February,
2, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter
© Kim Willis
Hi Gardeners
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| So close! |
I like February so far, although today is colder than
yesterday. I looked back at the last few years February weather though and don’t
like what I see. In the last two years
February was colder and snowier than January.
But this February is still supposed to be milder than normal with no big
snow storms in sight yet according to the latest weather reports.
If you think this January was gloomier than usual though you
were right. In January we had only 7
sunny or partly sunny days. In 2013 we had 14 sunny days, 2014 - 13 sunny days
and last year 18 sunny days. So yes it has
been cloudy. I did more weather
sleuthing this week too- see the article below on the moon’s effect on weather.
I don’t think the groundhog saw his shadow so spring is just
around the corner. The plants think
so. I have snowdrops getting ready to
bloom. I thought they would bloom today-
maybe because it’s cloudy they haven’t opened.
I know some of you further south may have crocus opening as I know mine
are getting close up near the house, but not as close as those brave snowdrops.
The grass is still green and so is my hardy bamboo, which is
generally brown by now. I took Gizmo
outside Sunday and Monday and let him experience earth beneath his feet. (We went where the grass and not mud
dominated.) He loved it and probably
would have played longer except I noticed him shivering and took him
inside. My chickens were all out
yesterday munching on green grass.
There is supposed to be rain tonight, maybe even a
thunderstorm, and the temps are going to rise through the night with 50 degrees
tomorrow. Then we drop down in temps a
bit before going back up on the weekend.
I expect if this weather holds to see crocus sometime next week- which
for me – crocus in February – will be a first. I sure hope we don’t go back to
deep snow and cold weather.
February Almanac
The names for the full moon in February, (February 22nd), reflect
the bleakness associated with the month.
It is called the Full Snow moon, Hunger moon and Bone moon among other
things.
There are 10 hours 2 min of day light today, but by the 29th
there is 11 hours and 13 min of daylight as we rapidly gain on spring equinox.
In January we only gained 48 minutes of light in 31 days. In February we gain 69 minutes in 29 days.
And yes- this is a leap year so we also gain a day. Go sun go!
Good days for planting above ground crops are 9th -10th
and 18th, 19th, below ground crops, 27th - 29th. If you want to go ice fishing try the 8th
through the 22nd , if there is any ice.
February is National Adopt a Rescued Rabbit Month, American Heart Month,
Marijuana Awareness Month, National Bird Feeding Month, National Cherry Month,
National Grapefruit Month, and National Bake for Your Family Month.
The 2nd is Candlemas day as well as Groundhog Day. It is the half way point through winter and
also the beginning of housecleaning for spring. The 5th is National Pancake Day. This year the 9th
is the start of Mardi Gras. The 12th
is Lincolns Birthday, Darwin Day and also Plum Pudding day. The 14th is Valentine’s Day as
well as National Condom day, and for those who don’t celebrate Valentine’s Day,
it’s also National Library Day. The 15th is Susan B. Anthony’s
Birthday and also Presidents Day. Tortilla
Chip day is the 24th, National Pistachio day is the 27th. National Public Sleeping Day is the 28th
, have fun with that.
The February birth flower is the violet, which symbolizes faithfulness,
humility and chastity. African violets
are being featured in many stores in February and make a good gift for a
gardener. The February birthstone is the
Amethyst.
How the moon
affects the weather
Interesting new research from the University of Washington and published
in Geophysical Research Letters,
confirms what many already believed, that the moon can affect earths weather.
There are two common cycles of the moon that seem to affect weather. One is the familiar phases of the moon, from
new moon- when you don’t see a moon, ¼ moon- a crescent shaped moon,( dark on
our left) full moon and the ¾ moon (a crescent moon dark on our right). This cycle reflects how the moon is rotating
on its axis.
The second kind of cycle involves where the moon is in its orbit around
the earth. This orbit is egg shaped and
the moon is farther away from earth at some points and closer at others. This is the apogee/perigee cycle. The phases of the moon and the apogee/perigee
cycle don’t always match up.
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| Moon rise, Yosmite, Matt Walker |
At apogee when the moon is farthest from earth, the air pressure is
lower, the temperature tends to be lower and rainfall slightly more frequent
and heavier. At perigee, the closest the
moon is to the earth the air pressure rises, temperature rises and rain is
lighter and less likely. That’s because the moons gravity is strong enough to
create a bulge in the atmosphere, pulling it toward the moon. This increases
the capacity of the atmosphere to hold moisture.
Also research has found that there is more likely to be rain around the
new or full moon although why that is isn’t certain. And if the new or full moon is close to
apogee, storms and/or precipitation may be even stronger. These cycles don’t
cause a vast difference and there is no guarantee that your area will or won’t
get rain or snow at a certain time.
I keep track of the weather on a special calendar so I decided it would
be fun to check last year’s precipitation events against when new moon, full
moon and when apogee, perigee occurred. Scientists
say the enhanced effect of the moon can occur a day before, day of, or day
after the moon phase or location peak so that is what I included.
Here’s what I found – last year we had rain or snow close to the new
moon 11 times out of 12. (None in September.)
It was generally the day after the new moon. Precipitation around the apogee
occurred 5 times, perigee 7 times, full moon 5 times. (There are times when the
perigee or apogee is the same day as a new or full moon.) At apogee the weather
turned colder 10 times out of 13 apogees in 2015. In October the new moon and the apogee were a day
apart and in the 3 day span we had our first frost and then rain. I also chose a random day to check- the 10th
of each month- and there was precipitation 5 times.
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| Windcave National Park, by Kadek Susanto |
Now I just compared one year so who knows if that effect holds over time. I have marked the calendar with the apogee
and perigee points and the moon phases for each month this year, and it will be
interesting to see if the trend continues.
In January this year we did have snow the day after the new moon (January
9th). In February the new moon is the 8th and the long range
forecast predicts snow showers. So if
the trend is true expect rain/snow around the new moon and cooler temperatures
around the apogee each month.
If you would like to try your own record keeping here’s how. Many
calendars have the moon phases noted on them but you can get the moon phase and
the apogee/perigee point at this site: http://www.timeanddate.com/astronomy/moon/distance.html
Mark a calendar with the moon cycles and keep track of the weather.
Other effects the moon may have that have some scientific studies behind
them include an increase in animal medical emergencies around the full moon,(Colorado
State University, 2007) and a decrease in sleep quality and quantity in humans
around the full moon. (University of Basel in Switzerland, 2013).
Gardening you can
do in February
In Michigan in February the weather usually isn’t conducive to much
outdoor gardening but people are getting the urge to garden as the days grow
longer. There are some gardening activities that can be done in planting zones
6 and lower, however, to ease that longing we all share. Of course if you are a
reader in the south your gardening options will be much greater.
If you need to find your gardening zone check this article.
Prune fruit trees. On a mild day get out there with your pruning
tools and get the job done. Consult a
good fruit tree pruning manual if you need instructions on how to do it. You can prune other trees too, but don’t
prune any spring flowering shrubs until after they have finished blooming. See
the article below for pruning apple trees.
Check plants for
damage. We have had a lot of freezing
and thawing this season. In some cases
this will cause plants to “heave” or
lift out of the ground. Check perennial
beds carefully and if you can re-plant any plants with exposed roots. If when you find a “heaved” plant the ground
is too hard to do this place a heavy layer of mulch or some thawed soil over
the roots about 6 inches deep. Mark the
spot and re-position the plant in the soil as soon as possible.
Check tree bases for gnawing on the bark if they are not protected. Circle young tree trunks with wire mesh 3
feet high to stop damage. Deer and
rabbits may be munching on other landscape shrubs. You may be able to cover them with netting to
prevent further damage.
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| Girdling by rabbits. |
You may also want to look for frost splitting or cracking on thin barked
trees. When the sun shines on a trunk
and it warms up the bark expands. Then
as night comes and the temperature falls the bark shrinks, and can crack. This
is not good for the tree, allowing disease and insects to invade as well as
looking bad. You can protect the sunny side of a tree by shading it with a
board or wrapping the tree trunk in white plastic “tree wrap”.
Check stored bulbs
and dormant plants- If you stored summer bulbs like canna or dahlias check
them to see if they are drying out- shriveling – and add a little moisture to
the packing material if they are. If
they are moldy or soft bring them out of storage. Remove mushy parts and spread any remaining
bulbs or root pieces out on dry newspaper in a warm, dark place for a few
days. Then return to storage after replacing
any damp storage material with dry.
If you have dormant plants in pots, check the soil to see how dry it
feels. Add a little water if the soil
feels too dry. It’s tricky keeping these
plants at just the right stage of dormancy. You don’t want them to start
growing too soon; they’ll get lanky and prone to insect attacks. But you don’t want them to dry out beyond the
point of no return either. As the days
get longer they will need a little more water.
If you do notice new growth it’s time to move the pots to the brightest
light possible and resume watering.
Plant seeds, and start
cuttings but use common sense. Most plants should
only be started about 6-8 weeks before they can be planted outside. If you have a warm greenhouse this may not be
as important but for those who start seeds under lights, in a windowsill or
coldframe you should consider how long the young plants will be growing in
these conditions before they can be planted.
Plants that are held inside under less than ideal conditions will become
leggy, and stressed. They are prone to disease and insect attacks. And the larger they are the more indoor space
they need. It’s better to plant short,
compact, healthy seedlings outside than long, pale floppy ones. Tomatoes and
peppers, for example can’t be planted out until after the last frost which for
zone 5-6 gardeners is about mid-May. Most seedlings should be 6-8 weeks old at
transplanting time. Your tomato and pepper seeds should be started at the end
of March- beginning of April. Check the
seed package, or check a reference to see how long before transplanting into
the garden seeds should be started.
Seeds that should be started in February are those that grow slowly or
that can be planted outside very early.
Seeds of geraniums, coleus, impatiens, violas, pansies, and of some
perennial flowers can be started now.
Cuttings of geraniums and some other tender plants can be started. You can also pot the bulbs of tuberous begonias,
callas and caladiums to get them growing but wait on things like dahlias, glads
and cannas, which will get too large before transplanting.
Here are some tips for starting seeds inside.
Ordering plants
and seeds- This is the ideal time to get your seed and plant orders done. If you wait too long you may not get some of
the things you want. Check last month’s blog January 5th, for list
of catalog links.
Check tools, paint
and repair planters and other items. Yes
there are lots of little jobs and creative endeavors that can be done now,
before you want to spend every waking hour outside. Maybe you could build a birdhouse, repaint some
old planters in a vivid hue, make some hypertufa troughs or a ceramic bird
path.
How to prune an apple
tree
This article discusses some general considerations for apple tree
pruning. To get the best quality fruit,
apple trees need to be pruned and thinned. It is always better to see the technique
rather than to read about it. In some
areas classes are held in late winter to show homeowners how to prune fruit
trees. These are often sponsored by the
local Extension office or a garden club.
Pruning their apple tree is a daunting task to most homeowners and
something that keeps many from trying to grow apples. But homeowners with a little common sense and
good tools should be able to prune their apple trees well enough to get good
fruit results.
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| Apple blossoms. |
Do you have to prune your apple trees?
Its true many apple trees will continue to set fruit each year regardless
of whether they are pruned or not. But
in most cases the fruit will be smaller and the quantity less than if a tree is
properly pruned. Unpruned trees are hard
to care for and even harder to pick apples from.
If you do no other pruning keep any sprouts that come up from the ground
or from the trunk below the graft cut off.
Almost all apple trees are grafted and these shoots come from the root
portion of the graft, which is generally not a good eating apple. These shoots are often very vigorous and will
compete with the shoots from the top part of the graft for light and nutrients.
There are some variations in apple pruning styles and how to leave the
shape of the tree but the method below is the most common one for homeowners
with little pruning experience. These
instructions are for semi-dwarf and standard sized trees. True dwarf trees need specialized pruning.
Why Do Apple Trees
Need Pruning?
If an apple tree was allowed to develop naturally it would still produce
fruit. The apples will be smaller and
fewer though because the tree will be using a lot of energy to support all the
branches. Pruning opens up the tree so
that apples developing in the center get sunlight and the airflow decreases
disease problems. Pruning also controls the height of the tree so the homeowner
can continue to pick the fruit and spray the trees easily.
Pruning should be done a little each year and not drastically in the
year when you realize suddenly that you haven’t been taking care of the
trees. If the trees have been neglected and
are quite large and overgrown it is better to take several years to get the
trees back in shape rather than trying to do it all at once.
What Tools Are
Needed?
To prune apple trees you will need hand pruners, loppers and a tree saw.
If the tree is tall you may want a pole pruner. All of these tools should be kept sharp. If
you start when the tree is young you may not need a ladder, but if the tree has
been neglected a ladder will be necessary.
It is a good practice to clean the tools with rubbing alcohol between
trees. This keeps disease from spreading.
To prune old neglected trees you will probably need a chain saw. You may also want someone to help you do it.
How to Begin
Pruning should begin the first winter after you plant your apple tree.
Apple trees should always be pruned in late winter, before the tree begins to
show green on the leaf buds. If this is the 2nd or 3rd
winter of your apple tree’s life at your home you can also use these pruning suggestions.
Pruning cuts on smaller branches to shorten their length should be made
just above a node, that’s the swollen area where a leaf or stem will develop.
It should be at a slight angle, sloping downward and as close to the node as
possible. Pruning cuts on large branches
that are being removed, or tiny branches sprouting off the trunk, should be
made as close to the trunk or main branch as possible. The cuts do not need any
pruning paint or sealer.
During the first growing season, the small tree should have put out some
vertical, (top), growth. Cut this back by about a third. If two branches have grown strongly upright
to form a forked top, one should be removed. You want one main trunk on your
tree. On older trees remove about a
third of the height on the main leader, unless you want the tree to be taller.
An exception is if the tree did not grow much, if it’s less than a foot
taller than when you planted it, or has grown less than a foot in the previous
season, don’t remove any height. If the
tree hasn’t branched very much you may also want to wait until the next winter
to prune it.
Remove damaged and broken branches and branches growing straight up,
other than the main trunk or leader. Remove branches that cross or rub on each
other, (at least one of them). Remove branches that grow downward rather than
out. Remove branches that grow in toward
the center of the tree. The first winter
there may not be a lot of branches that need to be removed.
Remove any branches that have grown out of the trunk lower than 2 feet
from the ground or any below the graft union, which looks like a bulge on a
small trunk. Remove any shoots coming directly out of the ground by the tree.
Now examine the small tree. The goal is to eventually have evenly spaced
branches in a spiral pattern around the tree. This lets in sunlight. Try not to have one branch directly over
another and branches on the same level should be a few feet apart at their
ends.
The main branches should join the trunk at an angle close to 90 degrees.
This type of angle supports the weight of fruit better and is less likely to
break in storms. Branches growing out at
a good angle seem to develop flower buds faster than those that go upward and
produce more flowers. Try to leave those
branches when choosing which to prune or leave.
Small branches can be trained to grow at a better angle by using
spreaders. This works on branches less
than pencil size in diameter. A spreader
is simply a piece of wood or plastic with a fork on each end. One end goes against the tree trunk and the
other against the limb and then is adjusted until it pushes the branch into a
90 degree angle with the tree. An old
fashioned wood clothespin can be clipped on the stem and used to spread tiny
branches. All spreaders should be
removed the next winter when you go back to prune the tree.
Shorten the length of branches so that they follow a cone shape, with
the lower branches being longer than the upper.
On these cuts go back to just above a leaf node. The very lowest branches should be shortened
to about 10 feet from the tree, if they are longer than that.
The next year you will follow pretty much the same pattern. Remove a third of the top and remove any
branches that are trying to become second leaders. Thin out branches so that
they are in tiered levels, with the tiers about a foot apart and the branches
in the tiers are not directly over a branch in the lower tier. Prune off small
branches coming off the main branches that grow toward the inside of the
tree. Keep branches 10-12 feet in length
from the trunk by cutting them back to a node if needed. They may need to be
even shorter on smaller semi-dwarf trees.
When you look at a properly pruned apple tree it will look very skimpy
next to an untrimmed tree, especially before it leafs out. Don’t worry; this is the healthiest and most
productive tree.
Always prune off water sprouts as soon as they develop, even during the
growing season. These are small branches that grow on the trunk, below where
the first level of branches is developing.
They may also sprout up out of the ground from the roots.
As the apple tree grows older continue this pattern. When the tree reaches a certain height, say
12 foot, you may want to limit it to that height each year. This makes it
easier to pick apples and spray the tree for disease and pests.
Trimming Old
Neglected Trees
If an apple tree has been neglected for many years it is possible to
bring it back into a more manageable state, but it will take time and
effort. Before you begin have someone
examine the tree to make sure it is sound and healthy. This is a job that you may want to have an
experienced person do. The tree will not produce much fruit during this
time.
If you decide to do it yourself do not just lop the top off the
tree. It needs to be lowered slowly, 1/3
of the height and width, and about a third of the branches removed each
year. Large branches will probably
require a chain saw for removal. Keep the tree well-watered and give it fruit
tree fertilizer as the re-shaping progresses.
You know late winter will find you bored and longing to garden. Pruning the fruit trees is an ideal task to
get you outside and great for the trees too.
Here’s a video you might like to watch. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20053952,00.html
Garlic news
Some of you may know this already, but science has confirmed that if you
want to get the smell of garlic off your breath you should drink some milk, the
fatter the milk the better. (Food Science and Technology at The Ohio State
University). For best results you should
drink the milk while eating a garlic laced meal although drinking it after also
helps. It seems the sulfur compounds in garlic that make it smell bind to milk
fat.
Last month’s ACS' Journal of
Agricultural and Food Chemistry reported that sprouted garlic is best if
you are looking to get medicinal value from garlic. Garlic is used to lower cholesterol, lower blood
pressure and boost the immune system among other things. The new research found
that letting old garlic bulbs sprout for 5 days, or using garlic seedlings
greatly increased its antioxidant qualities.
Also sprouting garlic has different metabolites than the cloves, which
may have their own helpful effects.
Growing violets
and violas
Violets and violas can be weeds or flowers depending on your point of
view. But they are so pretty and easy to
grow that every Michigan gardener should grow them. Violets and violas can be
found both in gardening handbooks and in weed identification books, proof that
one man’s weed is another man’s flower. These pretty flowers have been grown in
gardens for centuries, even if they were never planted there!
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| Viola |
There are only slight differences in violets and violas and they belong
to the same plant family. Violet leaves
are generally round or heart shaped. Viola leaves are more oblong, and usually have
serrated edges. Both violets and viola flowers have five petals and a flower
“spur” or tube at the back which contains nectar. Most violet flowers are very fragrant; some
violas however, have little scent. The
flowers are favorites of bees and butterflies.
Many violets and violas also have markings on the petals that direct the
pollinator to the honey spur, when they find the treasure they also pollinate
the plant.
Violets and violas also have another type of flower, rarely seen. It generally appears at the base of the plant
in the fall, has no petals and no scent.
It is thought to be pollinated by ground beetles and can produce many
seeds.
Both violets and violas grow in many locations across the world,
although most prefer cooler areas. Many
varieties escape cultivation and become pests.
But how can you dislike such perky invaders?
Violets and violas make excellent, fast growing groundcovers in partial
shade. They can be planted in rock and
alpine gardens. They will quickly cover
an area if you let them, so care and forethought should be used in selecting a
site to plant them in. Violets or violas
make excellent container plants, good for cool season color.
Care of violets
and violas
Common violets and Labrador violets are hardy to zone 3- some varieties
from Asia and southern Europe are not as hardy, so check the zone hardiness
before planting. They seldom need
fertilization and are bothered by few pests or diseases. While they will grow
in heavy shade, violets and violas both require at least a few hours of
sunlight or dappled shade for the best bloom. They will grow in sunny areas, if they are
kept well-watered.
Violets and violas are usually purchased as plants. They can be planted at any time of the year
as long as they are kept moist. Violas
can also be started from seed. The seed
can be sown outside where they are to grow as soon as the soil can be
worked. Viola seed can also be started
inside about 12 weeks before you want blooming plants.
While most violets and violas are considered perennials, individual
plants are not long lived. Most
varieties of violets and violas, however, spread by rhizomes and seed quite
happily, and after you plant them in a suitable place, you should have them for
many years
Violets and violas bloom best in cool weather. During hot weather they will quit blooming
but will resume bloom again when the weather cools. Keep dead blooms picked off to encourage a
longer bloom time.
Some varieties
The common violet , viola odorata,
appears in many color variations, even in the wild. There are white, rose, bi-colored, blue and
various shades of purple that we call violet.
This violet is also known as Sweet Violet, and during Victorian times
many large flowered varieties were developed for cut flowers and for the
perfume trade. Some of these varieties
still exist and are sold in specialty catalogs.
Birds Foot Violet is native to North American woodlands. It has a pretty lilac and white flower and
oddly lobed leaves, said to resemble bird’s feet. Another North American native, known as the
Woods Violet, has yellow flowers. The
Labrador violet has pretty purple shaded foliage as well as tiny violet flowers
and is hardy to zone 3.
Johnny Jump Ups or Hearts- Ease have small yellow and purple flowers and
are often found growing wild. The
cultivated variety is sold as ‘Helen
Mount’. ‘Skippy XL Red-Gold’ is a viola with bright red, gold and lavender
flowers. ‘Bilbo Baggins’ is a viola with pastel purple and yellow flowers,
each marked with a dark center. ‘Angel Tiger Eyes’ is a deep golden color
with striking black veins and a black throat on each flower. ‘Rebecca’
is a viola from Germany with nearly white, extremely fragrant flowers, which
have a purple edge
The Asian violets or violas often have larger, more oblong leaves and
the leaves are often quite striking in color.
‘Silver Samurai’ has ruffled
green foliage streaked with silver and light lavender flowers. ‘Fugi
Dawn’ has arrow shaped leaves touched with pink and cream, and deep blue
flowers.
Other uses for violets
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| Common violet |
The flowers and leaves of violets and violas are edible and make
excellent additions to spring salads.
The flowers can be crystallized in sugar and used as decorations on
cakes. Both violets and violas had many
medicinal uses in the past. They are
high in vitamin C and a compound called rutin.
Rutin is being studied for its beneficial effects on veins and arteries,
making them more flexible and strong.
Violet water has long been used as a skin tonic.
Violet and viola flowers lend their color and scent to many liquids, the
flowers can be soaked in vinegar, or a light cooking oil and the resulting fluid used in cooking. Wine is also made from violet and viola
flowers. Think what excitement a
Michigan violet wine could cause!
Get outside and
check for February flowers
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and a library wants for
nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.
Free seeds
I have
these seeds that I collected from my garden that I am willing to share
free. Look at the list and if you would
like some contact me at kimwillis151@gmail.com
I will tell
you where to send a stamped self-addressed envelope for the seeds. If you want
popcorn or black walnuts it will take several stamps. I have published this list on the seed swap
sites also. I’ll try to give everyone
who asks some until they are gone.
Lilies, a
seed mixture of assorted hybrids, oriental- Asiatic- trumpet- Casa Blanca,
Stargazer, La Reve, purple tree, yellow tree, Silk Road, more
Anise
hyssop
Morning
glory – common purple
Scarlet
runner bean - few
Japanese
hull-less popcorn
Hosta
asst.of seed from numerous varieties- lots
Ligularia
desmonda (daisy–like flower)
Ligularia
rocket – spires of flowers
Yucca
Glad mixed
Zinnia
mixed
Foxglove
Dalmation peach
Calendula
mixed
Baptisia
blue
Jewelweed
Cleome
white
Columbine
mixed- small amount
Nicotiana
small bedding type- mixed colors
Nicotiana
sylvestris (woodland tobacco, Only the Lonely)
Daylily
mixed
Kangaroo
Paws orange
Hollyhock
mixed
Black
walnut- few hulled nuts
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/
Growing Great Gardens – Saturday,
March 12, 2016 - 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM - Heinz C Prechter Performing Arts Center,
21000 Northline Rd, Taylor, MI
Are you a
"plant geek"? Ready for some inspiration? Calling all gardeners for a
day of learning, food, prizes and fun at the 8th annual Growing Great Gardens.
Enjoy renowned horticulture gurus Scott Beuerlein, Joe Tychonievich, Ed Blondin
and Susan Martin. Lunch included. Master Gardeners can earn education hours,
too! (5-6 hours, depending on whether you sign up for the BONUS class at lunchtime.
Costs: $45 before 1/31. Lunch & learn class $10.
More
info- Phone: 888-383-4108
Grand Rapids Smart Gardening
Conference 2016, March
5, 2016, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. DeVos Place, Grand Rapids, Michigan
Several
speakers on native plants, low impact/care gardening, pollinators. More info-
Cost: Early
Bird Registration by Feb. 15, 2016 - $60, Late Registration - $70 Enrollment
deadline is Friday, Feb. 26, 2016 or until full. Registration at the door is
not available.
Contact:
Diane Brady, bradydi1@anr.msu.edu, 616-632-786
Great Lakes Hosta College, March
18-19, 2016, Upper Valley Career Center in Piqua, Ohio.
Students
attend 5 classes they have chosen from a program of over 70 classes taught by a
faculty of approximately 50 volunteers. Mid-day each student has lunch from a
delicious buffet included in the registration fee. At the end of the day
students take a brief break and then return for a banquet and talk that
concludes the Hosta College experience.
The vending
area offers a large selection of plants (even though it may be snowing
outside!), garden accessories, tools, and other garden-related merchandise for
shoppers. The Bookstore features gardening books at fantastic discounts,
stationery, society clothing items, and other Hosta College souvenirs. Persons
who belong to one of the local societies with membership in the Great Lakes
Region receive preferential registration and a reduced registration fee. $42 registration fee for members, $55 registration
fee for non-members.
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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