© Kim Willis - no
parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.
Hi
Gardeners
Finally we got some good rain. Here at our place we got 2 and 8/10 inches of
rain from Thursday night through Sunday.
The gardens are nice and perky and I have had time to weed instead of
water. The weather experts are saying
the weather is going to return to more normal precipitation patterns this month
but we shall see. They are predicting
some hot weather this week, starting today and storms on Friday.
Speaking of weather predictions the United States has
announced that over the next 3 years they are going to be installing a new
weather monitoring/forecasting system that will be able to give “accurate”
predictions 3 weeks in advance. I am
really skeptical of that because it seems that recently they haven’t even been
able to predict 2 days in advance. I use
the National Weather Service site for my weather information and I have noticed
that the next day’s forecast can change 3 times or more in a day and still not
be accurate when the next day comes.
I can’t believe its August already. The blooming sequence of my gardens seems to
be 2 weeks or so ahead of the last couple years. In bloom now
are the late oriental lilies, Joe Pye weed, phlox, rudbeckias, purple
cone flowers, rose of Sharon, plus of course all the many annuals.
I have an interesting plant in bloom right now I have
never grown before. At the Lapeer
Horticultural Society plant swap it was a left over at the end of the evening and someone was trying to get people to take it.
It was a tiny, strange looking thing, and the person pushing it said (I
thought) that it was “Golden Globe”.
Common names are difficult, but in my mind Golden Globe is Trollius, a
spring blooming perennial. I now suspect
the person said Golden Glow however or meant to say it.
 |
| Rudbeckia laciniata Hortensia |
The tiny plant grew mightily through the summer. I hadn’t paid much attention to it until it
got to about 3 feet high and then I began to suspect it wasn’t Trollius, a
member of the buttercup family. I did some
research and as it began to bloom at about 4 feet in height I realized I had
Golden Glow, an heirloom, “pass along” plant technically known as Rudbeckia laciniata Hortensia. This cousin of black eyed Susan’s has
double flowers of golden yellow and is said to be an aggressive spreader. (The aggressive spreaders are typical plant
swap offerings.)
It’s in my butterfly garden with the aggressive spreaders
bee balm, golden rod, helenium, Maximillian sunflower, yarrow and common
rudbeckia and others so it ought to be right at home.
Speaking of butterflies I saw my first monarch in two
years here this morning. I was just
thinking that butterflies were fewer this year. I was seeing lots of cabbage butterflies and I
am seeing hummingbird moths but normally I am seeing lots of viceroy’s, and by
now I am generally seeing giant swallowtails on the black beauty lilies. I did
see a big tiger swallowtail today. See picture. Maybe my butterfly luck is changing.
 |
| Tiger swallowtail on beebalm. |
The hummingbird moth in this picture I believe is a
clearwing hawkmoth, Hemaris thysbe,
but my moth ID skills are limited. They
feed on honeysuckle, cherry and snowberry as caterpillars. They are out in the midday period and like
red, pink and yellow flowers.
 |
| Hummingbird or hawkwing moth |
Grasshoppers are plentiful this year and yesterday a
big pretty cicada landed on my shirt. I
was trying to think where I could put it while I went and got my camera but
about then Gizzy (my little dog) jumped up and snatched it off my shirt and “savagely”
killed it. Protecting his mom I guess,
although he is a bug hunter deluxe. I am
always making him leave bees alone. He
has also decided he is a duck hunter and gave me quite a scare at the pond the
other night when he jumped in the deep end to swim after one. He had yanked the long lead out of my hand
and I was worried it would tangle in the weeds and drown him. No problems though, except a dog with
algae in his long white hair.
Our large slicing tomatoes are ripening now and I just
had a good one- Brandyboy- a cross of Brandywine and Big Boy. It’s a flattened type and kind of ugly but
boy did it taste good. I highly
recommend it. We will have our first
sweet corn by the end of the week. My
corn isn’t as productive as other years – fewer ears – especially in the inner
rows. I don’t know if it’s the variety
or if its planted too closely for good pollination this year. But there are some nice ears almost ready to
eat.
August almanac
The Great Lakes Native Americans called this moons full moon (August 18th)
Sturgeon moon, because that was when these large tasty fish were easily caught
in the Great Lakes. In other places this
month’s full moon is known as the Green Corn moon or the blueberry moon. The moon apogee is the 9th and
the perigee is the 21st.
If you want to see or catch a falling star this is the month to do it. The
Perseid Meteor showers peak will be August 11th through the 13th.
This year’s meteor showers should be
double what usually falls. At the peak
you should be able to see 200 or so “falling stars” an hour. The meteor showers continue to be visible
until August 26th. Look
straight up and give your eyes a chance to adjust to the dark when watching for
meteors. At the peak you can see meteors
at any time of the night but pre-dawn viewing will be the time for maximum
sightings.
The August birth flower is the gladiolus. When glads are given to someone they signify
remembrance and integrity, perhaps that is why gladiolus are frequently found
in funeral arrangements. The August
birthstone is the peridot- a beautiful green gem.
August is National Peach month, National Picnic month, Family Fun month
and National Catfish month. The 9th is
National Book Lovers day and the 10th is National Lazy Day. The 13th is Left Handers day, the 14th is
Creamsicle day and the 26th is National Dog day. The 29th is More Herbs day. August 31st is
International Bacon day.
What’s at the Farm Markets now
August is prime time for farm markets. Slicing tomatoes, green and hot peppers,
eggplant, zucchini and summer squash, cukes, early cabbage, sweet corn, green
beans, baby carrots, green onions are some of the good eating available. Because of the drought and heat some tomatoes
and peppers are smaller than usual. Cantaloupe
are in southern Michigan markets.
Blueberry and cherry harvest is almost done in most of the state. Some raspberries are still on the market. Limited numbers of peaches and plums are on
the market but as the month progresses there will be more.
Downy Mildew now in Michigan vine crops
MSU reports that downy mildew has been found in these
counties; St. Clair, Bay, Midland, Gratiot, Arenac and Tuscola counties. Downy mildew is a serious disease of
cucumbers and melons, and also damages squash and pumpkins. It is different from powdery mildew, which is
a common problem but less destructive. We
have had problems with downy mildew in Michigan (it occurs in many states), since
2005 and it has often destroyed home cucumber patches.
Symptoms of downy mildew are light green turning to yellow
spots on the top of leaves and the bottom of the leaves will have black, water soaked
looking areas, then a purple-brown dusty or dirty appearance to the bottom of
leaves when spores appear. Cucumber
plants quickly seem to dry up and die. Downy mildew is carried to crops by the
wind and usually begins in hot, wet or humid weather. Once in your garden it will spread rapidly.
Cucumber plants rapidly die from the disease. Melons have greatly reduced production. Squash and pumpkins survive but grow more
slowly and are less productive. The best
thing to do is to prevent Downy Mildew by applying protective fungicides. You should do that now if you are in
Michigan, especially in the counties mentioned. Look for home garden fungicides that have
chlorothalonil or mancozeb in the ingredients and apply as directed. If caught early fungicides may help crops
that are lightly infected. Heavily infected crops won’t be helped.
 |
| Downy mildew on cucumber leaf, Cornell University |
There are no organic products that are effective for downy
mildew. Baking soda, Epsom salts, dish
soap and so on are useless. If you can’t
bring yourself to use a conventional fungicide then pull the plants once they
are infected and bury them away from the garden or put them in plastic bags for
the landfill. Don’t mess around with home
remedies, allowing the disease to continue spreading. Don’t compost infected plants at home. Don’t plant in the same spot next year and
make sure all plant residue is removed from the garden in the fall. Next year look for varieties that are
resistant to downy mildew.
It’s time to order those spring bulbs
Did you wish you had more tulips and daffodils this spring
or some of the wonderful lilies this summer?
Now is the time to order those bulbs for fall planting. The selection of rarer and newer bulbs is
quickly selling out, as I learned when I tried to order some lilies I want last
week. That was probably a good thing
since I found enough of them (75) to order anyway. I love lilies.
Even if you had plenty of spring blooming bulbs you may want
to order more. You lose some tulips
every year, they aren’t all reliably perennial. Some other bulbs fade after a
few years too. I like to try different varieties each year. I planted quite a few tulips last year but
the deer ate about half of them before they bloomed. I’m strategizing how to keep them safe next
spring. One thing I’m going to do in the
beds farther from the house is interplant tulips with daffodils and
alliums. Deer won’t touch either of
those plants and maybe they’ll skip the tulips among them.
An interesting concept I saw in a garden catalog is to plant
bulbs in some of your raised vegetable beds.
The bulbs bloom early, you could use them for cut flowers perhaps. You could then dig them out after they die
down and treat them as annuals, discarding them, or save the bulbs to re-plant
in the fall. You could just leave
planting gaps for things like tomatoes or peppers too; the maturing tomatoes
would hide dying bulb foliage.
I like to plant bulbs like tulips and daffodils in beds with
hosta, lilies or daylilies, depending on the light conditions. The bulbs bloom early then the hosta, lilies
or daylilies hide the fading foliage of the bulbs. Ostrich ferns are another good choice to hide
fading bulbs.
When ordering bulbs don’t forget to order some of the small,
unusual things like winter aconite, crocuses, Spanish bluebells, Dutch iris,
grape hyacinth and others. They are
charming in wooded settings, in rock gardens, and close to the house for early
spring color. Fall is the right time to
plant many woodland wildflowers like trilliums, bloodroot and trout lilies too. But don’t delay- order today.
Growing gladiolus in the garden
Gladiolus are the birth flower of August. Fifty years ago most gardeners grew glads
because they were excellent cut flowers and provided color in the summer
garden. Every farmers market had people
selling large bouquets of colorful glads. I remember walking the aisles of the farmers
market in Pontiac and buying large bunches of glads to take home to arrange. Glads are still grown in mass quantities for
the floral trade and used in professional arrangements but the average gardener
has all but forgotten the gladiolus and that’s a shame.
Glads have the reputation of being a formal flower, and as
such don’t seem to fit into the relaxed, more naturalistic gardens of
today. But there are many varieties of
glads and one doesn’t have to be a wizard to weave some of them into today’s
gardens with charming results. With a
huge range of colors and flower styles, glads offer everyone some of the most
gorgeous flowers around for the summer garden.
 |
| Glad 'Atom" |
Varieties of gladiolus
There are hundreds of varieties of glads. Choose those whose color interests you or
whose size or hardiness are right for you.
That said, here are some glad varieties that might interest you. “Black
Beauty” is a dark, red-black glad that pairs well with “Sophie” a pure white glad. “Nori”
is close to true blue with a white center.
“Yellowstone” is pure clear
yellow. “Princess Margaret Rose” is yellow with rose edges, “Coral
Lace” is coral pink with ruffled edges,
“Green Star” is lime green, “Jester” is
yellow with a red throat, “Vista” is
shades of lavender and white.
Heritage varieties of glads allow you to grow something
beautiful and keep a variety alive and thriving. “Firedance”
is small flowered but is a lovely peach with orange shading. “Starface”
is orange and yellow with a red star marking on the lower petals. “Lucky Star” is a rare fragrant glad that
is white with shadings of red and yellow in the throat. “Lilac
and Chartreuse” is those colors delightfully combined. “Atom”
is a small flowered red glad with each petal outlined in silver. “Boone”
is a cheerful small flowered yellow flushed with red. The older smaller flowered glads are easy to
blend into perennial beds.
Hardy forms of glads are sometimes called nanus
gladiolus. They are generally white with
colored throats and are small flowered. “Charming Beauty” is a soft pink nanus
glad. Acidanthera are a close relative
of gladiolus with narrower leaves. The
flowers are similar to nanus glads, generally white or pastel pink with darker
throats, although other colors exist, and they are fragrant.
 |
| Glad 'Starface' |
Corm concerns
Glads are usually sold as corms, which are a bulb like
structure covered with a papery brown husk.
The color of the glad flower sometimes appears as a faint tint on the
inner, firm area of the corm but you can’t rely on corm color to tell you
the flower color. At best it can give you a hint of which glad is which if you
mix up your varieties.
Corms are sold in the spring for spring and summer
planting. The size varies a bit between
varieties, with the corms of miniature and small flowered glads being smaller
on average than other glads. Glad corms
are graded by size and generally top size corms are 1¼ inch or larger
across. Smaller corms will produce
flower spikes that are a bit smaller but can be economical. Cormels are baby corms that are often attached
to the mother corm when you dig them in the fall. These tiny corms can sometimes be purchased
very cheaply but they may not bloom the first year they are planted.
You can buy corms in packages in stores but these have often
been subjected to warm storage conditions that promote early sprouting, rotting
and mold. You can purchase a wider range
of glads that have generally been handled and stored in better conditions from
catalogs or on line. When choosing
packaged glads look for firm, plump, non-moldy corms with no sprout or only a
tiny sprout showing. Avoid soft,
shriveled, moldy corms and those which have long yellowish sprouts.
If you are the economical person who intends to save your
glad bulbs each year you should know that the original corm will lose vigor and
may not bloom well after the third season.
That’s fine because each year when you dig your glad corms for storage
you should find new cormels on the bottom of the parent corm. These will have the exact type of flower as
the parent corm. Save these and plant
them and your glad varieties should last a long time.
Gladiolus have long narrow, sword like leaves. The size of the plants can vary from about 12
inches high to about 3 foot with the flower spikes making them even
higher. One flower spike is usually
produced from each corm. The flowers all
face one direction on the spike and begin opening from the bottom and progress
upward. Glad flowers are from an inch across to sometimes 3 or more inches
across. They come in every color from
white to the darkest red-black and every mixture of color. There are some glads with frilly, ruffled
petal edges and some with doubled petals.
Depending on the variety glads bloom from 65-100 days after the corm is
planted with good growing conditions.
Plant your corms in a sunny spot, glads prefer sandy or
sandy loam soils but will do all right in heavier soils that are well
drained. Plant corms about 3 inches
deep with the scar or flat side of the corn down. Glads should not be planted outside until all
danger of frost has passed. If you are
in a short season area or want early blooms you can start them inside in pots a
month before the last expected frost.
You may want to plant several batches of glads two weeks apart to
prolong the blooming period.
Most people who want glads for cutting plant them in rows
about 4-6 inches apart in the garden. If
you are blending them into a perennial border plant them in groups of 3-5 bulbs
and make sure they won’t be covered by expanding foliage of other plants as
they grow. In windy areas you may find
the taller glads will need staking or the support of a fence.
Mix a good slow release fertilizer into the soil as you
plant the glad corms. Glads require good
consistent watering to flower well. If
it doesn’t rain they need an inch of water or more, depending on soil drainage
per week. Mulching plants after they are 2-3 inches tall is a good idea. If you don’t cut the flower spike for a
bouquet cut it off after it finishes blooming.
Allow the leaves to yellow and die naturally before digging the corms or
removing the foliage.
Glads do produce seed if you leave the faded blooms. You can save the seed and plant it in the
spring. It will take at least 2 years to
get a bloom from the seed grown glad.
Storing corms over winter
Most varieties of glads are not hardy above zone 7 although
there are some varieties that are hardy to at least zone 6. That means that if you want to save the glad
corms you’ll need to dig them before the ground freezes and store them
inside. (But you don’t have to take this
step if it’s too much trouble, glad corms are inexpensive and you can buy more
the next year.) If you are in zones 7 or
higher simply mulch the ground over the corms with 5-6 inches of mulch before
winter. Most glads will survive the
winter and return to bloom again this way.
Treat the glads sold as semi-hardy in zone 5-6 the same way.
For those in zone 6 and lower dig the bulbs after the leaves
have yellowed or before a hard freeze.
Cut the tops off to about an inch above the corm. Let the soil dry and brush it off the
corms. Remove any old shriveled looking
corms and keep the plump new ones. Store
the dry clean bulbs in net bags or paper bags, not plastic. You can also store them in containers of dry
wood shavings. The crisper of the
refrigerator will do fine for storage, otherwise find a cool place to keep them
between 35-45 degrees F.
How to know when sweet corn is ready to eat
There is nothing better than eating sweet corn fresh from
your garden. Nothing compares to it and
this is not an exaggeration. Sweet corn
picked this morning and purchased at a local farmers market comes close but the
stuff you buy in the supermarket- does not begin to compare with it. And frozen corn? Not even close. No, the only way to get the best tasting,
most scrumptious corn in the world is to get some water boiling, walk out the
door to the garden, pick some sweet corn and husk it on the way in, boil it
just a few minutes, then slather it with butter and salt.
But to get that top flavor, you have to know when sweet corn
is ready to eat. The first time
gardeners grow corn it often takes them a few ears to learn when corn is just
right. Here are a few tricks to know when sweet corn
is ready to eat.
First look at the ears.
The ears should look large and plump and the silk at the top of the ear
should look brown and starting to dry. Feel the middle of the ear. It
should feel firm and plumb. Corn
varieties vary in the size of the ear, both in how long it is and how fat it
becomes. Many ears will not fill all the
way to the top; kernels will not develop to the tip. This is usually because of incomplete
pollination. If the middle of the ear
feels solid it may be ready.
Next gently pull down the husk to expose a bit of the corn.
This won’t hurt the ear much if it isn’t ready, you will simply smooth the husk
back over the corn. Take your fingernail and push it into a kernel of corn. If the kernel oozes clear fluid it’s not
quite ready. If the fluid is milky
looking, it’s perfect. If no fluid oozes
out or it’s thick and doughy the corn is a little overripe.
Under ripe corn will have little flavor and will taste
“green”. If the corn has been left a
little too long it will probably be edible, but it will be tough and not very
sweet. Actually all the sweet corn we
eat is not ripe. If corn is truly ripe
the kernels are dry and shriveled.
In the old days sweet corn was called green corn and was
actually immature field corn. Our modern
sweet corn varieties are sweeter and tenderer than field corn. But even sweet corn varies from variety to
variety in taste. Some people prefer
very sweet tasting corn; others prefer that a bit of corn flavor actually be
left in there. There are yellow, white
and bi-color sweet corns and even red and blue colored sweet corn. You may have to experiment to see what variety
of corn best suits your taste.
Try not to pick your homegrown sweet corn until just before
you want to cook it. Corn will stay edible on the stalk for a few days. If for
some reason you must pick it early, leave it in the husk, wrap with a damp
paper towel and store in the refrigerator.
If you are buying your corn at the farmers market ask the
seller when the corn was picked. Corn
loses sugar and tenderness every hour after it is picked and the best corn will
have been picked that morning before it was brought to market. The husk will look green and fresh, not dry
and wilted.
Husk corn then run a dampened rag or paper towel over each
ear to remove the silks. You may have to
break or cut ears to fit in a pot. After you have picked that perfect corn
don’t overcook it. Have water boiling
before you place the corn in the pot.
Put a lid on the pot and cook for about 3 minutes. The corn will darken slightly when it’s ready
to remove. Some thick long ears will
take longer to cook. Remove ears with
tongs as soon as you notice the subtle color change then let cool a bit before
eating.
If you have more corn than you can eat in a few days you may
want to can or freeze it. A good book
that will show you how to can and freeze corn is Knacks Make it Easy Guide to
Canning, Pickling and Preserving, which you can locate here. http://www.amazon.com/Knack-Canning-Pickling-Preserving-Techniques/dp/1599219506
Look at the side bar of this page for the canning and freezing tips page.
Venice Mallow -Flower of an Hour- Hibiscus triomum
If you are up early in the morning you may get to see this
pretty weed that is a cousin to our garden hibiscus. The pretty flowers of Venice Mallow are open
for only an hour or so each morning, hence the common name, Flower- of -an-
Hour. The 1½ - 2 ½ inch flowers are
white to pale yellow with purple markings at the base of the flower
surrounding the bright yellow stamens.
The flowers leave behind a small, green striped balloon-like seed pod.
 |
| Venice Mallow, or Flower of an Hour |
The leaves of Venice Mallow are shaped a lot like watermelon
leaves. They are long, deeply scalloped,
3 leaflet leaves joined at the base. The
leaves, paired with the plump striped seed pod, often lead people to believe
they are watermelon plants and they are left in the garden rather than pulled.
Venice Mallow blooms from late July until frost. The plant
can grow upright or sprawl along the ground like a small vine. It grows at the edges of gardens and field
crops with moderately fertile soil in full sun. Venice Mallow is an annual and spreads by
seeds.
Watch for butterflies
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me. You can also
ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are
welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a
meeting for free. Contact
susanmklaffer@yahoo.com Phone
810-664-8912
For Sale: I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this
spring $10 each. They are not hand
fed. Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow)
and shades of pale green, olive green, and sea green. Some I can sex now, others are a guess. You’ll need to bring your own cage. Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of
fun to watch. Call at 989-761-7609.
Also for sale Muscovy
ducklings, black laced, about a month old, fine to be without mom but you must
buy at least 2. Two for $20, each
additional $8. Call the number above. Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and
make good meat ducks. They do not quack-
and are very quiet.
Summer is
here! Our days are longer and there is more hours of light to enjoy being
outdoors. We welcome you to join us: experience nature and be inspired! Back Track
To Nature will offer programs on two of Lapeer Land Conservancy properties. As
well as at Three Roods Farm and the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary both located in
Columbiaville, MI.
We offer
environmental education programs for scouts, seniors, homeschoolers, garden
clubs, youth groups, retreats, special interest groups and we will tailor
programming to fit your specific needs.
A Council
of All Beings 10:30am - 4:30pm, Saturday, August 6, 2016 Three Roods Farm
A Great
Hundred Acre Wood Adventure ( Kids
program) 2pm - 3pm Sunday, August
14,2016 Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Aldo
Leopold Bench Building Workshop 1:30pm
- 4:30pm, Saturday, August 27, 2016
Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Reservations
are needed for all programs listed. Please call or email Karen at 810-969-1023 and
pagekp@gmail.com Directions to the
Tibbits Nature Sanctuary and Riseman Refuge will be given at the time of
registration. Thank you!
MSU Garden Day Sat, August 6, 8am-4:15 pm, MSU
Horticulture Gardens, 1066 Bogue St, East Lansing, MI
At this
conference you will be able to select your favorite garden-themed workshops and
enjoy two keynote presentations by David Culp. Pre- registration is $86 until
7/25 Go to http://www.hrt.msu.edu. To see the class selections and
register.
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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