Hello Gardeners
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| Trumpet vine flowers |
Trumpet vine is a pain in the butt. I know it’s a native and
hummingbirds like it but think very, very carefully before you get it started
in your garden. I didn’t start the trumpet vine growing here, it was here when
we moved in. Last night I was out in the far reaches of the yard trying to
untangle a big hydrangea bush from the trumpet vine bully.
It’s been too hot to do a lot of work in the sun, so I kind
of ignored that plant way out there in the yard. And then I noticed orange flowers mixed in
with the white hydrangea flowers and knew I had to act. Its pretty in a way but
I knew if I left the trumpet vine the hydrangea would suffer.
There was so much trumpet vine in that hydrangea. It had to move underground, across a mowed
space about 30 feet wide to come up in the hydrangea. I began breaking and
cutting it out – it breaks easily- and I had a huge pile of branches on the
ground. Then suddenly, as I got close to
the center of the plant I ran into a problem. Birds nest. Yep a small bird of
some type had a nest in there. (Not a
hummingbird though).
I left the nest and the remaining trumpet vine for now. The
nest looked unoccupied but in case it was soon to be a bird home I decided to
wait a bit. Goldfinches are still nesting.
I’ll check in a week or two and see if its still unoccupied.
Want to know more about trumpet vines? Check out this page.
I don’t know how many of you got rain last week. We got less
than a half inch although places around us got much more. We have entered what meteorologists call “very
dry” conditions but it sure looks like drought to me. After a few days of cooler weather, it’s hot
and humid again today and it’s supposed to stay that way for a long time.
Most of us in the US are going to sweltering until the end
of July, at least, because of this big dome of high pressure over us. It’s supposed to be a bit stormier this heat
wave than the last. The plants would handle the heat much better if we got more
rain.
Many of my hosta that are in sunnier locations are showing
leaf scorch. They are getting watered
regularly, but the heat and sun are too much. I am noticing some trees and
shrubs are starting to droop and it’s hard to get water to them.
I mowed the lawn and pasture this weekend just because
things like trumpet vine, bristly locust, black walnut, bamboo, and staghorn
sumac don’t mind sending out runners to colonize the areas around them even in
a drought.,
Even though I water, the zinnias, cosmos and other annuals I
planted from seed are very short and are starting to flower with very small
flowers. I have a mum beginning to flower- in July- it’s probably heat stress.
All the orienpet lilies are beginning bloom, the martagon lilies and Asiatic lilies
are blooming. Daylilies are blooming. My
new climbing rose hasn’t grown very much but it is flowering, quite a pretty
red and yellow flower.
The lavender likes this weather. It’s blooming like crazy.
The cannas and dahlias are finally starting to bloom. Woodland nicotiana,
cleome, Joe Pye weed, English daisies and snapdragons are in bloom.
In the vegetable garden I harvested a small cucumber and a
red pepper this week. I’ll have tomatoes
soon.
Weeds
that spread disease to your plants
When it’s hot and plants are mature enough to compete well
with weeds, gardeners sometimes give up on weeding. Besides the fact that weeds shade garden
plants and compete for water and nutrients, there is another reason to keep
weeds out of the garden. Some weeds also bring disease and harmful insects into
the garden.
Common lambsquarters, pigweed and nightshade all get some of
the fungal diseases that tomatoes and potatoes get. These are extremely common weeds in gardens. They can serve as a source of infection for
early and late blight and also septoria leaf spot. Nightshade is a perennial and some fungal
diseases may over winter in its living tissue.
Petunias, while not a weed, can also carry some tomato-potato
diseases. Don’t plant them near those
crops.
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| Lambsquarters |
Dandelions and wild carrots or Queen Anne’s Lace, growing
near garden carrots may be a source of “aster yellows” a disease that infects
garden carrots. They are spread to carrots by an insect called a leafhopper
that feeds on both types of plants.
Many viral diseases are spread by aphids, leafhoppers and
beetles feeding on infected weeds and then moving to related garden plants. Tobacco
mosaic virus of tomatoes and peppers, cucumber mosaic virus and powdery mildew
are some diseases that can be spread by insects from weeds to garden plants. Pests
like the tomato hornworm may begin feeding on nightshade and then move to
tomatoes.
Here are some other weeds that are important to remove from
your garden to help control disease and insects. Prickly lettuce, sowthistles, Canadian
goldenrod, ragweed, shepards purse, purslane, yellow rocket, dayflower,
deadnettle, teasel, heal all, chickweed and bur cucumber.
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| Prickly lettuce |
If you grow raspberries or blackberries in the garden all
wild brambles should be removed for 100 feet around your plot. They serve as a reservoir for rust and other
diseases.
Neem oil-
and how to use it in the garden
Neem oil is the newest wonder product of the plant world,
although it’s been around gardens a long time. While Neem is a chemical product
derived from a plant, it is a registered pesticide and should always be treated
as such. While it is considered organic
and is less harmful than some other chemicals, there are still risks associated
with the use of Neem, and it can have toxic effects, including death, to humans
and animals if not handled in the right manner. Neem can also kill or damage
plants if not applied properly.
Neem oil is derived primarily from the seeds of a tree
native to India and Burma, (Azadirachta indica). Other parts of the plant
are also used for various commercial uses. There are a number of different
formulations and strengths of neem oil. Azadirachtin
is the chemical in neem oil responsible for its pesticidal effects. However even neem oil purified to have little
of that chemical retains some pesticidal advantage.
Neem oil works in two ways to kill insects, by smothering
those it directly contacts and by altering hormonal activity in those that
ingest it. When the oil gets on an insect it is non- selective- that is it
kills both good and harmful insects. However, when the spray has dried on plant
leaves only insects that eat the plant will be affected. It can take some time
for insects ingesting neem to die.
Not all insects are equally affected by neem oil. It doesn’t
seem to do much to Japanese beetles for example. Soft bodied insects like
aphids are more easily killed by neem oil.
Neem is also used for some fungal diseases of plants. It
does not cure plants of fungal disease, rather it limits the ability of the
fungus to reproduce and spread. It can be used as a preventative for fungal
disease because fungal spores landing on treated foliage do not reproduce well.
Neem oil won’t help plant problems caused by environmental factors,
such as blossom end rot in tomatoes. It
is not a fertilizer and won’t correct nutritional deficiencies. Neem oil won’t
kill mosquitoes, ticks or fleas unless it gets directly on them and it should
never be applied to humans or pets to control these pests. Neem oil is moderately
toxic to fish and other aquatic life and should never be put in natural water
or ornamental ponds.
No pesticide, including neem oil should be used unless
necessary. Try other non-chemical means of controlling pests first, such as
hand picking or trapping insects. Neem
oil is not harmless, as many gardeners seem to think, and should be used
carefully. Plants often experience
problems from the application of neem oil, especially if it is done more often
or in stronger concentrations than recommended on the label.
Damage to plants from neem oil includes yellowed, dying
foliage, areas that look scorched or bleached, death of new growth, wilting and
distorted foliage and flowers. Poor growth
and stunting may occur with frequent use.
If you want to try neem oil in your garden always buy a
product intended for garden use. (There are neem oil products for human
cosmetic and medicinal uses.) Then read
and follow the label directions carefully. Usually if mixing is required only
water is used. DO NOT MIX NEEM OIL
WITH OTHER PRODUCTS. Do not add
soap, vinegar, baking soda, or other things.
These things can interact with neem oil and make it more harmful to both
you and your plants. There are many “homemade recipes” out there that raise the
harmful effects of neem oil considerably.
Neem oil should be applied to plants in the early morning or
evening when pollinators are not active.
It will kill pollinators and other beneficial insects if it contacts
them. Don’t apply neem oil to flowers pollinated by insects. It should not be
applied when the sun is high as neem oil often causes a photoreaction “burn” if
applied in the sun. Don’t apply it when temperatures are above 95 degrees F or
below freezing.
Do not apply neem to newly transplanted plants, or wilted
plants. Doing so may kill or damage them. Some species of plants do not
tolerate neem oil well and it shouldn’t be used on them. Those plants include impatiens, carnations,
hibiscus, and fuchsia as well as some other less common plants.
Always try a little neem oil pesticide on a small part of a new
plant first, especially if it is a valuable one, and observe for 24 hours. Even if you have used neem oil on a plant
before different environmental conditions or different neem products can cause
plant damage. Tender new growth on any plant is more likely to be burnt by neem
oil.
Human and animal problems
When used as directed on the label neem oil has a low
toxicity to humans, wildlife and pets. It can be used on food crops safely, but
produce must be washed before it’s eaten. However, if it is mixed with other
products the mixtures can be harmful. Birds and animals do not seem to have
problems eating plant parts treated with neem. Fish are harmed by neem and it
should be kept out of natural water bodies.
Some people have reported that cats are more sensitive to
neem oil toxicity than other pets. They should not be sprayed with neem and probably
shouldn’t ingest plants sprayed with it. However not much has been reported in science
based articles on the subject.
Neem oil pesticide products must never be directly consumed
by pets or children. Keep products out of their reach. Death can result from
this and poison control should be called immediately. It can cause severe
vomiting, convulsions, metabolic acidosis, kidney failure, encephalopathy and
severe brain ischemia. Yes, there are
neem products like toothpaste and herbal preparations that people use in
moderation, but neem pesticides are not safe to consume.
Avoid getting the neem products on your skin-the pesticide
can be absorbed through the skin. Many people have allergic reactions like
rashes when neem oil gets on skin. Do not use neem oil for gardens on people or
pets to control things like lice or fleas. There is a neem preparation for lice
sold, but it can be a harsh treatment.
Neem oil is very irritating to the eyes. It can cause problems if spray is inhaled
also. In herbal medicine neem is used as
a contraceptive and to cause abortions (among many other things). It is known
to cause reproductive problems in animals exposed to it. If you are pregnant or
trying to become pregnant, I would be very careful using neem products.
Neem oil can be helpful in the garden with low
toxicity. However, it is still a pesticide
and should be used exactly as directed on the product label. While it works well to control some insects and
aids in controlling some plant diseases it does not solve every garden pest
problem.
More reading
New
Garden? How to decide what to plant
Do you have a new garden spot you want to develop or a
garden area you want to renew? Many
people are hesitant to trust their own judgement when choosing what to plant or
they don’t have any idea of what species of plants they can choose from.
Here’s how many new gardeners plan a garden. They show a
picture to social media and ask what to put there. They are bombarded with
suggestions reflecting with what each person likes and dislikes, often without
regard to conditions at your garden or size of the plants you need. And it’s
often apparent the people offering the suggestions really don’t know much about
the plants they are suggesting.
Or the new gardener asks for plant donations and accepts
everything anyone offers. They cruise stores for deals and marked down
plants. Free plants and deals are fine-
if they are plants that will suit your growing conditions and stay within your
garden boundaries. New gardeners should be very careful adding marked down,
half dead plants to their new garden.
It’s a good way to get some insect pest or disease started.
The right way to plan your garden
Do your research first. Know what plants will grow in your
planting zone and growing conditions. People always want to skip any research
and just ask someone for help. But there is so much to learn that conversations
with friends and people online just can’t substitute for a little research. I
am going to give some tips here, but you still need to do some research and
make some decisions.
It helps to decide on a look or theme you want for your
garden, formal, low maintenance, cottage garden, all native, wetland, and so
on. Look at other people’s gardens, public gardens, gardens in books and
online. Be aware that formal gardens,
those with sheared hedges and topiary plants, generally need a lot more labor
than less formal gardens.
Decide what you like. Don’t let people intimidate you
into only native plants or a formal garden if that’s not your idea of a garden.
Your garden should be what you like, not what others want.
To plan properly you must know your garden zone. This is very important as you select
perennial plants. It determines what
plants are likely to survive winter in your zone and thrive there. You can
choose plants with a zone rating lower than yours or the same as yours but
choosing plants with a higher zone rating will probably be a waste of time and
money because they won’t survive in your area.
You can find that information here.
What kind of light conditions does your garden spot get?
Remember that light conditions will change somewhat during the year as the suns
position changes. Determine your average light conditions by observing the spot
about this time of the year- late June-early July. Full sun is considered to be about 8 hours of
sun a day. Partial shade is 4-5 hours of sun a day. Light shade is filtered
light through a small tree, or lattice. If the north side of a house doesn’t
get any additional shade from trees or other buildings, it’s probably light
shade. Full shade is no direct sun.
Check your soil type. Is it sandy, nice loam, or clay? All kinds of soil can support a nice garden
and there are plants that will grow in just about any soil type. What is the
drainage in the spot? If water puddles there after a good rain and stays for
more than an hour you probably have poor drainage or a wet spot. You’ll have to
fix the problem or choose plants that tolerate wet roots.
For new gardeners it’s always a good idea to get a soil test
done. That will tell you the soil pH, (whether
your soil is acidic or alkaline), and some basic information about soil
fertility. Call your local county Extension office to find out how to submit a
soil sample.
Next consider the time you have for gardening. Do you need
low maintenance plants? Then check to
see if there are any laws or ordinances for your site that might affect what
plants you can have. In most places
there won’t be, but some neighborhood associations and cities or villages do
restrict what you can grow. They may require vegetable gardens be located in
the rear of the house for example.
After you have done all this research, make a list of the
plants you like that are suitable for your garden conditions and keep it handy.
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| First year |
How a professional garden designer would work
A professional garden designer, or garden architect, would
go about the project this way. They would come and thoroughly measure every
aspect of the new garden site, including the length, depth, width, distance to
trees, tree canopy space, location of buildings, decks, patios, drives and
walks, location of wells, air conditioning units, meters, underground utilities
and other obstacles. They would measure the distance from the ground to the
bottom of windows that might be in the proposed garden space, and the distance
between windows and doors in the space.
A detailed, to scale drawing would then be made on graph
paper showing all of these things. After a design is created using simple forms
like circles, tall ovals, boxes and so on to indicate plant shapes, the
designer would develop a list of plants that fit the site conditions and then would
indicate the plant species on the design. The mature sizes of the plants would
be used to decide what would fit where and their natural forms would be used to
complete the design- a rounded form for a circle on the graph for example
People planning a new garden can do this themselves and it
can be invaluable in planning. Bring out that list of plants you like that fit
your conditions. Make sure the mature
height and width of those plants is included. Now get some graph paper. Graph paper
has little squares evenly covering it and its available in most places paper is
sold.
Assign a measurement such as 1 foot, to each square on the
graph paper. Put in all the measurements you have taken- where the trees,
windows, paths and other things are located on your “plan”. Make sure you draw them in scale, if a path is
six feet wide and each graph square equals 1 foot in the real garden, then you
would block out 6 squares on your plan for the width of the path and as many
squares long as the actual path runs.
You can then decide how many plants you can put in the
space, allowing for paths and other things.
Use your prepared list of plants. Some people like to color in the
square to coordinate with what the actual bloom color or foliage color of the
plants might be.
You may want a separate drawing for every area you intend to
plant in. Make a master copy with the
measurements and then you can make copies that you can mark up and move things
around on. Even a basic rudimentary
drawing is better than no plan.
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| Bed after 3 years |
Quick general suggestions
Before you start any digging, you need to know if there are
any underground pipes or wires you might damage. You also need to see where
overhead wires are and to know where your property lines are located.
Put taller species in back or the center of a bed that can
be seen from all sides. A variation in plant height is more natural looking, with
the shorter plants in front.
Don’t just choose plants for their flowers, how they will
look when not flowering should be considered. Some things will die back after
flowering and disappear. You’ll want something present in the garden all season
and you may want winter interest too.
If you like flowers- some people prefer mainly foliage- try
to choose plants that bloom at various times, spring, summer, and fall. Most
perennials have one bloom period, they don’t bloom all season. You may want
some of the few that do bloom for long periods like the landscape roses, to
keep color in the garden all season. It’s also good to add some annual flowers
each year to fill in when the perennials aren’t in bloom. Annuals tend to bloom all season.
One big hint. Don’t choose plants at a nursery because the
flower colors look good together unless you carefully look up the normal bloom
time for the plants and the growing conditions they require. Plants in nurseries often don’t bloom at the
same time they would in your garden. Those plants may never bloom again at the
same time and worse they may require different growing conditions, so they can’t
be grown together.
Color schemes should suit you. Formal gardens tend to have
one or two main colors with an accent color here and there. Informal gardens
tend to blend many complementary colors.
Some people find a simple color scheme soothing and pleasing. While other
people are more attracted to the riot of “anything goes” color schemes. Do what
you like.
Foliage color should also be considered. Various shades of
green and perhaps some variegated foliage are more pleasing to the eye than one
shade of green. Don’t overdo “accent” colors
like golden or purple foliage plants. One or two is nice, a whole garden of
golden or purple foliaged plants is generally not very appealing.
Choose a variety of shapes and textures of plants. Formal
gardens will have less variety and informal gardens more. That does not mean that
every plant should be different. Generally, plants look better in clusters of 3
or more but that’s not a hard and fast rule. Sometimes one larger plant can be
a focal point, a weeping tree or Japanese Maple for instance. And small areas may only be suitable for one
plant of each kind instead of clusters.
If you are offered plants or see bargains refer to your
plant list. Don’t take just anything
because it’s free or cheap.
You may have to plan your garden in stages, in fact that’s an
excellent way to start. You learn over time to save up for a large, quality
plant instead of settling for a cheap seedling from a little known company that
you are going to have to replace 3 times or that will take 10 years to grow to
blooming size. Buy a few good plants
instead of a lot of bargain bin half dead plants. Next year add a few more quality plants.
When you do have a budget to consider, buy the plants that
will be focal points or the largest plants first. They can be growing in your
garden, getting large and beautiful as you fill in around them.
New gardeners tend to jam too many plants of too many
species into a garden. You probably cannot have every plant you’ve ever admired
in the same garden bed, unless it’s very large.
And it’s tempting to plant too closely when plants are small. Plan for
the mature size of the plants. The old saying first year they sleep, second
they creep, third they leap is pretty accurate. Until they “leap” you can fill
in with annual plants.
Gardening is a learning experience and you need to take the
time to learn a little about it. Planning a garden is a lot of fun, or it
should be. You won’t get your garden perfect the first time. It will need to be
tinkered with and improved. Every gardener I know is planning changes for the
next year. But starting with a plan and some knowledge will get you better
results than just jamming a bunch of plants you know little about into an empty
space.
"Summer afternoon—summer afternoon; to me those have
always been the two most beautiful words in the English language."
—Henry James
Kim Willis
All parts of this blog are copyrighted and may not be used without
permission.
And So On….
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Michigan garden events/classes here:
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