May 12,
2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
Hi Gardeners
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| Tulip 'Orca' |
I am happy we got the rain this weekend and yesterday, it was really
needed. I got 8/10th of an
inch here over the 4 days from Friday to today. The plants are looking much
perkier. But this chilly weather will
take getting used to again. If you are
like me and put some frost tender plants outside already watch the weather
forecast carefully tonight and tomorrow night. Tomorrow night, May 13th, and early Thursday morning look prime for
frost at this point. Frost warnings
are often not posted until late eve. You’ll want to cover plants or bring tender
ones back inside. After that the weather
looks like it will warm up again.
The apples and cherries are in bloom- I hope frost doesn’t harm them
this year- and the lilacs are also beginning to bloom. Redbud trees are blooming as well as the
ornamental pears and cherries and flowering quince. In my garden Bleeding Heart is in bloom, as
well as Brunnera and the alliums are beginning to bloom. Tulips are still
pretty but a lot of varieties have finished blooming. I can see buds on the peonies.
I think my peach tree may have been killed- it was over 6 feet tall and
I expected it would bloom this year but I don’t even have leaves. My grape vines died way back to close to the
roots so grapes may be a casualty this year too- at least as far as expecting
fruit. The blueberries bloomed, but I am
not holding my breath for fruit there either.
I put 4 tomato plants out –something to protect from frost-but I couldn’t
resist. Yesterday I planted cucumbers,
melons, pumpkins and gourds as the soil was quite warm and I don’t expect they
will germinate until the weather warms back up. I also planted zinnia, cosmos
and calendula seed last week. Next week
if the weather still looks good going forward I’ll get the corn planted.
Hummingbirds and swallows are back, but I still haven’t seen my usual
orioles. There have been lots of Rose
Breasted Grosbeaks around and I have a pair of catbirds in the yard. The starlings have babies hatched in the roof
of the barn and they are driving the cats nuts. I know of cardinals, titmice, and
robins nesting. I watched a pair of
geese escorting a big bunch of goslings across the horse pasture and a plowed
field to get from one little pond to the next.
The goslings seem to be numerous this year.
Can
you reuse potting soil from last years containers?
This time of year a gardeners thoughts turn to planting and many
gardeners will be planting in containers that they used the previous year. A common gardening question is can I re-use
the potting soil left in the containers this year? The answer is yes in most cases but you must
do some things to make the potting mix suitable for growing healthy plants this
year.
If you had disease problems in your container plants last year and
intend to grow the same type of plants in the container this year you should
probably remove all of the potting mixture and replace it with new. If the potting mixture became crusted and hard
or didn’t seem to drain well it’s also time to replace it or at least amend it
with a better planting mix. However,
most of the time the potting mixture in containers can be reused with some
attention to details.
Plants growing in the ground can take up minerals from the soil which
they need for proper growth. Soil is a mixture of broken down rocks (minerals)
and organic materials. While plants can manufacture their own food from photosynthesizing,
they do need some minerals, amounts and types needed vary from plant species to
plant species, to properly carry out all their life functions. Most potting
mixes contain no mineral soil, unlike the natural soil in your yard. Instead the potting soil sold in stores is
generally composed of peat, perlite, and some other form of organic matter such
as ground bark or coconut fiber. Some
mixes also have water retaining granules added and many mixtures contain
fertilizers. These potting mediums are
for anchoring plant root systems and if they don’t say they have a complete
fertilizer included, they don’t meet all of the plant’s needs.
If the potting soil mixture in your container contained fertilizer last
year or you added fertilizer to the mixture, it has probably been depleted by
the plants that grew in it last year.
This is especially true of nitrogen, a nutrient greatly needed by plants
but which also disappears into the air over time, as well as being used up by
plants. Other major nutrients needed by
plants are potassium and phosphorus but plants also need trace minerals like
copper, zinc and magnesium. Most
fertilizers can supply these needs.
If you are re-using potting mixtures from previous years you’ll need to
re-new the nutrient content of the mixture.
The best way to do this is by mixing in some granular, slow release
garden fertilizer found in all garden stores.
There are organic and inorganic fertilizers but plants don’t care which
type they receive, it’s the human caretaker who takes that stand. For flowering or foliage containers select a fertilizer
for flowers. If you will be growing
vegetables in containers select a vegetable fertilizer.
What about liquid fertilizers?
Garden centers recommend you use liquid fertilizers once a week or so, on
most flowering plants. You should do
that if you bring home a hanging basket or pre-planted container and leave the
plants in it. And if you want you can skip the slow release dry fertilizer
mentioned above and use liquid fertilizers on your containers on a regular
basis. Be very careful not to make the
liquid fertilizer too strong, the roots of container plants can easily be burnt
by strong mixtures.
If you use a slow release fertilizer in containers don’t use liquid
fertilizers on the plants for at least two months, or the plants may get too
much of a good thing. Most directions on
slow release fertilizers claim they are good for 3 months and that will cover
most of the growing season. Some heavily
blooming plants may need a little supplementation at about 2 months, especially
if they have to be frequently watered, as this leaches out some of the
minerals.
How to do it
The easiest way to re-new your potting soil mixture is to remove it from
the container and place it in a large bucket or maybe a garden cart. If the
container is large you can just remove the top 8 inches of potting mix for renewal.
The planting medium from several containers can be dumped into one mixing
container and renewed at the same time.
Stir up the mixture, breaking up clumps and removing any leftover plant
debris. Estimate how much potting mix
you have and then mix in the proper amount of fertilizer granules by reading
the label directions. Mix in the fertilizer thoroughly with a shovel or your
hands. Now refill your containers.
If you have just one container to renew you can probably dig up and
loosen the old potting medium and work the proper amount of fertilizer into the
container. It’s always better to mix in
the fertilizer before adding plants to containers.
If the planting mixture you used last year seemed to dry out quickly you
may want to mix in some moisture retaining granules you can buy in stores or
use the gel granules and absorbent material from the liner of a diaper. You can also add some sphagnum peat or good
compost to increase moisture holding capabilities and make the potting mix
lighter.
Since potting medium is lost when containers get knocked over, when it washes
out through the drainage holes and when it sticks to plant root systems that
were discarded, you may need to purchase some additional planting medium this
year to fill your containers. You can
mix it with the old medium or choose one or two containers and fill them with
the new planting medium, using the old potting medium in them in your renewal
pile. Many gardeners with a lot of
containers to fill add some new potting medium each year.
Moisten all potting mixtures before putting them back into containers. You
may need to stir it well to get water into the bottom part of the mixture. The
mixture should look and feel moist but water should not seep through your fingers
if you pick up a handful of the mix. If you put dry potting medium in a pot and
then add water some of the mixture may float up and out of the pot. The bottom layers of the pot may not get
moistened and will suck water away from newly planted plant roots.
Adding garden soil and/or compost to containers
If you have access to good compost or you have loamy, light garden soil
you could use it in your outdoor containers. Remember that compost is not
fertilizer, and it’s not a good source of all nutrients plants need, so it will
need a slow release garden fertilizer mixed into it for container plants to
grow well. Garden soil isn’t necessarily
well balanced soil, and unless you have it tested it’s a good idea to use
fertilizer in it also. Even a good garden soil will be depleted of some
minerals after a year of plants growing in it and should be renewed with
fertilizer.
Heavy clay soil is not recommended for containers. Not only does it make the containers very
hard to move around, it tends to get like a brick when it dries out and when
conditions are wet it may not drain well and plant roots will rot. You could
mix clay soil with compost or peat, ground bark and so on- but it’s probably
easier to just buy potting mixture.
If you bring plants inside for the winter garden soil is more likely to
harbor creatures like worms and ants, although they can get in soilless
planting mixes too. If this bothers you don’t use garden soil in house bound
containers.
So yes, you can save money by reusing last year’s potting mix. Just remember to fertilize container plants
so you meet all their needs and keep them healthy and pretty.
The
wild impatiens
While most gardener’s think of impatiens as tender
perennials that last one season in the garden, and that you buy in the garden
shop, there are a few types of impatiens that are wild things, some native, and
some introduced. Our native Jewelweeds Impatiens capensis, (Orange jewelweed), and
Impatiens pallida, (Yellow jewelweed)
are sometimes called Touch-Me-Not.
Another pretty but invasive non-native plant is Impatiens glandulifera, sometimes called Policeman’s Helmet. As the saying goes one person’s weed is
another person’s wildflower and with these plants that saying holds very true.
 |
| Jewelweed |
In Michigan, Jewelweed usually begins flowering in July
and can continue until frost. It is
found in swampy woods, marshes, ditches and wet fields. It is sometimes cultivated in shade gardens. Bees and hummingbirds are very attracted to
Jewelweed. Ants eat the gelatinous
covering of the seeds and are responsible for some of the spreading of the
seeds.
As a member of the Impatiens family the Jewelweed leaf
is very similar to the leaf of the impatiens we plant in our yards. They are large, broadly oval, thin, and have
toothed edges. Jewelweed grows much
taller than garden impatiens, with stems up to 6 feet in height if conditions
are good. The stems are very succulent,
can become as large as a pencil or larger, and have prominent swollen joints.
The flowers of Jewelweed begin as small clusters of
whitish buds coming from a stem and leaf junction. They are on top of the leaves as they begin
but by the time the buds open the leaves will have grown and the pretty yellow
and orange flowers will dangle beneath them on slender stalks.
The flowers are yellow and funnel shaped ending in a
narrow, curled tube called a spur. Impatiens
capensis has a flare of petals at the lower side of the opening
that are usually orange. The yellow
throat of the flower is speckled with orange and brown. Impatiens pallida has flowers that are entirely pale yellow. The flowers vary from 1/2 inch to an inch
long.
The flowers turn into long oval seed capsules and the
plant gets another common name, Touch-Me-Not, because the capsules explode at
the slightest touch throwing the hard dark seeds far from the plant. The plant grows from seed each year. Jewel weed can be extremely invasive in the
garden and yard if the site suits it. The seeds will come up thickly, choking
out other plants if left alone.
Jewelweed is one of the noted native and folk remedy
plants. The leaves and stems contain an
astringent and a fungicide. The juice of
crushed plants is boiled with soft fat or lard and applied to hemorrhoids. The plant juice is said to heal poison ivy
rash and insect bites and is used to cure athlete’s foot. It is said that if you see a wild stand of
Jewelweed poison ivy is probably close by too, something to remember. The plant should not be taken internally.
Impatiens
glandulifera looks very similar to our native
Jewelweeds but many people like to label it as a noxious invasive pest even
though its traits are similar to our native impatiens because it comes from the
Himalayan region. This impatiens is now
found growing wild throughout the northeast US and Canada. Some places now prohibit the growing of the
plant because of the way it spreads, but it seems the horse is already out of
the barn in this case. It doesn’t invade farm crop fields. It should probably be seen as a different
colored Jewelweed, which no one gets overly excited about since its native, no
matter how much ground it covers.
Policeman’s Helmet has similar leaves and stems as
Jewelweed although in the leaf joints tiny red tipped bumps appear. These are glands that secrete nectar, and give
the plant its Latin name. The crushed stems give off a musty smell. The flowers
of Impatiens glandulifera are also similar to Jewelweed but they occur in small
clusters of three and they range in color from white to pink to a lovely purple
color. They bloom from mid-summer to frost. This has made many gardeners want to include
them in rain gardens and moist semi-shaded locations.
 |
| Policeman's Helmet credit wikimedia common, Art Mechanic |
Impatiens glandulifera flowers are also favored by bees
and hummingbirds and ants also carry the seeds away for their sticky covering. This impatiens produces more nectar per plant
than almost all other flowers and our native bees find it very attractive. This seems a good reason to let it exist
among the native Jewelweeds.
Like Jewelweed Policeman’s Helmet will grow in sun or
partial shade but likes a moist location.
Also like Jewelweed it’s an annual that dies to the ground each
year. It spreads rapidly only through its
seeds, which are thrown explosively from the plant when the pod bursts. Seeds also float on water and are carried by
ants. The seeds need a cold period to germinate. Each plant can produce 700 or more seeds.
Little is known about the herbal uses of Impatiens glandulifera.
Mosquito
tidbits
By now most gardeners have heard that they should
protect themselves against mosquito bites because mosquitoes carry West Nile
Virus, among other things. Some years we
have more cases of West Nile virus and more deaths from it than other years and
now researchers have found a way to predict what weather conditions might predict
a bad year for West Nile Virus cases.
Researchers correlated weather events in spring and
early summer and cases of West Nile Virus that occurred later in the summer for
the last ten years. They found that a temperature rise of even 1 degree above
normal in spring and early summer doubled the number of West Nile cases. In the east and mid-west drier weather in
late fall and early spring also produced a rise in WNV cases later in the
summer.
Since this year’s spring weather has been slightly
warmer and drier than normal take care to protect yourself from mosquito bites
while gardening this year.
Another interesting and funny bit of information I ran
into this week about mosquitoes is that doctors may soon be prescribing Viagra,
the erection drug, for preventing malaria.
Mosquitoes pick up malaria infected red blood cells from people and
inject them into other people when they bite.
When Viagra is in the blood, the blood cell walls of malaria infected
cells get “stiff” and the spleen removes them from circulation because they are
deformed. Bone marrow makes new ones to replace them. This can halt the spread of malaria infected
red blood cells. This research was done
by a large collaboration of European researchers and published in May 7, 2015 PLOS Pathogens. So ask the Doctor
if Viagra is right for you.
Growing
Lantana
There are several species of lantana; they are native to tropical America and Africa. Some lantanas have naturalized in the southern states and have become invasive pests, even if they are beautiful. Gardeners will want to stick with hybrid lantana plants that are sterile. The sterile varieties bloom better and longer. These are the varieties most often found in the garden shop.
Lantanas come in upright and trailing types. The leaves of Lantana are long, gray-green and blade-like, with toothed edges. They feel rough to the touch and have a strong odor when crushed. While some people profess to like the smell, most avoid bruising the leaves after smelling them.
Lantana flowers come from the tips of the plant and from where leaves join the stem in half round clusters of numerous, small 4 petal flowers. The small flowers turn color as they age so most flower clusters contain two or more colors. Colors are in the hot range of oranges, yellows, and reds, with a few pinks and lavenders. The flowers also have a slight scent, which again, some like and some don’t.
Wild Lantanas produce small fruits that are juicy and blue-black. Birds are fond of them but they are poisonous to humans and animals. The sterile varieties found in garden stores don’t produce fruit. Lantana plants are poisonous to livestock.
Growing Lantana
Lantana is a tender tropical plant. It must not be put outside until all danger of frost has passed. In Michigan it is generally treated as an annual but it can be brought inside to over winter in a sunny window. It will get bigger each year.
Lantana must be planted in full sun. It thrives in well drained sandy soil of low fertility. In rich moist soil it is prone to disease and produces more leaf than flowers. While drought tolerant, lantana plants must be watered until they form a good root system. They will also bloom better if they are watered once a week in hot dry weather.
 |
| Lantana |
Lantana is a great container plant as long as the container has good drainage. They should be watered a little more frequently in containers than in the ground. Try to water the soil around the plant and not get water on the leaves. Wet foliage may cause disease problems.
Plants in containers may benefit from a little slow release fertilizer but lantana plants in the ground seldom need fertilizer. If the plants get woody and lanky cut them back by a third.
Deer and other animals do not usually eat lantana, although some insects do. If grown in moist areas the roots may rot. Lantana in shade is prone to fungal disease.
Some varieties
Because the best varieties for blooming are sterile, gardeners usually buy plants. Lantana seed can be found in some catalogs though. Many lantanas are not labeled with variety name in garden stores. Some good upright lantanas are ‘Miss Huff’ a coral-pink flower and large plants, up to 5’ tall, ‘New Gold’ a mounding 2’ plant with yellow toned flowers, ‘Patriot Series’, many colors on 3-5’ mounds and ‘Samantha’ which has gold variegated foliage and yellow flowers.
‘Popcorn’ is a small trailing lantana a foot high and it has white flowers with yellow centers. ‘Trailing Lavender’ has lavender and pink flowers.
Did
you know Oregano and marjoram are the same plant?
Without
getting into all the fine points of the matter, marjoram is a species of
oregano, and both are in the mint family. Oregano is an excellent culinary herb
and has ornamental and medicinal properties also. While oregano is hardy, it’s close
cousin marjoram, is not hardy in Michigan.
Like most
mints, oregano has square stems. The oval leaves may be hairy in some varieties
of oregano, and the flowers range from white to purple- red. The flowers appear
in clusters at the end of stems in late summer. Several ornamental varieties of
oregano have been developed; check the zone hardiness of these before purchasing.
Common oregano is winter hardy to at least zone 5 and it is a robust grower,
spreading by seed and runners.
Oregano is
one of the Mediterranean herbs that prefer sunny, dry conditions to develop the
best taste. It needs full sun and well-drained soil to do its best. Oregano
seldom has pests and requires little or no fertilization. Large clumps of
oregano should be divided every 3-4 years. Give the plants you don’t want to
friends.
Oregano can
be started from seed, either where it is to grow after danger of frost has
passed, or in pots. It is easily started from cuttings or dividing mature
plants. Most gardeners will want to start with plants grown from cuttings of
good specimens of oregano as there is a wide variation in plants grown from
seed, both in size and form, and in taste. Unless you are growing an ornamental
flowering variety of oregano, keep the flowers of oregano trimmed off. This
keeps the plants producing the young tender leaves that are best for cooking.
Using
oregano
Oregano is
high in anti-oxidants and vitamins and has antibacterial properties also, using
it in recipes could improve your health. Oregano has a sharp, spicy, robust
flavor that is preferred in Italian, Greek, Mid-eastern and Latin American
cooking. It is often used in tomato dishes, seafood and grilled meats. What
would pizza sauce be without oregano?
Harvest
fresh leaves from oregano when there is enough foliage so that you don’t need
to harvest more than a third of the plant at a time. Whole oregano plants can
be pulled in the fall and hung to dry, then the dried leaves removed and
stored. You can also dry oregano leaves any time during the growing season. The
flavor of oregano remains strong when dried.
Oregano
varieties with showy flowers are used in perennial borders, on sunny banks and
in containers. They are very attractive to bees and can be used to attract
pollinators to the garden.
Teas using
oregano are said to aid digestion. The flower heads of oregano were formerly
used both as a dye plant, giving a pale purple dye, and in making beer. They
are also used as flavorings for wine and vinegar. New research with oregano
focuses on its anti-microbal, antibacterial properties. A film made with an
extract from oregano and apples is being tested on foods like poultry to
prevent salmonella contamination.
 |
| Oregano 'Zorba Red' |
Some varieties
Oregano,
Origanum vulgare, comes in many varieties. Greek oregano, hardy to zone 5, and
Kaliteri oregano, hardy to zone 6,( protect with mulch or grow in a protected
place in Michigan), are two good culinary choices. Kent Beauty oregano has
large attractive rose- purple flowers, fairly good oregano taste and is hardy
to zone 6. The Zorba oreganos were developed for their large, attractive flower
sprays of white or red. They bloom continuously through the summer, have an
attractive full plant form, fairly good flavor, and are hardy to zone 5.
Throw a sweater on you – and the
plants
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share?
Post them here by emailing me. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
Here’s a seed/plant
sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/
A new herb group is forming!
The Lapeer Herb
Circle will meet the 2nd Wednesday of the month at Rebekah’s Health
and Nutrition Store, 6 pm. at 588 S.
Main, Lapeer ( next to Office Depot).
They also have a facebook page you can join.
New- Learning about
Lavender workshop Saturday, May 23, 2015, 11 am -Marguerite DeAngeli Library,
921 West Nepessing St., Lapeer MI
Lavender expert Iris
Lee Underwood will share with participants the history of her lavender farm and
how her love of lavender began. She will also discuss how to grow lavender, the
benefits and uses of lavender, as well as the importance of learning to live
sustainably on our land.
Call the library at
810 664-6971 to register for this program.
Here’s a link to
classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North
Branch. Now open.
Here’s a link to
programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.
Here’s a link to
classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined
with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a link to
classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and
Brighton locations
Here’s a link top
events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor,
Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden
Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a link to all
the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden,
Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/
Here’s a link to
events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Back Track To Nature offers the
following programs to inspire you and deepen your relationship with
nature! In partnership with the Lapeer Land Conservancy and Seven Ponds Nature
Center these programs are a perfect way for families and adults to enjoy the
outdoors.
JUNE 2015
Learn in the Garden Tour - A
Visit to Three Roods Farm
Monday, June 1,
2015 9:30AM to
11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
4821 One Acre Drive,
Columbiaville, Michigan 48421
In this tried and
true farm and garden tour we will discover what’s growing at 3RF and learn the
meaning of CSA. See what goes into managing a beehive, discover how
permaculture garden design uses the inherent qualities of plants and animals
combined with natural characteristics of the landscape, and visit with the chickens, ducks and peahens
all living in harmony with one another. Dress for the weather. No admittance
fee. Please call 810-969-1023 to register,
children under 17 must be accompanied by a registered adult.
The History of the Land Series -
Introduction to Land Stewardship
Thursday June 4,
2015 6:00PM to
8:00PM
Entrance and parking
is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan In this
History of the Land Series, our focus will be on land stewardship of the
Tibbits property. You will gain valuable
information and understanding about what a land steward is required to do: we
will discuss how to monitor property, identify encroachments both the animal an
human impact and show you how to perform trail maintenance and identify
invasive species. Join Karen Page land steward, at the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and
under are free. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least
3 days prior to reserve your spot.
Wild Springtime Tea Party
Saturday, June 13,
2015 10:00AM to 12:00PM
Cassie M owner of Hilltop
Barn will guide us through field and forest to show us how to identify native
plants and brew up some tasty teas and learn the how wild edibles are
beneficial to your overall health. Please contact Karen Page at 810-969-1023 to
register, children 17 and younger must be accompanied by a registered adult. No
admittance fee and donations accepted. Please park in the designated parking
area.
Living with Less: Talk and Tour of
the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Saturday, June 13,
2015 1:00PM to
3:00PM
4107 Columbiaville
Road, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421 Rewire your brain to repurpose, reuse,
recycle, harvest rainwater and grow your own foods, begin a new lifestyle
recreated by living with less, Tibbits Nature Sanctuary owner Clark Tibbits
will share his successful experiences creating a life long choice to live on
less. A step you can make toward a living with less can be as simple as adding
a rain barrel and a square foot garden to your home landscape. Back Track To
Nature owner Karen Page, will demonstrate how to harvest rainwater and grow
your own food in a small spaces. Please
call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a
registered adult. Follow the signs and park in the designated parking area.
The History of the Land -
Introduction to Wetland Restoration
Monday, June 15,
2015 9:00AM to 11:00AM
and 6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking
is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan. In
this History of the Land Series we will explore, observe and study the wetlands
and learn about rich and exciting varieties of wildlife and plants, focusing on
water lilies, Today, this wetland is cared for by the Lapeer Land Conservancy
but it could have been in the backyard of the famous painter Monet who in 1890
developed his own outside studio where water lilies influenced his paintings.
Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free. Dress for the weather. Groups of 5 or more
please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days before to reserve your spot.
Change of the Season – A Guided
Nature Walk
Saturday, June 27,
2015 9:30AM to 11:30AM and
3:30PM to 5:30PM
Entrance and parking
is located across from 4090
Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan Join us for a guided nature walk on
the trials of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land
Conservancy property. Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides.
Dress for the weather. This is a walking tour on uneven terrain. No Admittance
fee. Groups of 5 or more please call 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to this
walk.
Learn in the Garden Tour - Planting,
Composting and Water Harvesting
Monday, June 29,
2015 9:30AM to 11:30AM
and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
In this tried and
true garden tour you will learn basic techniques, of planting, composting and
water harvesting to promote sustainability and keep your own garden growing in
abundance. This farm and garden tour will be held at Three Roods Farm at 4821 One
Acre Drive, Columbiaville Michigan. Dress for the weather. Class size is
limited to 15, children 17 and under must be accompanied by a registered adult.
No admittance fee. Call 810-969-1023 to reserve your spot.
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the
opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or
business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I
love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research
each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a
hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive
these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive
these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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