, you must buy at least 2, unless you have other ducks.  $5 each. Message me at kimwillis151@gmail.com for more info. Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks.  They do not quack- and are very quiet.  I also have 3 and 4 year old hens for sale, a variety of breeds.  Some are still laying.  $3.00 each

I have 5-6 large size, young roosters I will give away free.  They are Rhode Island Red and some are a cross of Australorp and “Easter egg” chickens.  Shoot me an email for more information Kimwillis151@gmail.com  

Fundamentals of Growing & Caring for Dahlias, Friday, Oct 28, 2016, 10am, Meadow Brook Hall, 350, Mansion Dr., Rochester, MI

Dr. Keith Berven will talk about growing dahlias.  Sponsored by the Meadowbrook Garden club.  Guests welcome, $5.

For more information please contact  2483646210, or  www.meadowbrookhall.org.

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Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter/blog information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly note if you email me. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com