June 16,
2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
Hello Gardeners
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| "Red" dutch iris |
Why is it
that January goes so slow and June goes so fast? Can you believe that the longest day is
almost here? June 21, next Sunday, (which
is also Father’s Day) is the summer equinox and after that the days slowly get
shorter. The sun will start to shift
south in the sky and the angle of its light will change. While you and I won’t consciously notice much
difference for a month or so, our bodies and all other living creatures bodies,
plant and animal, will notice and adjust their circadian rhythms and life
cycles. Life on earth is finely tuned to
the cycles of the sun.
The plants
are growing by leaps and bounds in this warm, wet weather. I can barely keep up with weeding- who am I
kidding- I am getting behind in weeding!
The roses are really beginning to put on a show, clematis are starting
to bloom and I have Dutch iris in bloom, one of the last of the spring bulbs to
bloom. Mock orange is blooming and the
elderberries are beginning to bloom. I
have wisteria blooming. I also have a
mum blooming- that poor thing lost its connection to the sun cycles I
think. It was one I had in a pot on the
patio until a hard freeze, I then brought it inside to bloom for a while, and
then it went dormant for a few weeks and resumed growing in March. I planted it outside in late April – and got
blooms in June!
I haven’t
seen any yet but keep an eye out for rose chafers and Japanese beetles. Ants have been very bad in my garden this
year. They don’t normally harm plants
but they can really make weeding unpleasant for the gardener, they bite me far
more than mosquitoes. Speaking of
mosquitoes this wet weather should make for abundant mosquitoes in a week or
two. Frequently dump out anything that
holds water and add either mosquito “dunks” or fish to ponds.
The pumpkins,
cukes and melons are loving the warm wet weather and beginning to vine. Peas are being harvested. Lettuce is growing well, but some lettuce and
spinach are bolting to seed. Unfortunately fungal diseases are beginning to
show up on tomato foliage. Keep tomatoes
off the ground, and remove branches and leaves that touch the ground. Pick off and dispose of any yellowed or
spotted leaves. Keep your plants weeded, some weeds transmit fungal disease. If you use fungicides you should begin
spraying now.
Potato
beetles are now out and about. They are small, long beetles with yellow
stripes. You can protect your potatoes
with spun row covers if you get it on before the beetles arrive. Handpick beetles or use a pesticide
otherwise. Potato beetles will also
attack eggplants.
Stop
harvesting asparagus and rhubarb now.
Strawberry
harvest is getting going and you should be able to find Michigan strawberries
at the farmer’s markets. The apple crop
looks reasonable this year and you may notice some normal fruit drop as some
apples thin out over abundant fruit. All
types of apples don’t naturally thin their fruit. You can also hand thin fruit on some trees at
this time. Just remove all the apples
except one from each fruit cluster.
Cherries will
be ripening soon and the tart cherry crop looks about normal. There will be fewer sweet cherries this
season. Grape vines should be blooming
around this time, but many vines are struggling back from winter kill and won’t
bloom this year. Raspberries are also beginning
to bloom.
Autumn Olive die off
I’ve noticed
this spring that there are a lot of dead and dying Autumn Olive shrubs. In my own pastures where many of these shrubs
sprang up after we sold our goats, there are dozens of dead shrubs. While many of you might be saying “What’s
wrong with that? That’s good news”- stop
and reconsider. Autumn Olive plants are
very pollinator friendly, bees and other pollinators love their nectar rich
flowers. Birds have gotten used to an
abundance of berries to feast on before migratory flights in the fall. Deer bed under them and eat the berries as
well as tender young growth. Their
nitrogen fixing roots give other trees a growth boost, speeding up the reclamation
of abandoned land.
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| Autumn Olive with berries |
Not much
research is being done to determine why the Autumn Olives are dying since they
are considered to be invasive plants. It’s
quite possible that the last two hard winters are the cause, because the plants
are at the edge of their hardiness zone.
Since a few plants are surviving, this may mean that the plants will evolve
through natural selection to become hardier. Russian Olive, a close relative of
Autumn Olive, gets a disease called Phomopsis elaeagni, which causes cankers
and kills the trees. Autumn Olive was
thought to be resistant but the disease may have evolved to attack them. Verticillium wilt may be another disease that’s
affecting them.
Whatever the
cause, I don’t consider it a victory for native species. Instead I worry that it will further damage
pollinator numbers and become a problem for wildlife species that had come to
appreciate Autumn Olive, at least in the short run. The plants that died may also come back from
the roots and rejuvenate if the next few winters are milder. It’s a reminder that nature is constantly
changing and adaptation is a virtue.
Non-native shrubs and trees not
harmful to nesting birds
One of the
favorite mantras of those that want to eliminate all non- native trees and
shrubs from the environment is that native birds and other wildlife can’t successfully
utilize these plants for breeding habitat.
While there is a lot of observational/ anecdotal evidence that this is not so, a new research
study confirms that birds are equally successful in nesting and raising young
in non-native species as they are using native ones.
Research
published in The Condor: Ornithological
Advances this month found that
birds in New York forests that were using non-native plants such as barberry,
Japanese honeysuckle, and multiflora rose were just as successful raising young
as birds that choose native plants for nesting.
Birds and other wildlife quickly adapt to non-native species and they
don’t miss native plants that may be displaced.
Having non-native plants in the environment may be less stressful to
wildlife than it is to people worrying about them.
Wild gathered foods, herbal teas and
medicines – what to consider before using them
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| Pokeweed shoots can be eaten but the berries are deadly. |
It’s the season
for gathering wild plants and experimenting with garden plants to make salads,
teas and medicinal products. Some people equate natural with safe, and that
isn’t necessarily so, as any poison control hotline can tell you. Every year we have serious illness and even
deaths attributed to people who are gathering foods from the wild or mixing up
herbal medicines from the garden.
Experimenting with wild foods and herbal medicines and teas can be fine-
if you keep some basic things in mind.
1.
Positive identification.
There are many extremely dangerous plants that look remarkably like harmless
and helpful plants. If you don’t
absolutely know what the plant is that you are considering consuming, don’t eat
it or put it on your body. Use good
reference books or take classes with experienced people until you are sure you
can identify plants you want to use. Even
using some plants on the skin can cause problems as some harmful plant
compounds can be absorbed through the skin.
This is more of a problem with wild gathered plants, but even garden
plants can be misidentified.
2.
Use the correct part of the plant and
know how to prepare it. In some plants the fruit may be harmless but
the leaves or roots deadly and vice versa.
For example ripe elderberry fruit is edible when cooked but other parts
of the plant can cause serious illness.
Tomato fruit is excellent eating, but other parts of the plant will make
you very sick. You can eat the shoots of
pokeberry plants if you boil them in water, discard the water and cook them a
second time (usually fried). But if you
eat the shoots raw or eat the berries of the plant you will get very sick and
possibly die. Before you consume any new
plants make sure you know what parts are considered safe to eat and how those
parts should be prepared.
3.
Realize that overdosing and side
effects can occur with medical plants. The medicinal compounds in wild or garden
gathered plants can vary greatly depending on where the plant is growing, what
soil nutrients are available, what the weather has been like and many other
factors. A dose that was safe from one
patch of gathered plants may not safe from another because certain chemicals in
the plant may have been enhanced by environmental conditions. The way that you prepare a medicinal plant
may concentrate its effects. An overdose
of some herbal medications can cause death or serious health problems and some
safe doses may be as small as a drop or two. All herbs and wild medicinal plants can have
side effects also, some serious or deadly. The most common side effects are
digestive, vomiting and diarrhea, but even those can be most unpleasant. Without a laboratory analysis it’s impossible
to determine the strength of herbal preparations. That’s why caution, careful measuring of doses
and lots of study and mentoring by experienced herbal practitioners are
important.
4.
If you use prescription or over the
counter medications you should consult with a doctor or pharmacist before using
wild plant or herbal remedies,
and even for pleasure teas using herbs.
Most medical professionals today have some knowledge of what drug
interactions can occur with wild/herbal medications and conventional
medications and can advise you. You don’t
want to find out that your birth control medication failed because you consumed
certain herbs or have heart failure or kidney damage. If one doctor or pharmacist seems to dismiss
all herbs as harmful or useless you can always consult a more up to date
one. There is good information on line
as to what herbs interact with what medications but start with a medical
professional.
5.
Start with small amounts and monitor
your reactions. Any herbal medication or edible plant can
cause an allergic reaction and some allergic reactions can be deadly. If you have many other allergies it’s
especially important to play it safe with new plant foods or herbs. For example
people who have “hay fever” or ragweed allergy often have an allergic reaction
to chamomile. Use one herb or new food
at a time so you can properly judge your body’s reaction to it. Using a mixture of herbs will make it hard to
decide what caused the reaction. You may
want to apply the herb/plant to your skin before consuming it as many plants
will cause an allergic reaction this way as well as when you consume them. If you have redness, rash or hives where you
apply the plant product, don’t consume it.
Wait for at least 2 hours after consuming a small amount of a new herb/plant
before consuming more. Most allergic
reactions will have occurred by then.
Shortness of breath, throat swelling, heart racing, red eyes, itching, vomiting,
diarrhea, hives or rash can be allergic symptoms. If you have any allergic symptoms, even minor
ones such as a rash, never consume a second dose as the second reaction could
be much worse. Get medical attention if
you have trouble breathing or other serious symptoms.
6.
Stick with modern medicine for some
problems. If you get a deep puncture wound no herbal
preparation can prevent tetanus. Get a tetanus
shot if you haven’t had one recently. If
you are having a heart attack or stroke don’t reach for the medicinal tea, go
to a hospital. While some herbal
medications may be helpful for serious problems like diabetes and high blood
pressure you should also consult with a doctor and consider modern
medicines. While many plants are being
studied to cure cancer, there are no herbal (or conventional) remedies known to
be totally effective yet. You may want
to use both spectrums of care with the advice of your doctor. Never stop taking conventional medications
for serious problems without consulting with your doctor and careful monitoring
of your condition on any new herbal remedy.
If you use a
little caution and common sense and do your research you can benefit from
natural remedies and enjoy nutritious, tasty treats from the wild, but just
because something grows wild or in your garden doesn’t mean it’s safe or right
for you. Never rely on just one source
of information (including this one) - study, research and safely experiment
until you find what’s right for you. And
don’t be the person that turns their back on all modern medications and treatments. People are living longer, healthier lives
because of modern medicine, and while we constantly hear of drugs that are
dangerous, overuse of things like antibiotics, and other modern medical
failures we shouldn’t assume that all modern drugs and medical treatments are
bad or useless.
Caryopteris- Beautiful In Blue
Do you like
the color blue in the garden? Blue Mist, Bluebeard, Blue Spirea, or
Caryopteris, whatever you want to call it, this delightful late summer bloomer
is a magnet for butterflies and a big asset in the late summer border. Caryopteris has true blue flowers and is
hardy, tough and easy to grow.
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| Caryopteris |
Caryopteris
makes a nice low shrub for bordering walks and is excellent in larger mixed
borders for late summer color. It is a
good plant for butterfly gardens, especially mixed with pink buddleia and
goldenrod. It can also be used as airy
blue filler in floral arrangements
Caryopteris
is a sub- shrub - it can die back to the ground each winter like an herbaceous
plant or in warmer climates it can grow as a woody shrub. Caryopteris leaves are generally silvery
green, although variegated and golden leaved varieties exist. The leaves are small and narrow, reminding
one of willow leaves. In some varieties they are serrated at the edges, on
others the edges are smooth and the leaf may be slightly lobed.
Caryopteris
flowers are generally blue, although pink forms exist. The flowers are carried on whorled spikes at
the end of stems. The long stamens stick
out of each flower and the petals of the flowers have tiny extensions, which
give the flower clusters a feathery appearance.
Butterflies and bees are very attracted to Caryopteris flowers. The flowers are said to have a slight scent.
Caryopteris
culture
Although it
will sometimes re-seed itself in the garden, seed for Caryopteris is seldom
offered to gardeners. Caryopteris is
generally purchased as a plant. Try to
buy a named variety rather than one just labeled Caryopteris or Blue Mist
Shrub, as named varieties usually have better shape and more flowers. Size of mature Caryopteris plants is about 3
foot by 3 foot.
Caryopteris
is one of the few shrubs that will bloom in light or part shade. They also do well in full sun. They are hardy from zone 9 to at least zone 5. In zone 5 Caryopteris may die back to the
ground but will make substantial growth and will bloom by late summer. Caryopteris blooms on new wood, so all
winter-damaged wood can be safely pruned off in early spring without losing the
flowers. In fact, Caryopteris often has
a better shape and looks fuller if it is cut back to about half its size each
spring, regardless of winter damage. Be
a little patient with them in the spring as they are often slow to leaf out.
Caryopteris
should be watered regularly but don’t fertilize unless your soil is quite
poor. Too much fertilizer makes more
leafy growth than flowers. They begin
blooming in late summer and continue blooming until a hard frost. Keeping the dead flowers trimmed off of
Caryopteris prolongs the bloom.
Choosing
Varieties
The
Caryopteris in our gardens are hybrids of several Asian species. They are generally referred to as Caryopteris
x clandenensis although there are some other species on the market. ‘Longwood Blue’ is one of the best sky
blue flowered varieties. It also has
nice silvery gray foliage. ‘First Choice’ is a deep blue with a
dense, compact growth habit. ‘Sunshine Blue’ has golden leaves and
deep blue flowers. It is a good choice
for warmer zones. ‘Summer Sorbet’ has
green leaves edged in gold and deep blue flowers. ‘Pink
Chablis’ is a Caryopteris with pink flowers. Caryopteris divaricata, ‘Snowflake’ is a species of Caryopteris
from the Himalayan Mountains. It is a
compact shrub, with slightly fuzzy green leaves edged in white. The flowers are blue, but shaped a bit
differently from other Caryopteris. The
leaves of this plant have an unpleasant smell.
Coleus for color
Shade
gardeners rely on foliage color more than flowers to provide color. For
continuous color in the shade nothing beats coleus. This easy to care for plant
with a wide range of foliage colors and leaf forms is a must for every shade
gardener. Coleus is good for bedding and containers. And coleus color doesn’t
have to end when cold weather comes because coleus makes an excellent
houseplant. Coleus are fine plants for
collectors, since there are hundreds of varieties on the market.
In Victorian
times coleus was known as Painted Nettles or Flame Nettles. Coleus has suffered
in this century from a confusion of name changes and misnamed plants. The
correct Latin name for most ornamental coleus is now Solenostemon
scutellarioides, although some other species of Solenostemon have been used to
produce newer hybrid varieties. To add to this, coleus is a plant that produces
new color variations constantly and different nurseries may have plants with
different names that are virtually indistinguishable.
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| Coleus 'Under the Sea Hermit Crab' |
Coleus plants
range in size from miniature varieties of about 6 inches to huge plants 4 foot
high. They are tender perennials and die in winters below zone 8 if left
outside. The leaves of coleus come in every color except blue, and just about
any combination of colors. Originally coleus leaves were broadly oval with
toothed edges; however there are now tiny, oval leaves, huge, broad leaves,
frilly scalloped leaves, lobed leaves, narrow ribbon like leaves and a number
of other leaf variations. A common color pattern is for coleus leaves to have a
band or row of dots of a contrasting color along the edges of the leaves, but
some leaves are solid colors or randomly splashed with color. The stems of
coleus are square and coleus plants do produce spikes of tiny flowers, usually
lavender, from time to time.
Coleus culture
Coleus is
easy to grow from seed or cuttings. Sow coleus seeds in a warm spot about 6 -8
weeks before the last frost in your area. Coleus seed needs light to germinate
so don’t cover the seeds, just press them lightly into the seed-starting
medium. The seeds usually germinate in about 10 days. Give the baby coleus
plants time to develop before you decide if they are colorful enough for you,
as the color changes with age. Seed grown coleus is somewhat variable, and if
you want a coleus plant looks exactly like one you admire, you can always take
a cutting. Coleus roots easily from tip cuttings, either in soil or water.
Coleus is
very cold sensitive, so don’t plant it outside until after your last frost. If
you want to bring plants inside for the winter bring them in before temperatures
go below 40 degrees. Inside, coleus needs a warm room and plenty of sunlight to
remain vigorous. If the plants get woody
indoors, start cuttings from young shoots, to keep the variety going.
Outside
coleus prefers shade, or partial shade. In Michigan, zone 5 and lower, coleus
is more vigorous and colorful in partial shade, rather than deep shade. Morning
or late evening sun, or bright, indirect light would be preferable to midday
sun but some sunlight will make the plants more colorful. Coleus will sometimes
adapt to sunnier conditions if the plant is kept continuously moist, but the
colors of the leaves may look different than a shade grown plant. Plant
breeders are working on varieties that will stand heat and sun. Coleus needs to
be regularly watered and it prefers a rich, loose soil that is neutral or
slightly alkaline.
For healthy,
vigorous plants with good color, fertilize coleus with a slow release
fertilizer when you plant it or about every other week using liquid fertilizer.
Coleus in the house for winter doesn’t need fertilizer from November to March,
when growth slows down. Provide good air circulation around indoor plants and
while the soil should be kept moist, don’t over water.
You can prune
and pinch back coleus to keep it within bounds. Many newer varieties don’t need
pinching or pruning to stay full looking, but if your coleus plant is looking
lanky, don’t be afraid to pinch it back. Unless you are trying to produce seed,
keep the flowering spikes of coleus pruned off. This allows the plant to put
more energy into foliage. When the plant is allowed to set seed it may decline
and die.
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| Purple and lime coleus |
Coleus plants
are short lived and won’t be around forever. If you have a variety you adore,
take cuttings from it on a regular basis and discard older plants when they
become woody. Cuttings will root in
water or potting soil. The biggest
problem that coleus plants have is with insects chewing holes in the leaves.
You can ignore the problem in a garden setting as it is seldom fatal, but if
you are growing coleus for show you may want to treat them with a systemic
insecticide. Inside coleus may suffer from whitefly, spider mites and mealy bugs,
and may need to be treated with insecticides, as there are no natural predators
inside. If spider mites are a problem try increasing the humidity around the
plants.
Choosing
varieties
There are
hundreds of named varieties of coleus. Some common mixtures include the Wizard
series, which has a variety of bright colors on compact plants, and the
Carefree series, which has a variety of colors with deeply lobed leaves. The
Solar series are plants that tolerate heat and sun. The Under the Seas® collection features a
number of pretty, mostly ruffled leaved
coleus varieties named after sea creatures.
‘Kong
Mosiacs’ have huge leaves mottled with colors, each leaf is different. ‘Alabama Sunset’ is a sun tolerant
variety in red and orange shades. ‘Black
Dragon’ has velvety, heavily crimped, almost black leaves marked with
scarlet. ‘Pineapple’ has pineapple
yellow leaves and burgundy leaf veins and stems. ‘Darth Vader’ is tall, with long, narrow leaves of purple with a
lime edge. ‘Tigerlily’ is a ruffled
blend of apricot and peach ‘Duckfoot’
has tiny, deeply lobed purple leaves on a 6-inch plant. ‘India Frills’ is a
tiny, purple-pink blend with a trailing habit.
Remember everyone you meet knows
something that you don’t.- Bill Nye
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share?
Post them here by emailing me.
Here’s a seed/plant
sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch. Now open.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
New - Garden
Day 2015, August 1, 2015, 8 a.m. - 4:15 p.m. Veterinary Medical Center / Plant
& Soil Sciences Bldg., MSU campus, East Lansing, MI
This is
MSU’s horticulture departments annual garden seminar. The public is welcome. Key note speaker is
Rick Darke, a widely published author, photographer, lecturer and consultant
focused on regional landscape design, planning, conservation, and enhancement. You
get a choice of 2 other classes and a closing speaker also.
Cost is
$85.60 for non-2015 Garden members prior to July 24, $95.60 on and after July
25th this includes lunch but not the evening reception.
Please
visit www.hrt.msu.edu/garden-day-2015/ for a full schedule, workshop
descriptions and more. Contact:
Jennifer Sweet, CMP, CTA, at 517-355-5191 ext. 1339 or hgardens@msu.edu.
New-
MSU Plant Trial Field Day, August 4, 2015, 8:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. 1066 Bogue
Street, Plant & Soil Sciences Bldg. (1st floor), East Lansing, MI 48824
Commercial
growers, landscapers and advanced gardeners are invited to this annual event to
learn about some of the superior new plants and how they perform in
mid-Michigan in the MSU Trial Gardens. Plant performance, ornamental
characters, and special needs of plants will be covered. We will also host
presentations on the most recent research on the development and spread of
impatiens downy mildew and up-to-date discussions on the evolving ethics of
American gardeners. For this important and timely topic, Entomologists and
Horticultural Extension Specialists will bring us up-to-date on the latest news
in pollinators, native insects, and pesticides such as neonicotinoids.
The
$42/person registration fee (by July 30) includes morning refreshments, lunch,
parking, trial booklet, and the program.
Contact: Jennifer Sweet,
hgardens@msu.edu
Back Track To Nature offers the
following programs to
inspire you and deepen your relationship with nature! In partnership with the
Lapeer Land Conservancy and Seven Ponds Nature Center these programs are a
perfect way for families and adults to enjoy the outdoors.
Change of the Season –
A Guided Nature Walk
Saturday,
June 27, 2015 9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to
5:30PM
Entrance
and parking is located across from 4090
Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan Join us for a guided nature walk on
the trials of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land
Conservancy property. Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides.
Dress for the weather. This is a walking tour on uneven terrain. No Admittance
fee. Groups of 5 or more please call 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to this
walk.
Learn in the Garden
Tour - Planting, Composting and Water Harvesting
Monday,
June 29, 2015 9:30AM to
11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
In this
tried and true garden tour you will learn basic techniques, of planting,
composting and water harvesting to promote sustainability and keep your own
garden growing in abundance. This farm and garden tour will be held at Three
Roods Farm at 4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville Michigan. Dress for the
weather. Class size is limited to 15, children 17 and under must be accompanied
by a registered adult. No admittance fee. Call 810-969-1023 to reserve your
spot.
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
