Hardy Hibiscus

If you like gaudy, showy, outrageously flashy flowers then hardy hibiscus is the plant you want to grow. Rose Mallow, as it is often called, is native to the wetlands of the American southeast, which gives the plant another common name, Swamp Mallow.

The huge, saucer shaped blooms have a tropical flare, but don’t confuse them with the tropical hibiscus; these are hardy to at least zone 5. Most gardeners will find hardy hibiscus easy to grow and a glorious finale of late summer color in the garden. 

Hardy Hibiscus plants are superb for marshy, wet areas, poolside and rain garden plantings. Smaller varieties make impressive container plants.  The flowers are attractive to bees, butterflies and hummingbirds also.

Hibiscus moscheutos, the hardy hibiscus, is often confused with Rose of Sharon, or with tropical hibiscus. They are often all mixed together in garden shops. Rose of Sharon is also hardy, but the plants have woody stems, which survive the winter, and the blooms are smaller. Tropical hibiscus has large flowers but the leaves are different, smaller and lobed, and the flowers are often shades of yellow, and orange or doubled. The leaves of hardy hibiscus are broadly triangular in most varieties, and the flowers of hardy hibiscus do not come in true yellow and orange and are generally single.  

There is an Asian species of hibiscus, Hibiscus mutabilis, hardy to about zone 7, that does have double flowers and leaves shaped like maple leaves. It is sometimes called Confederate Rose Mallow. The Confederate Rose Mallow has broad, lobed leaves somewhat like a maple. To add to the confusion this species has been crossbred with H. moscheutos, producing interesting varieties for gardeners, but still more confusion in the garden shop. Hybrids may have purple leaves that are 3 lobed, somewhat like a Japanese maple leaf. If you are looking for true hardy hibiscus, check the plant label for zone hardiness and a Latin name.

The flowers of hardy hibiscus are round and flat, ranging from 6 inches to more than a foot across. They are shiny, with prominent veins radiating out from the center and a sort of crepe paper look. Hardy hibiscus has enlarged stamens and pistils in the center of the flower, often in a ring of contrasting color.  Colors of hardy hibiscus range from white through shades of pink and red, including a plum red that is almost purple. While there is one variety that claims to be yellow, it is a very pale cream color at best.  Many flowers have a ring of darker color in the center. Each flower is open only a day, but mature plants with plenty of moisture produce enough flowers to make a long show, usually blooming from late summer to frost.

Growing Hardy Hibiscus

Hardy hibiscus or Rose Mallow can be started from seeds and if started early indoors, may bloom the first year. The seeds are slow to germinate and need to be kept constantly warm and moist. Start them at least 2 months before your last frost and transplant outside after all danger of frost has passed.  Hardy hibiscus is also sold as a potted plant, or as dormant root pieces. Potted hibiscus should be planted in the ground soon after you buy them, at least six weeks before your first fall frost, for best survival of the first winter.

Hibiscus prefers full sun and moist soil. They will grow and even bloom in part shade, although the plants won’t be as full and flowering stems may need staking. Some varieties will require staking even in full sun, especially in windy areas. Hardy hibiscus plants produce several stems from the ground that may reach 5 foot tall or greater in moist, sunny areas.

Rose Mallow isn’t fussy about soil, but that soil should be kept well watered; the plants will thrive in rain gardens or marshy areas. A slow release fertilizer can be used in the spring as shoots emerge.

Hardy hibiscus dies to the ground in the winter. The location of the plants should be well marked as they are very slow to start growth again in the spring, waiting until the soil reaches about 70 degrees before sprouting new growth.  This late start is why zone 5 is about the limit for growing hardy hibiscus, they may survive zone 4 winters but not have time to bloom before frost.

Some named varieties

Disco Belle comes in white, pink and red flowers. The plants are compact at 2-3 foot with 9 inch flowers.  Southern Belle is larger, at 4-5 foot high, and has flowers 10-11 inches wide in a range of pink, red and white.  ‘Kopper King’ is one of the hybrids, it has purple foliage and huge, light pink flowers with a red eye and red veining. ‘ Crown Jewels’ also has the purple foliage but on a more compact 3-4 foot high plant, and white flowers with a red eye that are about 6 inches across. ‘Moy Grande’ is a huge hibiscus, plants may reach more than 5 foot tall and the rosy red flowers are over 12 inches across.  ‘Old Yella’ is the closet to yellow hibiscus, actually a creamy white, 10 inch flower on a 4 foot plant. ‘Plum Crazy’ has deep, plum-red, 10 inch flowers on a compact 3-4 foot plant with purple foliage.  

Growing and Using Oregano

Oregano is an excellent culinary herb and has ornamental and medicinal properties also. It is a close cousin to marjoram, which is not hardy in Michigan. Without getting into all the fine points of the matter, marjoram is a species of oregano, and both are in the mint family. 

Oregano variety Zorba Red

Like most mints, oregano has square stems. The oval leaves may be hairy in some varieties of oregano, and the flowers range from white to purple- red.   The flowers appear in clusters at the end of stems in late summer.  Several ornamental varieties of oregano have been developed; check the zone hardiness of these before purchasing.  Common oregano is winter hardy to at least zone 5 and it is a robust grower, spreading by seed and runners. 

Oregano is one of the Mediterranean herbs that prefer sunny, dry conditions to develop the best taste.  It needs full sun and well drained soil to do its best.   Oregano seldom has pests and requires little or no fertilization.  Large clumps of oregano should be divided every 3-4 years.  Give the plants you don’t want to friends. 

Oregano can be started from seed, either where it is to grow after danger of frost has passed, or in pots. It is easily started from cuttings or dividing mature plants.  Most gardeners will want to start with plants grown from cuttings of good specimens of oregano as there is a wide variation in plants grown from seed, both in size and form, and in taste. Unless you are growing an ornamental flowering variety of oregano, keep the flowers of oregano trimmed off.  This keeps the plants producing the young tender leaves that are best for cooking.

Using oregano

Oregano is high in anti-oxidants and vitamins and has antibacterial properties also, using it in recipes could improve your health.  Oregano has a sharp, spicy, robust flavor that is preferred in Italian, Greek, mid eastern and Latin American cooking.  It is often used in tomato dishes, seafood and grilled meats. What would pizza sauce be without oregano?

Harvest fresh leaves from oregano when there is enough foliage so that you don’t need to harvest more than a third of the plant at a time.  Whole oregano plants can be pulled in the fall and hung to dry, then the dried leaves removed and stored. You can also dry oregano leaves any time during the growing season. The flavor of oregano remains strong when dried.

Oregano varieties with showy flowers are used in perennial borders, on sunny banks and in containers. They are very attractive to bees and can be used to attract pollinators to the garden.

Teas using oregano are said to aid digestion. The flower heads of oregano were formerly used both as a dye plant, giving a pale purple dye, and in making beer.  They are also used as flavorings for wine and vinegar. New research with oregano focuses on its anti-microbal, antibacterial properties.  A film made with an extract from oregano and apples is being tested on foods like poultry to prevent salmonella contamination.

Some varieties

Oregano, Origanum vulgare, comes in many varieties.   Greek oregano, hardy to zone 5, and Kaliteri oregano, hardy to zone 6,( protect with mulch or grow in a protected place in Michigan),  are two good culinary choices.    Kent Beauty oregano has large attractive rose- purple flowers, fairly good oregano taste and is hardy to zone 6.  The Zorba oreganos were developed for their large, attractive flower sprays of white or red.  They bloom continuously through the summer, have an attractive full plant form, fairly good flavor, and are hardy to zone 5. 

Rex Begonias

Rex begonias are a great plant to brighten up the winter.  As a houseplant their colorful foliage will add zest to the windowsill.  And they can be moved outside in summer to bring color to shady containers and baskets.

Rex begonias have large leaves, generally pointed, although rounded and other shaped leaves are not uncommon.  The leaves are thick and wrinkled looking and come in a variety of stunning colors and patterns.  Some plants can reach a foot high and some plants have been bred that stay quite small.

Rex begonia are great collectors plants because there are hundreds of varieties for sale.  You’ll have a hard time picking just one plant to grow.

Growing conditions

Rex begonias are relatively easy to grow except for one requirement.  They need humid conditions to keep leaves from getting crispy edges and eventually falling off.  If you have a well lit bathroom Rex begonias may thrive there.  They may also do well over the kitchen sink. 

If you don’t use a humidifier in the house in the winter you can place the rex begonia in a shallow tray of water with stones or marbles in the bottom to keep the pot bottom above the water line.  Grouping Rex begonias with other plants also helps with humidity.  Misting the plants doesn’t work well as Rex begonias will get spots on the leaves from water sitting on them.

Rex begonias like bright light but not direct sunlight.  An east or north windowsill will generally work or place them about a foot away from a south or west window. Good, strong light brings out the best leaf color.  In the summer outside they need shade.  Rex begonias can also be grown under artificial light.

Plant the Rex begonia in good, light potting soil or use an African violet soil.  Keep the soil moist but don’t let the pot get waterlogged.   While Rex begonias like moisture and humidity their roots also need some air.

Fertilize lightly beginning in March in Michigan through September, maybe once a month. Don’t over fertilize, as foliage plants, Rex begonias don’t need much fertilizer.   Keep dead leaves picked off.  Plants may go through a period of adjustment when moved, especially from a humid greenhouse or from outdoors into a drier indoor location.  Some plants will even go dormant.

If the Rex begonia does seem to drop all its leaves and die down to soil level all may not be lost.  Put the pot in a clear plastic bag and set it out of direct light for a few weeks.  Check from time to time to see how moist the soil is and add a little water if it is very dry.  After a month or so- or sooner if you notice new growth, take the plant out into bright light and resume watering.

Like most begonias, Rex begonias flower.  However this species of begonia does not have very showy flowers and you will probably want to clip out the flower stems that peek out from the center so the plant concentrates on producing its showy leaves.

Rex Begonia propagation

Rex begonias are one of the few plants that propagate readily through the leaves.  You can remove a young leaf and stem and insert the stem into a moist pot of planting medium.  Place the pot in a clear plastic bag in bright indirect light and keep moist.  Wait for a new plant to form at the leaf base. Or you can get many plants from one leaf using this method.

Find a wide container that a large leaf can lay flat on.  Flip a Rex begonia leaf over and make small cuts across several of the large veins.  Don’t cut all the way through the leaf.  With a cotton swab rub some rooting powder- found in houseplant supplies- on each cut. 

Fill the container with moist potting medium.  Place the leaf on it cut side down and weigh down the leaf with small pebbles, metal nuts or some other small item so that the cut vein contacts the soil.  Place in a clear plastic bag in bright indirect light and wait for new plants to form at the leaf surface by each cut.

These wonderful plants are a great way to share plants between several plant lovers.  Each gardener can buy a different variety and start new plants to trade with other gardeners.   Even if you keep all of your plant babies you’ll enjoy the color the Rex begonia brings to dull plant collections.

February 11, 2014 Kim's Weekly Garden Newsletter

Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter February 11, 2014

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Anthurium andreanum- Wikipedia

Hello Gardeners

If we are worrying about how this wicked weather is affecting our plants think about the poor gardeners in the south.  Their gardens have plants that are far more sensitive to cold than ours do and they are getting walloped with cold, ice and snow this year.  They are also having wide swings in temperature which is very hard on plants.

Greenhouse growers must be struggling to pay heating bills this year and I think we may see some shortages, high prices and smaller plants this spring.  If you can grow some of your own plants from seed or cuttings this spring you may be doing yourself a favor.

 

I have lost some of the plants I over winter on my porch because it simply got too cold for too long out there.  I am really nervous about what damage is being done to my plants under the snow by mice and voles and by rabbits at the snow line since it’s a tough winter for critters.  Time will tell.  I hope it flies by until warm weather gets here.  I am interpreting the weather forecast as indicating a change in weather patterns may be coming soon and we will get back to at least normal winter weather.  Normal winter weather would have us with highs slightly above freezing on the average.  Only 39 days until calendar spring!

Since its Valentine’s Day Friday I have included some articles with Valentine themes.  I have also included an article I wrote last year about plants that promote “love” in the more information section.  To the several new subscribers to this newsletter thanks and welcome.

Anthuriums

While some people give red roses as a Valentines flower some are a bit more mischievous and give anthuriums instead.  Anthuriums are also known as Boy Flowers because the “flower” of the plant has a resemblance to male anatomy.  Other common names for the anthurium include Flamingo flower and Tail flower.  Anthuriums may be found as potted plants around Valentine’s Day (and at other times) or the flowers may be found in distinctive floral arrangements.  In the language of flowers the anthurium flower is said to mean hospitality.

There are more than 130 species of anthuriums but few are found in cultivation.  Two species of anthuriums; Flamingo Flower (Anthurium Scherzianum) and Painter's Palette (Anthurium Andreanum) and some hybrids of these are sold as flowering houseplants.   Some species of anthuriums are also used as foliage plants in the homes and greenhouses of collectors who can afford the pricy and finicky plants.  Florida and the Netherlands produce most of the flowering potted anthuriums. 

Hawaii produces great quantities of cut anthuriums for the florist trade, varieties with large flowers and strong stems.  In Hawaii some gardeners also grow various species of anthuriums outside.  Hawaii greenhouses and nurseries also produce many of the foliage species of anthuriums that collectors covet. 

Boy Flower anatomy

Anthurium scherzianum - wikipedia

The anthurium “flower” is actually a modified leaf, or bract.  In most species it is an elongated heart or hood shape and is colored red or orange in color. This bract is called a spathe.  Species of cultivated anthuriums have now been developed that have pink, yellow, purple, white and variegated spathes but red is still the most popular.   The spathe is thick with a waxy, shiny look that looks almost artificial.

At the base of the spathe a long spike called a spadix pokes upward.   The spadix is closely packed with the tiny true flowers of the anthurium.  These flowers have both male and female parts.  Spadix flowers are usually yellow or white.   Each flower will eventually turn into a fleshy berry with two seeds inside.

Anthurium foliage is also attractive.  The leaves are heart shaped, deep green and shiny in the species kept as flowering houseplants.  But some rarer anthuriums have velvety leaves, or broader leaves marked with beautiful vein patterns.  Most of the foliage anthuriums are difficult to grow in normal household conditions and require a greenhouse and dedicated gardener.

Growing conditions

Most anthuriums come from tropical areas of Central and South America.  They are often epiphytes or “air” plants in nature although some species grow in the ground.  Most species are sprawling or vine-like.  The anthuriums cultivated as houseplants are grown in a coarse, well drained media in pots. 

If kept in good light, warm, lightly fertilized and watered correctly anthuriums will actually bloom for long periods or if in perfect conditions almost continuously.  They can be a bit tricky as a houseplant and are not for those indoor gardeners who practice benign neglect.

The suggested medium for anthuriums in cultivation is equal parts of peat, perlite and shredded bark.  A potting mix for orchids will work.    (In Hawaii anthuriums are sometimes grown in macadamia nut hulls. ) Plants should be kept slightly root bound, which means the pot should not be much bigger than the root system.  When you buy a potted anthurium it will probably not need re-potting for a year or two.

Anthuriums need bright but indirect light.  They will flourish in an east window or a few inches from south or west windows.  Strong direct sun will burn the leaves.  They must be kept above 65 degrees F. for good flowering but below 90 degrees F.  Keep them out of drafts.   Plants need to be kept above 45 degrees F. to survive.

Humidity is essential to flowering and good looking foliage in anthuriums.  If you don’t use a humidifier in the home the anthurium pot should probably be set over a tray of water and misted frequently.  But while they like humidity they absolutely cannot stand over watering.  They should be watered well and then allowed to dry out just slightly but not to the point of wilting, before watering again.  Brown ends on the foliage and flower spathe mean the humidity is too low or that you are over or under watering.

Anthuriums require light but continuous fertilization to bloom.  Slow release fertilizer is usually incorporated into commercial potting mixes that plants are potted in for sale and so you probably won’t need to fertilize for a month after purchase.  After that you can use a fertilizer with a low nitrogen ratio such as 7-9-5 either in a slow release granular form or as a liquid at every other watering.  Many growers suggest a flowering houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength.

The Flamingo Flower or Painter’s Palette anthriums get about 2 foot high and wide at maturity.  These species or similar hybrids are relatively easy to find in places that sell potted house plants.  Make sure they are well protected from the cold as you transport them home.    Other species of anthuriums can be found in specialty stores and catalogs but can be very expensive.  

Anthurium plant parts are poisonous and handling the plants may also give some people a rash.

 For the gardener in your life a Valentine’s Day gift of a Boy Flower may make the day special.  And if you opt instead for a floral arrangement featuring anthurium flowers you are giving a special gift that can last for weeks.

Marijuana variety developed for cooking oil

Hemp

The University of York (UK) has developed a hemp variety which produces an oil high in oleic acid when the seeds are crushed.  This hemp oil is similar in nutritive value and taste to olive oil and has a higher “thermal threshold” which means it is better for cooking than olive oil.  This special variety of hemp yields oil with 5 times more mono-unsaturated/low poly-unsaturated fatty acid than regular hemp oil. The oil may also have industrial uses.  

Hemp is easy to grow and suffers from fewer diseases and insects than rape seed (canola oil).  The straw left after the seeds are harvested can be used for animal bedding, textiles, and biomass fuel.  UK farmers are excited that they will soon be able to grow another profitable crop.   Field trials begin this year.   No word if the cooking oil has any mind altering effects.

How the climate tamed corn

Botanists have long wondered why man ever domesticated teosinte, the wild grass that domesticated corn was developed from.  In the wild teosinte has a many branching top with seeds or kernels that ripened slowly over many months.  The wild teosinte doesn’t have many traits that would seem to make it a good crop.   But the theory was that over time, man selected teosinte plants with certain characteristics that eventually developed into what we now know as corn.    We thought we knew what ancient teosinte plants looked like because teosinte stills grows wild today.

Teosinte

However new research now reveals that when man began selecting teosinte to grow it may have looked much more like corn than wild teosinte plants look like today.  When researchers took seed from wild teosinte and grew it in climate controlled greenhouses that mimicked the atmospheric conditions 10,000 years ago, cooler and with half the carbon dioxide of today’s atmosphere,  they got a surprise.  The teosinte produced seeds much more like our current corn, with a more condensed ripening time and stockier, more productive plants.  This teosinte which grew in the climate our ancestors inhabited, would have been much more interesting to humans as a crop plant.

With all we are currently learning about how outside influences modify genes in an organism  we may have to re-think why some plants and animals became domesticated.   Man did use selective breeding to improve crops and animals without a doubt.  But it may be that climate change was more of a factor in what species became domesticated than we realize. 

This information came from a report by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute.

Facts about Chocolate

Chocolate and Valentine’s Day go hand in hand, (even though more chocolate is sold at Halloween than at any other time).  February is also heart health month and chocolate is great for heart health.  Chocolate is high in antioxidants and decreases inflammation in the blood vessels, which lowers blood pressure and promotes good cardiac health.  Research shows that if you eat a small amount of dark chocolate every day you will decrease your risk of heart problems by one third. 

People who are depressed often crave chocolate and for good reason.  Chocolate contains chemicals that lighten your mood and “sweeten” the pleasure centers of your brain.   Other medical research has found that chocolate boosts memory, attention span and problem solving skills.  Some research suggests chocolate improves insulin sensitivity and that chocolate may improve eyesight in low light situations.  German research says that flavonoids in chocolate help the skin by absorbing UV light and increasing blood flow to the skin, protecting skin cells and making the skin long younger.

Chocolate is the only solid edible that melts at 93 degrees, just below your body temperature, which means it melts in your mouth.   If you are choosing a wine to go with a chocolate dessert or that box of candy, choose a red wine.  Surprisingly Americans are only 11^th in the average amount of chocolate consumed by citizens each year.  Switzerland is first, with Australia and Ireland next in line.

It takes 400 cacao beans to produce a pound of pure chocolate and between 40-50 million people across the world have jobs based on the chocolate industry.   The most expensive chocolate in the world is said to be “Madeleine” which is made by Fritz Knipschildt of Knipschildt Chocolatier in Connecticut.

Chocolate is a plant based product with immense health benefits and should be considered a vegetable!

Happy Valentine’s Day, I hope you get chocolate for your heart.

Kim Willis

 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Plants that Promise Passion

Hibiscus

By Kim Willis- Published 2/2013 at Examiner.com

Valentine’s Day is this week and you may be wondering what kind of gift you could bring someone to make him or her love you more in many senses of the word. Jewelry and flowers may evoke warm feelings but some people are looking for something more, let’s say, efficient.

Some of the earliest written herbals contain references to plants that have aphrodisiac properties and potions that are said to bring true love. Many think that chocolate is a popular Valentines treat because it enhances sexual desire but modern science has proven that chocolate doesn’t have an effect on actual sexual performance. It does however affect the pleasure areas of the brain and causes people to feel happier. And since desire is largely produced in the brain bringing someone a box of chocolate isn’t a waste of time, not only does it show you care but it makes the recipient happy. Interestingly in Japan women send chocolate to men on Valentine’s Day. Just don’t mention to your love that Aztec prostitutes were paid in cacao beans.

However there are some common plants, (herbs) that you may have in the house or yard that do enhance desire and sexual performance. The scientific community has been exploring plant pharmaceuticals intensively lately and there is great interest in finding a substitute for the “little blue pill” which has so many deadly side effects. So if you want your Valentine to love you more in every way you may want to try some of these plants that recent science has confirmed could enhance your love life.

Nutmeg,( Myristica fragrans) has long been used in magic love potions and since a chemical found in nutmeg, myristicin, is used to produce the illegal street drug ecstasy it was no wonder that animal tests found that it enhanced male sexual performance. Studies on females have not been done but folklore and common practice suggest that is also effective on females. Mace is another spice from the same plant and is said to have similar effects. In the amounts you would use in foods or teas nutmeg would not be harmful or have bad side effects; however you can overdose on the street drug and it isn’t recommended.

Both garlic and garlic chives were found in animal studies to have aphrodisiac effects. If you can find a way to slip them into a Valentine meal you could improve your love life and your health since garlic has many other health benefits.

Saffron, a spice made from the sexual organs of a type of crocus (Crocus sativus) has also been found to enhance sexual performance in animal studies. These studies typically use male animals and an aqueous extract of saffron but herbal lore suggests use of the spice in cooking is also helpful.

Two common garden weeds have recently been evaluated for their love enhancing abilities. Lambsquarters, (Chenopodium album) and Beggers ticks, Stick tights or Tickweed (Bidens frondosa) have both been shown to have significant aphrodisiac abilities in recent scientific studies. In animal studies extracts of the herbs were used. The seeds of lambsquarters are used in herbal remedies and were dried and ground into flour by Native Americans. The young greens are also eaten as a spinach substitute. The bark of the stems of Sticktight ( Bidens) was the part used in studies. It could possibly be made into a tea.

Goji berry or Wolfberry is being touted as the next wonder food and among its good properties is apparently the ability to increase sexual hormones. Several garden catalogs are offering Goji berry plants for sale and they are said to grow as far north as Zone 5. If you are in a hurry to obtain the benefits of Goji there are many juices and other products on the market, probably in your local store.

Common tea (Camellia sinensis) had a marked aphrodisiac effect on rats. Perhaps that’s why the English preferred tea as a drink. Tea has been used as a drink for many centuries and it seems that if people were getting a love boost from it that effect would be well known. Maybe a little tea spiced with nutmeg would be an improvement.

Damiana is an herb you can grow although it may be hard to find locally. It has proven aphrodisiac qualities. Dried leaves of damiana are smoked or made into a tea. Read my article about it here.

http://www.examiner.com/article/growing-damiana-the-herb-of-love-michigan

Other common plants that have some scientific validity as aphrodisiacs include Maypops or Passionfruit, (Passiflora incarnate), panax ginsing, yohimbe, velvet beans (Mucuna pruriens), and African basil (Ocimum gratissimum).

If a stimulating massage oil is desired Ylang-ylang and rosewood ( not rose) essential oil mixed with coconut oil is said to be very exciting to women. Just smelling Ylang ylang is said to increase sexual desire in women. Maybe you guys out there might want to dab it behind your ears. (This hasn’t been proven scientifically, it’s just folklore.)

If you decide to experiment with a love potion this Valentine’s Day use a little caution as people can have an allergic reaction to anything. It’s a good idea to tell a person what they are being fed. Many of these herbs would probably take days of treatment to work and most studies used concentrated extracts that are hard to duplicate at home. Still a little imagination may work wonders as after all, love and desire are strongly seated in the brain.

Events, classes and other offerings

Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me at kimwillis151@gmail.com

"Practical Knowledge for the Avid Gardener"  St. Clair County Master Gardeners Annual Spring Symposium Saturday, March 22, 2014, Cornerstone Church, 4025 North Road, Clyde, MI 48049.

Speakers include Dan Heims, Pearl Fryar, David Culp & Fergus Garrett. Early Bird Registration is $80.00 and includes all speakers, breakfast, lunch snacks and shopping. After February 21 the cost will be $90. Contact sanderan51@yahoo.com. for a brochure.

2014 Know and Grow Seminar- Saturday, February 22nd, 2014 - 8:15AM, Bullock Creek High School Auditorium, 1420 Badour Rd. Midland, MI 48640. Early registration fee: $60.00,  After February 7th, 2014  $75.00

This seminar is hosted by the Midland Master Gardener Association. It includes speakers Rick Darke “Balancing Natives and Exotics in the Garden”, Dan Heims “Garden Gems”, and Janet Macunovich “Pluses and Minuses of Gardening in Zone 5”  .  There is a garden marketplace and lunch is included in the cost.

Get a registration flyer and more info at http://media.wix.com/ugd/a6644a_813a73b611d74331a99e3e7512baa553.pdf

To REGISTER BY PHONE call Dow Gardens at 631-2677 or  1-800-362-4874. Please have your credit card information ready.

Getting Started with Selling at Farmers Markets Webinar- February 19, 7:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.  Cost $10.00

This two-hour Adobe Connect webinar is part of the ongoing “2014 Beginning Farmer Webinar Series.” MSU Extension educator Julia Darnton will present information for those interested in selling their product successfully at a farmers market. Topics covered will include: choosing farmers markets at which to sell, negotiating the rules and regulations of a market, market governance, creating a connection with customers, setting up a stall as well as resources for practical tips on tents, tables, displays, and cash handling. Questions and discussion will take place through the webinar ‘chat’ function. Supporting written materials will be available for download during and after the webinar.  A recording of the webinar will be made available to registered participants.

Visit the Getting Started with Selling at Farmers Markets registration page http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=GettingStartedFarmersMarket

 for more information. Or you can contact Julia Darnton: darntonj@anr.msu.edu or 989-758-2507

Establishing A Rain Garden – Matthaei Botanical Gardens, 1800 N. Dixboro Rd. Ann Arbor, MI 48105   Feb.12, 2014, 6:45 pm to 8:30 pm

Susan Bryan, Rain Garden Coordinator for the Washtenaw County Water Resources Commissioner's Office, discusses the benefits of rain gardens for the home garden and how they help our rivers and streams. Program also includes how to build and plant one at home using readily available tools. Presented by Wild Ones Ann Arbor. Free. Call 734-647-7600 for more information.

Third Annual Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Academy - Feb. 18-19, 2014, at the Okemos Conference Center in Okemos, Mich., located just outside of East Lansing, Michigan

The 2014 IPM Academy is a two-day workshop packed full of information to help you improve your IPM practices and take advantage of all the great resources MSU has to offer. The presenters at this program include a number of MSU’s best and brightest research and Extension faculty, offering a rare opportunity to hear from experts working in a variety of disciplines and cropping systems at a single event.

The first day of the program will cover fundamental topics, including IPM strategies for disease and insect control; promoting and protecting pollinators; alternative weed control strategies; pesticide basics; the impacts of weather on pesticides; invasive pests; and IPM resources from MSU. On the second day of the workshop, participants opt into two, half-day sessions focused on the topic of their choice.

The cost of this event is $225. Please note that snacks, lunch and parking are included. Participants also receive a notebook with program material and a complimentary IPM-related MSU bulletin. Michigan pesticide recertification credits and Master Gardener credits will be available.

Newsletter information

If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.

Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com

February 4, 2014-Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter February 4, 2014

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Ismene- Photo by Christine Haworth

Hi Gardeners

Another storm is blowing in tonight.  Hopefully this one will spare us from deep snow but at this point any snow is unwelcome.  February has always been my least favorite month and this one doesn’t look like it’s going to change my mind.   I am glad I am no longer making those long trips on Saturdays to teach Master Gardener classes although I do miss discussing gardening with eager enthusiastic people.

The groundhog saw his shadow which means 6 more weeks of winter but that shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone.  Spring can’t come fast enough for me and I know many of you feel the same.  I just need to sit in the sun- I did for a short time yesterday- and sun is in such short supply this year.  At least I have my canaries singing to cheer me up.

Last year my notes say that this week in Feb. was pretty cold but by the 10^th it was 45 degrees and from then on through the month almost every day was above freezing.  March wasn’t real warm last year but most days were above freezing and it was in the 50’s  at the end of the month.  Let’s hope this year starts to be like last real soon.

If you are willing to brave the cold and deep snow you could start pruning any fruit trees that need it.  You could also prune any damaged trees.  But I think you can safely wait a few weeks in this weather to get those trees pruned.  Instead concentrate on cleaning up and re-potting house plants, starting cuttings and seeds and ordering new plants and seeds.

February Almanac

The names for the full moon in February, (the 14^th), reflect the bleakness associated with the month.  It is called the Full Snow moon, Hunger moon and Bone moon among other things.  Jupiter can be seen just above the moon on the 10^th and Saturn is just above the moon on the 22^nd .  The bright star near the moon most of the month is Regulus.

Good days for planting above ground crops are 1,2, 10,11 and below ground crops,  20, 21.   If you want to go ice fishing try now through the 14^th.  

February is National Adopt a Rescued Rabbit Month, American Heart Month, Marijuana Awareness Month, National Bird Feeding Month, National Cherry Month, National Grapefruit Month, and National Bake for Your Family Month.

Tomorrow, the 5^th  is National Pancake Day.  Friday, February 7 is Wear Red Day.  (Now why didn’t they combine that with Valentine’s day?  Do we wear red because we are seeing red because of all the snow and ice?)  The 12^th is Lincolns Birthday, Darwin Day and also Plum Pudding day.  The 14^th is Valentine’s Day as well as National Condom day, and for those who don’t celebrate Valentine’s day, it’s also National Library Day.  The 15^th is Susan B. Anthony’s Birthday.  Then we observe Presidents Day on the 17^th.   Tortilla Chip day is the 24^th, National Pistachio day is the 27^th .  And the last day of the month is National Public Sleeping Day, have fun with that.

The February birth flower is the violet, which symbolizes faithfulness, humility and chastity.  African violets are being featured in many stores in February and make a good gift for a gardener.  The February birthstone is the Amethyst.

As a young gardener I collected many different colors of violets and had a violet collection in the backyard of our home.  I still have several types and colors of violets in my gardens and this spring I have decided to add some more unusual ones.   Here’s an article that might encourage you to add violets to the garden.

Common violet.  Notice round leaves.

Growing Violets- the February ‘birth” flower.

Violets and violas can be found both in gardening handbooks and in weed identification books, proof that one man’s weed is another man’s flower.  These pretty flowers have been grown in gardens for centuries, even if they were never planted there! 

Both violets and violas grow in many locations across the world, although most prefer cooler areas.  Many varieties escape cultivation and become pests.  But how can you dislike such perky invaders?  There are only slight differences in violets and violas and all violets belong to the viola family.  Violet leaves are generally round or heart shaped.   Viola leaves are more oblong, and usually have serrated edges.

Both violets and viola flowers have five petals and a flower “spur” or tube at the back which contains nectar.  Most violet flowers are very fragrant, some violas however, have little scent.  The flowers are favorites of bees and butterflies.  Many violets and violas also have markings on the petals that direct the pollinator to the honey spur, when they find the treasure they also pollinate the plant.  

Violets and violas also have another type of flower, rarely seen.  It generally appears at the base of the plant in the fall, has no petals and no scent.  It is thought to be pollinated by ground beetles and can produce many seeds.

Using violets in the garden

Violets and violas make excellent, fast growing groundcovers in partial shade.  They can be planted in rock and alpine gardens.  They will quickly cover an area if you let them, so care and forethought should be used in selecting a site to plant them in.   Violets make excellent container plants, good for cool season color.  

While they will grow in heavy shade, violets and violas both require at least a few hours of sunlight or dappled shade for the best bloom.    They will also grow in sunny areas, if they are kept well watered.

Common violets and Labrador violets are hardy to zone 3- some varieties from Asia and southern Europe are not as hardy, so check the zone hardiness before planting.  While most violets and violas are considered perennials, individual plants are not long lived.  Most varieties of violets and violas, however, spread by rhizomes and seed quite happily, and after you plant them in a suitable place, you should have them for many years.

Violet care

Violets are usually purchased as plants.  They can be planted at any time of the year as long as they are kept moist.  While violets like fertile, loose, well-drained soil the common violet will grow just about anywhere it isn’t too hot and dry. 

Violets are rarely started from seed.  The seed can be sown outside where they are to grow as soon as the soil can be worked.  Violet seed can also be started inside about 12 weeks before you want blooming plants.  The seed is very fine and should not be covered with soil, just lightly pressed into the soill surface and kept moist.

Violets bloom best in cool weather.  During hot weather they will quit blooming but will resume bloom again when the weather cools.  Keep dead blooms picked off to encourage a longer bloom time. Wild species seldom need fertilizing but domesticated varieties of violets appreciate an early spring application of a slow release fertilizer.   Violets are bothered by few pests or diseases.  Common violets will stand occasional mowing and naturalized violets can be mowed after spring blooming has faded.   Lightly fertilize them in early fall and cease mowing for fall bloom.

Viola- notice leaves.

Some varieties of violets

The common violet , viola odorata, appears in many color variations, even in the wild.  There are white, rose, bi-colored, blue and various shades of purple that we call violet.  This violet is also known as Sweet Violet, and during Victorian times many large flowered varieties were developed for cut flowers and for the perfume trade.  Some of these varieties still exist and are sold in specialty catalogs.   Queen Charlotte has large, deep purple flowers.   Governor Herrick has purple flowers with long stems for cutting. White Czar has large white flowers.  Bride’s White has smaller white flowers, lightly blushed with pink.  Classy Pink is a newer variety and has deep pink flowers.

Double flowered violets are so pretty and very fragrant but many are only hardy to zone 7.  They can be grown in pots and taken inside to a cool room in the winter, where they can bloom off and on all winter.  Two great ones are Comte de Brazza, white, and Duchesse de Parme- light violet colored.

Birds Foot Violet is native to North American woodlands.  It has a pretty lilac and white flower and oddly lobed leaves, said to resemble bird’s feet.   Another North American native, known as the Woods Violet, has yellow flowers.  The Labrador violet has pretty purple shaded foliage as well as tiny violet flowers and is hardy to zone 3.    

The Asian violets often have larger, more oblong leaves and the leaves are often quite striking in color.  ‘Silver Samurai’ has ruffled green foliage streaked with silver and light lavender flowers.  ‘Fugi Dawn’ has arrow shaped leaves touched with pink and cream, and deep blue flowers. 

Violets and violas are sometimes crossed and the resulting hybrids make excellent perennial garden plants.  Molly Sanderson which is a deep purple flower that is almost black and Etain which has  a pretty pale yellow flower with purple edges are two commonly sold hybrids.

There are many violets out there that are “pass along” plants, color sports gardeners have found and passed among themselves.  Search for them at plant swaps and start your own collection.

 Other uses for violets

The flowers and leaves of violets and violas are edible and make excellent additions to spring salads.  The flowers can be crystallized in sugar and used as decorations on cakes.  Both violets and violas had many medicinal uses in the past.  They are high in vitamin C and a compound called rutin.  Rutin is being studied for its beneficial effects on veins and arteries, making them more flexible and strong.   Violet water has long been used as a skin tonic.  

Violet and viola flowers lend their color and scent to many liquids, the flowers can be soaked in vinegar, or a light cooking oil and the resulting fluid used in cooking.  Wine is also made from violet and viola flowers.  Think what excitement a Michigan violet wine could cause!

DDT exposure increases the risk of Alzheimer's disease

New evidence comes from a study done at Rutgers University that exposure to the long banned pesticide DDT in your early years may contribute to a higher incidence of Alzheimer’s disease in people over 60.  People with a gene variant  ApoE gene (ApoE4), had an even higher risk of developing Alzheimer’s after DDT exposure.

When DDT breaks down in the body it leaves behind a chemical compound called DDE.  Even though DDT has been banned from use in the US for more than 30 years 75-80 % of blood samples collected by the CDC contain DDE.  DDT and DDE were found to increase amyloid proteins in the brain which cause the brain symptoms  associated with Alzheimer’s.  Alzheimer’s patients have usually have higher levels of DDE in their blood, up to 4 x higher than people without Alzheimer’s.

You were probably exposed to DDT as a child if you are over 40 as it was a popular pesticide thought to be harmless to people until it was banned in the 70’s.  If you were exposed you have DDE in your body.  DDT persists in the environment and collects in the fatty tissues of animals and a small amount of the pesticide is probably still being ingested right here at home.  But your greatest risk of additional exposure is when you eat fruits and vegetables that were grown in countries which still use DDT as an agricultural pesticide or which use it to control mosquitoes.  To avoid adding more DDE to your body you may want to eat local, or at least grown in the USA produce. 

The recent research results were posted in JAMA Neurology by Rutgers Biomedical and Health Sciences.

Birch bark heals wounds

The white layer of bark peeled from Birch trees has long been used in healing wounds by both Native Americans and European healers.  Now modern research has found the active compounds in birch bark that promote healing.   Research done at the Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Freiburg, Germany, involved two chemicals, betulin and lupeol, extracted from birch bark.   When these compounds are applied to wounds they cause cells involved in healing to migrate to a wound site and repair it.

It’s encouraging that modern science is finding so many traditional healing plants actually do have beneficial qualities.

Ismene- Christine Haworth.

Hymenocallis or Ismene - a bulb for containers

The beautiful photo’s in this newsletter come from my sister- in- laws garden in Australia, where it is now summer.  But gardeners here in the States can also grow these beautiful, and wonderfully fragrant plants although they are not cold hardy here in Michigan.  You may find them listed under Hymenocallis or Ismene as the genus was split in two in 1990.  Not only has the official classification of the plants wavered back and forth but many botanists argue over which species belongs where.  But don’t concern yourself with the official classification too much, as the varieties sold in commercial catalogs are generally hybrids of several species.

Common names can be a bit confusing too.  They are known as Inca Lilies, Peruvian lilies or Peruvian Daffodils as many of the species come from South America.  They are also known as Summer daffodils and Spider Lilies but both of these names are likely to get them confused with true late blooming daffodils and the lycoris plant, also known as Spider lily.  I prefer to call them Ismene.

However you name them these are an interesting, beautiful and uniquely fragrant plant any gardener can enjoy.  They are related to the amaryllis and northern gardeners should probably treat them much the way they do amaryllis bulbs.  They can be hardy outside in zones 8 and higher. 

Ismene has rounded strap like leaves similar to amaryllis.  In summer clusters of white flowers arise on stems about the size and shape of a large trumpet daffodil.  The “cup” of the flower has long feathery petal extensions sticking out around it- which accounts for the spider nickname.   There is also a soft yellow variety called Sulphur Queen.   The flowers are intensely fragrant, smelling of a blend of vanilla and lemon.  Unfortunately the flowers only last a few weeks but by staggering the planting of bulbs you can get a longer bloom time.

Care of Ismene

Ismene is sold as bulbs, although they can be grown from seed.  Generally the bulbs are sold in the spring in the US, although they could be planted in pots at any time.  You could plant them directly in the garden after all danger of frost has passed but in zones below 8 it is recommended that you plant them in pots.  The pots could be sunk in the garden and then when cold weather arrives the pots could be brought inside to warmer conditions to preserve the bulbs.

Plant 3 or 4 Ismene bulbs in a large, 10-12 inch diameter pot.  Use a non-soil, fertilizer enriched potting medium for best results.  The pot must have good drainage.  It should also be deep enough to plant the bulbs twice as deep as they are tall.  Keep the pot well watered and in a sunny place and you should see blooms in 6-8 weeks.

Just like amaryllis Ismene will rest between bloom periods and slowly increase in the pot, forming larger clumps with more flowers each year.  They should be potted up in larger pots only when the bulbs and roots have crowded the pots.  You can carefully remove bulbs from the clumps every year or so to start new pots also.  Lightly fertilize pots each spring.

To store Ismene in a dormant condition keep the pots in a place above 60 degrees in low light and let them dry out when the leaves start turning yellow.  Like amaryllis the leaves need to die back naturally in good strong light as they are making food for next season’s blooms.  If the Ismene blooms in the summer outside it may also bloom in the winter inside, after a dormant period,  if you have a temperature between 65-75 degrees with bright light.   

You can use Ismene in pots of other tropical bulbs or plants that bloom at various times for an interesting patio container.  They are excellent for small greenhouses and make good winter cut flowers if potted up in late fall.

Keep the bird feeder stocked, and find a cozy spot to watch the birds.   

Kim Willis

 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Tree damage from the December 2013 ice storm: Assessing damage

Proper care is needed to ensure long-term health of damaged trees.

Posted on January 31, 2014 by Bert Cregg, Michigan State University Extension, Departments of Horticulture and Forestry

Extreme cold weather associated with a series of Arctic blasts has dominated our weather news since the first of the year. For most homeowners in mid-Michigan, however, the most significant and lasting impacts of this winter will be due to the Dec. 21-22, 2013, ice storm that coated trees with up to an inch of ice across a wide area between Lansing, Mich., and Flint, Mich. As we’ve noted in related articles, this storm damaged hundreds of thousands of trees. Most of the ice damage to trees was high crown breakage, though some trees split or lost major limbs as well.

So far, our continuing cold and snowy conditions have precluded many homeowners from dealing with trees damaged by the ice storm. Once our weather warms up, homeowners will begin to venture outside and assess the damage from the storm. Proper pruning and care of damaged trees is important for safety and for the long-term health of the trees. If damaged trees are not properly pruned, several problems may ensue. Trees may experience severe dieback, resulting in dead limbs that may fall later.

Some trees may also produce prolific sprouts or “suckers” along limbs that have been damaged. These newly-formed limbs are often weak and poorly attached to the tree and may be prone to failure during future storms. Broken limbs that are hung up in trees are a hazard since they may fall later. Lastly, proper pruning and tree care can help to reduce the likelihood that broken limbs will become infected with disease pathogens than can further damage or kill the tree.

Here are some common questions that are likely to arise as homeowners inspect their trees.

Can this tree be saved?

Deciding whether or not a tree is too severely damaged to be saved is often a difficult question. Key considerations include the extent of the damage, tree age, tree condition and proximity of targets if the tree should go downhill and subsequently fail. The National Arbor Day Foundation has a very useful illustrated guide for assessing trees after a storm.

Can I prune or repair this myself?

Everyone has a different comfort level for do-it-yourself projects based on their experience and equipment. My personal rule of thumb is if I can’t reach a limb from a ladder or with a pole pruner, I’m leaving it for a professional. Below are some additional factors to consider before tackling the job yourself.

• High hanging limbs or tops are especially dangerous. Old timers called these “widow-makers” for a reason. A limb may have been caught up in a tree for weeks or months, but it doesn’t mean it can’t come down when you least expect it.
• Do not attempt to remove limbs near utility lines.
• If the tree or limb falls, what is it likely to hit? In a humorous insurance commercial, a homeowner drops a large tree limb on his neighbor’s car. I’m pretty sure this situation is a lot less funny in real life.
• Use proper personal protective equipment (PPE). A professional arborist would never do any overhead tree work without a hardhat and eye protection; why would you?
• There is no shame in erring on the side of caution. Lots of homeowners have ended up regretting taking on a tree job that went bad; few people regret calling a professional.

  

Hanging limbs are extremely dangerous and should to be removed by a professional arborist.

 Leave it to the pros. Never attempt to prune or remove limbs around utility lines.
Photo credits: Bert Cregg, MSU

How do I find a quality tree service company?

The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) is the professional association for arborists and hosts a searchable Find a Tree Care Service feature on its website. In order to be ISA certified, arborists must pass exams and receive continued training to maintain their certification,

In addition to ISA certification, make sure that any tree service company you use is insured. I have spoken with homeowners in the Lansing, Mich., area that have been approached by individuals offering to do tree work from as far away as Louisiana. In some cases, these doorknockers are honest folks trying to make a buck, but in other cases they may be unscrupulous individuals exploiting a homeowner’s misfortune. In either event, it’s a liability nightmare waiting to happen if the person damages your property or your neighbor’s and then disappears.

It’s no secret that quality tree care work is not cheap. Remember, like all things in life, you get what you pay for. Reputable arborists have to pay to train and retain quality employees, maintain their equipment and pay for insurance.

What questions should I ask my arborist?

Most arborists have standard contracts that cover most common situations, but asking questions and getting things in writing can help eliminate miscommunications. Before signing a contract, be sure to find out if the quoted price includes debris removal or stump grinding, if desired, and when work will be completed. Ask for proof of liability insurance and ISA certification if the tree service doesn’t volunteer it.

Article edited for this newsletter.

Dr. Cregg’s work is funded in part by MSU‘s AgBioResearch.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings

Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me at kimwillis151@gmail.com

New- "Practical Knowledge for the Avid Gardener"  St. Clair County Master Gardeners Annual Spring Symposium Saturday, March 22, 2014, Cornerstone Church, 4025 North Road, Clyde, MI 48049.

Speakers include Dan Heims, Pearl Fryar, David Culp & Fergus Garrett. Early Bird Registration is $80.00 and includes all speakers, breakfast, lunch snacks and shopping. After February 21 the cost will be $90. Contact sanderan51@yahoo.com. for a brochure.

2014 Know and Grow Seminar- Saturday, February 22nd, 2014 - 8:15AM, Bullock Creek High School Auditorium, 1420 Badour Rd. Midland, MI 48640.

 Early registration fee: $60.00,  After February 7th, 2014  $75.00

This seminar is hosted by the Midland Master Gardener Association. It includes speakers Rick Darke “Balancing Natives and Exotics in the Garden”, Dan Heims “Garden Gems”, and Janet Macunovich “Pluses and Minuses of Gardening in Zone 5”  .  There is a garden marketplace and lunch is included in the cost.

Get a registration flyer and more info at http://media.wix.com/ugd/a6644a_813a73b611d74331a99e3e7512baa553.pdf

To REGISTER BY PHONE call Dow Gardens at 631-2677 or  1-800-362-4874. Please have your credit card information ready.

Getting Started with Selling at Farmers Markets Webinar- February 19, 7:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.  Cost $10.00

This two-hour Adobe Connect webinar is part of the ongoing “2014 Beginning Farmer Webinar Series.” MSU Extension educator Julia Darnton will present information for those interested in selling their product successfully at a farmers market. Topics covered will include: choosing farmers markets at which to sell, negotiating the rules and regulations of a market, market governance, creating a connection with customers, setting up a stall as well as resources for practical tips on tents, tables, displays, and cash handling. 

Questions and discussion will take place through the webinar ‘chat’ function. Supporting written materials will be available for download during and after the webinar.  A recording of the webinar will be made available to registered participants.

Visit the Getting Started with Selling at Farmers Markets registration page http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=GettingStartedFarmersMarket

 for more information. Or you can contact Julia Darnton: darntonj@anr.msu.edu or 989-758-2507

Establishing A Rain Garden – Matthaei Botanical Gardens, 1800 N. Dixboro Rd. Ann Arbor, MI 48105  Feb.12, 2014, 6:45 pm to 8:30 pm

Susan Bryan, Rain Garden Coordinator for the Washtenaw County Water Resources Commissioner's Office, discusses the benefits of rain gardens for the home garden and how they help our rivers and streams. Program also includes how to build and plant one at home using readily available tools. Presented by Wild Ones Ann Arbor. Free. Call 734-647-7600 for more information.

Third Annual Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Academy - Feb. 18-19, 2014, at the Okemos Conference Center in Okemos, Mich., located just outside of East Lansing, Michigan

The 2014 IPM Academy is a two-day workshop packed full of information to help you improve your IPM practices and take advantage of all the great resources MSU has to offer. The presenters at this program include a number of MSU’s best and brightest research and Extension faculty, offering a rare opportunity to hear from experts working in a variety of disciplines and cropping systems at a single event.

The first day of the program will cover fundamental topics, including IPM strategies for disease and insect control; promoting and protecting pollinators; alternative weed control strategies; pesticide basics; the impacts of weather on pesticides; invasive pests; and IPM resources from MSU. On the second day of the workshop, participants opt into two, half-day sessions focused on the topic of their choice.

The cost of this event is $225. Please note that snacks, lunch and parking are included. Participants also receive a notebook with program material and a complimentary IPM-related MSU bulletin. Michigan pesticide recertification credits and Master Gardener credits will be available.

Newsletter information

If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.

Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com