July 28,
2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
Hi Gardeners
Well we can
safely say summer weather has arrived. I
don’t like hot humid weather one bit.
Some plants thrive in it though, but some plant diseases also love this
weather and can become a problem. I
write about two of them below. Make sure
to keep hanging baskets and container plants well-watered in the heat. You may have to water twice a day, I know I
sometimes do.
It’s almost
August- can you believe that- and gardens are at their color peak. I have some huge volunteer sunflowers in
bloom, zinnias and dahlias are blooming and the wild Jewelweed is now providing
lots of tiny flowers for the hummingbirds and bees. My larger tomatoes are ripening and the sweet
corn has ears. I have harvested several
cabbages and some carrots. Blackberries
and raspberries are ripe.
I was
enthusiastic about my solar fountain pumps earlier in the season but I am not
so happy now that both have quit working.
One quit after two weeks, the other quit yesterday after maybe 6 weeks
of work. These were inexpensive but if
you have to replace them several times a season you might as well buy something
more expensive.
Milkweed is
blooming in my fields but I have yet to see more than the one Monarch butterfly
I saw early in the summer. The
swallowtail butterflies are fewer this year too. Toads and frogs are abundant this year but at
my house we have only seen one turtle this summer and no snakes. I think the last 2 winters have been very
hard on them.
Late Blight in Michigan ( tomatoes and
potatoes)
According to
the MSU Late Blight monitoring site there has been confirmed cases of late
blight in potato fields in Montcalm County which is on the west side of the
state. When late blight is found on
potato fields, there is a good chance tomatoes will soon be affected. The conditions will be excellent- warm and
humid – for late blight for at least the next week. The site predicts most of the state will have
an elevated risk of late blight development during the next few days.
 |
| USDA Blight Leaf and stem images courtesy of Meg McGrath, Cornell University and tomato fruit image courtesy of Jean Ristaino, NC State University. |
Symptoms of
late blight include a blackened, water soaked or greasy look to leaves, stems
and tomato fruit or potato tubers, with rapid wilting and death of the plant
within a few days. The blackened areas
may look brown at first, and often have white fuzzy looking growth (fungus) on
them. Check the backs of darkened leaves to look for white fungal growth. Tomato fruits that are green or ripe can be
affected with hardened brownish black spots. Most other tomato diseases take a
long time to kill a plant and the plants keep putting out new growth. Late blight spreads from plant to plant very
quickly so in warm, wet weather home gardeners should check their plants daily
for symptoms.
Many other
tomato diseases have similar symptoms
and home gardeners may have a hard time deciding if their plants have late
blight or a somewhat less serious fungal disease. It is hard for home gardeners to find
somewhere to get a good diagnostic report done on a sample of your plants. If your county still has an Extension office
with a horticulture department you can try there or you can take a sample to
MSU’s plant and soil diagnostic clinic in East Lansing. There is a fee for diagnostic work there. For
accurate diagnoses the sample must be picked fresh, with symptoms showing on
foliage and or fruit and brought to the lab within a few hours.
Here’s the
contact information:
578 Wilson
Rd., Room. 107 East Lansing, MI
48824-6469
Phone: (517) 355-4536 Fax:
(517) 432-0899
pestid@msu.edu
There is
little home gardeners can do to prevent late blight other than to begin
spraying your potatoes and tomatoes with fungicides before the plants are
affected. After symptoms begin spraying
won’t help that plant and it should be pulled and put in a plastic trash bag
including all fruit and leaves that fall off. Tie the bag tightly and send it to the
landfill or let it sit in the sun for several weeks and then burn the residue. The only preventative sprays effective that
homeowners can easily get are those with Chorothalonil and some copper based
fungicides. Look for a garden
fungicide, check the ingredients and make sure it lists late blight as being
controlled. Follow the label directions
exactly. Also water early in the day so
foliage dries before nightfall. Don’t
eat tomatoes or potatoes with late blight lesions or can them.
This hot
humid weather is sure to bring on Black Spot in roses if you aren’t protecting
them with sprays or growing resistant varieties – Here’s an article on Black
Spot.
Black Spot on roses
One of the
most common diseases of roses is Black Spot. Black spot is a disease caused by
the fungus, Diplocarpon rosa. It is extremely common in older varieties of
tea roses but when conditions are right even roses marked as resistant to Black
Spot can develop a mild case of the disease.
Warm humid conditions, especially when there are heavy dews or the
foliage stays wet overnight are the prime times for Black Spot to develop.
Black Spot
causes black spots on the upper surfaces of rose leaves, surrounded by a yellow
area. If the fungus is heavy the leaves
may look almost totally yellow, sprinkled with black spots. Rose flower petals may show streaking, red
spots or distorted areas. Infected
leaves soon drop off the plant. The
plant struggles to put out new foliage and this weakens the plant and reduces
blooming. Infected plants may not
survive the winter as well as those with mild or no infection. And half bare, yellow leaved plants just
aren’t very attractive.
Black spot
overwinters on rose leaves on the soil or on the rose canes. Rain and wind move the spores to new foliage
on the roses in the spring. When conditions
are right, (warmth and humidity), usually about June, the fungus germinates and
infects the rose.
How to control Black Spot
 |
| Black Spot on roses |
If you have
had problems with Black Spot in the past or your area experiences lots of
humid, hot weather you’ll want to plant roses with resistance to Black Spot.
Some modern shrub roses have pretty good resistance to Black Spot and rarely
require treatment. Even some tea roses
have recently been bred that have some resistance. Older roses with resistance are the gallicas,
rugosa’s and albas. If you don’t like
chemical spraying choose resistant varieties and hope for the best.
Resistant
varieties are not immune to Black Spot.
In really heavily infested areas and ideal conditions even resistant
roses may get Black Spot. Some resistant varieties perform better in some
geographical areas than others. If one
variety of rose always seems to get infected in your garden try another rose or
at least another location in the garden.
Other ways to
control black spot are to remove all rose leaves from under the plant in the
fall or early spring before the plant leafs out. During growing season pick off any yellowed
or spotted leaves and remove those that fall on the ground as soon as you see
them. Don’t crowd the roses, they need
good air circulation and roses against buildings or with hedges behind them may
have more problems with black spot.
Water your
roses at the base, trying not to wet the foliage and do so early in the day so
the foliage dries before evening. Keep roses
healthy by planting them in full sun and regularly fertilizing them as roses
are heavy feeders. You’ll also want to
control rose insects such as rose chafers and Japanese beetles as these weaken
the plant and make them more susceptible to damage from black spot.
There are
many chemical controls for Black Spot and other fungal diseases of roses. If
you are going to use fungicides begin spraying in June or as soon as you see
even one infected leaf. If you want nice
looking tea roses you will probably want to start a spray schedule soon after
the plants leaf out. Follow label directions and keep up the schedule for best
results. The sprays don’t help already
infected leaves but they do help new foliage stay healthy to make food for the
plant.
The Consumers’
Association Magazine put eight fungicides to the test between April and October
last year to combat black spot on roses.
The products they found did the best job were Bayer Garden Systhane
Fungus Fighter Concentrate, Scotts Fungus Clear Ultra, and Bayer Garden
Multirose 2 Ready-to-use.
The test was
conducted on a variety of modern rose called ‘Silver Jubilee’ which has some resistance to black spot. Black spot was noticed in June on the roses
and treatment according to label directions was begun. Some roses were left untreated as a
control. The researchers found that any
chemical product was better than no treatment.
There are organic treatments on the market but many of these do little
or nothing to control fungal disease.
Beware of so
called “home remedies” for Black Spot on roses.
Soap solutions do not work on fungal disease. Alcohol, peroxide and
other odd substances may actually harm roses, and you won’t see the experiences
of the people who have had that happen in the advertisements for books and
magazines listing these miraculous cures.
With the many
disease resistant varieties of roses on the market and a little tolerance for
less than perfect foliage almost everyone can grow roses, even without chemical
sprays. Don’t let the fear of Black Spot
or other rose diseases keep you from enjoying them in your garden.
Another reason to avoid soybean oil
New research
done at the University of California, Riverside, found that when animals were
fed soybean oil as their source of fat, they had a 25% higher increase in
weight, more insulin resistance and liver damage and developed fatty liver and
diabetes more often than animals fed coconut oil as a source of fat. The amount of soy oil added to animal diets
was calculated so that it was the dietary equivalent of the amount of soybean
oil consumed by the average American.
Both diets had the same percentage of fat and calories.
When fructose
was added to both diets the animals with soybean oil and fructose were the
least healthy, adding kidney and bowel diseases and cancer to the other health
problems. When fructose was added to the
coconut oil groups diet it did increase weight gain by 9% but effects like
diabetes and liver problems still remained lower than the soy and fructose
group.
Researchers
point out that the rise in obesity and diabetes in the US correlates strongly
with the rise in consumption of soybean oil in the US and that the rise in use
of high fructose corn syrup may have exacerbated certain disease problems. Certainly the combination of soybean oil and
fructose is not healthy. Research is
going to continue, comparing other fats like lard and olive oil to see their
effects on health. My bet is that olive
oil will be found to be healthy- no surprise there, but that lard will also be
found to be healthier for you than soybean oil.
Currently 60%
of the edible oil used in products or for cooking in the US is soybean
oil. If you look at food labels of
processed foods you’ll find soybean oil in a large percentage of them. Salad dressings are almost always made with
soybean oil so you are dousing a healthy food with something very bad for
you. If you are concerned about weight
gain, diabetes, and liver disease you should be avoiding all sources of soybean
oil.
Pot for pain
A new
research trial at the University of California San Diego found the inhalation
of cannabis (marihuana) helped ease diabetic nerve pain in patients that
weren’t getting relief from prescription pain killers. The side effects were that patients got happy
and sleepy.
Cosmos- light and lively summer
charmer
No, we aren’t
talking about the ladies magazine or the vast universe but rather a delightful
annual flower that can light up the summer garden. Cosmos are unusual because the common name
and scientific name are the same, although Cosmos is the genus name and there
are several species. Cosmos bipinnatus is a common garden
species, but many cosmos species have been hybridized to make some garden
varieties. Cosmos atrosanguineus,
often sold in catalogs as chocolate cosmos or chocolate daisy is thought to be
extinct in the wild.
 |
| Cosmos |
Cosmos are
native to Mexico, South America and the southern United States. It is thought
that Spanish priests growing them in Mexican named them because of the orderly
spacing of the petals – cosmos refers to “orderly universe” in Greek or Latin. Most garden species are annuals but some
perennial species exist. In many places
around the world Cosmos have naturalized or gone wild. Cosmos will grow in poor, dry soil and are
easy to grow. They are excellent for
children’s gardens, cottage style and informal beds and also attract
butterflies and bees. Cosmos are good
cutting flowers too.
The Cosmos bipinnatus plant and related
cultivars has fine, narrow leaves that occur in pairs along the stem, giving
them a lacy or ferny look. Their flowers generally occur in pastel colors,
rose, lavender and white. Cosmos
sulphureus or the yellow cosmos has broader, lobed leaves. The colors of
this cosmos and its cultivars are hot colors, red, orange and yellow. Cosmos range
from about 2 feet to 4 feet or so tall, depending on the variety and growing
conditions.
All cosmos
flowers are daisy like, with a yellow center and colored petals surrounding the
disk. Some ornamental cosmos have the
petals rolled into a quill or “shell” shape. There are now cosmos flowers that are bi-color
or streaked. Cosmos begin blooming in
mid-summer, as the days begin to shorten and with a little deadheading will
bloom until frost.
Some
varieties of cosmos are ‘Seashells’ –
a mixture of pastel flowers with rolled or quilled petals, 'Candy Stripe' which is
white with red streaks, 'Day Dream' is
white with a red center, 'Picotee' has
white petals with red edges, ‘Antiquity’ comes in shades of dusky pinks and
mauves, ‘Double Take’ is a lovely
double flowered form white , with red or pink stripes, ‘Double Click’ has double flowers in soft pinks, ‘Bright Lights’ is a mixture of hot
colors, ‘Sensation’ is a mix of
pastel colors. A cultivar of the
chocolate cosmos, Cosmos atrosanguineus is ‘Choca
Mocha’ which is a deep chocolate color.
Cultivation of cosmos
You can
sometimes find started plants in the spring but cosmos are very easy to grow
from seed sown directly in the garden.
Simply sprinkle the seeds on bare moistened soil where you want them to
grow after danger of frost has passed and lightly cover them with soil. Plants grown from seed will often bloom at
the same time as plants set out as transplants because cosmos don’t bloom until
the days are getting shorter. Thin
seedlings to about a foot apart.
Cosmos will
thrive in almost any soil and can tolerate some drought, although they
appreciate some watering when it’s really dry.
They need full sun. Moderate
fertilization, such as a timed release flower food mixed into the soil at
planting, may increase the number and size of flowers but it may also cause the
cosmos to “flop” which they are somewhat prone to anyway. They are best mixed in among sturdier plants
that help support them or planted in a dense group to help them support each
other. Cosmos have few insect pests or
diseases and will generally flower reliably for you.
Deadheading-
removing the flowers as they fade- keeps the cosmos plant blooming longer and
encourages it to produce flowering side branches. As frost approaches you may want to let some
flowers alone and collect the seeds that form.
Or you can let the seeds fall in the garden, which some seem to do
anyway, and they will usually sprout when the weather warms. Be watching the area for the tiny seedlings
next spring and don’t pull them thinking they are weeds.
If you need a
tough, easy flower to add late summer color to the garden try some cosmos.
Eastern Michigan State Fair
If it’s not
too hot this week I may visit the Eastern Michigan State Fair, Imlay City, Michigan. It starts today, July 28 and runs through
Saturday, August 1st.. The
Lapeer Master Gardeners have a building there you might want to visit. There won’t be any poultry there this year
because of avian flu but there will be other farm animals, fair food, rides,
grandstand events, a circus and so on all for one low admission price, free
parking. Admission is $15 except for
Tuesday and Wednesday when its $10 until 2 pm.
“One of the pleasures
of being a gardener comes from the enjoyment you get looking at other people's
yards.”
― Thalassa Cruso, To
Everything There Is a Season: The Gardening Year
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share?
Post them here by emailing me.
An interesting
Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch. Now open.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Garden Day 2015, August 1, 2015, 8
a.m. - 4:15 p.m. Veterinary Medical Center / Plant & Soil Sciences Bldg.,
MSU campus, East Lansing, MI
This is
MSU’s horticulture departments annual garden seminar. The public is welcome. Key note speaker is
Rick Darke, a widely published author, photographer, lecturer and consultant
focused on regional landscape design, planning, conservation, and enhancement. You
get a choice of 2 other classes and a closing speaker also.
Cost is
$85.60 for non-2015 Garden members prior to July 24, $95.60 on and after July
25th this includes lunch but not the evening reception.
Please
visit www.hrt.msu.edu/garden-day-2015/ for a full schedule, workshop
descriptions and more. Contact:
Jennifer Sweet, CMP, CTA, at 517-355-5191 ext. 1339 or hgardens@msu.edu.
MSU Plant Trial Field Day, August 4,
2015, 8:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. 1066 Bogue Street, Plant & Soil Sciences Bldg.
(1st floor), East Lansing, MI 48824
Commercial
growers, landscapers and advanced gardeners are invited to this annual event to
learn about some of the superior new plants and how they perform in
mid-Michigan in the MSU Trial Gardens. Plant performance, ornamental
characters, and special needs of plants will be covered. We will also host presentations
on the most recent research on the development and spread of impatiens downy
mildew and up-to-date discussions on the evolving ethics of American gardeners.
For this important and timely topic, Entomologists and Horticultural Extension
Specialists will bring us up-to-date on the latest news in pollinators, native
insects, and pesticides such as neonicotinoids.
The
$42/person registration fee (by July 30) includes morning refreshments, lunch,
parking, trial booklet, and the program.
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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