Tuesday, April 14, 2015

April 14, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

April 14, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners

Spring is here.
I love spring.  April has been kind and gentle so far and I hope it stays so.  This weekend I was able to plant snow peas and two more batches of lettuce and some spinach.  I transplanted some roses that were lost in my biggest perennial bed and divided some daylilies.  I cleaned a fence of old morning glory and woody nightshade vines and vowed to control both plants much better this year.  And I did a lot of general clean up and garden musing, planning for this year’s garden season.  I hope you were able to get outside too.

The crocus and winter aconite are blooming beautifully and so are the iris reticulata.  I even have some daffodils blooming in a warm spot.  I can see color on the hyacinth buds.  The grass is greening up and our back yard will need mowing soon. Leaves are popping on some shrubs like the honeyberries.  The pussy willows and maples are blooming. 

The spring peepers are getting progressively louder and more frenzied in their singing and many other frogs are now joining in.  Birds are singing and fighting everywhere. The Canada geese and Sandhill cranes are making a racket each evening. I have seen some honeybees and bumblebees looking for spring flowers.  I hung out the hummingbird feeder even though I haven’t seen a hummer yet but it gives the bees something to eat.

Next it’s on to carrot and onion planting.  I may get some pansies to pop in for color too.  There’s so much to do but I’m not complaining one bit!

Revisiting the native vs non-native plant argument

People got very upset with my article last week, published here in the blog and on line at Examiner.com about not worrying so much about non-native plants.  I stand by my assertion that most non-native plants do not cause the extinction of native plants nor do they seriously harm wildlife in the vast majority of cases.  This is backed up by research studies done in many countries and by many agencies. 

What people should do is tailor their gardens to their specific site and climate so as to minimize environmental impact and make gardening easier and more successful for them at the same time. You can do that with both native and non-native plants. If you live in California and are experiencing extreme drought you shouldn’t be planting or trying to maintain a bluegrass lawn and hosta. But you may want to include bromeliads, sedums, succulents and other water sparing plants from around the world in your landscape.  In the Midwest we aren’t quite as concerned with conserving water but if you have a sandy soil and lots of sun for your garden site you’ll want to choose plants that tolerate dry conditions too.  If you have heavy clay soil and lots of shade there are plants, both native and non-native, that can grow well there.

If your garden suits your climate, soil type, light and drainage conditions, looks nice, and is pollinator and bird friendly don’t worry about having plant species that aren’t native in the mix.  You aren’t destroying the planet.  Even if some of the plant species are known to escape to the wild from time to time the chances that species gardeners would choose are harmful to the native environment is low.  What most gardeners want are plants that look nice but that are easy to care for and grow well in their conditions. If you choose those plants there is little chance you’ll harm the environment. Remember this-one man’s weed – or invasive plant- is another man’s flower.

If you really want to re-create the landscape that existed in your area before Europeans arrived you’ll want to use native plants- and native plants very specifically suited to your area, not just North America.  And you’ll have to carefully choose for soil, drainage and light conditions too. It won’t look like a garden of course.  But here’s the thing.  Your area will never be the same as before the Europeans arrived because the climate has changed, animal species and their population numbers have changed, pests have changed, and even the air composition has changed. 

The numbers of white tail deer in most Eastern US areas are drastically higher- up to 5 times higher- than they were before European settlement.  Deer prevent the re-establishment of many native species, such as trilliums.  If you want a pre-European vegetative state you need pre-European deer numbers. Are you willing to mount a massive deer hunt? The drainage of swampland, natural and man-made diversion of streams and rivers has changed the land over time. The land is not the same as it was pre-European and won’t be again. 

Climate change has happened, whether you believe it was from man or natural cycles of the sun.  Plant species change when the climate does.  Air pollution has changed what species can thrive in an area.  While man has been introducing new species of plants and animals to areas he travels to since the beginning of our history, nature also introduces novel species from time to time.  Wind blows seeds long distances, waves wash plants and seeds to new shores.  Birds fly great distances with seeds or plant bits stuck to them.  Change is constant in nature.

There are some exceptions to the non- natives are ok philosophy.  Giant Hogweed for example, may not hurt the environment but it does hurt people and animals, so let’s not get it growing here. If plants are banned by government agencies you probably should avoid planting them.  And some non-native plants can overrun the landscape and make you unhappy you planted them. But then again some native plants can make you very unhappy you planted them in the home landscape too.


Native plants you may not want to plant

Let’s enlarge on the idea that native plants aren’t always better.  Here are some plants that you might want to think twice about before you plant them in the garden.  Instead you may want to plant a better behaved non-native plant.  Of course with the right care, the plants listed here could be planted in the garden, but before you shop from that native plant catalog, take a minute to read this.

Bee Balm, Monarda, Wild bergamot ( Monarda spps.)
While pretty and attractive to bees and butterflies, Bee Balm can be an aggressive spreader, taking over vast areas of the garden, even popping up in unexpected places. It also has the tendency to get powdery mildew as summer progresses and look quite ratty in appearance. There are several native species of Monarda. There are many cultivated varieties of Bee Balm too, but most of them share the invasive nature.  The cultivated varieties are more disease resistant and prettier in the garden while being just as friendly to pollinators.  If you are willing to aggressively pull this species from unwanted areas its worth planting.

Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans)
Trumpet vine heading for the sky.
 This native vine is often sold to attract hummingbirds and it will do that.  However it will also spread everywhere and can climb trees, power poles and fences, often damaging them. It spreads by seed and also by underground runners that travel for long distances underground.  Left alone it can make impenetrable thickets of intertwined vines.  The dead vines look unsightly in winter.

Don’t expect this vine to quietly cover an arbor or small trellis.  Expect to prune it hard and often, and dig out and mow down new plants popping up in unexpected places.  Don’t plant it anywhere near a structure that could be damaged by the thick vines.

Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)
This is another native vine that is pretty with vivid red fall foliage and clusters of blue berries attractive to birds. It’s still sold in nursery catalogs as a native vine despite its extremely invasive nature.  Virginia creeper will sprawl through garden beds, completely covering them, cover trees and shrubs, even climb the sides of the house, covering it completely if left alone.  It spreads by seed and underground runners. 

Virginia Creeper
Like the trumpet vine you will need to aggressively prune this plant as well as root out plants popping up everywhere.  It can damage trees and shrubs if it grows heavily on them so keep it away from them.  Some people mistake Virginia Creeper for poison ivy but it has 5 leaves, not 3 and poison ivy berries are white.  Unfortunately Virginia Creeper may also make some people break out in a rash if its handled, even though it’s not as bad as poison ivy.

New England Asters, (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), woodland asters, white heath asters
 Native asters are often included in wildflower seed mixes and sold in native plant sales.  They are pretty with their clouds of small flowers of various colors in the fall and do provide some bee food.  However these native asters are also aggressive spreaders, by seed and underground stolens and can quickly turn a garden bed into a thick mat of tangled roots. The wiry stems are difficult to pull or mow.  Plant native asters with caution and thin aggressively yearly.  There are many cultivated species of native asters that will be better garden subjects.

Goldenrod (Solidago spps.)
 Goldenrod is a favorite of European gardeners and it can be pretty mixed into tall perennial borders. There are several native species. It’s great for late fall color and food for bees and butterflies when other flowers are scarce.  But like many natives goldenrod spreads aggressively and will rapidly take over the garden if not thinned each year and kept confined to its spot.  If you like it, grow it where you can easily control its spread.

Honey Locust (Gleditsia triacanthos,)
The delicate leaves of this tree and its spring flowers would suggest it makes a good landscape plant but many people don’t agree. The leaves constantly litter the ground and the seed pods make an even greater mess. The pods release seeds that birds and small animals like, but also spread everywhere and seedlings will pop up throughout the lawn and garden. Honey Locust has thorns that are quite dangerous and is prone to breaking in storms.  It’s better at the edge of woodlands or corners of the property than as a lawn tree.

Cattails (Typha latifolia)
Often sold as a native plant for water gardens, cattails are beneficial in nature, filtering pollution and providing food for many species of animals.  But they can quickly clog a small pond.  While the firm “seedheads” look great in flower arrangements, they don’t look so good when they are opening and dispersing the seed fluff, looking tattered and messy. The seeds released grow rapidly and quickly.  Don’t plant cattails in small ponds you want to swim or fish in.  Keep them cleared out of roadside ditches so they don’t impede water flow.  There are a number of species of cattails and a non-hardy, non-native species may be more suitable for small water features in the garden and it isn’t likely to become invasive.

Jimson weed (Datura stramonium,)
This plant has large pretty white, sometimes lavender, flowers and gardeners often want it, but it’s extremely poisonous to pets, livestock and people. Common names are moonflower, (not to be confused with the vine Moonflower) angels trumpet or devil’s trumpet which is more appropriate. This plant is a hallucinogenic, but should not be experimented with because even a tiny overdose can be deadly. It’s said even smelling the flowers can make people sick. The prickly seed pods distribute dozens of seeds everywhere. Once in the garden it will spread aggressively, seeds will remain dormant in the soil for years.  Don’t plant Jimsonweed unless it is protected from children and pets and you cut off each flower before it goes to seed.

American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens)and Kentucky wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya)
American wisteria is often sold as preferable to Chinese wisteria, although there is little difference in looks or habit.  It is a vine with dangling clusters of blue or white flowers in early summer. It can also grow as a small tree.  It’s very pretty but comes with a price.  Wisteria spreads aggressively by shooting its seeds out of the pods. The seeds are like small cannon balls and have been known to hurt if they hit you.  It will spread by underground runners too.  The vines will destroy structures and damage trees that they climb.  In the garden it needs to have a very sturdy support and needs to be kept away from trees and power poles.  You’ll also have to look for and root out seedlings.  

Unlike Chinese wisteria, which can be heavily scented, Kentucky wisteria has a light scent, and American wisteria has no scent. The flowers of the native wisterias are smaller and less abundant.  Wisteria doesn’t always bloom, and if you get a non-blooming plant it can be difficult to get rid of it.

Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis)
Jewelweed
Jewelweed is a pretty native with small, dangling orange and gold flowers that bees and hummingbirds love.  It’s a member of the impatiens family and has fleshy, knotted stems, up to 3 feet high. It grows well in damp, semi-shaded areas or wet, full sun areas.  It’s an annual but once it gets established in the garden it will spread intensively by seed, which the pods shoot out some distance from the plant. It will carpet the ground with seedlings and turn into a thick, messy thicket if allowed.  If you like this plant keep it weeded down to a few plants each spring. Jewelweed crushed and rubbed on the skin is said to heal poison ivy rash.

Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana)
This native plant can look impressive in the garden with its tall sturdy stems, white flowers and loads of purple-black berries that birds love.  People eat the newly emerged shoots as salad greens but beware most other parts of the plant including the berries are poisonous.  Pokeweed shouldn’t be grown in gardens with children or pets or around livestock.  And because birds love those berries so much- they don’t harm them- you’ll soon have pokeweed growing everywhere.

Wild grapes (Vitis riparia)
Wild Grapes
 Wild grapes are seldom deliberately planted in gardens except by some of the most native-crazy plant lovers who are seeking to attract wildlife.  Wild grapes will take over and smother trees and cover large areas of ground in messy masses of undergrowth.  Because birds do love the fruit you may end up with wild grapes whether you plant them or not.  And grapes spread by runners underground as well as by seed.  If wild grapes get into the garden do your best to grub them out or you will regret it. They are fine in wild areas but they don’t belong in the garden.

Elderberries (Sambucus Canadensis)
 There are native and non-native varieties of elderberries.  Native elderberries make large, many stemmed bushes.  The bee friendly, flat white flowers in early summer look and smell good and are edible.  The flowers turn into attractive clusters of dark purple berries.  The berries are made into wine and pies but the berries should not be eaten raw as they are poisonous. All other plant parts are poisonous too. Use caution planting them around pets, children and livestock.

Elderberries take up a lot of space; they can get 15 feet wide and high, and tend to turn into messy thickets.  They spread quickly through seeds.  There are ornamental elderberries that are better mannered and less invasive you can plant if you want elderberries in the landscape.

Red Mulberry (Morus rubra)
 This native mulberry is sometime sold in wildlife tree assortments.  Other types of mulberries are not native but may be naturalized throughout the US.  The red mulberry is a small tree with inconspicuous flowers but large amounts of red-purple fruit in mid-summer that looks like a blackberry or raspberry.  As a wildlife attractor it works quite wonderfully- but that’s why you probably won’t want it close to your house.  Birds will swarm to the trees and drop their purple poop like rain all over patios, cars, and clothes on the line and the poop stains what it touches.  If the tree is having an abundant crop year the berries may also litter the lawn or deck.  You will also have an abundance of little mulberries coming up in the lawn and flowerbeds.  If you plant this tree keep it well away from the house.  Mulberry fruit is edible and can be made into wine, pies and jam.

Bracken Fern (Pteridium)
 Bracken ferns are native in temperate and sub-tropical areas almost
Bracken Fern
everywhere in the world. They are some of the oldest and most successful of land plants. They are large, coarse looking ferns that quickly colonize any disturbed areas with poor soil. They spread by spores and by “runners”.
  Some plants can grow with bracken ferns but many plants grow poorly or are killed by chemicals the ferns release into the soil.  The plants are very poisonous to livestock and pets.  People sometimes eat the fronds as they emerge, called fiddleheads.  However research has indicated that the ferns can cause cancer when consumed.  There are far better ferns than Bracket ferns for the landscape.

Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)
 This is another fern that is found in many countries.  It is a better subject for gardens than bracken fern with some reservations.  It is very large, up to 6 feet high in some situations.  While it is beautiful when in its prime, hot dry summers will make the fronds dry and die back, leaving a lot of empty space and a mess to clean up. Its other drawback is that it is very invasive and will take up large areas of the garden quickly. The plants are hard to dig out once established.  It will grow in part shade or full sun if the area is always wet. 

Rare tortoises thrive on non-native plants

To prove that wildlife aren’t always harmed by introduction of non-native plants and may actually benefit from them you have only to look at the story of the rare Galapagos tortoises.  On islands where there have been no real human habitation and few introduced plants the turtles are disappearing.  But on islands where people have brought agricultural pursuits and introduced many non-native plants the tortoises are doing well.

Scientists put GPS tags on the tortoises and followed them around recording every type of plant they ate for four years. They also analyzed tortoise dung piles for undigested seeds and plant parts. They found that the tortoises preferred many non-native plants over native ones and that their diet consisted of at least half non-native plants when they were available.  The tortoises that ate a lot of non-native plants were healthier overall than other tortoises which had little access to non-native plants and populations on islands with many introduced plant species were stable or increasing. The research was published in the March issue of Biotropica.

Surprise- the world is getting greener

With all this talk about planting native plants to help the environment it may surprise you to know that over the last 20 years the world has actually gained vegetative mass- more growth of trees and vegetation other than food crops.  Satellite data analyzed by an international group of scientists found that we are still losing forest cover and other vegetation in the Amazon and Indonesia but that there have actually been significant increases in vegetation in China, southern African and northern Australia.

The researchers say that a massive re-forestation project over the last ten years in China is paying off.  The increase of vegetation in the savannas of Africa and Australia comes from climate change producing wetter conditions with more CO2 in the atmosphere to increase plant growth.  The research was published in the journal Nature Climate Change.

Men- wash those veggies and fruits- or lose your fertility

It’s healthy to eat lots of fruits and veggies but men who eat lots of non-organic produce are more likely to have a low sperm count or reduced motility of sperm. This leads to lower levels of fertility. Pesticide residues on the fruits and vegetables are thought to be responsible for the lowered fertility. 

Research done at Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health in Boston found that a group of men who ate lots of fruits and veggies that were not raised organically had significantly lower sperm quality than a group of similar men who ate the same amounts of organic fruits and vegetables.  The non-organic produce was sampled and found to generally have higher levels of pesticide residue than the organic.


It must be noted that the study was done on men who were already attending a fertility clinic in the hopes of achieving conception with a partner.  However researchers believe that pesticide residue may be contributing to a generally lower fertility rate in the last few generations.  They suggest that people who are trying to conceive a child eat organic produce or thoroughly wash other produce.

This week’s super food news, pomegranates, dates and cheese?

Every week some new superfood that will create a healthier you if you just eat it is announced.  This week researchers suggest you consume a half glass of pomegranate juice, eat a handful of dates, and have some cheese every day.

Research published in the March 26, 2015 edition of Food & Function, a journal of The Royal Society of Chemistry, found that pomegranate juice and dates helped people attain maximum protection against hardening of the arteries if consumed daily.

And research published in ACS' Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry found that cheese consumption caused high levels of a chemical compound called butyrate in feces, which means that the gut microbes are processing cholesterol in high fat foods correctly.  People who have this level of butyrate have better cardio-vascular health and lower body weight.

So add pomegranate juice, dates and cheese to your diet along with all the other super foods. 

How to Grow Light and Lively Lemon Balm

Lemon Balm is another herb that anyone can grow in the garden.  With its lovely lemony flavor it complements many dishes.  It has many medicinal uses and is currently being studied for use in suppressing tumors, and in HIV, Herpes, and Alzheimer’s treatment.  Lemon Balm is so easy to grow that many people consider it invasive.

Lemon Balm, Melissa officinalis, is a member of the mint family. Several species are native to Europe.  It will happily grow anywhere in zone 3-9 and is commercially grown in many areas.  

The plant has square stems like most mints; the leaves are dark green, broadly oval with toothed edges.  Lemon balm grows to about 2 foot tall when it is in a spot it likes.   In midsummer Lemon Balm begins blooming, with small spikes of pale yellow flowers arising from where the leaf joins the stem.  The flowers are tiny but are loved by bees which flock to the plants.

The Lemon Balm plant is not very attractive as garden plants go, but it does have that delightful aroma of lemon when the leaves are handled.  It spreads quickly through the garden by seed and by runners and you will soon have many plants to share with friends.  It can be considered to be invasive in spots it likes.

Growing and Harvesting Lemon Balm

Most gardeners will start with Lemon Balm plants; anyone who has the plant should be able to give you a seedling in the spring.  They are perennial, dying back to the ground each winter.  Large clumps of Lemon Balm can also be divided.

Lemon Balm prefers full sun although it will tolerate partial shade. It will grow in almost any soil. For the best plants a well-drained, moderately rich soil in full sun, and water when conditions are very dry is preferred. No fertilizer is needed.  After frost has killed the foliage cut off the stems to the ground.

The leaves of Lemon Balm can be harvested at any time. Most of the active ingredients are found in the leaves, although flowers are also good as a dried herb.  The flowers are edible. Simply remove the leaves needed from the plant or if you have an abundance of plants you can pull whole plants. Leaves and flowers can be used fresh or dried.

Using Lemon Balm

The active ingredients in Lemon Balm include terpenes, tannins and eugenol. In traditional herbal medicine Lemon Balm was usually a complementary addition to other herbs. The lemony flavor helped make other herbal medications easy to take.  Lemon Balm is mildly sedative and helps decrease anxiety and aid sleep.  It is used to aid in gas and colic relief. Lemon Balm leaves were also crushed and warmed to use as a poultice on wounds.

A current popular use is a lotion or cream containing Lemon Balm that is used on cold sores and other Herpes sores.   Cooled Lemon Balm tea can also be used on sores.  It does not control pain but speeds healing.  Much research is being focused on the anti-viral properties of Lemon Balm in Herpes and HIV treatment.

Other research is focusing on Lemon Balms ability to aid memory and restore some cognitive function in Alzheimer’s patients.  Some research suggests that Lemon Balm may destroy certain tumors. Lemon Balm is a mosquito repellant when rubbed on the skin.  It is also used in potpourri. 

Lemon Balm has many culinary uses, wherever lemon flavor is required in cooking it can be substituted for lemon. The essential oils from the plant are used in a wide variety of things from perfume and cosmetics to furniture polish.

To make a tea with Lemon Balm use about a cup of fresh crushed leaves to a pint of boiling water and steep.  Use about a teaspoon of dried herb to a cup of boiling water.  Strain and sweeten if desired.  Adult dosage of tea should be limited to about 4 cups per day, children about a cup. Lemon Balm is available in the market place as dried herb, extract, essential oil, capsules and lotions.  Follow dosage directions on the labels.

An old recipe for using Lemon Balm as a cooling drink includes a bottle of claret wine, a couple cups of crushed lemon balm leaves, a sliced orange, a half of a sliced, peeled  cucumber, and a half cup of sugar.  All ingredients are mixed together and allowed to steep for a day in a cool place, then the liquid is strained and poured over ice.

Warning

Before using Lemon Balm preparations on the skin test a small area of skin for allergies. Pregnant and nursing women should consult with a doctor before using Lemon Balm.  Some medications may interact with Lemon Balm, in particular thyroid medications, and if you are on medications you should consult with

Time to get off this computer and outside

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero



Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

A new herb group is forming!  The Lapeer Herb Circle will meet the 2nd Wednesday of the month at Rebekah’s Health and Nutrition Store, 6 pm. at  588 S. Main, Lapeer ( next to Office Depot).  They also have a facebook page you can join.

Attention Beekeepers!!! We are looking for individuals to participate with a state-wide apiary registry. We are currently developing the website/database for this project and we are looking for beekeepers who will come in on the ground floor of this project and help us get it launched. Not asking for any money, only your time and/or input. Please send us an e-mail if you are interested in helping the bees or want to know more.

In specific, we are looking for people with beekeeping experience to be board members for the organization, inspectors for different areas around Michigan and volunteers to help us get the word out at different clubs, festivals, etc. Please consider helping us and the bees too! Visit our website and let us know if you can help! www.MichiganApiaryRegistry.org

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch.  Now open.

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link top events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Spring Pond Cleaning and Start-Up April 18, 10-11am, The Pond Place, 3505 W Highland Rd.,  Milford MI.

FREE. Clean-up options, dividing water plants, water treatment & fish health. Register: www.PondPlace.com. (248)889-8400


Pollinator Gardens and Native Plantings,  April 11, 2015, 10:00 am –noon-  County Farm Field Operations Building 2210 Platt Rd., Ann Arbor right next to the red playground.

This new course will explore developing pollinator gardens and native plantings.

Strong fruit and vegetable production often depends on the tiniest of garden visitors – native bees and honey bees.  Learn how to design a beautiful garden that will boost your crop production, attract beneficial insects, and support native biodiversity. This course is taught by Washtenaw County Naturalist Shawn Severance.

**New for 2015**  $5/class fee for all classes to discourage no-shows;   registration is required.  Call (734) 996-3169. Walk-ins are welcome.

ReLeaf Michigan is having its annual tree sale, order online and pick up at several locations around Michigan.  http://releafmichigan.blogspot.com/p/tree-and-shrub-fundraiser-sale.html  Check out the unusual selection of trees and shrubs.

ReLeaf Michigan's annual tree and shrub sale helps to reverse Michigan's loss of tens of thousands of trees due to the emerald ash borer, storms, and old age.  Our tree sale is a fundraiser that also encourages the public to plant trees to improve the overall tree canopy of their community. Purchasing and planting our trees and shrubs offer environmental benefits that also provide ReLeaf Michigan with much-needed revenue to support our ongoing tree planting and educational programs.  Thanks for your support!

Spring Into Gardening Conference, Saturday, April 25, 2015, 9:00am to 4:00 pm, Mt. Pleasant, MI

A day-long Master Garden Conference held in Mount Pleasant, Michigan at the Comfort Inn and Suites.  Sponsored by the Master Gardener Association of Isabella County.  This conference is for the beginner to advanced gardeners who love to learn about gardening.  Please invite a friend to come along for a fun filled day! Public welcome-Not restricted to MG

Speakers:
Barb Balgoyen, topic - Perennials
Jason Erickson, topic - Water Features
Chuck Martin, topic - Divine use of Vines
Mary K. Hausbeck, topic - research on diseases of ornamentals, herbs and vegetables
Requires pre-registration. $60.00 cost includes - Four Speakers, Lunch, Vendors and door prizes
Phone:  (989) 400 – 1391 contact email:  b.laughlin@cmich.edu

Behind the Scenes at Hidden Lake Gardens- Thu, April 16, 2015, 6:30pm Hidden Lake Gardens,6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

April’s topic: Harper Collection
Explore behind the scenes with HLG’s Managing Director, Paul Pfeifer. This is an opportunity to enjoy a behind-the-scenes perspective on different areas of HLG’s collections. Bring your questions and learn a few tips and secrets.

Cost: $5 per person / free for Friends of HLG
Registration is required. Approximate class length is 90 minutes. www.hiddenlakegardens.msu.edu.
 
The MSU Hort Club 2015 Spring Show and Plant Sale Saturday April 18th 2014, 9am-6pm and Sunday April 19th 2014, 10am- 4pm located in the head house of the Plant and Soil Sciences Building (PSS) at Michigan State University, 1600 Bogue St, East Lansing (located on the corner of Wilson and Bogue.)

No information is given about what the show entails or whether there is a fee to enter but if you want to see the list of plants they are selling you can go here.

There is parking in the 4H Children’s garden parking lot just south of the PSS bldg, in the vet med lot across Bogue and the Horticulture Department lot to the west of PSS. (*Note: locations are marked on the map with 'Parking') Be sure to read parking signs as parking tickets are common on MSU's campus. Please enter through either the south door of the head house or through the greenhouses.

MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring Program: Can You Dig It?, May 2, 2015 8 a.m. - 4 p.m., Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue Street, East Lansing, MI
Sessions include: Woodland wonders from the wild, Art of Gardening, Joy of Propagation, Cultivating the recipe garden, lunch from Grand Traverse Pie Company included.  Rare plant sales.  Early registration (on or before April 21) for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $69 Early registration (on or before April 21) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $79 Registrations received after April 21 $89
Contact: 517-353-0443, hgardens@msu.edu.

Gardening and All That Jazz – Innovation and Sustainability For Your Garden, Saturday, April 25, 2015 – 7 am – 4:15 pm, Oakland Schools Conference Center 2111 Pontiac Lake Road, Waterford

Sessions include: Will Allen – Growing Power and the Good Food Revolution: A visual story of how Growing Power came to be and of Will Allen’s personal journey, the lives he has touched, and a grassroots movement that is changing the way our nation eats., Will Allen – How To Put “Growing Power” in Your Backyard: How to make your own compost bin, outdoor and indoor worm bins and raised beds. Matthew Benson – Growing Beautiful Food: Cultivating the Incredible, Edible Garden - Kerry Ann Mendez – Gardening Simpli­fied for Changing Lifestyle: Exceptional Plants and Design Solutions for Aging and Time-pressed Gardeners

Lunch and snacks included in cost.  Garden marketplace and jazz musicians. Early Bloomers Registration Fee: $70 After March 14, 2015 Fee: $80 Registration at the door is not available. Registration Deadline: Wednesday, April 20, 2015  Registr by going to http://www.mgsoc.org/2015Conference_registration.pdf   For more info:  Nancy Strodl, Phone: 248-552-5095, E-mail: nancy_strodl@comcast.net

MSU offered a variety of on line seminars for those who were interested in beginning farming topics of various types.  Some of those are now available free to watch at the address below.  Gardeners may be interested in topics like organic pest controlGet the list of topics and links here.


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