Hi
Gardeners
 |
| Tiger swallowtail on tithonia |
I’ve been out in the garden picking blackberries and
hopefully have enough for cobbler tonight.
We’ve been eating sweet corn from the garden and I’ve made my first quart
of refrigerator dill pickles. We’ve got
a pumpkin turning orange, that’s kind of scary.
My brugsmansia finally has buds. The peace lily that’s summering
outside is blooming. The coral drops I planted in a pot also have buds; I am
waiting to see what they actually look like when they bloom as they are a new
plant for me. The tithonia is blooming abundantly
(tithonia article below), and it’s attracting tiger swallowtail butterflies like
crazy. I actually saw my first monarch
butterfly this year on the tithonia. Just one and I haven’t seen it since;
hopefully it found all the milkweed around here and laid some eggs. The zinnias
are also attractive to butterflies.
The groundnut vine is blooming; it has interesting chocolate
colored flowers. The Japanese lanterns
are beginning to bloom; I’m growing them and the Love in a Mist for dried
flower arrangements. Woodland nicotiana
has started blooming, it self-seeds and has come up in a number of flower pots
I had outside last year. I even
transplanted some out of the little greenhouse last week where it had come up
in pots I thought were empty.
I whacked most of the Golden Glow rudbeckia down
because I couldn’t stand it’s floppy mess and I’m pretty tolerant of messy
garden plants. As I was cutting it the
bees were still trying to get to the flowers so I put all the flowers in a
bucket and set them on the deck. Then
Gizzy and I could sit and watch the bees and hummingbird moths visiting them.
As a gardener you learn something new all the
time. I actually wasn’t aware that
peppermint flowers smelled like peppermint.
I know when you brush the plants and bruise leaves you smell peppermint,
but today I was sitting near some blooming peppermint and noticed the smell. I
pecked a flower and yep- peppermint smell. Most mint flowers are attractive to
bees and if you are trying to help pollinators it’s good to tolerate some of
the mints in your garden even if they can be a bit invasive.
I’m getting plenty of catalogs for spring blooming
bulbs right now. I am really tempted by
those catalogs but I am running out of room unless I want to start some new
beds and I am running out of time and energy to care for any more beds. I’ll have to be really selective in what I
buy. If you want more tulips and daffodils
and other interesting spring bloomers now is the time to buy them, when the
selection is good and sales are going on.
 |
| The flopping Golden Glow had to go. |
Cross
Pollination and deformed fruit myths
Every year about this time people begin showing odd
fruits and vegetables to others and asking what happened. It may be that the fruit looked misshaped or
was a color the grower didn’t expect or maybe it didn’t look like what they
thought they planted. But almost
invariably someone will respond and say the odd fruit/vegetable was because of
cross pollination.
Technically that may be so – but the cross pollination
happened the year before and the odd plant grew from seeds resulting from that
cross pollination the previous year. It
did not happen in the gardeners plot this year.
With one exception common garden plants do not show a change in their
fruit due to cross pollination in the year the cross pollination occurs.
If two types of tomatoes are next to each other in your
garden and they happen to cross pollinate, let’s say a cherry tomato and a beef
steak type, the fruit the plants produce this year (the part of the tomato we
eat is a fruit) will look like cherry tomatoes on one plant and beefsteak on
the other, they won’t change the looks of their fruit because they had sex. But if you planted the seeds from one of
those tomatoes having crazy sex this year, let’s say from the cherry tomato,
the fruit that grows on those plants next year could be very different from the
typical cherry tomato.
So unless you are going to be saving seeds for planting
next year it doesn’t matter if you plant various types of tomatoes, peppers,
squash and so on next to each other.
This year’s fruit should look exactly like the variety you planted and
if it doesn’t something besides cross pollination occurred. We’ll get to that in a minute. Cross pollination does not affect leafy plant
parts or roots either, in the current year plants.
The one exception to the changes in this year’s fruit coming
from cross pollination in the same year is in sweet corn. If you plant yellow kernel corn varieties next
to white kernel corn varieties this year’s corn ears may have both colors of
corn kernels on each cob. Cross
pollination in corn may also affect the flavor of this year’s corn. Field corn, popcorn, or ornamental corn
varieties pollinating sweet corn will leave the sweet corn tougher and tasting
less sweet.
In addition some hybrid types of corn need to be kept
from cross pollination with other corn, even other sweet corn, if the true
flavor of the hybrid is to be achieved.
Varieties with se, syn, sh2, or SSW after the variety name need to be
isolated from other types of sweet corn, or field and ornamental corn.
So
what does happen when you get a deformed or odd looking fruit?
A number of things can cause changes in fruit as it
develops. Sometimes weather conditions,
mechanical injury, insects feeding, plant diseases, or pesticide exposure can
result in fruits looking odd. There may
have been a true mutation in the genes of the seed that produced the
plant. There may have been undetected
cross breeding the previous year, resulting in seeds that were hybrid and the
fruit from plants grown from those seeds have mixed genetic traits.
Sometimes insufficient pollination will cause
deformed fruit. Some plants require a
certain number of pollen grains to land on the female stigma and be successful
in fertilizing eggs in the ovary before fruit begins developing. When only 4 pollen grains land on the stigma
instead of the optimum 5 grains as an example, fruit may sometimes begin
developing but will be lopsided or not formed perfectly. It would not matter though whether the pollen
grains came from a different variety as long as they could fertilize egg cells.
In the vast majority of cases, with the exception of
pesticide exposure or possibly radiation exposure, the odd fruits would be
edible. (Remember anything with seeds is a fruit.) In many cases not all the fruit on a plant
will be affected, and the problem is a temporary one. Enjoy the oddball, take pictures but don’t
worry too much.
Many times when a gardener gets a fruit he or she wasn’t
expecting it’s because the seed variety or seedling wasn’t properly
labeled. How many times have you seen
people shopping in greenhouses removing plant tags from the cell packs
seedlings are growing in? They don’t
always get put back in the same place.
Sometimes the greenhouse/nursery accidently mislabeled them. Sometimes a stray seed from one variety gets
mixed in with another variety. If you
saved the seed yourself, you may have mixed up the varieties, or back to cross pollination-
your plants last year may have bred with other plants and the seeds have a
combination of the traits.
People don’t always read the description of seeds or
plants they are choosing carefully. I
remember a gentleman bringing in a white colored eggplant fruit to my office
and he was so excited to have found a new variety. But when I explained to him that there were
varieties of white eggplant on the market and we discussed it, we figured out
that he had planted a variety with white fruit, not the typical purple. He was unaware that eggplant fruits came in
various colors.
It’s easy for gardeners and nursery employees to mix up
plants with similar leaves, like squash, gourds, and pumpkins. Inexperienced gardeners who aren’t familiar with
plants can even mix up things like beans and cucumbers or tomatoes and peppers,
by forgetting where they planted what or by buying mislabeled plants and not
recognizing it.
Sometimes the plant is performing exactly as the
variety should but the gardener has harvested the fruit at the wrong time. I have had many people complaining to me that
their “green” pepper was actually red or purple. Bell peppers are generally picked when they
are young and still green. If they are
allowed to mature the fruit color changes to red, yellow, orange, purple or
other colors depending on variety. And
if you want red bell peppers and are only seeing green, just be patient, the
color will change, hopefully to red.
Generally cucumbers turn yellow or reddish when they
are completely mature, which is not when most people prefer to eat them and not
what you see in the grocery. Muskmelon
starts out with smooth green fruit that develops the brown netting near
maturity. Pumpkins start out green and
mature to orange, (or other colors).
When it comes to flowers, a change in color may be
caused by weather conditions, soil conditions, flower age or plant age. Some
plants have slightly different looking flowers the first year they bloom from
what the flowers will look like in following years. Other types of plants also have flower color
changes as flowers age.
Usually cross pollination does not affect flowers,
although in some plants any form of pollination may cause a subtle color change
in the flowers. Pink apple blossoms turn
very pale pink or white after pollination for example. White is less attractive to bees, keeping
them focused on the pink ones that still need pollination.
Many times when someone thinks a flower has changed
color from the previous year or even from earlier in the season it’s because
the flower is from a different plant.
Many plants reseed in the same location and the seeds can produce plants
with different colored flowers. When a
rose or other grafted plant seems to have a flower color change it’s often
because the grafted part has died and the plant is producing flowers from the
root portion. And then of course, there’s
always memory problems, and I confess, that’s why I take pictures and keep
records.
In short- the type of fruit, flowers, roots or
vegetative parts a plant has this year (with the exception of corn and maybe a
few other uncommon plants), has nothing to do with who it is sharing pollen
with. When a beagle mates with a poodle
you don’t expect it to start growing long curly hair. Any genetic phenotypes (looks) the plant has
this year will not be changed by it having sex.
Good
reasons to keep weeding the garden
When it’s hot and plants are mature enough to compete
well with weeds, gardeners sometimes give up on weeding. Besides the fact that weeds shade garden
plants and compete for water and nutrients, there is another reason to keep
weeds out of the garden. Some weeds also bring disease and harmful insects into
the garden.
 |
| Lambsquarters |
Common lambsquarters, pigweed and nightshade all get
some of the fungal diseases that tomatoes and potatoes get. These are extremely common weeds in home gardens. They can serve as a source of infection for
early and late blight and also septoria leaf spot. Nightshade is a perennial and some fungal
diseases may over winter in its living tissue.
(Petunias, while not a weed, can also carry some tomato-potato
diseases. Don’t plant them near those
crops.)
Dandelions and wild carrots or Queen Anne’s Lace,
growing near garden carrots may be a source of “aster yellows” a disease that
infects garden carrots. They are spread
to carrots by an insect called a leafhopper that feeds on both types of plants.
Many viral diseases are spread by aphids, leafhoppers
and beetles feeding on infected weeds and then moving to related garden
plants. Tobacco mosaic virus of tomatoes
and peppers, cucumber mosaic virus and powdery mildew are some diseases that
can be spread by insects from weeds to garden plants. Pests like the tomato hornworm may begin
feeding on nightshade and then move to tomatoes.
Other weeds that are important to remove from your
garden to help control disease and insects are;
prickly lettuce, sowthistles, Canadian goldenrod, ragweed, shepards
purse, purslane, yellow rocket, dayflower, deadnettle, teasel, heal all,
chickweed and bur cucumber.
 |
| Redroot pigweed |
If you grow raspberries or blackberries in the garden
all wild brambles should be removed for 100 feet around your plot. They serve as a reservoir for rust and other
diseases.
Despite a trend to naturalize gardens to sustain
beneficial insects, you must carefully choose which of those “natural plants”
you allow to grow in or close to your garden.
You are more likely to end with a problem rather than a natural solution
if you chose the wrong plants.
Tithonia
If you want a plant that attracts butterflies try some
tithonia or Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia
rotundifolia). These stately plants
are a magnet for butterflies and other pollinators and also look great in the
border. They are large plants, easily 6
feet or more tall and 2-3 feet wide so make sure you leave plenty of room for
them.
Tithonia is related to the sunflower and is native to
Mexico and Central America. It’s an
annual plant so it can be grown in almost any garden although since it’s a late
season bloomer northern gardeners may want to start it inside 6-8 weeks before
the last frost. ( In frost free areas
tithonia is a short lived perennial.)
The leaves of tithonia are oval to triangular in shape,
rough feeling, with hairs on the backside.
Some leaves may be lobed, and the leaves have a serrated edge. The plant makes thick stalks with several
branches. In moderately fertile soils,
with full sun and on the dry side the plants generally support themselves. In wetter, very fertile soil some staking may
be needed.
 |
| Tithonia |
The flowers of tithonia are daisy like and normally
bright, flaming orange, although yellow varieties exist. (Tithonia diversifolia has yellow flowers and is sometimes found in
catalogs.) They are about 5 inches across and have a raised center clump of
yellow stamens. They begin blooming in
mid-summer and bloom until frost.
Tithonia seeds look like small sunflower seeds and are enjoyed by birds.
Tithonia seeds are easy to start and in many areas
plants are hard to come by so gardeners will probably need to start them from
seed. You can start them where they are
to grow or start them inside in pots 6-8 weeks before your last frost is
expected. Plant tithonia seeds or plants
outside after the danger of frost has passed.
Thin plants to at least 2 feet apart – they grow quickly and become
quite large.
Tithonia will grow in almost any soil, as long as it’s
well drained. They will tolerate partial
shade in the south but bloom best everywhere in full sun. They will tolerate dry conditions quite
well. Fertilization is seldom needed and
plants that are fertilized or grown in very rich soil tend to be floppy and
have fewer flowers.
Few insect or disease problems are noted in tithonia
although Japanese beetles and slugs sometimes bother them. Keep plants dead headed to prolong bloom.
Herbal
and other uses of tithonia
Besides drawing butterflies and looking beautiful
tithonia makes a good cut flower. In
Mexico the plants are fed to rabbits and goats.
There are no known human food uses and the taste of the plant is said to
be very bitter. Dried stems are used as
fuel. Tithonia can be grown as a living fence and is said to be a good cover
crop to improve soil.
Indigenous uses for the plant include a malaria
treatment from leaf extracts. Modern
medical studies found that plant extracts killed 50-75% of malaria parasites in
the blood. Also an essential oil made
from the leaves did have some effect on repelling mosquitoes.
An 80% ethanol extract of the leaves was found in one
clinical study to lower blood glucose.
Leaf extracts were also found to have antibacterial properties.
Folk remedies for tithonia also include it’s use on
wounds to reduce swelling and pain from inflammation, for constipation, stomach
pain and indigestion and for sore throats.
Caution: the reason tithonia extracts have not been
widely used in modern medicines is that chemicals in the plant have been found
to damage the liver and kidneys even in moderate doses. Leave experimenting with this plant to experts.
What
to do if your dog gets sprayed by a skunk
Skunks do not like dogs. While a skunk may give a human a pass if they
don’t bother it, a dog will almost certainly provoke an unpleasant reaction
from a skunk. Skunks are found
throughout the United States, in the city as well as the suburbs and
country. If not scared they are pretty
harmless critters, with only a whiff of odor to show they are near. But surprise or scare a skunk and you will
regret it for a long time.
When a dog gets sprayed by a skunk it’s a pretty
unpleasant experience, both for them and their owners. Your immediate response to a skunk sprayed
dog will probably be to run far away, but if you love your dog you’ll want to
help it and it will probably run after you anyway. So here’s what to do to get your dog smelling
like a dog again.
It’s rare that a dog that’s skunk sprayed will be able
to sneak by you. If the smell isn’t
immediately overwhelming the dogs howling and crying will probably let you know
what’s happened. The first thing you’ll
want to do is confine the dog somewhere it can’t rub and roll on furniture and
rugs. You’ll probably want to make this
an outside place. The yard, the garage,
the barn or a shed or as a last resort the basement are suggested. And you’ll want to cover your nose while you
do it. Then you will probably want to put
on some old clothes before you deal with the dog.
As quickly as possible you should check the dog’s
eyes. Many times the skunk spray will
get in a dogs eyes and it’s extremely painful.
The dog’s eyes will be red and watery and he or she will probably be
pawing at them. Try to wash the eyes out
with plain, barely warm water. You could
also use eye drops for humans (or dogs), if it doesn’t contain a prescription
medicine. The dog may be agitated and in
pain so be careful you don’t get bit.
Dogs rarely go blind from skunk spray but they are in pain.
Next you will want to mix up this solution.
1 quart of
warm water
1 quart of
3% hydrogen peroxide ( found at any drug store)
1 cup of
baking soda
2-3
tablespoons of liquid soap. This can be
dish or liquid hand soup or even shampoo.
Mix all of this in a bucket just before you plant to
use it. Don’t store it in anything
that’s capped or sealed or you’ll get an explosion. You’ll probably want to buy enough supplies
to make several batches, especially if the dog is large. Don’t make the solution stronger or you may
irritate the dog’s skin too much or cause its hair to bleach out.
Massage your mixture into the dog’s coat, making sure
to get the belly, tail, legs, anywhere the spray may have landed. Cover the dog’s eyes as you work the solution
into the head and ears. Do not get this
solution in the dog’s eyes! Let the
solution sit in the dogs fur for about 5 minutes, then rinse it out with warm
water. You’ll probably want do a second
wash with the solution, especially if the dog has long dense fur. Make sure to thoroughly rinse the solution
out of the dog’s coat. Throw out unused
solution, it doesn’t save well.
This solution is slightly irritating to the dog’s skin
but it won’t change the color of the fur.
You might want to follow with a cream rinse for dogs to smooth the
fur. In cold weather you’ll want to wash
the dog and let it dry in a warm spot or at least use a hair dryer to get the
coat dry. You may notice a slight smell
in the next few weeks whenever the dog gets wet. You can do a follow up wash in a week or so
with the solution or just use a deodorant shampoo for dogs.
Don’t waste your time washing a skunk sprayed dog with
tomato juice, it doesn’t really work. If
you get sprayed along with the dog you can use this solution to wash yourself
also but be very careful using it on clothing, furniture or other items as it
may discolor them. Try a small area
first if you are desperate.
Avoiding
skunks in the future
If you let your dog roam the countryside freely there’s
a good chance it will have at least one encounter with a skunk. If your dog gets sprayed by a skunk it may
avoid all skunks and even things that look like skunks in the future but some
dogs never learn. If your dog gets
sprayed more than once you’ll need to watch him or her carefully when they are
outside.
Skunks are usually active at night, but dogs can and do
find their resting spots in the daytime and will get sprayed in
retaliation. Skunks don’t truly
hibernate but spend most of the cold weather sleeping in a snug den. They may come out during warm spells to eat
and mate in early spring. They are more active in late fall and early spring
and since the days are shorter at this time there is more of a chance that your
dog will be out and about when they are.
Healthy skunks do not attack dogs or other
animals. They may not seem overly
concerned about you if you are without a dog but they will generally move away
from you. Any skunk that seems
aggressive without being cornered or provoked may have rabies, particularly if
it is out in the daytime. You should
avoid them and keep pets away. Call your
local animal control and report it.
Make sure dogs always have up to date rabies
shots. Usually a dog doesn’t get too
close to a skunk before it gets sprayed and the spray sends it running. But some dogs will catch the skunk and if it
is diseased that can be a big problem.
If your dog actually catches and/or kills the skunk talk to a vet about
any treatment the dog may need.
If you have seen skunks in your yard it’s a good idea
to keep dogs from exploring under porches and sheds and in deep brush areas
where skunks may hide. Don’t leave pet
food out at night to attract skunks and the mice they like to feed on. Don’t set live traps for skunks unless you
are brave enough to transport the animal to a safe release point. Let a professional do it.
While skunks may do some damage to lawns looking for
grubs they are a generally a beneficial animal, eating harmful insects and
mice. Leave them alone and they will
leave you alone.
Ways
to cook and preserve sweet corn.
My favorite way to cook sweet corn is to put some water
on the stove in a large pot, go to the garden and pick and husk the corn and
place it in the pot as the water begins to boil. Add a cup of milk and some butter to the pot,
how much butter is up to you, I add about 2 tablespoons. Cover and cook the corn at a slow boil for
5-7 minutes depending on the size of the ears.
You’ll be amazed how the milk brings out the flavor of the corn. Of course if you can’t handle any dairy you
can use plain water.
You can remove much of the thick, dark green husks on
the corn, leaving some of the light green- white husk attached. Gently pull that down and remove as much of
the silk on the cob as you can. Then
smooth the thin husk back over the corn.
Soak the ears in the husk in salty water for 10 minutes or so, then
remove and let them drain. The ears can
then be put on the grill, on low heat, and cooked about 10 minutes, rotating
the side against the grill frequently.
The ears in light husks can also be placed in the microwave for a few
minutes.
Canning
corn
If you have an abundance of sweet corn you can preserve
it by canning. You’ll need to cut the
kernels from the cob. You can buy hand
held gadgets that help you cut the corn off the cob or you can just use a sharp
knife. For food safety, corn needs to be canned in a pressure canner.
Some types of corn will brown during the canning
process. This is more likely to happen
with super sweet varieties and corn that’s still quite immature. Use your most mature corn for canning. The browning doesn’t affect the flavor or
keeping quality, it’s a cosmetic problem.
Some varieties of sweet corn are better for canning than others, if you
intend to can a lot of corn look in seed descriptions for good canning
varieties.
You’ll need about 20 pounds of corn in the husk to fill
8-9 pint size jars. A pint is about the
right size jar for a small family.
Gather 9 clean pint jars and new lids, a large pot and a large bowl and
some non-iodized salt such as kosher or canning salt.
Here’s the process:
Husk the corn, remove the silk and trim off bad areas.
Get a large pot of water boiling. Put a few ears in the pot and leave for 3
minutes. Remove and cut corn from the cob into a large bowl. Repeat until you have cut the corn from all
the cobs.
Measure out how many cups of cut corn you have and
place it in a large pot. For every 4
cups of corn add one cup of water to the pot.
Bring the pot to a boil, turn down to simmer and simmer 5 minutes. Turn off heat.
Put a ½ teaspoon of salt in each jar. Ladle corn and water into each jar to 1 inch
from the rim. Don’t can jars that you
can’t fill, you can use the leftover corn up by eating it that day. Swirl a butter knife or bubble stick through
each jar to remove bubbles. Wipe the rim and put on the lid.
Put your filled jars in a pressure canner. Make sure you read and follow the directions
that come with your canner but here’s a brief description of the process. For a dial gauge canner set the dial at 11
pounds for 0-2000 feet in altitude, 12 pounds for 2001-4,000 feet, 13 pounds
for 4001-6,000 feet and 14 pounds above that.
For a weighted gauge pressure canner use 10 pounds for 0-2,000 feet in
altitude and 15 pounds above that. Process all pints of corn in the pressure
canner for 55 minutes. (Note: you need to know what altitude your location
is for proper canning. You can ask your
local county Extension office or the altitude is usually given when you choose
a location on a National Weather Service forecast map.)
Follow your canners directions for cooling time, and then
remove jars, label and store.
Freezing
corn
You must blanch (cook) the husked ears for 3 minutes in
boiling water before freezing whole kernels. Remove from heat, cut corn off the cobs,
package in freezer containers or bags and then freeze.
Whole ears of corn can be frozen at home but the flavor
of the cob often comes through. Boil
husked corn ears for 7-11 minutes, depending on the diameter of the cob. Make it 7 minutes for 1 ¼ inch diameter, up
to 11 minutes for 1 ¾ inch diameter. Remove with tongs and plunge ears into a
bowl of ice water as quickly as possible.
The quicker the corn cools the less likely the cob flavor will come
through. Add ice to the water
frequently. Pat the corn dry before
packaging to freeze.
Corn
and pepper relish
Another way to preserve fresh corn is to pickle it as
in this recipe. This recipe only needs a
water bath canner as it contains acid in the vinegar. You’ll need the canner
plus 5 clean pint jars and lids. The
jars should be kept totally covered in a pot of simmering water until ready to
be filled.
Ingredients
8 cups of corn kernels cut from the cob
3 cups vinegar
¾ cup packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 cup of finely chopped sweet peppers, use green and
red for pretty relish
3 cups of finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons canning salt
1 tablespoon celery seed
¼ teaspoon red pepper
Put a couple tablespoons of the vinegar in a bowl and
add the mustard, stir to make a smooth paste.
Put the rest of the vinegar, sugar and mustard paste in a large
pot. Bring to a boil, stirring to
dissolve the sugar and mustard.
Add the corn, peppers, onions and spices to the pot. Cover the pot and boil gently for 15
minutes. The mixture will be thickened.
Remove pint jars from the hot water and drain. Ladle the hot corn mixture into them to ½
inch from the jar rim.
Swirl a knife or stick through jars to remove
bubbles. Wipe the rims and add the
lids.
Place jars in water bath canner and process for 15
minutes for 0-1,000 feet in altitude, 20 minutes for 1001-6,000 feet, 25 minutes for altitudes above that.
Cool, label jars and store.
Blackberry cobbler here I come
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
© Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used
without permission.
And
So On….
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