January 13,
2015 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis,
unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are
her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations
opinions.
Hi Gardeners
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| Photo : Chris Ewing |
I enjoyed the few days we had when I didn’t have to put
on 3 layers of clothes to go outside.
But I went back to many layers this morning and guess I will keep
bundling up for a few more days. But it does look like warmer days are coming
up shortly. It’s supposed to be nicer
this weekend. We have had more sunny
days, which makes things better even if its cold.
I have had a lot of birds at my feeders again this
week. I have found the best bird seed, the one that attracts many species
without a lot of waste is simply black oil sunflower. I throw out the discarded seeds from my
canary dishes for the juncos and a few others that prefer small seeds. But if you buy most bird seed mixes you get a
lot of junk feed like milo and cracked corn, that attracts mice and deer. And if your feeders seem to empty overnight
suspect the deer. They’ll empty them if
they can reach them. Make sure to keep a
suet cake or two out too, for the woodpeckers and a few others.
Keep a close eye on the houseplants and check for
insect pests, which appear about this time of year. I think the plants are
stressed from low humidity and it allows the insects like scale and red spider
mites to multiply faster. I found scale on my Meyer lemon tree so I sat there
last week and cleaned each leaf with a damp soapy cloth. It takes a while but doesn’t get pesticides
in the house. I may have missed some but
it will take a while for large populations to build up and harm the tree.
I have been reading a lot of Native American books and
I wanted to share some of what I learned about food and medicinal uses of native
trees and shrubs. I got a little too ambitious
so there will be a second part to this article next week. The first part is in this week’s
newsletter.
Philodendrons
Make Perfect Houseplants
One of the most common houseplants in America and one
of the most abused is the Philodendron.
Found in homes and offices across the country, it is often seen as a
straggly 15 foot vine with a few pale, heart shaped leaves near the end. But a properly grown and trained Heart Leaved
Philodendron is very attractive and it takes just a little care to make it look
nice.
The philodendrons come from the humid tropical
rainforests of South America and the West Indies. There are about 200 species but only a few are
grown as houseplants. Philodendron is poisonous if eaten. Keep them away from children and pets and
from livestock outside. The sap of
philodendron irritates the skin of some people.
Philodendrons make excellent houseplants because they
thrive on low light and enjoy the same room temperatures that we do. Indoors they appreciate bright light, but
prefer not to be grown in a sunny south or west window. Move them a few feet away from a south or
west window. North and east windows are usually fine. If the room lighting is
good philodendrons will do well on artificial light alone.
Philodendrons appreciate a light potting soil full of
organic matter. Keep the soil moist but
don’t let the pot become too wet, it should always drain well. Humidity helps keep philodendron lush and
healthy. They would love to live in the
bathroom or above the kitchen sink. Sitting the pot on a tray of water with
rocks or marble to raise the pot bottom above the water helps with humidity.
Philodendrons also need to be kept out of drafts and in
temperatures between 55- 80 degrees. All
philodendrons should have dead leaves picked off and leaves cleaned and dusted
from time to time. Fertilizer is
generally not needed. If the plant is
pale and slow growing, and the light seems good, then a little houseplant
fertilizer may be used.
Types
of philodendron
Heart Leaved Philodendrons, (P. scandens) have heart
shaped leaves on a vine-like stem. The leaves are bronze when young and mature
to dark glossy green. There are a few variegated varieties on the market, with
silver and white streaking. The vines of this philodendron can grow to
incredible lengths, but they are better looking when they are either trained to
a form or kept pinched to make the plant put out more stems and look fuller.
Heart Leaf philodendrons don’t need huge pots. But they do need someone to monitor the
condition of the soil in the pot. If
white or yellow deposits of mineral salts are seen on the top or the sides of
pots, the plant should be transplanted into clean potting soil.
Heart Leaf philodendrons need to be trained on a
trellis or form to keep them neat. When
the plants are as long as you want, the tips of each stem should be pinched
off. This makes them put out more
leaves, side branches and more stems. This should be done on a fairly frequent
basis. The pieces you pinch off may root
in water or potting soil so you can share plants.
If the plant still seems to be spindly and the leaves
are small and pale the light is probably too low. Move the plant closer to a window or closer
to artificial light or increase the light.
Often seen in offices and mall courtyards and growing
in the ground in the far south are the Tree Philodendron and a cousin, known as
the Split Leaf Philodendron. They are sometimes kept in the home if the
homeowner has lots of room. These can be extremely handsome plants if grown
correctly.
Tree Philodendrons don’t really resemble a tree. They have a thick reclining stem from which
huge 3 foot or longer leaves on long stalks pop up. The stems are sometimes propped up or
staked, but left alone the plant will become about 6 foot high and 8 or more
foot wide. The leaves of the Tree
Philodendron have deep irregular splits in them.
Tree philodendrons are easily confused with another
plant called the Split Leaf Philodendron, (Monstera deliciosa). It is also called the Swiss Cheese plant. It
looks and acts very much like the tree philodendrons but the huge leaves have
actual holes in them.
There are a few other philodendrons sometimes seen in
stores and nurseries. Elephant’s Ear
Philodendron (P. domesticum) has long, arrow shaped leaves that can grow to 2
foot long. There are several varieties
of the Red Leaved Philodendron, ( P. erubescens) offered, these vary in the
shade of red from reddish green to almost black. The leaves are lobed and split
and the plants grow like a tree philodendron.
Tree and Split Leaf philodendrons occasionally bloom. The
flower is a large spathe shape, like a large calla lily. It ranges in color from greenish white to
reddish. Some claim the flowers are mildly fragrant. The flowers can become a
cluster of reddish fruits on the end of a thick stem.
The larger philodendrons will need large pots and the
plants transplanted as they grow. They
often develop roots on the surface of the pot and along the stem. These are normal and do not necessarily mean
the plant needs to be re-potted.
Philodendrons need to be repotted when they are top heavy and tip the
pot over, when they dry out too quickly between watering, when salts build up
and when roots have filled the pot.
Potted philodendrons of the larger types may be moved
outside in Michigan and then back inside before a frost. Put them in the shade and don’t let them get
too dry. Be prepared to have a much
larger plant when you bring them indoors.
Bees
like stripes- why just choosing plant species for bee gardens may not be enough
If you are one of the people who plan gardens to
attract bees and other pollinators you need to think about the color and pattern on flowers,
the flowers scent and where you are planting rather than just the species of
flowers that you use. Many modern flower
varieties come in different colors and color patterns, shapes and scent ranges
than the natural species they were derived from and some of the varieties aren’t
very well liked by bees.
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| Markings bees like. |
Research with bees proves that the number one flower preference
is for flowers with lines pointing toward the nectar source, their second
preference is for flowers with bulls eye patterns,(contrasting color circles),
around the nectar source and third most liked flowers are those with other
patterns that mark a nectar source, some of which human eyes can’t detect, such
as spots that are visible in ultra violet light.
Usually the natural flower colors of the species were
adapted to attract the most pollinators.
When humans change the color or patterns on a flower through selective
breeding it may not be as attractive to bees.
There are a few cases though where human bred colors and markings are
more attractive to bees than the species naturally colored flower.
For example, crocus are one of the earliest flowers to
bloom in our gardens and very appealing to the hungry foraging bees in the
spring. If you want to attract bees plant lots of these tiny beauties. Most native species of crocus either have veins
in a darker color than the background flower petal color that point toward the
nectar, or they have a darker spot of color called a bulls eye around the
nectar source. They would be found
faster and preferred over crocus developed to be solid colored. There are dozens of other species of flowers
that have color or patterns developed for human appreciation that aren’t as
appealing to bees and other pollinators.
Doubling the number of flower petals also makes many
flowers less appealing to pollinators because it typically hides the pollen and
nectar source. When you change the shape
of the flower from its natural position such as from downward facing to upward
facing, or closed tube to splayed open, you also change the way pollinators are
attracted to the flower. If a plant has a strong scent in its natural state it
developed the scent to attract pollinators.
Breeding plants with flowers that have less scent makes them less
appealing to pollinators.
Another thing to keep in mind when planting flowers to
attract pollinators is the background against which the flowers will be
displayed. Researchers found that bees
and other pollinators found flowers that contrasted strongly with their
surroundings more appealing than those flowers that blended with the
background. For example planting white
flowers against a white fence won’t attract as many pollinators as red flowers
planted against the white fence. If
plants have dark foliage they should have bright, light flowers for best bee
visibility. If the plants have been
developed to have pale foliage dark flowers would work better for the bees. Colorful flowers work best for daytime
pollinators against a background of green foliage, but night pollinators prefer
white or pale flowers.
In short if you are planning a garden to attract and
help pollinator’s, choose plant species that are known to be attractive to them
but also choose varieties of those plants that are closest to the natural
color, shape and scent of the original species.
You should also plan for color contrast of flowers with their
background.
Eating and medicating with native
trees and shrubs Part 1
In winter the
natural landscape often seems devoid of plants that could sustain or heal you
in a survival situation but indigenous people knew that the trees around them
could provide many things even in winter.
In the warm seasons of the year trees and shrubs provided many important
foods and medicines. While you may look
around your landscape at the pines, oaks, and other native woody plants and not
know all the uses they have, indigenous people were always aware of the benefits
nature could provide. When Europeans
brought plant species that naturalized in the new world, curious and
resourceful native people found new uses for them too.
Today I am
going to discuss some native North American trees and the food and medicinal
uses that they have. Because of space
and time limitations my descriptions will be brief but if you are interested
you can research them further. More trees
and shrubs will be discussed next week.
Maples
Almost
everyone knows maple trees produce some very sweet food, maple syrup and maple
sugar. While there are species of maples
native to Europe and Asia, only North Americans made maple syrup or sugar from
their sap. It may be because the maples
here, sugar maples and red maples in particular, have a higher concentration of
sugar in their sap or it may be that our climate has weather more suited to a
concentrated sap “run” in the early spring.
In the spring when days go a little above freezing and are sunny, but the nights fall back below freezing is the time when maple trees are tapped for their sap. Once the trees bud the sap loses much of its sugar content. Any species of maple can be used for syrup, including Box Elder trees, which are in the maple family. The sap is boiled to concentrate it and reduce the water content, making a syrup, and it can be boiled until it becomes a granular sugar also.
Indigenous people in the North Eastern
woodlands of North America were making maple syrup and sugar hundreds of years
before Europeans arrived. Tribes often
claimed areas of land where maples were plentiful and moved there to camp when
someone decided the sap was ready to harvest.
After a winter when food was often scarce and bland the time of maple
sugar harvest was a cause for celebration as well as hard work. Before Europeans introduced the honey bee to
the Americas, maple sugar was the best source of sugar for native people and
they harvested as much as they could each spring.
Native Americans
did use some maple syrup in the spring for cooking and for making candy but
most sap was boiled down to sugar because it kept better in this form and was
easier to store. The sugar was used all
year to cook with, to hide the taste of bitter medicines, to make sweetened
drinks, and to trade with tribes who did not have much access to maples. Maple
sap was sometimes blended with the sap of other trees for special uses.
Native
Americans believed that consuming maple syrup and sugar was good for their
health and modern research has confirmed that.
There are at least 20 beneficial phenolics, phytohormones and other anti-oxidant
compounds in maple sap, they are especially beneficial when they are
concentrated into syrup. Modern research is testing some of those compounds for
anti- cancer, anti-bacterial and surprisingly, anti-diabetic properties. Maple syrup is also high in zinc, thiamine
and calcium.
But Native
Americans knew of other uses for the maple also. Dried inner bark of maples was used to make
an eye wash for sore eyes. Maple sap was
drunk at many times of the year if water was scarce. After Europeans introduced native people to
iron pots, the native people discovered that boiling the bark of maples, white
oaks and Eastern hemlock together in those pots would remove rust from the
pots.
Birch
There are
many types of native birches, sweet birch Betula
lenta is most commonly harvested for food and medicinal use but other
species can be used.
Birch trees
were also tapped for syrup; this was done even in some northern European
countries in ancient times. Birch sap
was often allowed to ferment into a type of beer. Birch sap contains potassium,
calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, phosphorous, iron, sodium, and amino
acids. It is also rich in vitamin C and B-vitamins like thiamine. Xylitol, a
type of sugar currently used in
However
birch has many uses in both modern and ancient times for almost every part of
the tree. Most of us know Native
Americans used birch bark for canoes, and that it can be used in place of
paper. Native people fashioned the bark into containers also. But birch bark and twigs contains oil that has
properties almost identical to wintergreen oil and most commercial ‘wintergreen
oil” is now derived from birch bark. The
oil distilled from birch bark was commonly known as Birch Tar and is still used
used for a variety of skin problems, eczema, rashes, dandruff and scalp
problems, sores, and for rubbing on sore, stiff joints.
Native
Americans chewed on birch twigs to ease stomach cramps, diarrhea and
indigestion. Leaves, buds and twigs of
birch are steeped into a tea for their diuretic properties and used for urinary
tract infections, kidney stones and to reduce edema. Birch tea is also mildly
sedative. Externally a birch tea was also
used for skin problems and was pored through the hair to strengthen it. Tea steeped from leaves and twigs contains a
compound known as betulinic acid. Modern research is testing this acid for
actinic keratosis, a skin
problem, anti - cancer properties,
particularly for melanoma, bladder and kidney cancers, and for treating AIDS.
Black Walnuts
Black
walnuts produce an edible nut that while hard to harvest is quite tasty. Native American collected and stored the nuts
for eating fresh and cooking. Unripe
nuts were made into fermented, catsup-like sauce. Black walnut trees can also
be tapped for syrup and that syrup flow is generally later than maple and birch
sap flow.
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| Black Walnuts in husk. |
Most
medicinal uses of black walnut come from the green outer husks of the nut. Occasionally
leaves are also steeped for tea. Walnut
husks were collected and dried by Native Americans for later medicinal use. Teas or tinctures were made from the dried
powdered husks or by steeping green husks.
The husks contain tannins which have astringent and antiseptic
properties. Black walnut tea is a mild laxative, said to not make people nauseous
or cause cramps. The tea was used to expel worms, as a gargle to heal sore
throats and dry up mucous, externally to reduce pain and swelling, and for the
treatment of syphilis, diphtheria and leukemia. A tincture made from black walnut
hulls, wormwood, and cloves is an old remedy for cancer. (There is no current
medical research using walnut husks as treatment for those diseases.)
Mixed with
fat of some type, powdered walnut husks were used in all sorts of treatments
for skin conditions such as scabies, ringworm and infections both in human and
veterinary medicine.
Black
walnut husk tea was used to darken hair and cover gray hair. It can be used to stain things or as an ink
substitute.
Beechnut
Beechnuts
were once common across Eastern North America and they were very important to
Native Americans and to wildlife. They
are not common anymore but if you have the chance and the room, try planting a
few of these useful trees. They grow
best on fertile loam soils, and early pioneers looked for them when choosing
farmland. Beech trees produce tiny brown
nuts that are a favorite of mice, chipmunks and many birds, they were said to
be a favorite of the extinct passenger pigeon.
Native Americans preferred to raid the caches of tiny animals rather
than collect the nuts themselves.
Beechnuts
were boiled to rid them of some tannins, then roasted and pounded into flour by
Native Americans. The flour was used to
produce ” breads” and to thicken soups. The roasted nuts were also used to brew
a rich drink. Even to the mid- nineteenth century roasted ground beechnuts were
found on grocery store shelves as a tasty substitute for coffee. Powdered nuts were also used for headaches and
epilepsy.
Raw beech
nuts can be pressed to produce an oil and this oil had many uses. It was used to expel worms when taken
internally, mixed with fat to make a mosquito repellent and used on the skin to
heal poison ivy rash, frostbite, burns and ulcers. Early pioneers used beech oil in their oil
lamps.
Other parts
of the beech tree such as bark, leaves and root pieces are made into teas and
infusions. Beech teas were used for lung
complaints such as TB, as was the sap of beech trees. A TB cure using beech sap
persisted well into the 1900’s. Beech
teas in concentrated forms were used to cause abortions. Milder teas were used for diabetes, stomach
ulcers and chronic diarrhea. Teas and
infusions were used externally for burns, rashes, frostbite and other skin
problems.
Willow
When people
think of willows they often picture weeping willows, which is an introduced
species or the brushy Pussy willows that grow in wet land. Those willows do share many qualities with
the Black willow, a large tree willow native to the Northern US, and a tree
that was important to Native American cultures.
Willows
were of course woven into baskets and mats and willow saplings were often woven
into fences surrounding Native American food crops. Willows also had very important medicinal
qualities too. Willow bark, roots and twigs contain salicin-which is the
compound modern aspirin is derived from.
Teas made from twigs or powdered roots and bark were used to treat pain, inflammation and fevers. In an emergency
situation you can brew a tea of willow twigs and get some relief from pain and
fever. Modern research has found that
willow bark contains called polyphenols and flavonoids, as well as salicin,
that have antioxidant, fever reducing, antiseptic, and immune boosting
properties.
The bark of
willows was burned in sweat lodges of Native Americans to relieve arthritic pain. Poultices of willow tea are used for joint
pain, or painful skin conditions. Native
Americans and some people today believe that drinking willow tea helps weight
loss. Pregnant women should not use
willow tea or other willow products because it can cause increased bleeding at
birth.
Basswood or Linden
When the
French explored around Detroit they found a lot of these beautiful, white
wooded trees and named the Island Bois Blanc after them. This is another tree that has disappeared
from landscapes that should be planted more often. When honey bees were introduced to the
Americas they found the blossoms of these trees delightfully good for making
honey. Basswood also carries the
puzzling common name of lime tree, it is not a citrus relative.
The
beautiful sweet smelling flowers were made into tea by Native Americans just
for its delightful taste. In folk
medicine tea from the flowers is used for colds, headaches, high blood
pressure, and as a mild sedative.
However some herbalists warn that too much basswood flower tea may cause
heart problems. The flowers are also
infused for perfume.
A tea made
from powdered Basswood bark was mixed with cornmeal and put on infected wounds
as a poultice. This bark tea was also
drunk to cure diarrhea. A tea of
Basswood leaves was used to wash infected eyes.
Basswood
wood is burned into charcoal and this charcoal was used to treat gall bladder
problems, and in external ointments for cellulitis and skin ulcers. The wood is also known for making great
guitars. Native Americans soaked Basswood bark and then extracted strong fibers
from it for various uses.
Next week I’ll
discuss oaks, sassafras, sumac, hickory, juniper, pine, and spruce.
Answers to last week’s Quiz
1.Lettuce
2. Tomatoes 3. Root,4. Fennel, 4. Cilantro 5. 6. St.Johns Wort
7. Fruit
8.Blackberry 9. Quince 10. Mint or
spearmint 11. Beans 12. Root
I was going
to do a flower quiz this week but I ran out of time. Look for it next week.
Enjoy the sun but wear your mittens!
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
More Information
Witch Hazel
Prepared
by George M. Dickert, Horticulture Extension Agent, Spartanburg County, Clemson
University, 04/12. HGIC 1091
Kim’s
note: This has been edited slightly for length.
Witch
hazels (Hamamelis spp.) are large shrubs that have several
desirable attributes, and offer year-round interest in the landscape. Three
species have their origins in North America (H. virginiana, H.
vernalis and H. ovalis), and one each in China (H.
mollis) and in Japan (H. japonica). With regard to availability of
these plants to gardeners, there are four species that are generally grown by
the nursery trade, and an ever-increasing number of cultivars. These are the
Chinese witch hazel, the interspecific hybrid Hamamelis x
intermedia, and the two North American natives - the common (or American)
witch hazel and the vernal witch hazel.
The
botanical name, Hamamelis, translates to “together with fruit”,
which refers to the fact that the fruit and flowers occur on the same plant at
the same time. This is a very unique feature of native North American trees.
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| Witch hazel flowers. commons.wikimedia.com |
One can
find H. virginiana, or common witch hazel, growing in the wild from Nova Scotia
south to central Florida, and west to Minnesota in the north and Texas in the
south. In South Carolina, its native range extends over three quarters of the
counties throughout the state across all four physiographic regions (Mountains,
Piedmont, Sandhills and Coastal Plain). Vernal witch hazel, or Ozark witch
hazel, is more Midwest in its range, which extends from Missouri and Arkansas
southwest into Oklahoma and Texas.
However,
most gardeners have turned their attention to the use of Chinese species (H.
mollis) or the hybrid between the Chinese and Japanese species (H. x
intermedia) for their superior ornamental attributes such as durable summer
foliage, beautiful fall color, pleasant fragrance and bright flowers in late
winter to early spring. These plants make beautiful, relatively care-free
additions to landscapes, and deserve more attention.
In addition
to its ornamental attributes, witch hazel has several medicinal properties
including use as an astringent and an anti-inflammatory. In fact, it is one of
the very few American medicinal plants approved as an ingredient in
non-prescription drugs by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
Mature
Height/Spread
Witch
hazels are generally considered large shrubs, or in some instances small trees.
The ultimate or mature size is largely dependent upon the species or cultivar
selected, and the growing environment in which it is sited. Common witch hazel
(H. virginiana) can reach heights of 25 feet in the wild. Vernal witch hazel
(H. vernalis) is generally of smaller stature, maturing at a height of 6 to 10
feet. Hybrid witch hazels (H. x intermedia) are also generally smaller statured
than common witch hazel, and can be reasonably expected to attain heights of 8
to 15 feet with a nearly equal spread. Plants are typically upright-spreading
and rather loosely branched. The somewhat zigzagging branches offer interesting
form, and its upright nature lends itself to an opportunity for under-planting
with bulbs or small perennials.
Growth Rate
Witch
hazels are generally considered to be slow growing. However, the hybrid witch
hazel does display greater vigor than that of either parent species. One could
reasonably expect annual growth of 4-12 inches under suitable environmental
conditions.
Ornamental
Features & Landscape Uses
As
mentioned previously, witch hazels make beautiful, relatively problem-free
additions to landscapes. They also offer the gardener an interesting and unique
plant that truly adds to a four-season landscape. Witch hazels, depending upon
the species and/or cultivar, flower during the time of year when most plants
are dormant and waiting for warmer weather.
The common
witch hazel (H. virginiana) is noted for good fall color which is usually
bright yellow. The flowers form from groups of three or four stalked buds which
open from October to December. The perfect flowers are yellow, slightly
fragrant and consist of four narrow, strap-like petals up to 5/8 inch long that
resemble the flowers of Loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense), which is also a
member of the witch hazel family (Hamamelidaceae). It is a valuable shrub for
the naturalized border, under the tall canopy of mature shade trees, although
it will tolerate full sun in moist soils. There have been some garden-worthy
selections made, but they may be more difficult to find in the trade as opposed
to the Asian species and hybrids. It is cold hardy to Zone 3. Common witch
hazel is the preferred rootstock for grafted cultivars of Asian origin.
The vernal
witch hazel (H. vernalis) is similar to the common witch hazel except that its
features are generally smaller. The most significant difference between these
native species is flowering time, which is usually late winter/early spring. In
South Carolina, it would be reasonable to expect flowering in January. New
growth is bronze to reddish purple, and changes to medium-dark green in summer.
The fall color is somewhat variable, but is described in literature as being an
outstanding clear yellow that develops late. The flowers consist of four yellow
strap-like petals with a darker orange to red calyx at the base. There is some
variability in the coloration of the petals, which has led to a few selections
being made, such as ‘Red Imp’, with petals ranging from copper-red to maroon.
Another interesting cultivar worth mentioning is ‘Tim’s Purple’, with
purple-red flower petals. While vernal witch hazel offers more variety for the
garden than the common witch hazel, it is also more difficult to find in the
trade than the Asian species and hybrids. It is recommended for light shade,
but will tolerate full sun if sited in moist, rich soil. It will tolerate soils
of higher pH than the other species and is hardy to Zone 4.
The Chinese
witch hazel (H. mollis) is a garden standout, noted for its larger yellow
flowers and stronger fragrance. It tends to flower later than the vernal
species, typically in February-March for Zone 7 of Upstate South Carolina. This
species can be used in a shrub border or as a specimen in the woodland garden.
It would make a nice substitute for the ubiquitous forsythia. The cultivar
‘Goldcrest’ is one of the best selections available. It is noted for its
consistently spectacular flowers of rich golden yellow with wider, more
prominent petals than the species. The sweet fragrance in February is very
desirable. The growth habit is wide-spreading with an ultimate height of 8 to
10 feet. Other cultivars that deserve attention are ‘Princeton Gold’ and
‘Superba’, which is suspected to be a hybrid between H. mollis and H. vernalis.
‘Superba’ is noted for flowering in December, with petals that are orange at
the tips and red at the base. Ultimate height is reported to be 9 to 10 feet
with equal or larger spread. This species is hardy to Zone 5.
The hybrid
witch hazels, Hamamelis x intermedia, are interspecific crosses between H.
mollis and H. japonica, and they exhibit intermediate attributes of each parent
species. They display hybrid vigor, and may reach a mature height of 15 feet.
They can be expected to flower from January through March, and offer the
gardener color and fragrance in the dreariest of seasons. The flower colors
range from yellows and oranges to red. It should be noted that in general, the
red-flowered cultivars typically exhibit more red fall coloration, and the
yellow-flowered cultivars exhibit yellowish fall coloration. There are many
reported cultivars of this hybrid, and a handful of them have become somewhat
common in the nursery trade and therefore available to gardeners. They are most
adaptable in Zones 5 through 8.
Witch
hazels, regardless of species or cultivar, thrive in moist, rich, well-drained,
slightly acidic soils. These shrubs can tolerate shade, but flower displays
improve with increasing sunlight. Most prefer light shade to full sun. They are
moderately resistant to drought once established. Due to their spreading growth
habit, they may need to be occasionally pruned to maintain an upright form, or
to allow for clearance beneath the canopy.
The common
witch hazel (H. virginiana) is especially prone to suckering as it colonizes,
and these suckers should be removed to maintain a tidy appearance if so
desired. It should also be noted that cultivars of hybrid witch hazel (H. x
intermedia), which are grafted onto common witch hazel rootstock, can sucker
from the base below the graft union, so it is important to remove these suckers
as they emerge to avoid losing the desirable scion selection. With a little bit
of care following these tips, witch hazel can surely fill the “missing link” of
a four-season garden in South Carolina, and deliver color and fragrance to the
winter landscape.
Propagation
Propagation
of witch hazels is usually accomplished by seed for the species, while named
cultivars are typically rooted from stem cuttings or grafted. Propagation by
cuttings is possible using firm wood in late summer. The cuttings should be
treated with 1.0% IBA and stuck in a well-drained peat:perlite mix under mist.
Keep root disturbance to a minimum The advantage of rooting cultivars from
cuttings is that one does not have to worry about the rootstock’s tendency to
sucker and possibly overtake the scion. The seeds are found in two-valved
dehiscent capsules that ripen in mid to late fall. Seed should be collected in late summer or
early fall before the capsules turn brown, ripen and eject the seed. The seed
can actually eject from the capsule up to 30 feet, so it is advised to place
the collected seed in a closed container.
Refrigerated seed that is kept dry can be stored up to one year. Because
seeds have physiological dormancy, they must be given alternating warm and cold
treatments. This can be done naturally by harvesting seed in late summer and
planting in an outdoor seedbed. Germination (sprouting) occurs the second
spring if not given a pre-treatment of 3 months cold followed by 3 months of
warm stratifica Problems
Witch
hazels are relatively problem-free additions to the landscape. There are a
couple of insects associated with the witch hazel, but none are serious. There
is a cone gall aphid (Hormaphis hamamelidis) that can cause unsightly galls on
the leaves, but are usually not a significant problem. There is also a spiny
leaf gall aphid (Hamamelistes spinosus), that can cause some unsightly spiny
galls on the foliage. For more information on this insect see http://www.clemson.edu/cafls/departments/esps/factsheets/turforn/river_birch_aphid_to17.html.
The most
prevalent disease associated with vernal witch hazel is powdery mildew, but is
not a significant problem in most instances.
This
information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is
intended and no endorsement of brand names or registered trademarks by the
Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied, nor is any
discrimination intended by the exclusion of products or manufacturers not
named. All recommendations are for South Carolina conditions and may not apply
to other areas. Use pesticides only according to the directions on the label.
All recommendations for pesticide use are for South Carolina only and were
legal at the time of publication, but the status of registration and use
patterns are subject to change by action of state and federal regulatory
agencies. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed.
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share?
Post them here by emailing me. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
New- 28th ANNUAL MICHIGAN
WILDFLOWER CONFERENCE- Sunday March 8 and Monday March 9, 2015- Kellogg Hotel & Conference Center , MSU
campus, East Lansing MI.
Landscape Design:
Where Art and Nature Meet. For full
agenda please see http://wildflowersmich.org/
Pre- registration at http://wildflowersmich.org/assets/docs/15_reg_form.pdf
$65 for one day, $120
for both until 2/25/2015, after that $75 and $140. WAM membership required, add $15. Laura Liebler, Registrar Phone:
734.662.2206
MSU offered a variety of on line
seminars for those who were interested in beginning farming topics of various
types. Some of those are now available
free to watch at the address below.
Gardeners may be interested in topics like organic pest control. Get the list of topics and links here.
Dow Gardens winter beekeeping series at Dow
Gardens, 1809 Eastman
Avenue, Midland, MI
Discover
the amazing world of honey bees and beekeeping in this 3-part winter
series. Spots are limited! Call (989)
631-2677 to register or email entomologist Elly Maxwell maxwell@dowgardens.org
with questions.
January
8, 6-8PM Tales of a First Year Beekeeper
So
you’re thinking about keeping bees? We’ve gathered a panel of our favorite
rookie beekeepers to have a candid discussion about their experiences.
Moderated by Dow Gardens’ entomologist Elly Maxwell, this question-and-answer
style class will help you decide if beekeeping is for you, educate you on the
equipment you’ll need to get started, and spark interest in a rewarding hobby.
Free Class.
January
24, 2015 10-2PM. Hive Building Workshop
Beekeeping
is not just science, but art. Dan Keane will share his carpentry expertise with
techniques on best assembling a 2-story hive from a kit. Come with 2 hammers
(one heavy and one light) and leave with an assembled hive ready to be painted
and placed outdoors. 10-frame or 8-frame option. Cost of equipment $150.00.
Sign up deadline: January 16, 2015
February
12, 6-8PM Snelgrove Board and Advanced Frame Workshop
At Dow
Gardens, we use the Snelgrove method to manage our hives in the spring. The
Snelgrove method was designed to prevent strong hives from swarming, to cull
old frames, make splits, to replace mature queens, and other benefits. Join us
in this workshop to construct a Snelgrove board and learn the technique.
Additionally, we’ll explore the option of harvesting comb honey from your hive.
Cost of equipment $25, per board. Signup deadline: February 2, 2015
E-mail
Elly at maxwell@dowgardens.org for more details. Call 989-631-2677 to signup.
Dow Know and Grow Seminar February 21, 2015
Bullock Creek High School, 1420
Badour Rd. Midland, MI
This
seminar consists of 3 classes, “Creating
Your Perennial Plant Community:The Know Maintenance Approach”, “Living Soil: How it Works”, and “Year-Round
Vegetable Gardening”. There will be a
vendor’s area. Lunch is included. The early registration fee is $60.00. Registration
after February 6, 2015 is $75.00.
To
REGISTER BY PHONE call Dow Gardens at 631-2677 or 1-800-362-4874. Please have
your credit card information ready.
To
REGISTER BY MAIL send the form in this brochure with a check or credit card information
to: Dow Gardens, 1018 W. Main St., Midland, MI 48
To look
at a brochure, get more information and register on line please use this link.
Conifer Propagation Seminar at Hidden Lake
Gardens, March 7, 2015 – 9am – 4pm, 6214 Monroe Road (M-50),Tipton, MI
Join us
as we share what we know about some of the rare plants of the Harper Collection
of Dwarf and Rare Conifers. Now condensed into one day!
Learn
the art and science of making more conifers (cone-bearing plants). Staff and
volunteers will share their extensive knowledge and experience on the nuances
of propagation. Seminar includes:
Hands-on
grafting of 6 different plants*
Cuttings
of at least 16 plants*
Lunch,
and
Tour of
Harper Collection or propagation facility
*
Species will likely include Thuja, Juniperus, Pinus, Picea, and Abies.
Extensive care instructions provided.
Designed
for the beginning propagator, this seminar will share techniques even
experienced propagators will appreciate. Advance registration is required, but
experience is not.
Cost:
$100 per person early registration ($90 per person for Friends of HLG) $125 per
person after Feb 21. Registration is limited and will close on March 1st.
Registration is required. Hidden Lake Gardens - www.HiddenLakeGardens.msu.edu (517)
431-2060
Indoor
Succulent Gardens- a class and make it and take it workshop
Saturday, Jan 17, 2015, At all locations of English Gardens. See below.
The class at 1 pm is free and discusses varieties of
succulents and how to care for them. The
workshop begins at 2:30 pm and requires a $24.99 fee. You’ll make a mixed container of succulents
that you take home.
Sign up in-store or on-line: www.EnglishGardens.com.
Locations: Ann Arbor, Maple Village
Shopping Center, 155 N. Maple Rd., Ann Arbor, Phone: (734) 332-7900, Clinton
Township, 44850 Garfield Rd. at Hall Rd., Clinton Twp., MI, Phone: (586)
286-6100, Dearborn Heights, 22650 Ford Rd., Dearborn Heights, MI Nursery: (313) 278-4433, Eastpointe, 22501
Kelly Rd., Eastpointe, MI, Phone: (586) 771-4200, Royal Oak, 4901 Coolidge Hwy,
Royal Oak, MI , Phone: (248) 280-9500, West Bloomfield, 6370 Orchard Lake Rd.,
West Bloomfield, MI, Phone: (248) 851-7506
Introduction
to Unusual Houseplants, January 24th , 2015, 1 pm
at all English Garden Nurseries. See
locations below.
Learn about some unusual houseplants and how to care
for them at this free class.
Sign up in-store or on-line: www.EnglishGardens.com.
Locations: Ann Arbor, Maple Village
Shopping Center, 155 N. Maple Rd., Ann Arbor, Phone: (734) 332-7900, Clinton
Township, 44850 Garfield Rd. at Hall Rd., Clinton Twp., MI, Phone: (586)
286-6100, Dearborn Heights, 22650 Ford Rd., Dearborn Heights, MI Nursery: (313) 278-4433, Eastpointe, 22501
Kelly Rd., Eastpointe, MI, Phone: (586) 771-4200, Royal Oak, 4901 Coolidge Hwy,
Royal Oak, MI , Phone: (248) 280-9500, West Bloomfield, 6370 Orchard Lake Rd.,
West Bloomfield, MI, Phone: (248) 851-7506
Made
in Michigan Sunday, January 25, 2:00 pm SEVEN
PONDS NATURE CENTER- 3854 Crawford Road Dryden, MI (810) 796-3200
Farming has been the second largest industry in
Michigan for many years. We will discuss many topics from, but not limited to,
organic farming to composting and recycling. This will be a unique program
featuring live goats, chickens, doves, geese, and more as we discuss farming in
Michigan. This will be fun for all ages.
Speaker-Dynamic West. Free to members, $3 non-members.
Signs
of Insects -Sunday, February 1, 2:00 pm SEVEN
PONDS NATURE CENTER- 3854 Crawford Road Dryden, MI (810) 796-3200
Insects of all sorts leave signs that they are
building, chewing, crawling, and “having families” around us. Join Naturalist
Nancy Kautz for a closer look at a variety of shelters, galls, eggs and webs
that might be found in your backyard. Free to members, $3 non-members.
Admission is $12 for adults, $9 for students and
seniors, $6 for ages 5-13, $4 for ages 3-4 and free for museum members and kids
2 and younger. Check out the entire schedule of holiday events at www.meijergardens.org.
Capital Area Master
Gardeners - Mixing It Up Garden
symposium - January 31, 2015, 8:15-4 pm.
MSU Plant and Soil Sciences Building ,1066 Bogue Street
East Lansing, MI.
This symposium features a variety of
garden classes to lighten the winter blahs.
Registration fee includes lunch.
A garden marketplace will be available for shoppers. Fees are $35 for
local club members, $45 for other Master Gardeners, $55 for all others.
To get a description of classes and
register online go to: https://mgacac.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/brochure2014_11-14.pdf
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the
opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or
business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I
love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my
research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture.
It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to
receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to
receive these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
