Kim’s Weekly Garden
Newsletter February 4, 2014
These
weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted,
and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent
any other individual, group or organizations opinions.
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| Ismene- Photo by Christine Haworth |
Hi Gardeners
Another storm is blowing in
tonight. Hopefully this one will spare
us from deep snow but at this point any snow is unwelcome. February has always been my least favorite
month and this one doesn’t look like it’s going to change my mind. I am glad I am no longer making those long
trips on Saturdays to teach Master Gardener classes although I do miss
discussing gardening with eager enthusiastic people.
The groundhog saw his shadow which
means 6 more weeks of winter but that shouldn’t come as a surprise to
anyone. Spring can’t come fast enough
for me and I know many of you feel the same.
I just need to sit in the sun- I did for a short time yesterday- and sun
is in such short supply this year. At
least I have my canaries singing to cheer me up.
Last year my notes say that this week
in Feb. was pretty cold but by the 10th it was 45 degrees and from
then on through the month almost every day was above freezing. March wasn’t real warm last year but most
days were above freezing and it was in the 50’s at the end of the month. Let’s hope this year starts to be like last
real soon.
If you are willing to brave the cold
and deep snow you could start pruning any fruit trees that need it. You could also prune any damaged trees. But I think you can safely wait a few weeks
in this weather to get those trees pruned.
Instead concentrate on cleaning up and re-potting house plants, starting
cuttings and seeds and ordering new plants and seeds.
February Almanac
The names for the full moon in February,
(the 14th), reflect the bleakness associated with the month. It is called the Full Snow moon, Hunger moon
and Bone moon among other things.
Jupiter can be seen just above the moon on the 10th and
Saturn is just above the moon on the 22nd . The bright star near the moon most of the
month is Regulus.
Good days for planting above ground
crops are 1,2, 10,11 and below ground crops, 20, 21.
If you want to go ice fishing try now through the 14th.
February is National Adopt a Rescued
Rabbit Month, American Heart Month, Marijuana Awareness Month, National Bird
Feeding Month, National Cherry Month, National Grapefruit Month, and National
Bake for Your Family Month.
Tomorrow, the 5th is National Pancake Day. Friday, February 7 is Wear Red Day. (Now why didn’t they combine that with Valentine’s
day? Do we wear red because we are seeing
red because of all the snow and ice?)
The 12th is Lincolns Birthday, Darwin Day and also Plum
Pudding day. The 14th is
Valentine’s Day as well as National Condom day, and for those who don’t
celebrate Valentine’s day, it’s also National Library Day. The 15th is Susan B. Anthony’s
Birthday. Then we observe Presidents Day
on the 17th. Tortilla Chip day is the 24th,
National Pistachio day is the 27th .
And the last day of the month is National Public Sleeping Day, have fun
with that.
The February birth flower is the
violet, which symbolizes faithfulness, humility and chastity. African violets are being featured in many
stores in February and make a good gift for a gardener. The February birthstone is the Amethyst.
As a young gardener I collected many
different colors of violets and had a violet collection in the backyard of our
home. I still have several types and
colors of violets in my gardens and this spring I have decided to add some more
unusual ones. Here’s an article that
might encourage you to add violets to the garden.
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| Common violet. Notice round leaves. |
Growing Violets- the February ‘birth” flower.
Violets and violas can be found both in
gardening handbooks and in weed identification books, proof that one man’s weed
is another man’s flower. These pretty
flowers have been grown in gardens for centuries, even if they were never
planted there!
Both violets and violas grow in many
locations across the world, although most prefer cooler areas. Many varieties escape cultivation and become
pests. But how can you dislike such
perky invaders? There are only slight
differences in violets and violas and all violets belong to the viola
family. Violet leaves are generally
round or heart shaped. Viola leaves are
more oblong, and usually have serrated edges.
Both violets and viola flowers have
five petals and a flower “spur” or tube at the back which contains nectar. Most violet flowers are very fragrant, some
violas however, have little scent. The
flowers are favorites of bees and butterflies.
Many violets and violas also have markings on the petals that direct the
pollinator to the honey spur, when they find the treasure they also pollinate
the plant.
Violets and violas also have another
type of flower, rarely seen. It
generally appears at the base of the plant in the fall, has no petals and no
scent. It is thought to be pollinated by
ground beetles and can produce many seeds.
Using violets in the garden
Violets and violas make excellent, fast
growing groundcovers in partial shade.
They can be planted in rock and alpine gardens. They will quickly cover an area if you let
them, so care and forethought should be used in selecting a site to plant them
in. Violets make excellent container
plants, good for cool season color.
While they will grow in heavy shade,
violets and violas both require at least a few hours of sunlight or dappled
shade for the best bloom. They will
also grow in sunny areas, if they are kept well watered.
Common violets and Labrador violets are
hardy to zone 3- some varieties from Asia and southern Europe are not as hardy,
so check the zone hardiness before planting.
While most violets and violas are considered perennials, individual
plants are not long lived. Most
varieties of violets and violas, however, spread by rhizomes and seed quite
happily, and after you plant them in a suitable place, you should have them for
many years.
Violet care
Violets are usually purchased as
plants. They can be planted at any time
of the year as long as they are kept moist.
While violets like fertile, loose, well-drained soil the common violet
will grow just about anywhere it isn’t too hot and dry.
Violets are rarely started from
seed. The seed can be sown outside where
they are to grow as soon as the soil can be worked. Violet seed can also be started inside about
12 weeks before you want blooming plants.
The seed is very fine and should not be covered with soil, just lightly
pressed into the soill surface and kept moist.
Violets bloom best in cool
weather. During hot weather they will
quit blooming but will resume bloom again when the weather cools. Keep dead blooms picked off to encourage a
longer bloom time. Wild species seldom need fertilizing but domesticated
varieties of violets appreciate an early spring application of a slow release
fertilizer. Violets are bothered by few
pests or diseases. Common violets will
stand occasional mowing and naturalized violets can be mowed after spring
blooming has faded. Lightly fertilize
them in early fall and cease mowing for fall bloom.
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| Viola- notice leaves. |
Some varieties of violets
The common violet , viola odorata, appears in many color
variations, even in the wild. There are
white, rose, bi-colored, blue and various shades of purple that we call
violet. This violet is also known as Sweet
Violet, and during Victorian times many large flowered varieties were developed
for cut flowers and for the perfume trade.
Some of these varieties still exist and are sold in specialty
catalogs. Queen Charlotte has large, deep purple flowers. Governor Herrick has purple flowers with
long stems for cutting. White Czar
has large white flowers. Bride’s White has smaller white flowers,
lightly blushed with pink. Classy Pink is a newer variety and has
deep pink flowers.
Double flowered violets are so pretty
and very fragrant but many are only hardy to zone 7. They can be grown in pots and taken inside to
a cool room in the winter, where they can bloom off and on all winter. Two great ones are Comte de Brazza, white, and Duchesse
de Parme- light violet colored.
Birds Foot Violet
is native to North American woodlands.
It has a pretty lilac and white flower and oddly lobed leaves, said to
resemble bird’s feet. Another North
American native, known as the Woods
Violet, has yellow flowers. The Labrador violet has pretty purple shaded
foliage as well as tiny violet flowers and is hardy to zone 3.
The Asian violets often have larger,
more oblong leaves and the leaves are often quite striking in color. ‘Silver
Samurai’ has ruffled green foliage streaked with silver and light lavender
flowers. ‘Fugi Dawn’ has arrow shaped leaves touched with pink and cream,
and deep blue flowers.
Violets and violas are sometimes
crossed and the resulting hybrids make excellent perennial garden plants. Molly
Sanderson which is a deep purple flower that is almost black and Etain which has a pretty pale yellow flower with purple edges are
two commonly sold hybrids.
There are many violets out there that
are “pass along” plants, color sports gardeners have found and passed among
themselves. Search for them at plant
swaps and start your own collection.
Other uses for violets
The flowers and leaves of violets and
violas are edible and make excellent additions to spring salads. The flowers can be crystallized in sugar and
used as decorations on cakes. Both
violets and violas had many medicinal uses in the past. They are high in vitamin C and a compound
called rutin. Rutin is being studied for
its beneficial effects on veins and arteries, making them more flexible and
strong. Violet water has long been used
as a skin tonic.
Violet and viola flowers lend their
color and scent to many liquids, the flowers can be soaked in vinegar, or a
light cooking oil and the resulting fluid used in cooking. Wine is also made from violet and viola
flowers. Think what excitement a
Michigan violet wine could cause!
DDT exposure increases the risk of Alzheimer's disease
New evidence comes from a study done at
Rutgers University that exposure to the long banned pesticide DDT in your early
years may contribute to a higher incidence of Alzheimer’s disease in people
over 60. People with a gene variant ApoE gene (ApoE4), had an even higher risk of
developing Alzheimer’s after DDT exposure.
When DDT breaks down in the body it
leaves behind a chemical compound called DDE.
Even though DDT has been banned from use in the US for more than 30 years
75-80 % of blood samples collected by the CDC contain DDE. DDT and DDE were found to increase amyloid
proteins in the brain which cause the brain symptoms associated with Alzheimer’s. Alzheimer’s patients have usually have higher
levels of DDE in their blood, up to 4 x higher than people without Alzheimer’s.
You were probably exposed to DDT as a
child if you are over 40 as it was a popular pesticide thought to be harmless
to people until it was banned in the 70’s. If you were exposed you have DDE in your body.
DDT persists in the environment and
collects in the fatty tissues of animals and a small amount of the pesticide is
probably still being ingested right here at home. But your greatest risk of additional exposure
is when you eat fruits and vegetables that were grown in countries which still
use DDT as an agricultural pesticide or which use it to control
mosquitoes. To avoid adding more DDE to
your body you may want to eat local, or at least grown in the USA produce.
The recent research results were posted
in JAMA Neurology by Rutgers Biomedical and Health Sciences.
Birch bark heals wounds
The white layer of bark peeled from
Birch trees has long been used in healing wounds by both Native Americans and
European healers. Now modern research
has found the active compounds in birch bark that promote healing. Research done at the Institute of
Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Freiburg, Germany, involved two chemicals,
betulin and lupeol, extracted from birch bark.
When these compounds are applied to wounds they cause cells involved in
healing to migrate to a wound site and repair it.
It’s encouraging that modern science is
finding so many traditional healing plants actually do have beneficial
qualities.
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| Ismene- Christine Haworth. |
Hymenocallis or Ismene - a bulb for containers
The beautiful photo’s in this
newsletter come from my sister- in- laws garden in Australia, where it is now
summer. But gardeners here in the States
can also grow these beautiful, and wonderfully fragrant plants although they
are not cold hardy here in Michigan. You
may find them listed under Hymenocallis or Ismene as the genus was split in two
in 1990. Not only has the official
classification of the plants wavered back and forth but many botanists argue
over which species belongs where. But
don’t concern yourself with the official classification too much, as the
varieties sold in commercial catalogs are generally hybrids of several species.
Common names can be a bit confusing
too. They are known as Inca Lilies,
Peruvian lilies or Peruvian Daffodils as many of the species come from South
America. They are also known as Summer
daffodils and Spider Lilies but both of these names are likely to get them
confused with true late blooming daffodils and the lycoris plant, also known as
Spider lily. I prefer to call them
Ismene.
However you name them these are an
interesting, beautiful and uniquely fragrant plant any gardener can enjoy. They are related to the amaryllis and
northern gardeners should probably treat them much the way they do amaryllis
bulbs. They can be hardy outside in
zones 8 and higher.
Ismene has rounded strap like leaves
similar to amaryllis. In summer clusters
of white flowers arise on stems about the size and shape of a large trumpet
daffodil. The “cup” of the flower has
long feathery petal extensions sticking out around it- which accounts for the
spider nickname. There is also a soft
yellow variety called Sulphur Queen. The flowers are intensely fragrant, smelling
of a blend of vanilla and lemon.
Unfortunately the flowers only last a few weeks but by staggering the
planting of bulbs you can get a longer bloom time.
Care of Ismene
Ismene is sold as bulbs, although they
can be grown from seed. Generally the
bulbs are sold in the spring in the US, although they could be planted in pots
at any time. You could plant them directly
in the garden after all danger of frost has passed but in zones below 8 it is
recommended that you plant them in pots.
The pots could be sunk in the garden and then when cold weather arrives
the pots could be brought inside to warmer conditions to preserve the bulbs.
Plant 3 or 4 Ismene bulbs in a large, 10-12
inch diameter pot. Use a non-soil,
fertilizer enriched potting medium for best results. The pot must have good drainage. It should also be deep enough to plant the
bulbs twice as deep as they are tall.
Keep the pot well watered and in a sunny place and you should see blooms
in 6-8 weeks.
Just like amaryllis Ismene will rest
between bloom periods and slowly increase in the pot, forming larger clumps
with more flowers each year. They should
be potted up in larger pots only when the bulbs and roots have crowded the
pots. You can carefully remove bulbs
from the clumps every year or so to start new pots also. Lightly fertilize pots each spring.
To store Ismene in a dormant condition
keep the pots in a place above 60 degrees in low light and let them dry out
when the leaves start turning yellow. Like
amaryllis the leaves need to die back naturally in good strong light as they
are making food for next season’s blooms.
If the Ismene blooms in the summer outside it may also bloom in the
winter inside, after a dormant period, if you have a temperature between 65-75
degrees with bright light.
You can use Ismene in pots of other
tropical bulbs or plants that bloom at various times for an interesting patio
container. They are excellent for small
greenhouses and make good winter cut flowers if potted up in late fall.
Keep the bird feeder stocked, and find
a cozy spot to watch the birds.
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
More Information
Tree damage from the December 2013 ice storm: Assessing
damage
Proper care is needed to ensure
long-term health of damaged trees.
Posted on January 31, 2014 by Bert Cregg, Michigan State
University Extension, Departments of Horticulture and Forestry
Extreme cold weather associated with a
series of Arctic blasts has dominated our weather news since the first of the
year. For most homeowners in mid-Michigan, however, the most significant and
lasting impacts of this winter will be due to the Dec. 21-22, 2013, ice storm
that coated trees with up to an inch of ice across a wide area between Lansing,
Mich., and Flint, Mich. As we’ve noted in related articles, this storm damaged
hundreds of thousands of trees. Most of the ice damage to trees was high crown
breakage, though some trees split or lost major limbs as well.
So far, our continuing cold and snowy
conditions have precluded many homeowners from dealing with trees damaged by
the ice storm. Once our weather warms up, homeowners will begin to venture
outside and assess the damage from the storm. Proper pruning and care of
damaged trees is important for safety and for the long-term health of the
trees. If damaged trees are not properly pruned, several problems may ensue.
Trees may experience severe dieback, resulting in dead limbs that may fall
later.
Some trees may also produce prolific
sprouts or “suckers” along limbs that have been damaged. These newly-formed
limbs are often weak and poorly attached to the tree and may be prone to
failure during future storms. Broken limbs that are hung up in trees are a
hazard since they may fall later. Lastly, proper pruning and tree care can help
to reduce the likelihood that broken limbs will become infected with disease
pathogens than can further damage or kill the tree.
Here are some common questions that are
likely to arise as homeowners inspect their trees.
Can this tree be saved?
Deciding whether or
not a tree is too severely damaged to be saved is often a difficult question.
Key considerations include the extent of the damage, tree age, tree condition
and proximity of targets if the tree should go downhill and subsequently fail.
The National Arbor Day Foundation has a very useful illustrated guide for
assessing trees after a storm.
Can
I prune or repair this myself?
Everyone has a
different comfort level for do-it-yourself projects based on their experience
and equipment. My personal rule of thumb is if I can’t reach a limb from a
ladder or with a pole pruner, I’m leaving it for a professional. Below are some
additional factors to consider before tackling the job yourself.
- High hanging limbs or tops are
especially dangerous. Old timers called these “widow-makers” for a reason.
A limb may have been caught up in a tree for weeks or months, but it
doesn’t mean it can’t come down when you least expect it.
- Do not attempt to remove limbs
near utility lines.
- If the tree or limb falls, what is
it likely to hit? In a humorous insurance commercial, a homeowner drops a
large tree limb on his neighbor’s car. I’m pretty sure this situation is a
lot less funny in real life.
- Use proper personal protective
equipment (PPE). A professional arborist would never do any overhead tree
work without a hardhat and eye protection; why would you?
- There is no shame in erring on the
side of caution. Lots of homeowners have ended up regretting taking on a
tree job that went bad; few people regret calling a professional.
Hanging limbs are extremely dangerous and should to be removed by a
professional arborist.
Leave it to the pros. Never attempt to prune or remove limbs around
utility lines.
Photo credits: Bert Cregg, MSU
Photo credits: Bert Cregg, MSU
How
do I find a quality tree service company?
The International
Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
is the professional association for arborists and hosts a searchable Find a Tree Care Service feature on its website. In order
to be ISA certified, arborists must pass exams and receive continued training
to maintain their certification,
In addition to ISA
certification, make sure that any tree service company you use is insured. I
have spoken with homeowners in the Lansing, Mich., area that have been approached
by individuals offering to do tree work from as far away as Louisiana. In some
cases, these doorknockers are honest folks trying to make a buck, but in other
cases they may be unscrupulous individuals exploiting a homeowner’s misfortune.
In either event, it’s a liability nightmare waiting to happen if the person
damages your property or your neighbor’s and then disappears.
It’s no secret that
quality tree care work is not cheap. Remember, like all things in life, you get
what you pay for. Reputable arborists have to pay to train and retain quality
employees, maintain their equipment and pay for insurance.
What
questions should I ask my arborist?
Most arborists have
standard contracts that cover most common situations, but asking questions and
getting things in writing can help eliminate miscommunications. Before signing
a contract, be sure to find out if the quoted price includes debris removal or
stump grinding, if desired, and when work will be completed. Ask for proof of
liability insurance and ISA certification if the tree service doesn’t volunteer
it.
Article edited for this newsletter.
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know
if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other
gardeners. These events are primarily in
Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an
event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an
association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming
a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you
have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me at kimwillis151@gmail.com
New- "Practical
Knowledge for the Avid Gardener" St. Clair County Master Gardeners
Annual Spring Symposium Saturday, March 22, 2014, Cornerstone Church, 4025
North Road, Clyde, MI 48049.
Speakers include
Dan Heims, Pearl Fryar, David Culp & Fergus Garrett. Early Bird
Registration is $80.00 and includes all speakers, breakfast, lunch snacks and
shopping. After February 21 the cost will be $90. Contact sanderan51@yahoo.com.
for a brochure.
2014 Know and Grow Seminar- Saturday, February 22nd, 2014 -
8:15AM, Bullock Creek High School Auditorium, 1420 Badour Rd. Midland, MI
48640.
Early registration fee: $60.00,
After February 7th, 2014 $75.00
This seminar is
hosted by the Midland Master Gardener Association. It includes speakers Rick
Darke “Balancing Natives and Exotics in the Garden”, Dan Heims “Garden Gems”,
and Janet Macunovich “Pluses and Minuses of Gardening in Zone 5” .
There is a garden marketplace and lunch is included in the cost.
Get a registration
flyer and more info at http://media.wix.com/ugd/a6644a_813a73b611d74331a99e3e7512baa553.pdf
To REGISTER BY
PHONE call Dow Gardens at 631-2677 or
1-800-362-4874. Please have your credit card information ready.
Getting Started with Selling at Farmers
Markets Webinar- February
19, 7:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m. Cost $10.00
This two-hour Adobe
Connect webinar is part of the ongoing “2014 Beginning Farmer Webinar Series.”
MSU Extension educator Julia Darnton will present information for those
interested in selling their product successfully at a farmers market. Topics
covered will include: choosing farmers markets at which to sell, negotiating
the rules and regulations of a market, market governance, creating a connection
with customers, setting up a stall as well as resources for practical tips on
tents, tables, displays, and cash handling.
Questions and discussion will take
place through the webinar ‘chat’ function. Supporting written materials will be
available for download during and after the webinar. A recording of the webinar will be made
available to registered participants.
Visit the Getting
Started with Selling at Farmers Markets registration page http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=GettingStartedFarmersMarket
for more information. Or you can contact Julia
Darnton: darntonj@anr.msu.edu or 989-758-2507
Establishing A Rain Garden – Matthaei Botanical Gardens, 1800
N. Dixboro Rd. Ann Arbor, MI 48105
Feb.12, 2014, 6:45 pm to 8:30 pm
Susan Bryan, Rain
Garden Coordinator for the Washtenaw County Water Resources Commissioner's
Office, discusses the benefits of rain gardens for the home garden and how they
help our rivers and streams. Program also includes how to build and plant one
at home using readily available tools. Presented by Wild Ones Ann Arbor. Free.
Call 734-647-7600 for more information.
Third Annual Integrated Pest Management
(IPM) Academy - Feb. 18-19, 2014, at the Okemos Conference Center in Okemos,
Mich., located just outside of East Lansing, Michigan
The 2014 IPM Academy is
a two-day workshop packed full of information to help you improve your IPM
practices and take advantage of all the great resources MSU has to
offer. The presenters at this program include a number of MSU’s best and
brightest research
and Extension faculty, offering a rare opportunity to hear from experts working
in a variety of disciplines and cropping systems at a single event.
The first day of the program will cover fundamental topics, including
IPM strategies for disease and insect control; promoting and protecting
pollinators; alternative weed control strategies; pesticide basics; the impacts
of weather on pesticides; invasive pests; and IPM resources from MSU. On the
second day of the workshop, participants opt into two, half-day sessions
focused on the topic of their choice.
The cost of this event is $225. Please note that snacks, lunch and
parking are included. Participants also receive a notebook with program
material and a complimentary IPM-related MSU bulletin. Michigan pesticide
recertification credits and Master Gardener credits will be available.
Newsletter information
If you would like to pass
along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please
send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you
have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that
you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full
name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very
open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to
publish what I want.
Once again the opinions
in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or
business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I
love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research
each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a
hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive
these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive
these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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