Tuesday, May 26, 2015

May 26, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

May 26, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners

One of my flower beds I was working on.
I hope you planted something this Memorial Day weekend.  I certainly did.  I have one of those funny afflictions where my eyes say I can buy far more plants than my hands and energy want to plant.  But I soldiered through and have finally gotten almost everything I bought planted.  Who needs a Memorial Day picnic when you can be gardening? So much to do.  What to plant where?  Does this pot look better here or there?  What else do I need to buy to fill that bare spot?

I also moved most of my houseplants outside.  The windows are now bare, we might need curtains now.  I was hoping for a cloudy, rainy stretch of weather for the transplanting and moving out of plants but we got little rain yesterday, barely a trace, and it was only partly cloudy.  Today is hot and sunny so far, I am once again hoping for some rain tonight.  I am taking a break from planting today to get this newsletter out and enjoying my time under the ceiling fan.  My husband is actually doing some housework today as I sadly neglect it during this time of year.

Mayapple flower.
The air is perfumed with lilacs, lilies of the valley, and the lovely little starflower(Isotoma) I buy each year for the porch.  The Mayapples are blooming, you have to look under the umbrella leaves for the little white flowers though.  Mayapple makes a good, taller ground cover in shady or semi-shady spots. I got my plants in an odd way.  A Master Gardener student in one of my classes told me his woods were filled with trilliums in bloom.  I told him I would love to have some trilliums for my woodland garden.  The next day he appeared with a bucket of “trilliums” for me which of course was not trilliums but Mayapples.  They worked out well though.   Mayapple flowers turn into little fruits that wildlife love and people can eat too.

The rhubarb is blooming also.  I let mine go to bloom; some people take out the flower stalk. They are so pretty in bloom and can make good flower garden subjects for large informal gardens even if you don’t like to eat the stalks.  See how to grow it below. And try the recipe for rhubarb cake.

I’ll have lettuce and spinach to harvest this week.  My blueberries actually set fruit- I am amazed.  I have strawberries on the plants; if I can keep the chickens from getting them they’ll be ready in about 2 weeks.  My carrots, melons, and pumpkins have sprouted.  I am still waiting for the corn to sprout.

Lily of the Valley, wild geranium
Dames Rocket is in bloom, my bearded iris are starting to bloom, foxglove is in bloom, the bristly locust is just beginning to bloom.  My yellow graduation rose is covered in buds, I can’t wait for them to open.  The hostas are looking great this spring, despite the hard winter.  I found some tiny hosta coming up from seeds this spring while weeding.  Now that’s something I never had happen before.  I am marking them to keep them safe and I’m curious as to what they will look like. 

A book I recommend

Amazon had an 80% off sale on electronic books and I happened to see a large, recently published book on perennials in the offerings.  Essential Perennials by Ruth Rogers and Thomas Christopher was published January 2015 by Timber Press and is an updated look at 2700 garden perennials in alphabetical order, some 452 pages of them.

The authors give short growing details, suggested plant combinations, their own observations on the plant and other tips. There is updated info on name changes and new cultivars. Lots of color photos in the hard cover, my kindle reader only showed them in black and white but some ebook readers probably show them in color.  If you don’t have a modern perennial guide this one is a great book to have.

I paid $1.99 for the book in electronic format, and it’s well worth it, even if the color pictures are not there.  Look on the 80% off sale list to see if it’s still there.  If not expect to pay $17.25 for ebook, $29.83 for the hard cover edition. 

What to plant now

It’s go time for zone 5-6 gardeners; you can plant all vegetable crops now.  Peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, melons, beans, cucumbers and pumpkins can all go in the ground, whether as seeds or transplants.  You may want to start a new crop of lettuce if you have one up and growing, to prolong your harvest.

Shade your new veggie transplants for a few days or plant them when it’s supposed to be cloudy for a few days.  This keeps them from sunburn in the first days after transplanting and gets them off to a good start.  A single sheet of newspaper is enough; make a little tent with it to cover the plant. For large plants you may need an old sheet or some large paper bags. Don’t use plastic or the plants may overheat. Water the plants daily if it’s hot and dry for the first week.

You may have to water things like corn and beans to get them to sprout if it doesn’t rain a ½ inch or so the week they are planted.

All those “after frost” flower seeds can also be planted now, zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, marigolds, and others.   Tender bulbs like canna, dahlias and glads can be planted or started plants transplanted outside.  The bedding annuals and hanging baskets can go in place.  Get those containers for the porch and patio planted.   And it’s probably safe to take the houseplants outside for their summer grow-cation.  Just make sure to put them in the shade for a week or two until they adjust to outside conditions.

It’s still fine to plant potted perennials, shrubs and trees.  Just make sure to keep them well watered for the first year.  It’s probably getting too late to plant lawn grass, wait for fall now to seed a lawn.

What’s at the Farmers Market now?

Lettuce and other greens, peas, green onions, chives, rhubarb, radishes, early beets, and asparagus should be available as locally grown.  Strawberries are progressing nicely and should be available in a week or so.    

You may want to look for a source of local eggs as supermarket egg prices are expected to rise rapidly because bird flu has wiped out entire flocks of layers in the mid-west.

How to Grow Rhubarb

One of the treats of early spring has to be rhubarb pie.  Michigan gardeners are lucky that they have ideal conditions to grow rhubarb and can usually manage a generous rhubarb harvest.  Michigan is also home to a thriving commercial rhubarb crop, most of it grown under glass or in tunnels to provide early rhubarb for those who craving the sweet -sour treat before it’s ready in the garden.

Rhubarb is a perennial crop; once you plant it you can harvest it for many years.  Make sure you choose a location for it in your garden where it won’t be disturbed.  Rhubarb isn’t fussy about soil type or soil pH as well as it is in a well-drained area.  It will even do well in light shade, although your crop will be bigger and plants more robust in full sun.

Rhubarb has large, “crinkled” or “rumpled” dark green leaves with bright red stalks.   The stalks are redder in the early spring.  Rhubarb plants slowly get larger over the years and a clump of rhubarb can be 3 feet high and 5-6 feet wide. In early summer rhubarb puts up tall flower stalks with clusters of white, airy flowers.  It can be quite ornamental if placed where its large size doesn’t overwhelm the garden.

Stately rhubarb in bloom.
Gardeners usually start with rhubarb “roots”, dormant divisions of a rhubarb plant.  There are several good varieties of rhubarb.  Victoria is an old variety that grows well in Michigan. Canada Red and Valentine are two other good varieties.  Rhubarb is generally planted in early spring.  One or two well grown plants are usually enough for a small family.

Rhubarb likes rich, fertile soil.  Work in compost and well-aged manure where you are going to plant it.  Plant rhubarb so the sprouts are about 2 inches below the soil.  Plants should be spaced at least 3 feet apart. About 3 weeks after planting, as growth starts, use a slow release garden fertilizer around the plants.  If spring is dry, water rhubarb to keep it succulent and growing.

Fertilize rhubarb each year as you see growth begin. Keep it weeded, especially the first year as it establishes itself.  Rhubarb has few pests other than kids; make sure you keep an eye on those so they don’t over harvest.

Unfortunately you’ll need to skip a harvest the first year you plant rhubarb. The plant needs to establish a good root system and needs all its leaves.  In the second year and every year after, you can harvest up to a third of the leaf stalks.  To harvest rhubarb simply snap or cut the stalks off the plant. Wash well before eating.

Rhubarb can be eaten raw as most country kids know, or sweetened and cooked into pies, preserves or jelly.  It is often combined with strawberries for some delectable treats.  Rhubarb can be washed, cut into small pieces and frozen.  Frozen rhubarb will be soft when thawed but can be turned into pies and other treats.   It can also be cooked and frozen.

Never consume any part of the rhubarb plant except the stalks and stalks only in the spring.  Rhubarb contains oxalic acid, which can be poisonous.  In the spring, before the flower stalks start, the stems of rhubarb have little oxalic acid and are safe to eat, unless you consume huge quantities.  Consuming large amounts of rhubarb stalks can lead to a tummy ache and lots of bathroom trips even in the spring. 

Rhubarb may need to be divided if clumps seem to be producing fewer stalks or thin weak stalks.  Simply dig up the whole clump in early spring and pull apart the roots and stem buds into separate clumps with several stem buds on each.  Replant as soon as possible.  Most rhubarb benefits from dividing every 3-5 years.

In the fall, after rhubarb leaves are killed by frost, trim them off.  After the ground freezes throw a layer of straw or oak leaves over the rhubarb crown.   Remove the mulch in early spring.  It’s a good idea to mark the location of rhubarb clumps with a stake if early garden work could damage them.

If you love rhubarb, you can tuck a clump into all but the tiniest garden and enjoy it for many years.  The best tasting rhubarb is right from your own garden.

Rhubarb and pineapple cake

This cake is fairly easy to prepare and tastes delicious. You could frost it, but it’s great with a scoop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, especially while warm. It’s not as sweet as some cakes, but soft, moist and flavorful. This makes a good potluck dessert, something different. Rhubarb and pineapple cake also freezes well.
Rhubarb-pineapple cake

* 2 cups of peeled, sliced rhubarb
* 3/4 cup of sugar
* 3 tablespoons butter (or margarine)
* 1 yellow cake mix
* 1 20 oz. can of unsweetened crushed pineapple, don’t drain.
* 3 eggs

Grease a 13x9 inch cake pan. Preheat oven to 350.

In a microwave safe bowl combine rhubarb and sugar. Cover bowl and microwave on high for about 3 minutes. The rhubarb should look like the consistency of the crushed pineapple.

Add the butter to the rhubarb bowl and let it melt. In the meantime combine the cake mix, 3 eggs and can of pineapple in a big bowl. Pour in the rhubarb-butter mixture.

Beat with the electric beaters until the cake mix and other ingredients are well combined, about 2 minutes. Pour into greased pan and bake for about 35 minutes- until a knife inserted comes out clean. Cool slightly and serve.

Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis, is an old fashioned charmer that belongs in every Michigan garden.  It’s charming and also deer resistant a great combination for most Michigan gardeners.  Bleeding heart is also known as Dutchman’s breeches or trousers.

Bleeding Hearts
Classic bleeding heart has clusters of 1-2 inch pink and white heart shaped flowers with a little upward curl on each side at the bottom.  Flowers dangle along tall stems over fern-like blue-green foliage.  Bleeding heart blooms in early spring about the time mid-season tulips and daffodils bloom and in cool springs may continue blooming through June.  Some newer varieties will re-bloom several times if kept moist.

Gardeners will find bleeding heart offered in the catalogs and stores as bare root plants and as potted plants. If bare root they can be planted in the spring as soon as the soil has thawed.  Potted plants already blooming should be planted out about the time forsythia blooms.  Bleeding heart is hardy to zone 4, which makes it safe for most of Michigan.

There are now varieties of bleeding heart that have white or red flowers and even a variety with lighter, yellow green foliage. Some of the newer, more sun tolerant varieties of bleeding heart have more tubular shaped flowers rather than heart shaped flowers. 

‘King of Hearts’ is a red flowered, heat tolerant hybrid.  ‘Aurora’ is a white flowered variety.   Rosy pink ‘Bacchanal’ is said to be the most sun and heat tolerant bleeding heart.  “Gold Heart’ is the variety with golden leaves.

Old fashioned bleeding heart can get to 2 feet tall in a favorable spot but many new varieties are more compact and get 15 -18 inches high.  Clumps slowly enlarge over the years.  Give bleeding heart plenty of room so it can develop its graceful arching form.

Traditional bleeding heart likes to be under deciduous trees where it will get some sunlight in early spring but then be shaded when the trees leaf out.  Newer varieties on the market will take some sun later in the season if they are kept moist.  Still a partly shaded to light shade location is the preferred planting spot.

Bleeding heart prefers a rich, moist organic soil.  If the soil is good fertilization probably isn’t necessary.   A nice layer of leaf mulch or finely shredded bark would keep the soil moist and cool around the plant’s roots.

Keeping bleeding heart plants well watered will ensure the best show of flowers.  If the plants are subjected to too much heat and dry out they will go dormant and the foliage will die back to the ground.  This tends to happen to older varieties anyway by mid-summer.  They generally return in the spring when conditions are better, so don’t forget to mark their spot.

To prolong bloom and encourage repeat bloom in some of the newer varieties keep bleeding heart flowers trimmed off as they fade.

Leaf miners are bleeding hearts biggest pest.  These tiny worm-like critters leave white trails across the leaves.  A systemic insecticide could be used on the plants but the miners seldom do any serious damage to the plants health.

Bleeding Heart mixes well with spring bulbs and shade lovers like hosta and heuchera.  It is a shady cottage garden staple but looks good in any shady location.

Bleeding heart has been reclassified in some books as Lamprocapnos spectabilis.

Drink your chamomile tea

Mexican Americans are fond of chamomile tea and recent research published in Gerontologist  has found that drinking the tea has some great benefits for them, especially for women.  Chamomile tea can probably help people of all ethnicities.   

Researchers from The University of Texas Medical Branch at Galveston studied Mexican–American populations age 65 and older in 5 southwestern states, tracking their use of chamomile tea over the previous 7 years.  They found that Mexican American women who drank chamomile tea had a 29% lower mortality rate from all causes than women who did not drink chamomile tea. The mortality rate of men was not affected.

Chamomile tea reduces anxiety, aids in sleep, and helps indigestion.  The tea has been found to lower cholesterol, lower blood glucose slightly and it has antioxidant, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory effects on the body.  All of these factors probably account for a lower mortality rate among chamomile tea drinkers.


Growing Chamomile- Cultivating Calmness 

Chamomile has been used as a remedy for calming the nerves and the stomach, and easing sleep, since herbal remedies were recorded. Chamomile is one of those herbs that even beginners can grow and it is hardy through much of the United States.  Chamomile is also used in a variety of beauty products currently on the market from shampoo to skin cream.

Modern medical research has determined that chamomile has anti-bacterial, anti-viral and anti-fungal properties, good for use on minor wounds, and skin conditions and as a gargle for sore throats and inflamed gums.  Chamomile also relaxes the smooth muscles, particularly in the intestines and is used to calm upset stomachs, and to relieve gas pain, cramping, and minor diarrhea.

The most common herbal use of chamomile however, is to calm the nerves and aid in getting a good night’s sleep. Research has confirmed that it has sedative properties. It can be used alone or with other herbs with sedative properties such as valerian and catnip.  Chamomile is widely available on the market as a tea, capsules, powdered herb, or essential oil.  It is easy to grow your own chamomile for herbal use also.
Chamomile

There are two types of chamomile grown by herbalists, German, (Matricaria recutita), and English or Roman (Chamaemelum nobile).  Both are easy to grow, similar in appearance, and are used for the same medicinal purposes.  German Chamomile is the plant used to grow commercial crops.  It is the most studied, but most experts believe the medicinal qualities are very similar between the two types of chamomile.

German Chamomile is an annual plant that needs to be planted each year; Roman Chamomile is a perennial, hardy in zones 3-9.  German Chamomile gets about 2 feet tall but Roman Chamomile is a groundcover plant that rarely gets more than a foot high.

Both types of Chamomile have tiny, narrow gray-green leaves that give them a ferny appearance.  German Chamomile grows upright as a single plant.   Roman Chamomile grows as a tangled mat of plants produced by rhizomous roots.  The leaves of both types have a characteristic smell when crushed, somewhat like apples. 

It is the daisy like flowers that produce the medicinal qualities. The flowers are white, with 15-18 petals drooping down from a raised yellow cone.  They are about an inch across. Plants begin blooming in mid-summer.  A double flowered variety of German Chamomile has been grown since the 16th century

Growing Chamomile

German Chamomile is started from seed or small plants can be purchased.   In cold climates it would be wise to start the seeds inside about 6 weeks before the last frost.  Transplant them outside after your last frost as they are not frost hardy.  Seeds can also be sown in the garden when the soil is warm.

Roman Chamomile can be started from seed but germination is less reliable than German Chamomile.  Roman Chamomile produces runners, little plants that can be separated from the main plant.  New gardeners will probably want to buy plants or get a start from a friend.  To make tea you’ll probably need several plants.

Chamomile likes a sunny spot, with sandy soil.  It tolerates dry conditions but will bloom more freely if watered regularly.  It will not grow in wet areas.  Unless the soil is very poor chamomile does not need fertilizer.  If you are growing Roman Chamomile do not cut the plants back in the fall.  Wait until spring to carefully remove the dead branches from the previous year.

Growing chamomile near other herbs is said to make those herbs have stronger medicinal qualities and make the neighboring plants stronger and healthier.

Harvesting and Using Chamomile

Harvest the flower heads as they bloom.  You can just clip them off the plant. You can use them fresh or dry them for later use. To make an herbal tea, you can steep about a cup of fresh flower heads in a pint of boiling water.  Use about 2 tablespoons of dried powdered flower heads to a cup of boiling water.  Keep a lid on steeping chamomile as some of the medicinal qualities may be lost if it is left open. Strain before drinking. 

To calm the nerves and bring on restful sleep, the dosage is about a cup of warm tea.  Cooled tea can be used as a gargle for sore throats or inflamed gums and cold sores.  Tea is often mixed with ginger ale to help upset stomachs.

For use externally, as a poultice for skin problems or minor wounds make the tea much stronger, about 3-4 cups of fresh flowers to a pint of water or 6-8 tablespoons dried herb to a cup of water.  Cool before using.  This can also be used as a rinse for blond hair to restore highlights.  Cool chamomile tea is also used as a spray for seedlings, to prevent fungal disease.

The flowers can be crushed and then slowly steamed, which will produce pale blue oil.  When such oil is produced at home it is hard to judge the quality and strength.  It’s also hard to produce a sizable quantity.  If you would like to use chamomile oil for herbal lotions or remedies it might be wise to purchase a standardized extract at a health food or drug store.

If you don’t like tea and want to try chamomiles soothing properties you can purchase capsules and tinctures in many stores.  Follow the label directions for dosage.

Precautions for chamomile use

Adults should drink no more than 2-3 cups of chamomile tea a day.  Children under 5 should drink no more than half a cup and ages 5-18, about a cup. Follow label directions on capsules and tinctures.  Chamomile thins the blood and can cause excessive bleeding. It may also mimic the effects of estrogen.
Chamomile should not be used by people allergic to ragweed, chrysanthemums, or asters. It should not be used by persons with asthma before consulting a doctor. Use chamomile cautiously in small doses until you determine if you are allergic to it.

It is thought that chamomile may have estrogen like effects on the body and those with breast or uterine cancers should not use chamomile. Pregnant women should also avoid chamomile because can cause excessive bleeding during childbirth or cause uterine contractions.  and is passed to the infant through mother’s milk.

People on blood thinners should not use chamomile.  Chamomile reacts with many drugs.  If you are on ant-depressants, sleep medicines, birth control pills, sedatives, anticonvulsants, some allergy medications, statins or pain medications you should talk to your doctor about using chamomile.   In fact, you should always consult your doctor before mixing herbal and other medications.  Alcohol use with chamomile should be avoided.

Go Garden- you won’t need chamomile tea for sleep!
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero



Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area

Free Garden tour by Michigan Hosta Society, Saturday June 13th, 9 am – 5pm.

Take a self-guided tour through 5 beautiful gardens, public welcome and it’s free!  There will be refreshments at some gardens and vendors will be offering items for sale and demonstrations.  To get more info and a map go to http://easternmichiganhostasociety.blogspot.com/

Peonies Galore Sale, Sat, May 30, 2015, 10am, Nichols Arboretum,1610 Washington Heights, Ann Arbor, MI
         
Locally grown heirloom peonies for sale set amid the largest collection of heirloom peonies in North America. 734-647-7600.

Welcoming the Summer Get-Together, Auction & Plant Exchange Mon, June 1, 2015, 7pm, Congregational Church of Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, MI

Get to know your fellow gardeners, share secrets & bid/exchange great plants. Hardy Plant Society 248-693-0334


Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch.  Now open.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580

Back Track To Nature offers the following programs to inspire you and deepen your relationship with nature! In partnership with the Lapeer Land Conservancy and Seven Ponds Nature Center these programs are a perfect way for families and adults to enjoy the outdoors.

JUNE 2015

Learn in the Garden Tour  -  A Visit to Three Roods Farm
Monday, June 1, 2015                        9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421
In this tried and true farm and garden tour we will discover what’s growing at 3RF and learn the meaning of CSA. See what goes into managing a beehive, discover how permaculture garden design uses the inherent qualities of plants and animals combined with natural characteristics of the landscape, and  visit with the chickens, ducks and peahens all living in harmony with one another. Dress for the weather. No admittance fee.  Please call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a registered adult.

The History of the Land Series - Introduction to Land Stewardship
Thursday June 4, 2015                      6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan In this History of the Land Series, our focus will be on land stewardship of the Tibbits property.  You will gain valuable information and understanding about what a land steward is required to do: we will discuss how to monitor property, identify encroachments both the animal an human impact and show you how to perform trail maintenance and identify invasive species. Join Karen Page land steward, at the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to reserve your spot.

Wild Springtime Tea Party
Saturday, June 13, 2015                   10:00AM to 12:00PM
Cassie M owner of Hilltop Barn will guide us through field and forest to show us how to identify native plants and brew up some tasty teas and learn the how wild edibles are beneficial to your overall health. Please contact Karen Page at 810-969-1023 to register, children 17 and younger must be accompanied by a registered adult. No admittance fee and donations accepted. Please park in the designated parking area.

Living with Less: Talk and Tour of the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Saturday, June 13, 2015                     1:00PM to 3:00PM 
4107 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421 Rewire your brain to repurpose, reuse, recycle, harvest rainwater and grow your own foods, begin a new lifestyle recreated by living with less, Tibbits Nature Sanctuary owner Clark Tibbits will share his successful experiences creating a life long choice to live on less. A step you can make toward a living with less can be as simple as adding a rain barrel and a square foot garden to your home landscape. Back Track To Nature owner Karen Page, will demonstrate how to harvest rainwater and grow your own food in a small spaces.  Please call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a registered adult. Follow the signs and park in the designated parking area.

The History of the Land - Introduction to Wetland Restoration
Monday, June 15, 2015                   9:00AM to 11:00AM and 6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan. In this History of the Land Series we will explore, observe and study the wetlands and learn about rich and exciting varieties of wildlife and plants, focusing on water lilies, Today, this wetland is cared for by the Lapeer Land Conservancy but it could have been in the backyard of the famous painter Monet who in 1890 developed his own outside studio where water lilies influenced his paintings. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free.  Dress for the weather. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days before to reserve your spot.

Change of the Season – A Guided Nature Walk
Saturday, June 27, 2015               9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
Entrance and parking is located across from  4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan Join us for a guided nature walk on the trials of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides. Dress for the weather. This is a walking tour on uneven terrain. No Admittance fee. Groups of 5 or more please call 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to this walk.

Learn in the Garden Tour - Planting, Composting and Water Harvesting
Monday, June 29, 2015                 9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
In this tried and true garden tour you will learn basic techniques, of planting, composting and water harvesting to promote sustainability and keep your own garden growing in abundance. This farm and garden tour will be held at Three Roods Farm at 4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville Michigan. Dress for the weather. Class size is limited to 15, children 17 and under must be accompanied by a registered adult. No admittance fee. Call 810-969-1023 to reserve your spot.


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


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