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Tuesday, April 18, 2017

April 18, 2017, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter


Hi Gardeners

It’s a beautiful spring day here, temps in the low 60’s and sunny.  Last week we had some really warm weather – 82 degrees on Saturday and things are popping into bloom like crazy.  The crocus are just about gone, the daffodils are in full bloom.  Hyacinths, windflowers and corydalis are in bloom.  Bloodroot and some early tulips are just starting to bloom.  My apricot is in bloom and the apple tree buds are showing pink. The dandelions, purple deadnettle and violets are blooming.

My lettuce is coming up.  The rhubarb is just about ready to harvest. I picked a pocket full of chickweed and dandelion greens for my house birds, they love early spring greens.   I spent the weekend planting more seeds in pots and moving sprouted seeds into my little greenhouse.  I potted up the dahlia tubers from last year to get them growing and I noticed my begonia pots are beginning to sprout too.

I bought pansies this week, I love pansies and it’s hard for me to choose which ones I want.  I ended up making myself limit my choices to one flat.  I now have several pots of pansies around for color and I made some pansy planters up for Easter gifts too.  I found one petunia at the greenhouse I had to buy, even though it’s too early to plant it outside.  It’s the petunia ‘Night Skies’ which is deep blue sprinkled with white - like stars on a clear night.  It’s in my greenhouse now.

Many trees are blooming now and there’s lots of pollen in the air. Some trees are leafing out, there’s a thin haze of green and yellow when I look toward my woods.  My husband did our first lawn mowing of the back yard yesterday.  Mosquitoes are out too; see the article below for more mosquito information.  I still haven’t seen the hummingbirds or orioles but I expect them any day.

I am not seeing any bees.  That’s a bit worrisome.  I have seen some active hornets.  Did you know that bees feed on the same flowers for the whole day based on the one  they started on first in the morning?  I think maybe as the fruit trees start to bloom there will be more bees around.  I’ve seen cabbage butterflies out and about and the small brown skippers. 

Corydalis


Taking care of Easter gift plants

Did you get a plant for Easter?  Chances are good it was an Easter lily, the most popular gift plant at Easter but other favorites at this time of year include spring flowering bulbs like hyacinths, hydrangeas, miniature roses,  florist's cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum cultivars), florist's gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa) and florist's cineraria (Senecio x hybridus, formerly Pericallis), and azaleas.

If you are a gardener you probably want to know how to keep these gifts alive beyond the holiday.  The good news is that with the right care some of these plants can last a long time.

The Easter lily

Easter Lilies are the fourth largest potted plant in terms of wholesale value each year. Michigan is the number one producer of potted Easter Lilies in the United States. About 55 Michigan growers produce all the Easter lilies sold here, worth about two million dollars each year.  (The bulbs are produced on the west coast.) And it isn't an easy job to have the lilies in bloom for Easter. Easter comes at different times each year. It's always the first Sunday after the spring equinox, which can be anywhere from March 22 to late April.

A small area on the border of Oregon and California, within sight of the Pacific Ocean, is where virtually all of the Easter lily bulbs that are used for potted flowers are now produced. The bulbs are usually sent to other areas to be potted up and forced into bloom.

It can take three to four years for a bulblet, (baby bulb) to produce flowers. Each fall the Pacific coast growers dig up their fields and sort the bulbs by size. Mature lilies produce new bulblets every summer, which are loosely connected to the "mother" bulb. These new bulbs are removed and replanted as are the bulbs in the field that are not large enough to bloom. The blooming size bulbs are cleaned and packaged for shipment to nurseries where they will be forced to bloom in time for Easter. The bulbs must be kept chilled for at least six weeks or until the grower is ready to start the forcing process.

Lilies are only in bloom for a period of one to two weeks so growers have to be quite knowledgeable about manipulating the bloom time. It's done by regulating the length of day and night and the temperatures the plants are growing in. Growers actually prefer the early Easters, because as the days get longer and the temperatures higher, it's harder to keep the plants from blooming too early. Growers count the number of leaves on a plant and note how they are expanding to get an idea when the plants will bloom. If it looks like the plants are progressing too fast, the temperature and lights have to be adjusted. Once the flower buds are visible, the plant will be in bloom in about 30 days.

Of course Easter isn't the normal time that these lilies should bloom. In my zone 5 garden the Longiflorum lily blooms in late June or early July. If you receive an Easter lily as a gift and want to try to move it to your garden in the spring, here’s what to do. When the blooms open, carefully cut off the stamens, the little dangling things covered in yellow pollen. This prolongs the bloom and keeps the pollen from staining the flower and your clothes. As each flower dies cut it off.
While blooming, the plant should be in bright light but not direct sunlight. Blooms will last longer if the plant is kept at cool temperatures, 60-65 degrees would be nice. Keep the plant watered but don't over water. You may have to remove decorative foil pot covers so it can drain. Keep the plant out of cold drafts and away from heat ducts, which will dry it out. When the plant is done blooming, move it to a sunny window. Do not remove any leaves unless they yellow and die. The leaves are producing food so the plant can produce new buds for next year.

As soon as the danger of frost has passed you can remove the lily from the pot and plant it in the garden. Choose a spot in full sun with good drainage. It is natural for the plant to die back now, but keep it watered and new shoots may come up.

The lily will probably not bloom again this year, but should bloom next summer if it survives winter. The Easter, or Madonna lily as it is sometimes called, is marginally hardy in zone 5, and does well in zones 6 -7. It should be mulched well to survive winter. If you don't have luck saving your gift plants you can buy bulbs that haven't been forced to bloom, and those may do better for you.

Spring flowering bulbs

Pots of hyacinths, tulips and daffodils are also popular gifts at Easter.  When Easter is in late April these plants are often in bloom outside too.  Bulbs forced into bloom in pots may not survive as well as those bulbs purchased and planted in the fall but it’s worth the try for many gardeners.  You will need to be able to plant them outside; they won’t bloom again if kept in a pot inside.

Set the blooming pot of bulbs in a cooler spot inside, in good light but not direct sunlight.  Be careful not to over water, remove any foil pot covers so the pot can drain. As flowers die cut them off.  Move the pots outside as soon as you are through enjoying them.

As soon as the blooms have died or even while they are still blooming the plants should be moved to the garden.  As long as there’s no snow on the ground and you can dig a hole for the bulbs they are good to go.  They will survive light frosts, but any flowers left may wilt if there’s a freeze. 

Find a sunny spot and remove the bulbs from the pot. Unless the leaves are completely yellow and dried up don’t remove them.  You can separate the bulbs, there are generally several in the pot, or leave the root ball intact.  Dig a hole so that bulbs are at the same soil level they were in the pot, don’t bury the leaf stems.  This may not be the depth the bulbs should be planted if you were planting them in the fall but don’t worry.  Plant the bulbs. Don’t fertilize at this time.

Let any leaves on the bulbs yellow and die naturally before removing them.  Spring blooming bulbs like their dormant time to be on the dry side so there is no need to water bulbs after the leaves die.  Fertilize with a general purpose slow release fertilizer next spring when the bulbs start to emerge from the soil.  

Bulbs will not bloom again this year but if you are lucky you’ll get blooms next year in spring.  Some forced bulbs will not recover.  Of course for spring flowering bulbs like these to bloom your area must have a cold winter period, with temperatures below 40 degrees for about 3 months.

Hydrangeas

The hydrangeas sold in pots for Easter may not be hardy varieties for your area and pots are rarely labeled with hardiness information.  These are varieties selected for pot culture and they rarely make large plants in the garden.  However many gardeners will want to try and keep the plants alive. 

Like other gift plants keep them in a cool, bright location inside while they are blooming and don’t over water.  Remove the foil pot covers that limit drainage.  When they have finished blooming cut off the dead flowers and move them to the sunniest window you have, unless you are ready to put them outside.

Most of these hydrangeas can’t be kept as houseplants that will bloom again.  You’ll need to move them to the garden and try your luck there.  Wait until after the last frost in your area to move them outside.  Plant them in a sunny spot at the same soil level they were in the pot.  Fertilize lightly with a slow release fertilizer after planting and water if it’s dry until the plants are well established.   You’ll know the plants are getting established if new growth begins.  The plants will not bloom again this year.

Mulch these hydrangeas heavily the first winter.  If you are lucky they will return the next spring.  They may not bloom the second year either as they adjust to outside conditions.  When they do bloom they may not be the same color the Easter blooms were, depending on the variety and your soil pH.

Azalea

Azaleas

Azaleas sold at Easter are like the hydrangeas, varieties developed for pot culture.  However these plants can be kept inside as houseplants if you like and may bloom again inside the next year.  Generally they won’t have as many flowers the next year.  If you are in zone 7 or higher you can also plant them in the garden.  In lower zones they may or may not be hardy outside.

Like most gift plants remove the foil pot covers from the azaleas and make sure the pot drains well.   Keep in a cool location while blooming.  If you are going to keep the plant inside move it to the sunniest place you have, preferably a south facing window when it’s done blooming.  Trim off dead flowers. 

Inside let azalea pots dry just a little between watering unless in bloom, when they should be kept moist.  Fertilize with a water soluble acidic fertilizer once a month February through October.  You may want to transplant the azalea into a larger pot in the fall if it has grown well over the summer.  If you can arrange it the azalea will do better with an outside vacation during the frost free months.  For this the plant should be in a lightly shaded or semi-shaded place.  Check pots outside frequently and don’t let them dry out too much.  Bring inside before a hard frost.

With enough sunlight and adequate fertilizer the indoor azalea may bloom again the next spring, although it may not be at Easter time.  I have known people to have these azalea plants bloom for them for many years.  Cool winter nights, around 55 degrees, seem to help with re-bloom.  Keep plants moist and humidity high while plants are in bud and bloom.

Those in zone 7 and higher can plant the Easter azalea outside after the last frost. They generally prefer lightly shaded or semi-shaded locations, with humus rich soil.  Fertilize with an acidic fertilizer if your soil isn’t naturally acidic.   Keep the plant well-watered during the first year.  The florist azaleas may not perform as well outside as varieties bred for the garden but some people have good luck with them. 

Miniature roses

Miniature roses are often sold in the spring as blooming plants.  Once again there are many varieties but many of the small roses are quite hardy and can be planted outside.  They can also be kept as houseplants although that isn’t as easy as growing them outside.

While blooming keep them in a bright but cool location inside.  Trim off flowers as they fade.  Remove foil pot covers so the pot drains well and keep plants evenly moist while blooming.  Move them to the sunniest spot you have, preferably a south window when you are through using them as a decoration.

Miniature roses can be successfully kept as houseplants but care can be a bit tricky.  They need supplemental light in most homes during the winter.  They like high humidity and temperatures between 55 at night and about 70 degrees F. in the day.  From August through October they should get a water soluble fertilizer once a month, from February through August use a fertilizer for blooming plants every other week to encourage bloom.

Let soil dry slightly between watering.  Mist when humidity is low.  Rose plants inside are prone to spider mites, aphids and other pests.  Check the plants frequently and treat them as soon as pests are noticed.   Insecticidal soap sprays or a systemic rose care product can be used.

If you have the right place the miniature rose can be planted outside.  Large containers, rock gardens or places where they won’t be lost among larger plants should be considered.  They should be planted in full sun and treated like larger roses.  Prune to shape, fertilize and water regularly.  Depending on the variety you may get flowers most of the summer. 

Mulch the roses heavily for winter in colder zones.  Most of these roses are hardy and many are grown on their own roots.  They will often return for many years. 

I treat my mini roses somewhere between houseplant and outdoor plants.  I keep them in pots and leave them outside until the fall when leaves have dropped and the plant is dormant.  I then bring them inside to an unheated area which stays cool but above freezing.  They stay dormant until the sun starts heating the room up in February, and then begin growth again.  I put them back outside in late April here, when light frosts may still happen but no hard freezes.  They bloom freely and grow well with this treatment.

Cyclamen (florists)

These cyclamen’s are not the hardy ones for the garden and for most people it’s probably better to discard them after they finish their blooming period, which can be a long period if they have the right conditions.  The plants need a dormant period to re-bloom and be healthy and that is hard to get right on these types of cyclamen.

While blooming they need bright light, temperatures between 55-70 degrees F. and to be kept moist.  Shortly after blooming has stopped the leaves will begin to die back.  Stop watering the pot and take it to a dim place, and turn it on its side.  After the leaves have dried up put the whole pot away somewhere until early fall.  It doesn’t need to be cold, just in a dimly lit dry spot. 

Put a reminder on your calendar to take the pot out of storage in early fall – around September.  Repot the tuber in fresh potting soil, water it well and put it in bright light.  When you see leaves emerge begin fertilizing with a flowering plant fertilizer every other week.  If you are successful you’ll get blooms again in spring- around March. 

Gloxina
If you can keep African Violets alive you can probably keep a gift gloxinia alive as a houseplant.  Like the cyclamen however these do need a dormant period.  They are a bit temperamental but plant lovers do manage to keep them going.

While blooming the gloxinia needs bright light and a minimum of 60 degrees F.  Water with warm water and keep it off the leaves.  Keep the soil moist while in bloom. Keep humidity high.  It will bloom for several weeks.

After blooming has finished, reduce watering allowing the plant to dry out a little between watering.  The leaves will begin to yellow and die.  When leaves have died, move the plant to a dry, dim spot, 50 degree temperatures would be ideal.  In early fall, repot the tuber in fresh soil, begin regular watering and fertilize every other week with blooming plant fertilizer. The plant should be in bright light, east windows are ideal. South windows may burn the foliage.  If you are lucky you’ll get blooms in spring.

These plants generally don’t do well outside and summer is their dormancy period.

Cineraria

Cineraria have masses of daisy like flowers and will bloom for a month or more in the right conditions.  Unfortunately these plants can’t be kept for another year as they are annuals.  When the plant starts dying it’s time for the compost heap.

To keep them blooming for the longest period they need to be kept in cool temperatures, 45-60 degrees F is optimal and not likely in many homes.  Therefore bloom period is generally shorter. Keep them in bright light but out of direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist, but make sure it drains well, waterlogged plants quickly die.   Trim off flowers as they fade.  Enjoy the plant while it blooms – which can be 6 weeks- and then let it go.

Mosquito plant myths

I am once again seeing articles being posted that tell you there are plants that you can set on your patio or porch or plant in your garden that will repel mosquitoes.  This is the time of year when mosquitoes are bothersome and it’s tempting to think there’s some simple solution to keeping them away.

But here’s the plain truth. There are no plants that you can just sit on the patio or plant around the house that will effectively repel mosquitoes, despite all those advertising claims.  No objective studies have ever found a plant that will do that. NONE! No plant repels mosquitoes just by sitting near you. 

The citrosa plant (Pelargonium citrosum ‘van Leenii’) sometimes advertised as Mosquito plant, Mosquito Shoo, and other assorted names, is useless as a mosquito repellant.  Thousands of these plants are sold each year, even though they don’t work and don’t even have a pretty flower or form to redeem them. This plant is actually a scented leaved geranium and it does have a very small amount of citronellol (a repellant) in it just as many other plants do. But you would have to crush the leaves and rub them on your skin for it to have even the most fleeting effect.

Common Lemon Balm has 3-4 hundred percent more citronellol than Citrosa, but don’t expect it to repel mosquitoes.  Besides Lemon Balm and Citrosa, these plants are often claimed to be mosquito repellants; lemon grass, lavender, catnip, rosemary, basil, marigolds, geraniums, garlic, pennyroyal and assorted other things, generally anything that has a strong smell.  In fact if you do an on line search for plants that repel mosquitoes you’ll get lists of anywhere from 6- 31 plants.  But not one of these will repel mosquitoes simply by having a plant near you.
Lemon balm

What does work

Some plants do have chemical ingredients that when extracted and applied to the skin do have mosquito repellant properties.  However, homemade concoctions of oils and plant extracts are sometimes more dangerous than commercial products and many are ineffective as well.  A chemical found in mints for example, is effective as an insect repellant but some studies have found kidney damage and genetic damage when it is used.  Many plant extracts will cause severe skin irritation when applied to the skin and since these products may be absorbed into the body great caution should be used when mixing homemade remedies and applying them to the skin.

Plant sources for mosquito repellants are being tested and studied for safety and effectiveness by many researchers.  Most of these studies are able to isolate beneficial compounds from those with side effects, which home producers of herbal repellants aren’t able to do.  They then undergo rigorous testing to determine safety.  For example C10, a chemical found in celery seed has shown promise as a mosquito repellant.  But you can’t use celery seed in a home remedy in any way that’s been proven effective.

Citronellol is found in several plants and has some repellant properties.  The problem with using citronellol as an insect repellent is that it must be used in a very strong concentration and the effect wears off quickly.  Citronellol is only effective if applied to the skin.  That causes another problem, many people are allergic to strong concentrations or their skin becomes irritated. Ctironellol is absorbed through the skin and some studies are linking exposure to the chemical to liver damage and cancer.

Commercially made natural products with oil of lemon eucalyptus (OLE) or para-menthane-diol (PMD) such as Repel are fairly effective and relatively safe.  Bite Blocker, a commercial preparation containing glycerin, lecithin, vanillin, oils of coconut, geranium, and 2% soybean oil can, according to CDC studies, provide protection similar to a low dose of DEET for several hours.

To keep from getting bitten the CDC suggests using these products on your body and clothing; products with DEET including Off!, Cutter, Sawyer, and Ultrathon brands.  Deet is the most studied insecticide in the world and has been used for over 40 years.  It is a synthetic chemical product but if label directions are followed it is extremely safe. 

Some other recommended mosquito repellants are products with Picaridin, also known as KBR 3023, such as Bayrepel, and Icaridin, Cutter Advanced, Skin So Soft Bug Guard Plus. Products with IR3535 such as Skin So Soft Bug Guard Plus, (another formula), Expedition, and SkinSmart are also good. 

Interestingly one research project found that using Victoria’s Secret Bombshell perfume repelled mosquitoes.  The ingredients are secret, so we don’t know what causes the effect.  However you would have to apply it all over your exposed skin and it’s expensive.

Candles and other devices

Even burning the plants in a candle or as incense has little effect.  Most studies find that burning a plain candle is just as effective as burning a citronella one.  Most citronella products you buy at the store are so diluted that they contain almost no active ingredient.  It is a waste of money to buy citronella oil or candles to burn unless you just like the smell.  No other products you burn to make smoke are any more effective.

Other things that do not work to control mosquitoes are ultrasonic devices and light traps.  Some traps using carbon dioxide and pheromones show promise but are expensive and each trap appeals to different species of the hundreds of mosquito species in the US.  They haven’t been very effective on many species of mosquitoes that are most likely to carry diseases.

Because preventing mosquito bites is so important and a matter of public health I would like to see ads and articles claiming there are plants you can sit on your porch or deck or plant in the garden that repel mosquitoes be made illegal unless they can provide scientific, documented proof of the claim.  Be an educated and informed gardener and don’t fall for these mosquito plant myths.  Be a careful and safe gardener and wear repellant to prevent mosquito bites. 

More information, references

Growing the Trout lily in home gardens

The beautiful Trout Lily, Erythronium americanum, is found in dappled sunlight in moist woodlands and throughout the north eastern states in the early spring.  (The USDA plant database does not list them as growing in Michigan, although the photo used here is from a wild stand found not far from my home.  I have seen them in several other locations too.)   Trout lilies are close relatives of the Dogtooth Violet, which is very similar except the Trout Lily has a yellow flower and the Dogtooth Violet flower is white. 

 
Trout lily
The Trout lily is named for its leaves.  Some fanciful person thought the leaves looked like the coloring of a trout.  The blade-shaped leaves are silvery green on top, with mottling of purple and brown.  Leaves may be held pointed upwards or spread out along the ground.  The Trout Lily plant consists of only a few leaves, usually just two, which can persist through much of the summer in the forest undergrowth.  Plants grow to about a foot high in good locations.

Trout Lilies have a single tiny 3/4- 1 inch nodding yellow flower on a leafless stalk rising a few inches above the leaves in early spring.  The flowers are like tiny tiger lily flowers, with the petals-tepals swept backward and the flower facing downward.  The backside of the petals is reddish.  Some flowers are speckled with orange or brown near the center.  The flowers close at night and are pollinated by ants.

Garden culture

Trout lilies make good plants for shaded or woodland gardens.  You can find sources to purchase Trout lilies and they should always be purchased rather than collected from the wild.  Trout lilies arise from a small corm, a bulb-like structure.  New corms grow from seeds or as off shoots from older corms.  It can take 6-7 years for a corm to mature enough to produce a flower shoot when grown from seed, slightly less time to blooming from small corms.  

When you are purchasing Trout lily corms try to buy from companies that list the age of the corm.  Pink and lavender flowered non- native species of Erythronium are often listed for sale more frequently than the native species.  The corms should be planted as soon as you receive them, as they deteriorate rapidly. 

Plant Trout lilies in a shaded location, preferably under the shade of deciduous trees where they will get some sunlight as they emerge in the spring.  They like a rich, organic soil so add compost before planting.  Plant the corms 4-5 inches deep.   Keep them moist, especially in spring.  Leaves may disappear in the heat of the summer, so mark the location so you won’t overplant on top of them.  Mulching with shredded leaves is an excellent soil conditioner for Trout lilies. Trout lilies in a good location will form a slow spreading groundcover.  Large clumps can be gently divided a few weeks after blooming with divisions immediately replanted.

Trout lily seeds can be collected about 6 weeks after the flower has faded.  The pod is oval shaped and light green to tan.  The pod should be starting to split when collected for seed. You must plant the seeds immediately in a moist, humus rich potting mix as they do not store well.  They will not germinate until next spring as they need a period of cold stratification.  The seedlings look almost grass like when they appear and will take several years to bloom.

Trout lilies are listed as both edible and medicinal.  Both leaves and corms are said to be edible although no one should be harvesting them for food, as they are becoming scarce.  Besides the medicinal qualities attributed to the Trout lily are said to be emetic- which means they make you throw up.  So there are two good reasons not to eat them. 

Trout lilies, like many woodland wildflowers, suffer greatly from deer browsing in our deer devastated woodlands.  Obviously deer don’t get sick from eating them.  They are more likely now to be found on wooded roadside ditches where deer don’t stop to graze.  Trout lilies are a protected plant and should not be picked or removed from their natural homes if you do come across them.

If they are left alone Trout lilies are long lived and colonies can be as old as the deciduous trees sheltering them.  The flower show is short-lived however and requires a walk in the woods or garden in the very early spring to enjoy it.  Good companions in the home garden are cyclamen, hellebores, trillium, bloodroot, toad lilies, pulmonaria, violets and violas.

Redneck gardening tips with pop and water bottles

Gardeners may want to raid their redneck savings account (those of you in states with bottle deposits) and use some of those plastic pop and water bottles in the garden.  Here are some tips for using them.

Cover plants to keep them warm with plastic 2 liter bottles.  Cut the bottom off, remove the cap and place over a plant.  The open top helps keep the plant from getting too hot, but in sunny warm weather you may need to remove them until evening so the plants don’t cook.

Use the bottoms you cut off as saucers for potted plants.

You can also fill 2 liter bottles with water and surround a plant with them to aid growth in cool weather.  The water heats up in the sun and heat is released at night.  You can further protect plants from the cold by throwing something over the bottle circle at night.  To keep the plants from falling over on a plant, wind a piece of twine around the bottle tops, binding the group together.  If you dye the water in the bottles red with food color the red light reflected helps tomato plants become stocky and vigorous.

To make trickle waterers for plants melt tiny holes in the bottom of bottles.  Use a small nail or ice pick heated in a flame to quickly melt holes in plastic or you can use a drill.  Holes need to be tiny, about 3-4 to a bottle.  Fill the bottle with water, screw on the top tightly and set near the plant you need to keep watered.

Cut around bottles with scissors or a knife to make round plastic cut worm collars.  Small water bottles are good for this. Make each round piece about 2 inches wide.  Place them over small plants to keep cutworms from cutting the stems off.

Cut a bottle half way around, spread it and insert a ball of twine or string.  Thread one end out the top of the bottle.  Tape the cut shut and you have a twine dispenser.

If you have a large pot that’s too heavy to move when filled with soil use plastic bottles in the bottom of the pot to take up space.  Leaving the tops on makes the bottles less likely to be crushed and keeps soil levels from sagging.

Calico Casserole

Here’s a quick spring meal that uses some of those abundant hard boiled eggs we have around Easter.

Ingredients
8 oz. dry spaghetti, broken into 3 inch pieces
10 oz. package of frozen mixed vegetables
6 tablespoons butter
1 ½ cups bread crumbs
4 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
3 cups milk or cream
1 tablespoon mustard
3 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
½ cup finely diced ham ( or cooked crumbled bacon)
5 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced
Directions

Place spaghetti in boiling water and cook until soft.  Drain.

Defrost frozen vegetables in microwave or in a little heated water until slightly softened and warm.

Melt butter over low heat.  Remove 2 tablespoons of the butter to a bowl.

Toss the bread crumbs with the butter in the bowl and set aside.

In the pan with the rest of the butter add the flour and salt.  Cook stirring constantly until it bubbles.   Then stir in milk and mustard. 

Cook and stir the milk mixture until it thickens and is bubbling.  Add 2 cups of the cheese and stir until it’s melted.  Turn off heat.

Add the cooked spaghetti to the cheese sauce and stir until well blended.  Spread half of the spaghetti mixture into a 2 quart shallow baking dish.

Arrange egg slices on top of the spaghetti and sprinkle with diced ham.  Cover with the rest of the spaghetti mix.

Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top, then sprinkle on buttered bread crumbs.

Bake at 350 degrees F. for about 30 minutes until bubbly and lightly browned on top.  Serve warm.


It’s spring when you hear the music of mowers and smell the cut grass.

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

© Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.

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