Hi Gardeners
 |
| Dahlias |
It’s raining as I write today, a beautiful soaking rain. All the plants are perky looking. I’ve got a jam-packed blog here for you
today, courtesy of the rain.
The end of the garden bloom cycle is nearing. The hardy hibiscus is in bloom and the toad
lilies and anemones are about to bloom.
Goldenrod and heath asters are blooming.
My annuals are for the most part, still putting on a good show. Zinnias,
cosmos, marigolds, tithonia, garden phlox, dahlias, 4 o clocks, morning
glories, salvia and nicotiana are just some of the things blooming away.
The crocosemia, tuberose, and peacock orchids still haven’t
bloomed, but I’m excited because my Hawaiian hibiscus now has buds. I got it as a tiny twig and now it’s 6 feet
tall. It will have white dangling flowers. However, another “hibiscus” I got this spring, Abelmoschus moschatus, also called musk mallow, has not
bloomed nor can I see buds yet and it’s nearly as tall. It’s supposed to have seeds that were once
used in perfume making, with a flowery musk scent. It’s an annual plant so it better hurry up.
We got a few small ears of sweet corn from the garden this week,
but that harvest is essentially over. I
am going to cut down the whole patch because smut is developing, and the
remaining ears are underdeveloped from poor pollination. Some people actually eat corn smut like they
do mushrooms, but I am not one of them.
I have been sorting through catalogs looking at fall planted bulbs
and trying to make a decision. I made an earlier order for lily bulbs and a new
peony but now it’s time to decide on bulbs for my enlarged front garden. I love tulips but so do deer and the last 2
years they ate more of them than I expected them to. They don’t eat daffodils and narcissus and I
really should concentrate on those for spring color. Plus, daffodils are more
likely to return and multiply each year. But my eyes keep going back to those
lovely tulips.
I like Colorblends- a large quantity bulb catalog that caters to
professional gardeners. They have so
many lovely pre-blended mixes of tulips and other bulbs. Their bulbs are huge and healthy and the
quantity prices very reasonable. I
always say I’ll just make the minimum purchase but always go over that. (catalog links page below.) http://gardeninggrannysgardenpages.blogspot.com/p/have-youreceived-any-garden-catalogs-in.html
There’s an advantage of sampling small amounts of various bulb
cultivars from regular catalogs, you get to see a wide selection of blooms, but
they cost more per bulb this way. Bulbs
do look better planted in drifts or clusters and 100 daffodils is much more spectacular
than 10. But then when you buy
quantities of 100 you have to plant 100, and I always buy more than one type so
that’s a lot of planting. Decisions,
decisions.
Did you try to ID the plant I posted in
the plant ID article last week?
The answer was its Allegany vine, Adlumia
fungosa. Here’s
a link to more information on the plant; https://gardeninggrannysgardenpages.blogspot.com/p/alleganyvine-climbing-bleeding-hearts.html
Helping Tired annuals
Annuals in containers and baskets may not be looking their best at
this time of the year. Depending on
where you live they may have 4-8 weeks or more of bloom time before a hard
frost kills them. Annuals may need some
trimming and deadheading (removing dead flowers), to keep them looking nice,
especially those in containers. If they are looking really straggly shear them
back a bit – 1/3 to 2/3 of the stem length depending on what the plant looks
like. Give them some liquid fertilizer,
keep them watered and hope for a quick reboot.
Don’t forget to keep containers and baskets watered as we get into
cooler weather- unless we have a lot of fall rain. Sometimes plants in poorly draining
containers can get waterlogged and the roots will rot as the weather gets
cooler. Water doesn’t evaporate moisture
out of the pots as quickly as before. But
sometimes when it seems rainy and cool, pots and containers may actually be dry. There may not have been enough rain to
penetrate the foliage or it was shed over the side of the pot by mature leaves.
Feel the soil in containers and baskets before watering.
Annuals in the ground should be at their best right about now, if
you have been faithful watering them, and are probably carrying the color in
the late summer garden. It’s fine to
give them a fertilizer boost now. You can also fertilize tropical blooming
container plants like hibiscus or mandevilla that you plan on bringing inside
for the winter or leaving to die with frost.
However, don’t fertilize perennials in the garden, even late
blooming ones, as this often causes new growth which won’t harden off properly
for winter. Don’t fertilize foliage
houseplants summering outside now either.
If things are looking really bad because of drought, neglect or
disease it may be time to simply rip them out and take them to the compost
pile. If you still want color you can
pop in some potted mums. Some garden
stores may have other things in bloom, like pansies or calendula that like
cooler weather that you can plant.
If you plant those potted mums in the ground early, and keep them
watered if it’s dry, you have a decent chance of them returning next year. Do not cut back any dead foliage in late
fall, wait until spring. If you see new growth in the spring you can carefully
trim off the old foliage then.
Should you use landscape fabric?
When commercial landscapers install a landscape they often use
landscape fabric under mulch. Home
gardeners are also using it- but is it a good idea in either case? There are uses for landscape fabric in the
home landscape but in many places it’s not a good idea to use this fabric.
Landscape fabric is usually some form of perforated plastic or
woven fabric that is sold in rolls. The theory is that the perforations or gaps
in the weave will allow water and air to pass through but prevent weeds from
growing. The fabric keeps various
mulches from settling into the soil and disappearing. (In this article we are not talking about the
rolls of plastic mulch used for vegetable and fruit production.)
While it sounds like it would be very helpful, landscape fabric is
often neither helpful or appropriate.
Anyone who has ever tried to garden in an area where old landscape fabric
exists will tell you about the cursing that ensues when trying to move plants,
plant things or even weed. After a few
years the plants have grown and the tiny holes in the fabric where they were
once planted no longer allow the plants removal without cutting, digging and
cursing. Weeds have grown on top of the
fabric- easy to pull- and into the fabric- terrible to pull. The soil is
impossible to amend, and time has clogged those little holes in the fabric that
once allowed water and air exchange.
If you go through the intensive effort to remove old landscape
fabric to make changes to the landscape, you’ll find that the soil under the
fabric is compacted. Air, water and nutrients have been excluded or limited for
a while and the soil is not very healthy.
And if you look on top of the bed you’ll see that weeds are still able
to grow.
Landscape fabric is appropriate under a path or drive that is
intended to be long term. It can be put
under stone mulches or patio stones to keep them from working down into the
soil, if nothing is being planted there. It can be put under porches or low decks to help suppress weeds. While some weeds will still grow they will be
easy to pull if they are promptly removed.
Landscape fabric is not a good idea under patio stones if you want moss
or other tiny plants to grow between them.
Landscape fabric does not work well under organic mulches such as
wood chips. These will break down and
form a layer of compost on top of the fabric in which weeds will grow quite
well. Some of weeds will put roots into
the fabric and will be difficult to pull.
Landscape fabric is never appropriate in beds where plants will be
installed. Your weeding will not be
substantially decreased, and the fabric doesn’t allow the soil surface to
“breathe” well. The soil microbiota
needed for healthy soil will decline under the fabric. After a time, water doesn’t flow well through
the fabric, which deprives plants of moisture.
Mulch is generally used to cover the fabric because it’s not very
appealing looking on its own. Mulch
generally breaks down and the organic matter enriches the soil, if there is no
fabric beneath it. As more mulch is added
year after year a layer of compost develops on top that supports weed growth
quite well. The soil compacts beneath
the fabric, which makes it harder for the roots of the plants planted through
it to survive.
Placing stone mulch over landscape fabric and then planting
through it is not recommended either.
You’ll have the same problems, if not more, with soil health being
affected, the soil being compacted, and even weeds growing into it.
Most gardeners like to move plants around and plant more things
into the garden. Dead and diseased plants need to be taken out. This is
difficult when there’s a layer of landscape fabric under everything.
Then there’s the critter problem.
Landscape fabric makes a nice place for mice, voles and other things to
create homes beneath. They have no
problem chewing access holes. Snakes go
under the fabric looking for the mice and voles, or to make their own
home. Insects and slugs also appreciate
landscape fabric homes.
A good gardener should not place landscape fabric under planting
areas. It has its place under areas that you don’t intend to plant in for a
long time but other uses cause soil problems and make gardening harder, not
easier.
Growing
cucumbers
Cucumbers are a great crop for a small garden because one
plant yields a lot and because they can be trained to grow up a trellis so they
take up vertical, not horizontal space.
You can use them fresh or turn them into pickles for storage. There are some bush type cucumbers that can
also be grown in a pot.
Common, (monoecious), cucumbers have both male and female
flowers on the same plant. They are the most productive types for growing
outside in the home garden where you want a long season of harvest. There are
two main types of these cucumbers. One
has white spines and is the variety best for fresh use. They are usually long
and narrow. The other type has black
spines and is usually shorter and fatter.
This is the best type for pickles.
But either type can be used either way.
Catalogs will often label them as slicers or pickling cukes.
There are some odd cucumber varieties such as brown,
white or reddish ones and some that form a round fruit. Gherkins are not really a cucumber but a
related species. Baby cukes are just cucumbers harvested when small.
 |
| Parthenocarpic type cucumber |
There are special varieties of cukes that are better for
greenhouse production. Many of these are
parthenocarpic, that is they produce fruit without being pollinated. They are
seedless or nearly seedless but must be isolated from other types of cukes.
They generally have long narrow fruits with thin skin and are used as slicing
or fresh cukes. The seed or the plants
are more expensive than other cucumbers.
Gynoecious cucumbers are varieties that have been
developed that have all or mostly female flowers. They usually produce most of
their fruit at one time, which may be good if you want to make pickles. But
they need to have a regular cucumber or two which have male flowers planted
among them to get fruit.
Cucumbers are a vine crop. Vines can get 10 feet long in
some cases and have white bumps along the stems. The leaves are triangular. The whole plant has a prickly, sticky feel. The flowers are yellow and are either male or
female in the normal monoecious garden cucumber. Male flowers don’t produce fruit. Female flowers have a small cuke attached at
the back. Male flowers without the baby
attached usually begin to bloom first, but in suitable weather female flowers
will shortly follow. Cucumbers are
insect pollinated but you only need one plant to get cucumbers.
Cucumber fruits can be bumpy or smooth on the outside
depending on variety. They are usually
dark green, with paler striping on some when immature. They turn yellow, white or brown when ripe.
Cucumbers are a warm weather crop and should be planted
after all danger of frost has passed in your area. They grow quickly from seed and can be
planted directly in the ground where they are to grow. Some gardeners will start seeds inside earlier
or buy transplants to set out. Small
transplants are better than larger ones at quickly establishing themselves.
Plant cucumbers in full sun. For best fruit production they require even,
consistent amounts of water, as a cucumber fruit is primarily water. You can
fertilize with a garden fertilizer at planting, but it may not be necessary in good
soil. Many people plant cucumbers in a mound of soil with 3-4 plants in a 2
feet diameter mound but planting them in rows is fine too. Space plants about 12 inches apart.
If you are going to use some kind of trellis for the
cucumbers to climb put that in place when you plant them. A piece of wire fence between two poles is a
good trellis. The trellis can be at an angle or straight up and down. You may have to help the young plants vining
stems find a trellis in the beginning but after that they should not need to be
tied up.
Cucumbers can also be allowed to sprawl on the
ground. This works best with mulch
underneath the plants to keep the fruit clean.
Each plant will take up a good bit of room this way, at least 6 feet.
Harvest cucumbers when they are young and small for the
best fresh, slicing cucumbers. Pickling
cucumbers can be allowed to get a little bigger. A little yellow on the bottom
is ok. Most cucumber fruits turn yellow
when they are ripe, a few turn white.
You don’t want them to get to this stage. They will have large seeds and the flavor is
poor. But do pick any yellow cucumbers
you see and feed them to the chickens or put them in the compost pile. If you leave them to finish ripening, it’s a
signal to the plant to stop producing fruits.
The most common problem of cucumbers is powdery
mildew. In this fungal disease the
leaves get grayish, fuzzy spots that turn into a coating. Leaves then dry up and fall off. It’s most
prevalent in warm, humid weather but can pop up at other times. Plants stressed by lack of water but in humid
conditions are often affected. Shaded leaves and older leaves show symptoms
first. The plants may put out new leaves at the end of the vine and continue to
set a few fruits, but they won’t produce well.
Downy mildew is a worse problem because vines will
rapidly die. It is more of a problem when the weather turns cool, wet and
cloudy and later in the season. The leaves will get yellow angular spots on the
top between leaf veins and fuzzy grayish brown to black spots on the underside,
then the whole plant quickly dies. This
fungal disease will also spread to squash, melons and pumpkins.
Fungal diseases can’t be cured, only prevented. They are
often blown in on the wind. To prevent powdery and downy mildew plant resistant
varieties and use a garden fungicide through the season as the label directs. Don’t
water in the evening and don’t crowd plants. Home remedies of baking soda and milk are not
effective at prevention and certainly not as a cure. Epsom salt does absolutely
nothing and may harm plants further.
Cucumber beetles are a pest of cucumbers. There are striped and spotted varieties. They
are long beetles, usually yellow with black spots or stripes. The spotted
cucumber beetle will feed on all kinds of plants, but the striped cucumber
beetle usually sticks to cucumbers, melons and squash.
Spotted cucumber beetles lay their eggs on the roots of
grasses and corn and the larvae feed there. Only the adults eat the cucumber
plant. Striped cucumber beetles lay eggs
at the base of cucumber plants and both adults and larvae feed on them. Feeding by beetles stunts growth, they may
eat flowers and reduce yield and the beetles can carry bacterial diseases.
Cucumber beetle control can be helped by mulching plants
with straw, which encourages predator insects, or using reflective plastic
mulch which repels them. Using a hand vac to suck up beetles can help. Don’t
plant cucumbers in the same spot each year because the beetles can overwinter.
Gardeners can also use garden insecticides according to label directions.
Cucumbers are rarely bothered by animal pests, unless you
count chickens left to roam the garden.
I
remember this lovely plant from my grandmother’s garden and I remember she was
proud of it for some reason, maybe because it wasn’t common or hardy in her
growing zone. It turns out it used to be
grown more frequently in gardens until about the 1960’s and it’s a shame
gardeners aren’t growing it more often now. It has been grown in American gardens since at least 1830. I was able
to get a small plant from Select Seed this spring and I am very happy with the
plant, which now, after a couple months, is large and producing lots of flowers.
 |
| Chinese foxglove |
There
are two scientific names floating around for the plant, Rehmannia elata is probably the most common. It’s called Chinese
Foxglove (common name) because its native to China and the flowers somewhat
resemble the common foxglove. It’s
related to Rehmanniae radix, an
important herb in Chinese medicine.
Chinese
foxglove is not related to the common garden foxglove many gardeners are
familiar with. It has larger flowers and blooms much longer than regular
foxglove. The foliage stays green
through summer and turns red in the fall in colder areas. In zones 8 and above it’s evergreen and may
bloom through the winter season.
This
pretty plant has a basal rosette of foliage at first, then sends up blooming
stalks with alternate leaves. The leaves
are rough textured with fine hairs and prominent veins. They have an irregularly scalloped edge and grow
up to 10 inches long. Plants average 2-3
feet high with bloom stalks but can get to 5 feet high in perfect conditions. Plants have rhizomes as roots and spread
quickly in good conditions. My small
plant has numerous daughter plants in it’s first year of growth.
The
flowers of Chinese foxglove are tubular, with a flared lip of 3 fused petals
and dangle downward. They are about 3
inches long. Most are a rosy, peachy
pink with a yellow throat dotted with carmine.
Some nurseries have developed strains with deeper pink flowers and there
is a rare white variety that’s hard to find.
It must be started by cuttings. The plants are free blooming, with
stalks of flowers from spring to frost.
Bees and hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers.
Chinese
foxglove likes rich, moist, well-drained soil but is tolerant of most soil
types. In the north it will grow in full
sun if kept well-watered. My plants
receive nearly full sun. Above zone 7 it
should in partial or dappled shade. It’s biggest drawback, that I can see, is
that it’s not hardy in zone 6 and lower and in zone 7 must be heavily
mulched. I intend to save seed and also to
try and overwinter a young plant on the unheated porch.
Rehmania
elata is fairly easy to start from seed and will bloom the first year. It should be started inside 8-10
weeks before your last frost. The seeds
need warm soil to germinate and should be lightly pressed into the soil because
light is also needed for germination.
It’s important to keep the seeds evenly moist until germination. Gardeners can find small plants from
specialty nurseries on line but it’s uncommon to see them in many retail
greenhouses in the northern states.
In
zones 7 and higher where the plant is hardy it can spread quickly and make
large clumps and some southern gardeners consider it invasive. The plants can be divided and started from
cuttings also.
 |
| Look at all the small plants coming up at the base |
In the
US this plant has few insect or disease problems. Slugs are said to eat it, although they don’t
normally prefer plants with rough leaves like it has so I am skeptical. I have seen Japanese beetles on the plants
but have noticed little damage.
While
Chinese foxglove is related to a commercially important herbal plant, little is
known about this species herbal value.
It has toxic properties though and should not be experimented with. I would consider it poisonous.
Downy Mildew in
Impatiens Update
Almost every gardener has grown impatiens ( Impatiens
walleriana) in a shady or semi-shady spot in the garden. Impatiens is known for long lasting color in
the garden or in containers and until recently had few insect and disease
problems. A few years ago however, a new
disease for impatiens, downy mildew, was causing great concern for growers and
gardeners alike. For a while it was
thought that gardeners would no longer to able to grow impatiens successfully
in the garden and they nearly disappeared from retail stores. But things have changed, and impatiens are
back in garden stores.
But just because impatiens are for sale again doesn’t mean
the problem has totally went away. The
key to success is having growers treat impatiens in the greenhouse with certain
fungicides. If done correctly they will
protect the plants after they leave the greenhouse until the growing season
nears its end. Plants that are resistant
to downy mildew have also been developed.
But gardeners who start their own seeds and small greenhouses
which want to remain organic or who don’t treat plants because of other reasons
may still produce plants susceptible to the disease. The disease can pop up at any time of the season in plants that haven’t
been protected by fungicide treatments in the greenhouse. So, gardeners should be aware of the disease
and what to look for.
Impatiens downy mildew, Plasmopara obducens, is a
fungal disease that prefers cool, moist conditions. Heavy dews and high humidity favor its
spread. It can spread by windborne
fungal spores or by contact. Gardeners
can carry the fungal spores on their hands, clothes and tools. You can bring it home from the nursery or it
can turn up in your garden later, blown in on the wind. Once it starts downy mildew kills your
impatiens plants in a few weeks. Once a
plant gets downy mildew it can’t be cured.
Many other garden plants have problems with downy mildew,
but each species of plant has their own forms of downy mildew and usually the
downy mildew on one type of plant will not infect other types of plants. Impatiens downy mildew will infect garden
balsam, a close relative, and some wild impatiens species, but not cucumbers or
roses for example. New Guinea impatiens and some new hybrid species of
impatiens are very resistant to impatiens downy mildew.
Symptoms of downy mildew in impatiens
Gardeners should examine their impatiens plantings every few
days, especially when the weather is cool and damp. It often occurs late in the
growing season and even treated plants may succumb to the disease if the season
is long. Here are the symptoms of impatiens downy mildew.
Stippled (little spots) upper surfaces of leaves
Yellowing leaves
Curling leaf edges
Wilted look
Dropping leaves and flowers,
Bare stems
Stunted look
White, fuzzy coating on the underside of leaves
The white fuzzy coating is fungal spores and they are not
always present, especially if the weather has turned warm and dry. But when the plants do have spores it is a
good diagnostic sign. You can rub off
this coating with your fingers.
What to do when you find impatiens downy mildew
When the symptoms of downy mildew show up the plants
infected, and those on either side, even if they look fine, should be pulled
up. Plants cannot be successfully treated once the disease starts. Try to get all roots and don’t leave any
leaves or stems behind that break off. Put
the plants in plastic bags and tie them for safe disposal. Do not put them in the compost pile or leave
them lying on the ground. Keep a close
watch on the rest of the plants. You can
plant an alternative species such as coleus in the spot where you pulled out
the impatiens but don’t re-plant impatiens plants.
One unfortunate thing about downy mildew is that it also
produces a special type of spore that over winters in plant stems and roots and
then it will re-infect new plants planted in the spring. Once it settles in the soil and garden debris
it can be in the garden for a long time.
At the close of the season gardeners should remove all impatiens plants,
including the roots, even if they did not seem infected. Put these plants and parts in plastic bags to
dispose of them and do not compost them.
Other things to help prevent impatiens downy mildew are
listed below.
Inspect plants carefully before buying them. Don’t buy plants that have any of the
symptoms above.
Wait until the weather is warm and settled before planting
impatiens.
Don’t water or irrigate in the evening, make sure plants dry
off before nightfall.
Try to avoid overhead watering if you can, use trickle
irrigation at the roots or water containers so that you don’t wet the foliage.
You may want to avoid mulch around impatiens as it can keep
the soil surface moist and favorable for fungal spore survival.
Make sure to remove all impatiens plant parts, including
roots, when frost has killed the plants, or you are ready to clean up the
garden for winter.
If you had downy mildew this year you will want to avoid
planting impatiens in that spot next year.
Chose other plants such as coleus, begonias, or vinca for planting in
the spot. If the infected plants were in
a container remove all the soil and dispose of it. Then wash the container
inside and out with hot soapy water and re-fill it with clean potting mix.
Home gardeners who think their plants aren’t treated or are
starting their own seeds might try protecting the plants using any garden
fungicide registered for other flowers, although some products may not protect
impatiens from downy mildew. The protection needs to start in the greenhouse or
when home gardeners start seeds indoors or as soon as you bring transplants
home. Downy mildew and powdery mildew
are two separate diseases and products that work for powdery mildew may not work
for downy mildew.
If you love impatiens and like to use them for color in the
shade, consider buying your plants from a greenhouse that treats the plants
with protective fungicides. Most large wholesale growers that furnish plants to
the big retail stores will probably be using fungicides. Most knowledgeable local greenhouses will
also treat plants, since problems with the disease can begin in the greenhouse
and cost them money.
Gardeners should realize that treated plants may still
develop the disease at the end of the season, and if they do the procedures
listed earlier in the article should be followed. It still may be a good idea for gardeners to
use impatiens in small quantities and rotate flowering species as bedding
plants from year to year.
There’s no information on whether the fungicides affect
pollinators after the plants leave the greenhouse, but impatiens aren’t heavily
visited by pollinators in the garden anyway.
Fungicides are generally not as harmful to insects as other pesticides,
but experts are still trying to determine what effect the various fungicides
have on pollinators. One thing is sure
though, homemade concoctions like baking soda, milk, – or worse Epsom salts, will not prevent or cure downy mildew
and may be harmful to pollinators also.
More reading on impatiens downy mildew
Making ice cream the fun way
Do you have kids at home who are bored waiting for school to
start? Need a fun project for
camping? Here’s a way to keep kids
entertained that doesn’t cost much. Kids
love making their own individual serving of ice cream and even the small ones
can be successful. It’s quick enough to hold their attention too. Here’s the
plan.
You’ll need;
Heavy cream or half and half- plan on at least a cup per
child, older children may want more
1 tablespoon sugar
Vanilla flavoring (other flavors can be used too, like maple
or lemon)
Quart sized freezer bags- they must be zip lock or snap
lock, not tie bags
Gallon sized freezer bags, zip lock or snaplock
Coarse salt, rock salt can be used but coarse sea salt or
canning salt can be used and is easier to find this time of the year.
Ice, small cubes or coarsely broken chips are best, crushed
can be used
Here’s what to do;
In the quart sized bag put up to 2 cups of cream, sugar and a ½
teaspoon of flavoring per cup of cream.
Tightly close the bag. I always
give each child their own bag.
Put the quart bag inside a gallon size bag. Fill the space around the smaller bag with
ice. Add about a ¼ cup of the salt to
the ice. Close the gallon bag tightly.
Now have the children shake and flip their bag. Tell them to make sure they don’t break open
the inner bag with the cream, but any shaking and flipping otherwise is fine.
They can do a happy dance holding it or simply sit and flip the bag over and
over. In about 5 minutes they’ll have a
delicious serving of ice cream that they made themselves. When the ice cream
seems firm enough remove the smaller bag and wipe off the salt water before
opening it. Provide a spoon and let them
enjoy!
The very enemy of the truth is very often not the lie, deliberate,
contrived and dishonest, but the myth, persistent, persuasive, and unrealistic.
John F. Kennedy
Kim Willis
And So On….
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