Tuesday, November 4, 2014

November 4, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

November 4, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Barberry in fall color.
It’s a gray and gloomy day but we could have worse.  We could be digging out from a big snowstorm as many people farther south and on the East Coast are doing.  Yesterday was pretty mild and I finally dug up my dahlias and glads.  I think my garden chores are about done for the year, although I was just notified that my back ordered bulbs have been shipped.  

Looking out my office window I see a house finch is hiding under the roof of the bird feeder to escape the wind and drizzle.  He’s not eating just sitting there. He's been there for hours but he seems perky enough.  He may be watching me through the window.  My parakeets are in that window and I think he sees them too.  I think the robins have finally flown south and maybe the turkey vultures too.  Yesterday I saw a flock of seagulls in a farm field, did you know that the herring gull may soon become an endangered species?

At 11:30 pm last night the sugar beet trucks were still rumbling by the house.  I guess they were trying to finish harvest before rain came or maybe to beat other farmers to the storage lots.  Harvest of corn is progressing too, it’s a busy time. 

November almanac

This month’s full moon occurs on November 6, it’s called the full beaver or full frost moon.  In earlier times beaver traps were set about this time and of course a large part of the country has now received killing frosts.

Both topaz and citrine are considered to be birthstones for November. November's birth flower is the chrysanthemum.  It’s National Adoption month, Native American Heritage Month, Peanut Butter Lovers month, American Diabetes Month, National Alzheimer's Disease Awareness Month, and Lung Cancer Awareness Month.

November 11th is Veterans day,  the 13th is Sadie Hawkins Day, World Diabetes Day is Friday, November 14,  World Toilet Day, whatever that means, is Wednesday, November 19th , November 27th is Thanksgiving.  The 28th is a busy day, Abe Lincoln and Robert E Lees birthdays, and American Indian Heritage day.  Of course it’s also Black Friday this year which is an actual holiday in 28 states.

Save the date
Something unusual is happening next year.  A world class garden show is coming to Belle Isle, Detroit next year.  Called the World Cup of Gardening it will be held June 16-21, 2015 on Belle Isle.  Some of the world’s top gardeners will be constructing display gardens in the type of competition that is found at the Chelsea Garden show and the Philadelphia Garden show. You may want to save the date and plan to attend.

There are numerous educational seminars planned, a big garden marketplace with international vendors, entertainment and top quality food.  It all sounds wonderful and I hope it can be pulled off successfully in a city not known for promoting gardening or horticulture.  You’ll need a state Recreation Passport to get on the Island, buy that when you renew your driver’s license or plates,  and I am sure there will be a hefty admission fee.

Thirty years ago, when I lived closer to Detroit and conditions there hadn’t declined as badly as they are now I went at least once a year to the Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory on Belle Isle.  The old greenhouses were a marvel and there was a nice nature center and a small zoo that were also nice.  Despite its somewhat seedy appearance even back then Belle Isle had natural beauty.  My family has old ties to the island and I always enjoyed going there. But I quit going when you had to drive past thugs lounging around and piles of garbage. People were getting robbed and cars stolen from the parking lots.  The last time I went there were glass panels missing in some of the greenhouses and some of the planted areas looked sadly neglected.

I was very happy this year when the state parks and recreation department took over the running and care of Belle Isle.  A group had taken over supporting the Conservatory several years ago and they supposedly made great strides in restoring that particular part of the island.  But to get to the Conservatory you still had to drive through dangerous and dirty areas.  The state is getting that cleaned up now and this World Cup of Gardening event will make them clean and polish it even faster.   I’m sure it will turn out to be a great garden event.  Hopefully it will become an annual event.

If you want to get a peek at Belle Isle early the Conservatory, an aquarium, nature zoo and the Dossin Great Lakes Museum are open weekends and admission is free with your Recreation Passport. There is a new self-guided tour of the historical and natural beauty sites on the island also.

Herbal medication contamination

If you use herbal medications that you buy at health stores or other places better beware. Some could make you sick, rather than help you.  Several recent research studies have focused on contaminants in herbal products, which are a largely unregulated area in the US.  One study found that 59% of the products had plant species not identified on the label in them.  But of greater importance was that some 43% of herbal samples tested in one study were contaminated with toxic molds, some of which could cause serious health problems.

Researchers have also found samples of herbal products with prescription medications added to them, some of which had been banned or withdrawn from the market.  They’ve also found hair, soil, animal and insect parts, fecal matter, paint chips and assorted other goodies. Because the herbal medication market is booming and lucrative, all kinds of concoctions produced under all kinds of conditions can be found on the market.  The World Health Organization is calling for standards for herbal products and more stringent regulations and testing of herbal products, calling them a serious threat to human health.

If you like to use herbal medications the safest thing would be to grow or collect them yourself.

Good things from walnuts

There has been lots of health research involving the use of walnuts lately and walnuts are emerging as a new superfood. Researchers at Yale-Griffin Prevention Research Center in Connecticut fed a group of obese patients with risk factors for diabetes and cardiovascular disease 46 grams of unroasted English walnuts every day.  They could eat the walnuts as a snack or incorporate them into a meal.  After 8 weeks the group that ate walnuts was compared to a group of similar people who didn’t eat walnuts.  The walnut eaters had better fasting glucose levels, better blood lipid levels and lower blood pressure than those that didn’t eat walnuts.

Walnuts in the hull.
Another recent research paper published examined the effect walnuts had on Alzheimer’s disease. The Developmental Neuroscience Laboratory at the New York State Institute for Basic Research in Developmental Disabilities (IBR), fed mice the human equivalent of 1-1.5 ounces a day of walnuts.  They found the brains of the mice were protected from oxidative stress and inflammation that leads to formation of amyloid plagues that cause the symptoms of Alzheimer’s disease.  Mice with brain damage showed an improvement in memory, less anxiety and improved learning skills when fed walnuts. 

Researchers believe it’s the alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) content of walnuts that causes the benefit.  Someday that nutrient may be available as a supplement  but as it has often been proven there may be other compounds in walnuts that contribute to the healthy effect they have.  It’s not hard to include an ounce or two of walnuts in the daily diet.  It may be well worth it if it prevents Alzheimer’s. 

Growing tree nuts

We know there are many benefits to eating all kinds of nuts.  And what better way to get those nuts than growing them yourself? If you are the gardener that wants to experience it all or you want a shade tree that does double duty, then you may want to plant a nut tree.  Nut trees are not difficult to grow, although you will have to be patient while waiting for that first harvest.

Almonds
Almonds are native to the Middle East and grow well only in similar climates here, notably the central area of California, which is the largest almond producing area of the world.  Almonds must have hot summers with cooler winters but no sub-zero temperatures.  Almonds are related to peaches and while the tree may grow anywhere where winters are mild, they seldom have “nuts” outside of warmer areas of the southwest.  

Bitter almonds tend to have pink flowers and sweet almonds white.  As a flowering tree almonds can be quite attractive.  Almond leaves are oval with a serrated edge.  The tree grows to about 30 feet high.   Almonds need to have at least two varieties present for pollination to occur, which is done by bees.  Almonds are not true nuts.  After pollination the flowers produce a leathery, grayish fruit which ripens in late fall and splits open,-revealing the pit or “nut”.

Pecans, Hickories
Pecans and hickories are related and can be interbred. The crosses of pecans and hickories called “Hicans”. There are pecan trees hardy to zone 5 but often the trees do not produce nuts in zone 5 or the nuts do not properly ripen before a freeze.  One nursery working to produce pecans hardy in the Midwest is Oikos Tree Crops http://www.oikostreecrops.com. Pecans do not do well above zone 9 either.  Pecans are large trees, up to 75 foot tall. 

Pecans are self-pollinating but produce bigger and earlier crops if two different varieties are planted. They are wind pollinated so the trees must be within 200 feet of each other.  Pecans have compound leaves with a long oval shape. The nuts are covered with a green husk which splits open when ripe to reveal the brown pecan shell, often striped with black. 

There are many varieties of pecans that are developed for various areas of the country.  Some are grafted trees. Pecans begin to bear within 5 to 12 years of planting depending on the variety and age when planted.

Hickories are hardier than pecans and grow farther north, at least to zone 5.    Hickory nuts are seldom seen in stores so if you enjoy them you will probably have to grow them yourself.  There are hickories that have sweeter and bigger nuts offered by specialty nurseries.  The trees are slow growing and don’t begin to bear for about 15 years. 

Walnuts
Black Walnuts, English Walnuts, Butternuts and Heartnuts are all related.  These nut trees are not recommended for  small yards because they produce a substance called juglone in their roots which inhibits the growth of many other plants.  They are also very messy with the hulls of the nuts staining patios and driveways.  That being said they are fine for the far edges of a large yard or wilder areas. 

Black walnuts have timber that is highly prized for woodworking but the Black Walnut tree growing in the yard will probably not yield much of a profit.   Lumber trees must be grown in a certain way to be valuable.  Black Walnuts have incredibly hard shells, which must removed from a messy, thick green husk that will stain anything it touches with a long lasting brownish  color, including your hands.  The meats are small but very tasty.

Black Walnuts have compound leaves.  They grow quickly if they like the location and can bear as early as ten years.  They can form huge trees up to 100 foot high. They are hardy from zone 4 to 9.

English Walnuts are less cold hardy, zone 5-8, than Black Walnuts but the nuts have thinner shells and larger nut meats with a milder walnut flavor.  Some grafted varieties are available.

Japanese walnuts are called Heartnuts because of the shape of the nuts.   They are hardy from zones 5-8.  Leaves are similar to other walnuts but up to three feet long.  They grow quickly and can begin to bear at five years.   They form a small tree up to about 25 foot high.  The nuts also have a thick hull and shell but are very sweet.

Butternuts are very similar to Black Walnuts and will grow from zone 3-7.    They are large, up to 50 foot in height, relatively fast growing, but may take 15 -20 years to bear nuts.

Hazelnuts, Filberts

Hazelnuts and filberts are essentially the same thing.   The name depends on what country you are in.  There are native hazelnuts in both Europe and North America. These nuts grow as small trees or as shrubs depending on the conditions and pruning.   They are wind pollinated and need two or more plants to set nuts. 

American Chestnut- en.wikipedia.org
Hazelnuts are prone to blight diseases and some areas have problems with one strain of blight while others have problems with another. Look for blight resistant varieties grown locally.  Hazelnuts spread by suckering and soon form thickets of trees or shrubs.   They are cold hardy to at least zone 5 but nut production is often diminished from late frosts.

Chestnuts
American Chestnuts used to provide tasty nuts throughout much of the east but they were wiped out by a chestnut blight.  Chinese Chestnuts can be grown in the United States in zones 4-8.   They are very ornamental trees with clusters of pretty flowers in the spring and make nice shade trees.    They are self-pollinating but planting two will give you a better crop.  A few American Chestnuts survived the blight and these were used to make hybrid trees resistant to blight which are sometimes offered on the market.  A commercial chestnut crop is slowly being developed in the US.

This weeks weed - Staghorn Sumac

Staghorn Sumac, (sometimes spelled sumach)-  Rhus typhina - is a prominent sight in the fields and woodland edges in the fall.  It has brilliant red leaves and red furry seed heads that light up the fall landscape.  Staghorn Sumac is sometimes used as an ornamental plant for just these reasons.  It is a North American native plant and has several closely related “cousins” including Poison Sumac, which is found in swampy areas and has white berries.  Staghorn Sumach is not poisonous.

Staghorn Sumac
Staghorn sumac usually grows in sunny, dry places.  It forms a small shrub up to 20 feet in height if conditions are good.  It is usually found in patches as it spreads by rhizomes as well as by seed.  It can be quite aggressive in spreading and will take over large patches of land if allowed.

Staghorn sumac leaves are compound, with 9-13 leaflets and are arranged along the stem in an alternate pattern.  Each leaflet is long with serrated edges. The leaves turn brilliant red in the early fall.  Leaf stems and twigs are covered with small hairs. The flowers of Staghorn Sumac usually go unnoticed but the dark red, cone shaped clusters of seeds that form on the ends of branches attract a lot of attention.  Each hard seed is covered by fine red hairs, giving the cluster a furry look. Staghorn Sumac seed heads persist long after the leaves drop off, even through winter if the birds don’t eat them.

Native Americans and early European settlers used the sumacs in a variety of ways. The berries were brewed into tea, which is said to have a lemony taste.  Oil can be extracted from the seeds which will thicken into a tallow-like substance that can be burned.  Sumacs were used in tanning and dyeing and in a number of herbal medicinal concoctions.

*****************

"This is the treacherous month when autumn days
With summer's voice come bearing summer's gifts.
Beguiled, the pale down-trodden aster lifts
Her head and blooms again. The soft, warm haze
Makes moist once more the sere and dusty ways,
And, creeping through where dead leaves lie in drifts,
The violet returns. Snow noiseless sifts
Ere night, an icy shroud, which morning's rays
Wildly shine upon and slowly melt,
Too late to bid the violet live again.
The treachery, at last, too late, is plain;
Bare are the places where the sweet flowers dwelt.
What joy sufficient hath November felt?
What profit from the violet's day of pain?"
-  Helen Hunt Jackson, Autumn Sonnet

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Butternut woollyworm: A unique summer pest of walnuts

Butternut woollyworms, a type of sawfly not often found in Michigan, have been attacking walnuts in southern Michigan. Control measures may not be necessary this late in the season.

Posted on October 31, 2014 by Bob Bricault, Michigan State University Extension

In late August 2014, I walked into my office to find a bag full of walnut leaves. Nothing unusual about that; I often get walnut leaves brought into the office throughout the summer that are damaged by fungal diseases, fall webworms or maybe a petiole borer. Inside the bag feeding on the walnut leaves were strange larvae covered in a thick, white mat that reminded me of knotted-up wool. Nature really is amazing! Thirty years working in forestry and horticulture and I had never seen this creature attacking walnuts. Working with Michigan State University Extension is very humbling at times, there is always something new to see and learn.

Though I had never seen this pest on walnuts, I had seen a similar insect attacking dogwood leaves, called a dogwood sawfly. The sawflies I have seen feeding on the dogwood leaves are also woolly white larvae that resemble a caterpillar, but sawflies are different since they do not turn into a moth or butterfly. The adult sawfly is a small, wasp-like insect that does not sting. The name sawfly comes from their unique saw-like ovipositor, a tube-like projection which the female uses to lay eggs into plant tissue. Sawflies that are common in Michigan include the pine sawfly and the mountain-ash sawfly. The larvae of sawflies feed in groups in close proximity to each other, stripping foliage as they move through the tree.

So following the “looks like a duck, quacks like a duck” principle, I checked my reference books and the Internet for a sawfly that feeds on walnuts and found the culprit. The mystery insect is a butternut woollyworm, Eriocampa juglandis, a type of sawfly that is found across the Northeastern United States and Southern Canada. So it is not a new pest of walnut and it is presumed to feed throughout the range where walnuts grow, also feeding on butternut and hickories.

For the butternut woollyworm, adult sawflies emerge from the soil in spring to mate and lay their eggs. The female cuts small slits into the midribs on the upper surface of walnut leaflets and deposits her eggs into the slits. Eggs hatch in about one week and larvae begin to feed on the underside of the leaves. At first, the small larvae chew small holes between veins, but as they grow into larger larvae they will consume entire leaflets leaving behind only the larger veins and midrib.

Newly hatched larvae do not have the white covering, but it quickly develops. Through the summer, the larvae grow to about 2 centimeters in length. After each molt, the whitish, wool-like substance is left behind with the shed skin. It is believed that the whitish covering helps to disguise the insect from predators. Fully grown larvae drop to the ground where they survive the winter in cocoons in the soil. Within the cocoon the larvae change into adult sawflies that emerge in the spring to start the cycle again.

So how common is the butternut woollyworm in Michigan? I contacted MSU Diagnostic Services to see if it was frequently seen. Though walnuts and butternuts are commonly found in Michigan, this pest is not often found. Since it was found feeding in late summer, it would not be as big of a concern as the leaves had most of the summer to produce sugars for future energy needs of the tree.
Butternut woollyworm.  Credit Lacy L.Hyche, Bugwood.org

Will it be back next year in larger numbers? Maybe, but it is unlikely that it will be a problem that will impact the health of the tree. A study from Auburn University found that heavy infestations of butternut woollyworm did not result in tree mortality in Alabama and populations fluctuated greatly over time. I would believe the same would be true here.

Since very few references mention this insect in Michigan, I will be more intent on watching for it next summer to see if it follows the same pattern of fluctuating populations as it did in Alabama. Though this pest at first glance appeared to be a serious problem by stripping foliage from trees, a smart gardener always identifies the problem before making any pesticide applications. In the case of the butternut woollyworm and other late-season pests in the landscape, it may not be necessary to use control measures.
This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

I have several free roosters, bantam and full sized if anyone is interested.  Young, healthy.  3 month old muscovy mostly black ducklings for sale $5.       Kimwillis151@gmail.com

MSU offered a variety of on line seminars for those who were interested in beginning farming topics of various types.  Some of those are now available free to watch at the address below.  Gardeners may be interested in topics like organic pest controlGet the list of topics and links here.

New-Holiday Indoor or Outdoor Greens Arrangement Workshop, Sat, November 15, At Telly's: 10am Troy, and  1pm, Pontiac
Create indoor table decor, a hand-crafted gift, or an outdoor arrangement. Bring clippers. $5, plus cost of materials Register: 248-689-8735.

Gardening on the Road- November 10, 2014, 4:30 - 7 p.m. Eastern Michigan Fairgrounds, 195 Midway St., Imlay City, MI

 
 A class for those interested in:
Picking the best varieties to select for your home garden
When a vegetables is ready to harvest
Getting answers to your gardening questions
Growing your own greens, root vegetables and squash
Pumpkins and their kin—winter squash
How to store and cook your produce
Watching cooking demos for easy to prepare dishes
Tasting samples of delicious new dishes
Learn great composting techniques, stabilize soil pH, keep moisture and air in soil and provide nutrients. Set up bins, hot, warm and cold composting methods and worm composting


Cost: $20  Online registration due by Nov. 6. Call for more information at  810-989-6935, 810-667-0341


Presented by the Master Gardeners of St. Clair and Lapeer Counties. Visit the Gardening on the Road registration page for more information.


Composting with Red Worms, November 6, 2014, 6:30 - 8 p.m. MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., MI
 
Macomb MSU Extension is presenting “Composting with Red Worms” on Thursday, November 6, 2014 at the Macomb MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., 48036 (Use Entrance E at the rear of the building). Join us from 6:30-8 p.m. for a free presentation on worm composting. Learn how to use worms to compost your food scraps. Master Composter volunteer Sarah DeDonatis will cover everything from the type of worms to use to the construction, care and maintenance of the worm bins.

Contact: Mary Gerstenberger, gerste10@anr.msu.edu, 586-469-6085
Please register in advance by calling 586-469-6440.

Skeleton Trees, Sunday, November 30, 2:00 pm,  Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200

Now that most of the trees are bare let’s see if we can figure out which tree is which during this nature walk. $3 admission for non-members.

Cottage to Commercial: Ingredients for a successful food business- Several locations and dates
Michigan State University Extension and MSU Product Center Educators will conduct four food business planning classes September through November in Berrien, Muskegon, Ingham and Kent County, Michigan locations.
The two-hour session addresses basic food processing, regulatory requirements, business development resources, and related topics. The program targets individuals who are interested in starting a licensed, commercial food business.
The Kent County session is scheduled for 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2014 at Kent County MSU Extension 775 Ball Ave. N.E., Grand Rapids, MI 49503. The fee is $20 per person, and registration is available online through Nov. 4, 2014.
The MSU Product Center helps aspiring entrepreneurs and existing businesses to develop and launch new product and service ideas into food, agriculture, bioenergy and natural resources markets. A statewide network of Innovation Counselors is available to counsel individuals interested in starting related business ventures. Last year the MSU Product Center assisted 647 clients with business planning.
Those who are unable to attend one of the offerings are invited to request counseling with a field- based MSU Product Center innovation counselor at www.productcenter.msu.edu , or by phone at 517-432-8750 This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop, Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.
Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m. Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911
Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


Tuesday, October 28, 2014

October 28, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

October 28, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

The sun is back out after a stormy morning.  We got about 3/10’s inch rain here this morning.  The temperature is supposed to fall this afternoon and since the wind has now started the front is probably moving in.  They are saying snow for Halloween now- that’s a big BOO.

Up until last night I was still hearing robins and seeing the turkey buzzards, but I think the red–wing blackbirds have moved south.  A big sandhill crane was visiting my pond Sunday, probably on his way south. And there are still mosquitoes out there.

I got some trail camera pictures of deer coming to eat apples off the ground at night.  My apples weren’t good for much else, although I have gathered some for the chickens too.  Opossums are also eating apples. 

There are still flowers blooming in the garden.  Phlox has started blooming again for some reason.  There are a few sporadic petunias and other annuals blooming still too.  The bittersweet is looking pretty on the fence but most of the leaves are off the trees now and I don’t see much color left.

It’s harvest time in the country and the huge trucks and machinery are rumbling by my house.  Soybean harvest is late this year and farmers are scrambling to get it done before starting on corn.  Sugar beets were planted all around me this year and it’s projected to be a record breaking year for sugar beet production.  Harvest is going on now for them too, the problem is there is limited storage and processing facilities and some of the crop is going to have to be left in the field and disked under.  The farmers are getting paid to leave some of the crop in the ground.  Now that’s what’s wrong with American agriculture.

It’s the great pumpkin issue!

This week’s issue of the newsletter is devoted to the pumpkin, including history, Jack O Lantern carving and yummy pumpkin recipes.  Have fun.

Origin and History of Pumpkins

Before they even began growing corn Native Americans were growing pumpkins, both for storage vessels and for food.  Native peoples in the more northern areas of the continent tended to grow what became modern pumpkins and in western and more southern areas of the continent they grew plants that were closer to the squash and gourds that we know today.  However squash, gourds and pumpkins are closely related and can interbreed and in early history there was probably a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes.  The earliest pumpkins were shaped more like gourds, with a “handle” or were pear shaped.  They came in a variety of colors.  The skin was tough and there was less fleshy matter than there is in modern pumpkins.

In small clearings in the forest and along fertile river banks patches of pumpkins were deliberately planted by the original Americans hundreds of years before Europeans arrived.  Maybe they were modeled after wild pumpkin patches where pumpkins grew after they floated down stream and washed on shore.  Later corn, beans and sunflowers often accompanied the pumpkins. 

Native Americans used every part of a pumpkin.  They were hollowed out, dried and used to hold seeds and other foods, even to carry water.  Some were elaborately decorated.  Pumpkins were used in soups and stews. The flesh of pumpkins was cut into strips and dried over open fires for storage.  Dried pumpkin could be pounded into a form of flour.  Young green pumpkins were eaten like we eat zucchini. Seeds were dried and used for food and medicine.  Pumpkin flowers were also eaten.  Even the leaves were used in some areas as a cooked green.

Native Americans introduced pumpkins and squash to early European settlers and they became an important winter food staple.  A common way to prepare pumpkin was to open the top and fill the cavity with milk, and eggs and sugar if available and then bury the pumpkin in the coals of the fire to cook.  The inside turned to custard like consistency which was scooped out and eaten.  Later when there was wheat to make flour, this pumpkin custard turned into pumpkin pies.  Pumpkins were also used in soups and as a roasted vegetable. Beer was even made from pumpkins, usually sweetened and flavored with maple sugar or syrup.   

It is said that Columbus brought pumpkin seeds to Europe, that may or may not be true but some early explorer certainly did introduce pumpkins and squash to Europe.  At first pumpkins were mainly used for animal food. Early cultivated pumpkins did not look like the smooth, bright orange fruits piled outside every store in the fall.  They were flatter and heavily ridged.   The color was more of a pinkish orange or red.  If you look at the illustrations in an early copy of the Cinderella story, you can get an idea of what early pumpkins looked like.   Somehow, in Europe pumpkins became entwined with the supernatural and many legends and fairytales include pumpkins.

Pumpkins are now grown and eaten in most areas of the world, although North America still grows far more pumpkins than any other country.  The top pumpkin producing state is Illinois, where the factory that produces Libby canned pumpkin is located in Morton.  Close to 2 billion pounds of pumpkins are produced in the US each year.

In some parts of Europe oil is pressed from pumpkin seeds and used for cooking.  Pumpkin seed oil is a reddish green and strongly flavored, but favored for some ethnic cuisines.  Pumpkin seeds are called pepitas and are a popular healthy snack in many countries.  Varieties of pumpkins whose seeds have no hulls are often grown for this purpose but all pumpkin seeds can be roasted and eaten.

The astoundingly huge pumpkins grown for competition are really squash.   They are generally large blobs of pale yellow instead of the round orange globes favored for seasonal decorations.  A winning pumpkin may weigh over 1500 pounds

Growing Pumpkins

Pumpkins can be grown over much of the United States.  In Michigan, the quickest maturing varieties must be chosen and the plants may need to be started indoors a few weeks before your last frost.  Pumpkin seeds are generally planted in the ground in Zone 5 and above, after the danger of frost is over and the soil is warm.   Mounding the soil and covering it with black plastic a week or so before planting pumpkins there will warm the soil and get plants off to a good start. 

Pumpkins must have full sun to grow well.  They prefer rich, fertile soil with lots of organic matter.  Pumpkins are heavy feeders and benefit from a little 5-10 -5 fertilizer worked into the soil at planting and fertilizing with a slow release fertilizer about half way through your growing season.  Pumpkins need regular watering if rainfall is less than an inch a week.  Try to water at the base of the plants and early enough in the day so that the leaves dry before night, as pumpkins are susceptible to fungal disease. 

Unless you have lots of room, don’t plant too many pumpkins.  Each vine will cover large amounts of space.  Even the mini pumpkins have large vines.  The pumpkin leaves are huge, with three lobes.  The vines are thick, dark green to black and both the leaves and vines are covered with sticky, scratchy hairs.  Pumpkin blooms are golden yellow; male flowers start opening first, then the females with the tiny pumpkin attached to the back of the flower begin to open.  The flowers need to be pollinated by insects to produce pumpkins.   Removing some of the later fruits that start to develop will help the first fruits grow larger. 

As the pumpkin vines grow longer, mound soil over them in various places.   The vines will put some roots down there to help feed the plant, which may save the plant if squash vine borers attack.  These insects lay eggs on the plants, which hatch into little worms that feed inside the pumpkin vine, causing the leaves to wilt.  Eventually the plant will die beyond the damaged area.  If you notice your pumpkin vines wilting and the soil is moist, check the vines for tiny holes with sawdust around them.  You can sometimes kill the worm with piece of wire, then mound soil over the damaged area and save the plant.

Harvest pumpkins when the leaves have been killed by the first frost. You can harvest earlier if the fruit has a mature color and the rind is firm.   Cut the pumpkin from the vine leaving several inches of stem.  Longer stems help pumpkins store better.  Let them cure in a sunny area for a few days if possible, then store out of the sun in a warm, dry area.  Don’t let pumpkins freeze or they will turn into mush.   Pumpkins that are almost ripe will continue to ripen a little after picking, but green pumpkins will not turn orange after picking. 

Choosing Varieties

There are over fifty pumpkin varieties on the market and most are decorative types.  There are large pumpkins, tiny ones, and yellow, red, blue, tan, and white ones.  There are some varieties, however, that are still being grown for eating.  There are also special varieties of pumpkins that are grown for producing seeds.  For Jack- O- Lanterns choose varieties such as ‘Howden,’ ‘Wolf,’ ‘Expert,’ ‘Connecticut Field,’ ‘Phantom.’  For large white pumpkins try ‘Lumina’ or ‘Full Moon’,  ‘Rouge Vif D’Etampes’ is a reddish, flattened Cinderella type, ‘One Too Many’ is orange and white striped, ‘Jamboree’ is blue-gray.  For cooking plant ‘Amish Pie,’ ‘Winter Luxury,’ ‘Small Sugar’, or ‘New England Pie.’  Mini pumpkins include ‘Baby Boo,’ (white),  ‘Wee Be Little,’ and ‘Jack Be Little.’   For huge competition pumpkins try ‘Dill’s Atlantic Giant,’ ‘Wyatt’s Wonder,’ or ‘Prizewinner.’  ‘Kakai’ and ‘Snackjack’ produce hull-less seeds for eating.

 Carving the perfect pumpkin

Long before pumpkins were turned into scary decorations, Europeans were hollowing out turnips and gourds as candle holders for “Hallows” Eve.    When the tradition was carried to the new world it was found that pumpkins make an excellent substitute for turnips.   If you are going to carve a pumpkin for Halloween this year here are some tips.
This chicken is carving its pumpkin.

Larger pumpkins are easier to clean out and you want a pumpkin with a sturdy stem for a handle.  Pumpkins with longer stems tend to last longer.  Lighter colored pumpkins are said to be easier to carve but they will not last as long.  Pumpkins don’t change color after they are picked so whatever color your pumpkin is when you buy or pick it, that’s the color it will be when you carve it.  Don’t carve your pumpkin too long before you want to display it.  Keep it outside in the shade or in a cool until you do carve it.  Pumpkins should be kept from freezing.  They can turn to mush if they freeze solid.


Wash the outside just before beginning.  Carefully cut a round area around the stem.  It should be large enough to get your hand inside.  The hole can’t be enlarged after you remove the top because the lid will not fit when you are done.  If the top does tend to fall inside, add a small piece of cardboard to the back of the lid’s rim held in place with a toothpick.  This will wedge it in place.

Clean off the bottom of the “top” and set it aside.   After cleaning out the “guts” (save the seeds), scrape the “meat” away down to about one inch thick.   A kitchen spoon makes a good cleaning and scraping utensil.  Slicing off a spot on the outside of bottom may make the pumpkin sit level. 

You can draw your proposed cuts on the pumpkin with a marker.  Some people use patterns that you can buy in craft stores to trace a face on the pumpkin.  Use your imagination and be creative.  Instead of a face you can carve a scene or a series of stars or other small openings that will glow when lit from inside.  Your name or address could also be carved into the pumpkin.

Once you have decided what to carve use a serrated pumpkin carving knife (sold in most stores that carry Halloween decorations), or use a serrated steak knife or any sharp kitchen knife.  Be careful that you don’t add real blood to the scary face by cutting yourself.  Parents may want to let kids draw a face or design and then cut it out for them.

After cleaning and carving, soak the pumpkin in a mix of 1 teaspoon of bleach to a gallon of water for a few minutes.  Pat dry inside and out, or dry carefully with a hair dryer, and then coat your carving cuts with a thin layer of petroleum jelly.   

Options to carving

Some people opt to paint the pumpkin instead of carve it.  Most acrylic craft paints will work and are non-toxic.  The pumpkin could be rinsed off after Halloween and used to make pie.

Black duct tape can be used to tape a face on the pumpkin.  If you can’t find black duct tape color a darker shade of tape with black marker.  Cut the tape into shapes that make a scary or happy face and apply to a dry pumpkin.  Note: electrical tape won’t stick to pumpkins.

Another alternative to carving a pumpkin is to pin things like buttons, felt shapes, flowers or seed pods to the pumpkin.  You can still find straight pins in the sewing notions section of stores and toothpicks can even be used.  Kids enjoy this sort of pumpkin decorating almost as much as carving one and there is much less mess.

Lighting your carved creation

Using a battery powered light instead of a candle makes the Jack O Lantern last longer. Small twinkling Christmas lights can be stuffed inside, a battery powered string works great.  If you do use a candle, you can coat the inside of the lid with cinnamon, cloves or other spices for a delightfully scented pumpkin. 

Use solar lights to light your Jack O Lantern

Want a new, environmentally friendly and safe way to light up your Jack O Lantern?  Use solar lights. The simple inexpensive stake type solar light used to light paths is an excellent pumpkin light.  The solar light uses no electricity, and is perfectly safe, it won’t start fires or burn anything and because there is no heat with the light the pumpkin stays fresh longer.  They turn on automatically when it’s dark and most solar lights will last many hours after a sunny day and will even come on for a while after a not so sunny day.
Pumpkin with solar light.

Measure the top, light collecting part of your solar light and cut the hole in the pumpkin so the light will fit snugly inside the hole with just the top exposed.  (You’ll need to clean out the pumpkin “guts” first before you fit the light inside.)  If you can’t get your hands inside to clean the pumpkin out with a small hole, you can make the hole bigger, and then use wood skewers or stiff wire across the opening to support the light.  Or find a glass jar that supports the stake light with the light top sticking just above the opening in the pumpkin. On a taller pumpkin the light can be left on its stake but for shorter pumpkins you may have to remove the stake from the light.  Carve a face in your pumpkin as usual.

The pumpkin must be sitting in the sun during the day so the solar panel can collect light energy.  And most solar lights can’t be entirely inside the pumpkin at night.  The sensor turns the light on when it’s dark, so they do come on as darkness falls but they turn off quickly because the light in an enclosed space causes the sensor to turn the light off.  The sensor part of the light must be outside the pumpkin, in the dark, at night. 
Same pumpkin at night.

If you don’t have a sunny area to place the pumpkin in there are strings of solar “fairy lights” that can be purchased which have a solar panel connected to the light string that can be placed a short distance from the lights to collect energy.  The light string can be coiled inside the pumpkin without harm.  Other types of solar lights with remote light collectors are also available but these options are more expensive than the simple solar stake light.

Uses for left over pumpkins

Other than Halloween decorations pumpkins make great seasonal décor inside or out.  Uncut pumpkins will last a long time if they don’t freeze or get too hot.  Different colors and shapes of pumpkins can be grouped together, maybe on a straw bale or in a wicker basket. 

A pumpkin can be hollowed out to hold a glass or metal container in which a mum or dry floral arrangement could be placed. It could also be filled with dry corn to hold things like cattails, turkey feathers and dried grasses.  Inside as a table decoration, small green plants or other flowers could be inserted.   Halloween candy or other treats can be served from a pumpkin lined with a plastic bowl.  Votive candles can be placed inside small pumpkins for table tops. Don’t carve a scary face on these table toppers; instead carve a scene or random shapes into the pumpkin. White pumpkins can be coated with glitter for a different look.  

Left over pumpkins can become great food for wildlife and livestock.  Chickens love pumpkins and placing a whole one in the coop is great for relieving boredom while providing a healthy treat.  Cows, goats, sheep, pigs and even horses love pumpkins but introduce them in small amounts so you don’t make the animals sick. 

Split a pumpkin in half and leave the halves near your bird feeder.  Many birds enjoy the seeds as well as the flesh of the pumpkin.  Deer love pumpkins and they can be used in bait piles.

Of course pumpkins make great people food too.  Last week’s newsletter had canning and preserving directions.  Look for some pumpkin recipes later in this newsletter.

If you have no animals to feed and no longer need harvest decorations you can compost the pumpkins.  But be careful, if they still have seeds inside and you toss them in the flower bed, on the lawn or compost pile, you may get pumpkin vines growing there next year!

How to cook pumpkin seeds

Did you save the seeds when you carved that Jack O Lantern?  Rinse them off and allow them to dry overnight.  Line a cookie sheet with foil and spread the seeds in a single layer.   Spray them with cooking spray and then sprinkle with salt and other seasonings.  Garlic salt, red pepper, parmesan cheese, and cinnamon are all good seasonings to try.  Bake the seeds at 250 degrees for about an hour or until they are golden brown.  Cool and enjoy!  

Pumpkin medicinal uses

Pumpkin seeds have long been used to get rid of intestinal worms like pin worms and tapeworms and there is some scientific evidence suggesting they do kill internal parasites.  In this use the raw seeds are hulled and eaten or made into a paste with honey and eaten.

Pumpkin seeds have long been a traditional way to treat prostate swelling and inflammation and medical research does support this claim.  Raw or roasted seeds are eaten for this use.  Pumpkin seed oil is also being evaluated for this use. Pumpkin seeds are also a mild diuretic and are used in traditional medicine to treat kidney and bladder problems.

Pumpkin  seeds have many medicinal uses.
Photo credit flickr.com
Traditional medicine has used pumpkin extracts to lower blood sugar and recent studies have found that the extract does increase blood insulin levels.  Also pumpkin extracts, pumpkin seed oil and pumpkin seeds are being studied in the treatment of several forms of cancer.  They are high in antioxidants.  Several studies have shown that those who eat pumpkin seeds frequently have lower incidences of breast, prostate, lung, gastric and colorectal cancer.    

The leaves of pumpkins can be steeped in hot water and used for fevers.  In Eastern medicine pumpkin is used for mental problems.  Recent research has shown that pumpkin seeds have high levels of tryptophan, which can relieve depression.

Pumpkin has a lot of fiber and has long been used as a safe, gentle laxative.

A puree of pumpkin pulp soothes and softens skin and is used for pimples and minor skin irritations.

Pumpkin recipes

Ah – for the fun and tasty part.  Pumpkin is high in amino acids and vitamins B, C, D, E and K.  It also contains minerals like calcium, copper, potassium and phosphorus.  Pumpkin contains healthy antioxidants and flavonoid compounds such as carotenes.   It’s low in fat and proteins but high in carbohydrates.   It has lots of dietary fiber.

There are tons of pumpkin recipes but here are a few to get you started.

Pumpkin Fudge Bars

Cookie Base:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup quick or old-fashioned oats
3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup flaked coconut
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
3/4 cup butter, softened

Fudge top:
2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup (5 fl.-oz. can) evaporated Milk
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup canned pumpkin (not pie filling)
1 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups miniature marshmallows
1 & 2/3 cups (11-oz. pkg.) Butterscotch flavored morsels
3/4 cup chopped walnuts
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

First make the cookie base.  Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.  Line a 15 x 10 or equivalent pan with foil. 
 
Mix all the cookie ingredients except the butter in a bowl until well blended.  Cut in the butter until a crumbly mixture forms.  Pat the mixture down evenly over the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake until slightly brown, about 15 minutes.  Let cool.

Now make the fudge part.  Combine the butter, evaporated milk, sugar, pumpkin, pumpkin pie spice and salt in medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, over medium heat. Boil, and stir constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Stir in the marshmallows, butterscotch morsels and vanilla with ½ cup of the nuts.  Stir until the marshmallows melt and the mixture is well blended.  Pour the fudge mix over the cookie base and refrigerate until firm.  Cut into bars.  Makes about 48 bars.

Pumpkin Dip

Here’s a sweet dip you can serve in a hollowed out pumpkin!  Use the dip with cookies, apple wedges, crackers or even veggies.

1 can, (15 oz.) pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling)
1 pkg.  (3.4 oz.) JELL-O Vanilla Flavor Instant Pudding ( you can use the new pumpkin spice flavor too or use sugar free vanilla instant pudding)
1 tsp.  pumpkin pie spice
1 tub  (8 oz.) COOL WHIP Whipped Topping, thawed

Blend all the ingredients except the cool whip in a large bowl with electric mixer.  Blend in the cool whip by hand.  Refrigerate one hour to thicken.  Serve cold.

Pumpkin and apple soup
Yummy and healthy.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 firm apples, peeled and diced
1 small yellow onion, peeled and finely diced
6 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup apple cider
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon thyme
2 cans (15 oz. each) pumpkin puree (not pie filling)
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream

Put the olive oil in a large pot over low heat.  Add the onions and apples, cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and golden.

Pour in the stock, cider, pepper and thyme.  Bring to a boil, boil 1 minute.  Pour in the pumpkin puree and use a whisk or immersion blender to blend until smooth.

Add the cream and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved.  Turn down heat to simmer and simmer about 10 minutes.  Makes about 6 servings.

Have a happy Halloween. 
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Picking the right pumpkin from the patch
Colorful with interesting shapes, today’s cucurbits, or pumpkins, may actually surprise you!
Posted on October 8, 2014 by Rebecca Finneran, Michigan State University Extension

Plants knows as “cucurbits” can be colorful, decorative and even spooky-looking! So what is this curiously named plant? It’s the humble pumpkin, our beloved Halloween icon! Pumpkins, squash and gourds comprise some of the most interesting plants in this family known as Cucurbitacea or simply cucurbits.
The scrambling annual vines of this group of plants produce blossoms resulting in fruits with thick, edible flesh. Cucurbits such as pumpkins and gourds may be very colorful, vary in size, and can appear smooth, ridged, lumpy or horned. Native to South America, the durable plants have been an important food source for native people across the continent. Records indicate that this group of plants made their way to other continents shortly after the discovery of the “new world.”

One of the most interesting science facts about cucurbits is that each plant produces both male and female flowers. Male flowers most often emerge before the female flowers, which when pollinated, will result in a fruit. Weather patterns can affect both pollination and fruit set, so often gardeners are disappointed in the number of fruits their plants yield at the end of the season. Michigan producers have dozens of cultivars to choose from and with the good growing season, the crop is abundant.

Great pumpkin!


If you are looking for a traditional, round to oval, orange orb this Halloween, cultivars such as the traditional ‘Howden’ will do fine. In the pumpkin world, names are everything. ‘Mrs. Wrinkles’ sports deeply grooved, dark-orange skin. Giant pumpkin strains offer the easily spooked trick-or-treater a thrill with their overwhelming size. Germinating from seed that originated from a grower in Nova Scotia, 50 to 100 pounders are common in this group. The current world record weighed in at over 2,000 pounds. This time of year, displays of prize-winners can be found at public gardens, fairs and other festive events.

In recent years, white became the new orange in pumpkin displays with smooth-skinned, white cultivars known as ‘Lumina,’ ‘Valenciano,’ ‘Moonshine’ and the miniature-sized ‘Baby Boo.’ But why stop with white? Many cultivars today have gray-green coloration and may be short in stature, but are not short on character. Deeply incised lobes give this group of pumpkins the true “Cinderella’s carriage” effect. A bright scarlet, French pumpkin, ‘Rouge D’ Etampes’ adds contrast to a fall display akin to a fiery globe.

Interesting characteristics have also adorned recent releases of both pumpkins and gourds such as bumps, wings and warts. Seems to be the more gruesome, the better as exhibited on the cultivar known as ‘Knuckle Head.’ It is so bumpy it takes on a personality all its own. Gourd mixes and blends just seem to get more and more distorted, adding to their interest in the fall display or individual table-top adornment.

No matter what type you choose this fall, be sure the skin is not kicked or broken which will allow rotting more quickly. Avoid allowing your pumpkins and gourds to sit in a wet area. Look for a stem that is still green and firmly attached for the same reason. While outdoor displays will last much longer, an indoor display will last better if placed in a cool, dry room or porch.
This article was published by Michigan State University Extension. For more information, visit http://www.msue.msu.edu.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

I have several free roosters, bantam and full sized if anyone is interested.  Young, healthy.  3 month old muscovy mostly black ducklings for sale $5.       Kimwillis151@gmail.com


 New- Gardening on the Road- November 10, 2014, 4:30 - 7 p.m. Eastern Michigan Fairgrounds, 195 Midway St., Imlay City, MI

 
 A class for those interested in:
Picking the best varieties to select for your home garden
When a vegetables is ready to harvest
Getting answers to your gardening questions
Growing your own greens, root vegetables and squash
Pumpkins and their kin—winter squash
How to store and cook your produce
Watching cooking demos for easy to prepare dishes
Tasting samples of delicious new dishes
Learn great composting techniques, stabilize soil pH, keep moisture and air in soil and provide nutrients. Set up bins, hot, warm and cold composting methods and worm composting


Cost: $20  Online registration due by Nov. 6. Call for more information at  810-989-6935, 810-667-0341


Presented by the Master Gardeners of St. Clair and Lapeer Counties. Visit the Gardening on the Road registration page for more information.


Composting with Red Worms, November 6, 2014, 6:30 - 8 p.m. MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., MI
 
Macomb MSU Extension is presenting “Composting with Red Worms” on Thursday, November 6, 2014 at the Macomb MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., 48036 (Use Entrance E at the rear of the building). Join us from 6:30-8 p.m. for a free presentation on worm composting. Learn how to use worms to compost your food scraps. Master Composter volunteer Sarah DeDonatis will cover everything from the type of worms to use to the construction, care and maintenance of the worm bins.

Contact: Mary Gerstenberger, gerste10@anr.msu.edu, 586-469-6085
Please register in advance by calling 586-469-6440.

Prairie Seed Collecting, Sunday, November 2, 1:00 pm, Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200
Come out to our tall grass prairie to learn all about the prairie and its plants while collecting seeds for your own yard or garden. Bring some paper bags and a bucket if you plan on collecting seeds. $3 admission for non-members.

Skeleton Trees, Sunday, November 30, 2:00 pm,  Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200

Now that most of the trees are bare let’s see if we can figure out which tree is which during this nature walk. $3 admission for non-members.


Cottage to Commercial: Ingredients for a successful food business- Several locations and dates

Michigan State University Extension and MSU Product Center Educators will conduct four food business planning classes September through November in Berrien, Muskegon, Ingham and Kent County, Michigan locations.
The two-hour session addresses basic food processing, regulatory requirements, business development resources, and related topics. The program targets individuals who are interested in starting a licensed, commercial food business.
The Kent County session is scheduled for 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2014 at Kent County MSU Extension 775 Ball Ave. N.E., Grand Rapids, MI 49503. The fee is $20 per person, and registration is available online through Nov. 4, 2014.

The MSU Product Center helps aspiring entrepreneurs and existing businesses to develop and launch new product and service ideas into food, agriculture, bioenergy and natural resources markets. A statewide network of Innovation Counselors is available to counsel individuals interested in starting related business ventures. Last year the MSU Product Center assisted 647 clients with business planning.

Those who are unable to attend one of the offerings are invited to request counseling with a field- based MSU Product Center innovation counselor at www.productcenter.msu.edu , or by phone at 517-432-8750 This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop, Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.
Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m. Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911
Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com