Tuesday, October 29, 2019

October 29, 2019 spooky days


Hi Gardeners

When it’s nice outside this time of year as it was yesterday, I feel I need to savor every minute of it.  Already my mind is picturing snow swirling across hard frozen ground and scraping off ice from the car windshield. I think about gloomy grays day like today, only with cold biting winds and having to trudge through piles of slushy snow.
 
So, when it’s still sunny and mild- I’m out there. I’m going to soak up every ray I can and hoard it.  It’s not the prettiest fall we’ve ever had, color is sadly lacking this fall, but if the sky is blue and the sun has some warmth, I’ll take it. I even sat on the deck last night as it got dark and listened to frogs and killdeers calling. And surprise- there was a mosquito buzzing around still!  

Is fall as busy as spring for you?  It seems so to me. I keep finding one last thing I need to do before the hard cold sets in. This weekend I dug up the dahlias and planted the last of the bulbs I had purchased. I repotted a rhipsalis cacti in my kitchen window, which was a major undertaking.  And there is still lots to do.

We had some temps down in the 20’s late last week so Saturday I was out digging the dahlias. I had a neighbor ask if I was digging up that big beautiful yellow flower and I told her yes, dahlia bulbs had to be stored inside over winter. She was disappointed because she wanted to buy some but didn’t want to bother digging them up every year.  I explained they were reasonable in price and she didn’t have to dig them if she didn’t want to.  That made her happy.

I am too thrifty, (cheap) to do that, just let the summer bulbs die. In fact, as I was digging the dahlias in the front bed, I found 2 more geraniums that hadn’t been killed by the frost yet and dug them up and repotted them.  I then had to juggle things around in the windows to make room for them.

There are a few things still blooming outside. Petunias, snapdragons, some of the salvias and wax begonias are still blooming.  Toad lilies, one mum and the landscape roses are still in bloom.

While things may not be blooming too well outside anymore there is a lot blooming inside.  My Texas hibiscus is in bloom, along with the pink double hibiscus, Kona. The pomegranate is blooming. The gerbera daisy is still blooming as well as the geraniums, cane begonias, diplodenia, streptocarpus and penta. And two of my “Thanksgiving” cacti are in bloom already.

The deer have been up fairly close to the house again in my veggie garden and in one flower bed by the driveway. They ate every leaf off one hosta, but it’s so late in the season it doesn’t really matter. And there’s nothing left in the veggie garden- maybe they are eating weeds there. I had removed the electric wire for winter. I came out the door just after dark and saw their big white butts leaping over the fence.

In today's blog I’m covering a lot of shorter topics.

Pomegranate flowers 


Bulbs

If you haven’t bought your bulbs yet you are cutting it close.  You can plant until the ground freezes, but a few weeks of non- frozen ground help bulbs get established. So, buy those bulbs soon- there are lots of sales- or plant the ones you have that are sitting around waiting.

If you want to force bulbs like paper white narcissus or hyacinths you should be buying them now too, especially if you want them for Christmas.  Also, if you want Amaryllis for Christmas presents or to have in bloom for the holiday buy them now.  If you get them potted right away, you may get blooms by Christmas.  For more information on amaryllis here’s a link; https://gardeninggrannysgardenpages.blogspot.com/p/houseplants-amaryliss4-amaryllis-did.html




Fall rose care

Even in my zone 5 climate some roses are still blooming.  I have had landscape roses blooming at Thanksgiving.  It’s fine for roses to continue blooming through fall.  What you don’t want to do is prune roses now, if they are still green and/or blooming.  Pruning will sometimes encourage new growth which will soon die and may make the rose less likely to survive through winter or experience more die back.

Once leaves are gone from the rose plants and the ground is frozen you can then prune them back enough to fit into rose cones if you use them, but don’t do any more pruning than that. Also, if you mulch rose plants for winter protection you want to do it after the ground freezes.

Should you use rose cones?  Hybrid tea roses would probably be the only roses to really benefit from these. Any rose grown on its own roots, such as landscape roses, old fashioned shrub roses and many climbers doesn’t need the protection of a rose cone. 

Mounding soil over the graft union of many roses is also a pretty good way to protect them. Don’t dig the soil from around the rose, bring it from somewhere else. You might want to dump your summer containers around them.  Do the soil mounding just before you expect the ground to freeze.

Mow, don’t blow
Its convention, not necessity that keeps people raking and blowing leaves instead of leaving them alone as nature intends. Instead of thinking about leaves as being a beautiful, natural blanket of fertilizer and comfort for the plants and soil, there is a compulsion to uncover the grass by raking or blowing the leaves away. And what would happen if a flower bed collected a covering of leaves or a fence corner caused a pile up of blowing leaves?  Certainly not the disaster some people worry about.
 Nature is leaving you a valuable present right now. The falling leaves are full of valuable minerals and nutrients collected by the trees all summer. When you allow them to decompose where they fall, they return those nutrients to the soil while also providing an excellent helping of organic material to increase water retention and aeration of the soil.
Ugly is in the eye of the beholder. If leaves on the lawn bother you too much take your lawn mower and run through them, chopping them into small pieces and distributing them more evenly. (This works best when the leaves are dry.) The chopped pieces will soon disappear into the burrows of earthworms or by decay. If you mulch leaves into your lawn you don’t need to add a fall fertilizer to the lawn.
Piles of leaves or really thick layers laying on the lawn would harm the grass through winter but a light layer or chopped leaves will do more good than harm. If leaves still cover the lawn in the spring, bring out the mower and chop them up. 
Leaves are fine to leave in flower beds. I actually rake leaves off walks and decks into my beds. If the ground looks bare, I add some leaves. Bare ground is unnatural. Six inches of leaves are fine. You wouldn’t want to put deep mounds of leaves over most garden beds, but they could be mounded over certain less hardy plants for protection. If in spring, you think a mat of leaves is preventing plants from growing or keeping the soil too cold and wet you can gently remove any mats from around the plants. 
Leaving the leaves on the ground, on the lawn and in flower beds, provides a place for insects, frogs and toads and other critters to overwinter. They shelter seeds, keeping them moist through winter. Birds search among the leaves for those hidden critters and seeds. If you like helping nature, leave the leaves.
If you want to remove leaves from walks, gutters, decks and driveways, which don’t need fertilization or protecting, rake them up and dump them in the vegetable garden, or into a compost pile. Don’t waste a valuable resource by placing them in plastic bags and sending them to the landfill.
The leaf blower is a noisy, environmentally unfriendly machine. They use gas, emit fumes, and annoy neighbors while damaging your hearing.  Good gardeners don’t need leaf blowers or want them.
Stop thinking of leaves as messy and ugly. Thank nature for being so resourceful in recycling precious soil nutrients. Work with nature instead of against it. All it takes is a change of attitude. Sell your leaf blower and buy more plants.



Plant garlic now
Planting hardneck garlic is much like planting spring blooming bulbs, you do it in fall. October and early November before the ground freezes are good times to plant. Hardneck garlic is the best choice of garlic for gardeners in planting zones 3- 7.  People in higher gardening zones can plant softneck types.  Hardneck garlic has flowering scapes, which many people find delicious. 
Buy your garlic for planting from a nursery. The garlic in the grocery is usually a softneck variety and while the cloves sometimes grow your chances of getting a good harvest are slim. Garlic “bulbs” are a cluster of segments called cloves.  Carefully separate these just before you are ready to plant.
Plant garlic in a full sun area where the soil is well drained. Plant the cloves 2-3 inches deep and make sure the pointed end is up.  Space cloves about 4 inches apart.  Water after planting unless the soil is really wet. Then mulch the planted area with straw or chopped leaves, about 3 inches should do.
Your garlic won’t emerge until spring.  During fall and early winter, it will be growing roots and getting established. Make sure to keep garlic mulched as it grows because weed competition makes smaller scapes and cloves.
 
Garlic scapes
Drying Gourds

Gourds come in many sizes and colors and make wonderful fall decorations. You may have grown gourds in your garden, but if you didn’t, gourds are often found at farm markets in the fall. The small, colorful ones require little more than drying to turn them into decorations, but the larger plain ones can be painted and cut and turned into many craft items, including bird houses.
Gourds can have holes cut in them and small plastic containers set inside to hold flower arrangements, candy, candles, or small snacks. Make a child’s rattle by drilling a small hole and inserting small jingle bells or beads, then seal the hole with a bit of putty and paint over it. Children enjoy decorating gourds with paint and small glue on decorations such as macaroni shaped as letters, brightly colored beans and seeds and feathers. Your imagination can find many uses for gourds.
Pick your decorative gourds before a hard freeze. You can leave them in the garden until then; it is better for them to dry on the vine.  Light frosts are fine, they will continue to dry after them, but freezing may turn them black or mushy.
Let the gourds dry in a sunny location a few hours after picking. Then brush off all surface dirt. Mix a solution of 1-part household bleach to 3 parts water and use this solution to wet rags or paper towels and clean the gourds surface. Then allow to air dry. This helps prevent mold.  You could also use some of the handy “wet wipes” with bleach to clean the gourds.  
After cleaning dry the gourds in a warm, dark place with good air circulation, until you can hear the seeds rattle inside.  The drying process takes from 2-4 months depending on the gourd and the conditions of the drying area.  Unfortunately, you cannot hurry gourds by drying them in the oven or microwave.  
If you want the gourds for a fall display this year, they can dry where they are displayed if they are not subjected to freezing or moisture and aren’t piled too deeply.  If you have gourds layered in a basket for example, you may want to rotate them from time to time. Gourds that you intend to keep for a long time can be sprayed with craft sealing finishes, varnish or wax after they are thoroughly dry.
If you are using larger gourds for crafts wait until they are completely dry, and you can hear those seeds rattling before cutting them or painting them.  A drill with a small bit is good for starting holes. Gentle use of a saw or drill is required to keep the gourd from shattering.  If you are making a bird house or something with a large opening, shake the seeds out.
Gourds can be painted with any acrylic craft paint.  If they will be outside, they should be covered with a waterproof sealer after the paint dries. Gourds that are to be left in a natural color should be sprayed with a sealer also. If the bird houses are just decorations use black paint to fake a hole. If they are for actual use as bird houses research what size hole the bird species you want to attract likes and use that size hole.



Knowing When Nuts Are Ripe

There’s a lot of gleaning and harvesting to be done right now.  If nuts are something you have access to here are some tips to know when to harvest and how to store them.
Pecan and hickory nuts are nearly ripe when the outer husk turns brown and splits.  Gather the nuts and spread them in a thin layer in a warm dry place for about 2 weeks. Make sure that the nuts are protected from hungry animals. After 2 weeks, peel off the husk and crack the nutshell. Remove the meat from the shell. If the nut meat snaps easily the nut is ripe and dry enough to store.  Pecan and Hickory nuts can be stored in the shell or the meats can be removed and stored in dry clean containers. 
Walnuts, black or English, are nearly ready when the husk turns black.  Collect the nuts and store in a warm dry place for about a month. Remove the husks using gloves as they stain the hands. Crack open the nutshell and check the nut meat.  Ripe meats are firm and white.  Some people put the walnuts on a driveway and run over them with a car to remove the hulls and crack the shells. This will stain the driveway.  Others have used old washers that have a bucket of sand put in them with the nuts.  Agitating will then remove the husks. Never do this with your good washer!   
Almonds are seldom grown by homeowners, but they are ripe when the husk splits open and reveals the nut. Crack a shell and see if the nut meat snaps easily. If not let the nuts dry longer.

Nuts will stay fresh tasting longer if refrigerated or frozen.  Make sure containers are closed tightly as the nuts will pick up flavors of things stored near them.

Pumpkin stuff

When English settlers came to the New World, they found Native Americans growing a variety of pumpkins and squash. Pumpkins were easy to grow and stored well so they became a favorite of pioneers too.
Early pumpkins did not look like the smooth, bright orange fruits piled outside every store in the fall. They were flatter and heavily ridged. The color was more of a pinkish orange or red. If you look at the illustrations in an early copy of Cinderella, you can get an idea of what early pumpkins looked like.
Today most of the pumpkins you see in the fields are for fall decorations and Jack- O -Lanterns, although Americans still like their pumpkin pie. But the pumpkin in pumpkin pie usually looks more like squash when it’s in the field. Some winter squash and pumpkins are nearly identical genetically and identical in flavor.  So, farmers grow “squash” for commercial canning as “pumpkin” because they are easy to grow and process. You can still use your homegrown pumpkin for pie if you want.


Jack O’ Lantern and other decorative uses of pumpkins

Don’t settle for carving a scary face on a pumpkin; instead carve a scene or random shapes into the pumpkin. Use a drill to follow a pattern drawn on the pumpkin, instead of a knife. White pumpkins can be coated with glitter for a different look. Many people now make patterns in a pumpkin by simply peeling off the outer “orange” layer and exposing the white layer underneath.
After cleaning and carving, soak the pumpkin in a mix of 1 teaspoon of bleach to a gallon of water for a few minutes. Pat dry inside and out, or dry carefully with a hair dryer, and then coat your carving cuts with a thin layer of petroleum jelly.  
Some people opt to paint the pumpkin instead of carving it.  Most acrylic craft paints will work and are non-toxic. The pumpkin could be rinsed off after Halloween and used to make pie.

Black duct tape can be used to tape a face on the pumpkin. If you can’t find black duct tape you can color regular tape with black marker. Cut the tape into shapes that make a scary or happy face and apply to a dry pumpkin.  Note: electrical tape won’t stick to pumpkins.
Another alternative to carving a pumpkin is to pin things like buttons, felt shapes, flowers or seed pods to the pumpkin. You can still find straight pins in the sewing notions section of stores and toothpicks can even be used. 


Want a new, environmentally friendly and safe way to light up your Jack O’ Lantern? Use solar lights. Solar lights use no electricity, and are perfectly safe, they won’t start fires or burn anything and because there is no heat with the light the pumpkin stays fresh longer. They turn on automatically when it’s dark and most solar lights will last many hours after a sunny day and will even come on for a while after a not so sunny day. And they can be reused year after year.
The simple inexpensive stake type solar light used to light paths make an excellent pumpkin light. Or you can buy strands of tiny solar lights or solar flood lights that have a panel you place in the sun and the lights can be 6-10 feet away. Wind the string type lights around a glass jar you insert in the pumpkin or just stuff them inside.
A pumpkin can be hollowed out to hold a glass or metal container in which a mum or dry floral arrangement could be placed. It could also be filled with dry corn, beans or rice to hold things like cattails, turkey feathers and dried grasses. Inside as a table decoration, small green plants or other flowers could be inserted. Halloween candy or other treats can be served from a pumpkin lined with a plastic bowl.
 Other than decoration
Native Americans used every part of a pumpkin. They were hollowed out, dried and used to hold seeds and other foods, even to carry water.  Some were elaborately decorated. Pumpkins were used in soups and stews. The flesh of pumpkins was cut into strips and dried over open fires for storage.  Dried pumpkin could be pounded into a form of flour. Young green pumpkins were eaten like we eat zucchini. Seeds were dried and used for food and medicine. Pumpkin flowers were also eaten.  Even the leaves were used in some areas as a cooked green.
Pumpkins have seeds which make an excellent tasty and nutritious snack. Clean the seeds out of one or more pumpkins and try to remove as much of the orange “goop” as possible.  Place the seeds in a colander and wash with cold water. 
Drain and spread the seeds on a foil covered cookie sheet that has been sprayed with cooking spray. Lightly spray the seeds with cooking spray or toss with a bit of olive oil, and salt to your taste. Put the cookie sheets in an oven set at 325 degrees and roast for about 20 minutes. Stir occasionally and keep checking on them, don’t let them get too brown. After roasting they can be stored in sealed containers.
For spicy pumpkin seeds try this recipe.  Mix 1 ½ tablespoons butter, ½ teaspoon seasoned salt, 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder and 2 teaspoons of Worcester sauce in a bowl and toss the seeds in it before roasting.  It will coat 2-3 cups of seeds.
Garlic salt, red pepper, Parmesan cheese, and cinnamon are all good seasonings to try on pumpkin seeds. There are various flavored popcorn seasonings on the market, caramel, cheddar, ranch and so on, that can be sprinkled on the pumpkin seeds also.
To prepare raw pumpkin for use in a recipe: wash the outside of a pumpkin and clean out the seeds and “goop” inside. Cut the pumpkin in chunks. Scrape any stringy matter off.  Place the pumpkin chunks on their side and slice off the rind (skin).  Rinse well under running water.  Place the chunks in a pan and cover with water. Cover the pan and simmer until the pumpkin is soft. Drain in colander, and then mash the pumpkin smooth. Freeze what you don’t use.

Pumpkin fudge
Want to use some of that prepared pumpkin?  Here’s a recipe for pumpkin fudge.
        2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup (5 fl.-oz. can) evaporated Milk
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup canned pumpkin (not pie filling) or pumpkin prepared as above
1+1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups miniature marshmallows
1 - 11-oz. pkg. butterscotch flavored morsels
3/4 cup chopped walnuts
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Combine the butter, evaporated milk, sugar, pumpkin, pumpkin pie spice and salt in medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, over medium heat. Boil, and stir constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
Stir in the marshmallows, butterscotch morsels, nuts and vanilla. Stir until the marshmallows melt and the mixture is well blended. Pour the fudge mix into a lightly buttered pan (9 x15) and refrigerate until firm.  Cut into bars. Makes about 48 bars.

Left over pumpkins can become great food for wildlife and livestock.  Chickens love pumpkins and placing a whole one in the coop is great for relieving boredom while providing a healthy treat. Cows, goats, sheep, pigs and even horses love pumpkins but introduce them in small amounts, so you don’t make the animals sick. 
Split a pumpkin in half and leave the halves near your bird feeder. Many birds enjoy the seeds as well as the flesh of the pumpkin.  I don’t like the idea some sites promote- using a pumpkin shell to hold birdseed, I think this makes moldy birdseed.  Deer love pumpkins and they can be used in bait piles.
If you have no animals to feed and no longer need harvest decorations, you can compost the pumpkins.  But be careful, if they still have seeds inside and you toss them in the flower bed, on the lawn or compost pile, you may get pumpkin vines growing there next year!


Remember to set the clock back 1 hour Sunday Night.



"...I cannot endure to waste anything so precious as autumnal sunshine by staying in the house. So I have spent almost all the daylight hours in the open air."
-Nathaniel Hawthorne


Kim Willis
All parts of this blog are copyrighted and may not be used without permission.

And So On….

Find Michigan garden events/classes here:
(This is the Lapeer County Gardeners facebook page)

Newsletter/blog information

If you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly blog if you email me. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine, but I do reserve the right to publish what I want. Contact me at KimWillis151@gmail.com

I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com



No comments:

Post a Comment