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Tuesday, April 21, 2020

April 21, 2020 flying bamboo and peepers


Hi Gardeners


It’s a strange day here- rather typical sun and then showers type April weather but a bit colder, and some of the showers have been the snow type. It was quite nice yesterday, except for the wind. I have been trying to cut back the bamboo and it’s almost impossible in the wind. As I cut down a bleached stem it flies away on the wind. I am close to the road and 6 feet long bamboo stalks flying down the road isn’t good. I have tried stuffing each stem into a garbage can as I cut it, but they lift out of that and take off too. Those stems are so light, and the dead leaves seem to give them wings.

In the garden the cold has slowed things down a bit. But the forsythia is beginning to bloom, daffodils, hyacinths, corydalis and wind anemones are in bloom. The willow and maple trees are blooming, and I can tell the pollen season is ramping up. There are even dandelions in bloom in sheltered places. I have seen a few bees on warm days so things in bloom are good.

Yesterday I filled my hummingbird feeders and put them out. I dropped one and broke it. But I have several. I haven’t seen any hummers yet or even orioles, but they are being seen about 50 miles south of me. If they get here, I want them to have something to eat. Our temps are supposed to fall into the 20’s overnight but I think the feeders will be ok. Sugar water has a slightly lower freezing point than regular water and I put out the sturdy feeders.

I use a baby chick type waterer, the type that screws on a canning jar as one feeder. It sits on platform I suspend from a pole. This feeder can be used by a variety of birds, including orioles. These are also easy to clean.

Remember that you don’t need red dye in a feeder to attract hummers. And never use anything other than plain table sugar and water. Don’t use artificial sweeteners, gator aide, fruit juice and so on. These things can make birds sick or kill them.

I am considering changes to this blog. I know it gets too long many times, so I intend to shorten it, with fewer and shorter articles. I think longer articles will be kept on the pages listed on the right side of the blog. I add to these pages from time to time. I’ll list some highlights each week on the blog that are in those pages and you can read what interests you.

I write the blog to keep my mind sharp and because I like to share information. When I get the urge to research something, I like to share what I found. And as many of you know, I have some very strong opinions I like to express.  I have been writing this blog for over 8 years. I would like to get feedback on the blog. What type of things do you like to read about? Do you prefer how to type articles or just general talking about gardening? Are in depth articles about particular plant species interesting to you? Do you like recipes being included?

If you would like to share your thoughts with me you can include them in the blog comments box or send them to kimwillis151@gmail.com
 
Wind anemones

A place to get plants during stay at home restrictions

One of my garden writer friends just sent me some information about a different kind of online plant delivery system. The company Shrubbucket, has a limited delivery area, but it includes SE Michigan, Ohio, parts of Indiana, New York, Pennsylvania and a few other northeast states. They sell and deliver large potted shrubs, trees, perennials and a few vegetables and herbs. These are 1-5 gallon, (or larger) pots like you would pick up at a local nursery. They aren’t wrapped or boxed.  One of the company trucks simply delivers them to your house. The plants come from a variety of wholesale growers.

I checked out the site briefly. There are lots of nice things offered. It’s a little more expensive than most mailorder companies, but the larger pot sizes are the reason. They offer free delivery for orders over $45. If you have used the company, why not leave a comment or shoot me a line to say what you thought of it. I have no connection to this company, and I am not being paid to mention them.

Here’s the link.


Nutrient deficiencies in plants caused by cold soil

If you rush to get plants into the ground in the spring you may notice that some of them begin to turn reddish or purplish, or that leaves turn yellow with green veins. White or yellow spots or leaf edges may occur. Plants may not grow and appear stunted. These are signs of nutrient deficiencies, particularly of phosphorus, iron, zinc and to some extent nitrogen.

The soils probably have these nutrients, but cold, wet conditions make it impossible for plants to take up the nutrients. Sometimes the nutrients are not able to be absorbed by root cells that don’t function in cold conditions and sometimes cold wet conditions cause nutrients to bind to other soil elements and become unavailable. 

Usually these nutrient deficiencies are temporary, and the plants will start looking better and growing when the soil warms up. Don’t try to add fertilizers to correct the problem, they still won’t be available to the plants and when it gets warmer too much of some nutrients will cause worse problems.

Some plants are more susceptible to nutrient deficiencies from cold soil than others. In our gardens, tomatoes are one of the plants that often show symptoms of nutrient deficiencies from cold soil. This is one of the reasons why everyone should consider soil temperatures before putting plants in the ground. Keep reading for more information on soil temperatures.

Soil temperatures and planting times

I know I talked about planting times last week, this week I am going to focus more on soil temperatures and how knowing the soil temperature will help guide you on when to plant things. For some people a device like a soil thermometer takes the guesswork out of knowing when to plant and gives them more confidence.

You can take the soil temperature by using a soil thermometer, which are very inexpensive in garden shops. Push the thermometer into the soil to about 8 inches deep. If you have an old fashioned “stick” type air thermometer you can use it too, if you carefully insert it into the soil. Most candy and meat thermometers won’t have low enough measurements to be useful.
This Accu-rite  soil thermometer is sold at Tractor Supply for $7.99
It's just an example, other thermometers are sold at other places.


In this article I will also give a few phenological indicators that generally are consistent with soil temperatures. This means I will note what other common plants in your environment may be blooming when the soil temperature is at a certain point. Remember that there can be microclimates in every garden. If your neighbor a few houses down has a lilac in bloom it may still be too cold in your garden bed for certain plants.

When we decide to plant crops, we consider the soil temperature, air temperature and the plants preferred growing conditions. Sandy soils and darker colored loam soils warm up faster than heavy clay soils. Soil in raised beds also warms up faster. Wet, poorly drained soil stays cool a long time.

Heavy layers of mulch will delay soil warming. Pull them back in early spring so your soil can be warmed by the sun. You can replace them after the soil is warm enough for what you want to plant has been planted.

Vegetables fall into 3 categories for the proper planting time. The cool weather crops, mild weather crops and warm weather crops. The very first crops to plant are peas and leaf lettuce. These vegetables will grow in soil below 45 degrees and air temperatures just above freezing. Frost doesn’t faze them. They can be planted as soon as your soil is dry enough to work. Crocus, daffodils, and maples will be in bloom.

Dormant perennials hardy to your area, and dormant trees and shrubs can be planted now. Grass seed can be sown.

Next crops to plant are kale, chard, spinach, pac choi, radishes, onions, leeks, potatoes, and turnips. Soil temperatures of 50 degrees are high enough and daytime air temperatures in the 50’s and 60’s. Light frosts can still be expected. Depending on your location and the weather this can be late April- early May. Dandelions will generally be blooming and the trees starting to leaf out.

At this time blooming pansies can be planted in the flower bed too. You can still plant dormant perennials, trees and shrubs.  Potted growing perennials with minimal leafing out can be planted.

Next crops to plant, with soil temperatures of 55-60 degrees are carrots, beets, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts as transplants or plant their seeds. Air temperatures should be 60’s and low 70’s. This is usually early to mid-May. Popcorn can be planted, and you can take a chance with an early planting of beans. If there are no frosts after the beans emerge, your beans will do well. Frost will mean you have to re-plant. Some people also like to gamble with a cold tolerant sweet corn around this time to attempt an early corn crop.

At this soil temperature some flowers that can be planted are calendula and snapdragons. You can direct seed most annual flowers, like zinnias and marigolds at this time. It will take 10-14 days for them to emerge from the soil and frost chances will be minimal. Most potted perennials and trees and shrubs actively growing can now be planted.

Once the soil temperature reaches 70 degrees it’s time to plant the rest of the garden. This includes sweet corn, the main crop of beans, cucumbers, melons, squash, okra, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are set out as transplants. The other crops can be seeds or plants.

Bedding annuals and hanging baskets can now be planted or moved outside. If the danger of frost has passed houseplants and tender tropicals can now go outside.

Don’t forget the houseplants

In the rush to get growing outside we may neglect the houseplants.  They may be putting out lots of new growth and sun and warm temperatures may make the pots dry out faster.  Check to see if they need water more frequently and if you haven’t fertilized yet, you may want to start. 

Some plants that have been doing great on the windowsill may now be getting too much strong sun and the leaves will scorch.  Move them back from the windows just a few inches. You may want to rotate plants, so all the new growth doesn’t appear on the window side of the plant. 

House plants also tend to have more pest problems in spring. Watch for scale, aphids and white fly.  If you need to treat plants with pesticides you may want to move them on to the porch or deck on a warm day that isn’t windy, spray with pesticides and let them dry before moving them back inside. 

The most painful place to get stung by a bee

You have to wonder just where our tax dollars are spent on research.  A Cornell researcher spent 38 days and who knows how much money letting himself be stung by bees five times a day on various parts of his body. He rated the pain of each body part sting and determined that being stung on the nostrils was the most painful, followed by the upper lip and the penis. Why this information is useful I don’t know and a researcher who lets himself be stung on the penis and other sensitive body parts has got to be a bit nuts.

Spring Peepers

For most of the year you won’t see these tiny frogs very often or hear them but in spring these 1½ inch frogs will cause a mighty song to emanate from every tiny puddle and pool in the landscape.  They are one of the first frogs to sing in the spring, often before the ice is off of larger ponds and lakes. Their song is a high-pitched trill that goes on day and night, although it’s strongest in early evening. The sound can be heard more than a mile away.

The spring peeper is gray brown with a black X on its back and some black markings on its legs. The belly is a lighter cream color. The skin is smooth. The feet have both small webs like other frogs and suction pads on the toes to help them climb. Females may be a little larger than males and often lighter in color.

Spring peepers are tree frogs and can climb into low trees and shrubs, but they spend a lot of time in leaf litter on the ground and low vegetation looking for bugs. In the spring breeding season when they congregate around any low spot that holds water. The singing or croaking if you must- is caused by male frogs inflating a balloon like area of skin under their chins and releasing the air. They sing to attract females.
 
Spring peeper
In the winter spring peepers hibernate buried in soil. They emerge with the first warm weather in the spring, earlier than most other frogs. During spring breeding season in the north spring peepers frequently encounter freezing nights and they have the ability to survive even if their blood freezes for a short time. They lay strings of 700-1000 eggs at the edges of ponds and pools, usually hidden near vegetation. The eggs hatch into tadpoles in 4-10 days depending on weather. The race is then on to develop into ting frogs before the pond or pool dries up. This can happen in as little as 45 days or as long as 60 days.  Many tadpoles are eaten by fish and even water bugs before they become frogs.

The main enemies of spring peepers once they become frogs are snakes and other frogs and toads. They are great helpers in the garden, eating many harmful insects and should be encouraged to stick around. Pesticides sprayed on lawns and gardens can be harmful to these tiny guys and it’s another reason to avoid using them.

Articles you may want to read

Growing forsythia




Growing Peas



I think that no matter how old or infirm I may become, I will always plant a large garden in the spring. Who can resist the feelings of hope and joy that one gets from participating in nature’s rebirth?”
– Edward Giobbi

Kim Willis
All parts of this blog are copyrighted and may not be used without permission.

And So On….

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If you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly blog if you email me. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine, but I do reserve the right to publish what I want. Contact me at KimWillis151@gmail.com


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