Tuesday, August 12, 2014

August 12, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter



These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Black Beauty lilies with Giant Swallowtail butterfly.
It’s Tuesday and it looks like more rain is on the way. Yesterday I had ¾ inch of rain in my rain gauge but that amount may be off because a morning glory had climbed the post the gauge was on and may have deflected some rain.  But I know we didn't get anywhere near the amount of rain some other places like Detroit and Bay City had. Rainfall totals have been all over the place this summer, some people are getting too much, some too little rain and some just the right amount.

In the garden my mums are starting to bloom.  Echinacea and Russian sage are blooming.  Goldenrod is beginning to bloom. The lilies are still going strong, with Black Beauty being the star right now. The garden phlox are at full bloom.  And this is scary- I am seeing trees starting to color up for fall.

To show just how effective conservation techniques can be one has only to look at the return of the Bald Eagle.  And I can testify they are returning.  We have had a juvenile Bald Eagle and his parents in the area for the last couple weeks.  The young one is very noisy, screaming loudly as he follows his parents around begging for food.  Even though I suspect his parents may have been feeding him my ducks it is interesting to see them.

Rain and cool weather can make some fungal diseases of the garden more common.  Watch for downy mildew in your vine crops like cucumbers and melons.  Conditions are ripe for late blight but so far the disease doesn't seem to be in Michigan. Verticillium wilt can affect a wide range of plants including tomatoes, peppers and beans and it likes cool wet weather.  The only protection from fungal diseases is to apply a fungicide prior to the infection.

While apples will probably be abundant this year the peach harvest won’t be, at least in Michigan.  Many peach trees were killed in Michigan this past winter.  But if you can find Michigan peaches snap them up.  Later in this newsletter I talk more about Michigan peaches.

How do you know if sweet corn is ready to eat?

My early sweet corn is gone and it will be a few more days until the later crop is ready. That early corn was great and I am waiting for the second crop. Some people who are new to sweet corn growing ask how to tell when corn is ready to eat.  First feel the ear, it should feel plump and full.  The silk on the end of the ear should be brown and dried.  Then you can pull back the husk just a little and do the fingernail test.  Poke your fingernail in a kernel of corn.  If it’s too green a watery fluid will leak out.  If it’s too old, no fluid will leak out and the kernel will look doughy inside.  If it’s just right a milky looking fluid will leak out.

By the way you can smooth the husk back down on the corn and let it ripen some more if it isn't ready.  Corn that’s a little old will be tough but generally still edible.  Pick only enough corn that you can eat it the same day.  If you must harvest more for whatever reason store it in the husk in the refrigerator. 

Has someone approached you about allowing a gas or other pipeline on your property?

Exploration for natural gas has become a hot topic in this area.  Some homeowners have been approached by people wanting to buy gas and oil rights or easements or right of ways to cross a property with a pipe line.  This is happening in suburbs as well as rural areas. The people who are offering to buy rights or easements are often very persistent.  They may tell you that the project will go through because of “eminent domain laws”  that is it will happen whether you want it or not because it has been determined that it is in the best interests of the public.  If you don’t make a deal with them you will lose any bargaining power, they tell you.

Never, ever, sign anything or make any agreements without having your own real estate lawyer look over the papers.  There are now lawyers who specialize in oil and gas leases and they advertise in the phone book.  Not all projects will get eminent domain status but you may not know which ones.  And even if they do there are things you can negotiate such as where the line will cross your property.  Even if you want the money and are willing to sell make sure to get a lawyer to check over any contracts.  Yes it will cost you for this but a lawyer can often negotiate better terms and can protect your interests.  The wrong kind of deal or contract can seriously impair your chances of selling your property in the future and make the value of your property go down.

Pollution that makes fish happy

Not all pollution has negative effects, at least if you look at the effect on individual species.  Oxazepam is a drug prescribed to humans for anxiety and depression.  It gets eliminated from the body in urine, and eventually makes its way to the surface waters.  It is a common pollutant in natural waters close to civilization.

A study done in Europe found that perch living in water contaminated with Oxazepam survived their first two years of life better than fish living in uncontaminated water.  The “polluted” perch were bolder and more aggressive than perch raised with no pollution.   Maybe with less anxiety the fish were better foragers and competitors.

Researchers caution that because one species benefited from pollution doesn't mean the pollution is a good thing.  When one species in an environment suddenly gains an advantage over other species it can cause a cascade of events that will disrupt the balance of that environment and possibly result in the destruction of another species.

Faking the light

Rex begonias in natural light.
The most important thing to life on earth is how plants use light to produce energy.  Plants have complex systems that tell them when to grow, produce energy, flower, produce fruit and so on depending on the light available.  They judge how much light is available for these processes using a molecule called a phytochrome, found in plant cells, which measures how much red light is available for plant growth.  These phytochromes regulate whether a plant will grow lanky stretching toward the light, stop flowering because it’s shaded by another plant, or whether it will grow robustly and produce abundant flowers because a proper amount of light is available.

Researchers at the University of Wisconsin-Madison are developing ways to cause mutations in phytochromes so that they think they are getting enough red light and send signals to the plant to grow and flower despite less than ideal conditions.  The plant will think that it’s in full light and produce accordingly.  They envision tiny backyards producing huge vegetable yields despite plant crowding and shady areas producing abundantly.  The researchers published their findings in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. 

I don’t know but it seems that the phtyochromes were in the plants for a good reason.  If the resources for plant growth aren't there how does tricking the plant into believing that they are allow it to grow?   It’s like you working and putting a certain amount of money in the bank to fund what you need to live.  You make decisions on spending based on how much money you have.  But if your bank statement shows you have far more money than you really do and you start spending more money than you actually have – well – I think everyone knows what that leads to- a giant problem.

This weeks weed- Purple nut sedge and our early ancestors

Thousands of years ago, along the White Nile river in what is now Sudan, Africa, some of our earliest ancestors were keeping their teeth healthy by eating a plant that’s now known as one of the world’s worst weeds, purple nutsedge (Cyperus rotundus).  How do we know? We found traces of nutsedge DNA in their teeth.

New advances in anthropology allow researchers to pull DNA from the calculus (tarter) on the teeth of ancient skeletons and analyze it to see what our ancestors were eating.  While our early hunter-gatherer ancestor’s diet consisted of mainly meat they did eat some plants.  Except in times of famine though, researchers think that most of the plant products consumed were either flavoring, medicinal or part of spiritual rituals. Some plant DNA in the teeth may have come from using the teeth to hold plant products, like vines or branches used in building or making tools, just like many of us use our teeth today to hold nails or needles.  Some fibrous plants were chewed to soften and release plant fibers for making various products.

Purple nutsedge.
Up until the beginning of agriculture and the growing of grains the teeth of early humans was remarkably free of tooth decay.  One reason was the diet, meat doesn't leave sugars on the teeth to cause decay.  But the other reason was that early man knew that certain plants helped keep teeth clean and healthy.  And even after farming began to feed the people, many civilizations continued to munch on purple nutsedge, as evidence from their teeth shows.

Purple nutsedge is a bitter plant, even after cooking. It’s not a plant you would eat for pleasure.  But you might eat it if you were starving and knew it was nutritious or if you knew it was good for you, despite its taste. Think of how many people swill nasty tasting mouthwash around their mouth to keep their teeth clean today.  Or how you expect medicine to taste awful, but you take it because it will make you feel better.  It’s not sure what part of the plant was eaten in ancient times but it was most likely the small tubers that form along the roots.  Those tubers are still used today in herbal preparations.

Present day research shows that purple nutsedge inhibits the growth of Streptococcus mutans, a bacteria that causes a lot of tooth decay. This fact  (that it kept teeth healthy) seems to have been widely known and the plant was chewed for that purpose even through the Roman civilization.  Ancient medical texts show that purple nutsedge was also used for stomach problems, fever reduction, to bring on menstruation and roasted tubers were applied as poultices on wounds and infections. 

Modern herbal uses of purple nutsedge include treatment of nausea, and to reduce fever, pain and inflammation and as a muscle relaxant.  Quite a few medicinally active compounds have been found in purple nutsedge recently and those products are being studied in a number of research trials.  The plant is still actively used in Chinese alternative medicines.

The tubers of purple nutsedge can be used as an emergency food, despite their taste.  They are high in carbohydrates and loaded with vitamins and minerals.  Our ancestors were very aware of foods that could be eaten when times were hard.  And just as people today develop a taste for spinach, collards and other bitter greens some early people may have actually liked to eat purple nutsedge tubers.

Yet farmers do battle with purple nutsedge with a vengeance.  It is responsible for billions of dollars of crop loss around the world.  It is extremely hard to control with herbicides.  When purple nutsedge gets into a crop field it competes vigorously with the crops for soil nutrients and it also releases compounds from its roots which inhibit the growth of other plants.  It soon forms huge patches where nothing else grows well.  Gardeners also struggle with the plant, it can ruin flower borders or home vegetable patches.

Purple nutsedge is not common in colder climates yet the USDA map shows it established in Minnesota and it has been found in Michigan fields.  In colder climates yellow nutsedge, a close cousin of purple nutsedge is more common and equally obnoxious as a weed.  Nutsedges have grass-like leaves but the leaves are arranged in threes instead of pairs as grass has along the stem.  Nutsedge leaves are thicker and stiffer than grass leaves. Grass stems are hollow and generally round in cross section, while nutsedge stems are solid and triangular in cross section.  

The nutsedge plant sends up spikes of tiny flowers with a purplish tint in purple nutsedge and a golden color in yellow nutsedge.  The flowers rarely produce seeds, instead the plants spread by underground rhizomes and the tiny tubers that form along them. Even a tiny piece of rhizome or tuber can form a new plant.  Golden nutsedge tubers are said to be less bitter than purple nutsedge tubers and Native Americans often included them in sustenance food supplies.

Herbicides struggle to kill the plants and are not very effective. Pigs and poultry are quite fond of the tubers and can clean the ground of them if they are allowed to do so.  That’s one of the easiest ways to get rid of the nutsedges.  Onions and cowpeas are said to inhibit nutsedge growth and can be planted as cover crops to get rid of some of it.  While nutsedge does not like shade it will penetrate black plastic mulch easily and actually likes the heat it provides.  Organic mulches do little good, the nutsedge grows right through it.  But clear and opaque plastic mulch often kill the nutsedge by overheating it.

Making blue hibiscus

There’s a man in Texas that says he has produced a blue hibiscus.  Dr. Dariusz Malinowski, who works at the Texas AgriLife Research Station has been working to produce new and better hardy hibiscus varieties for the last 5 years or so.  He now says he has finally produced the elusive blue hibiscus many plant breeders have dreamed about.
Hardy hibiscus.

In the last few years mauve and lavender shades of hibiscus have come on the market, many from Malinowski’s breeding programs.  But after making more than 1,000 crosses of 3 different winter hardy hibiscus Malinowski claims he has hit the jackpot with a delicate blue colored hibiscus flower.   The plant isn’t on the market yet and Malinowski hopes to deepen the blue color still but he says it will be on the market in a year or so.

The hibiscus research program has produced a number of new cultivars of hardy hibiscus.  Red and bronze foliage, smaller and larger flowers, and new colors are being produced.  While many hardy hibiscus have a darker center or “eye” Malinowski is trying to produce hardy hibiscus with a white eye and dark outer petal color.  He has managed to produce a blush pink hibiscus with a white eye but is shooting for a deep red one with a white eye.  (I’d like to see orange or yellow in the hardy hibiscus, maybe that’s a good goal to shoot for.)

Hardy hibiscus may be a bit flashy for some gardeners but they provide great late season color to the garden beds. They do well in full sun or partial shade. Their huge flowers always attract attention from people as well as hummingbirds.  The newer shorter and smaller flowered hibiscus are good for containers.  The plants are slow to start growth in the spring and many gardeners either plant over them or discard the roots thinking they have died. But if you have patience you’ll be well rewarded.

Michigan peaches

Luscious, juicy, Michigan peaches are hitting the farm markets and roadside stands.  You will of course want to let the juice run down your chin as you eat them fresh at least a few times, but peaches are an ideal fruit for preserving for those long winter days when their golden sweetness will remind you of summer. Michigan ranks 6th among the states for peach production.  We grow a nice crop on the southwest side of Michigan and in the Romeo -Utica area of southeast Michigan.   The Romeo Peach Festival begins the Thursday before Labor Day and runs through the holiday weekend.  You can see their event schedule at http://www.peachfestromeo.com/

When you shop for peaches look for good sized, fully ripe peaches without too much bruising. Peaches do not ripen after picking although they do soften a bit.  A ripe peach usually has a reddish blush over a yellow background color.  They feel slightly soft to the touch and smell very “peachy”.  Peach flesh varies from light to deep yellow depending on variety. There are also some white fleshed peaches but those are seldom seen in Michigan.   Peaches have a fuzzy skin that is usually removed before eating.

There are two main types of peaches, freestone and clingstone with advocates for both.  When cut in half a freestone peach gives up the hard pit easily.  This is the kind preferred for canning, freezing and cooking.  Clingstone peaches can also be used for all of the previous things, although the pit takes a bit more persuading to release the peach flesh.  Some people think the taste is better than freestone for fresh eating.
Peaches.  Credit Flickr 0491

If you are harvesting your own peaches pick them when they are fully ripe, then let them stand a day or two before eating or preserving for best taste.  Peaches must be stored and handled carefully to prevent bruising, which soon turns into a rotted spot.  Use peaches within a few days of picking or buying.   Do not wash them until just before use.

Nectarines are often grown and sold where peaches are sold.  They have smooth skins and can be used in place of peaches in any recipe as the taste is very similar. 
Next week- canning peaches.

Summer is getting shorter- have you had a picnic yet?
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


More Information
Strafing Horseflies
BUG BYTES posted July 31, 2014 Author(s): Joe Boggs, Ohio State University
Editor’s note- They are biting in Michigan too!  This info is applicable to Michigan.

Cindy Meyer and Joe Boggs reported that HORSE FLIES (Tabanus spp.) are on the wing in southwest Ohio.  There are several species of horse flies in Ohio ranging in size from 3/8 - 1 1/8" in length.  All are aggressive and vicious biters, but the bigger ones are particularly menacing. Female horse flies require blood meals to be able to produce eggs.  When she finds a host, the female uses her sharp, knife-like mouthparts to slash upon a wound in the skin; the mandibles of large horse flies are powerful enough to cut through tanned leather!  After opening a wound, the female injects saliva that has anticoagulation properties and she then laps up the free flowing blood.  The bite is extremely painful, and blood continues to flow from the wound even after the female finishes feeding.

Horse flies have specialized vision that allows them to see heat; they literally use thermal imaging to locate their hosts.  The flies are also able to track large moving objects, particularly dark colored objects, even while the flies are in fast flight.  Taken together, their visual acuity allows them to effectively zero in on large, savory, warm blooded animals like cows, deer, people, and of course, horses.  Unfortunately for the flies, their visual perception may also cause them to be fooled.  A dark colored moving car that has been warmed by the summer sun looks to a horse fly like a dark, galloping horse!  Horse flies swarming around moving cars can lead to catastrophic consequences ... for the flies ... with the last thing passing through the fly's minds being their rear ends.

There are a number of things you can do to keep yourself off the horse fly menu.  If possible, avoid horse fly habitat.  Their larvae feed on decaying organic matter in moist soil, so horse flies are frequently found in swamps or near streams and ponds.  If you can't avoid their habitat, schedule your activities to avoid the flies.  Horse flies are active during the day; they can't find their hosts at night.  So, evening pool parties will be free of horse flies.  If you must venture into horse fly habitat during the day, remain alert and take precautions.  Most flies are silent flyers while horse flies produce a loud, buzzing sound.  When you hear the buzz, locate the fly because horse flies love to land stealthily for a quick bite.  However, avoid running; remember that horse flies are attracted to moving objects!  Wear light clothing; dark clothing is like wearing an "eat hear" sign.  Finally, while insect repellents that contain DEET or picaridin may provide some protection, horse flies are very good at finding unprotected skin.  Long sleeves, long pants, and neckerchiefs can help to thwart the flies.


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

New- Annual Herb & Gourd Fest, September 20, 2014, 10 am - 5 pm and September 21, 2014 -11am - 5 pm at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, 1000 East Beltline Ave NE, Grand Rapids, MI 4952 (888) 957-1580.
There is not a more enjoyable weekend anywhere that you can attend where you can share your gourd art and meet guests from all over the world in this magnificent setting.  Throughout the two days we will have members demonstrating and showing some of the different techniques that they use on their gourds.  We show examples of painting, pyrography, chip carving, filigree work, coiling, weaving just to name a few, and as in past years, we have vendors selling their creations of bowls, vases, sculptures and gourd jewelry.  $12 adult admission to the park.
Kim’s note:  The Michigan Gourd Festival at Imlay City Fairgrounds will not be held this year.

New- Ann Arbor Bonsai Show-Sat. & Sun. Aug. 23 & 24, 10 am-4:30 pm Matthaei Botanical Gardens, 1800 N. Dixboro Rd. Ann Arbor, MI.
Presented by Ann Arbor Bonsai Society Share the tradition of the practice and art of bonsai at the Ann Arbor Bonsai Society annual show at Matthaei Botanical Gardens. Bonsai display, vendors, expert advice, and demonstrations. Admission: $3 per adult; under 12 free.

New- Prairie Fire Tales and Walk Sunday, August 31, 2:00 pm at Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 
Fires were commonplace on the prairies. Come hear some tales and learn how fires helped and hindered. 810-796-3200. Unless otherwise noted, the fee for programs is the regular admission, $3.00 adults, members and children 12 and under free. For the most-up-to date information, visit our website at www.sevenponds.org.

Advance Garden 4-5-6 September 13, 2014 - September 27, 2014 9:00am-1:00pm Oakland County Executive Office Conference Center, 2100 Pontiac Lake Road, 41W, Waterford, MI

This workshop is $125. The fee includes light morning refreshments each day and instructional handouts. There will be a wide variety of design exercises and a recommended garden design book list and web site used in formal and informal gardens. During this workshop, participants will develop skills in the layout of garden beds and small landscape areas using the principles of floral harmony, balance and color. The workshop takes the participants through a successive series of training stages, from simple to advanced garden design planning techniques. This is a comprehensive training class for advanced level gardeners who are interested in learning to expand their garden design skills. It is recommended that you have taken Garden Design 1-2-3 or have other garden design class experience and understand of design concepts of plant layering, spatial balance and axial symmetry. Master Gardeners will receive credit for twelve education hours for attending this 3 day workshop. Contact Linda Smith at 248-858-0887

Canning Pickles Wed, August 13, 6-9pm. Heavenly Scent Herb Farm, 13730 White Lake Rd, Fenton, MI, United States

Learn to make dill, bread-n-butter & brine pickles. Then learn to pickle garden veggies. Cost  $58.75.  810-629-9208.

Ponds & Water Gardens Sat, August 16, 10am, Rocks 'N' Roots, 62520 Van Dyke Rd, Washington, MI 48094
Free class on Ponds for the garden. Rain or shine.  Call 586-752-4900.

Art In The Garden Sat, August 23, 10am-5pm - The Display Gardens on Suncrest 1455 Suncrest Dr., Lapeer, MI.

Watch and talk to artists in the garden.  Master Gardeners will be on hand to talk about gardening techniques.  The gardens are behind the Lapeer County Medical Care facility.  FREE. 248-693-1195, www.lc-mga.org.

Herbal Summer Faire, August 23,& 24  Sat, 10am-5pm & Sun, 11am-5pm Heavenly Scent Herb Farm, 3730 White Lake Rd, Fenton, MI

148 Different Artisans~ Culinary delights, weaving-fiber art, honey, woodcraft, embellished clothing, pillows, painted slate and windows, hand-made bath products, perfume oil & incense, candles, blown glass, garden art, wildlife drawings, pressed flowers, quilts, silhouettes, wire art, beaded jewelry, natural cosmetics, greeting cards, paper crafted items, beaded amulet bags, architectural people and sterling silver necklace ladies, stain glass, Santa boxes, hand-painted items, vintage chenille garments, fused jewelry, recycled art, mixed media art, Hypertufa gardenware and hand-molded, pottery

Admission $2. Master Gardeners on hand, free children’s activities, delectable lunches & more. www.heavenlyscentherbfarm.com.

Tomato Festival -Sat, August 23, Ray Hunter Florist, 16153 Eureka Road, Southgate, MI

Downriver Tomato Festival: Join us at our Southgate location for our first annual Tomato Festival! Festivities will include tomato tastings and recipes, vegetable gardening tips, demonstrations and samples, prizes for the “Largest Tomato” and “Best Tasting Tomato,” plus a Kids’ Coloring Contest! Please register for the contests by 11:30 a.m. Judging begins at Noon. FREE. 734-284-2500.

UP Smart Gardening Conference, Oct. 4  Learn to create edible landscapes, Ramada Inn, 412 W. Washington St., Marquette, MI

Gardening enthusiasts and those interested in learning more about this type of gardening should consider attending this year’s UP Smart Gardening Conference – Edible Landscaping with Smart Gardening on Oct. 4. This is a one-day conference full of great speakers, a garden marketplace, door prizes and lunch. The early bird registration fee is good until Aug. 30. Plan now to attend and avoid a fee increase. Register online for the early bird reduced fee. http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=UPSmartGardeningConference

Cost: Early registration fee of $60.00 per participant by August 29th Late registration fee of $70.00 from Aug. 30th to Oct. 2nd . Walk in registration fee of $80.00 (Includes lunch, refreshments, door prizes, handouts)

Kent/MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden 10th anniversary celebration Saturday, October 4at 5:00pm 775 Ball Ave NE, Grand Rapids, Michigan 49503

WOW!! Ten Years Old!! Join the merriment and celebration of the tenth anniversary of the MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden at our annual fund raising auction!  Open to everyone-bring your friends. Auction items include new plants, garden tools and gadgets, beautiful local art, pottery, services and so much more.

This event is sure to please with great food, live music and “competitively fun” bidding. Get involved in the bidding excitement as we raise money to support the ongoing mission of the Grand Ideas Garden—one of Kent County’s hidden treasures!

Weeds and Herbs from the Wild -Tuesday, August 19 at 7: 00pm at Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 

The Friends of Herbs at Seven Ponds will host speaker: Jim McDonald- innovative Michigan herbalist and wildcrafter. He will share with us what herbs and weeds can be harvested during this time of year. Preregistration is required by calling 810-796-3200 to reserve your seat. Join us for a wonderful informative program, cost is $5.00 per person.



The Lapeer area Horticulture Society is looking for new members.  There are no education or experience requirements to join; only a love of gardening is needed.  The Horticulture Society meets the third Monday of each month for socializing, networking and a brief educational presentation.  August meeting is at Mayfield Township Hall.  Everyone is invited to join.  Dues are only $15 a year.  For more information on joining or meeting locations contact Bev Kobylas at bkobylas@yahoo.com

Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


Tuesday, August 5, 2014

August 5, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter



These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners
Heritage glad "Bibi"

We certainly have had the rain this summer.  It started out this spring looking like it might be dry but it changed quickly.  It could change again I suppose but for now things are getting watered pretty regularly.  I had 2/10 of an inch overnight.

I have yet to see a monarch but I have been seeing a few other butterflies.  I saw a viceroy – a butterfly that looks similar to a monarch and some beautiful ‘Silvery Blue” butterflies that I had never seen before. I hope the Monarchs do make it back.

There was a Japanese beetle in my rain gauge this morning and I saw some in the garden last night.  They are hatching a bit later this year so be on the lookout.  Fireflies have been sparking around the yard on the nights it isn’t raining.

I didn’t think birds liked tomato worms but I saw something interesting last night.  I have a wren house in the corner of my vegetable garden and a wren was perched on it last night with a big green tomato worm almost as big as her in her mouth.  Her babies were chirping loudly inside the house so I guess it was for them.  I don’t know how those tiny babies could eat such a large caterpillar but maybe the wren divides it among them somehow.
I finally bought a trail camera to see what has been visiting my barn at night and boy was I surprised at the wildlife that was coming and going.  There were several raccoons, including a mom with 3 babies, at least one huge opossum and 2 skunks, one that is almost all black except for the tip of his tail and a spot on his nose.  Now I have to decide what to do about the critters. 

Those trail cameras are inexpensive and very fun to use.  I am going to set mine by the bird feeder during the day and catch some good bird shots (hopefully).  They take a picture when they detect motion and use infra-red lights to take shots at night that the animals can’t see.  There is a little red light that glows when a picture is shot and they do sometimes notice that.  I have shots where the animal is right up against the camera looking into it.   

The gladiolas and dahlias are in bloom.  I am getting some great sweet corn although the ears are small.  We are also harvesting tomatoes and cucumbers regularly.   I have pumpkins coming along nicely but the muskmelons and watermelons have yet to set fruit- it may not be warm enough for them this year. 


August almanac

The Great Lakes Native Americans called this moons full moon (August 10th) Sturgeon moon, because that was when these large tasty fish were easily caught in the Great Lakes.  In other places this month’s full moon is known as the Green Corn moon or the blueberry moon. August‘s full moon is also a super moon, being 30% brighter than normal moons and looking larger and closer.  Unfortunately this bright moon will probably make viewing the Perseid meteor shower (August 11-14) difficult.

If you are thinking of planting a fall vegetable garden and plant by the moon phase, August 8-9th are good days to plant above ground crops and August 20-22 are good days for root crops.

The August birth flower is the gladiolus.  When glads are given to someone they signify remembrance and integrity, perhaps that is why gladiolus are frequently found in funeral arrangements.  The August birthstone is the peridot- a beautiful green gem.

August is National Peach month, National Picnic month, Family Fun month and National Catfish month.  Today is National Underwear day, with believe it or not- events held around the country, mostly trying to break records of the most people in their underwear.   The 9th is National Book Lovers day and the 10th is National Lazy Day.  The 13th is Left Handers day, the 14th is Creamsicle day and the 26th is National Dog day.  The 29th is More Herbs day. August 31st is International Bacon day.

Growing gladiolas

Gladioli are another flower that modern gardeners seem to forget.  Fifty years ago most gardeners grew glads because they were excellent cut flowers and provided color in the summer garden.   Every farmers market had people selling large bouquets of colorful glads.  Glads are still grown in mass quantities for the floral trade and used in professional arrangements but the average gardener has all but forgotten the gladiolus and that’s a shame.

Glads have the reputation of being a formal flower, and as such don’t seem to fit into the relaxed, more naturalistic gardens of today.  But there are many varieties of glads and one doesn’t have to be a wizard to weave some of them into today’s gardens with charming results.  With a huge range of colors and flower styles, glads offer everyone some of the most gorgeous flowers around for the summer garden.

Varieties of gladiolus
a humming bird favorite the glad"Atom"

There are hundreds of varieties of glads.  Choose those whose color interests you or whose size or hardiness are right for you.  That said here are some glad varieties that might interest you.  Black Beauty is a dark, red-black glad that pairs well with Sophie a pure white glad.  Nori is close to true blue with a white center.  Yellowstone is pure clear yellow.  Princess Margaret Rose is yellow with rose edges,  Coral Lace is coral pink with ruffled edges, Green Star is lime green, Jester is yellow with a red throat, Vista is shades of lavender and white.

Heritage varieties of glads allow you to grow something beautiful and keep a variety alive and thriving.  Firedance is small flowered but is a lovely peach with orange shading.  Lucky Star is a rare fragrant glad that is white with shadings of red and yellow in the throat.  Lilac and Chartreuse is those colors delightfully combined.   Atom is a small flowered red glad with each petal outlined in silver.  Boone is a cheerful small flowered yellow flushed with red.  The older smaller flowered glads are easy to blend into perennial beds. 

Hardy forms of glads are sometimes called nanus gladiolus.  They are generally white with colored throats and are small flowered.  Charming Beauty is a soft pink nanus glad.  Acidanthera are a close relative of gladiolus with narrower leaves.  The flowers are similar to nanus glads, generally white or pastel pink with darker throats, although other colors exist, and they are fragrant. 

Corm concerns

Glads are usually sold as corms, which are a bulb like structure covered with a papery brown husk.  The color of the glad flower sometimes appears as a faint tint on the inner, firm area of the corm color but you can’t rely on corm color to tell you the flower color. At best it can give you a hint of which glad is which if you mix up your varieties.

Corms are sold in the spring for spring and summer planting.  The size varies a bit between varieties, with the corms of miniature and small flowered glads being smaller on average than other glads.  Glad corms are graded by size and generally top size corms are 1¼ inch or larger across.  Smaller corms will produce flower spikes that are a bit smaller but can be economical.  Cormels are baby corms that are often attached to the mother corm when you dig them in the fall.  These tiny corms can sometimes be purchased very cheaply but they may not bloom the first year they are planted.

You can buy corms in packages in stores but these have often been subjected to warm storage conditions that promote early sprouting, rotting and mold.  You can purchase a wider range of glads that have generally been handled and stored in better conditions from catalogs or on line.   When choosing packaged glads look for firm, plump, non-moldy corms with no sprout or only a tiny sprout showing.  Avoid soft, shriveled, moldy corms and those which have long yellowish sprouts.

If you are the economical person who intends to save your glad bulbs each year you should know that the original corm will lose vigor and may not bloom well after the third season.  That’s fine because each year when you dig your glad corms for storage you should find new cormels on the bottom of the parent corm.  These will have the exact type of flower as the parent corm.  Save these and plant them and your glad varieties should last a long time.

Gladiolus have long narrow, sword like  leaves.  The size of the plants can vary from about 12 inches high to about 3 foot with the flower spikes making them even higher.  One flower spike is usually produced from each corm.  The flowers all face one direction on the spike and begin opening from the bottom and progress upward. Glad flowers are from an inch across to sometimes 3 or more inches across.  They come in every color from white to the darkest red-black and every mixture of color.  There are some glads with frilly, ruffled petal edges and some with doubled petals.  Depending on the variety glads bloom from 65-100 days after the corm is planted with good growing conditions.

Plant your corms in a sunny spot, glads prefer sandy or sandy loam soils but will do all right in heavier soils that are well drained.   Plant corms about 3 inches deep with the scar or flat side of the corn down.  Glads should not be planted outside until all danger of frost has passed.  If you are in a short season area or want early blooms you can start them inside in pots a month before the last expected frost.   You may want to plant several batches of glads two weeks apart to prolong the blooming period. 

Most people who want glads for cutting plant them in rows about 4-6 inches apart in the garden.  If you are blending them into a perennial border plant them in groups of 3-5 bulbs and make sure they won’t be covered by expanding foliage of other plants as they grow.  In windy areas you may find the taller glads will need staking or the support of a fence.  

Mix a good slow release fertilizer into the soil as you plant the glad corms.  Glads require good consistent watering to flower well.  If it doesn’t rain they need an inch of water or more, depending on soil drainage per week. Mulching plants after they are 2-3 inches tall is a good idea.  If you don’t cut the flower spike for a bouquet cut it off after it finishes blooming.  Allow the leaves to yellow and die naturally before digging the corms or removing the foliage. 

Most varieties of glads are not hardy above zone 7 although there are some varieties that are hardy to at least zone 6.  That means that if you want to save the glad corms you’ll need to dig them before the ground freezes and store them inside.  (But you don’t have to take this step if it’s too much trouble, glad corms are inexpensive and you can buy more the next year.)  If you are in zones 7 or higher simply mulch the ground over the corms with 5-6 inches of mulch before winter.  Most glads will survive the winter and return to bloom again this way.  Treat the glads sold as semi-hardy for those in zone 5-6 the same way.

For those in zone 6 and lower dig the bulbs after the leaves have yellowed or before a hard freeze.  Cut the tops off to about an inch above the corm.  Let the soil dry and brush it off the corms.  Remove any old shriveled looking corms and keep the plump new ones.  Store dry clean bulbs in net bags or paper bags, not plastic.  The crisper of the refrigerator will do fine for storage, otherwise keep them between 35-45 degrees F.

This week’s weed

Stinking Mayweed
Stinking Mayweed is a common Michigan weed of old pastures, barnyards, roadsides  and is often found in nursery pots and green houses.   It is related to and looks a lot like the herb Chamomile, but crushing the plant and smelling the unpleasant odor that gives it its common name will distinguish it.  Other common names are dog fennel and stinkweed.

Stinking mayweed is an annual plant that grows rapidly from seeds that over wintered and can cover large areas.   The leaves are fernlike and look soft but the stems are wiry and the plant has a tough taproot that makes it hard to pull.  It will remain close to the ground in dry sunny areas but can become up to 2 feet tall in moist, rich areas.

Beginning in late June stinking mayweed covers itself with small white daisy-like flowers with yellow centers.  Each flower is a 1/2 inch to an inch across.  It flowers continuously until frost, producing an abundance of tiny brown seeds.

Most animals will not eat stinking mayweed and handling the plant will give some people a rash.

Canning blueberries

In my opinion its National Blueberry month, as well as peach month.  So here are some more ways to preserve blueberries.  Peach recipes will come next week.

Blueberries are best canned in syrup or made into pie filling and canned. They can be canned in water or apple juice but the results may not be as pleasing. They can also be made into preserves or jam for canning.  It takes about 1-1/2 quarts of blueberries for 1 quart or 2 pint jars.

Can blueberries in pints or quarts, whichever size suits most of your cooking uses.    Wash jars and lids.  Sort and wash blueberries.  Bring two pots of water to boil - a large one for blanching berries and one to heat the packing liquid to boiling.  Blanch small batches of blueberries at a time by putting them into a colander and dipping them into boiling water for 30 seconds. 
         
Packing liquid choices: Water or unsweetened apple juice or syrup
To make syrup - combine 1-3/4 cups sugar with one quart water, bring to a boil and stir to dissolve sugar.

Bring packing liquid to a boil, and then keep hot. Put 1/2 cup of packing liquid into the bottom of each quart jar, 1/4 cup in each pint jar, fill jars with blanched blueberries to a 1/2 inch from the top.  Pour in hot packing liquid to 1/2 inch from the top.  Wipe the rims and put on lids and screw bands.  Process in a water bath canner for 15 minutes for pints, 20 minutes for quarts.   Cool jars and make sure they have sealed, label and store.

Blueberry Jam

This will make about 7 half pint jars.  Sterilize the jars and lids before filling and let them sit in hot water until just before filling.  Combine 9 cups of crushed blueberries with 6 cups of sugar in a large pot.  Do not add water!  Cook over low heat until the sugar dissolves, turn up heat slowly and bring to a full boil.  Cook and stir until the mixture is very thick. 

Pour the jam into hot jars to a 1/4 inch from the rim.  Wipe the rim, put on lids and tighten bands.  Process jars for 5 minutes in a water bath canner.  Cool on a towel, make sure they have sealed and label jars before storing.

Note:  A water bath canner is simply a large kettle with a rack in it for jars and a lid.   You fill it with water to 2 inches above the jars. Use warm water when adding hot jars.  Bring the water to a boil and then start counting your minutes for processing.

Get your Michigan blueberries today- you’ll be glad you did.
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


More Information

Daylily flower power! Late season care for the jewel of the garden
Summer care of daylilies will keep them strong this season and next.
Posted on July 31, 2014 by Rebecca Finneran, Michigan State University
Extension

Experts agree that perennial gardens are better when the gardener has a “lean” approach on fertilizer. Many have witnessed the “feed ‘em and weep” syndrome by adding a bit too much nitrogen in the early spring only to be rewarded with a floppy mess in August.

On the contrary, the humble daylily (a.k.a. color queen of the summer perennial display) tends to be a hungry plant which will benefit by a mid-summer top dressing of nitrogen-rich fertilizer. It is hard to calibrate how much fertilizer to apply per plant but gardeners should alter the amount based on the size of the clump. In most cases, spoon feeding with a common flower or lawn fertilizer with no weed controls will provide the added boost for the daylily to gear up for its second flush of foliage and build the root system for next year. Soluble forms of fertilizer will also provide the plant what it needs, however it is also more labor intensive. Compost provides nitrogen but the reaction time will be much slower. Water the fertilizer in as it describes on the label.

Curb Appeal
In early August, when the bulk of blooming has finished, daylilies are also plagued with leaf senescence and drop. Leaves produced in the early spring are retired by the plant and after a brief resting phase, the plant will push up new foliage that will carry it into the fall. During a hot, dry summer, this can really detract from the appearance of the daylily clump and is best removed by gently tugging it out. Some growers even clip the original foliage back by half to tidy up the plants and remove fading leaf tips. Once your plant sends up its secondary foliage, the trimmed portion will be covered up. Michigan State University Extension recommends removing the faded foliage to allow for easier weeding at the base of the plant.

With the right amount of tidying up and T.L.C., your garden will be stunning throughout the rest of the growing season.
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This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me at

New- Dr. Schutzki’s One-Day Plant Academy, August 7, 9 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Michigan State University, East Lansing, MI
Taught by Dr. Robert Schutzki, MSU Take advantage of this "1 and done" hands-on workshop, where your employees will learn everything they need to know about plants this summer.
We'll cover: Plant Identification Environmental Needs Proper Pruning Techniques General Maintenance Requirements of Specific Plants Biotic and Abiotic Problem Diagnostics This course will provide an essential knowledge base for newcomers to the industry as well as a useful refresher for industry veterans.
( open to everyone)
MNLA Member: $55 Non-Member: $85
To register: https://lansingit.wufoo.com/forms/dr-schutzkis-1day-plant-academy/
Contact: Kristin Faasse, 517-381-0437, kfaasse@mnla.org

New- Advance Garden 4-5-6 September 13, 2014 - September 27, 2014 9:00am-1:00pm Oakland County Executive Office Conference Center, 2100 Pontiac Lake Road, 41W, Waterford, MI

This workshop is $125. The fee includes light morning refreshments each day and instructional handouts. There will be a wide variety of design exercises and a recommended garden design book list and web site used in formal and informal gardens. During this workshop, participants will develop skills in the layout of garden beds and small landscape areas using the principles of floral harmony, balance and color. The workshop takes the participants through a successive series of training stages, from simple to advanced garden design planning techniques. This is a comprehensive training class for advanced level gardeners who are interested in learning to expand their garden design skills. It is recommended that you have taken Garden Design 1-2-3 or have other garden design class experience and understand of design concepts of plant layering, spatial balance and axial symmetry. Master Gardeners will receive credit for twelve education hours for attending this 3 day workshop. Contact Linda Smith at 248-858-0887

New- Canning Pickles Wed, August 13, 6-9pm. Heavenly Scent Herb Farm, 13730 White Lake Rd, Fenton, MI, United States

Learn to make dill, bread-n-butter & brine pickles. Then learn to pickle garden veggies. Cost  $58.75.  810-629-9208.

New- Ponds & Water Gardens Sat, August 16, 10am, Rocks 'N' Roots, 62520 Van Dyke Rd, Washington, MI 48094
Free class on Ponds for the garden. Rain or shine.  Call 586-752-4900.

New- Art In The Garden Sat, August 23, 10am-5pm - The Display Gardens on Suncrest 1455 Suncrest Dr., Lapeer, MI.

Watch and talk to artists in the garden.  Master Gardeners will be on hand to talk about gardening techniques.  The gardens are behind the Lapeer County Medical Care facility.  FREE. 248-693-1195, www.lc-mga.org.

New - Herbal Summer Faire, August 23,& 24  Sat, 10am-5pm & Sun, 11am-5pm Heavenly Scent Herb Farm, 3730 White Lake Rd, Fenton, MI

148 Different Artisans~ Culinary delights, weaving-fiber art, honey, woodcraft, embellished clothing, pillows, painted slate and windows, hand-made bath products, perfume oil & incense, candles, blown glass, garden art, wildlife drawings, pressed flowers, quilts, silhouettes, wire art, beaded jewelry, natural cosmetics, greeting cards, paper crafted items, beaded amulet bags, architectural people and sterling silver necklace ladies, stain glass, Santa boxes, hand-painted items, vintage chenille garments, fused jewelry, recycled art, mixed media art, Hypertufa gardenware and hand-molded, pottery

Admission $2. Master Gardeners on hand, free children’s activities, delectable lunches & more. www.heavenlyscentherbfarm.com.

New- Tomato Festival -Sat, August 23, Ray Hunter Florist, 16153 Eureka Road, Southgate, MI

Downriver Tomato Festival: Join us at our Southgate location for our first annual Tomato Festival! Festivities will include tomato tastings and recipes, vegetable gardening tips, demonstrations and samples, prizes for the “Largest Tomato” and “Best Tasting Tomato,” plus a Kids’ Coloring Contest! Please register for the contests by 11:30 a.m. Judging begins at Noon. FREE. 734-284-2500.

New - UP Smart Gardening Conference, Oct. 4  Learn to create edible landscapes, Ramada Inn, 412 W. Washington St., Marquette, MI

Gardening enthusiasts and those interested in learning more about this type of gardening should consider attending this year’s UP Smart Gardening Conference – Edible Landscaping with Smart Gardening on Oct. 4. This is a one-day conference full of great speakers, a garden marketplace, door prizes and lunch. The early bird registration fee is good until Aug. 30. Plan now to attend and avoid a fee increase. Register online for the early bird reduced fee. http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=UPSmartGardeningConference

Cost: Early registration fee of $60.00 per participant by August 29th Late registration fee of $70.00 from Aug. 30th to Oct. 2nd . Walk in registration fee of $80.00 (Includes lunch, refreshments, door prizes, handouts)

New - Kent/MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden 10th anniversary celebration Saturday, October 4at 5:00pm 775 Ball Ave NE, Grand Rapids, Michigan 49503

WOW!! Ten Years Old!! Join the merriment and celebration of the tenth anniversary of the MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden at our annual fund raising auction!  Open to everyone-bring your friends. Auction items include new plants, garden tools and gadgets, beautiful local art, pottery, services and so much more.

This event is sure to please with great food, live music and “competitively fun” bidding. Get involved in the bidding excitement as we raise money to support the ongoing mission of the Grand Ideas Garden—one of Kent County’s hidden treasures!

Weeds and Herbs from the Wild -Tuesday, August 19 at 7: 00pm at Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 

The Friends of Herbs at Seven Ponds will host speaker: Jim McDonald- innovative Michigan herbalist and wildcrafter. He will share with us what herbs and weeds can be harvested during this time of year. Preregistration is required by calling 810-796-3200 to reserve your seat. Join us for a wonderful informative program, cost is $5.00 per person.



Herb & Butterfly Garden Tours -Sunday, August 10, 2:00 pm -Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 


We have the loveliest cultivated gardens totally maintained by volunteer gardeners. This is a walk suited for those who cannot venture too far from the center. Non-members- $3.00 adults, members and children 12 and under free.  (Tour is being conducted by park naturalists.)



Cool Plants for Shady Areas- Sat, August 9, 10am English Gardens, all locations (Ann Arbor, East Pointe, Clinton Twps., Dearborn Heights, Royal Oak, Commerce Twps., West Bloomfield  call 1-800-335-Grow

Creating a beautiful garden is possible even in the shade.  This program will cover basic information on planning, planting and maintaining flowers and plants in the shade. Special emphasis will be given on perennials. FREE. www.EnglishGardens.com.

The Lapeer area Horticulture Society is looking for new members.  There are no education or experience requirements to join; only a love of gardening is needed.  The Horticulture Society meets the third Monday of each month for socializing, networking and a brief educational presentation.  August meeting is at Mayfield Township Hall.  Everyone is invited to join.  Dues are only $15 a year.  For more information on joining or meeting locations contact Bev Kobylas at bkobylas@yahoo.com

Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com