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Tuesday, September 20, 2016

September 20, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

September 20, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter 
 © Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.




Hi Gardeners

This week on Thursday we have the official start of fall, the autumn equinox.  It seems like summer flew by and with temperatures 10 degrees above normal it’s hard to get into fall mode.  Through the rest of the month it does not look like we will have a frost here in Lower Michigan, although knowing Michigan that could change.  The average first frost for most of us occurs in early October.  Some readers may have already had that first frost. It’s time to get busy.

The sun is going down earlier and earlier, as I’m sure you have noticed.  One of the last places it hits in the evening here is the top of our propane tank.  On cool nights the cats all climb up and sit on top of the tank.  I was sitting watching them one night and noticed them watching something behind them on some plants.  I got closer and saw that the grasshoppers were also climbing up to bask in the last bit of sun on the plants behind the tank.  All creatures love that sun.

I will be repotting houseplants this week.  Some will be brought inside so I don’t have to do everything in one day when a frost is announced.  I am ordering a large LED grow light that will give me about 6 more feet of good light for my plant collection.  The price of those lights is very affordable now if you do comparison shopping on line.  And they are cheap to operate, much cheaper than the old light bulbs.

I missed the blooming of my first moonflower last week.  I saw the bud but forgot to come back out after dark to see it open.  I have another bud about to open and I hope I remember to go out tonight and see it open.  You can actually see moonflowers open up if you time it right. They have a wonderful scent but they only last the one night.

The last flowers to bloom every year in my garden are now blooming, the Maximillian sunflowers, toad flowers and the fall blooming bulb colchicum.  Maximillian sunflowers are a native plant and perennial.  Other things are still in bloom, woodland nicotiana, mums and asters, sweet autumn clematis, morning glories, the re-blooming iris, phlox, landscape roses, buddleia, even some hostas.

The veggie garden is about done; although I am still getting some tomatoes and down under the gourd vines I know there are some onions left.  Cucumbers are still producing too, which is unusual.  The gourds have taken over.  I will literally have hundreds of them.  We also have a few nice sized pumpkins. 

Last night at the Lapeer Horticulture Society meeting I listened as people talked about what did well and didn’t do well in their gardens this year.  It’s amazing how different our gardens perform in the same year being less than 100 miles, probably less than 50 miles apart.  My melons and sweet corn did not perform well and our apples and grapes are small.  Yet other people reported big melons and good corn and luscious apples.  My cucumbers and tomatoes did well; others had bad luck with them.  Even those who grow just flowers reported a good year with this and a bad year with that.   Every year is different.
Grasshopper in the sun.

One thing I noticed is that gardeners are all about hope and optimism. We all hope and are optimistic that our gardens will do well next year. Even though we know winter is coming we are all looking forward to what we will be planting next year, we’ve learned from our mistakes, accepted natures blows, and are eager to try again.  Gardeners are great people.


50 Shades of Gray (in botanical Latin)

I was reviewing some botanical Latin the other day and came upon something interesting.  Did you know that there are at least 50 shades (names) of gray in botanical Latin? And we are not talking methods of gardening or ethical implications of plants but actual names for shades of gray.

One of the reasons gardeners should learn a little about botanical Latin is that Latin or scientific names are very descriptive.  They can often give you hints of what the plant species looks like.  When I say very descriptive I mean minutely descriptive.  Latin color names often describe shades and tints and you’ll notice in the list of words describing gray (or grey) color in plants that some names refer to the color of animals like the dove or elephant to describe the shade of gray. 

Some of us may never have seen a wood louse so we would have a hard time picturing in our mind the shade of gray they are. But most of us have seen the color of the iris of our eyes or the gray of smoke or lead.  By the way you’ll notice I spelled the English word for this color two ways, gray and grey.  Both are correct.  Isn’t gray fascinating?
Lambs ear, a gray or hoary plant.

Keep in mind that the color of the plant may not have figured into the naming of it.  Some plants are named for who found them, where they grow, the shape they grow, what qualities or uses they have or for other things. Color names may have suffixes or prefixes added to them to clarify the description also. The descriptive name for a color would usually be in the second half of the species name. Gray may not be common in flowers, but leaves and stems may have shades of gray.  Scientific (Latin) names for animals also use these color terms.

Downy skullcap - Scutellaria incana,   Dusty Miller-Senecio cineraria, Dusty Miller (2 common names for different plants) -Centaurea cineraria, Black Taro Alocasia plumbea, stock- Matthiola incana, Hosta nigrescens , Pink corydalis -Capnoides sempervirens are some examples of plants with the Latin for gray in their names.

Here are the 50 shades of gray.
1.   Cinereus ash gray
2.   Cineraceus lighter  ash gray
3.   cinerascens becoming ash gray
4.   griseus, pearl gray
5.   griseolus, med tint pearl gray
6.   grisellus pearl gray lighter
7.   lixivius as above with touch of brown
8.   caesius blue grey of the iris of the eye
9.   caesiellus lighter blue grey
10.                liveus dull shade of iris gray
11.                livius-dusky shade of iris gray
12.                lividus- darker shade of iris- blue gray
13.                lividulus   duller shade of iris grey
14.                schistaceus slate gray close to blue
15.                plumbeus lead color- metallic
16.                molybdus lead gray tint
17.                molybdinus lead gray tint
18.                fumosus, smoky gray
19.                fumeus, smokey gray tint
20.                fuligineus, fuliginosus, smokey gray tint
21.                argenteus - silvery
22.                murinus – mouse color gray with a hint of red
23.                canus, hoary
24.                incanus, incana- hoary white hairs over green
25.                canescens rather hoary
26.                spodochrous grey in general
27.                columbianus dove gray
28.                palumbinus  dove grey tint
29.                ardesiacus dark slate
30.                schistaceus dark slate
31.                tylicolor  wood louse gray
32.                oniscus lighter wood louse gray
33.                elephines elephant gray
34.                elpehinus elephant gray tint
35.                chalybeus steel gray
36.                subustulatus  steel gray
37.                murinus mouse color
38.                myochrous mouse color tint
39.                atroschistaceus very dark gray
40.                capnodes sooty gray
41.                capnoides sooty gray tint
42.                subfuscus sooty
43.                subaquilus sooty
44.                elbidus sad gray
45.                nigrescens gray turning black
46.                nigricans gray turning black
47.                tephreus becoming gray
48.                tephrus becoming smoky gray
49.                cretaceo-pallidus becoming light gray
50.                leucophaeus white gray



Why you need houseplants

In the seventies having your house full of plants was the “in” thing. In the garden shop I managed we had 2 long “islands” full of houseplants and two long aisles devoted to plant supplies.  There was a whole section for macramé holders.  I remember one fun announcement we were making over the PA that houseplants would make you happy and gay.  Try that now! Many new types of houseplants were being introduced to feed the public interest.  While the interest in house plants has waned a little, there is still good reason to have plants in the home and office.

Several studies have proven that people prefer rooms with plants over rooms without them, that they feel calmer and happier.  Studies of hospital patients have found that patients report less pain and are able to go home sooner if the room has plants.  Malls, hotels, casinos, medical buildings, office buildings and other large buildings usually feature some kind of indoor landscaping, because of the stress reducing and mood lifting qualities plants have, as well as their beauty.

Our indoor air is filled with pollutants.   Gasses volatize off wood products, paint, inks, plastics and other things and fill the air with toxins like formaldehyde, benzene and trichloroethylene.  Smoking, cooking and burning candles release toxins and tiny particles into the air that irritate the lungs.   Newer, airtight homes are very prone to “sick air” from all the toxins swirling around inside with few drafts to provide clean, fresh air.

Plants pull that polluted air through them, using carbon dioxide to make food, neutralizing toxic chemicals and releasing pure oxygen into the air.  Microscopic particles floating in the air are stored in the plants vacuoles, tiny water filled sacs in plant cells, until the plant dies, removing them from the air you breathe.  The soil in the plants pot also absorbs and holds toxic chemicals in the air.

NASA thinks so highly of the plants ability to clean the air that they placed plants on space missions.  The common spider plant was found to be an excellent air cleaner.   Other good air cleaners are chrysanthemums, peace lilies, philodendron, pothos, dracaena and snake plants.   All houseplants though, will help clean the air. 

There is a houseplant to suit every room condition.  Even offices without windows can have plants if they are well lit.  While just the green foliage of plants is soothing there are houseplants that light up your world with flowers.  Plants make excellent hobbies for people confined inside during the long winters.

While retail outlets for houseplants are not as numerous as they were in the seventies houseplants are still sold in many garden stores and nurseries, often during the winter when the perennials and annuals are gone.  And of course there are all those on line stores and catalogs to choose from. Houseplants come in all price ranges but even some large potted plants can be purchased for less than $20.  Beautiful pots and other accessories turn plants into decorating assets.

All plants will require some care but most only require a few minutes of time each week. Choosing the right houseplant for your light and temperature conditions will help assure the plant will grow and thrive for you with minimal care. Most will only require water, fertilizing a few times a year and occasional dusting of the leaves.

Even if you keep your home cool to save energy - 50 -55 degrees there are houseplants that will thrive.  In fact cool air holds more moisture, which most plants like.  Some plants that like cooler temperatures are English Ivy, geraniums, spider plants, Cuphea, Yucca, Cast Iron plant, Sansevieria ( snake plant), parlor palm, Norfolk Island pine, and Tradescantia.  Some cacti will thrive in cool areas in the winter months.

Houseplants are making a comeback, with many innovations such as low cost grow lights to make caring for them easier. There’s no good excuse not to make your house a home or your office more appealing with houseplants.  People and plants belong together, inside and out.  Whether it’s an elaborate indoor landscape or a few pots on the windowsill, plants in the home will make you healthier and happier.


This week’s weed- Stinging Nettles

Urtica dioica or stinging nettles is one of those interesting plants that is now found throughout the world, where it has probably been carried by humans.  The plant, or a species of it, was thought to be native in western North America, but some botanists now believe it was carried here from its true native origin of northern Europe and Asia by the first people to cross the land bridge from Siberia to what is now known as Alaska.  The plant was used for its fiber, and clothing and hunting nets were made from this fiber in early human history.  It also had many herbal uses and was eaten so the likelihood that it came here with the first people is good.


While gardeners and hikers aren’t thrilled to encounter the plant which leaves a nasty, painful rash when brushed against or pulled, herbalists sing the praises of stinging nettles.  This is another plant hailed as a miracle cure for whatever ails you.  Studies have shown some medicinal value for the plant.


Description


Stinging nettles is a tall (3-7 feet) sturdy perennial plant.  The leaves are dark green, 1-6 inches long and heavily toothed on the edges.  Leaves are arranged oppositely on the tough, squared stem.  The plants usually aren’t branched. 


Stinging nettles
The surface of the leaves and stems are covered with hairs, some of which are larger and contain the poison that causes such misery.  These hairs, called trichomes, are hollow, with a bulbous base that contains acetylcholine, histamine, 5-HT (serotonin), moroidin, leukotrienes, and possibly formic acid. They act like a needle to inject the poison as a defense. These hairs are meant to protect the plant from animals eating them and they do a good job.  They also break off in human skin causing welts, stinging and itching.  When the plants are dried or cooked the poison disappears.


Stinging nettle flowers come in male and female versions on the same plant. They are small clusters of greenish white and appear in the leaf axils throughout the summer.  The female flowers produce tiny egg shaped seeds  of tan to brown.


Stinging nettles has both rhizomes and stolons as a root system.  These are a bright yellow color which can help identify the plant.  Stinging nettles reproduces both by seed and spreading rhizomes and it can spread rapidly in a site it likes.  The plants can be found nearly everywhere but they prefer sunny sites with high fertility.  Farmers believe soil that grows good nettles is excellent crop soil.


Edible uses


Stinging nettles have been used as food by many cultures for thousands of years.  When cooked they lose their sting and are very nutritious, although as is the case with most of these cooked greens they must be gathered and cooked while young and tender.


I do not like cooked greens but friends tell me the taste of stinging nettles is much like spinach with a hint of cucumber.  The leaves are high in vitamins A and C, iron, potassium, manganese, riboflavin (vitamin B2), pantothenic acid, vitamin K1, tocopherols (vitamin E) lutein, xanthophyll and calcium.  Leaves also contain about 5% protein.


Stinging nettles are turned into cordials, beer, made into soup, used as pastry filling, polenta and pesto in various cultures.  Nettles are sometimes used in cheese making, especially for flavoring Gouda cheese.


While animals will not eat fresh nettles they love it when dried as hay and the sting is gone.  It is as nutritious as alfalfa.  Chickens are sometimes fed dried nettles to improve the yellow color of the egg yolk.


Fiber, dye, and other uses

Stinging nettles have been used for fiber as long as they have been used for food.  Archeology sites have turned up hunting nets and clothing made from the fiber.  Stinging nettles are being grown as a crop in Europe currently to produce a specialty fabric similar to linin. The culture of plants and manufacture of the fiber is much the same as for flax plants.  Use of pesticides is not needed for producing the plant.

Both the roots and leaves have been used as a yellow dye for thousands of years.

Gardeners should consider the use of stinging nettles as good compost material because it is high in nitrogen and other plant nutrients.  Nettles near the garden also attract many species of beneficial insects.  Just don’t allow them to grow where you’ll brush into them.


Medicinal uses

Where do we start?  Stinging nettles are used in folk medicine to cure disorders of the kidneys and urinary tract as a diuretic, for irritable bladder, to prevent bed wetting, both for diarrhea and as a laxative, acid reflux, for excess gas, nausea, colitis and Celiac disease, hemorrhoids, to kill intestinal worms, strengthening the cardiovascular system, lowering blood pressure, to lower blood sugar, for hemorrhage, nose bleeds, wounds, colds, influenza, rheumatism, gout, lupus, osteoarthritis, fibromyalgia, tendonitis, MS, ALS and sciatica, asthma, lung congestion, TB cure, allergies and hayfever, sore throat, gingivitis, rash and eczema, wart removal, cancer, for regulation of menstruation, to bring on milk production, to ease menopause symptoms, treatment of Alzheimer’s, to cure baldness and dandruff, dry oily hair and prevent aging. Whew!  You better get you some nettles!


In folk medicine stinging nettle leaves and flowers are usually dried and taken as teas, although in some cases the boiled leaves are recommended.  Some herbalists also use dried and powdered root preparations.


Medical research has found some use for stinging nettles in enlarged prostrate treatment; it alleviates symptoms but does not reduce prostrate size.  The chemicals in stinging nettles may act to regulate hormones, which is why it may also be able to help in hormonal issues of women.  Additionally the iron and other nutrient content of nettles may cure deficiencies and improve energy and health in women.


Some preliminary studies have found nettles may be useful in alleviating allergy symptoms.  Nettles seem to reduce histamine production.  Also studies have found that some people with various arthritic diseases do get some relief from oral use of nettles but although many herbalists swear by self- flagellating sore joints with nettles to produce those painful welts, which somehow make the arthritis pain better, no studies have confirmed that practice.  The nettles were given along with anti-steroidal pain relievers like aspirin.


Nettles are also being studied for diabetes treatment.  They do lower blood sugar in some cases but in other cases a rise in blood sugar occurs so experimenting at home is not recommended.  They are also being studied for lowering blood pressure, with some evidence there may be an effect.


For more medical information based on science here are some links.





Cautions

While often used for urinary tract problems mature leaves of stinging nettles can contain little grit particles called cystoliths which can cause urinary tract irritation and possibly kidney damage.


Stinging nettles should not be used in conjunction with any blood thinner medications, blood pressure medications or by people known to have low blood pressure, with diabetes medications or by people with diabetes.  Don’t take nettles if you use other diuretics or lithium. Doctors warn pregnant women should not take stinging nettles as it may cause uterine contractions and increased bleeding.  It would be wise to ask a druggist or a doctor if you take any prescription medications f you should use stinging nettles.


If handling stinging nettles leaves you in pain try using calamine lotion and/or any topical medicine for itching and pain.  The pain usually subsides in a few hours to a day.  The welts do not spread and aren’t contagious.


Preserving grapes

Michigan is home to hundreds of small vineyards producing new and exciting wines but many homeowners also have table grapes growing in their backyard.  If you don’t you can find them at the farmers market near you or you can even collect wild grapes that grow abundantly in Michigan.

Grapes can be canned or even frozen but both of these methods leave something to be desired.  The best way to preserve grapes is to make grape juice and can that or to make grape jelly.  One of the easiest jellies to make, grape jelly is a good beginner project in home food preservation. But grape jelly starts with grape juice and a bit of warning here is that you will need at least 24 hours to make grape juice correctly.

Making grape juice

To make grape juice gather or purchase grapes that are fully ripe.   Any color or kind of grapes can make grape juice. The color of the juice will be close to the color of the grapes.  For jelly most people prefer blue or purple grapes.  In the northeast concord grapes are easily grown and they make great jelly and juice.

Wash and sort the grapes, removing any molded, overripe or unripe grapes and all stems.  It takes a lot of grapes for juice but the amount will vary somewhat with the type of grapes.  For concord type grapes figure on about 3 pounds of grapes to a pint of juice.  

You will need several quart size or larger jars and a strainer or colander lined with a coffee filter or two layers of cheese cloth.  My grandmother used old t-shirts.  You can also use a cloth jelly bag or even an old thin pillowcase.  After the grapes are clean put them in a large pot and pour boiling water over them until they are just covered.  Simmer them on low heat until the skins soften and split.

When skins are soft pour the grapes and fluid through your colander, or strainer over a large bowl.  Some people suspend a jelly bag or pillowcase filled with grapes over a bowl.  You can gently squeeze the bag or press on the colander/strainer contents.  Let the grapes drain for at least 15 minutes. Warning- grape juice stains anything it contacts!

Pour the strained juice in clean jars and let it sit in the refrigerator overnight to settle.  Crystals form in fresh grape juice that can make juice or jelly gritty feeling.  It’s important to let the juice settle overnight. The next day carefully pour the juice through another filter- use a clean coffee filter or two layers of fresh cheesecloth or a clean jelly bag or pillow case.   Try to leave most of the sediment that formed on the bottom behind. 

To can the grape juice, sterilize pint, quart, or 1/2 gallon jars depending on your preference. If you want to sweeten the grape juice, add sugar just before you heat the juice. Note: don’t add sugar if you are using the juice to make jelly.  About a 1/2 cup sugar per quart is fairly sweet; adjust it to your taste.  Do not add artificial sweeteners. Bring the grape juice to boiling then pour it into the sterilized jars, leaving a 1/4 inch at the top.  Wipe rims. Add lids.  Process jars in a water bath canner for 5 minutes.  Half gallon jars should be processed for 10 minutes.

To make grape jelly

Follow the steps for juice, but don’t sweeten it. Sterilize your canning jars and keep them in hot water.  Measure out 2 cups of juice for every pint (or 2 half pints) of jelly you want to make into a large pot.  Add 1-1/2 cups of sugar per 2 cups of juice and stir well.  Make jelly in small batches for the best results.  Eight cups of juice should be the largest batch.

Use a jelly or candy thermometer in the pot and bring the juice-sugar mixture to 230 degrees F on high heat. Turn off the heat. Foam will form on the top of the juice mixture, quickly skim it off with a spoon and discard.  Pour the jelly into hot canning jars to within 1/4 inch from the rim, wipe rims and add lids.  Process jars for 5 minutes in a water bath canner.

You could also pour the jelly into freezer containers and freeze it.  It is no longer recommended that you let the jars seal without processing in the water bath canner or covering jelly with wax to seal it.

Artificially sweetened grape jelly

To 3 cups of grape juice add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, then sprinkle on 2 tablespoons of unflavored gelatin, stirring constantly.  Bring to a vigorous boil and boil 1 minute. Turn off heat.  Stir in 2 tablespoons of liquid artificial sweetener.  Pour this jelly into sterilized jars and either freeze it or keep it in the refrigerator until used.  Do not process this jelly in a canner.  Because fruit juice has some natural sugar this jelly isn’t sugar free, but it’s very low in calories.  Each tablespoon of jelly is about 12 calories.

Freezing grapes

Grapes can be washed, allowed to air dry and then frozen. Frozen grapes will be soft when thawed.  They are good in salads or jello molds. Many people just eat them frozen as a treat.

Making Raisins

Raisins are simply dried grapes, but there is a trick to making good raisins.  Turning grapes into raisins is a great way to preserve grapes, other than making jelly or wine.  Raisins are a nutritious healthy snack, especially if you make your own.  This recipe is adapted from my book –Knacks Canning, Preserving & Pickling.

Here’s what you need;
•       6 pounds grapes, any color, seedless are best, fully ripe and sweet
•       1½ cups water
•       1/2 cup white sugar
•       1/2 cup mild, light honey
•       Food dehydrator
•       Storage bags or jars to hold about 3 cups of raisins

Directions:

Wash grapes. If the grapes have seeds, cut in half and remove seeds.
Bring water to boil and stir in sugar to dissolve. Cool to barely warm, add honey, and stir well.
Soak grapes in honey mix for 5 minutes. Drain. Arrange grapes on dehydrator trays.
Follow dehydrator directions for drying. Expect 15-20 hours drying time. Store dried grapes in tightly sealed containers.

About the honey dip

Choose honey that is light colored and mild flavored for this dip. It must be real honey- the bottle should say pure honey and it should not contain corn syrup. Pasteurized honey can work but raw honey is better.  Make sure the sugar water is cool before adding honey.

All honey could be substituted for sugar but the raisins will have a strong honey flavor.

This recipe makes about 2 cups of honey dip. You may need to double the amount to cover all the grapes.

Let the excess honey dip drip off the grapes before arranging them on dehydrator trays.

An alternative to the honey dip- lower calorie

Some people don’t like honey; others may wish to reduce the calories of the raisins a bit.  So here’s another treatment for grapes before turning them into raisins.

Bring water to a boil. Dip the grapes in a colander into the boiling water for 30 seconds, and then quickly plunge into ice water. Drain. Add 1 teaspoon of ascorbic acid (canning supplies), or 6 crushed, plain, 500 mg. Vitamin C  tablets to each two cups of water; stir to dissolve. You need enough to cover the grapes. Soak grapes for 5 minutes, then drain and begin drying process.

Storing Your Raisins

Make sure raisins are perfectly dry before storing. Package the raisins in small quantities. If some mold, only that package will need to be discarded.

Use glass or food grade plastic containers with tight lids for storage. Recycled food containers are fine if they are washed with hot water and soap and dried.

Raisins may also be packaged with a vacuum type food bags.  Store all containers out of direct sunlight.

Wash your feet and mash those grapes!

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com     Phone 810-664-8912

For Sale:  I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this spring $10 each without cage, $20 for bird with small, new cage of assorted colors.  They are not hand fed.  Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow) and shades of pale green, olive green, and sea green.  Some I can sex now, others are a guess.  You’ll need to bring your own cage if you don’t purchase a cage.  Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of fun to watch.  Call at 989-761-7609.

Also for sale Muscovy ducklings, black laced, about 3 months old, fine to be without mom but you must buy at least 2, unless you have other ducks.  $5 each. Call the number above.  Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks.  They do not quack- and are very quiet.

Mary Lou Lafond has a huge, 5 feet +,  Norfolk Island Pine to give away.  You must move it.  Norfolk Pines are indoor plants, must be inside before frost.  For more info contact her at  marylafond@frontier.com


2016 Native Plant Sale Oct 1 – 2, 2016 10am-4:30 pm, Matthaei Botanical Gardens, Ann Arbor, MI

The gardens will be selling native plants grown on the site. For more information contact  mbgna.umich.edu, or call 734-647-7600.


13th Annual Fall Into Spring 2016 - October 1, 2016, 8 am – 3 pm. Mott Community College Event Center, 1401 E. Court Street, Flint MI

Master Gardener Association Genesee County presents:
- A wonderful way to experience tips and ideas to create a beautiful garden for next year. A fun-filled and inspirational event full of ideas and guidelines to benefit any gardener -- from basic to the most experienced.

**Early Registration is $65.00 by Friday, September 23, 2016.
Registration AFTER Friday, September 23, 2016 will be $70.00**

Registration form is at this link: http://fallintospring.weebly.com/

The Speakers:
Janet Macunivich Professional gardener. garden designer, educator, author, columnist for Garden A to Z. Her topic: “Low Maintenance Gardening.”

Jan Burns, Owner, Burns Botanicals, Oxford, MI, will teach us the many ways we can grow anduse garden herbs in “Herbs: How to Grow and Harvest”

Jan Bills, Owner/operator Two Women and a HoeTM. Her topic“Dirty Little Secrets”gives us insight into practical gardening secrets that will make us love, not labor over our gardens.

George Papadelis, Owner, Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, author & educator. George will give us a sneak peek at the new annuals and perennials for 2017.

The Garden Market: Shop our market of vendors who offer for sale many hand-made or one-of-a-kind items, including garden stones, garden art, herbal products, unique gardening supplies & more! *Note: Some vendors take only cash or checks.

Make checks payable to: MGAGCM
Mail registration to:
Genesee County Master Gardeners
Fall Into Spring Conference
P.O. Box 34
Flushing, MI 48433

Questions? Call or email Loretta (810) 344-7383 ldellwood@aol.com



Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter/blog information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly note if you email me. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com




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