July 2, 2013
- Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter
From Kim Willis
These weekly garden notes are
written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions
expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other
individual, group or organizations opinions.
Hello Gardeners
Hollyhocks and ladybells |
A gloomy day has turned pretty and I am anxious to get out
there and do some weeding. This week’s
newsletter will be a little lighter than last weeks as I want to tidy up the
garden and house in preparation for visitors over the holidays. There’s a chance of rain over the next few
days so I need to take advantage of the sun when I can.
I had 2 1/4 inches of rain in about an hour last
Thursday. That was the only substantial
rain we had in the last week but it was enough.
I know some of you had several more days of rain showers. The rain has been very spotty across the
region.
The wheat is starting to ripen, the fields are turning
golden. Second cutting of hay has been
made in many areas. The catalpa and
elderberries are in bloom, showy and tuberose milkweed, heliopsis, hosta,
daylilies, dayflowers, evening primrose, hollyhocks, ladybells, and larkspur are blooming as are many other garden
plants.
Cabbage moths, those pretty white “butterflies” are out and
about laying eggs on your cabbage and broccoli, you may want to scout for and
remove the eggs or cover plants with netting.
Squash vine borers are also out.
Some people are seeing potato bugs and rose chafers ( more info below) are doing their damage a little later this
year. I haven’t seen any Japanese beetles
yet but I suspect they may be out soon.
West Nile Virus
At the beginning of July cases of WNV usually begin showing
up in Michigan. A wild turkey tested positive for West Nile Virus in Gratiot County
and several tests of mosquitoes in Saginaw County this month have confirmed
that West Nile Virus is again present in Michigan. In 2012 there were 201 human cases of WNV. Gardeners are at particular risk because we
spend more time outdoors and we often work in the evenings and early mornings
in “weedy” areas. Just one bite from an
infected mosquito can result in a disease that could result in death or life
changing illness. People over 50 are
more likely to have a severe form of West Nile Virus. People die every year in Michigan from the
virus.
West Nile Virus is transmitted by the bite of an infected
mosquito. The mosquito has to have fed
on an infected bird before feeding on you.
Normally people do not get WNV from other animals, although handling
birds that died from WNV carries a slight risk. Getting a blood donation can also give you the
disease, 38 cases of WNV in Michigan were found by screening blood donations in
2012. WNV is a neurological disease,
causing paralysis, seizures, and brain damage in severe cases, but many people
just have flu like symptoms of fever, headache, aches and pains. Recovering from the disease gives you
immunity for some time to the disease.
Horses can get very sick or die from WNV but there is a
vaccine for horses to prevent the disease.
Other animals get the disease but seldom get very sick from it. Crows and other birds in the Corvid family
such as Blue Jays are more likely to die from WNV than other common birds. Some counties test dead birds for the
disease.
There is no vaccine for humans and no cure for WNV so
preventing mosquito bites is the best way to stay WNV free. Always wear mosquito repellant when working
outside, even in the sun. There is some
concern that new mosquito varieties ( to Michigan) that are active in the daytime could increase
the risk of people getting WNV. Wearing
light colored clothing, long sleeves, pants and socks also helps. Keep water dumped out of trash, tires, flower
pot saucers, and other things because mosquitoes can breed in small amounts of
water. Empty pet dishes and wading pools
frequently. Clean clogged gutters. Treat ponds and other standing water with a BT
product, which is a natural biological product that does little harm to the
environment while killing mosquito larvae.
Make sure windows and doors have good screens.
Living in the city actually puts you at more risk of
contracting WNV. 85% of the WNV cases
last year occurred in the Detroit and Grand Rapids area. Oakland and Macomb counties also had high
rates of WNV. There were 15 deaths last
year from the virus. There are at least
3 other viruses with serious consequences that can be transmitted by mosquito
bites. Take West Nile Virus seriously
and protect yourself from mosquito bites.
Farm market scams
You may have gotten a tomato or two from your garden, I know
I have, but if you go to the farmers market and see a big display of large ripe
tomatoes be very cautious with your purchase.
Some local producers using hoop houses may be marketing cherry tomatoes
or even small amounts of larger tomatoes that they grew but most of the people
who display large amounts of big ripe tomatoes this time of the year are buying
them at the Eastern Market for resale.
As long as you know that it may be fine, but if you don’t want to buy
tomatoes from Florida or Mexico it’s not fair to be told they are locally
grown. They won’t taste as good either,
and are probably full of pesticides.
Talk to the person who you buy your produce from, ask
questions like what variety is this and if they use a hoop house or green house
to produce the tomatoes. Ask when the
crop was picked. You don’t want to penalize legitimate growers who were lucky
enough to have an early crop, but be very skeptical of the seller who has the
only large quantity of that type of common produce on sale. If that seller also has other items that aren’t
in season yet such as sweet corn, peaches, melons etc. there’s a good chance he or she is reselling
items purchased from the Eastern Market or other out of state produce
wholesalers. There is one vendor at the
Lapeer Farmers market who is known for this and its very common at larger
farmers markets.
Bee and beebalm |
If you take the time to go to a farmers market, you probably
want locally grown seasonal produce. It
helps to know what is ripe and available in your area at the time you are
shopping. Right now in Southeast
Michigan through the thumb area these items should be at the farmers market
from local growers; salad greens, radishes, beets, green onions, peas, cherries,(
beginning) strawberries(almost done).
You may see a few locally grown cherry or early slicing tomatoes and
small cucumbers. In the far southern regions
of Michigan raspberries are just beginning to ripen and some apricots are
available.
What isn’t being grown locally and ripening now is sweet
corn and melons. These are popular 4th
of July picnic items but you may as well buy them at the supermarket as at the
farmers market because they probably came from the same places.
As far as organic produce goes, you have to trust the person
selling the produce. It probably won’t
look as perfect as non- organic produce but that’s a hard distinction to make
in some cases. Getting to know the
seller is your best bet.
Best trees to attract
birds
An article in Audubon Magazine this month says the best trees
to plant for attracting birds are willows, oaks, plums and cherries. Birds
enjoy caterpillars, worms and bugs, especially when feeding youngsters and oaks
and willows attract lots of those pests.
The fruit trees provide those items as well as a juicy dessert. Any trees or shrubs that provide berries are
also great for birds. Of course you won’t
be treating those trees for their pests or their value as bird feeders will be
lost.
Canary seed flour
Speaking of feeding birds, researchers in Canada are
developing a strain of canary seed that is turned into flour much like wheat.
The new canary seed lacks the tiny hairs that keep conventional canary seed
from being used as food for humans.
Canary seed is higher in protein than most other grains and best of all
its gluten free. The new canary seed can
be grown and harvested with conventional farm machinery and used in place of
wheat flour in most recipes. Canary seed
can be grown wherever wheat can be grown.
Rose chafer beetle
Rose Chafer beetles generally begin emerging about the time
grapes flower. This year they are a
little later than usual, with populations just coming to peak about now. If you live on sandy soil your garden may be
particularly hard hit. The name rose
chafer is misleading. While they are
very attracted to rose flowers, they’ll eat the leaves and flowers on many
kinds of plants.
Rose chafer beetles are tan, sometimes with a greenish cast,
with reddish orange legs and short antennae.
They are about a 1/2 inch long when mature and are strong fliers. In June they emerge from the soil where
they have been pupating and begin feeding on everything in sight. Plants are sometimes covered with the
beetles.
Damage to plants is mainly cosmetic; the plants do recover
when the beetles stop feeding and die, near the end of June. But the loss of flowers and the sight of
leaves with only the veins remaining make many gardeners ready to fight. In June lots of chewed up leaves and flowers
may mean a rose chafer invasion is taking place.
For those who grow grapes, rose chafers mean more than
cosmetic damage. Grapes are generally
blooming at the time the rose chafer emerges and the hungry beetles love to eat
grape flowers and buds, which means the loss of the grape crop.
The life cycle of the rose chafer begins when adult beetles
lay eggs in sandy soil in June. Tiny
grubs soon hatch and burrow deeper into the soil. Unlike the European chafer beetle grub the
rose chafer grub does not damage turf grass roots. It grows all summer, and then goes deep into
the soil to rest for winter. In the
spring grubs move toward the surface, eat for a short time then turn into pupae
for a couple of weeks, before emerging from the soil in June to start the cycle
over.
Since female rose chafer beetles prefer to lay eggs in sandy
soil, higher numbers of the beetles are found in gardens planted on sandy
soil. But the beetles can fly quite a
distance to feed.
To control rose chafers gardeners can hand pick the beetles,
dropping them into a container of soapy water.
Shaking a plant lightly will often dislodge dozens of the beetles. On sturdy plants a hand vacuum can be used with
the dirt cup full of beetles emptied into soapy water.
Common garden insecticides such as Sevin and malathion will
kill the beetles. But insecticides will
need to be re-applied after each heavy rain and every 10-14 days. Systemic insecticides, like those found in
rose care products, will work but the beetle has to take a bite of the plant
before it is poisoned, so some damage continues to occur.
Whenever using a pesticide, read and follow the label
directions for mixing and applying the product exactly. Make sure the plants you want to protect and
the insects you want to kill are listed on the label. Different insects or different plants can
have different application and mixing instructions.
Plants could be covered with row cover material while the
beetles are heavy. It must be securely
anchored to the ground so beetles don’t crawl under it. Grapes though, need to have visits from
pollinators to make fruit so a row cover won’t work. Pesticides may also kill some pollinators but
are the best option for grapes if beetle numbers are high.
Some early studies by the USDA have found that spraying the
kaolin clay based product called Surround® on grape vines helped repel rose
chafer beetles. That product could also
be sprayed on trees and shrubs being eaten by rose chafers but be aware that it
gives sprayed plants a whitewashed appearance.
There is a lure scent that has been developed for rose
chafers that can be used in Japanese beetle traps. If you use a product like this put it far
away from the plants you want to protect.
Otherwise it will draw more rose chafers to the area which may feed on
plants before entering the trap.
One thing you do not want to do is to encourage your
chickens or other birds to eat the beetles.
Rose chafer beetles contain a toxin that can sicken or kill birds and
small animals. That’s why they are so abundant and damaging; they are not eaten
by other wild things.
I hope everyone has a great 4th of July holiday.
Kim
Garden as though you will live forever. William Kent
More Information
This article by
Kimberley Willis was originally published at Examiner.com
Evening Primrose
There are several species of evening primroses, (Oenothera),
that are native to North America and they are often listed in wildflower
books. But in southeast Michigan the
evening primrose tribe is most likely to be found in gardens and so it will be listed here as a garden
plant. Most Michigan gardeners can grow
the evening primroses; they are hardy to at least zone 4. Domesticated evening primroses bloom over a
long period and are very easy to grow.
They are often used as filler in perennial beds.
The name evening primrose is confusing, as common names can
be, because Oenothera are not related to the true primrose family and many
species stay open in the daytime as well.
Oenothera missouriensis is commonly called Sundrops or Missouri
primrose. It is a compact plant with 5
inch yellow flowers that stay open during the day. The other evening primrose commonly found in
Michigan gardens is the Showy evening primrose or Oenothera speciosa, which
gets about 30 inches tall with pretty light pink flowers.
Two other varieties of evening primrose may turn up in
gardens. The common evening primrose, Oenothera biennis, which is a rangy plant
that can get up to 5 feet high in good conditions, has small yellow flowers
that do open in the evening. The
prairie evening primrose, Oenothera albicaulis, has white flowers.
The cutleaf evening primrose, ( Oenothera laciniata), is a
weed of nursery pots and sometimes in fields.
It forms a rosette of lobed, deeply cut leaves with a prominent white
vein. It blooms close to the ground with
yellow or reddish small flowers and is not a suitable garden subject.
The leaves of most evening primrose are narrow and
blade-like with a toothed edge. Stems
are reddish, with small hairs. Plants may branch near the top. Plants grow higher
through the summer, putting out new clusters of flowers.
Evening primrose flowers open in clusters at the top of the
plant. Each flower has 4 petals and a
slightly glossy look. The showy evening
primrose has darker pink veins on the light pink flowers. Flowers are lightly
fragrant. The flower size ranges from 1-5 inches wide.
Care of evening
primroses
Primroses thrive in dry sunny, places but will also grow in
partial shade. They will grow even in poor soil, but it must be well
drained. Gardeners will generally buy
plants but evening primroses can be started from seed. Seed actually germinates
quite well outside, sow it in midsummer and it will bloom the second year. They
are bi-annual or short lived perennials but will spread generously for you by seed. Many gardeners get their evening primrose
plants from other gardeners who need to thin them out after a few years.
Evening primrose |
Evening primroses are easy garden plants; they don’t require
fertilization in all but the poorest soils and have few pests and diseases. Taken alone they don’t make much of a
statement in the border; they should be planted in generous groups. Showy evening primrose in particular makes
quite a show when planted in large drifts. If they are in a spot they like
evening primroses will bloom for much of the summer.
Occasionally the prolific evening primroses will be found
where they have escaped the garden, usually in dry, sunny meadows. In Michigan wild primroses are generally the
yellow common evening primrose. They are
sometimes included in wildflower seed mixes.
Herbal use
Native American women chewed the seeds of common evening
primrose for menstrual pain, PMS symptoms and other “woman” problems. The seeds
are sometimes ground for herbal remedies.
In recent years the extracted oil of evening primrose seeds is being
studied for a whole slew of reasons, pain relief and heart health are a few,
and it is used in cosmetics for its supposed anti-aging properties.
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