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Tuesday, September 25, 2018

September 18, 2018 Kim’s Weekly Garden Blog

Common morning glory

Hello gardeners
It’s the fickle time of the year, one day its brisk and fall like, the next warm and humid summer weather.  Today it’s summer weather, we are waiting for storms.  This weekend however we had chilly but beautiful fall weather, right on schedule for the start of fall.
We have had no frost yet and I’m hoping it holds off a bit, so I can prepare to bring the houseplants in. I need to clean windows and arrange shelves and decide just where everything that’s gotten so much bigger will go. I am telling myself to just leave some of the tender perennials and summer bulbs out there but when it comes to freezing weather I will probably be squeezing some of what I first left outside to the inside.
The dahlias are putting on a marvelous show right now and the anemone is going great in the front where it mixes perfectly with some peachy colored dahlias.  I have blooms forming on the Japanese aralia that I use in the front for its gold foliage.  It’s never bloomed before so that will be something different.  I am pleased to see that the first-year perennials I put into the new front bed have made nice healthy large plants.
My poor potted hibiscus keep getting blown over in the wind.  They may be the first thing I move back inside, although they are doing so well out there and full of flowers. The Norfolk pines are top heavy too and keep blowing over.  It’s so much work to move them back inside, but I firmly believe that plants are happiest with a summer vacation outside. 
It’s amazing how tenacious and determined some plants are.  We have an old house and our large front window is an odd size.  We couldn’t find a new storm window to fit it without ordering an expensive specially made one.  We made a frame and added a plexiglass sheet for a storm window but it’s not easy to remove.  This year a piece of trumpet vine- that stuff is aggressive- found a way to squeeze between the storm and the inside window.
I didn’t notice at first that the vine was between the windows, I thought it was on the outside and I would just go outside and pull it down one day.  I have to wade through a flower bed to get to the window, so I thought I’d wait until fall. Now I see it’s inside and it’s loving its personal greenhouse.
It is interesting to see the little fleshy pads it’s using to stick itself to the window.  But it’s also fogging up the windows when it’s sunny as it transpires.  It’s got to go but I keep wondering how long into winter it would stay green sandwiched between the windows with it’s roots outside in the cold.  It could be an interesting experiment.
Trumpet vine in the window
Another experiment I’m conducting is to see what type of plant is growing in a pot my mom gave me.  She wanted me to take a pot home that had came from my father’s funeral this spring and had been sitting outside. There was an asparagus fern in it but also 3 woody stems with fine but sparse leaves on them. I didn’t recognize the plants.
Mom said there was some lily bulbs down in the basket, so I emptied it to get them to plant.  When I did that I noticed the woody twigs were just that- they were something stuck in the pot that rooted.  I’m thinking maybe corkscrew willow, because the stems are twisted a bit.  The leaves do look willow like. I’m going to let them grow a bit and see what I have.  Another example of a plants quest to survive.
Outdoor plants that can make good houseplants
Fall is here and for many gardeners that means gardening moves inside.  If you bought plants for tubs and baskets in the summer, you may be surprised to learn that some of them can make good houseplants.  While many tender perennial plants can be overwintered inside in a dormant or semi-dormant state there are other plants, both hardy perennials and tender ones, that will actually make good foliage and flowering houseplants.
For those of you who don’t think you have enough houseplants some of the plants growing in the garden in summer can make inexpensive houseplants.  If you didn’t grow them maybe a friend or neighbor did, and if they aren’t interested in bringing them inside maybe they’ll give them to you.  You could also scour garden stores before they close for the winter to see if you can pick these plants up at bargain prices.
I have chosen some varieties to talk about that are fairly easy to grow and reliable as houseplants.  However, if you have some tender perennials in the garden you can’t bear to see disappear in the snow that aren’t mentioned here you could try to turn them into houseplants too.  Some hardy plants however, require a winter rest period in very cool conditions and won’t make good houseplants in the average home.
Fuchsias are tender perennial plants and can be grown inside through the winter or all year round. The small flowered ones make the best houseplants. They will bloom throughout the winter if conditions are right.  They need very bright light, consistent moisture and cooler night than day temperatures to do their best.
Geraniums (Pelargoniums) of all types do very well inside in winter and will bloom all winter with a few rest periods. They need very bright light, allowed to get a bit dry between watering and cooler night than day temps. They survive cooler homes kept below 70 degrees very well and bloom between 40-to about 80 degrees.  You may have to prune them back a bit if they like their growing spot because many will get quite large.
There are geraniums with scented leaves and variegated foliage, upright types and vining types, all colors of flowers and double flowers that look like tiny roses. There's a geranium for everyone.
When I was young I often visited a feed store that had huge, 6 feet tall, or more scarlet red geraniums that filled a large sunny picture window. They had been there for many, many years and had thick, almost trunk like stems. They made a big impression on me. You too, can grow a geranium tree, LOL.
If you don’t want to keep them blooming inside, or don’t have room for all of them on a window sill, you can still store geraniums in a cool spot in a semi-dormant condition.  I store mine in pots on an unheated porch that never gets below freezing.  They stop blooming in late November and I let them dry out quite a bit.  Then in February I water more often and in a month they are beginning to bloom in the windows on the porch and can go outside again after the last frost.
Sedums-there are quite a few sedums that will also do well inside.  Many sedums aren’t winter hardy in zone 6 and lower so if you bought them for summer displays why not rescue them for houseplants?  You can even try a few of the hardier sedums inside.  The groundcover and dwarf sized sedums make the best subjects for experimentation. 
I had a small golden sedum inside all winter last year.  It lost its bright gold tint but still did well inside.  This year I’ll be bringing in a white variegated variety as well.  Sedums inside like very bright light, cooler temperatures and to dry between watering.
Golden sedum
Sempervivum tectorum- are often called hens and chicks but another common name is house leeks and they do well inside.  There are a number of varieties on the market now, some are quite beautifully colored.  Like sedums they like bright light, cooler temperatures and to dry between watering.  Once in a while they will flower inside also.
Abutilon- are usually sold as upright bedding plants now but there are trailing basket types too.  They will tolerate lower light conditions like a north window and like cooler temperatures.  They need to be kept evenly moist. They have dangling flowers in various colors and shapes. Fertilize monthly for best bloom.
Wax begonias, B. semperflorens, and Angel wing begonias  B. coccinea are common bedding and container plants that will transfer nicely to indoor growing.  In bright light they will bloom all winter inside. Temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees are fine.  Keep them a bit on the dry side to minimize stem rot inside. Fertilize once a month for best bloom.
Boxwood - Buxus sempervirens- yes, this broad-leaved evergreen will do well indoors.  The dwarf varieties are best for inside, variegated leaved cultivars are very attractive foliage plants.  They can be kept pruned to a manageable size.  Grow in bright light and night temperatures cooler than day are preferred.
Canna- this common garden plant will grow inside all winter although they don’t flower well inside. The ones with pretty foliage are the best houseplants for this reason and dwarf types are easier to keep inside. I have a narrow leaved, maroon foliaged canna that looks nice all winter.  This winter I will be bringing in a Tropicana canna, (striped foliage) since it hasn’t gotten too large this summer.  As houseplants canna require bright light, consistent moisture and prefer cooler homes, below 70 degrees. They can go back outside in summer to bloom.   Cannas can also be overwintered inside as dormant tubers in colder zones.
Carex, sedges- these plants are often used as fillers in containers.  They have arching grass like leaves in a variety of colors.  Many also do well inside as foliage houseplants, although they are not flashy.  Moderate to bright light, cooler temperatures and a little on the dry side are the best growing conditions for them.
Ornamental peppers- there are a number of ornamental peppers on the market with pretty foliage as well as colorful fruit.  Smaller, sturdy trunk varieties are best as houseplants.  Unless you have grow lights (or a greenhouse) these peppers will quit blooming for a while in winter. They need the highest light possible and long daylight periods. Peppers prefer warmer homes, temperatures above 70 degrees, although it can be cooler at night.  Moderate watering and occasional fertilization will keep them pretty.
Cupressus and Chamaecyparis species, are often sold for containers and patio plants but are not hardy in zone 7 and lower. They are often sold as false cypress or lemon cypress. They are needled evergreens and dwarf, or compact varieties are the most often sold types.   If they are in bright light but not direct sunlight, and in cool conditions they can be grown inside, although they are trickier to keep alive than some of the other plants I have mentioned. They should be on the dry side in winter, but not allowed to dry out too much.

Lemon cypress, fuchsia overhead
Eucalyptus globulus is often sold for containers.  It has blue-gray, round fragrant leaves. There are trailing and upright types.  They grow well inside if they have bright light, warm temperatures and are kept on the dry side in winter. They can be pinched back to keep them compact and full looking.
Glechoma hederacea – a hardy plant also known as ground ivy, will surprisingly enough, make a decent hanging basket indoors in the right conditions. You might find it growing wild in your yard.  In spring it has pretty purple flowers. There are variegated foliage cultivars but those are hard to find. Ground ivy grown indoors needs cooler temperatures, below 70 degrees, especially at night.  It should be in bright light but not direct sunlight indoors, water when dry or before it wilts. To keep it full and nice-looking start with several small plants in a basket and keep them pinched back to promote bushiness.
English Ivy- Hedera helix- is another hardy plant that will grow indoors.  There are dozens of varieties, many sold as houseplants, but if it’s growing in your yard you can dig up plants or start cuttings for houseplants.  Inside it likes moderate light and tolerates most temperature ranges.  Let dry slightly between watering.  Pinch to promote fullness in baskets or provide something for it to climb up.
Polka dot plant
Hypoestes sanguinolenta- polka dot plants are often sold for summer bedding or container plants. Polka dot plants have pink, red or green foliage speckled with white.  They make good houseplants although their lifespan is only a few years. If you are bringing in plants in the fall cut them back if they are straggly or tired looking to about 3 inches.  Put several plants in a pot for the best show.  Inside polka dot plants like bright indirect light and to be kept evenly moist.  Keep the insignificant flowers trimmed off.
Impatiens- both I.wallerans and New Guinea hybrid types- yes these can also be grown inside.  Don’t wait too long in the fall to dig them and bring them inside though, they like warm conditions and if they get too cold may not grow well after that.  Preferably bring younger plants inside- they are easy to grow from cuttings in late summer or you may find seedlings coming up around larger plants.  If you want to bring older plants inside check them carefully for downy mildew.  Then cut them back if they are large and floppy to about 6 inches.
While shade plants outside, impatiens need bright light inside to bloom. There are some New Guinea hybrids with colorful foliage but for most impatiens it’s the flowers that make the plant pretty. They may slow blooming in early to mid-winter.  You’ll need to fertilize once a month inside, every other week in late spring and summer if kept inside.  Let them dry a bit between watering and don’t crowd plants.
Ophiopogon japonicus or lily turf is another perennial landscape plant that can be grown inside. It has spiky, grass-like leaves. Some have gold striped or purplish foliage.  Lily turf has small flowers of white or lavender in summer.  Inside it’s an undemanding houseplant, preferring cooler homes and bright indirect light.  Keep it evenly moist.
Pentas lanceolate- Pentas are sold in garden stores as annuals, they have  clusters of bell shaped flowers in various colors.  However, the pentas will also grow well indoors and will bloom in late winter through summer.  The plants need regular pruning to keep them to a compact and full looking 12-18 inches.  They like warmer conditions and a sunny window and need evenly moist planting medium with good drainage.
Setcreasea purpurea- this is a common filler plant in containers, sometimes called purple queen or purple heart plant. Outside its hardy to zone 8. It’s a trailing plant with purple and pink variegated leaves that can make a nice indoor basket. It’s sometimes mistaken for the related Tradescantia species, which include the species known as wandering jew and this politically incorrect name is sometimes applied to it too.  Purple heart also has tiny pinkish lavender flowers from time to time. The stems are a bit brittle but if they break they can be quickly rooted for new plants.  Purple heart likes bright indirect light.  Let it dry slightly between watering to avoid stem rot.  This is one of those plants that is hard to kill.
Viburnum tinus- Laurustinus is a small viburnum that is a late winter bloomer in mild climates, hardy in zones 7 and higher. The fragrant flowers are produced in rounded clusters and have pink buds opening to white flowers.  Small blue berries form after the flowers which are mildly poisonous, so inside you may wish to remove them. It has small, dark green leaves and a bush form that make it a nice houseplant even when out of bloom.  This viburnum has several cultivars and if one wants it for a houseplant seek out one of the compact selections like ‘Spring Bouquet’ . There are variegated leave cultivars too. Even then you’ll want to keep it pruned (after flowering) and shaped to a manageable size.
V. tinus needs bright light, moderate humidity and cooler conditions, 45-70 degrees, indoors.  Let it dry slightly between watering. Fertilize once a month from January until it blooms. They appreciate a summer outside.
There are other tender perennial plants you can experiment with growing indoors.  Look for ones that don’t need a winter chill period, that would probably be plants only hardy to zone 8 or higher. But occasionally as you see from the list above, even some hardy perennials may grow inside, in this case they should be described as evergreen.  You may even want to look at common weeds, like the ground ivy.  I have a woody nightshade plant that came up in a pot on its own inside last winter and it has made a pretty trailing plant.  Its outside now and I’ll be bringing it back inside as an experiment this winter.

Grasshoppers Schistocerca species.

When you walk in the fields or even your garden in late summer and fall you are likely to notice grasshoppers flying or hopping around. They’ve been there all summer, but in early summer they are smaller and less conspicuous.  By fall they are large and easy to spot.  Almost every kid who’s been outside in the fall has captured a grasshopper.  And when they grabbed it they may have experienced what I as a kid called tobacco spit.  The grasshopper vomited a brown smelly substance that stains the hands and usually causes the child to quickly release it.  This is composed of acidic stomach acids and digested plants.
As the oldest plant eating insects on the planet, here for at least 250 million years, grasshoppers have had a lot of time to develop strategies to evade predators and to ensure survival of the species. They can hop or fly away. Some species are poisonous, some can scratch you with the “hooks” on their powerful hind legs.  Some grasshoppers can change their color to match the plants they are feeding on.
There are about 8,000 species of grasshoppers and probably some that haven’t been discovered yet.  Grasshoppers are closely related to crickets and katydids. One obvious difference is the huge powerful hind legs of most grasshopper species.  These legs can propel a mature grasshopper 20 times its own length. And grasshoppers can turn into locusts- more about that later.
Besides powerful hind legs grasshoppers have 2 other pairs of smaller legs. The legs have claws on the end of them for grabbing plants. They have three body segments, with a hard, shell-like exoskeleton covering the upper body, the abdomen area is soft.  Female grasshoppers have a short extension on the “butt” area called an ovipositor and in most species, they are slightly larger than males.
Some grasshoppers have protrusions on the hind legs and when the insects rub their legs together these produce a sound to attract mates, like crickets chirping.  Other species rub their wings together to make a noise and some are noiseless.
Grasshoppers have 5 eyes, 2 large eyes with thousands of lenses, a small eye on the side of each antenna and another between the antennae. They have 2 pair of wings, one leathery, narrow upper set and a lower set of wide tough membranous wings with prominent veins.
Female grasshoppers lay their eggs in clusters called pods near the base of plants and then they cover the eggs with soil and debris. The eggs overwinter and hatch into tiny grasshoppers in early summer.  They look just like adult grasshoppers but smaller and with less developed wings.  They will molt their skin 5 times until they reach mature size, which varies from a couple inches to 5 inches or more depending on species.  Grasshoppers generally live one warm season, 2-3 months, and die when a hard frost hits.
What harm do grasshoppers do to gardens?
Grasshoppers have powerful jaws to munch through plant tissues.  Most species will feed on all types of vegetation, but they do seem to prefer grass species.  They can become a problem for farmers growing wheat and corn. In some years grasshopper populations can build up and major damage to gardens can occur.  But most of the time the damage to gardens is done in late summer and not really significant. It consists of chewed areas on leaves and flowers.
Grasshoppers can be a hard pest to control and many pesticides aren’t effective. It’s probably not a wise investment of time and money to use chemical pesticides to control grasshoppers. Some states are allowing bio-pesticides- viruses and parasites, to be released to control grasshoppers. Hand picking them or allowing chickens into the garden can help, but beware, chickens also love veggies and flowers.  Fine netting can exclude them from prized plants. They rarely bother mowed lawns. Grasshoppers do more damage to grass pasture land and can also transmit viruses to livestock when feeding. See Link https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/08/090830091156.htm
What eats grasshoppers?
Grasshoppers have many natural predators.  Toads and frogs, snakes, birds and mice, even cats and foxes feed on them. One North American species of grasshopper, the Eastern Lubber, is poisonous enough to kill small animals and birds.  It’s a large 3-inch fat grasshopper that’s brightly colored in reds and green. The wings are reduced to bumps and it doesn’t fly, or even move quickly. 
A human who ate a Lubber won’t die, although he might get pretty sick, but people do eat other grasshoppers regularly.  In some areas of Mexico grasshoppers are fried in a spicy sauce and rolled in tortillas.  They are regularly stir fried and roasted in Asian countries. Native Americans set grasslands on fire to drive out grasshoppers for collection and eating.  Grasshoppers are often touted as a survival food.  They should be cooked before being eaten because they can carry parasites.  (You’d have to be pretty desperate to eat a raw grasshopper).
When grasshoppers become locusts
Until the early 1900’s it was thought that the ravaging hordes of locusts that are the stuff of sad novels and biblical lore were a separate species from grasshoppers.  We now know that about 10 species of grasshoppers can change into locusts when conditions are right.  Here’s how it works.
After several mild winters and lush summer’s, a huge population of young grasshoppers builds up one year.  Then a drought strikes, and the grasshoppers accumulate wherever there is good vegetation left.  As they feed closely together- which in itself can be considered a plague- huge groups of tiny grasshoppers, they rub legs.  This somehow triggers a release of the hormone serotonin.
Serotonin causes the young grasshoppers wings to become stronger and larger and the body smaller.  They are darker, more active, breed more often than other grasshoppers and actively seek other locusts. As well as changing the body shape the hormone causes changes to the brain causing swarm behavior. When the food supply is exhausted they rise in huge swarms sometimes miles across and fly to other food sources.  These swarms devour all vegetation in their path.
A swarm of locusts is very hard to stop. Like swarming bees, they almost become one insect, flying in clouds that darken the sky and send shivers down peoples spines from the deafening rustling of their wings. Cold weather, the oceans or deserts or running out of food are often the only thing that can stop them, although sometimes we hear of flocks of birds helping block their passage by feasting on them.
Grasshoppers and hairworms
Another fascinating or gross fact about grasshoppers depending on your viewpoint, is the fact that they harbor a parasitic roundworm called the hairworm.  These worms are sometimes seen floating in water in wiggling clusters, in puddles, livestock tanks, and even toilets and sinks. They have been found on cabbage plants but are not the common worm seen on cabbage. The adult hairworms live and breed in water where they deposit their eggs.  The eggs are ingested by grasshoppers and crickets, (and a few other insects) and hatch inside them.
Inside the grasshopper or cricket the baby worms grow to a large size- 2-3 times the length of their host when extended and they are big enough to be seen with the naked eye.  When they are mature and ready to leave their poor host, they secrete some kind of hormonal signal to the hosts brain, causing it to look for water. When it finds water the host insect dives in and drowns itself and the worms emerge to mate and live in the water.  The worm effectively directs the host to commit suicide, so it can be called a natural control for grasshoppers.
There are various answers to the question of whether hairworms can affect humans and larger animals.  Most references say they can’t parasitize humans.  But I have included a link to a scientific study that says they can as well as another link on hairworms. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3428576/
So, go out and look for the tobacco spitters and appreciate their oddities.  It’s amazing what the garden can hold.
Growing Catnip
Want a bee and butterfly friendly plant that’s also a helpful herb?  Bees love catnip flowers and it can be used to attract bees and butterflies to any garden. You may already have catnip growing around your home as it is a common weed in many areas.
Catnip is an easy herb to grow.  If you have trouble growing catnip you truly have a brown thumb.  Catnip grows just about anywhere, in any type of soil, in full sun and partial shade.  It grows in dry or wet areas.  For herbal use plant it in full sun and keep it on the dry side, to concentrate the medicinal oils.  Most people will buy plants if they can’t find a place to pull up a seedling. Don’t fertilize it.  It doesn’t need it and the medicinal qualities may suffer.
Young catnip plants
The common catnip, Nepeta cataria is native to the Mediterranean area of Europe but has spread throughout Europe and North America and many other places, where it grows freely as a weed.  The genus Nepeta has many species, some of which are called catmints and are grown as ornamental plants. The names are often used interchangeably but catnip and catmint are all members of the mint family.  The weedy medicinal type plant is generally referred to as catnip and ornamental varieties and other Nepeta species are called catmints. 
Like most mints, catnip, has a square stem.  The catnip stem is covered with fine hairs and grows woody near the base as it ages.  The leaves of common catnip are heart-shaped, gray green and have a scalloped edge.  They are covered with soft hairs and appear downy.    
The catnip flowers are small spikes of white flowers with tiny purple dots on the throat, and not very showy.  In good conditions catnip can grow to 5 feet high and 3 feet wide. The plant is tough and spreads rapidly by seed through the garden, popping up everywhere.  
Catnip is a perennial that dies down to the roots each winter and then returns quite vigorously in the spring.  It is hardy to at least zone 4 and probably further.
Using Catnip Medicinally
Long before true tea found its way to Europe people were brewing catnip tea.  It was used medicinally and just as a soothing warm drink.  It was often given to children to calm them and help them sleep.  Catnip tea is used to calm the digestive system and relieve gas pains and soothed the colic pains that were keeping crabby children awake.  It still makes a safe and soothing tea.
Catnip induces perspiration and is used as a fever remedy and as a headache remedy.   Warm bruised leaves are also used as a poultice on wounds and boils.  Catnip has also been used in strong concentrations to bring on menstruation. Catnip oil is being tested as a mosquito repellent.
The active chemical ingredient in catnip is nepetalactone.  The flower buds have the highest concentration of this chemical, but leaves are also used to make tea.  Never bring catnip leaves and buds to a boil as this destroys the medicinal action. Instead gently steep it as one does green tea.  Fresh leaves and buds can be used for tea or you can use dried leaves. About a half cup of bruised leaves and buds or a couple teaspoons of dried herb are used to a cup of water. 
Catnip tea is available in most stores now, but it is easy to dry your own leaves.  Cut the tender top of the stems with young leaves and preferably some flower buds in the early morning after the dew has dried.  Hand upside down in small bunches to dry in a warm dark place or use a dehydrator.  You can also enclose the cut stems in a brown paper bag and place it in your car in the sun for a few days.  Beware that drying catnip isn’t the most pleasant car deodorizer.  When catnip is crumbly dry store it in clean containers with tight lids.
Catnip is fairly safe as far as dosage is concerned.  You would have to drink large quantities before it became toxic and you would vomit long before that. If you are taking prescription medications check with your doctor before taking herbal remedies.
Cats and Catnip
Not all cats are affected by catnip.  About 15% of cats lack a gene that makes them respond to catnip.  Cats must be sexually mature to be interested also. The smell of catnip affects them like a hormone.  Some eat it, some roll on it, some go crazy and wild on it, and others are barely affected.  It does not hurt them, but it can hurt your house if the cat goes on a drugged rampage.   
Some wild cat species are attracted to catnip and some are not.  Bobcats and cougars appear to be interested but tigers and possibly lions are not.  A catnip “trip” will last about 15 minutes and after that it will take a while before the cat will react again.  Cats may pass right by catnip plants in the garden but will go nuts for it when a plant is bruised or pulled. 
Carrot and apple bread
It’s harvest season and carrots and apples are both abundant.  Why not make a treat that’s healthy and delicious?  This will make two average sized loaves.
Ingredients
3 cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup sugar
½ cup brown sugar
2 eggs
½ cup melted butter or oil
3 cups of finely chopped, peeled apple
1 cup of finely grated, peeled carrot
1 cup of chopped walnuts or pecans

Blend the flour with the spices, baking soda and salt.
Blend the butter, sugars, and eggs together until creamy.
Beat the dry ingredients into the butter mixture until smooth.
Fold in the apple, carrot and nuts, blending until well distributed in batter.
Pour into 2 greased loaf pans.
Bake at 350 degrees F about 1 hr., a toothpick inserted should come out clean and the sides will shrink a bit from the sides of the pan, and the top will be lightly golden when done.
Cool before cutting.
 Apples and crisp fall air, enjoy them
Kim Willis
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