© Kim Willis - no
parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.
Hi
Gardeners
 |
| Moonflower |
I finally got to see my moonflower bloom. They are so beautiful and smell so good. Next year I’ll start mine sooner. The woodland nicotiana is also pretty now,
and all my dahlias are now blooming. I
am still getting tomatoes and cucumbers from the garden but that won’t last
long I’m afraid.
I kind of look forward to the time when we have our
first frost and the mosquitoes are gone, then warmer weather returns. And I don’t have to worry about watering (outside
anyway), anymore, just planting bulbs.
Bringing
the houseplants in
I spent most of yesterday bringing in houseplants. It was a monumental undertaking as everything
has grown over the summer and I added some plants of course. I brought in over 60 plants and there are
still some that are a little more cold hardy that are outside. I still need to pot the lemon cypress – it’s
in a huge tub with hardy perennials- and bring in the geraniums, rosemary, and
tuberose begonias. They can stay out
until a hard frost is predicted. I let
the cannas, dahlias, glads, peacock lilies and rain lilies stay out until they
go dormant, and then I bring the pots inside.
Arranging the plants so everything has enough light but
can still be watered is a real challenge.
I am still not finished. All
summer I hoard things that might work as plant saucers and I still have to place
those trays under a lot of the plants when the arranging is finished. Every
room in the house except the bathroom has plants in it. Our bathroom is small
and the north window is frosted but eventually I may work out a grow light
situation in there. When I am finished I’ll
post pictures.
I now have 11 spider plants of various sized pots. They
break off and root in the soil outside and I can’t just leave them, I dig them
up and pot them. I have two huge jade
plants and moving them always breaks off a number of stems. I have some lying on the desk in front of
me. I will of course pot these up and
try to squeeze them in somewhere. And a
few other succulent pieces broke off here and there that will be potted. Yes, I am a plant hoarder.
One exciting find was that I have limes growing on my
key lime tree. The plant was outside
behind my water feature this summer and it took me a half hour to unwind the
mina and morning glory vines that had grown up in it. When they were gone I
could see the fruit. I am hoping the
little limes don’t fall off from the move inside.
Grow
lights
My house does not have enough window space to keep all
my plants alive so last year I experimented with grow lights to help keep
things growing. This year with even more
and bigger plants I expanded my grow light operation. There are so many energy efficient options
now. I purchased an LED red-blue light
flood lamp bulb and a 1 foot square LED hanging lamp that came with hilarious
instructions translated from Chinese. They had tried to black out pictures of
marihuana growing under the bulb in the instructions by drawing lines through
them.
The LED lights are very cheap to operate and the purchase
cost has come way down too but I am not sure I like the light they give
off. It’s a purple light and it makes
the color of the plants look odd. I
suppose that’s ok if you are growing pot but I like to see the color of my hibiscus
and mandevilla flowers.
I decided to purchase some CFL “bright sunlight” grow bulbs
to add to my grow light situation. I’ll
use them in clamp on type reflector lights that I purchased last year. I painted them hunter green on the outside
and they blend in well. I used daylight
type bulbs last year and I liked that light.
Those bulbs are also economical to run but they don’t last as long as
the LED’s are supposed to last. When mixed with the LED purple light they make
the light look more natural. I also
purchased some cheap timers so I won’t have to turn all those lamps on and
off. I intend to leave them on about 12
hours a day.
My plants and the supplemental lights are clustered in
front of windows. I sure hope I don’t
get raided! But Michigan winters are so
dark and gloomy and those plants and lights make me feel much happier, without
me growing anything I have to smoke!
If anyone has advice on good grow lights and how they worked for you let me know.
If anyone has advice on good grow lights and how they worked for you let me know.
Saving
tender perennials for indoor use
You just read that I hate to discard any plants. I love a patio and yard filled with colorful
plants and if I can get plants that I can use for more than one year so much
the better. There are many plants that gardeners grow in their gardens and
outdoor containers as annual plants that are really perennial plants in warmer
climates. Some of our most common
bedding plants that we treat as annuals fall into this category. If gardeners rescue these plants before a
frost they can become attractive houseplants for the winter.
It’s also economical to keep a few tender perennials
over the winter so you don’t have to buy them again in the spring. Many of these tender perennials can be
multiplied by cuttings to produce a whole new selection to use outdoors next
spring or to share with friends. Some
tender perennials that are over-wintered become large, attractive plants that
would be impossible to obtain with one summers growth.
 |
| Hibicus Kona |
There is a list of these tender perennials that can
winter indoors given below. If these
plants are growing in the ground they should be dug up and carefully
potted. If they are crammed into a
container that is pretty full and lush it would be wise to separate the
different plants and pot them separately.
Plants that are in containers where true annuals can be removed to give
them room, or which have enough room, can be brought inside in the pots they
were growing in. Check the plants and
the pots carefully so you don’t bring in small surprise guests like frogs and
mice.
Use a good, lightweight potting soil if you need to
re-pot tender perennials you are bringing inside. Some insects can become a big problem indoors
if they hitch a ride inside. It is a
good idea to spray plants with an insecticide or use a systemic insecticide on
them the day before you bring them inside. If you do it outside you won’t pollute your
indoor air and surfaces. And the
insecticides won’t impact pollinators inside your home. However if you have
pets that munch on leaves indoors you may want to skip the insecticide.
Some of these plants go semi-dormant in winter, even
when brought inside. They will begin
growing again in the spring however, as the days lengthen. The plants that do go into a resting stage
can often be kept in a room that is well lit but has cool temperatures that
stay just above freezing, such as a sunny porch. Other tender perennials need room
temperatures that don’t go below 55 degrees F. to do well over the winter.
Instead of bringing whole plants inside you can
sometimes take cuttings of plants and over winter small plants you start from
them. It is better to start these plants
outside in late summer, and then bring in the small pots before frost. However, if frost threatens and it seems to
be too much work to bring a large plant inside, take a few cuttings and try
your luck.
Don’t try to save too many tender perennials unless you
have a big greenhouse. (Even I close my eyes and leave some behind.) Just save
the most expensive, rarest or your personal favorites. You can propagate cuttings from one or two
plants for a new border of impatiens rather than trying to save the whole
border. All plants need room and good light and the more you have, the more
time you will spend caring for them. Trust
me, I know.
Tender
perennials that need warm winter conditions
These plants need temperatures that stay above 55
degrees, bright light and moderate watering over winter.
 |
| Polka Dot plant |
Of course any tropical pot plant you bought for the
patio can probably be brought inside.
Tender fruiting plants like the various citrus family members, papaya, pomegranate,
banana plants and figs that aren’t hardy to your area can be wintered
inside.
Tender
perennials that can go semi-dormant
Bring these into a cool, above freezing place with
bright light and water lightly, just enough to keep them from wilting. Trim back straggly ends and yellowed
foliage. Geraniums, argyranthemum, diascia,
rosemary, perennial reeds, sedges and grasses not hardy to your zone, tender
lavenders, salvia Black and Blue and other perennial salvias not hardy to your
zone, and tender passionfruit plants.
In general if a perennial plant is hardy in a zone or
two higher than yours you can try over wintering it this way. Many of these
plants actually require some cooler weather to produce flowers so don’t keep
them inside a warm area.
Tender
bulbs and tubers
Bring these
bulbs or tubers into cool not freezing area, with natural daylight, leave bulbs in pots to die back, after
foliage dies cease watering, keep above freezing, and then begin watering again
in March, and place in full sun. Colocasia- (elephants ears and taro), Eucomis-
(pineapple lilies), caladiums, calla lilies, rain lilies, peacock orchids, and
tuberous begonias.
Other tender bulbs like cannas, glads, dahlias, etc.
can be dug after a light frost kills the foliage and stored dry, with foliage
cut off, in peat moss, sand, wood shavings or vermiculite. They must be dug before a hard freeze.
Planning
fall color in the garden
Fall in the garden can be as lovely as spring is, full
of flowers, textures and attractive foliage, if the gardener plans for fall
color. If your garden seems a little
drab this fall it’s time to think about what you can do to make it better next
year.
Many areas have a few light frosts, then some milder
weather before a big killer freeze.
Don’t let your garden color disappear with those first light
frosts. Some plants will survive very
well until a hard freeze and others can be protected to prolong bloom. And there’s always the option of adding color
to the garden again with potted fall blooming plants.
Using
cool season annuals
Many annuals and tender perennials such as geraniums, argyranthemum
calendula, snapdragons, fibrous rooted begonias and diascia are just getting
full and beautiful as cool weather approaches.
They will survive light frost, and actually thrive in cooler
weather. Ornamental cabbage and kale
are excellent choices as cold weather really brings out their color. If pansies that were planted in the spring
were cut back in mid-summer they will now respond with a new flush of bloom.
Some summer flowering bulbs like dahlias and cannas are
great for fall color. They won’t survive
frost unless you cover them, but they make great color splashes for fall
gardens. After a hard frost kills them,
dig the bulbs and save them for next year.
Using
fall blooming perennials
There are many perennials that bloom late in the season
and provide that color splash you need.
Many sedums are fall blooming.
Goldenrod and perennial asters are fall stars in the garden. Garden mums are a traditional fall
favorite. Russian Sage blooms late and
many of the landscape roses continue to bloom until a hard freeze. Anemones and cyclamen are fall bloomers for
light shade. Keep the seed heads cut off
buddleia and they will bloom for a long while into fall.
Some perennials that are sold as re-blooming such as
German iris and daylilies, struggle to re-bloom through much of zone 5. Those
of you in zones 6 and higher have better luck. Your chances are greatest around the city “
heat sink” areas. In some falls, however
these re-bloomers will put on a show even in more northerly areas.
Don’t forget ornamental grasses for fall color. Many have beautiful fall flower spikes and by
fall they also have impressive clumps of foliage.
Foliage
and fruit for color
Yes the leaves of deciduous trees and shrubs can
brighten the garden in shades of red, orange and gold. If fall color in a tree or shrub is important
to you, shop for them in the fall. You
can then see if the color is what you want.
Dogwood, crabapples, bittersweet, holly, cotoneaster, viburnums,
coralberry, and beautyberry are examples of plants with fruits that can provide
fall color. Both English Ivy and Virginia
Creeper are vines with brilliant red fall color.
Shrubs with good fall color include burning bush, barberry,
ninebark, serviceberry, viburnums, ornamental chokecherries, sumac, and
smokebush. Blueberries can serve a dual purpose, berries and great fall leaf color.
Some smaller plants also have lovely fall color. Amsonia has pretty blue flowers in spring and
turns into a golden flare in the fall garden.
While hosta are browning and dying in cool fall weather the many foliage
colors of heuchera are still lush and pretty.
Wintergreen is a groundcover that turns a pretty burgundy-purple and has
bright red berries also.
Using
frost protection
The less hardy annuals and tender perennials putting on
such a glorious show at the end of the season can continue to bloom if you
remember to cover them when frost threatens. These include zinnias,
nasturtiums, impatiens, begonias, coleus, petunias and marigolds. Save old thin sheets for this or buy floating
row cover at the garden store. Newspaper
is also a fair choice, although hard to keep in place. Avoid using plastic as
it often causes damage to leaves that it touches. Remember to cover hanging
baskets, containers and window boxes too if you want to prolong their
bloom.
Plants will need to be covered whenever temperatures
are expected to be below 40 º F and the sky is clear, and winds calm. Usually zone 5 and 6 falls have a few nights
of this weather then recover a bit for several weeks. If you protected your
annuals they will be blooming through the better weather. On rainy nights, even very cool ones the
plants are safe. However, if
temperatures drop below 32ºF for more than an hour or so even your covers won’t
help some of the plants.
Cheating
If you didn’t plan for fall color and suddenly find you
need it, there are always those potted mums and icicle pansies that are
available in pots in garden stores.
Simply tuck the pots in wherever color is needed. If you want the icicle pansies to return and
bloom in early spring it is better to plant them directly into the ground.
Potted mums rarely survive winter even if the label
says they are hardy. If you want to try
to save them, plant them into the ground as soon as you get them, keep them
watered until the ground freezes and don’t remove the dead stems until late
spring when new growth has started.
You can also leave mums in their pot, and bring them
inside after the first freeze and keep them in a cool but bright spot. When the blooming slows down in the darker
days of winter cut them back to 6 inches and water lightly. They will begin growing again when the days
lengthen and it warms up. When all
danger of frost is passed plant them outside in the ground. Most will then give
you another fall show of color and many will return year after year.
Quick
and easy apple cake
Do you have lots of fresh apples at your house? Fall is a great time to fire up the oven to
do a little baking with those apples.
Let the spicy warm scent of apples cooking lift your spirits on those gloomy
wet fall days. This cake is easy to make
using a prepared cake mix and is a good potluck or tailgate dessert. You can use any kind of apples in this recipe
but tart, crisp apples are best.
You will need:
6 cups of
peeled and sliced
apples
apples
4
tablespoons of butter
1 cup of
brown sugar, packed
1 spice
cake mix
eggs and
oil called for in the mix
1 jar of
caramel ice cream
topping
topping
Melt the butter in a large skillet, add the brown sugar
and apple slices, cover pan and cook on low heat until the apple slices are
tender, about 5 minutes. Stir the
cooking apples frequently.
Spray the bottom and sides of a 9 x 13 cake pan with
cooking spray. Instead of spraying a pan
it could be lined with non-stick foil for an easy clean up.
When the apples are tender, pour skillet contents in the
cake pan and spread them evenly over the bottom of the cake pan.
Prepare the cake mix according to the directions. Pour the mix over the apples in the pan. Bake the cake at 350 degrees until a knife
inserted in the middle comes out clean- 30-40 minutes.
Let the cake cool about 5 minutes then poke holes
evenly across the surface with the handle of a wooden spoon, skewer or similar
item. Pour the caramel ice cream
topping over the cake evenly, it will be absorbed by the cake.
This cake is great served warm with cool whip or ice
cream. It also freezes well.
Baked
apples in the crock pot
Here’s another way to use some of your apple
harvest. Pop this in your slow
cooker-crock pot to make your house smell wonderful and provide you with an
easy delicious dessert.
Wash and core apples, enough for a single layer in the
slow cooker. Try to leave a bit of core at the very bottom of the apple instead
of a hole going all the way through. My slow cooker takes 6-8 apples.
Spray the slow cooker bottom with a no stick pan spray
or lightly coat with butter.
In the hole left from removing the apple core place a
pat of real butter.
Mix together brown sugar, a tablespoon for each apple
and your choice of spices to taste. I
use about a ¼ teaspoon cinnamon and a little nutmeg for 6 teaspoons of brown
sugar. Some people also add ground cloves.
Place the apples in the slow cooker, with the hole side
up. Spoon a tablespoon of the sugar spice mix into each apple on top of the
butter.
Bake for about 3 hours on high 4-5 hours on medium
heat. The apples should feel soft.
Let apples cool slightly, top with a dab of caramel and
a spoonful of whipped cream or serve with ice cream.
This
weeks weed- velvet leaf (Abutilon theophrasti)
Velvet leaf is a common weed of crops and gardens in
the United States. Other names include
pie marker, butter weed, Indian hemp and wild cotton. How common names get given is a mystery since
this plant doesn’t resemble cotton and I can’t imagine anyone using it to mark
pie.
 |
| Velvet leaf |
Velvet leaf is an annual plant. It grows in sunny places and prefers rich
fertile soil. The plant begins growing
after frost danger has passed and the soil is warm and quickly gets from 2-5
feet in height.
Velvet leaf has heart shaped leaves covered with soft
hairs, hence the common name that makes some sense-velvet leaf. The leaves have a finely serrated edge and
young leaves may have a reddish tint.
Velvet leaf flowers in late summer. The flowers are small, yellow with 5 petals
and stamens fused into a tube. They appear
in the axils of the upper leaves. The flowers turn into oddly shaped, ridged,
circular seed capsule many people describe as crown–like. Each of the 9-15 segments of the seed capsule
has a point on the end. Each segment
contains 3-9 gray to brown seeds. Under
a magnifying glass one can see the seeds have star shaped hairs all over them. The seeds fall to the ground where they can
remain viable for up to 60 years.
Uses
of velvet leaf
Velvetleaf seeds can be eaten raw before they are ripe
but aren’t very tasty. Ripe mature seeds
can be dried and ground into a type of survival flour, many people leach the
seeds first to draw out the bitterness then they are roasted before being
ground. Seeds can also be pressed to
provide oil.
Occasionally one finds mention of velvet leaf as herbal
medicine but its unclear if the plant is being mistaken for another plant with
the same common name (Senna
lindheimeriana).
Velvet leaf stems are steamed and the fibers separated
out to make rope, thread and paper.
Hikers and survivalists know the leaves of velvet leaf make good toilet
paper.
Book
Review- Beyond
the War on Invasive Species: A Permaculture Approach to Ecosystem Restoration
By Tao Orion, Chelsea Green Publishing (June 17, 2015)
Those of you who have read some of my previous
newsletters know that I have a different take on invasive plants than many
other garden writers. I have done a lot
of research on the subject. Another
person who has done a lot of research is the author of this book, Tao
Orion.
Did you know that one of biggest users of potent
pesticides in our environment is the invasive plant movement? Restoration projects across the US pour on
the pesticides, often donated to them from big pesticide manufacturers like Monsanto
and Bayer, in an effort to eliminate unwanted non-native plants. Sometimes they “nuke” entire ecosystems to
start over, with plants they feel belong in a certain environment. Some of the biggest donators to native plant
associations and invasive species removal councils are those big chemical
companies. Makes you wonder.
Did you know that because of modern DNA research that
we are finding that many plants we thought were native really aren’t native? They were brought with the first peoples
migrating into the country or spread by trade from later settlements in South
and Central America or maybe spread by animals, thousands of years before European settlement. So what is a native species and why is it
better?
And did you know that those early civilizations in
North America often drastically modified the environments they lived in? Many of us think that before Europeans
arrived indigenous peoples lived very lightly on the land, not interfering in
ecosystems or changing the environments they lived in. But what many people don’t realize is that
before Europeans arrived, bringing their diseases with them, there were large colonies
of people, thousands of people in some settlements, spread across North
America. These people farmed large areas
of land and managed hunting and gathering to their advantage to support these
large populations.
First people burned grasslands, removed trees, mined
for minerals, planted crops, built villages and roads, and yes, brought in many
species of plants through trade between the continents of the new world. Archaeology supports these conclusions.
But when early European explorers began to travel
through North and South America, noting the large villages, prosperous farms
and abundant game, they brought with them diseases like measles, small pox and
the flu, which spread and killed thousands of people. Great cities and croplands were soon abandoned.
Populations vastly declined. A 150 or so
years later when European settlers began to spread from the Eastern coast line
they thought they found untouched land, and native wilderness where once large
populations of native peoples had lived and indeed, changed the landscape.
The author believes that what we hold as sacred,
untouched wilderness is actually not.
She believes that when an environment changes, when non-native plants
and animals gain a foothold and seem to overpower native species, there is generally
a reason and before we try and restore an area to its “native” state we ought
to think carefully about why the changes are happening. What is different about the environment? And do we really know the native state?
Pre-European doesn’t mean much.
As the old saying goes nature abhors a vacuum. Nature is not static and is constantly
changing. We ought to work with nature
and not against it. If it takes
extensive “gardening” i.e. removal of species, cutting, burning, and use of
harmful chemicals to keep an area “natural” then we are overlooking something
and interfering with nature, working against it. As the climate changes we will need to keep
this in mind if we want to have vibrant, working ecologies.
Tao Orion teaches permaculture design at Oregon State
University and at Aprovecho, a 40-acre nonprofit sustainable-living educational
organization. She holds a degree in agroecology and sustainable
agriculture from UC Santa Cruz, and Columbines School of Botanical Studies in
Eugene, Oregon. She has worked in the “restorative”
field and in permaculture systems. She would like to see us
integrate organic agriculture, sustainable land-use planning, ethnobotany, and
ecosystem restoration to create beneficial social, economic, and ecological systems.
The book is carefully researched and provides
references and statistics. It’s easy to
read and will provide the reader with valuable insights and perhaps change
their mind a bit about the wisdom of battling invasive species in the way we
have been doing. I highly suggest anyone
who cares about the planet read this book.
.
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me. You can also
ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are
welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a
meeting for free. Contact
susanmklaffer@yahoo.com Phone
810-664-8912
For sale Muscovy
ducklings, black laced, about 4 months old, you must buy at least 2, unless you
have other ducks. $5 each. Message me at
kimwillis151@gmail.com for more info. Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make
good meat ducks. They do not quack- and
are very quiet.
Mary Lou Lafond has a
huge, 5 feet +, Norfolk Island Pine to
give away. You must move it. Norfolk Pines are indoor plants, must be
inside before frost. For more info
contact her at marylafond@frontier.com
2016 Native Plant Sale Oct 1 – 2,
2016 10am-4:30 pm,
Matthaei Botanical Gardens, Ann Arbor, MI
The gardens
will be selling native plants grown on the site. For more information
contact mbgna.umich.edu, or call
734-647-7600.
13th Annual Fall Into Spring 2016 -
October 1, 2016, 8 am – 3 pm. Mott Community College Event Center, 1401 E.
Court Street, Flint MI
Master
Gardener Association Genesee County presents:
- A
wonderful way to experience tips and ideas to create a beautiful garden for
next year. A fun-filled and inspirational event full of ideas and guidelines to
benefit any gardener -- from basic to the most experienced.
**Early
Registration is $65.00 by Friday, September 23, 2016.
Registration
AFTER Friday, September 23, 2016 will be $70.00**
The
Speakers:
Janet
Macunivich Professional gardener. garden designer, educator, author, columnist
for Garden A to Z. Her topic: “Low Maintenance Gardening.”
Jan Burns,
Owner, Burns Botanicals, Oxford, MI, will teach us the many ways we can grow
anduse garden herbs in “Herbs: How to Grow and Harvest”
Jan Bills,
Owner/operator Two Women and a HoeTM. Her topic“Dirty Little Secrets”gives us
insight into practical gardening secrets that will make us love, not labor over
our gardens.
George
Papadelis, Owner, Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, author & educator. George
will give us a sneak peek at the new annuals and perennials for 2017.
The Garden
Market: Shop our market of vendors who offer for sale many hand-made or
one-of-a-kind items, including garden stones, garden art, herbal products,
unique gardening supplies & more! *Note: Some vendors take only cash or
checks.
Make checks
payable to: MGAGCM
Mail
registration to:
Genesee
County Master Gardeners
Fall Into
Spring Conference
P.O. Box 34
Flushing,
MI 48433
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter/blog
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have
the item published in my weekly note if you email me. You must give your full
name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very
open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to
publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture.
It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and
at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you
know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog
is published have them send their
email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
