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Monday, December 4, 2017

December 5, 2017 Kim’s Weekly Garden Blog

Hi Gardeners

Chive flowers
After some very mild weather our weather is due to slide into colder winter temperatures tonight.  By the end of the week our highs are predicted to be below freezing.  In fact, a great deal of the eastern half of the country is going to get very cold.  December 1 is the beginning of meteorological winter, so this shouldn’t be a surprise.

It was nice this weekend though and I was feeling well enough to take a stroll around the yard.  Almost everything is brown and dried up except the grass, but I was struck by how vibrant green and vigorous the Arum italicum is.  This plant produces new leaves in the fall, glossy green arrow shaped leaves sometime mottled with white.

In mild winters the Arum will stay green all winter, although here they are usually brown after being covered with snow.  The leaves go dormant in the summer and here the plants are pretty well buried in ferns and hosta in summer.  But after the hosta and ferns have drooped and died the arum shines on.

Besides the arum I notice snapdragons are coming up from seed shed this summer.  I think they will survive the winter and bring me early flowers next year.  The older snapdragons are still green too.

I rescued a tiny Venus Fly Trap from the clearance rack at the grocery store.  After I got it home I had second thoughts. What was I thinking? Now I must go around the house looking for a fly or something for it to eat.  I see a little spider above my desk right now- maybe I should catch it to feed the flytrap.  The little plant may go to live with a grandchild or probably a great grandchild who enjoys catching bugs.  I have a lot of things to feed around here and I don’t need to add plants to the list.

I have many houseplants in bloom right now.  The bouvardia, fuchsia, Christmas cactus, streptocarpus, and hibiscus are all blooming.  If you want a beautiful, abundantly blooming hibiscus try the variety ‘Kona’.  This double pink beauty blooms frequently and is a vigorous grower.  

Do you have your bird feeders full?  It’s time to get out that suet and sunflower seed.  That’s really all you need to attract a wide variety of birds.  If you can afford thistle seed add that too.  Most cheap birdseed mixes are full of things birds only reluctantly eat if nothing else is available.  Things like cracked corn, milo, wheat, oats, even millet are generally just wasted and help attract animals like mice, rats and squirrels.  Those critters will eat sunflower seed too, but the birds beat them to it most of the time.

You are getting this newsletter a day early.  I have some family business to take care of on Tuesday.
 
Hibiscus 'Kona'
December Almanac

This month’s full moon is called the Full Cold or Long Nights moon and it occurred on December 3rd.  This was the final supermoon of the year.  There are two meteor displays that may be visible in December.  On the 13th and 14th there is the peak of the best regular meteor event, the Geminids meteor shower. Some meteors may be visible from the 4th through the 17th.  But on the peak days around 120 meteors or shooting stars may be seen per hour.  The best viewing is after midnight.  On December 21st – 23rd will be the peak of a lesser meteor shower, the Ursids meteor shower, which typically produces about 10 meteors per hour at its peak. 

Wednesday, December 21, 2017 is the winter solstice. It marks the longest night of the year and the beginning of winter.  At this time the sun is at its farthest point in the southern sky and lowest point on the horizon.  (For an interesting site that will show you where the sun and moon are in the sky at the exact time you access the site go to this site and choose your closest city) http://www.timeanddate.com/astronomy/usa/

You’ll notice that the earliest sunset and the shortest day are not the same.  The earliest sunset occurs December 5th (today) when the sun sets at 5 pm (in the Flint, MI. area).  And the sun will set at that time until December 14th – when it gains a minute. It’s the time of sunrise that makes the difference in day length.  On the solstice the sun rises at 8:03 am and sets at 5:03pm in the Flint, Mi. area.  Your area may have slightly different sunrise and sunset times.

Many people including myself consider the Winter Solstice to be the end of the old year. The sun turns or changes direction.  Now the days will be getting longer, if only by seconds at first. Re-birth, renewal, the conquering of death, the return of the sun is symbolized in the solstice. It’s a time for celebration as it was for our early ancestors.  Christmas is celebrated near the solstice because people already celebrated re-birth and promise at this time and early Christians frequently borrowed old rituals. 

The time around the solstice, the 21st-24th, is when the ancients believed that man’s mind was most open to spiritual enlightenment and positive life changes. It was a time of meditation and reflection. You were supposed to wish for self- improvement, knowledge, healing of spiritual wounds and the ability to meet personal goals.  It was not a time to wish for material things and if gifts were given it was to the very poor or the gifts were symbolic in nature.  Wouldn’t it be nice if everyone spent three days in meditation and reflection before the great orgy of material things that Christmas has become?

Burn some oak wood at midnight and make a wish for what you desire as you look into the fire.  Take some time to reflect on what you could have done better last year and decide your path for the new year.

December’s birthstone is turquoise. The December birth flower is oddly enough the narcissus.  This may be because it was associated with death, (its poisonous) by the ancient Romans and Greeks but now it is often used as a symbol of hope.  We are entering the time of the death of the old year but still, it seems odd.  In flower “language” narcissus is said to mean “you are the only one” or alternatively faithfulness, respect and modesty.

Recently holly has been favored to replace narcissus as the December birth flower and to me seems more appropriate.  Holly is a symbol of domestic happiness in flower language. Orchids are also listed as the December flower in some places.

Things to celebrate in December besides the solstice and Christmas include National Mutt day the 2nd ,  Pearl Harbor Day- the 7th  and Poinsettia day on the 12th, also on the 12th its Gingerbread house day and National cocoa day, National Bake Cookies day, the 18th , Look for Evergreens day the 19th   Besides being Christmas Eve the 24th is National Chocolate day and National Egg Nog day. December 31st is World Peace Meditation Day as well as New Years eve.

December is National Bingo month, National AIDS awareness month, National Buckwheat month and Universal Human Rights month.


How to water houseplants

Everyone loves homes and offices filled with the restful, cheerful green of houseplants.  But some people just can’t seem to keep houseplants thriving in the home or office and a great deal of the problems can be traced to improper watering. Learning to water your houseplants correctly can turn brown thumbs into green ones.

First- don’t water on a schedule.  Don’t say that every Wednesday you will water the plants.  You might schedule a day to check the plants to see if they need water but don’t just automatically go around and water each pot.  Some plants won’t need water on the same day each week, and some may need it more often to remain healthy. 

The need for water can vary tremendously from house to house and week to week.  On a gray, gloomy winter day when the house is cool plants may need less water.  Or they may need more water if the furnace has been running constantly and the outside humidity is low.  They may need more water in a week when its been sunny and cold- since sun dries out pots and the furnace dries out the air.  They may need less water if its been warmer but very humid.

Plants may need less water in the winter when plants slow down their growth.  When warm weather arrives, and the light is strong and growth vigorous they will need additional water.  Plants in plastic or metal pots usually need less water than those in porous clay or ceramic pots. A single isolated plant dries out more quickly than plants in large groups.

Kalanchoe synsepala 'Gremlin' is a plant that likes to
dry out between watering.

Symptoms of watering problems

The symptoms of over watering and under watering are often the same – wilting.  Wilting can happen because the soil is dry and the top parts of the plant don’t get enough water.  Or it can mean that the soil in the pot is saturated with water, the plants roots have rotted, and the top of the plant isn’t getting any water through those rotted roots.   When a plant looks wilted you should immediately feel the planting soil to see if it feels dry. Don’t just touch the top- push your finger in the soil about an inch- or more for deep pots. If you touch the soil and it feels very wet, then the pot needs draining and drying, not more water, even if the plant is wilted.

Experienced plant owners can often look at a plant and know when it needs water.  I can look at my lemon tree and if I see the slightest roll of the leaves, exposing the lighter underside, I check to see if it needs water. Some plants wilt dramatically, collapsing in a heap, but others are more subtle.  Don’t let the plant wilt on a regular basis just so you know when it needs water. Some plants recover pretty well each time but it takes a toll on the plants health and disease and insect resistance will be reduced. 

Signs that the plant is suffering from dry soil other than wilting include yellowing and dropping leaves, dry leaf tips and poor flowering.  The soil may look hard and crusty and be drawn away from the sides of the pot. This creates a small gap between the soil and the pot and when you water the water goes right through the pot without soaking the soil.  If you notice water pouring out the drainage holes as soon as you pour water on the plant that is usually what is happening. 

To fix this super dry condition place the pot in a larger container of water and let it soak or put it in the tub and let water drip on it for a couple of hours.  The soil should saturate and expand.  Make sure the pot drains well after a couple of hours.  Then try not to let the pot get that dry again.

If you notice a swampy smell from your flower pots you are probably keeping them too wet.  As mentioned before the signs of over watering, or too wet soil are often the same as those plants which are too dry.  Plants wilt, turn yellow, brown or black and leaves and flowers fall off.

If you suspect overwatering immediately check to see if the pot can drain.  Dump the saucer if it has water in it.  Sometimes that’s all that’s needed- just don’t water the pot again until it feels dry. If the pot is extremely wet slide the rootball out of the pot unto a piece of newspaper in the sink or in a bucket and let it air dry for a day. Then re-pot it in fresh, only moderately moist potting medium.  People often swing too far the other way after over watering and let the pot dry out too much, make sure to water when the potting medium feels dry to the touch.

If you don’t trust your sense of touch to let you know if a plant needs water, there are many inexpensive tools on the market that will tell you if the soil is too dry.  And remember that each species of plant has a different requirement for water.  Some like to dry out between watering or even prefer to remain on the dry side.  And there are plants who won’t do well unless the potting medium is always moist.  You need to do your homework to see what your plant prefers.

If a plant needs water use room temperature water.  Rain water and distilled water are best for house plants but either city water or well water can be used.  Both softened city water and well water have “salts” in them that can build up in the planting soil.   More about that in a minute.   A few plant species are sensitive to chlorine and fluoride added to city water.  For those plants you should use rain water or distilled water.

The type of pot that you use for houseplants is crucial to their health.  It must have good drainage.  Do not use a pot without drainage holes even if you add gravel or broken pot pieces to the bottom. What this does is create what is known as a “perched” water level.  Water builds up in the spaces around your gravel and it doesn’t have much chance to evaporate.  A saturated soil layer develops just above the gravel.  And soon your plant roots are rotting.

Pots with reservoirs, those known as self-watering pots, are a little better but they also come with problems.  The soil is generally separated from direct contact with water, a wicking system is used to draw water out of the reservoir.  You don’t get the perched water table effect.  But people often can’t tell when the reservoir needs water or they count on the water lasting longer than it does.

If you have a pretty pot without drain holes that you want to use find a slightly smaller pot with good drainage that will fit inside the pretty pot. Then put your plant into the smaller pot. You’ll have to remember to empty the outer pot soon after you water the inner pot. You can’t just let the water sit there.  Or you can make it simple and drill holes in the pot without drainage.

Pots should neither be too small or large for the plant.  Large pots are hard to water correctly, the water moves down out of the reach of the plants roots or the top layer remains dry and the bottom is saturated and damaging plant roots.  Pots that are too small and are filled with roots will need watering much more often than people realize and may be impossible to keep them watered as often as they need it.  They will need to be re-potted.

Reducing salt build up

Both hard and soft water have chemical salts that get into the potting soil when we water plants.  Fertilizers also contain chemical salts.  Outdoors excess salts usually move through the soil and out of the range of plant roots, but in a pot they have nowhere to go.  They end up burning the plants roots and stunting its growth or even killing it.  Often a whitish- yellow crusty build up on top of the soil or even on the outside of the pot will be noticed.

Signs of excess salt damage include stunted growth, sometimes reddish or yellow discoloration of foliage, dry, browned leaf tips and loss of lower leaves and wilting from burned root tips. 

To keep salts from building up use distilled water or rainwater to water plants if possible.  If not water the plants and then empty the saucers that collect the excess water after an hour or so.  Salt that is washed through the pot when you water won’t then be absorbed back into the pot as the soil dries out again.  This is usually not enough to totally stop salt build up, especially if you regularly fertilize your houseplants. 

Every few months pots watered with soft city water or hard well water should be leached.  The pot needs to be placed in tub or sink with drainage and flooded with water continuously for a couple hours.  Let the water run slowly through the pot so soil doesn’t get washed away too.  In some cases of heavy salt build up it may be better to repot the plant with fresh potting soil.

Limit caretakers

In cases where more than one person is interested in the indoor plants it is a good idea to agree to let one person be responsible for watering plants in the home or office.  At the least everyone should care for the plants in their personal space and let one person water the plants in common spaces.  Too many people watering isn’t always great for the plants and one regular caretaker gets a better feel for when a plant needs water.

Properly watering your houseplants along with choosing the right plants for the conditions will result in beautiful lush plants you will be proud to display.

 Choosing a real Christmas tree

Fewer people choose real trees for Christmas anymore and there are good reasons both for using a real tree and using a fake one.  But if you choose to get a real tree don’t feel guilty about a tree being sacrificed.  Most Christmas trees sold were grown for that purpose and are a crop like corn or tomatoes.  Even if you choose a tree from a National Forest or private land the chances are good that removing the tree will not adversely affect the environment.

Early December is not too early to cut or pick a Christmas tree if you can store it outside or somewhere cool.  Most trees sold in stores or corner lots are cut down by now.  Cutting or choosing your tree early not only gives you a better selection but may keep you from picking the tree in worse winter weather.
 
Last year we needed to cull some red  pines so this scrawny
tree became our Christmas tree.
A real tree can be recycled and returns nutrients to the soil.  It doesn’t require fossil fuel to make it, as artificial trees do.  The problem with getting a real tree is that many people have never had one and don’t know what species to choose or what to look for in a good Christmas tree.  Here’s a few tips that may help you choose the right tree.

The most common evergreen tree species sold for Christmas trees are Balsam, Fraiser and Concolor firs, Douglas Fir, Scotch Pine, Blue Spruce, White spruce and White pine.  Some species are more common in some states than others.

The firs all smell nice but have a more open shape and don’t take heavy ornaments that well.  The needles aren’t scratchy but drop fairly quickly inside.  Don’t put these up early.

Scotch pines are dense and pleasing in shape, hold heavy ornaments and smell pretty good.  They are prickly but hold their needles a long time inside.

A Scotch pine Christmas tree from my childhood.

Blue spruce and other spruces have good shapes, are dense and strong but their smell is not pleasant. They are also scratchy when decorating.  Most spruce hold their needles a long time.  They are generally more expensive than other trees.

White pines that have been pruned for a denser shape make pretty good Christmas trees but are more open than pines or spruce and don’t take heavy ornaments well. They smell nice, but not strongly.  They retain needles well and are said to be the least allergenic of the Christmas tree species.

Look for a full, symmetrical tree at a Christmas tree farm or sales stand.  Forest trees are not pruned into shape the way trees on commercial Christmas tree farms are pruned so trees you have to choose from in a National forest or on unmanaged private property won’t be as symmetrical or full. 

Bring a tape measure! Measure the tree to make sure you can get it through your doors, that it will stand upright in your room and won’t take more space than you have for it.  If you are at a commercial tree farm you may have to pay for the tree by the foot so take that in consideration also.

Look at the tree trunk to make sure it’s straight and not oddly shaped.  A tree may appear to be straight but the trunk may have an odd angle that will make inserting it in a stand and keeping it upright hard.  Make sure the diameter of the trunk will fit your stand.

If you are cutting the tree leave a long “stem” on the tree because you need to do a second cut across the stump before you put it in the stand.  This makes sure the tree can take up water.  And make your cut as straight across the trunk as possible.

After the tree is cut give it a few quick bounces on the ground to dislodge loose needles.  You may want to check for bird nests.  Some people think they are lucky and leave them in the tree.  But bird nests may contain pests like lice or even mice and probably should be removed. 

The easiest way to carry the tree back to the car is to wrap it in a tarp.  Some tree sellers will wrap the tree in netting.  This protects the tree and makes it easier to handle.  If the tree is to ride home on top of the car it should be wrapped in a tarp or blanket and the bottom of the tree should point to the front of the car.  Secure it tightly with ropes or bungee cords.

Once you have the tree home store it outside in a cool, shady place in a bucket of water until you are ready to put it up inside.  You’ll want it where dogs and cats can’t “anoint” it for you or where deer or other animals could nibble it.  Trees store well outside in cool weather for several weeks. Live trees should not go up inside the house until 7-10 days before Christmas and should be removed within a few days after Christmas.  Have a great holiday!

Growing chives, inside and outside

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) are one of the easiest herbs or vegetables to grow outside and they are also one of the herbs that will do well growing on a windowsill indoors.  Both the green round leaves and the flowers of chives are edible and the plants can be woven into the flower beds where the flowers will provide attractive spring blooms. Not only are the flowers pretty but they also attract bees and butterflies with their nectar.

Chives are perennial members of the onion family and native to China, Eastern Europe and North America.  They have naturalized in many other temperate areas of the world.  Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum) are related but have distinct differences.
 
Chives in the garden
Chives have round, hollow leaves that when broken have that distinctive oniony smell.  When they begin growing in spring they can be mistaken for clumps of grass.  You just need to examine and smell a leaf to make the right identification.   Garlic chives smell similar, but their leaves are flat and not hollow. 

Chives grows best in the cooler times of the year such as spring and fall but remains green and growing throughout summer, and in milder areas may stay green all winter.  It can be continually harvested during growing season as long as no more than half the plant is removed at a time. 

The flowers of chives are a rosy purple. The 6 petaled tubes flare to a star shape, and grow in clusters of 10-30 flowers in a rounded ball.  The flowers are at the end of “scapes”, stiff stems that hold them above the foliage.  The flowers have a nectar that is quite attractive to bees and some butterflies. Chives flowers in late spring to early summer.  The flowers turn into 3 sectioned seed pods filled with tiny black seeds.  Chive flowers can be dried for dried flower arrangements.

Chives prefers full sun outside but will survive in partial shade.  It will grow in any well drained soil.  Gardeners will generally start with plants although chives are fairly easy to grow from seeds.  Be aware that chives often spread rapidly both by increasing the clump diameter and by seed. Once a gardener has chives in the garden they rarely are without them.

To start chives from seed simply sprinkle the seeds on moist planting medium and press them lightly into the soil.  The tiny seedlings look like a blade of grass.  Let them get several leaves before transplanting into the garden or into a windowsill pot.

Outside chives are moderately drought tolerant and will only need to be watered when it’s really dry.  Watering in the summer heat will keep them tender and tasty though.  If you frequently clip the leaves to use in cooking the chives plant will appreciate some slow release fertilizer once a month.

The root system of chives forms small bulbs just like other members of the onion family.  You can divide a clump of chives in the spring leaving 2-3 bulbs per new plant.  Even if you don’t want more plants your clump of chives should be divided every 3 years to keep it vigorous.  If you don’t use the flowers in cooking clip them off as they start to fade so they don’t put energy into producing seeds- unless you want seeds.

If you are growing chives on the windowsill inside pick the sunniest window you have, preferably a south or west window.   Chives will also do well under a grow light.  Make sure the pot the chives are in drains well and let the pot dry out slightly between watering.  Chives grown inside rarely flower but will provide you with tasty greens.  If you clip them frequently they will need fertilization about once a month.

Both inside and outside chives rarely suffer from insects or disease problems.
 
chives sprouting
Using chives

Chives have been used in cooking for thousands of years.  You simply cut off a few leaves ands mince them into tiny pieces.  I like chives in scrambled eggs, in cheese dishes, in salads, and even in breads and biscuits.  Chives blended with cream cheese is a favorite dip of many people.  They are also used to flavor meats.

Chive flowers make a pretty, edible garnish for salads and other foods.  Both the leaves and flowers can be dried and stored or frozen and stored.  Dried chives have less flavor than fresh but are still good.  Frozen chives seem to lose little flavor and are my favorite way to preserve them.

Chives are rich in calcium, iron, vitamin A and C.  Medicinally they are used as a mild diuretic and have antiseptic properties.  Chives help stimulate the appetite and some studies have shown that all members of the onion family may have a beneficial connection to preventing gastric and intestinal cancers.

Chives were used in earlier times to treat depression and at least one study found that chives improved dopamine functioning in animals.  Dopamine is a brain chemical linked to mood.  If you are feeling sad munch on some chives.

Gardeners often claim a border of chive plants helps repel Japanese beetles although no studies have been done to test this idea.

If you can have only one herb type plant, chives should probably be your choice.  They are easy to grow and have a pleasant mild flavor most people like.  Chives also have pretty flowers and attract pollinators.  What’s not to like?

Cheese and herb holiday scones

These herb and onion scones will go well with almost any meal.  Make several batches as your contribution to a holiday buffet.  I find rosemary the perfect herb to use with chives for these scones but you can use other herbs such as thyme or sage.  The red pepper and green chives add a touch of holiday color.  If you don’t have buttermilk add 1 tablespoon melted butter to a ½ cup of cream for almost the same taste.

 Ingredients
2 cups flour
1 egg lightly beaten
1 egg white lightly beaten
½ cup buttermilk
½ cup finely grated cheddar cheese (or your choice of cheese)
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons of finely diced green chives
¼ cup finely diced red sweet pepper
1 tablespoon water
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
12 sprigs of fresh rosemary

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or spray lightly with cooking spray.

Mix together flour, baking powder and soda, pepper, salt.

In another bowl mix together the buttermilk, whole egg, cheese, red pepper and onions.

Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the egg-milk mixture.  Mix together just until ingredients are blended and moist.

Turn dough out onto floured surface.  Knead lightly, folding dough over several times.  Dough should look smooth when kneaded enough.

Divide dough in half.  Roll each half into a circle about 5 inches across.  Cut each circle into 6 wedges.

Place wedges 1 inch apart on the baking sheet.

Mix together the remaining egg white with the water.  Brush the tops of each wedge then add a sprig of rosemary to the top of each.  Brush with egg white mixture again, coating the rosemary. 

Bake for about 15 minutes, until golden brown.  Serve warm.


Warm buttered scones, now that’s a winter treat.
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

© Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.

And So On….

Find Michigan garden events/classes here:
(This is the Lapeer County Gardeners facebook page)
An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Newsletter/blog information

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I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com

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