Tuesday, November 13, 2018

November 13, 2018 Kim’s Weekly Garden Blog


Snow noiseless sifts
Ere night, an icy shroud, which morning's rays
Will idly shine upon and slowly melt...
Bare are the places where the sweet flowers dwelt.
What joy sufficient hath November felt?
~Helen Fiske Hunt Jackson
Hi Gardeners
A rose in November
It snowed here last night.  I woke up to about an inch covering the ground and clinging to the trees.  The ground is still warm and although the day is quite cold some of the snow is already gone.  It’s better than 2015 when we received 8 inches around the 20th of November.  I wish we could send it to California, a blanket of wet snow on those fires would be wonderful.
I was outside for a brisk walk; my little dog actually loves cold and snow.  We let the chickens out around 1 pm so they can free range a bit. They don’t mind a little snow on the ground.  They like scratching through the dry leaves and plucking at weed seeds.  However our 2 old turkeys rarely venture out of the barn now.
It’s amazing which plants stay green through cold and snow and still have their leaves.  The calibrachoa still has it’s leaves and is green even though it stopped blooming.  The bamboo is green and the arum.  The heuchera isn’t technically green, it’s purple but it’s hanging in there. The roses have colored up a bit but retain their leaves.  The barberry by the barn is glowing orange still.
Gardening chores this week included putting up stakes around the arborvitae and euonymus and some small trees.  I’ll get netting attached to the stakes some time this week.  I may add the solar twinkling lights, I haven’t decided.  Opening day for deer hunting is this week and we gave permission to a friend to hunt our property.  I am hoping he’ll diminish some of the deer problem.
The junco’s are here so winter is near.  They migrate here from the north, we are their winter grounds. The geese are here in the hundreds, gleaning the fields before flying off to find open water. When I go out at dusk to shut up the chickens the noise from the geese honking fills the air. The birds are mobbing the feeders now.  I tried mixing some cheaper wild bird seed mix with the sunflower seed this fall but that experiment is done.  The blue jays sit there and toss the small seed on the ground to get to the sunflowers.
"The wild gander leads his flock through the cool night,
Ya-honk!  he says, and sounds it down to me like an invitation:
The pert may suppose it meaningless, but I listen closer,
I find its purpose and place up there toward the November sky."
-   Walt Whitman
Manure in the Garden

A new study has outlined the benefits of manure over commercial fertilizers.  Manure is less likely to change soil pH than common fertilizers, it improves soil structure as it provides lots of organic matter, especially if mixed with animal bedding, and it usually is high in nitrogen.  Manure improves soil aggregates, the way soil sticks together, which lessens erosion and makes a better place for plant roots.

Fall is a good time to apply manure to your garden beds, both flower and vegetable.  While composted manure is best you can even use fresh manure on plots where nothing is growing in the fall. The cold days and closed windows will make the manure application more neighbor friendly too. And you don’t have to worry about manure contaminating food crops with soil borne diseases if you apply it after harvest.

Manure varies greatly in composition and how much nutrients it can supply.  The longer the manure has sat around the fewer nutrients it will have left. You want manure that has been composting for a month or two, but that which has been left for a year or more in piles will probably not have many nutrients left. Manure mixed with straw, sawdust or wood shavings will still provide the garden with lots of organic matter however.  Manure mixed with bedding is the ideal manure to apply to your beds.

Apply composted manure to flower beds and perennial crops after the plants are dormant and the ground cold, but preferably not frozen. You could apply 6-8 inches of manure if you have it.  If manure is applied before plants are dormant, they may start growing again and that new growth will be winter killed, wasting plant resources. 

Manure applied to frozen ground is more likely to run off nutrients which contaminate nearby water.  And if the ground is frozen the nitrogen in the manure will largely disappear before the spring thaw.  Adding 3-4 inches of manure before the ground freezes will keep it from freezing for a long while and let soil microbes work it into the soil.

There are a few drawbacks to manure though.  Manure increases soil electrical conductivity, which helps soil hold on to mineral elements. Some of these are salts, which over time, can build up in the soil. Manure may also contain weed seeds.

If manure washes off it can run into surface water, contaminating it.  And it can even contaminate ground water in certain circumstances. Don’t apply manure on slopes or close to bodies of water, ditches, or drains.  Keep it 50 feet away from any wells.

To read more;


"In the evenings
I scrape my fingernails clean,
hunt through old catalogues for new seed,
oil work boots and shears.
This garden is no metaphor --
more a task that swallows you into itself,
earth using, as always, everything it can."
-  Jan Hirshfield, 

Go nuts-live longer

Research results published in the New England Journal of Medicine in 2013 report that people who eat a handful of nuts each day- (about 1-2 ounces) are 20 % less likely to die from any cause that people who didn’t eat nuts.  The study followed people for 30 years so I guess it’s better to say that compared to a person who doesn’t eat nuts the nutty person is more likely to have a long life. ( I am definitely a nutty person.)

At the American Heart Association's Scientific Sessions in 2018 researchers presented studies that found that when people ate one serving of nuts daily they tended to weigh less and have less cardio- vascular problems than those that didn’t eat nuts.  If the nuts replaced a snack like chips, cookies or even meat the results were even better. A serving of nuts is about 1 oz. and can be any tree nut or peanuts. Brazil nuts in particular, were also found to help regulate blood glucose and make people feel full longer.

Over a 30-year period examined in the earlier studies the people who ate nuts reduced their risk for heart attacks and strokes by 29% over people who didn’t eat nuts.  And the risk for all types of cancer was reduced by 11%.  Another study published in July 2013 found that daily nut consumption dropped your risk of cardiovascular problems by 55% and your risk of cancer by 40%.  Other research studies have linked eating nuts to a lower risk of diabetes, gallstones and diverticulitis.  Nut consumption has been linked to lower blood cholesterol, even though nuts contain fats.

In 2017 nutritionists at Friedrich Schiller University Jena (Germany) found that nut consumption helped inhibit the growth of cancer cells. The benefit is found to be from “detoxifying reactive oxygen species” which is science-speak for anti-oxidant properties.

In most research all types of nuts were found to be effective, both peanuts and tree nuts.  However, a study published in Bio- Med Central's open access journal BMC Medicine in July 2013 found that walnuts had the highest amount of beneficial alpha-linoleic acid and phytochemicals.  Since different types of nuts have slightly different vitamins and minerals it could be wise to eat a variety of nuts.

Nuts are not the same as nut butters, such as peanut butter, if they contain added sugars and fats.  For a nut butter to be healthy it should only contain nuts and maybe a small amount of salt. 

A great Christmas present this year might be a large can of nuts.

Here’s some more reading.


"All in November's soaking mist
We stand and prune the naked tree,
While all our love and interest
Seem quenched in the blue-nosed misery."
-  Ruth Pitter

Peperomia as houseplants

The peperomia genus contains a number of species which are familiar houseplants, but it also has some species that those who like something different can seek out.  Most of the peperomias make good houseplants for beginners and are fairly easy to care for. They are often found in the dish gardens that florists send and so many people end up with them without knowing how to care for them. Peperomias are native to South America and they are related to the black pepper we eat.

Peperomia magnoliaefolia variegate, cultivar unknown

Often one finds peperomias for sale without any species names or even common names.  Common names can vary from place to place.  And as in many plants even the scientific names have changed from time to time and one seller may use a different scientific name than the other for the same plant.  It’s confusing but I’ll try and describe some of the common peperomias on the market.

Peperomias can be upright or trailing plants.  The leaves vary considerably between species.  Many are thick, smooth and waxy, but others are thin and wrinkled. Some are even hairy.  Usually the leaves are rounded ovals or heart shaped but one species Peperomia verticillata has narrow leaves arranged in whorls on the stem. 

Common peperomia species are Peperomia magnoliaefolia variegate, which has an upright, bushy shape and round waxy leaves of green variegated with gold. There’s a trailing ‘Cupid’ peperomia, P. scandens variegate, that also has oval waxy leaves with splashes of gold but it also has pinkish stems.

Another Peperomia magnoliaefolia variegate,

Peperomia argyreia is often called ‘Watermelon leaf’ peperomia.  It is upright with thin oval leaves that are dark green with silver stripes. P.caperata is an upright species with heart shaped wrinkled leaves with red stems.  There’s a cultivar of this species which is very tiny ‘Little Fantasy’, and a cultivar with a broad white edge on the leaves. 

P. clusifolia is often called ‘Baby Rubber’ plant.  It has oval dark green shiny leaves with a purple edge.  There are new cultivars of peperomia species coming on the market all the time.  If this species interests you, you may want to check out this website http://www.peperomia.net/

Most peperomias have flowers that look like a pipe cleaner stuck in the pot, a spike filled with tiny flowers. They are sometimes referred to as “rat tails” They are usually greenish yellow.

Caring for peperomia

Peperomia are plants from the understory of rain forests and they don’t like direct sunlight.  They prefer to grow in bright indirect light and do well in artificial light.  They make a good plant for a brightly lit office, even without windows.  A north window is also a good spot for them.

Peperomias thrive in average room temperatures.  Keep them above 50 degrees and out of cold drafts.  Even though they are rain forest plants they tolerate low humidity in winter, but they do like more humidity in summer.  Homes that fall below 40% humidity and are kept warmer than 75 degrees in winter may need to have the plants on humidity trays.

 P.caperata 'Emerald Ripple' showing typical flowers.
Photo from www.TopTropicals.com

From their rain forest understory origination peperomia prefer a potting medium with a lot of organic matter, such as extra peat moss added to the potting medium. Orchid potting medium will also work well for them.  The potting medium must be well draining and all pots peperomia are in need drainage holes.  That’s why they should be removed from those gift dish gardens as soon as possible.

Care must be taken when watering peperomia.  One of the most common reasons for failure with this plant is over watering. They need to dry a little between watering but do not let them dry out too much.  If they wilt check the pot immediately, both being too dry and stem rot from being too wet can cause wilting.  They will need less water in winter.

Peperomia plants benefit from light fertilization from late spring until mid-summer, when a lot of new growth is occurring. Just use a houseplant fertilizer according to directions every other watering.

Peperomia have few insect problems or diseases. If leaves drop check your watering practices, make sure they are not in a draft or too cold.  Dried leaf edges probably mean the humidity is too low.  Many peperomia have somewhat brittle stems so use care when moving them.  They are also a plant which does better with less repotting or location changes.

If you enjoy making new plants peperomia are easy to start from cuttings.  They can be started from a single leaf stuck in potting medium or from a stem cutting.  Seeds are rarely produced in home settings.
If you need a plant that’s easy to care for and will grow without a sunny window a peperomia species will be able to fill the position.

Fear not November's challenge bold—
We've books and friends,
And hearths that never can grow cold:
These make amends!
~Alexander L. Fraser

MSU plant trials top winners- and losers

Every year Michigan State University trials a variety of plants to see how they do in the Midwest region. Plants are donated by the companies that introduce them, by All American Selections, and Fleuroselects.  Some are planted in the ground, some in containers, some in both.  The donors can decide whether they will be planted in the ground or containers. The trials are managed by Daedre McGrath and are under the direction of Dr. Kristin Getter, Assistant Professor of Horticulture and MSU Horticulture Garden's Director.

The trial gardens now contain annuals, perennials and even native plants and vegetables. If you go to East Lansing, Michigan you can visit the trial gardens on the MSU campus. Most flowers are planted in the "formal" gardens to the west of the Plant and Soil Science Building.  Native plant trials are located in beds just to the east of the Food Safety and Toxicology Building. Vegetables are in a garden south of the rose gardens.

Plants are evaluated all growing season and notes are taken every few weeks.  You can see the results from 2018 here. https://www.canr.msu.edu/hrt/our_gardens/trial_garden/index

I have gone through the results and picked out the best and worse of the selections for this year and they are below.  Keep this list so you can use it when you go plant shopping this spring if you want the best.  Remember if you are in a different planting zone the plants may perform differently for you.  And weather and other conditions can affect plants grown in the same planting zones, so this is just a guide.

Two Angelonia’s made the top grade both from Proven Winners; Angelface® Blue Imp and Angelonia Angelface® Cascade Blue.  These are for sun and notes indicated these varieties were full and uniform looking.

Three Begonia’s from PanAmerican Seed – ‘Megawatt’ series- ‘Rose Bronze Leaf’, ‘Red Bronze Leaf’ and ‘Pink Bronze Leaf’ were rated a 5, notes said they bloomed well and were nice and full.

Another Begonia ‘Canary Wings’ from Ball Ingenuity earned a 5, notes said it was a great “spiller” in containers.  It has golden foliage with pink flowers.

A Calibrachoa (Million Bells)- ‘Mounding Butter Pop’ from Suntory got a 5 grade – notes said it was an excellent filler-spiller and had lots of color.

Several Coleus from the ColorBlaze® series by Proven Winners earned a 5 – ‘Chocolate Drop’, ‘Golden Dreams™’, ‘Rediculous™’ ‘Sedona Sunset™’ ‘Torchlight™’, and ‘Strawberry Drop.’  They were described as vigorous, bushy and uniform.
Coleus ColorBlaze®‘Strawberry Drop' from Proven Winners

One more Coleus ‘Pinksplosion’ by Ball earned a 5.  Notes said the color was great and it was nice and uniform.

A heliopsis ‘Burning Hearts’ from Jelitto earned a 5. Notes said it had amazing fill and color.
Heliopsis ‘Burning Hearts’
Photo from www.Selectseeds.com

Ipomoea ‘Sweet Caroline Kiwi’ from Proven Winners also earned a 5. Notes said it had a unique texture with a red edge on the leaves and was vigorous.

Proven Winners had a winner in Ocimum ‘Amazel™’ . This is a basil with downy mildew resistance. Notes said it was uniform, lots of flowers and attracted lots of pollinantors.

Three pentas from PanAmerican Seed’s Lucky Star series,- Dark Red, Pink and Raspberry won a 5 rating.  They were said to be colorful, free flowering and attracted lots of pollinators.

PanAmerican Seed also had winners with 2 Petunia’s – ‘Easy Wave Silver Sun’ and ‘Easy Wave Violet Improved’.  They were described as a carpet of color.

Proven Winners also had some winning Petunias; ‘Supertunia Vista® Bubblegum’, ‘Supertunia Vista® Paradise’, ‘Supertunia® Blue Skies’ and ‘Supertunia® White Charm’.  They were described as a carpet of flower power.

Two vinca’s from PanAmerican Seed; Tattoo Raspberry and Tattoo Tangerine were given top ratings.  They were described as unique with dark eyes and a vigorous growth pattern.

Tattoo Raspberry Vinca from PanAmerican Seed

Those were the top winners in the trials this year.  But there were some not so great plants in the trials too.  They are below.

A perennial plant Lavender ‘White Spike’ from Great Lakes Lavender Growers only earned a 2.75 rating.  It had a lot of winter dieback and the blooms were sparse and late.

A goldenrod (Solidago) ‘Golden Rockets’ from Jelitto earned a 2.83.  It suffered from spider mites and a bacterial blight in the trial.

PanAmerican Seed’s sunflower ‘SunBuzz’ only earned a 2.67 rating.  It finished flowering early and suffered from powdery mildew.

Cosmos ‘Sonata Purple Shades’ from PanAmerican Seed, only earned a 2.50 rating.  It was described as lanky, with few flowers and faded color.  It also got powdery mildew.


"All the cabbages in our garden are robust and green to the core;
All the peppers are dead and black, not red anymore.
The onions are thriving, the tomatoes all gone,
The lettuce is rising, the pecans all stored;
It’s wet now in Red Bluff, Winter’s knocking at the door."
- Mike Garofalo, Cuttings

Cranberry and walnut scones

Scones are more like a biscuit than a sweet treat and these cranberry-walnut scones would go well with your Thanksgiving meal.  Or they could be something to munch on while the turkey cooks.  And the recipe is versatile- I like to make these scones with dried cherries and almonds.  You can use the traditional raisins in them too.

I use a food processor to make the dough, but you can use a mixer or even a spoon.  Don’t mix the dough too long, just enough to get the ingredients combined well. You don’t want to knead or handle the dough too much for the best texture.

Ingredients

4 cups flour + a little for dusting pan
½ cup sugar
8 tablespoons butter (1 stick) cut into small slices, keep cold
1 ¾ cup half and half + a couple tablespoons for brushing on tops
(note you can sub whole milk, but the scones won’t be as soft and fluffy, don’t use low fat or artificial milks.)
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 cup dried cranberries
½ cup walnuts

Directions

Put cherries and nuts into the food processor and coarsely chop. ( Don’t process them into “dust.”)  Remove and set aside.

Put the flour, sugar and baking powder in the processor and pulse a few times to mix.

Add the butter slices and pulse process until you have a fine crumbly mixture.
Slowly pour in the half and half, while processing until a soft dough forms.  Don’t over process.

Add the cherries and nuts and pulse process to just blend them into dough.
Turn the dough out on to a lightly floured 11 x 14 sheet pan or cookie sheet.
Pat the dough out to a rectangle about an inch thick.  You may have to use a little flour on top or on your hands to keep them from sticking.

Cover the dough with a clean towel and let it sit for 30-45 minutes in a cool spot.

Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees F.  Cut the dough by using a biscuit cutter or mouth of a drinking glass.  You should get 16-18 rounds.

Lightly spray cooking sheets or use parchment paper on sheets.  Place the scones an inch apart on the sheets.

Brush the tops of the scones with a little half and half so they brown nicely. You could also use melted butter.

Bake about 15 minutes, until the scones are lightly browned. Let them cool 5 minutes before removing from sheets.

Scones are best served warm.  Serve with butter, - cinnamon sugar butter is yummy, cream cheese or make some Devonshire cream for them.

Left over scones can be stored in zip lock bags in the freezer.

"I prefer winter and fall, when you feel the bone structure of the landscape - the loneliness of it, the dead feeling of winter.  Something waits beneath it, the whole story doesn't show." 
-   Andrew Wyeth

Kim Willis
All parts of this blog are copyrighted and may not be used without permission.

And So On….

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Newsletter/blog information
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


Tuesday, November 6, 2018

November 2, 2018 Kim’s Weekly Garden Blog


November is chill, frosted mornings with a silver sun rising behind the trees, red cardinals at the feeders, and squirrels running scallops along the tops of the gray stone walls.- Jean Hersey
Hi Gardeners

I went outside to the barn this morning and it was quite warm and windy.  We had rain overnight so it was also wet.  But a little while ago I went out to get the mail and the temperatures were falling and with the strong wind it was chilly.  There are rain and storms over much of the country. I hope everyone doesn’t let the rain keep them from voting.
The garden outside is pretty much done.  I harvested some gourds.  I’ve got all my bulbs planted and I dug up the dahlias and glads, although I still have to sort through them and package them up for storage. I still have to put away garden ornaments and lawn chairs and a bit of this and that but winter prep is almost done.
Inside the plants that dropped their leaves are rapidly recovering.  I have a lot of things in bloom inside, fuchsia, hibiscus, canna (yes canna I have a dwarf size one that has pretty yellow flowers on and off all winter), geraniums, streptocarpus, dipladenia, wax begonias, New Guinea impatiens, my peace lily, and even the Chinese foxglove I potted up is still blooming.  I like flowering houseplants although I have many that don’t flower too. But it’s so nice to look around to see flowers as well as greenery.
I pulled a 2 feet long piece of sweet potato vine out of my ornamental pond where it had invaded and rooted in the water.  I planted the piece in a pot and set it in a north window and while most of the original leaves dried up and died the stem is now pushing out lots of new tiny leaves. I’ll move it to brighter light soon and I hope it will survive until spring. I’ve wintered them inside before but it’s tricky.
I wish I had more room inside for plants.  I keep seeing things I would like to have but just don’t have space for.
"If it is true that one of the greatest pleasures of gardening lies in looking forward, then the planning of next year's beds and borders must be one of the most agreeable occupations in the gardener's calendar.  This should make October and November particularly pleasant months, for then we may begin to clear our borders, to cut down those sodden and untidy stalks, to dig up and increase our plants, and to move them to other positions where they will show up to greater effect.  People who are not gardeners always say that the bare beds of winter are uninteresting; gardeners know better, and take even a certain pleasure in the neatness of the newly dug, bare, brown earth."
-   Vita Sackville-West 
Do you journal your garden?
If time has taught me one thing, it’s that I don’t remember everything I plant or where I plant it without keeping a record.  It might be a joyful surprise when something springs up that you don’t remember planting, but it can be a sad waste if you toss out something that you spent good money on thinking it was a weed or more commonly, kill it because you plant over it.
I carefully write down what I buy and where I plant it in a notebook.  This certainly helps when I’m planning my lists of things to buy in the winter or when I’m looking for things to come up in the spring.  I also look back over the years and wonder where all those plants went to- it’s common for things to fade away after that first season.  But if I keep planting something in the same spot and it keeps dying there and needing to be replaced, I know I should either stop buying it or plant it somewhere else.


I write down on a calendar when things sprout in the spring and when they bloom.  I keep the calendars and each year I can compare them to see when I should expect to see plants emerging and blooming.  I write down when I harvested my first fruits of a vegetable variety and I always keep in my journal what varieties of vegetables I plant every year. This helps me remember what does and doesn’t grow well in my garden.
I take pictures of my garden beds every week or two from the minute things pop up in spring until a hard frost shuts down the garden.  Some of the pictures I share with you all, but many are just for my own use, especially if something wasn’t doing well or the cat was pooping in the background.  I love looking at the pictures in winter.  I can see where I need to add or replace plants.  I can remember what color the lilies in a certain spot were or spot times when the garden didn’t have much in bloom.  It all becomes part of my planning for the next year.
Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, and many other noted people in history kept journals in which they itemized what they planted and how it grew. Our memories are all faulty at times and as you get older it gets worse. Before winter erases all your memories of your garden it’s time to begin that garden journal.  No one but you will probably ever care about what’s written in your notebooks and calendars about your garden unless you are someone famous, but you will surely find worth and comfort in them.
Some of the days in November carry the whole memory of summer as a fire opal carries the color of moonrise.- Gladys Taber
November Almanac
This month’s full moon, November 23, is called the full beaver or full frost moon.  In earlier times beaver traps were set about this time and of course a large part of the country has now received killing frosts.  Moon apogee is November 14th and moon perigee is November 26th.  I predict snow in many places around the perigee.


Both topaz and citrine are considered to be birthstones for November. November's birth flower is the chrysanthemum.  It’s National Adoption month, Native American Heritage Month, Peanut Butter Lovers month, American Diabetes Month, National Alzheimer's Disease Awareness Month, and Lung Cancer Awareness Month.
In England November 5th is known as Guy Fawkes Day, or Bonfire night.  It originally celebrated to commemorate what was known as the gunpowder revolution but has become known as a day to burn effigies or pictures of hated people and things.  If you have an anger issue that night may be your chance to burn some anger.  After the midterm election this might be a good chance to let it go.
November 11th is Veterans Day, the 13th is Sadie Hawkins Day, World Diabetes Day is November 14th, World Toilet Day, whatever that means, is November 19th, November 22nd is Thanksgiving. Black Friday, which is an actual holiday in some states, is the 23rd.  The 28th is a busy day, Abe Lincoln and Robert E Lees birthdays, (isn’t it odd they share a birthday?) and American Indian Heritage Day.
Fallen leaves lying on the grass in the November sun bring more happiness than the daffodils.- Cyril Connolly

It’s deer crash season
It’s that time of year- high season for car or motorcycle and deer crashes.  Averaged across the US your chances of hitting a deer, elk, or moose each year are about 1 in 167 (through the whole year) but in many states your chances are much higher.  In my state of Michigan, it’s 1 in 80.  In South Dakota, Montana, Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota and Pennsylvania your odds are even higher.  And this is just the statistics from reported crashes, many estimate half of all collisions aren’t reported.
Hitting a deer may not just damage your car, it can seriously injure you or kill you.  In 2016, the last year I could find stats for, 189 people died.  Many more were injured and damage to vehicles is over 5 billion dollars a year. In many states if you drive and haven’t hit a deer you probably will soon.  I personally have hit deer twice.

Car-deer collisions are more likely to happen in the months of September through December, but they can happen at any time.  In the fall it’s breeding season and bucks are chasing does and neither is as cautious as normal.  Fields are also being harvested, driving deer out and hunters may also be spooking them.
The time around dusk and dawn is the most common time for collisions.  In the fall this coincides with work rush hours.  But deer can cross the road anytime of the day or night.  Two lane roads in rural areas are the site where many crashes occur, but even larger cities have deer now.
To do the best you can to avoid hitting deer try not to drive around dawn and dusk, go slower if you do and pay attention to the road.  If you see deer crossing signs or know that deer are common in the area be even more cautious. The old saying that if you see one there are probably more is true – deer are often in groups.  If one crosses in front of you another may be right behind it- or two or three.
Swerving to avoid hitting the deer is one of the worst things you can do and is responsible for many injuries and human fatalities. If a crash is imminent apply the brakes, hold the wheel firmly with both hands, steer straight ahead and don’t close your eyes.  Remember if you miss that one another may be coming. Sometimes the deer will just be clipped and will run off.
Wear your seatbelt.  If you are a motorcyclist fall is a good time to wear a helmet. Motorcyclists hitting deer are very likely to fly off the bike or be hit in the head by the animal. Going off the road and flipping over or hitting something is more often the cause of human death than hitting the animals body, although the deer can really mess up your car.
If you hit a deer pull off the road and put on your emergency flashers.  Stay in the car, don’t try to move the deer out of the road or help it.  People are killed every year by other vehicles when they get out to move the deer or look at car damage. Call 911 and wait for the police to arrive before getting out of the car to look at the damage.  If their policy is not to come for non-injury accidents be very careful getting out of the car to look at damages.  Make sure to inform the police if the deer is in the road and might cause a traffic hazard.
Trying to help an injured deer is dangerous. They have sharp hooves and antlers that can seriously hurt you.  Tell the police if the animal is still alive and needs to be put down. While some people want to get the animal medical care it’s very unlikely it will do any good and it’s also unlikely any vet will take on the job.  Shooting the animal is a humane way to kill it but don’t do this yourself unless you ask permission from the police to do so.
Next call your insurance company.  Some require a police report for claims and others don’t, know your policy. If the carcass isn’t too damaged, it’s a shame to waste the meat.  In some states if you want the deer carcass the police can give you permission to take it, in other places the DNR has to give permission.  And in some states, it’s still illegal to pick up the carcass.  In some places people can let the police know they are interested in deer killed by traffic and the police will call them when there’s a report.
November comes
      And November goes,
      With the last red berries
      And the first white snows.
With night coming early,
      And dawn coming late,
      And ice in the bucket
      And frost by the gate.
The fires burn
      And the kettles sing,
      And earth sinks to rest
      Until next spring.
~Elizabeth Coatsworth (1893–1986)

Getting Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti to bloom
They’ll be everywhere this time of year, beautiful Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti in bud and bloom in every store.  They are an easy houseplant to keep alive, but many people wonder how they can get them to bloom again.  The trick is cooler nights and gradually shortening days.
The best way to give these cacti what they need to bloom is to give them a summer vacation outside.  They are a forest cacti, and need a shady area, putting them in the sun will burn them.  Bring them back inside before the first frost. The trip outside will generally have allowed enough naturally shortening daylight and cooler nights to start buds forming.  
If you cannot put your plant outside for the summer, move it to a window where the sunlight is not too hot and strong in the summer.  By late summer it should be getting cooler nights, about 55 degrees, and the same amount of light that is outside. You may want to cover it when it is dark outside or move it to a closet. Some people put them under a box at dusk. Once the buds have formed, they usually continue to develop despite getting light at night.  The plants need at least 6 weeks of cooler nights and diminishing day length to set buds. The ends of each branch should have a tiny bud by November if they are to bloom during the holiday periods.


The hardest thing for some people to manipulate is the temperature.  Sometimes just the cooler nights will start buds forming. It may not be cool enough naturally where you live to get the plants to bloom by Thanksgiving or even Christmas.  If you can’t stand turning the thermostat down at night you may also have a problem.  If you have an unheated room with a window this may be a solution.  Some people move them to the basement and use a grow light.
When the cacti have buds try not to move them to another location.  This will sometimes result in dropped buds. When you bring one home from the store make sure it’s protected from cold drafts on the way to the car.  Usually these cacti will continue to bloom even though they have been moved several times but occasionally they will drop their buds.  Don’t discard them- next year you’ll have lots of bloom if you treat them right.
For more information on growing Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti read this article.
If there's ice in November that will bear a duck,
There'll be nothing after but sludge and muck.
~English folk-lore rhyme, first printed c.1876

Growing Swiss Chard- Beta vulgaris
Chard is a close relative of beets. It’s a trendy vegetable that’s popping up everywhere.  If you have eaten beet greens or spinach you know about what chard tastes like. Swiss Chard is an excellent source of vitamins A, K and C and tasty cooked or raw. It can also be quite ornamental, with dark green crinkled leaves and stems with vivid colors such as red, pink, golden yellow and orange. It grows well in home gardens and is a good farm market crop.
Chard has clumps of dark green, wrinkled leaves are carried on long stalks that can be a number of vibrant colors in the variety ‘Bright Lights’ or deep ruby red in the variety known as ‘Rhubarb’.  The leaves are what most people eat although the stems are quite edible.

Planting Swiss chard
Gardeners can start with plants or direct sow the seeds.  Chard germinates in cool soil and prefers growing in cooler weather.  Some gardeners plant the seeds in fall and harvest in spring, in milder climates, zone 7+, it will overwinter with a light mulch.  Zone 8 gardeners will want to grow chard as a winter crop.  In zones 5-6 chard can be planted in late summer for a fall crop of greens. In zones 3-6 it can also be planted in early spring.
Sow seed in the garden when the soil reaches 50 degrees and hard freezes are not anticipated. Transplant plants you buy or start indoors outside after the danger of hard freezes has passed. Light frost generally doesn’t hurt plants. If colder weather arrives after planting a row cover will protect the chard.
Plant seeds a half inch deep and 3-4 inches apart.  Thin plants to about a foot apart.  A complete fertilizer can be applied lightly at planting to encourage foliage production. Keep chard well-watered to encourage good leafy growth.
In hot weather chard may bolt or go to seed. Hard frost on seedlings may also encourage bolting.  Bolting makes the leaves bitter and tough and if the plant sets seed it will die.  While cool weather prolongs a chard harvest eventually all plants will go to seed and should be pulled and discarded.
Chard has several insect pests, flea beetles, leaf miners, leaf hoppers and aphids can attack the plants.  Row cover anchored firmly to the ground can keep these pests away.  Neem oil and other pesticides registered for food crops can be used.
Leaf spot is a fungal disease that can infect chard.  There is little that can be done after it starts.  It starts as small, off white to tan circular spots on leaves with a red margin. Eventually the spots run together, and the area turns gray.  Technically the good parts of the leaf are still edible but it’s not practical to harvest the leaves. Gardeners can try cutting the plants back severely and burning or burying the infected leaves.  Sometimes one can get a new crop of leaves that aren’t infected from the plants.
Leaf spot is more prevalent in warm humid weather. To help prevent leaf spot don’t water late in the day, so plants are dry by nightfall. Keep the chard well weeded because some weeds can carry the disease. Space plants so there is good airflow and rotate the spot where chard is planted each year.
Harvest and storage
Chard can be harvested at any stage, from baby greens to mature leaves.  If leaves are harvested carefully when young new leaves will form on the plant.  Pull or cut the outer leaves off and don’t damage the young leaves in the center for multiple crops.
After harvest don’t wash the chard until just before it’s used.  Leaves can be kept for a few days by placing them in a zip close plastic bag and getting as much air out of the bag as possible.  Then store in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator.  If you like cooked chard you could can it for storage, following the directions for canning spinach.
One of the ways I like chard is to make chard “chips”.  Wash and dry the leaves and tear in smaller pieces. Spray the leaves with olive oil pan spray or toss with olive oil and dust the with fine sea salt. You can also dust them with garlic powder or chili powder. Spread them on a baking sheet and place in the oven at 275 degrees F.  Bake for 20 minutes then turn over and bake for another 20 minutes. Yummy and healthy.
In November, the smell of food is different. It is an orange smell. A squash and pumpkin smell. It tastes like cinnamon and can fill up a house in the morning, can pull everyone from bed in a fog. Food is better in November than any other time of the year.-  Cynthia Rylant

French Onion soup
I just bought 10 pounds of small yellow onions for $3.  I’m going to make up a big batch of French onion soup.  It’s delicious as a light winter meal and it’s also good to use in cooking. Try cooking a pot roast in it, yum.  The only bad part of this soup is slicing the onions. I make my soup in the crock pot but it’s easy on the stove top too. 
This soup uses the traditional thyme, but you can leave that out. You can also leave out the wine, sub ½ cup of water. Serve this soup with a loaf of homemade bread if you can.

Ingredients
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 cups of thinly sliced onions
½ cup red wine
2 -32 oz. cartons beef broth
½ teaspoon pepper
5-6 sprigs of fresh thyme or about a ½ teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
1 crushed garlic clove or ½ teaspoon garlic juice
Salt to taste – broth is usually salty so taste and add if needed
Cheese (usually swiss is preferred) and croutons for serving

Directions
Put the olive oil, butter, onions, thyme, pepper, bay leaves and wine in the bottom of a large crock pot.
Cook on high until the onions are soft and golden looking.  This can take an hour or more depending on your pot.
Add the beef broth and stir.  Cook at least an hour on high. Taste and add salt if needed. You can then turn the pot down to warm to hold soup until serving.
Most people add a handful of shredded cheese and some croutons to a bowl of this onion soup before serving.
Store left over soup in the refrigerator or freeze for long term storage.

How sad would be November if we had no knowledge of the spring! ~Edwin Way Teale, 
Kim Willis
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I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com