 |
| Common morning glory |
Hello
gardeners
It’s
the fickle time of the year, one day its brisk and fall like, the next warm and
humid summer weather. Today it’s summer
weather, we are waiting for storms. This
weekend however we had chilly but beautiful fall weather, right on schedule for
the start of fall.
We have
had no frost yet and I’m hoping it holds off a bit, so I can prepare to bring
the houseplants in. I need to clean windows and arrange shelves and decide just
where everything that’s gotten so much bigger will go. I am telling myself to
just leave some of the tender perennials and summer bulbs out there but when it
comes to freezing weather I will probably be squeezing some of what I first
left outside to the inside.
The
dahlias are putting on a marvelous show right now and the anemone is going
great in the front where it mixes perfectly with some peachy colored
dahlias. I have blooms forming on the
Japanese aralia that I use in the front for its gold foliage. It’s never bloomed before so that will be
something different. I am pleased to see
that the first-year perennials I put into the new front bed have made nice
healthy large plants.
My poor
potted hibiscus keep getting blown over in the wind. They may be the first thing I move back
inside, although they are doing so well out there and full of flowers. The
Norfolk pines are top heavy too and keep blowing over. It’s so much work to move them back inside,
but I firmly believe that plants are happiest with a summer vacation
outside.
It’s
amazing how tenacious and determined some plants are. We have an old house and our large front
window is an odd size. We couldn’t find a new storm window to fit it without
ordering an expensive specially made one.
We made a frame and added a plexiglass sheet for a storm window but it’s
not easy to remove. This year a piece of
trumpet vine- that stuff is aggressive- found a way to squeeze between the
storm and the inside window.
I
didn’t notice at first that the vine was between the windows, I thought it was
on the outside and I would just go outside and pull it down one day. I have to wade through a flower bed to get to
the window, so I thought I’d wait until fall. Now I see it’s inside and it’s
loving its personal greenhouse.
It is
interesting to see the little fleshy pads it’s using to stick itself to the
window. But it’s also fogging up the
windows when it’s sunny as it transpires.
It’s got to go but I keep wondering how long into winter it would stay
green sandwiched between the windows with it’s roots outside in the cold. It could be an interesting experiment.
 |
| Trumpet vine in the window |
Another
experiment I’m conducting is to see what type of plant is growing in a pot my
mom gave me. She wanted me to take a pot
home that had came from my father’s funeral this spring and had been sitting
outside. There was an asparagus fern in it but also 3 woody stems with fine but
sparse leaves on them. I didn’t recognize the plants.
Mom said
there was some lily bulbs down in the basket, so I emptied it to get them to
plant. When I did that I noticed the
woody twigs were just that- they were something stuck in the pot that
rooted. I’m thinking maybe corkscrew
willow, because the stems are twisted a bit.
The leaves do look willow like. I’m going to let them grow a bit and see
what I have. Another example of a plants
quest to survive.
Outdoor plants that can make good houseplants
Fall is
here and for many gardeners that means gardening moves inside. If you bought plants for tubs and baskets in
the summer, you may be surprised to learn that some of them can make good
houseplants. While many tender perennial
plants can be overwintered inside in a dormant or semi-dormant state there are
other plants, both hardy perennials and tender ones, that will actually make good
foliage and flowering houseplants.
For
those of you who don’t think you have enough houseplants some of the plants
growing in the garden in summer can make inexpensive houseplants. If you didn’t grow them maybe a friend or
neighbor did, and if they aren’t interested in bringing them inside maybe
they’ll give them to you. You could also
scour garden stores before they close for the winter to see if you can pick
these plants up at bargain prices.
I have
chosen some varieties to talk about that are fairly easy to grow and reliable
as houseplants. However, if you have
some tender perennials in the garden you can’t bear to see disappear in the
snow that aren’t mentioned here you could try to turn them into houseplants
too. Some
hardy plants however, require a winter rest period in very cool conditions and
won’t make good houseplants in the average home.
Fuchsias are tender perennial plants and can be grown
inside through the winter or all year round. The small flowered ones make the
best houseplants. They will bloom throughout the winter if conditions are
right. They need very bright light,
consistent moisture and cooler night than day temperatures to do their best.
Geraniums (Pelargoniums) of all
types do very well inside in winter and will bloom all winter with a few rest
periods. They need very bright light, allowed to get a bit dry between watering
and cooler night than day temps. They survive cooler homes kept below 70
degrees very well and bloom between 40-to about 80 degrees. You may have to prune them back a bit if they
like their growing spot because many will get quite large.
There
are geraniums with scented leaves and variegated foliage, upright types and
vining types, all colors of flowers and double flowers that look like tiny
roses. There's a geranium for everyone.
When I was young I often visited a feed store that had huge, 6 feet
tall, or more scarlet red geraniums that filled a large sunny picture window.
They had been there for many, many years and had thick, almost trunk like
stems. They made a big impression on me. You too, can grow a geranium tree,
LOL.
If you
don’t want to keep them blooming inside, or don’t have room for all of them on
a window sill, you can still store geraniums in a cool spot in a semi-dormant
condition. I store mine in pots on an
unheated porch that never gets below freezing.
They stop blooming in late November and I let them dry out quite a
bit. Then in February I water more often
and in a month they are beginning to bloom in the windows on the porch and can
go outside again after the last frost.
Sedums-there are quite a few sedums that will also do well
inside. Many sedums aren’t winter hardy
in zone 6 and lower so if you bought them for summer displays why not rescue
them for houseplants? You can even try a
few of the hardier sedums inside. The
groundcover and dwarf sized sedums make the best subjects for
experimentation.
I had a
small golden sedum inside all winter last year.
It lost its bright gold tint but still did well inside. This year I’ll be bringing in a white
variegated variety as well. Sedums
inside like very bright light, cooler temperatures and to dry between watering.
 |
| Golden sedum |
Sempervivum
tectorum- are often called hens and chicks but another
common name is house leeks and they do well inside. There are a number of varieties on the market
now, some are quite beautifully colored. Like sedums they like bright light, cooler
temperatures and to dry between watering.
Once in a while they will flower inside also.
Abutilon- are usually sold as upright bedding plants now
but there are trailing basket types too.
They will tolerate lower light conditions like a north window and like
cooler temperatures. They need to be
kept evenly moist. They have dangling flowers in various colors and shapes.
Fertilize monthly for best bloom.
Wax begonias, B.
semperflorens, and Angel wing begonias B. coccinea are
common bedding and container plants that will transfer nicely to indoor
growing. In bright light they will bloom
all winter inside. Temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees are fine. Keep them a bit on the dry side to minimize
stem rot inside. Fertilize once a month for best bloom.
Boxwood - Buxus
sempervirens- yes, this broad-leaved evergreen will do well
indoors. The dwarf varieties are best
for inside, variegated leaved cultivars are very attractive foliage
plants. They can be kept pruned to a
manageable size. Grow in bright light
and night temperatures cooler than day are preferred.
Canna- this common garden plant will grow inside all
winter although they don’t flower well inside. The ones with pretty foliage are
the best houseplants for this reason and dwarf types are easier to keep inside.
I have a narrow leaved, maroon foliaged canna that looks nice all winter. This winter I will be bringing in a Tropicana
canna, (striped foliage) since it hasn’t gotten too large this summer. As houseplants canna require bright light,
consistent moisture and prefer cooler homes, below 70 degrees. They can go back
outside in summer to bloom. Cannas can
also be overwintered inside as dormant tubers in colder zones.
Carex, sedges- these plants are often used as
fillers in containers. They have arching
grass like leaves in a variety of colors.
Many also do well inside as foliage houseplants, although they are not
flashy. Moderate to bright light, cooler
temperatures and a little on the dry side are the best growing conditions for
them.
Ornamental peppers- there
are a number of ornamental peppers on the market with pretty foliage as well as
colorful fruit. Smaller, sturdy trunk
varieties are best as houseplants.
Unless you have grow lights (or a greenhouse) these peppers will quit
blooming for a while in winter. They need the highest light possible and long
daylight periods. Peppers prefer warmer homes, temperatures above 70 degrees,
although it can be cooler at night.
Moderate watering and occasional fertilization will keep them pretty.
Cupressus and Chamaecyparis species, are
often sold for containers and patio plants but are not hardy in zone 7 and
lower. They are often sold as false cypress or lemon cypress. They are needled
evergreens and dwarf, or compact varieties are the most often sold types. If they are in bright light but not direct
sunlight, and in cool conditions they can be grown inside, although they are
trickier to keep alive than some of the other plants I have mentioned. They
should be on the dry side in winter, but not allowed to dry out too much.
 |
| Lemon cypress, fuchsia overhead |
Eucalyptus
globulus is often sold for containers. It has blue-gray, round fragrant leaves.
There are trailing and upright types.
They grow well inside if they have bright light, warm temperatures and
are kept on the dry side in winter. They can be pinched back to keep them
compact and full looking.
Glechoma
hederacea – a hardy plant also known as ground ivy, will
surprisingly enough, make a decent hanging basket indoors in the right conditions.
You might find it growing wild in your yard.
In spring it has pretty purple flowers. There are variegated foliage
cultivars but those are hard to find. Ground ivy grown indoors needs cooler
temperatures, below 70 degrees, especially at night. It should be in bright light but not direct
sunlight indoors, water when dry or before it wilts. To keep it full and
nice-looking start with several small plants in a basket and keep them pinched
back to promote bushiness.
English Ivy- Hedera
helix- is another hardy plant that will grow indoors. There are dozens of varieties, many sold as
houseplants, but if it’s growing in your yard you can dig up plants or start
cuttings for houseplants. Inside it
likes moderate light and tolerates most temperature ranges. Let dry slightly between watering. Pinch to promote fullness in baskets or
provide something for it to climb up.
 |
| Polka dot plant |
Hypoestes
sanguinolenta- polka
dot plants are often sold for summer bedding or container
plants. Polka dot plants have pink, red or green foliage speckled with
white. They make good houseplants
although their lifespan is only a few years. If you are bringing in plants in
the fall cut them back if they are straggly or tired looking to about 3 inches. Put several plants in a pot for the best show. Inside polka dot plants like bright indirect
light and to be kept evenly moist. Keep
the insignificant flowers trimmed off.
Impatiens- both I.wallerans
and New Guinea hybrid types- yes these can also be grown inside. Don’t wait too long in the fall to dig them
and bring them inside though, they like warm conditions and if they get too
cold may not grow well after that.
Preferably bring younger plants inside- they are easy to grow from
cuttings in late summer or you may find seedlings coming up around larger
plants. If you want to bring older
plants inside check them carefully for downy mildew. Then cut them back if they are large and
floppy to about 6 inches.
While
shade plants outside, impatiens need bright light inside to bloom. There are
some New Guinea hybrids with colorful foliage but for most impatiens it’s the
flowers that make the plant pretty. They may slow blooming in early to
mid-winter. You’ll need to fertilize
once a month inside, every other week in late spring and summer if kept
inside. Let them dry a bit between
watering and don’t crowd plants.
Ophiopogon
japonicus or
lily turf is another perennial landscape plant that can be grown inside. It has
spiky, grass-like leaves. Some have gold striped or purplish foliage. Lily turf has small flowers of white or
lavender in summer. Inside it’s an
undemanding houseplant, preferring cooler homes and bright indirect light. Keep it evenly moist.
Pentas
lanceolate- Pentas are sold in garden stores as annuals, they
have clusters of bell shaped flowers in
various colors. However, the pentas will
also grow well indoors and will bloom in late winter through summer. The plants need regular pruning to keep them
to a compact and full looking 12-18 inches.
They like warmer conditions and a sunny window and need evenly moist
planting medium with good drainage.
Setcreasea
purpurea- this is a common filler plant in containers,
sometimes called purple queen or purple heart plant. Outside its hardy to zone
8. It’s a trailing plant with purple and pink variegated leaves that can make a
nice indoor basket. It’s sometimes mistaken for the related
Tradescantia species, which include the species known as wandering jew and
this politically incorrect name is sometimes applied to it too. Purple heart also has tiny pinkish lavender
flowers from time to time. The stems are a bit brittle but if they break they
can be quickly rooted for new plants.
Purple heart likes bright indirect light. Let it dry slightly between watering to avoid
stem rot. This is one of those plants
that is hard to kill.
Viburnum
tinus- Laurustinus is a small viburnum that is a late winter bloomer
in mild climates, hardy in zones 7 and higher. The fragrant flowers are
produced in rounded clusters and have pink buds opening to white flowers. Small blue berries form after the flowers
which are mildly poisonous, so inside you may wish to remove them. It has
small, dark green leaves and a bush form that make it a nice houseplant even
when out of bloom. This viburnum has
several cultivars and if one wants it for a houseplant seek out one of the
compact selections like ‘Spring Bouquet’ . There are variegated leave cultivars
too. Even then you’ll want to keep it pruned (after flowering) and shaped to a
manageable size.
V. tinus needs bright light, moderate humidity and cooler
conditions, 45-70 degrees, indoors. Let
it dry slightly between watering. Fertilize once a month from January until it
blooms. They appreciate a summer outside.
There
are other tender perennial plants you can experiment with growing indoors. Look for ones that don’t need a winter chill
period, that would probably be plants only hardy to zone 8 or higher. But
occasionally as you see from the list above, even some hardy perennials may
grow inside, in this case they should be described as evergreen. You may even want to look at common weeds,
like the ground ivy. I have a woody
nightshade plant that came up in a pot on its own inside last winter and it has
made a pretty trailing plant. Its
outside now and I’ll be bringing it back inside as an experiment this winter.
Grasshoppers Schistocerca species.
When
you walk in the fields or even your garden in late summer and fall you are
likely to notice grasshoppers flying or hopping around. They’ve been there all
summer, but in early summer they are smaller and less conspicuous. By fall they are large and easy to spot. Almost every kid who’s been outside in the
fall has captured a grasshopper. And
when they grabbed it they may have experienced what I as a kid called tobacco
spit. The grasshopper vomited a brown
smelly substance that stains the hands and usually causes the child to quickly
release it. This is composed of acidic
stomach acids and digested plants.
As the
oldest plant eating insects on the planet, here for at least 250 million years,
grasshoppers have had a lot of time to develop strategies to evade predators
and to ensure survival of the species. They can hop or fly away. Some species
are poisonous, some can scratch you with the “hooks” on their powerful hind
legs. Some grasshoppers can change their
color to match the plants they are feeding on.
There
are about 8,000 species of grasshoppers and probably some that haven’t been
discovered yet. Grasshoppers are closely
related to crickets and katydids. One obvious difference is the huge powerful
hind legs of most grasshopper species.
These legs can propel a mature grasshopper 20 times its own length. And
grasshoppers can turn into locusts- more about that later.
Besides
powerful hind legs grasshoppers have 2 other pairs of smaller legs. The legs
have claws on the end of them for grabbing plants. They have three body
segments, with a hard, shell-like exoskeleton covering the upper body, the
abdomen area is soft. Female
grasshoppers have a short extension on the “butt” area called an ovipositor and
in most species, they are slightly larger than males.
Some
grasshoppers have protrusions on the hind legs and when the insects rub their
legs together these produce a sound to attract mates, like crickets
chirping. Other species rub their wings
together to make a noise and some are noiseless.
Grasshoppers
have 5 eyes, 2 large eyes with thousands of lenses, a small eye on the side of
each antenna and another between the antennae. They have 2 pair of wings, one
leathery, narrow upper set and a lower set of wide tough membranous wings with
prominent veins.
Female
grasshoppers lay their eggs in clusters called pods near the base of plants and
then they cover the eggs with soil and debris. The eggs overwinter and hatch
into tiny grasshoppers in early summer.
They look just like adult grasshoppers but smaller and with less
developed wings. They will molt their
skin 5 times until they reach mature size, which varies from a couple inches to
5 inches or more depending on species.
Grasshoppers generally live one warm season, 2-3 months, and die when a
hard frost hits.
What harm do grasshoppers do to gardens?
Grasshoppers
have powerful jaws to munch through plant tissues. Most species will feed on all types of
vegetation, but they do seem to prefer grass species. They can become a problem for farmers growing
wheat and corn. In some years grasshopper populations can build up and major
damage to gardens can occur. But most of
the time the damage to gardens is done in late summer and not really
significant. It consists of chewed areas on leaves and flowers.
Grasshoppers
can be a hard pest to control and many pesticides aren’t effective. It’s
probably not a wise investment of time and money to use chemical pesticides to
control grasshoppers. Some states are allowing bio-pesticides- viruses and
parasites, to be released to control grasshoppers. Hand picking them or
allowing chickens into the garden can help, but beware, chickens also love veggies
and flowers. Fine netting can exclude
them from prized plants. They rarely bother mowed lawns. Grasshoppers do more
damage to grass pasture land and can also transmit viruses to livestock when
feeding. See Link https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/08/090830091156.htm
What eats grasshoppers?
Grasshoppers
have many natural predators. Toads and
frogs, snakes, birds and mice, even cats and foxes feed on them. One North
American species of grasshopper, the Eastern Lubber, is poisonous enough to
kill small animals and birds. It’s a
large 3-inch fat grasshopper that’s brightly colored in reds and green. The
wings are reduced to bumps and it doesn’t fly, or even move quickly.
A human
who ate a Lubber won’t die, although he might get pretty sick, but people do
eat other grasshoppers regularly. In
some areas of Mexico grasshoppers are fried in a spicy sauce and rolled in
tortillas. They are regularly stir fried
and roasted in Asian countries. Native Americans set grasslands on fire to
drive out grasshoppers for collection and eating. Grasshoppers are often touted as a survival
food. They should be cooked before being
eaten because they can carry parasites.
(You’d have to be pretty desperate to eat a raw grasshopper).
When grasshoppers become locusts
Until
the early 1900’s it was thought that the ravaging hordes of locusts that are
the stuff of sad novels and biblical lore were a separate species from
grasshoppers. We now know that about 10
species of grasshoppers can change into locusts when conditions are right. Here’s how it works.
After
several mild winters and lush summer’s, a huge population of young grasshoppers
builds up one year. Then a drought
strikes, and the grasshoppers accumulate wherever there is good vegetation
left. As they feed closely together-
which in itself can be considered a plague- huge groups of tiny grasshoppers,
they rub legs. This somehow triggers a
release of the hormone serotonin.
Serotonin
causes the young grasshoppers wings to become stronger and larger and the body
smaller. They are darker, more active,
breed more often than other grasshoppers and actively seek other locusts. As well as changing the body
shape the hormone causes changes to the brain causing swarm behavior. When the
food supply is exhausted they rise in huge swarms sometimes miles across and
fly to other food sources. These swarms
devour all vegetation in their path.
A swarm
of locusts is very hard to stop. Like swarming bees, they almost become one
insect, flying in clouds that darken the sky and send shivers down peoples
spines from the deafening rustling of their wings. Cold weather, the oceans or
deserts or running out of food are often the only thing that can stop them,
although sometimes we hear of flocks of birds helping block their passage by
feasting on them.
Grasshoppers and hairworms
Another
fascinating or gross fact about grasshoppers depending on your viewpoint, is
the fact that they harbor a parasitic roundworm called the hairworm. These worms are sometimes seen floating in water
in wiggling clusters, in puddles, livestock tanks, and even toilets and sinks. They
have been found on cabbage plants but are not the common worm seen on cabbage.
The adult hairworms live and breed in water where they deposit their
eggs. The eggs are ingested by
grasshoppers and crickets, (and a few other insects) and hatch inside them.
Inside
the grasshopper or cricket the baby worms grow to a large size- 2-3 times the
length of their host when extended and they are big enough to be seen with the
naked eye. When they are mature and
ready to leave their poor host, they secrete some kind of hormonal signal to
the hosts brain, causing it to look for water. When it finds water the host
insect dives in and drowns itself and the worms emerge to mate and live in the
water. The worm effectively directs the
host to commit suicide, so it can be called a natural control for grasshoppers.
There
are various answers to the question of whether hairworms can affect humans and
larger animals. Most references say they
can’t parasitize humans. But I have
included a link to a scientific study that says they can as well as another
link on hairworms. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3428576/
So, go
out and look for the tobacco spitters and appreciate their oddities. It’s amazing what the garden can hold.
Growing Catnip
Want a
bee and butterfly friendly plant that’s also a helpful herb? Bees love catnip flowers and it can be used
to attract bees and butterflies to any garden. You may already have catnip
growing around your home as it is a common weed in many areas.
Catnip
is an easy herb to grow. If you have
trouble growing catnip you truly have a brown thumb. Catnip grows just about anywhere, in any type
of soil, in full sun and partial shade.
It grows in dry or wet areas. For
herbal use plant it in full sun and keep it on the dry side, to concentrate the
medicinal oils. Most people will buy
plants if they can’t find a place to pull up a seedling. Don’t fertilize
it. It doesn’t need it and the medicinal
qualities may suffer.
 |
| Young catnip plants |
The
common catnip, Nepeta cataria is
native to the Mediterranean area of Europe but has spread throughout Europe and
North America and many other places, where it grows freely as a weed. The genus Nepeta has many species, some of
which are called catmints and are grown as ornamental plants. The names are
often used interchangeably but catnip and catmint are all members of the mint
family. The weedy medicinal type plant
is generally referred to as catnip and ornamental varieties and other Nepeta
species are called catmints.
Like
most mints, catnip, has a square stem.
The catnip stem is covered with fine hairs and grows woody near the base
as it ages. The leaves of common catnip
are heart-shaped, gray green and have a scalloped edge. They are covered with soft hairs and appear
downy.
The
catnip flowers are small spikes of white flowers with tiny purple dots on the
throat, and not very showy. In good
conditions catnip can grow to 5 feet high and 3 feet wide. The plant is tough
and spreads rapidly by seed through the garden, popping up everywhere.
Catnip
is a perennial that dies down to the roots each winter and then returns quite
vigorously in the spring. It is hardy to
at least zone 4 and probably further.
Using Catnip Medicinally
Long
before true tea found its way to Europe people were brewing catnip tea. It was used medicinally and just as a
soothing warm drink. It was often given
to children to calm them and help them sleep.
Catnip tea is used to calm the digestive system and relieve gas pains
and soothed the colic pains that were keeping crabby children awake. It still makes a safe and soothing tea.
Catnip
induces perspiration and is used as a fever remedy and as a headache
remedy. Warm bruised leaves are also
used as a poultice on wounds and boils.
Catnip has also been used in strong concentrations to bring on
menstruation. Catnip oil is being tested as a mosquito repellent.
The
active chemical ingredient in catnip is nepetalactone. The flower buds have the highest
concentration of this chemical, but leaves are also used to make tea. Never bring catnip leaves and buds to a boil
as this destroys the medicinal action. Instead gently steep it as one does
green tea. Fresh leaves and buds can be
used for tea or you can use dried leaves. About a half cup of bruised leaves
and buds or a couple teaspoons of dried herb are used to a cup of water.
Catnip
tea is available in most stores now, but it is easy to dry your own
leaves. Cut the tender top of the stems
with young leaves and preferably some flower buds in the early morning after
the dew has dried. Hand upside down in
small bunches to dry in a warm dark place or use a dehydrator. You can also enclose the cut stems in a brown
paper bag and place it in your car in the sun for a few days. Beware that drying catnip isn’t the most
pleasant car deodorizer. When catnip is
crumbly dry store it in clean containers with tight lids.
Catnip
is fairly safe as far as dosage is concerned.
You would have to drink large quantities before it became toxic and you
would vomit long before that. If you are taking prescription medications check
with your doctor before taking herbal remedies.
Cats and Catnip
Not all
cats are affected by catnip. About 15%
of cats lack a gene that makes them respond to catnip. Cats must be sexually mature to be interested
also. The smell of catnip affects them like a hormone. Some eat it, some roll on it, some go crazy
and wild on it, and others are barely affected.
It does not hurt them, but it can hurt your house if the cat goes on a
drugged rampage.
Some
wild cat species are attracted to catnip and some are not. Bobcats and cougars appear to be interested
but tigers and possibly lions are not. A
catnip “trip” will last about 15 minutes and after that it will take a while
before the cat will react again. Cats
may pass right by catnip plants in the garden but will go nuts for it when a
plant is bruised or pulled.
Carrot and apple bread
It’s
harvest season and carrots and apples are both abundant. Why not make a treat that’s healthy and
delicious? This will make two average
sized loaves.
Ingredients
3 cups
flour
½
teaspoon salt
1
teaspoon baking soda
½
teaspoon cinnamon
1/8
teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup
sugar
½ cup
brown sugar
2 eggs
½ cup
melted butter or oil
3 cups
of finely chopped, peeled apple
1 cup
of finely grated, peeled carrot
1 cup
of chopped walnuts or pecans
Blend
the flour with the spices, baking soda and salt.
Blend
the butter, sugars, and eggs together until creamy.
Beat
the dry ingredients into the butter mixture until smooth.
Fold in
the apple, carrot and nuts, blending until well distributed in batter.
Pour
into 2 greased loaf pans.
Bake at
350 degrees F about 1 hr., a toothpick inserted should come out clean and the
sides will shrink a bit from the sides of the pan, and the top will be lightly
golden when done.
Cool
before cutting.
Kim Willis
All parts of this blog are copyrighted and may not be used without
permission.
And So On….
Find Michigan garden events/classes
here:
(This
is the Lapeer County Gardeners facebook page)
Newsletter/blog information
I write this because I
love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my
research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a
hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any
time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know
anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is
published have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
No comments:
Post a Comment