Tuesday, July 16, 2019

July 16, 2019 lily dazed


Hi Gardeners
Asiatic and tiger lilies

It’s a steamy day here.  A lot of plants love the heat and humidity, but this gardener isn’t fond of these conditions.  I try to work in the late evenings in the garden now. I am actually hoping for some rain this afternoon, both to cool it down and to water all the plants.

The catalpa is dropping all it’s pretty white blooms now.  I don’t mind them on the lawn, the first mow takes care of that problem.  But I do not like them dropping their flowers on the hosta leaves.  The flowers catch in the “cup” of the leaves and turn into a soggy brown clump.  I have to go around with the hose and wash them out.

The lilies and daylilies are at their peak right now, the ones the deer left.  I had some beautiful white Asiatic lilies on the east side of the driveway and Sunday night the deer came up and ate half of them.  That was half of the half they left after the first raid.  I wrote more about lilies below.

Besides lilies, the cardinal flowers, beebalm, rocket ligularia, astilbe, and hosta are blooming.  My dahlias are beginning to bloom.  Both jasmines and my lemon tree are in bloom, as well as my pomegranate and peace lily.  All of my clematis except the sweet autumn are in bloom. The golden glow (Rudbeckia laciniata var. hortensia)- which is easily 8 feet tall this year, is beginning to bloom.  I staked it early this time, to see if I can keep it from falling over. These usually attract the Japanese beetles, but I have only seen a few of them this year. 

Golden glow is pretty in bloom when it doesn’t fall over.  But as tall as it is this year the flowers won’t really show well.  I’m going to have to decide if I want to keep it in the garden, I think.  It takes up a lot of space and is really out of proportion where it is.

I had the opportunity to go to the 16th annual garden tea at Suncrest, Lapeer County Master Gardeners Display garden, thanks to a friend.  It’s a fund raiser for the garden and it’s sold out months in advance every year. It’s a beautiful event and the weather this year was perfect for it.  For any of you readers who are part of the tea production and/or caring for the garden, you are doing great work, everything was beautiful.

The garden is behind the Lapeer County Medical Care Facility on Suncrest Drive in Lapeer.  It’s handicapped accessible for the residents there. It’s also open to the public every day in season during daylight hours, free. It’s an amazing garden with lots to look at and get inspiration from.
Garden at Suncrest

Tomato blossom end rot quick note

If you have black soft areas on the bottom of your tomatoes this year you are not alone.  The heavy rains this year have made the problem widespread.  Blossom end rot is not caused by a calcium deficiency according to the latest research.  Instead it’s caused by fluctuating soil moisture.  You may still see the cause of blossom end rot listed as a calcium deficiency on some professional sites that haven’t been updated but experts pretty much agree now that adding calcium to soil won’t help the problem.

Common cures suggested in many places tell you to use tums, eggshells and other items to increase the calcium level in soil.  First these items don’t increase calcium in soil by much, especially eggshells, which take years to release calcium.  And second, they don’t work to prevent blossom end rot.   The only cure for blossom end rot is an improvement in keeping soil moisture consistent.  It often corrects itself when the weather improves. You can buy varieties of tomatoes that are resistant to it.  You can eat tomatoes with blossom end rot, just cut out the bad area.

Epsom salt has absolutely no calcium in it and nothing else to help blossom end rot.  It may actually make the problem worse by harming plant roots.  Do not use Epsom salt on tomatoes.
Blossom end rot
CANR-MSU

A book review

Gardenlust: A Botanical Tour of the World's Best New Gardens  
by Christopher Woods.  Published September 2018.

If you like looking at other people’s gardens, you’ll like this book.  There are pictures of fifty gardens from around the world with brief descriptions of the gardens and the owners.  Some are private gardens and others public, but all are very beautiful.  These are all fairly new gardens, ones you may not have heard about or seen pictures of before.

I did lust after these gardens, at least some of them.  There were a couple that seemed to be mostly weird art with few plants I don’t particularly like the looks of.  But most were beautiful and made me want to move somewhere where I could expand my plant selection, although there were lots of temperate area gardens too. It’s amazing how gardeners in other parts of the world have a slightly different, yet somehow familiar take, on what makes a great garden.

I’ve been back through the book a few times to examine some of the gardens more closely.  There are lots of ideas you can use to change things up in your own garden.  And you can dream about having the money to do some of the bigger more elaborate garden ideas presented here.  There’s no advice on gardening in this book, just a presentation of the gardens and some of the back stories on them.  The writing is enjoyable and not technical.

The author Christopher Woods has worked in the Royal Botanical garden, Kew, Britain and he was director and chief designer of Chanticleer, a wonderful garden here in Pennsylvania, USA.  He travels the world looking for inspiration and garden innovation and, in the book, he shows some of his finds.  I wish I was younger, my knees better and I was rich, so I could tour gardens like this.

The book has beautiful color photos.  If you have a tablet which supports digital books you can get the book in digital format, which is about half the price of the hardcover edition.  I got a digital edition for my Kindle Fire.  You can read this on any device by downloading a free app., if you buy from Amazon. But a PC or larger tablet would be best to look at the photos. (By the way, digital books are a great way to get garden books at very reasonable prices.)  If you collect garden books this would make a great addition in hardcover.

Identifying the lilies

The true lilies make excellent garden plants.  Many people are quite confused about lily species and names, however.  Let me try to help you identify lily species and decide which lilies are right for your garden. First let’s distinguish true lilies from daylilies, which are an entirely different family of plants but are also common garden plants.

Daylilies are from the genus Hemerocallis.  This genus has 19 species and most of them are called daylilies as a common name.  A daylily is a perennial plant whose long leaves look much like broad grass blades and rise from the ground in a clump. The roots are rhizomes, stolons or fibrous not bulbs. It puts up stalks with flowers of various sizes, shapes and colors, each usually lasting just one day, hence the name.  Garden daylilies can be a species or hybrid of species.  All of the species are native to Asia.

Hemerocallis fulva is the common orange daylily which has naturalized in many places in the US.  It is sterile and doesn’t make seeds. It’s often called a ditch lily.  There is also some confusion with this species being called “tiger” lily, which it should not be called.  The name tiger lily should be used for true lilies of the species Lilium tigrinum to avoid confusion.


In contrast to daylilies there are about a 100 species of true lilies, and they are native to many countries, including the US.  A true lily, genus Lilium has a bulb with overlapping scales as its “root”.  A single stalk comes from each bulb, with narrow leaves arranged around the stalk spirally or in whorls. Flowers form on short stalks at the top of the plant.


Besides daylilies other plants that have the common name lily in them are not true lilies. This includes lily of the valley, Peruvian lily, trout lily, calla lily and ginger lily plus others.  Remember true lilies have bulbs, and a central stalk. 

Some Asiatic hybrids
This large genus of Lilium has many species in cultivation and there are many hybrids between species also. I am going to just describe some common garden species and hybrids so you can guess which type of lily you have or decide which you want to have.  I’ll list them in common cultivar groups, each of which may contain many similar species and hybrids of species.

Asiatic lilies are a group consisting of several similar species and their hybrids Lilium auratum, Lilium lancifolium (syn. Lilium tigrinum), Lilium lankongenseLilium amabileLilium bulbiferum, and other species. This lily group consists of the common named tiger lily and a number of widely planted lily hybrids simply known as Asiatic hybrids.  Gorgeous and colorful these lilies have either flowers facing downward with petals curved backward or in the newer hybrids the flowers face outward or upward and the petals do not curve backward.

Many of the original species have flowers whose petals curve backward and the flowers are generally heavily flecked with brown or black. These are the “tiger lily” or “Turks cap” types and you might call them a subset of Asiatic lilies.  There are many cultivated hybrid varieties now on the market in a variety of colors, from orange to white. Most of the tiger lily types have tall stems – up to 5 feet.   They don’t have a scent.
 
Tiger lily

These tiger lily types often have tiny bulbils in the axils of the leaves instead of seeds.  The black, round bulbils often alarm new gardeners who think they are insects, but if planted these bulbils grow into new plants.  Some newer hybrids may not have bulbils. 

The lilies known simply as Asiatic hybrids are the lilies who have been bred to have large showy flowers that face up or to the side. They come from the same group of species as tiger lilies but were selected to have different flower forms by using species that naturally have up facing flowers. These are some of the easiest lilies for gardeners to grow and they come in every color and combination of colors except true blue. Some have speckled throats, some are “clear” colors.  The flowers appear in large clusters at the top of the plant.  They open up the bottom up and each flower stalk can be in bloom for weeks.  These lily flowers are not scented.

Asiatic lily hybrid

As well as being great in the garden, the Asiatic types are wonderful cut flowers and widely used in the floral trade.  These hybrids come in dwarf sizes, with large flowers on 1-foot plants and in various heights from there to 5 feet high.  Most modern hybrids are around 3 feet tall and have sturdy stalks that don’t need staking.  By choosing a variety of cultivars you can have Asiatic lilies in bloom from June through August.

One draw back to the Asiatic lilies, including tiger lily types, is that after bloom- and sometimes even during bloom, the lower leaves start yellowing and the plant looks ratty, a stalk with yellow limp leaves.  If you want nice big flowers the next year you need to leave the stalks until the leaves have fully yellowed and the stalk is turning brown before you cut them down.  That’s why it’s better to plant the lilies toward the back of beds or among plants like ferns, daylilies or other taller perennials to hide the dying foliage.

Asiatic lilies

Longiflorum lilies- Lilium Longiflorum – Easter lily- is really the only species in this group. These have white trumpet shaped blooms, there is one light pink cultivar on the market.  In zone 6 and above these can be planted in the ground.  Some hybrids with other lily species are being developed.

These lilies are a little harder to maintain as perennials in the garden.  In planting zones 5 and lower they can be planted in large pots and the pots stored inside in a cool, above freezing place over winter.  The plants will die back but the bulbs will regrow in spring.

 Lilium Longiflorum

Martagon type lilies are species and hybrids of Lilium dalhansoniiLilium hansoniiLilium martagonLilium medeoloides, and Lilium tsingtauense.  These lilies aren’t used as much as the other lily species in gardens although they are excellent border plants.  They have a lighter, airy look about them, and look good in “natural” settings.  They also do well in partial shade. 

These lilies have the dangling downward type flowers with swept back petals like the tiger lily types. The flowers are smaller and daintier and are generally in pastel shades. They appear at the end of long stems, growing to about 4-5 feet tall.  There are some very early bloomers in this group, I have some that bloom in May here in zone 5.  They are not fragrant.
Martagon type- 'Mrs R O Backhouse'

Oriental liliesLilium speciosum  Lilium japonicum and others. Lilium auratum, is used in hybrids of these species as well as in Asiatic hybrids.  These lilies have large trumpet shaped flowers and are usually heavily scented.  The flowers start in mid-summer and are born on long thick stalks that can be 7 feet tall in some cases.  Some of the flowers have speckled throats or bands of color inside.  The flowers start opening from the bottom and the show lasts a long time in the garden.
Oriental type - 'Casa Blanca"

There are now hundreds of hybrid cultivars of Oriental lilies in all kinds of colors.  Some now have more outward facing flowers. Orienpet lilies are newer garden favorites that are hybrids of Oriental and Trumpet lilies.  
 
Orienpet 'Silk Road"
Trumpet lilies - Lilium regale, Lilium henryiLilium × aurelianenseLilium brownii,  and other species make up this group. They have large trumpet shaped flowers that face down and are scented.  Most are pastel colors and are quite tall plants. The true species are often still sold and are good, hardy garden plants.  Some new hybrids are being sold as “lily trees”.  These have huge stalks of flowers after a few years in the garden and are very impressive.

Like other lily species the stalks can be unattractive after bloom and placing them among other tall plants like ostrich fern or large hosta (they will grow in partial shade) is a good idea. 
 
Trumpet lily
Native species – If you are a native plant gardener there are lily species for you.  Some are endangered so make sure to buy these natives from licensed nurseries.  Some are quite delicate, and their needs should be researched before you purchase them. You’ll need to find out which are native to your area or that will grow in your planting zone. 

These lilies generally have turks cap type flowers. Most have orange or red flowers, although there are some pinks.  Most are not scented.  While some are quite vigorous some of these species lilies need a bit of babying to establish.

Lilium michiganense,

North American species include Lilium bolanderi Lilium canadense, Lilium grayi, Lilium humboldtiiLilium kelleyanumLilium kelloggiiLilium maritimumLilium michauxiiLilium michiganenseLilium occidentale Lilium pardalinumLilium parryiLilium parvumLilium philadelphicumLilium pitkinenseLilium superbumLilium ollmeriLilium washingtonianum, and Lilium wigginsii.

I am not going to go very deeply into lily care here because of length.  Lilies are bought as bulbs, either dormant or as potted plants.  Dormant bulbs are available from a number of catalogs and are best bought and planted in the fall.  Plant them as soon as you get them for best results.  It can take several years for a lily to reach the large impressive sizes shown in catalogs, especially Oriental and Trumpet types but it’s worth the wait.

Orienpet hybrid

Potted lilies from a garden shop may be blooming out of season.  Plant them in the ground as soon as possible.  If you get florist lilies as a gift you can usually plant them in the garden and they will return next year. If it’s cold outside keep them in a sunny window until the soil has warmed up.  Easter lilies are only hardy to about zone 6.   These gift lilies won’t bloom again the same year and they will look like they are dying, this is normal.

Most lilies prefer full sun conditions and they need moderate moisture.  Make sure to research the requirements of different species/hybrids though.  All lilies are poisonous to pets, especially cats, but despite this deer are very fond of them, so take that into consideration when planting them.

There is a lily for every garden.  Lilies are some of the most beautiful and easy to grow flowers a gardener can choose so make sure your garden contains a few.

Pokeweed

Every year about this time gardeners begin asking about a large plant growing in their garden.  Hundreds of pictures of pokeweed will get posted to garden ID sites. Although you never planted it, pokeweed may appear in your garden because birds love the berries and distribute them widely.
 
Pokeweed
en.wikipedia
Pokeweed (Phytolacca Americana), is an interesting plant because it is both eaten and poisonous. It is a native American plant with both ornamental and useful qualities. It can be found both in gardens and along roadsides and in fields. Some other common names for the plant include Ink Plant, Pokeberry and American Cancer, (for reasons unknown).

When I was a child, we used to pick the berries and use them to color our faces and hands, pretending we were Indians.  This was not appreciated by my mother, especially if we got the berry juice on our clothes, which left a large stain.  If you want to dye something reddish purple pokeweed may be your plant.

Pokeweed becomes a large plant, up to 6 feet high, with thick, sturdy reddish stems. It is a perennial plant that dies to the ground each year and forms progressively larger clumps when it returns. The leaves are thick, long and oval in shape, larger at the base of the plant, and arranged alternately on the stems. New spring leaves have red veins and may be tinged with red. The plant has a big, thick taproot. The impressive size and color of the stems convince many gardeners to plant it for visual interest.

Poke begins blooming in July. The small greenish-white flowers are on long spikes at the top and sometimes on smaller side shoots of the plant. Each flower turns into a green berry that ripens to purple black. The juice of the pokeberries is a deep red. It will stain hands and clothing and was used by early settlers in place of ink. Birds love the berries and spread the seeds far and wide. The plants prefer rich soil and grow in full sun or partial shade.

All parts of the plant are considered poisonous. It is the thick succulent shoots of new leaves that are sometimes eaten and known as Poke Salad. These greens must be boiled in at least 2 changes of water to be safe. Berries are attractive and care should be taken that children don’t eat them.  A few deaths have been recorded from adults eating plant parts and at least one child has died from eating berries.  If a child eats even a few berries poison control should be called.  The berries are not safe when cooked, despite some claims.

Pigs have been known to die from eating poke plants and berries so keep the plants away from pets and livestock too.  However, deer must not eat them or can tolerate them, which is too bad. 
 
Pokeweed
USFS

Since the plant is a perennial cutting it down won’t help, it must be pulled or dug to dispose of it. You can safely pull pokeweed and dispose of it.  The poisons it contains can enter through the skin, but you would have to pull a lot of it to even get sick. I don’t recall getting sick, only spanked, when we smeared our bodies with it.  Use gloves and you’ll be fine. Some people might have an allergic skin reaction to it but it’s not like poison ivy.

Some people choose to leave the plant for the birds or for garden interest and that’s fine.  It is a native plant.  But if you have children, I would be very wary of keeping this plant in the garden.  We were warned not to eat it as children and we never did, but some kids aren’t deterred by warnings.


Gardening simply does not allow one to be mentally old, because too many hopes and dreams are yet to be realized. – Allan Armitage

Kim Willis

And So On….

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I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com



Tuesday, July 9, 2019

July 9, 2019 lazy summer gardening


Hi Gardeners
Common daylily
The smoke from Canadian wildfires is wafting down across here today, making a pretty summer day hazy.  I can smell the scent of burning brush on the air. It’s drier in northern Canada than it is here in much of the US and they say lightning has started dozens of fires.
I’ve actually had to water hanging baskets and pots this week.  We had about a half inch of rain the past week although areas near us had much more.  Temperatures were high part of the week and those pots and baskets dry out quickly.  I’m enjoying the cooler weather today.
I was delighted to pick three nice ripe tomatoes from my garden two days ago.  More are ripening.  The variety was Better Boy. It’s the first time Early Girl hasn’t had the first ripe tomatoes, but I broke that plant when I was putting it in the ground and it’s had to recover. It does have several tomatoes near ripening.  I don’t eat supermarket tomatoes, I wait for the real thing, nice juicy sun ripe ones.  We had the best BLT’s on toast for breakfast yesterday since last year.
In my garden the Asiatic lilies are blooming and many of the main season daylilies.  Bee balm and cardinal flower are starting to bloom. The catalpa trees are in bloom.  Some of the hosta are already blooming.  The clematis are loaded with blooms. The evening primrose are fading, and the clustered bellflower is finished blooming, so the purple and gold scheme is fading.  Annuals are really starting to put on a show, I have some very pretty snapdragons now in bloom and the salvias are getting large and showy.
My lemon tree is full of flowers and even one small orange tree I have is blooming.  Both of my jasmines and the peace lily are in bloom.  I have had one hibiscus in bloom but I’m disappointed that my other hibiscus are not blooming yet.  The pomegranate is blooming too. I have a new fuchsia ‘Carmel Blue’ in bloom.  Those houseplants love their summer vacation outside.
Have you been shopping for bargain plants?  Many places are clearing out plants now that it’s hot.  I bought 3 gallon size perennials Sunday that were marked down to $5. I didn’t really need them, and I am still deciding where to put them but hey, bargain plants, right?  If you are still in need of plants now is the time for bargains. 
If you are buying anything in a package, bareroot plants, they should have some green showing.  If they look like a dead stick, they are a dead stick.  Personally, I wouldn’t buy packaged plants this late in the season.  Potted plants should still have leaves, even if they aren’t in the best condition.  Most of them will recover nicely if treated well.
Many of the bargain plants need a good soaking.  If you plant them with a dry root ball you are more likely to lose them.  Sink the pot in a big bucket of water until bubbles stop coming out, leave it another 30 minutes then remove them from the water.  Let them sit in the shade for a few hours.  If they then look a lot perkier plant them in the garden.  Make sure to water them frequently while they are establishing, especially if it’s hot.
Summer bulbs on the bargain rack can still be planted.  Don’t save them for next year before planting. They may be late blooming, or some may not bloom at all this summer, but they should be planted so they can restore some of the nutrients in the tuber or bulb.  You then dig and store them after a frost if they aren’t winter hardy in your zone and next year you’ll have some nice plants.
I have been fertilizing potted plants this week.  If you want baskets and containers to keep blooming all summer, they need fertilization.  Most will be exhausting any extended release fertilizer they were planted with by now.  Sweet corn needs some nitrogen rich fertilizer as soon as it starts to tassel. Most perennials do not need fertilization unless they look like they have a deficiency.  If you used an extended release fertilizer when you planted annuals, they will appreciate another dose sometime this month.
If some plants are looking yellow or chlorotic (green veins in yellow foliage) they may need fertilization.  Too much water or too little water can cause yellowing also as can some plant diseases. If the plants aren’t too wet or dry you can add a balanced fertilizer to see if it helps.  (Except for corn, don’t use a high nitrogen fertilizer, you’ll end up with more foliage than flowers or fruit.)  Epsom salt can cause a temporary green up but it’s a false promise as it doesn’t contain all the nutrients plants need and just covers the symptoms.  Don’t use it.
Plants that look chlorotic may need an acidic fertilizer or they may need iron.  There are many acidic fertilizers on the market.  Often just using one as the label directs will eliminate an iron deficiency, because iron was in the soil, but the pH was too high for plants to be able to use it.   Acidic fertilizers lower soil pH.   Some plants may still need iron, citrus and maples are two types of plants that are sensitive to iron deficiency.  You can buy chelated iron in garden stores or citrus fertilizers generally have iron.
I hope everyone had a nice fourth of July holiday.  It was quiet and peaceful here in the country.
 Japanese Beetles


It’s that time of year.  The hordes of hungry Japanese beetles are out and about.  I found just one yesterday, but it’s a sign more are coming.  Japanese beetles have years when they are numerous and plant damage is bad and years when they aren’t so bad.  One area can be having a good year and another a bad just a few miles apart.
These metallic looking monsters feed on hundreds of plant species and are hard to control as many pesticides aren’t effective on them.  For more information on life cycles and control please read this article.  And good luck!


The volunteer garden
My grandmother had a portion of the garden she called the volunteer garden.  Every year it was a kaleidoscope of colorful annuals.  She never sowed the seeds, unless she wanted to add something different. The plants reseeded themselves.  Every year the garden was different, different flowers in different areas, and different colors.  I remember as a kid going to that garden with her and counting the different colors of bachelors buttons she had that year.  My grandmother was interested in plant breeding, she bred iris’s, and the different colors the bachelors buttons produced on their own interested her.
A couple of years ago I decided to begin a similar garden, I call mine the butterfly or cut flower garden.  I chose a spot in front of the barn, where there was a patch of grass I felt was wasted space. It’s roughly 4 feet wide by 25 feet wide. The first year I started various annuals inside and then transplanted them to the bed.  The second year I used seeds collected from the first year plants and started them inside plus I added a few more types of annuals. 

Example of a volunteer garden
I also plant a row of dahlias along one side every year.  Those I dig and store every fall, and there are a few more of them every year from separating the clumps.  The Japanese lanterns in one corner are perennial and vigorous spreaders that have to be thinned every year.  Anise hyssop, catnip and morning glory found their own way to the bed.
This year I decided not to start any plants inside and just see what came up.  I did buy some zinnia seeds when I didn’t see any coming up and planted them directly in the bed- twice- but I still don’t see any zinnias.  And I added 4 marigolds and 4 cosmos left over from plants I bought for other parts of the yard.  I added a verbena bonariensis and a hummingbird mint plant that will hopefully shed their seeds into the mix for next year. 
So, what came up this year voluntarily?  Lots of love in a mist, bachelor’s buttons (many colors), four o’clocks, tithonia, maltese cross (Lychnis chalcedonica), valerian (which I never planted), cosmos, calendula, marigolds, and Nicotiana sylvestris.  There are possibly other things I’ll notice later, maybe some zinnias will eventually appear.  The morning glories are there of course, and anise hyssop, both of which I keep pulling to keep them from taking over.  I’ve also thinned the love in a mist somewhat, it grows so thickly.
There are some Canterbury bells coming up, they won’t bloom this year because they are biannual, but they should be pretty next year. And this year garden phlox have also found their way into the bed.  There’s not too much color yet, but the dahlias are almost ready to bloom and by mid-month things should be popping.
These volunteer gardens are always a surprise, because you don’t know what you’ll get each year.  You might not want one in your front yard, because they can be a bit messy, but if you have a patch of ground you aren’t using and want to try, here are some suggestions.
The first year you need to work up an area for seeds to be planted. I slice off the sod, dig any deep-rooted weeds and then just rake up the soil when I make a new bed.  You may want to start seeds inside the first year and transplant seedlings into the bed.  This gives you a bit of a head start that first year.  You can also buy plants from a nursery the first year.
Or just buy a bunch of seeds of annual and perennial flowers you like and sprinkle them on the ground.  Seed heavily, you can always thin the plants.  There are many plants that will reseed freely from year to year.  Here are some to try: anise hyssop, Bachelor’s buttons, bush balsam ( touch me nots), calendula, cosmos, (both types) Canterbury bells, cleome, four o’clocks, hollyhocks, Love in a mist, Love lies bleeding, nicotiana of many types, Maltese cross, marigolds (use tall, old fashioned types),poppies, stocks, sunflowers of many types, tithonia, valerian, verbena bonariensis, zinnias.  There are other old-fashioned annuals and even some new plants you may want to try. 
Some of the above are short lived perennials and plants may come back the next spring too.  Canterbury bells and hollyhocks are biennials and probably won’t bloom the first year.  You may want to plant biennials two years in a row so that you get a good rotation started.
Japanese lantern, money plant and pumpkins on a stick don’t have interesting flowers but do have interesting seedpods if you like dried flower arrangements.  These can be added but you’ll probably want to thin them out and confine them to a certain spot because they can become invasive and take over most of your bed. 
You can also add bulbs or tubers to your garden that can be dug and stored in cold winter areas if you are willing to do a little more work.  I like cannas, crocosmia, dahlias, glads, and peacock orchids.  In some areas many of these might survive left in the ground. You could also mix in Asiatic, Oriental, martagon or trumpet lilies. These would not have to be stored over winter.  Daylilies could also be added, but now we are getting into more of a garden border plan.
Don’t deadhead (remove dying flowers) the plants if you want them to reseed.  In the fall you may want to collect some seed from your favorite plants and store it inside in a cool, dry place, ensuring that some seed will survive the birds and winter.  Label the seeds!  Then you can start those seeds in the spring inside for earlier flowers or plant the seed outside in the bed in the spring.
In the fall you may want to shake seed heads over areas you’d like seed to grow in spring.  If the seed heads hang over lawns or places you don’t want seeds to grow break them off and throw them where you do want the plants.  I think it’s best to leave the dead plants stand over the winter and do clean up in the early spring.  This helps ensure seeds fall in the garden area and protects those that do.
Bachelor's Buttons and cosmos
If there are plants in there you don’t want to come back you should cut off the flowers as they fade.  You may still get a few of those plants the following year, sometimes you miss a flower or seeds stay in the soil to the second year.  You should pull them as soon as you recognize them.  Pay attention the first year as to what the plants look like before they flower, you may want to take pictures of the foliage before flowering and then with flowers so you know what everything is as it comes up.
Things like zinnias and marigolds tend to revert to more of a wild type flower after a few years.  You may want to buy some new seeds or plants to add to this type of garden from time to time.  And look for new seeds or plants to add each year to add variety.
The beauty of a volunteer garden is that it doesn’t take a lot of work. You need to do some weeding, but some weeds can be left and probably will be, without much of an impact.  If it gets really dry things will flower better if watered. This isn’t a formal garden and can look a bit messy at times but it’s a fun garden and pollinators usually love it.  Why not try one?

Composting in place

There’s a lot of weeding and trimming to be done when the weather is warm and wet. Most gardeners have a compost pile where they can pile those weeds and trimmings to rot and turn into brown gold.  But in some cases, you can let those weeds compost right in the garden. It will return nutrients to the soil, keep soil moist and make things easier for you.
When you are pulling tender succulent weeds like grass, clover, pigweed, chickweed, lamb’s quarters and so on, you can simply throw the pulled weeds in the row or tuck them under large plants. They’ll quickly wilt and turn into compost right there, in an amazingly short time. When I am weeding my flower beds, I tuck piles of weeds under the hosta or between large plants.  When I am weeding the vegetables weeds either go between large plants like tomatoes or on the paths.  Weeds piled on the path discourage more weeds from growing there.  Just don’t make the piles too big to easily walk on. 
There is a trick to this method of in place composting.  You want the weeds you pull to be hidden in most areas. By midsummer plants are often large enough that you can hide pulled weeds around and beneath them.  You don’t want to try to hide large weed plants or branches, those still go to a compost pile.  You don’t want the weeds to regrow, so if the pulled weeds have roots make sure the roots are facing upward, not laying on the ground. Don’t make the piles too deep, as roots may be protected from drying out and begin to grow.  Pulled weeds that are spread thinly decompose very quickly.
Anything you remove that’s diseased, plants with powdery mildew, tomato leaves with fungal disease and so on, should either be bagged with trash or buried.  It shouldn’t be composted anywhere to avoid spreading disease.  If you are having a problem with snails and slugs on some plants, don’t pile pulled weeds near them.  Don’t use weeds with mature seeds on them for composting in place as the seeds may germinate.
Any weeds that were killed with weed killers should not be used near plants or even put in the compost pile.  Some weed killers can remain potent in compost and will harm plants the compost is spread around.
It’s fine to put pulled weeds on top of mulch to decompose.  The mulch decomposes too, but usually at a slower pace. Or if you want, sweep back the mulch, add the pulled weeds and then replace the mulch. In this case some weeds may regrow though, if they have roots.  Organic mulches like spoiled hay may allow pulled weeds to grow in them if they are thrown on the mulch. This is more likely in wet weather.
Don’t worry about decomposing weeds robbing plants of nitrogen. It doesn’t happen to any harmful degree. Green weeds even restore some nitrogen to the soil when they decompose.  Soil microbes like to utilize decomposing weeds and won’t be harmed.
Grass clippings, from lawns that haven’t been treated with weed killers, can also be used as compost around plants. Don’t pile them too deeply unless you let them dry in the sun first.  Green clippings may produce a lot of heat as they begin to decompose if they are piled deeply.  This may harm nearby plants.  They also mat and smell if piled deeply.
Some people don’t like the look of pulled weeds on paths or between plants and in some circumstances that’s understandable.  My gardens are crowded with plants, so weeds are easily hidden beneath them.  Yours may have plants that have lots of space around them because you like the look.  But done correctly composting in place won’t be noticeable in many locations and not a problem in some places where looks aren’t that important.
Compost is good for plants and nature uses composting in place as her preferred method.  Why cart the weeds away to a pile when you can put them to use right where they grew?

Are Honeybees helpful or harmful?

Everybody is worried about the loss of native bees.  There seem to be fewer of our common native bees every year.  Some species have become endangered as their populations fall.  While pesticides account for some of the loss, there is a surprising culprit for the decline of native pollinators that most people don’t consider- the honeybee. 
Honeybees aren’t native to North America.  They were brought here to produce honey and to pollinate some European crops.  Honeybees should be considered domestic animals, like cows and sheep, that occasionally go wild here in North America.  And some recent studies have found that honeybees are at least partly responsible for the loss and decline of several of our native bees. In some areas, researchers have found honeybees cause more losses than pesticides or loss of habitat.
Native bee
There are two ways that honeybees can impact native bees.  One is competition. Honeybees may directly compete with bumblebees and other native bees for pollen and nectar.  Since honeybees often have human help to survive, they may have an advantage over native bees.  When large numbers of hives are brought into an area to produce honey, native bee populations may suffer.
Some native flowers have not evolved to be pollinated by honeybees and honeybees don’t get the job done yet they may consume the pollen and nectar the flowers produce.  Native bees have less to eat and may not be attracted to flowers minus their pollen and nectar. This is the at least part of the cause of declining populations of native plants in some areas.  In areas where large numbers of honeybee hives have been placed this is more noticeable.  Just the sheer number of honeybees in an area may starve out native bees because there is only so much food to share.
The second way honeybees cause a decline in native bees is by spreading diseases and parasites to them which they are not used to dealing with. Honeybees have several diseases and parasites that can infect native bees including Varroa mite, Nosema ceranae, deformed wing virus and black queen cell virus.  Recent studies have found that virus particles, bacteria and parasites may transfer to flowers that honeybees visit, which then infect native bees visiting them.  While humans may treat their infected bee livestock and honeybees may have developed some resistance to diseases and parasites, the wild bees don’t have these advantages.
Honeybees are bought from distant places, sometimes from other countries, transported here and then released, which can rapidly spread disease.   Honeybees are trucked around the country to pollinate crops, which also spreads disease. The “honey hobby” is still hot. Thousands of backyard beekeepers may be contributing to the problem.  Beekeepers may not notice diseases or fail to deal with them correctly, hence spreading diseases to wild bees.  The number of honeybee hives in an area may also be overwhelming native bees.
It may be time that we stop worrying about honeybees and considering a plethora of them as a good sign. We may need to limit the keeping of honeybees in areas where wild bees or certain native plants are declining.   Most garden flowers and native flowers don’t need honeybees for pollination.  A few crops like almonds may do better when honeybees are brought in but maybe we should limit trucking bees around the country and insist hives stay in one area.
It’s odd when we worry about some pretty flower that’s not native and ceaselessly condemn it but revere another non-native species, the honeybee, that may be doing even more harm to the environment and native plants and animals.  We are spraying tons of pesticides to combat non-native plants which also kill thousands of native bees.


Personally, I would rather see native bees than honeybees.  It’s like seeing a warbler rather than a chicken. There are so many different shapes and sizes and colors of native bees, all evolved to fit into a natural niche in the environment whereas a honeybee is just a honeybee, pretty much the same and not really a fit for many natural ecosystems.
Hives of honeybees don’t really help the environment. Native plants don’t need them. If you like honey keep a hive and make sure the bees are healthy.  Think of them like a flock of chickens you keep for fresh eggs.  Don’t think you are doing the environment a favor by adding more hives.  Would the environment be healthier if you turned a thousand chickens loose?  Give the native bees and plants a break.

More information-references

July almanac

The full moon in July this year is on the 16th.  The moon perigee was the 5th     and I got rain here, as usual around the perigee. Moon apogee is the 20th This month’s full moon is called the buck moon or hay moon, depending on whether you are a farmer or hunter, I guess.  It’s called buck moon because the buck deer’s antlers begin to show this month.  Wheat harvest is supposed to be this month – but in many places it isn’t going to happen as the wheat was flooded out. 

This month’s flower is the sunflower- very appropriate and the birthstone is the ruby. It’s National Blueberry, Eggplant, Lettuce, Mango, Melon, Nectarine and Garlic month as well as National Hotdog and Vanilla Ice Cream month.  Why isn’t it National Cherry month?  The second week of July is nude recreation week.  Have fun.

The Delta Aquariids meteor showers begin mid-month and peak on July 27-30th.  These meteors continue into mid- August and overlap with the Perseids meteor shower. Best viewing will be around 2 am for most of the US. Look to the south. 




Paradise and shade are close relatives on a summer day.  

Kim Willis

And So On….

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