Gardening Granny's Gardening Pages

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Fall flowers

Hi Gardeners

It was cloudy this morning but quite balmy when I went to the barn to feed. I shut off the furnace and opened the windows when I came back inside. I wish the warmer weather could last but this weekend is predicted to be cooler again.

Robins are everywhere in the yard and around our pond and pastures. They are migrating through I think and are eating the wild grapes and berries on the woody nightshade and Virginia creeper. Most of the Autumn Olive berries are already gone. I am still hearing red winged blackbirds and seeing turkey vultures so migration isn’t finished yet.

Some of my plants were frost blackened last week but remarkably some soldier on. I even have a morning glory still blooming under the mulberry tree. Most of the dahlias have succumbed but one or two are still blooming. Even the fibrous bedding begonias I have in bowls in the front are still blooming nicely.

My potted Key Lime tree was very happy with its summer vacation outside and grew a couple feet. It has a few pretty blooms on it now and I am wondering if I will get some fruit. Some of the plants I brought inside are dropping leaves despite the fact I am supplementing their light with a grow light this year.

I added some Spanish Bluebells,( and pink bells) bulbs to the garden last evening and planted 50 tiny bulbs of Miss Wilmot, a crocus that is white with a true blue center. I also planted some Winter aconite and some additional tulips. I am now caught up with bulb planting until I get my back ordered bulbs. I can say that the freeze last week did not kill all the mosquitoes yet as I was attacked as I planted bulbs.

Fall leaf color will soon be at peak if it isn’t already. I have seen some pretty trees but many of my own trees don’t seem to be coloring as nicely as in other years. If we get heavy rain and wind tonight as predicted many leaves will be gone. If you want some pictures get them soon.

If you still have herbs to harvest better do that soon too. Remember your car makes a dandy herb dryer. Just let the herbs sit on the back window ledge in a brown paper bag while the car sits in the sun for a few days. Or you can tie up little bunches and hang them from the coat hooks most cars have behind the seats. It makes the car smell good too.

Grapefruit juice does help you lose weight

Grapefruit and grapefruit juice have been a part of many diets since dieting began. But now there is some research that actually proves grapefruit juice may help you lose weight and can lower blood sugar levels. A new study by the University of California, Berkeley found that mice which were given pulp free grapefruit juice slightly sweetened with saccharin gained less weight than mice drinking plain water sweetened with saccharin and their blood sugar levels were lower than the water drinking mice when fed a similar diet.

In a separate study mice were either given naringin, a bio-compound isolated from grapefruit or metformin, a drug commonly used to lower blood sugar in human diabetics. The naringin lowered blood glucose levels as much as the prescription drug. However, naragin alone did not improve weight loss, which according to researchers, suggests there is more than one active ingredient in grapefruit juice that helps with weight loss.

Some things to keep in mind about this study, before you load up on grapefruit juice are that it was done on mice and it was funded by the California Grapefruit Growers Cooperative. However the researchers insist the funding did not dictate how the research was conducted or what results were reported.

Another good thing about marijuana

If you are going to get in an accident that causes severe brain damage better hope you have some THC, a compound found in marihuana, in your system. Research published in the October edition of The American Surgeon studied 446 people with similar brain injuries. They found that those who had THC in their blood at the time of the accident (measured by a urine test) were more likely to survive the injury and less likely to suffer from permanent loss of brain function than those who did not have THC in their blood. This supports research done on animals that found THC had a protective function in brain injuries.

The research was conducted by the Los Angeles Biomedical Research Institute at Harbor-UCLA Medical Center. More research needs to be done to see if giving THC soon after a brain injury will improve the chances of survival and lessen brain damage.

A fungus that’s better than fertilizer

Researchers have found that a fungus is as good at increasing plant growth and greater root, flower and seed weight as commercial fertilizers, maybe better. It’s so good that a compound made with it has been patented. The fungus is Colletotrichum tofieldiae, which is isolated from the roots of Arabidopsis thaliana, which is a common plant used in research.

The research was done at Centre for Plant Biotechnology and Genomics, Madrid, Spain. Researchers are hoping that this natural “fertilizer” will prove very beneficial to organic as well as conventional crop growers.

Bulbs that bloom in fall

Gardeners are aware that they need to plant spring blooming bulbs in the fall but they may not know that there are some bulbs to plant in the fall that will actually bloom in the fall. These bulbs often bloom when other garden plants have faded and provide a needed burst of color to the garden. Most of these bulbs are easy to grow and once established will multiply and provide you with reliable show each autumn. Gardeners from zones 3 through 9 will be able to grow at least some of these bulbs.

There are four main types of fall blooming bulbs that are hardy in zones 5-6, the Cyclamens, the Colchicums, the Fall Crocus, and Sternbergia. Nurseries that sell other fall planted bulbs that bloom in spring will usually sell some of the fall bloomers, although some unusual species may be hard to find.

Cyclamen family

The Sowbread Cyclamen, C. hederifolium, sometimes sold as (C. neopolitanum) and the rarer Cyclamen cilicium are two members of the Cyclamen family that bloom in the fall. Other species of Cyclamen bloom in early spring or are grown in pots for the florist trade. Sowbread Cyclamen is much prettier than its name and is hardy to zone 5. It has pretty triangular shaped dark green foliage with silver spots and streaks that may appear before or after the plant blooms. The foliage often persists well into winter. In zone 5 C. hederiflolium usually blooms in September. The flowers are tiny pink “shooting star” versions of the familiar florist cyclamen. They will be put up in succession and last a long while in cool weather.

Sowbread Cyclamen corms (bulbs) are large- good bulbs will be 4-5 inches across. The bulbs are round with a slightly flattened top. They can be offered for sale in the spring or fall. Bulbs planted in the fall probably won’t bloom until the following fall. C. hederifolium doesn’t reproduce by splitting off new corms, rather the bulb itself gets bigger each year, eventually forming a large clump of foliage and flowers.

Cyclamen cilicium has heart shaped foliage of green mottled with a lighter color. The undersides of the leaves are purplish red. The tiny flowers are variable shades of deep pink to lighter pink with a red blotch at the center. If you can get close enough the tiny flowers smell like honey. C. cilicium is only hardy to Zone 6. Both Cyclamen species prefer light to partial shade and rich organic soil. They like to be dry in the summer.

Colchicum Family

Colchicum.

There are numerous species of Colchicum that can be grown in the garden including C. autumnale. C. bornmuelleri, C.Byzantium, C speciosum, C.cilicicum. There are also numerous hybrids and species variations. Most are hardy from zones 5-9 but some are hardy to as far north as zone 3. Some species have narrow crocus type foliage and others have broader, more strap shaped foliage. Depending on species the foliage may appear in spring and summer or after the plants bloom in the fall.

Colchicums have flowers similar to crocus but much larger. However there are double flowered varieties that look like either small peony flowers or water lilies. The flowers appear from the bare ground on long stems ( about 6 inches high). They range in color from white through shades of pink, carmine, mauve and lilac. Some species such as C.bornmuelleri and C.speciosum are fragrant. Flowers may be produced in succession and last well into freezing weather. Large groups make a fine show of fall color.

The bulbs of colchicums are large also and should be planted as soon as you receive them. They will often bloom even before you plant them, if you delay, and this isn’t good for the plants. Colchicums will thrive in sun or semi-shade and like good, organic soil. They spread in good conditions by making daughter bulbs and also though self- seeding. Ants like the seed coating and carry them into tunnels, effectively planting them. Colchicums are poisonous so are seldom eaten by wild animals. Make sure pets and children don’t eat the bulbs or other parts of the plant.

Crocus family

There are several species of crocus that bloom in the fall instead of the spring. They include the saffron crocus, C. sativus, from which the very expensive spice is made and other species such as C. speciosus, C. kotschyanus, C.laevigatus fontenayi, C. medius, C. ochroleucus. These have foliage and flowers much like the familiar spring flowering crocus. Most bloom in October in zone 5 and are hardy from at least zone 5-9 but check the zone hardiness when you purchase autumn blooming crocus.

Most autumn blooming crocuses have flowers that are shades of blue or purple or white. Plant the small bulbs as soon as you receive them and some will bloom the same year. Others will need a whole year to bloom so mark the spot. If they aren’t eaten by mice and squirrels which like them, crocus will multiply through new bulbs and through seed. You will get better blooming if large clumps are dug every 4 years, separated and replanted. Crocus will grow in full sun to partial shade and like sandy soil.

Sternbergia Lutea

There is only one member of this family that is fall blooming. Sternbergia flowers have 6 petals and look much like golden yellow crocus. In fact they are often sold as yellow fall crocus. They help to add yellow to the fall blooming bulb palette. The foliage of Sternbergia is broader than the narrow grass-like foliage of crocus. Sternbergia are only reliably hardy to zone 6. They prefer to be planted in full sun in a spot that will be dry in the summer.

Where to plant fall blooming bulbs

Since fall blooming bulbs have flowers close to the ground they need to be planted where mature perennials and annuals won’t block your view of the flowers. Rock gardens are good spots for them as is the very edge of a path. Low growing groundcovers like small sedums or thymes may allow the flowers to peek through. Since many won’t have foliage part of the year, even when they are blooming, you should mark the location that these bulbs are in so you won’t dig them up when planting other things.

If the fall blooming bulbs are planted under deciduous trees, watch that leaves don’t cover the flowers as they fall. After the flowers are finished however, it’s fine to rake a layer of leaves over them for winter protection. Fall blooming bulbs are a gardener’s special treat, something pretty and blooming when everything else is dying. Try some in your garden soon.

Cooking and canning pumpkins

Its fall and pumpkins are available locally. Most of the pumpkins on the market are going to be turned into Jack O’ Lanterns but pumpkin is used in a variety of dishes from soups to desserts. It’s tasty and good for you too. Why not turn some of the pumpkins you grew or bought at the market into some delightful dishes?

While pie type pumpkins are best for cooking, any pumpkin can be cooked. This article will give you the scoop on cooking, caning and freezing fresh pumpkins. Winter squashes can also be cooked, canned and frozen exactly like pumpkin.

Preparing pumpkin

Here’s how to prepare a pumpkin for fresh use in a recipe. Select ripe, firm pumpkins. Do not use pumpkins that have been frosted or frozen. Wash the pumpkin well under clean, running water. Cut the pumpkin in half. Scoop out the stringy goop and seeds in the center of the pumpkin. Save the seeds for roasting if you want.

Scrape the inner side of the pumpkin with the blade of a spoon until all the stringy matter is gone. Cut the pumpkin into 1 inch chunks unless you are roasting or grilling it. In those cases cut it into 3-4 inch chunks. Stand each chunk on end and slice off the rind or skin with a sharp knife. There is a color change between the hard rind and the fleshy part. Discard the rind.

Proceed with your recipe directions or see cooking tips below.

Cooking fresh pumpkin

There are two main ways to cook a fresh pumpkin. You can place chunks of prepared pumpkin flesh in a pan with enough water to cover them and cook on low heat until it is softened. Drain off the cooking water. For most recipes you will then mash the pumpkin with a potato masher, blender or even a spoon. In some soup recipes the pumpkin chunks will be cooked in other fluids.

You can also bake or grill larger pumpkin pieces. Lightly spray the grill or a cookie sheet with olive oil or a butter spray. Place the pumpkin pieces on it. Bake at 325º or grill on medium heat until the pumpkin is softened. Occasionally halved or quartered cleaned pumpkins are baked. Consult your recipe but generally baked and grilled pumpkin is also mashed or pureed.

Canning pumpkin

The easiest way to have cooked pumpkin on hand for recipes is to can it. This allows you the convenience of having cooked pumpkin for recipes throughout the year also. You will need a pressure canner to can pumpkin. When you can pumpkin at home you are making good use of a local and seasonal food source.

It is not safe to can mashed pumpkin as the center of the pumpkin in the jar is too dense to allow proper heating to prevent bacterial growth. It will be soft and easy to mash when you open the can to use it. Also add spices just before using the pumpkin for best flavor.

You will need 18-20 pounds of whole pumpkin to can 7 quarts of pumpkin. Clean and prepare pumpkin as outlined in the beginning of the article. Clean 7 quart jars, rims and lids in hot water and keep warm. Place the pumpkin chunks in a large pot and add water to cover them.

Bring the pot to a boil and then boil for 3 minutes. The pieces should still feel firm. Save the cooking water and keep it hot.

With tongs remove chunks of pumpkin and pack your jars with them to 1 inch from the top. Do not mash the pumpkin. Ladle the hot, saved cooking water over the pumpkin pieces, leave one inch of space at the top. Run a bubble stick through the jars to remove bubbles, wipe the rim and add the lid and screw band.

Place the jars in a pressure canner and process for 90 minutes. Set pressure on a dial gauge at 11 pounds at up to 2,000 feet altitude, 2000-4000 feet at 12 pounds, 4000-6000 at 13 pounds and above 6000 feet altitude at 14 pounds. For weighted gauges set them at 10 pounds up to 2000 feet altitude and 15 pounds above 2,000 feet altitude.

Remove jars and allow them to cool. Check seals and label before storage.

Freezing pumpkin

You can freeze chunks of pumpkin that have been blanched and finish cooking them later or you can cook, mash and season pumpkin before freezing. To blanch pumpkin cut it into chunks, and place the chunks in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain the pumpkin pieces and freeze in freezer bags or containers.

To freeze mashed pumpkin cook the pumpkin as described earlier in the article. Mash the pumpkin and put it in freezer bags or containers to freeze. You can season the pumpkin before freezing but not seasoning it before freezing allows you more flexibility later when you use it.

Now that you have some canned or frozen pumpkin to work with you can experiment with all of the great pumpkin recipes and surprise someone you love.

This week’s weed- White Sweet Clover

White sweet clover.

White Sweet Clover is found both in abandoned fields and roadsides and in cultivated fields. It’s an excellent cover crop, returning nitrogen to the soil, it is a good pasture plant when young, and makes fragrant, tasty hay. It prefers sunny locations.

White Sweet Clover can get up to 7 feet tall when conditions are good and nothing is eating it and spreads its strong stems out to look like a bush. It has the familiar 3 lobed leaf of most clovers and tiny white flowers clustered in spikes on the top of the plants. Bees like the flowers and make a nice flavored honey from it. There is a yellow flowered sweet clover also, although it doesn’t get to the impressive size White Sweet Clover does.

Both White and Yellow Sweet Clovers are not native plants, although they have naturalized across the country.

Plant some bulbs this fall. Believe in the future.

Kim Willis

“He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Grow your own garlic this fall

October is the ideal time to plant garlic for harvest next July.

Posted on October 10, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

While the impending Halloween holiday may bring to mind the fabled ability of garlic to ward off vampires, gardeners are more likely to be thinking of planting it in hopes of a good crop of savory garlic bulbs next year. Fall is the time to plant garlic for next year’s harvest.

Great garlic. Credit en.wikipedia.org

Most of the garlic found in supermarkets is the softneck variety, grown in warmer climates. Elephant garlic, also grown in warmer climates, is not true garlic, although it has a mild garlic flavor. It is actually more closely related to leeks. When it comes to growing garlic in cooler climates like Michigan, hardneck garlic is a more winter hardy choice. Hardneck varieties produce a flowering stalk (scape) while softneck varieties typically do not. The flowering stalks produce small, aerial cloves called “bulbils” that may be harvested and eaten. Flowering scapes may also be harvested and eaten just after they start to curl – they are excellent for stir fries. Hardneck garlic has fewer cloves, typically five to eight per bulb, than softneck garlic. Garlic is propagated by planting cloves. Half a pound of garlic for planting will usually provide enough for 15-20 plants.

It is best to purchase garlic from a producer. Good results are unlikely from planting garlic purchased at the grocery store. There are many garlic varieties to choose from. Two hardneck varieties that are recommended in Michigan are “Music” and “German White.”

Garlic prefers to grow in full sun and in well-drained soils that are high in organic matter – about 5 percent organic matter is ideal. The optimum soil pH for garlic is between 6 and 7. If the soil pH is below 5.8, lime is recommended. If you haven’t tested your soil within the last few years, Michigan State University Extension offers Soil Test Kit Self-Mailers for home gardens that can be purchased from shop.msu.edu. Limit the fall application of nitrogen to 25 pounds per acre of nitrogen (about 0.6 pounds per 1,000 square feet) as a pre-plant application. Follow the phosphorus and potassium recommendations of the soil test. Garlic has a moderate to high demand for nitrogen, so fertilizer can be incorporated before planting. Apply phosphorus and potassium according to soil test results and incorporate both before planting.

Planting in October will help get roots established before the ground freezes. Shoots may not emerge from the soil until the following spring. Separate the individual cloves no more than two days before planting. Plant them with the base of the clove 2-3 inches deep with the pointed end up. Row spacing may vary, but spacing 4 inches apart within rows is satisfactory. Spacing will depend on the size of your planting and the space you have available. Plants can be arranged in double rows 12 inches apart with spacing of 36 inches from the next set of double rows.

After planting, mulch with 3-4 inches of leaf or straw mulch. It will help with weed control, and will reduce fluctuating temperatures during the winter and early spring. Be sure to water in plants after you are done with the planting and mulching.

Make additional applications of nitrogen the following spring with 40 pounds per acre (0.9 pounds per 1,000 square feet) applied in March or early April when the garlic starts to grow, and another 0.9 ounces per 1,000 square feet around May 1. Don’t apply nitrogen after the first week in May or development of bulbs may be delayed. Garlic needs 1-2 inches of moisture per week while it is actively growing. Stop irrigation at least two weeks before the expected harvest date to avoid reducing garlic quality. Garlic bulbs are ready to harvest when 30-50 percent of the leaves have died back, usually sometime in July.

For more detailed information on growing garlic, go to the Gardening in Michigan website and download “Producing Garlic in Michigan” by Ron Goldy.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings

Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners. These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.

I have several free roosters, bantam and full sized if anyone is interested. Young, healthy. 3 month old muscovy mostly black ducklings for sale $5. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

New- Captivating Combinations Sat, October 18, 9am-1pm, MSU Extension-Oakland at Oakland Co. Exec. Office. 2100 Pontiac Lake Rd, Waterford Township, MI

Explore the basics of successfully combining plants. $20. Register: 248-858-0887.

New-Rare & Unusual Plants Mon, October 27, 7pm. First United Methodist Church 1589 W Maple Rd, Birmingham, MI

Sponsored by Metro Detroit Hosta Society and presented by Don Rawson. For more information contact Hgold2843@comcast.net

New- Michigan Bee keepers Association Fall Conference October24-25, 2014, Holiday Inn Gateway Center, 5353 Gateway Centre, Flint, Michigan

For those interested in beekeeping and pollination services, the Michigan Beekeepers Association is putting on their annual Fall Conference Oct. 24-25, 2014. This two-day event features workshops, a trade show, honey-judging contest, and keynote speaker David Hackenberg. Hackenberg is a premier beekeeper, pollinator-health advocate and speaker from Pennsylvania. In addition to having served as the president of the Pennsylvania State Beekeepers Association, the American Beekeeping Federation and as member of the National Honey Board, Hackenberg is the current chairman of the Honey Bee Health Advisory Board.

On both days, Michigan State University Extension specialist Walter Pett and MSU researcher Zachary Huang will be teaching how to identify and manage foul brood. On Friday, Oct. 24, Huang will also demonstrate how bees see differently from other animals and how this affects their pollination behavior.

Folks can pre-register online at a reduced cost or on site at full cost. Having a current 2014 MBA membership reduces the cost as well. Check your membership status and see below for the scale of registration fees. To pre-register:

http://events.r20.constantcontact.com/register/event?oeidk=a07e9sv5a4nfc702fb8&llr=vmpcb9dab

Note: Pre-registration will close Wednesday, Oct. 22, 2014.

Registration fees

Pre-Registered

MBA Member, 2-Day: $20

MBA Member, 1-Day: $10

Non-Member, 2-Day: $40

Non-Member, 1-Day: $20

Spouse/Guest, 2-Day: $10

Spouse/Guest, 1-Day: $5

Paid At-the-Door

MBA Member, 2-Day: $25

MBA Member, 1-Day: $15

Non-Member, 2-Day: $45

Non-Member, 1-Day: $25

Spouse/Guest, 2-day: $15

Spouse/Guest, 1-Day: $10

Volunteers are always needed and welcomed. Please contact Steve Tilmann, MBA Treasurer, at treasurer@mba-bees.org to volunteer.

New- Garbage to Garden, October 21, 2014, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. MSU Extension, 21885 Dunham Rd. Ste. 12, Clinton Twp., MI

This program is for community garden leaders and program planners, school garden leaders, urban farmers who are currently composting or would like to compost at their garden site and may be considering expanding to accept additional organic food waste from participating gardeners and local food establishments.

Agenda:

9 a.m.—12 p.m. Mid-scale Composting in your community garden

12—1 p.m. Lunch and Case study—conversations with community garden leaders

1—5 p.m. Michigan Master Composter Train the Trainer

Cost: $75 (includes registration, all materials and lunch)

Contact: Beth Clawson: 269-657-8213 clawsonb@anr.msu.edu or register on line at:

http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=garbagetogarden

New- Gardening for Bees & Other Pollinators Fri, October 24, 10-11:30 am 480 S Adams Rd, Meadow Brook Hall, Oakland University, Rochester, MI

Sponsored by Meadow Brook Garden Club. Prof. Rufus Isaacs speaks on the current status of honey & bumble bees. $5 fee. For more info. Call 248‑364‑6210.

New-Composting with Red Worms, November 6, 2014, 6:30 - 8 p.m. MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., MI

Macomb MSU Extension is presenting “Composting with Red Worms” on Thursday, November 6, 2014 at the Macomb MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., 48036 (Use Entrance E at the rear of the building). Join us from 6:30-8 p.m. for a free presentation on worm composting. Learn how to use worms to compost your food scraps. Master Composter volunteer Sarah DeDonatis will cover everything from the type of worms to use to the construction, care and maintenance of the worm bins.

Contact: Mary Gerstenberger, gerste10@anr.msu.edu, 586-469-6085

Please register in advance by calling 586-469-6440.

New- Prairie Seed Collecting, Sunday, November 2, 1:00 pm, Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200

Come out to our tall grass prairie to learn all about the prairie and its plants while collecting seeds for your own yard or garden. Bring some paper bags and a bucket if you plan on collecting seeds. $3 admission for non-members.

New- Skeleton Trees, Sunday, November 30, 2:00 pm, Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200

Now that most of the trees are bare let’s see if we can figure out which tree is which during this nature walk. $3 admission for non-members.

Smart Gardening Roadshow, October 16, 2014 5:30 - 9 p.m., Kettunen Center, 14901 4-H Drive, Tustin, MI 49688

Two classes in one night! Bright and colorful gardens using native plants in garden designs for eco-friendly gardening! Join Consumer Horticulture Educators Mary Wilson and Rebecca Finneran from Michigan State University Extension for an evening of fun! Bring your gardening friends, neighbors and spouse to learn the latest in Smart Gardening!

Greening the Garden… A Smart Gardener’s Journey

If you love plants and garden design, but find yourself making resolutions to “green your garden,” don’t assume that all things beautiful must be put out to pasture. During Finneran’s presentation, you will get ideas for plants and design that are water smart, pest free and low input!

Native Trees and Shrubs with Bling!

There are many reasons you might want native plants in your garden, yet a common perception is that they are drab and boring. Not so, as we’ll learn from Mary Wilson. Mary will share some of her favorites, both native species and their cultivars, for a bright and colorful garden in various seasons. No longer the step-children of the plant world, but those with attitude and bling!

Registration fee is $25.00 by Oct. 9, 2014. No refunds will be made after this date, but substitutions are welcome! On-site Registration is $35.00. Contact: Marybeth Denton: Denton.Marybeth@anr.msu.edu, 989-539-7805

Cottage to Commercial: Ingredients for a successful food business- Several locations and dates

Michigan State University Extension and MSU Product Center Educators will conduct four food business planning classes September through November in Berrien, Muskegon, Ingham and Kent County, Michigan locations.

The two-hour session addresses basic food processing, regulatory requirements, business development resources, and related topics. The program targets individuals who are interested in starting a licensed, commercial food business.

The Ingham County program will be held 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Thursday, October 16, 2014 at the Hilliard Building, Conf. Room B, 121 E. Maple, Mason, MI 48854. The fee is $20, and registration is available online through the Oct. 10. For details, call 517-526-7895.

The Kent County session is scheduled for 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2014 at Kent County MSU Extension 775 Ball Ave. N.E., Grand Rapids, MI 49503. The fee is $20 per person, and registration is available online through Nov. 4, 2014.

The MSU Product Center helps aspiring entrepreneurs and existing businesses to develop and launch new product and service ideas into food, agriculture, bioenergy and natural resources markets. A statewide network of Innovation Counselors is available to counsel individuals interested in starting related business ventures. Last year the MSU Product Center assisted 647 clients with business planning.

Those who are unable to attend one of the offerings are invited to request counseling with a field- based MSU Product Center innovation counselor at www.productcenter.msu.edu , or by phone at 517-432-8750 This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop, Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.

Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m. Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911

Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.

Newsletter information

If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.

Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

October 7, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

Hi Gardeners

One of my jungle windows.

I am surprised by the sun today, I expected another gloomy day. It’s been so gloomy I have hung plant gro lights over the houseplants on my porch and in front of the big window in the living room. I have used the new CFL grow lights which put out a lot of light for much less electricity cost than incandescent bulbs. I was tempted by LED growlights, which while expensive, use even less electricity than CFL bulbs and their red-blue light ratio is said to be great for plant growth. However people have told me that the light quality and brightness degrades rapidly and that they cover much less area per light than other bulbs.

If you have used LED lights for plant growing let me know your experience. I am not producing any “crops” just lighting blooming houseplants. I wanted to keep them blooming and not dropping leaves, as plants commonly do when moved inside to lower light levels.

I took some ordinary reflector light fixtures, the kind you hang in shops or over your baby chicks and spray painted the outer metal surface with matte finish hunters green spray paint. They make great inexpensive grow light fixtures. They can be clamped on a shelf or hung above plants.

I just came in from my garden where I harvested 5 nice sized yellow tomatoes. While my other tomato plants have died from various blights, this one plant Burpee’s Orange Wellington is still going strong. At one point it seemed to be succumbing to blight also, but it recovered and is now green and healthy looking, and still producing. It has large yellow, not orange fruit with a great taste. I highly recommend it.

The teeny tiny cyclamen flower.

I have a few things left blooming outside. The dahlias are still going strong. Marigolds, mums, fibrous bedding begonias, buddleia, sedum, and a few hardy hibiscus are in bloom. My ligularia is putting out a few new flowers down by the base. I have some colchicums in bloom and one teeny tiny cyclamen flower. Last fall I planted a sowbread cyclamen bulb that was 5 inches across and this year I got the one tiny flower. Hopefully it will put on a better show next year.

This week my garden task is to finish planting all the bulbs I ordered. Isn’t it funny how many bulbs you want to order compares with how many bulbs you are actually eager to plant when they arrive? But it is fun when they bloom in the spring.

October almanac- the moon gets spooky

Tonight is a full moon, called the Hunters moon, and one of this years’ so called blood moons. Early Wednesday morning there will also be a total eclipse of the moon, but it’s not going to be very visible here in the Eastern time zone. It will start about 4:15 am but won’t be totally eclipsed until 6:15 am- about the time the moon passes over the horizon or sets here. You can try to see it if the skies are clear by looking low in the southwest horizon. It’s perfectly ok to look at a moon eclipse; it won’t hurt your eyes. During a moon eclipse the moon will look reddish or brown.

Some astronomers list this month’s full moon as a super moon also. A super moon is when the moon is at one of its closest points to Earth and looks larger. The disagreement among astronomers comes from the way the distance is measured. Any way you look at it the moon should be somewhat larger looking tonight. So depending on your outlook the Hunters full moon is also a blood super moon with an eclipse. Now you got to see that!

Sept. 7,2006 partial lunar eclipse. Credit: geograph.org.uk

If you are outside sky gazing you may also want to look for the Draconid meteors which are at their peak right now. This meteor shower isn’t as frequent or showy as others but who knows what you might see. Look for the meteors in the northwest sky.

The Hunters moon is named such because at this time of year the moon rises early in the evening and stays bright until almost dawn, letting hunters easily track animals in the night. Unfortunately it’s now illegal to hunt most game animals after the sun goes down.

Octobers birthstones are the Tourmaline and Opal. October’s birth flower was the calendula originally, but now is listed as marigold. Calendulas were the “marigold” before the African plant we now call marigold was discovered. So now either calendula or marigolds is considered correct. The meaning in flower language is warm, undying and contented love.

October is National popcorn popping month, vegetarian month, seafood month, cookie month, pizza month, and applejack month. If you are not into food it’s also National Diabetes month, National adopt a shelter dog month, National Domestic violence awareness month and of course the most used and abused “cause” of all, Breast Cancer awareness month.

Holidays of note in October include the 10^th –World Egg Day, 13^th-Columbus Day (why are we still celebrating this one?) 14^th – National Dessert day, 18^th –Sweetest Day,(another stupid one), 21^st National Pumpkin Cheesecake day,22^nd – National Nut Day, 24^th –United Nations day (another thing that shouldn’t be celebrated, let’s just end that silly excuse of an organization) and then there’s two of the world’s favorite holidays, 30^th Devils night and 31^st Halloween.

New help for acne- time, Thyme, and wine?

Acne sufferers are often told that time will cure their affliction and it often does but now researchers have found that a tincture of Thyme oil has amazing effect on clearing up acne. Research done at Leeds Metropolitan University, UK, found that a tincture of thyme oil cured acne as well as prescription acne products did. The tincture applied to acne killed the bacteria on the skin that cause acne better than standard concentrations of benzoyl peroxide, which is used in almost all prescription acne creams.

Thyme.

Also tested were tinctures of marigold and myrrh which also showed good results in halting acne, although thyme was the most effective herb. Tinctures are made by steeping herbs in alcohol so researchers accounted for the antiseptic qualities of the alcohol in their findings. But this leads to another discovery made by the dermatology division of the UCLA medical school. They found that resveratrol, a substance found in red wine and grapes also had beneficial effects on acne, especially when it was combined with benzoyl peroxide.

Perhaps steeping thyme in red wine and then applying it to acne would be an even better and safer alternative than benzoyl peroxide, which does have side effects. You would put this on the acne affected areas of course, not drink the concoction.

Discovering new things about Monarchs

Being able to study the genome, or genetic structure of plants and animals has given us some amazing insights into nature. Researchers found that monarch butterflies who take that amazing migration flight from the north all the way to Mexico have a different gene than monarchs who don’t migrate. There are colonies of monarchs around the world that don’t migrate; only North American Monarchs take that amazing journey.

Researchers at the University of Chicago analyzed the genomes of many different communities of monarch butterflies from around the world, concentrating on genes that control muscles, neurons and development. They found one gene (IV α-1), involved in wing muscle development, caused migratory monarchs to use less oxygen and lower their metabolism in flight so that they could travel long distances. When monarch populations in an area did not migrate they had a different form of this gene. Monarchs who don’t migrate are generally found in warmer climates.

There is a group of monarchs in Hawaii who are black and white rather than black and orange and this monarch genome research also found the gene that causes the loss of the orange color. These monarchs vary from traditional orange monarchs by only one gene, which prevents expression of the orange pigment.

Researchers say that the overall population of Monarchs is not in danger but the population that migrates to North America may soon be lost. This special genetic adaptation is being lost because populations of migrating monarchs have dwindled due to climate change and habitat loss.

Plants use sugar to kill bugs

Humans love the sugar we get from various plant sources even though we know how very bad for us that sugar is. And the reason that sugar is bad for us may have something to do with what plants that manufacture sugar do with that sugar. Researchers at the Max Planck Institute for Chemical Ecology studied plants in the grass family such as corn. They found that plants manufacture chemical compounds called benzoxazinoids, which they use to kill insects that feed on them. They attach these natural pesticides to a molecule of the sugar they produce, because insects love sugar too.

The sugar molecule protects the plants from their own poison but once in the gut of the insect the sugar molecule detaches and the natural pesticide harms the insect that ate it. Of course some insects have developed resistance to plant pesticides over millions of years of co-evolution. The fall armyworm for example has developed defenses in the gut that put the sugar molecule back on the pesticide molecules in the opposite way that the plant attached them and that renders the natural pesticides harmless. It is then excreted from the insect.

Now this is speculation on my part but the newest nutrition research is finding out just how badly sugar screws up the human body. When we eat plant derived sugars in concentrated form, such as cane and beet sugar, we probably get a high dose of benzoxazinoids, substances produced by plants to kill insects. These plant compounds may be what causes obesity, heart disease, diabetes, and other woes which befall us due to high sugar consumption. Our bodies do not need sugars from any outside source to remain healthy. We can make our own glucose from carbs, fats and proteins. This also makes me wonder about the natural sweeteners such as stevia that are on the market.

A apple a day may help you lose weight- if it’s a Granny Smith that is

Here’s some interesting research. I don’t know how it fits with the research I just wrote about above, since apples contain fructose, a sugar molecule, which may just be associated with harmful plant poisons. But a study done at Washington State University and just published in the journal Food Chemistry, found that Granny Smith apples had a beneficial effect on weight loss.

Apples contain non-digestible fiber and polyphenols. When these fibers reach the human colon they are fermented by bacteria and benefit the good bacteria that regulate healthy metabolism. We now know that humans who are overweight have a different bacterial colony in their colon than those who remain lean. Those with diabetes and other metabolic disease also had different bacterial colonies than healthy people. Eating apples, particularly Granny Smith apples, can change the gut colony to bacteria that favor a healthy metabolism and weight loss.

Granny Smith apples were found to be far better at normalizing gut bacteria than other types of apples. Granny Smith apples have less sugar and more indigestible fiber than other apple varieties. There may also be other genetic factors that favor good gut colonies. Research done on mice found that the Granny Smith apples rapidly changed gut bacteria in a beneficial way. Researchers suggest that people eating one Granny Smith apple a day could help change gut bacteria and normalize metabolism so that it would be easier to lose weight. It sure wouldn’t hurt to try.

This weeks weed- wild grapes

In Michigan wild grapes are often spotted in the fall, when they are loaded with small purple, sour grapes. Birds and small animals feast on the bounty and there are seldom any left for the winter. Humans sometimes collect the small but perfectly edible grapes to make jelly and wine.

Grapes are native to several parts of the world. North America has several species of native grapes, the most common in Michigan being the Fox grape, Vitus labrusca or Frost Grape Vitus vulpina. Both have 3 lobed leaves, the Fox grape has more rounded lobes and the Frost grape has a more deeply serrated edge. Both grapes have leaves that are lighter and somewhat fuzzy on the underside.

Wild grapes.

Grapes form vines that climb into trees and may climb to the very top- 60 feet or more of a large tree. They also cover thickets and fences. Grapes climb by using tendrils, small modified stems that wrap around things like green wire. Wild grapes should be removed from landscape trees as they can overwhelm them and cause stunting or death. Grapes develop woody stems as they age and some very old vines may have stems a foot or more wide. The bark on older stems is composed of shaggy, loose strips. Wild grapes are very long-lived, with vines living to be a 100 or more years old.

Grapes flower in early summer and the small greenish white flower clusters have a pleasant aroma. Clusters of small green fruit develop that ripen into blue- black or purple-red grapes. Wild grapes are said to be sweeter after a frost, but many are gone long before that. Grapes can be found growing in the sun or shade, in many kinds of soil.

Grape leaves are used in cooking and the vines are used in many types of crafts. Grapes are also used medicinally- (not just as wine!)- as a laxative, and for liver and kidney problems. Grape leaves have been used on wounds to stop bleeding. Oil can be pressed from grape seed.

Katsura- The Caramel Tree

You don’t get caramels from it, but some think the wonderful Katsura tree smells like caramel or cotton candy when it loses it’s leaves in the fall. Besides being wonderful to smell in the fall, the Katsura sports a lovely blend of orange, raspberry and apricot colored leaves. The Katsura is no slouch in other seasons either. In the spring Katsura has reddish-purple new growth, in summer heart-shaped blue-green leaves, and in winter the gray, slightly exfoliating bark lends winter interest. This lovely shade tree is hardy throughout most of the United States and deserves to be planted more frequently.

The Katsura is native to Japan and eastern Asia, and is widely used as a landscape tree in those areas. The Latin name, Cercidiphyllum japonicum, refers to the leaves, which look like one of our native trees, the Redbud. Katsura leaves are blue-green, lighter below, and heart shaped. In the spring, the leaves emerge tinged with purple or red, and some trees hold a trace of color in their leaves throughout the summer. Katsura blooms in early spring, the flowers are not showy, and they are produced on separate male and female plants. On the female Katsura, the flowers turn into clusters of small pods, which open and release winged seeds in the fall. The pods and the seeds are not very noticeable and do not make a mess.

The shape of the Katsura tree is variable. Some are multi-stemmed with broad, flat crowns and others are single stemmed and more pyramidal in shape. There are also a few weeping varieties of Katsura. The trunks of young Katsura trees are thin barked, this becomes thicker, furrowed, and lightly peeling as the tree ages. Katsura trees have a distinct root flare and some roots are developed right at the surface of the soil, and can get quite large with time. These roots lend an architectural appeal to the Katsura form.

Katsura trees can mature to 40 feet or more. There is another species, Cercidiphyllum magnificum, even less seen outside of Japan, which is smaller in height but has larger leaves.

Growing Katsura trees

Katsura trees are hardy from zone 4-8. In the north they should be in full sun. In the south they will grow in light shade also. Katsura trees like moist, fertile, loamy soil. Katsura does well where the water table is high. They tolerate a wide range of soil PH.

Katsura tree. Credit: wikimedia commens

The roots are shallow and the tree must be kept well watered, especially when getting established. The biggest problem with the Katsura tree is they are a little tricky to establish. Once they settle in a place to their liking however, they grow rapidly.

Smaller trees transplant the best, and they should be planted when dormant in the early spring. Keep them well watered. If the Katsura experiences drought conditions it will lose its leaves. Usually the leaves will be replaced when water is again available, but if this happens frequently, you will probably lose the tree.

The thin bark of young Katsura trees are prone to sunscald and splitting in the winter. Protect young trees with tree wrap or shade on the south and west side during the winter. Tree tubes may help small Katsura’s establish easier.

Since the Katsura has roots close to the surface, deep mulch should be avoided. You can plant under the tree if care is taken not to cut too many roots. Before planting Katsura, remember that the tree may form surface roots and these might make mowing difficult.

After the first year an application of 10-10-10 or other tree fertilizer in early spring may help get the Katsura tree off to a good start. Katsura trees have few insect pests or disease problems and rarely require pruning.

The caramel, cotton candy, or brown sugar smell, [depending on your nose], comes in the fall, when the Katsura tree is losing its leaves. Most people find it quite pleasant. It is strongest in warm, sunny weather and can perfume the whole yard.

Choosing varieties.

Two weeping forms exist in Katsura. ‘Pendulum’ is upright, with a strong trunk and weeping branches. It is also sold as ‘Morioka Weeping’. Another type has no central trunk- it is more like a weeping bush. ‘Tidal Wave’ is one variety name of this type.

‘Heronswood Globe’ is a compact, rounded variety, seldom over 20’ high, that is good for small yards. Several varieties of Katsura exist which address fall leaf color. Most Katsura have variable fall color, with each tree having a somewhat different blend. ‘Strawberry’ Katsura has pink-red fall color and touches of pink in the spring leaf color. ‘Raspberry’ Katsura has wine-red fall color.

Using Katsura

Katsura makes an excellent shade or specimen tree. Once established, Katsura is a no-muss, no-fuss tree with great structure for the landscape. It is also a good choice as a street tree, where it could possibly be a good replacement for ash trees dying from Emerald Ash Borer.

Have you got your pumpkin yet?

Kim Willis

“He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Creatures that invade your home in the fall

By Kim Willis

When the weather turns colder there are a lot of small critters that would like to spend some time in your nice warm home. Most people however, would prefer that they remain outside in the natural environment, whether that means they will survive or not. The good news about the coming of colder weather is that some pests will actually cease to be a problem.

Insects that become problems in the home in the fall include cluster flies and house flies, box elder bugs, Asian lady beetles, spiders, leaf and stink bugs. Small animals such as mice, voles, rats, squirrels, chipmunks and snakes also look for warm homes come fall. Even the occasional larger animal such as skunks, raccoons and opossums may find their way inside attics, crawl spaces and garages.

One of the first things to do of course is to prevent small critters from ever getting into your home. That means sealing all cracks and crevices. You can use putty, expandable foam or various forms of weather stripping to plug holes. Pay special attention to cracks and holes in foundations and around doors.

To keep larger animals out make sure there are sturdy screens on any windows or vents, that there are no holes or open spots leading under crawl spaces. You should consider adding a chimney cover. Avoid storing pet food or wild bird seed where any critters can get to it. Having a food source close to the bedroom is ideal for any critter. Store such items in metal trash cans with tight fitting lids or another vermin proof container. Also store trash in containers pests can’t get into.

Insects in the home

Most insect entering the home in the fall are hard to kill with conventional insecticides and the last thing you should do is follow them around with a spray can. Insecticides sprayed inside a home closed up for winter are more harmful to you than the insects themselves. Pesticide residue gets on counters, tables, toys, windows, and other things and from there on your hands and into your body. Most of the fall insect pests don’t want to feed on you or your food; they are just looking for a warm place to sleep and pesticide use is overkill.

In the case of most insects the vacuum cleaner is your friend. Simply vacuum them up and empty the bag immediately outside (far from the house) or into a bucket of hot soapy water. You may have to do this numerous times, but its harmless to you and your family. You might want to purchase an inexpensive hand vac to make it easy to suck up the invaders.

Cluster flies, which look like large houseflies and may congregate on the sides of light colored homes or inside on a window may be hard to vacuum. You can hang sticky fly paper strips near where they congregate and dispose of the strips as they fill up. An old fashioned fly swatter also works well. These pests are usually gone in about 2 weeks after the weather turns cold enough outside to freeze the ground. They do not breed in homes.

Keep food covered and clean up spills promptly in the case of houseflies. If they keep reappearing well into cold weather they are breeding somewhere in the house, something other insect pests, even cluster flies, don’t do. Look for decaying food, (maybe in a kids room), wet areas in the crawl space or basement, in the bottom of dirty hamster cages or other pet enclosures and the bottom of trash cans for maggots, which are the larvae that turn into flies. These must be cleaned up and the areas kept clean and dry. Hang sticky fly paper and use a fly swatter to get the adult flies.

Spiders should be tolerated in out of the way places such as crawl spaces and attics as they eat other pests. They are generally harmless inside too, but most people don’t appreciate them. Remove spider webs as soon as they appear and use a fly swatter to kill spiders you see.

Mice, rats and other rodents

Unlike insects, mice, rats, voles, chipmunks and other rodents can do considerable damage to the home and can carry diseases. You must work quickly to kill them because they do multiply inside. It’s senseless to live trap these pests and release them outside. They will immediately come back inside if you release them nearby and if you release them out into a natural area they generally become fast food for the current residents, which I suppose might be just fine, but it isn’t the humane method of disposal most people assume it is.

There are numerous styles of better mousetraps (and rat traps) on the market. Many feature designs that allow you to release the dead animal without having to touch it. Place the trap near where you see damage or have seen the pest. Peanut butter is great bait for all rodents. Place the traps where pets and kids won’t be harmed. You can put a trap under a milk crate which will keep pets out and allow mice and rats in.

Mice are generally trapped pretty quickly as they are curious and explore things in their environment. Chipmunks and squirrels are a little wary and they require a rat trap to kill them quickly. In the case of larger rodents the traps should be wired or chained to something so an injured animal doesn’t drag them off.

Rats are quite wary of new things in the environment and you may need to leave the trap up for a week or so before they are caught. Once you begin trapping mice and rats keep resetting the traps until you haven’t caught anything in two weeks. Place traps in several areas of the home and remember to check them each day.

Poison is the other method of destroying mice, rats and some other rodents. It generally doesn’t work well on squirrels. Poisons must be handled with extreme caution if there are pets or children in the home but they are very effective. Consider placing them in attics and crawl spaces if pets and children don’t get into those places. There are metal bait boxes which have locks that you can purchase but some kids and pets are adept at getting things out of the holes in the boxes that allow mice and rats in.

There may be some smell if poisoned rodents die in the attic or crawl space and occasionally a dying animal may wander into view. Just keep in mind that a big infestation of mice or rats will also cause a smell and could cause thousands of dollars worth of damage to wiring or other parts of the home. Never let pets eat or play with poisoned animals because secondary poisoning can occur.

Snakes

Snakes sometimes enter basements to hibernate for the winter. They are more likely to enter through old stone foundations. Snakes are protected animals and valuable in the environment so they should not be killed, even if they are venomous. If you find the snakes early in the fall they can be taken a good distance from the home and released. After freezing temperatures have set in putting a snake outside will kill it. In many cases a nature center or zoo will take the reptiles until they can be released in the spring.

The vast majority of snakes that enter homes in the northern states for hibernation are not poisonous. You can sometimes catch snakes that are still active with glue traps that are sold for rats. Put them close to the wall and to a water source if there is one. To release the snake from the trap pour cooking oil on it. If you have snakes in the home you are afraid to deal with consider calling a professional animal control service.

Large animals

Most large animals can be live trapped. While skunks may spend some time in deep winter sleep and not be attracted to bait once they enter that state, opossums and raccoons are ready to eat all year round. Skunks will often wake and become briefly active in mid spring during warm spells. The problem with live trapping is that you have to handle the animal and either release or dispose of it. You may want to contact an animal control company if you feel you can’t do this.

Sometimes animals can be encouraged to leave on their own. Noise, lights and frequent hassling will often cause them to leave. Do not use moth balls in an effort to get rid of them. Not only is this not effective but moth balls contaminate the soil and your home and can cause human and pet health problems when the vapors are inhaled. Ultrasonic devices are also ineffective so don’t waste your money on them.

Make sure to remove any source of food that large animals can get to; this may cause them to leave. And once the animals are gone make sure any openings they entered through are sealed up.

Events, classes and other offerings

Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.

I have several free roosters, bantam and full sized if anyone is interested. Young, healthy. 3 month old muscovy mostly black ducklings for sale $5. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

The World of Cactus & Succulents Wed, October 8, 11:45 at Big Beaver United Methodist Church, 3753 John R Rd, Troy, MI

Sponsored by the Troy Garden Club and presented by Kerry Krivoshein. Cost $7. For more information contact www.TroyGardenClubMI.com. Register: infoandideas@aol.com.

Seasonal Interest in Your Garden Sat, October 11, 9am-1pm - Oakland Co. Exec. Office 2100 Pontiac Lake Rd, Waterford Township,

Presented by MSU Extension-Oakland. Explore plants that add interest throughout the year. Cost $20 Register: 248-858-08

Backyard Gardener: Tree Fruit Workshop October 13, 2014, 5-9 p.m. Fruitful Orchard & Cider Mill, 5740 W M-61, Gladwin, MI

Are you a backyard gardener? Do you need help with the fruit trees in your backyard?

Join us for a fun, hands-on workshop for any backyard gardener with fruit trees! Participants will learn about the selection, planting, care, pruning, and protection of tree fruits from insects and diseases.

This workshop will take place in two locations. Beginning at 5 p.m., Fruitful Orchard & Cider Mill on 5740 W M-61 in Gladwin, MI 48624 will host a live pruning demonstration. Then at 6 p.m., participants will travel to the Gladwin County MSU Extension office at 555 W Cedar Ave. in Gladwin, MI 48624 for classroom instruction using the new MSU Extension Master Gardener Chapter on Tree Fruits.

Workshop will be held rain or shine so dress appropriate for the weather that day!

Presenter: Steve Fouch, co-owner of L&S Tree Health Care Services, brings with him 32 years of experience and knowledge as a retired Michigan State University horticulturalist and educator.

Registration fee is $20 per person. The last day to register online is Thursday, Oct. 9, 2014. On-site registration is available at $30.00 per person.

Please visit the Backyard Gardener: Tree Fruit Workshop registration page for more information. http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=GladwinTreeFruits2014 Or contact: Marybeth Denton, 989-539-7805, Denton.Marybeth@anr.msu.edu.