Tuesday, March 30, 2021

March 30, 2021 spring is popping

Its sunny, windy and 70 degrees F here, but that’s going to change tonight, when it’s going to get colder and rain. This time of year the weather is very changeable, and the changes can bring severe weather. Everyone needs to pay attention to the weather forecasts now and have a plan for what to do if severe weather is forecast.

Flowers are really beginning to pop now. The crocus are at full bloom. Iris reticulata and winter aconite are blooming. A few Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa forbesii), corydalis and daffodils are in bloom too. I took a cat to the vet to be neutered early this morning about 10 miles south of me. The daffodils in front of the building were in full bloom, just a few miles makes a big difference.

The early tulips are budding and so far, they have escaped deer attention, (I probably shouldn’t have written that.) So far, no bloodroot is blooming although I’m keeping a lookout.  Hyacinths are budding too. There are leaves on some of my roses and on the honeysuckle and barberry.

Unfortunately, I ran into a dead possum in one of my flowerbeds yesterday. No idea what killed him. I am not going to compost him in place though- I put him out beside the road in front of the old pasture for the vultures. There’s a dead deer just down the road so they will be feasting for a while.  Hopefully they will have cleaned the plate by the next warm spell.

The grass is greening up and next week we will get the mower out and get it running.  Garden clean up and prepping the new veggie garden is ongoing. I ordered a JawSaw- have any of you used one? It’s a chain saw with a guard that’s like jaws, and they clamp around small limbs and cut them.  I’m getting a battery powered one and hopefully I’ll be able to do some pruning and sapling cutting around here.

This weekend I started several more types of flower seed, I have lots of little pots under the grow lights. Things are crowded now and for the next month or so. I saved some of each seed packet to sow directly into the ground, that way I’ll have some early bloom and then a larger, later bloom.

 Do your plants need fertilizer?

This week before it rained, I applied fertilizer to most of my flower beds. I do this every spring just as plants start coming out of the ground. It’s a boost for the spring blooming bulbs, allowing them to produce bigger flowers next year. And it also gives the perennials in the bed a good start. I do avoid fertilizing some plants, like the lavender, which like “lean” soil.

I simply apply a slow-release granular fertilizer throughout the bed, following label directions. I will also be applying compost in the beds from time to time. Compost is good for the soil, improving the texture and supplying some nutrients, but it’s not fertilizer and often does not supply all the elements soil may need. I recommend using compost generously, but also fertilizing if necessary.


For my perennial flower plants, the spring fertilizing is all they will get in the year. I do fertilize annual plants once or twice more during the summer. Container plantings will get more fertilizing than those in the ground as watering leaches out the nutrients. My vegetable garden gets fertilized as I plant, and unless there seems to be problems later, that’s all it gets. I sometimes fertilize trees or shrubs if they appear to need it.

I don’t fertilize my lawn at all. It seems silly to fertilize a lawn to make it grow so I can mow it more often. If you like a plush, perfect green lawn and don’t mind mowing you’ll want to fertilize it both in spring and fall.

Every few years I get soil tests done, but as I have gardened in this spot for many, many years I have a good idea of what it needs to grow well. Newer gardeners or gardeners who have moved to a different growing environment may not be so certain as to what their gardens need.

The best way to know what soil elements are lacking and need to be replenished is to have a soil test done. Do this in early spring, as soon as the soil is thawed and dried a bit, so you have time to get the results and correct imbalances before planting or before plants begin growing. Its especially important when you haven’t gardened in the spot before, or you had many garden problems the year before.

Contact your local county Extension agency and ask if they do soil tests. In most states they do, and it’s the best place to get one done. Garden centers may also offer soil tests. These tests will cost something, but it’s worth it for the information a good soil test provides.

Plants manufacture their own food by photosynthesis, so it is technically wrong to call fertilizer plant food. But in order to manufacture their food plants need certain elements from the soil. The type of rocks that were broken down long ago and the decayed organic matter in an area determine the type of soil that area has and the amount of essential minerals and other nutrients the soil holds.

Sandy soil loses nutrients quickly, they move down through the large pores between soil particles with water and soon are out of the reach of plant roots. Sandy soil will need more fertilization than loamy or clay soils. Clay soils hold water and nutrients very well and may need less fertilization.


The type of rocks that broke down to form soil in an area also determine soil pH or how acidic the soil is. Soil nutrients become available to plants at different levels of soil pH.  Some soil may have all of the essential elements plants need in good amounts, but the soil pH prevents them from using it. A soil pH of 6.5-7 generally allows for the best use of soil nutrients by most plants, but some plants need a higher or lower pH.  A soil test will help you determine what your soil pH is and how you should modify it if it’s needed.

Lime raises the soil pH. It’s not a fertilizer and should not be used unless the soil is too acidic for good plant growth. Using lime when it isn’t needed may cause some soil elements to be “tied up” and unavailable to plants.

By the way it’s a good place to mention that Epsom salts are not fertilizer nor are they needed in the garden. Epsom salts are composed of magnesium and a little sulfur. Most soil has plenty of both and if you add unneeded magnesium you risk it interacting with other nutrients and preventing them from being used by the plants.

Different types of plants use soil nutrients in different amounts. When the same plants grow in the same spot for a long time, the elements they need may become depleted, which leads to poor plant growth. While nitrogen may be returned to soil from the air and decomposition of organic matter, some other soil elements are not easily replenished naturally. But nitrogen is the element that most often needs replenishing, because plants use a lot of it, and it also leaches and dissipates from the soil easily.  



Nitrogen promotes leafy (vegetative) growth and if too much is applied some plants will not flower and fruit well, they are putting their energy into leaves and stems. So different types of garden plants require different levels of nitrogen for the best production. Unfortunately a soil test will not tell you how much nitrogen your soil has, because nitrogen levels change so quickly.

Chances are good that vegetable gardens and plantings of annual flowers need fertilization because they grow rapidly and use soil elements up quickly. If you have used an area for a vegetable garden for more than 2 years, it probably needs fertilization. If you don’t soil test for some reason, using a general purpose fertilizer for vegetables in the spring at planting is probably a good idea.

Roses generally need fertilization. Lawns may need some fertilization, especially in fall to promote good root growth. Fruit trees and things like strawberries and grapes generally need some fertilization to perform at their best. Some plants may have a high requirement for certain minor elements, called trace elements, for good growth.   

Reading a fertilizer bag

All fertilizer bags are required by law to have several things on the bag.  They must have three numbers on the bag or container. These numbers signify how many pounds of the major elements that plants need, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in that order, are in the bag. Nitrogen is first because it is the most important element for plant growth. Phosphorus in fertilizer is banned in some states such as Michigan because it pollutes water so that place will be represented by a 0.

Fertilizer bags must have a list of active ingredients, the weight of the bag and instructions for proper use.  If there are pesticides in the fertilizer, such as a weed killer, the pesticide name and the pesticide registration number must also be on the bag.

The three numbers on the bag are based on 100 pounds of fertilizer. A bag marked 15-20-15 would have 15 pounds of nitrogen, 20 pounds of phosphorus and 15 pounds of potassium per 100 pounds of fertilizer. If the bag was a 50-pound bag then you would have about seven and a half pounds of nitrogen, (and half the other minerals), in that bag. The rest of the weight would be made up of fillers, micronutrients, pesticides or other things.

Many fertilizers also indicate what types of plants the fertilizer would be good for. These often contain trace minerals certain plants need, like iron for citrus trees or chemicals that lower soil pH, like sulfur or aluminum in fertilizers for acid loving plants like blueberries and rhododendrons. A fertilizer high in nitrogen, the first number, is usually used for lawns. If it doesn’t contain a weed killer it could be used on corn or ornamental grasses.


But high nitrogen fertilizers are not as good for vegetables where the fruit or root is consumed, like tomatoes and carrots. In this case you’ll want a fertilizer labeled for flowers or for specific plants, like tomatoes. A general-purpose fertilizer usually has a low nitrogen content such as 5-10-5 or 5-0-5. You could use it on any plants.

Fertilizers that specialize in one species of plants, like tomatoes, often have micronutrients that the species uses more than other plants.  Tomato fertilizers often have extra calcium and magnesium, which some people think prevents blossom end rot and other problems. (It doesn’t.) But you don’t have to buy specific types of fertilizer for most plants.

Fertilizers that state they are slow release are formulated so that the little granules of fertilizer break down slowly, releasing nutrients over a long time. These are preferable in most instances, the exception is when plants are showing signs of a nutrient deficiency, such as chlorosis from low nitrogen. In that case a fertilizer that makes nitrogen immediately available would be better.

 

All plants don’t need fertilizing.

Some plants do better without extra fertilization, they are generally plants that evolved in places with poor soil and are very efficient in using what is available. Some perennials and herbs fall into this category. When given fertilizer they may grow differently than expected and are more prone to disease. Plants that are growing well, especially things like trees and shrubs, may not need fertilization every year.

Too much fertilizer is bad for the plants and bad for the environment. You can always give plants more fertilizer later if they need it, but if you over fertilize plants you may burn the roots, cause leggy, weak growth, and more pest problems. When excess fertilizer washes off the garden into the water system it can cause major problems, contaminating the water and causing the excess growth of algae.

It’s a good idea to look up the nutrient requirements for the various species of perennial plants you tend in your garden. It can help you make decisions on whether or not you should fertilize them.

Are chemical fertilizers bad?

Once a gardener determines they need to fertilize their garden they often worry about what type of fertilizer to use. The short answer is to use a balanced fertilizer, preferably one that corrects any soil nutrient imbalance you have and that is suitable for the plants you want to grow and then don’t worry about how it is made.

People who have no problems scarfing down vitamin and mineral supplements produced from chemicals rather than getting them from healthy foods are some of the worse “organic fertilizer only” proponents. The truth is that when the plants roots take up that nutrient it will be in the same form no matter what the source of it was.


The nitrogen in the blood scraped off the slaughterhouse floor and dried (organic), is the same as the nitrogen made from the air using a chemical reaction. The nitrogen in blood meal is broken down by soil organisms and water until it is a form the plant can take up. It’s the same form that is taken up from so called chemical fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers just have the ability to act faster as it’s easier for plant roots to use them.

The only thing chemical fertilizers do not do is add organic matter to the soil. Organic matter feeds soil microbes and improves soil texture and helps soil retain moisture. So, it’s a very good thing to add compost to your garden. Keep using all the compost you can make on your garden. But while compost returns some nutrients to the soil you may still need fertilizer.

Manure also adds organic matter. But both manure and compost vary tremendously as to what nutrients and how much of it are in each batch. It depends on what went into them and what happened to the material before you got it. So, using them is a crap shoot, unless you have them tested, which you could do. These products are bulky, hard to ship and store, and the longer they sit the more nutrients they lose.


Manure needs to be composted before you use it or applied in the fall. Fresh manure can burn plants. Even manure that is said to be “cold” and that doesn’t burn plants should not be used on food plants before composting. It can be the cause of food born disease like salmonella and listeria. In rare cases it could carry parasite eggs you might consume.

One more warning about manure and compost that you purchase. Both can be contaminated by the some of the very harmful chemicals you want to avoid. Some weed killers can remain in the manure of animals who were fed grass or hay treated with the weed killers or in plants used for compost and they can harm your plants.

Manure can be contaminated with chemicals used on animals to control pests or treat them for parasites. Traces of antibiotics and other medicines remain in manure. I would advise you not use purchased manure and compost on food plants. If you raise animals and know what’s in their manure, or you make your own compost then those materials are fine for the garden.

If the manure is dried and sterilized by heat, as some packages claim, it’s not very much different than chemical fertilizers, except for the higher price. It’s safe to use and probably has the nutrient levels determined.

There are now dry powdered fertilizers on the market that are said to be organic. You do know what the nutrient levels of these are as its required to be on the package. If they are the same price as the non-organic I will use them. If they are more expensive, I chose a “chemical” fertilizer. In the end the plants use these fertilizers in the exact same way.

And all those claims of added probiotics and helpful soil organisms in some organic products really haven’t been shown to offer much advantage. If you use compost and chemical fertilizers all your bases should be covered anyway.

 

Special germination needs of common garden seeds

Many gardeners are starting seeds right now for spring planting.  But did you know many seeds require special treatment if you want them to germinate? Storing seeds – or a dry, dormant period – whether in cold or room temperature surroundings, can be all that’s need for some seeds to germinate. You take them out of storage, plant them inside or outside, keep them moist and soon get new plants. But other seeds require special treatment for good germination.

Here are the plants which have seeds you can plant without worrying about special conditions. Do consult the seed package or a reference for how long before the last frost you should plant them, if you are planting them inside early. Alyssum, begonias, calendula, cleome, coleus, columbine, cornflowers, cosmos, echinacea, four o’clocks, hollyhocks, impatiens, marigolds, monarda, nasturtium, pansies, petunias, poppies, salvia, shasta daisy, snapdragons, sunflowers, tithonia, zinnias.

Basil, beans, beets, borage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, corn, cucumbers, dill, eggplant, kale, lettuce, melons, onions, peas, peppers, pumpkins, radishes, sage, spinach, squash, thyme, tomatoes.


Stratification

Some plants need stratification to properly germinate. In nature stratification occurs when seeds lay in moist soil and are subjected to freezing and thawing. Then they are ready to quickly germinate when warmer conditions occur- the amount of warmth to get them sprouting will vary by species. The period that they need to be cold also varies. In most cases cold temperatures are needed in stratification, but in a few plants the seeds must be stored in warm and moist conditions to get good germination.

Many common garden perennials need cold stratification to germinate properly. These include; Aconitum, Alchemilla, Asclepias (Milkweed), Baptisia, Bloodroot, Buddleia, Candytuft, Caryopteris, Chelone, Cimicifuga, Clematis, Chinese Lantern, Delphinium, Eremurus, Evening Primrose, Filipendula, Fuchsia, Gentians, Geranium species (Cranesbill Geranium types), Helianthemum, Helianthus, Heliopsis, Helleborus, Heuchera, Hardy Hibiscus, Hypericum, Incarvillea (Hardy Gloxinia), Knautia, Lavender, Marsh Marigold, Mazus, Nepeta (Catmint), Penstemon, Persicaria, Phlox (all types), Platycodon, Primrose, (all types), Ranunculus, Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan, most types), Saponaria (Soapwort), Saxifrage, Scabiosa, Sedums, Sempervivums (Hen-and-Chicks), Sidalcea, St. John’s-Wort, Stokesia, Thalictrum, Tiarella, Tricyrtis (Toad-lily), Veronica, Violas, Violets, Virginia Bluebells.

Many wildflowers/natives that a gardener might want to establish also require cold stratification.  Check with experienced native plant growers. It wouldn’t hurt to assume that most wildflowers that drop seed in late summer and fall would need stratification.

Gardeners can achieve stratification by simply planting the seeds of the above plants in the fall in the ground where you want them to grow and marking the spot. Or you can place the seeds in moist vermiculite in containers in the crisper of the refrigerator, which will be cold enough for most seeds.  A compromise is to plant the seeds in pots of sterile potting mix, well moistened and sink them in the ground covered with mulch.  Remove the mulch when the ground thaws.

If you want to start plants early inside, make sure that they get about 12 weeks of cold, dark treatment before moving them to a warmer, lighted place for germination.

Scarification/soaking

Some seeds require scarification (cracking) to allow seeds to germinate. This is the breaking of the seed coat to let moisture in. These plants may also require a cold period before the scarification process. In nature the breaking of hard seed coats may happen when animals eat seeds and pass them in feces, with freezing and thawing, with long periods of soaking, or other mechanical breaching or softening of the seed coat.

Some common garden plant seeds that require scarification/and or soaking include morning glories, moonflower vines, wisteria, bedding geranium-(Pelargonium), purple hyacinth beans, baptisia and canna (see below).  These may also require soaking as well as cracking the seed coat.

Assume that very hard seeds will at least need soaking before they can take up water and germinate. Soak seeds in warm water for overnight only. Too much soaking may drown the embryo inside. Then wrap the seeds in moist paper towel, slide that in a plastic bag but leave it open just a bit for air.  Place the bag in a warm, well-lit place and watch for signs of root sprouting.  As soon as you see roots the seed can be planted in the ground or pots and kept moist until the leaves are seen.

To actually break the seed coat, you can use a nail clipper to chip a tiny hole or a nail file to score one. Examine the seed before you begin. You do not want to damage the embryo inside. There will generally be a slight indentation and a tiny pore where the embryo rests against the seed wall. The spot may be a different color. Score or chip the seed on the opposite side.  Some people even resort to cracking larger hard seeds with a nutcracker, but you only want to crack, not remove the seed coat.  Then soak the seeds as above. 

Seeds that should not be stored very long

These seeds should be planted soon after you collect them or buy them. Don’t store them for next year.  If they are cold hardy you can plant them outside. Otherwise plant them in pots inside. The sooner they are planted the better germination will be. Some may need other treatments as listed above.

Anthurium, Asparagus species, Clivia, perennial Delphinium, Geranium (Pelargonium) Gerbera, Ginkgo, Impatiens, Kochia, Philodendron, Magnolia, onions, Passiflora, Potentilla, Salvia splendens, Tanecetum coccinium (or Pyrethrum).

Special needs of some common plants

Baptisia australis needs to be stored cold (dry) about 6-8 weeks (or longer is fine).  Then soak overnight in warm water, add inoculant for peas and beans and plant inside or outside after danger of frost. Or plant outside immediately after collecting the seeds using inoculant and expect sprouting in late spring.

Lilies- Asiatic and trumpets - plant outside as soon as seed is collected or save seed in cool area and plant in pots in early spring inside at 60-75 degrees. They take a long time to germinate, up to 6 weeks, and should not be left in pots very long before transplanting outside. 

Oriental lily seed should be planted in baggies or small pots of moist vermiculite and left in a warm, (65 degrees +) bright room for 3-4 months until a small bulb forms. Then they should be placed in a cooler area for 3 weeks- about 50 degrees, and then an even colder place, just above freezing for a cold dormancy of 12 weeks. Keep barely moist. After 12 weeks bring them back into a warm bright area or plant outside.  Lilies grown from seed take several years to bloom. Most gardeners buy bulbs.

Gladiolus- To possibly have flowers the first year, store glad seeds in the refrigerator crisper until January. Then pot them in a warm bright place, they can take a month to germinate- and move outside after frost is over.  Dig up corms before frost and store overwinter.  Almost all will bloom the second year outside.

Iris-  Bearded iris- you can plant them in the ground or pots sunk in the ground right after collecting.  Or rinse seeds in a mix of 10% chlorine bleach, and store seeds in a bag of moist vermiculite in the refrigerator crisper for 3 months.  Then germinate at 55 degrees in bright light.  Plant outside in spring.  It will take 2-3 years to get blooms.

Siberian and Japanese iris seed should be soaked in a bowl of water which is emptied and re-filled each day for 2 weeks. Then they are given a final rinse of 10% chlorine bleach and stored in moist vermiculite in the refrigerator crisper for 12 weeks. Any that have sprouted should then be potted and placed in a warm bright location. Un-sprouted seeds should be warmed every day for three days by placing them in water that feels barely warm to the touch for about a half hour. Then plant them in a warm bright location and plant outside as soon as possible.

Yucca- yucca has a low germination rate outside but a better one if started inside.  Keep the seeds in moist vermiculite in a warm, dark location for at least 30 days. Then pot up and keep at 65-75 degrees and in bright conditions.  The potting mix should be very well draining but kept moist.  It can take a year for germination so be patient!  They can be planted outside when they are a few inches tall at a frost-free time.

Wisteria – the seeds need to be nicked or cracked and soaked for 24 hours before planting, preferably outside in fall or they can be planted inside at normal room temperatures and bright light.  They take years to bloom from seed.

Trumpet vines- You can plant the seed outside after collecting or store it in moist vermiculite in the refrigerator crisper for 12 weeks, then plant in pots at a moderate temperature inside.  Germination may take weeks.  Plants take a few years to bloom and should be planted in the ground while still small.

Canna- Canna seeds are very hard and need to be first nicked or scratched and then they are put in a pan and boiling water is poured over them.  After you hear pops – or in a few minutes, remove the seeds. They are then soaked in cool water overnight and should have doubled their size.  Next, they are planted in pots in a warm 75 degree + room with bright light.  They should sprout within a week. The temperature can be lowered slowly to about 65 degrees.  Plant outside after the danger of frost is over and if started in February they will flower by August generally. They do not sprout well if the seed is simply planted outside in the spring.

Daylilies- daylilies can be direct seeded in the garden and will sprout in spring. However, daylily breeders believe they germinate better if started inside. The seed must be placed in moist vermiculite or in rolls of damp towels in the refrigerator for 6 weeks. They are then potted in individual small pots and kept in a warm, bright room until they are planted outside in spring.  It takes 2 or more years to get a bloom.

Hosta- hosta seed can also be planted outside in fall, but many gardeners collect the seeds and store them dry inside in the refrigerator. To germinate after at least 6 weeks of cold storage, soak the seeds for a half hour in warm water and then pot them in early spring to get a jump on the season. Grow in bright light inside in moderate temperatures. Plant outside in late spring.  Full leaf coloration may not develop until the second year.

 

Planting Sequence for the vegetable garden in spring

 Are you planting a vegetable garden this spring?  Good for you. Fresh garden produce can’t be beat for taste and nutrition.  But knowing when to plant your vegetables can be crucial.  It can mean the difference between no crop or a poor crop and abundant, delicious crops.

Vegetables fall into 3 categories for the proper planting time. The cool weather crops, mild weather crops and warm weather crops. When we plant these crops, we take into account the soil temperature, air temperature and the plants preferred growing conditions.

You can take the soil temperature by using a soil thermometer, very inexpensive in garden shops, or even with a small air thermometer you carefully push into the soil. Push the thermometer into the soil to about 8 inches deep. Sandy soils and darker colored loam soils warm up faster than heavy clay soils. Soil in raised beds also warms up faster.

The very first crops to plant are peas and leaf lettuce. These vegetables will grow in soil below 45 degrees and air temperatures just above freezing.  Frost doesn’t faze them. They can be planted as soon as your soil is dry enough to work, usually early April in zones 5-6.  Crocus, daffodils, and maples will be in bloom.

Next crops to plant are kale, chard, spinach, pac choi, radishes, onions, leeks, potatoes, and turnips. Soil temperatures of 50 degrees are high enough and daytime air temperatures in the 50’s and 60’s. Light frosts can still be expected. Depending on your location and the weather this can be late April- early May in zones 5-6. Dandelions will generally be blooming and the trees starting to leaf out. 

Next crops to plant, with soil temperatures of 55-60 degrees are carrots and beets. Air temperatures should be 60’s and low 70’s. This is usually early to mid-May in zones 5-6. You can set out cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts transplants or plant their seeds now too. Popcorn can be planted, and you can take a chance with an early planting of beans. If there are no frosts after the beans emerge, your beans will do well. Frost will mean you have to re-plant. Some people also like to gamble with a cold tolerant sweet corn around this time to attempt an early corn crop.

Once the soil temperature reaches 70 degrees it’s time to plant the rest of the garden. This includes sweet corn, the main crop of beans, cucumbers, melons, squash, okra, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers. Most tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are set out as transplants in zones 6 and lower. The other crops can be seeds or plants.

These warm weather crops are planted just as the lilacs finish blooming and oak leaves are bigger than an inch.  This is generally late May and early June.  Even then, it’s not unknown to have a surprise late frost.  Keep an eye on weather reports and be prepared to cover tender plants if frost is predicted.  Make sure to remove covers when the sun comes up.

 


This week’s garden tip

Buy cheap butterfly nets when you see them. They’ll be out in dollar stores in early spring. Remove the handles and place the net portion over young cabbage and broccoli plants. This keeps the white moths that lay eggs that turn into those nasty green worms away from them.  The nets can be re-used for several years.  You can also buy fine netting in fabric stores.  Cut squares big enough to fit loosely over cabbage plants, gather them around the cabbage stem and secure with a twist tie.

Any plant that doesn’t need insects for pollination can be covered with netting. You can make a frame from light wood, stiff wire or even plastic pipe to cover an entire row. Frames make it easy to remove the netting for weeding and harvesting.  Plants that can be covered to prevent insect attacks include beans, potatoes, lettuce, carrots, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant.

  


“Behold, my friends, the spring is come; the earth has gladly received the embraces of the sun, and we shall soon see the results of their love.”

– Sitting Bull

 

Kim Willis

All parts of this blog are copyrighted and may not be used without permission.

 

And So On….

 

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