Tree staking

 Staking Trees- should you do it?

 

It’s the time of year when many trees are being planted so let’s talk about staking trees.  You see it all the time but it’s usually NOT a good cultural practice.  Many a tree has been killed by improper and unnecessary staking. This often comes from the wires or ropes tied around the trunk rubbing or cutting into the trunk and girdling it. But it can also come when the trunk snaps after the stakes are removed or the tree is tipped over when poor root systems fail in wet and windy weather.  Even when staking might be indicated the stakes are generally left on far too long.

When a tree moves in the wind it strengthens the trunk and root system just like movement strengthens the muscles of animals.  Trees that have strong trunks and root systems actually survive wind storms better than staked trees.  If you do stake a tree it should staked loosely, so that it will still be able to sway in the wind.

Most trees do not need to be staked when they are planted.  Small, immature trees almost never need staking.  Small is trees with less than a two-inch diameter trunk and less than 8 feet tall.  Dormant (trees without leaves), deciduous trees normally don’t need staking, even larger ones.  Larger evergreens and some large deciduous trees in full leaf that are planted in windy locations might need temporary staking until they reestablish a good root system.

Some dwarf ornamental trees, particularly those with umbrella or weeping forms may need staking the first season.  Some of the most fragile of these may need staking for a longer period of time.  Sometimes dwarf fruit trees that bear heavily may need propping or staking.  Let them grow without staking for the first few years when they aren’t bearing heavily. 

Sometimes a tree that has been uprooted on one side, or tipped over, by a severe storm can be pulled upright and staked to re-establish itself.  But if this has happened the growing area should be examined carefully to see if there is a reason the root system failed.  Often there is either a high-water table that keeps roots from going deeper, or some kind of hard barrier such as bedrock, concrete, or very compacted sub soil.  This must be corrected, or the staking of the tree won’t do any good.  Do not leave the stakes on a tree that’s been pulled upright for more than a year.

When a tree is staked it should not be made immobile.  The best stake systems involve rings around the trunk that are several inches wider than the trunk.  The support wires are tied to the rings.  Inside the ring the tree trunk will be able to move a little with the wind.

Conventional staking usually involves three stakes placed equal distances around the trunk and about 6-10 feet (sometimes further if the tree is large) out from the trunk. Ropes or wires are then run from the stake and around the tree trunk.  Make sure anything that goes around the trunk is padded so it doesn’t cut into the trunk or wear a bare spot on the bark.

All of the stakes and ropes or wires must be removed after one growing season. The biggest problem with staked trees is that no one removes the stakes for several years. Or if they remove the stakes, they leave the ropes or wires around the trunk.  Many times, the tie wires or ropes may have actually grown into the tree and girdled it.  These trees will probably die. 

If you stake a tree in one of the situations where it might be necessary, put a notation on your calendar to remove the stakes and wires 6 months from when you staked it.  That’s enough time in most situations for the tree to be able to stand on its own.  And while a tree is staked check where the wires or ropes touch the trunk every week or so to make sure the trunk is not being damaged by the ties.

Staking tree should only be done in some special circumstances as described above and not done every time a tree is planted.