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Tuesday, August 23, 2016

August , 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter


 © Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.


Hi Gardeners
Joe Pye weed along the road

It’s a beautiful summer day here- how many times have I said that on a Tuesday?  It’s rare.  I love this weather.  I have been able to do some weeding.  The garden is producing well and I am thinking about planting some fall veggies. We had some nice onions this year.  I planted a mixture of plants, unnamed but they seem to be good varieties.  We had a small cantaloupe and a tiny melon ripen.  The melon was perfectly ripe and sweet but there was only a tablespoon of “flesh” from either half.

My brugmansia is loaded with flowers- I counted 20 some buds, with about 7 open today.  The tropical hibiscus are also blooming nicely and growing like crazy.  It’s hard to imagine that I will have to bring them inside in just a few weeks.  I am hoping for a long frost free fall because my tall dahlias still haven’t bloomed.  The woodland nicotiana is finally having a growth spurt and if I am lucky it will bloom before frost too.

Autumn sedums and mums are starting to open.  Goldenrod is blooming.  You can sense fall in the wildflowers growing along the roads, queen anne’s lace, chicory, boneset, joe pye weed, and the asters are beginning to bloom.  It’s time to gather flowers and seed heads for drying.

With the garden work starting to wind down and me getting the attitude of “I’m finished with tinkering with gardens” for the season, (that will change I’m sure),  I have more time for walks, and nature observation. I noticed 3 hummingbirds at one feeder at the same time- a rare occurrence as they are usually fighting.  I am certain they must be babies from the same clutch.  And I found my red turkey has a clutch of eggs out in the field she has started sitting on.

I hope that your late summer days are going well too and you have time for fun before winter.

Should you have a fall vegetable garden?

It’s August and in the northern states it’s time to decide if you want a fall vegetable garden.  Yes- a vegetable garden that you plant in the fall, some people do that.  You need to decide soon because there isn’t that many days left in our growing season.  But do you really want and need a fall vegetable garden?

Let’s take some time to discuss the pros and cons of fall vegetable gardens so you can make informed decisions.

The cons of fall vegetable gardens

For a lot of gardeners August is a miserable time to work in the garden.  It’s hot and full of mosquitoes and the beach is calling your name.  If you have a hard time keeping the garden weeded or even collecting your gardens harvest, you probably aren’t keen to start a new garden.   Many people are going nuts trying to preserve the harvest they are reaping from their spring garden.  And that’s all right; you don’t need to feel guilty.  As you finishing harvesting parts of your garden weed them, pile compost and manure on them and let them rest. 

Some people plant a cover crop on unused garden beds but if you are going to that trouble you might as well grow something you can eat such as kale or beets.  And then you have basically decided to have a fall garden.  There might not be a harvest to worry about but cover crops will need to be mowed or killed before winter and that takes work too.

You’ll need space for your fall vegetable garden.  If you have empty beds you are all set.  But waiting for a crop to be finished so that you can use the space for a fall garden may take longer than you planned.  And tilling up new areas probably is more work than you want to do in August.

Fall vegetable gardens are always a gamble anyway.  An early hard frost hits and you have done a lot of work for nothing.  Cool and rainy fall weather won’t make some crops happy.    It’s often hard to find seeds this time of year to sow fall crops and starter plants are even scarcer. If it all seems like too much work to you then it probably is.  Go on, wrap it up for the season and rest with your garden soil.

The pros of fall vegetable gardens


Some people however may not have had time to plant a garden in the spring or for some reason their spring garden was ruined.  These people may feel that their gardening urges are unfulfilled and are ready and eager to plant a vegetable garden in the fall.  Or you may be worried that you don’t have enough fresh produce for the winter and want to add to your stores.  And you may just be bored and want to escape from household duties or your spouse for a few more weeks.  For you folks a fall vegetable garden makes sense.

Not every vegetable crop is suitable for a fall crop.  Some won’t produce fruit if the daylight is getting shorter as it does in the fall.  Some crops won’t have time to mature before a hard frost kills them.  A good tip to keep in mind is to use day neutral varieties, (which means the length of daylight doesn’t affect them), and use varieties that have the shortest days to maturity.

In planting zones 5 and 6 you will probably have 8-10 weeks before a hard frost if you plant in early August.  Some crops don’t mind a light frost and some can be protected with row covers before light frost.   Crops that can be planted with a reasonable expectation of success include leafy greens of many types, kale, cabbage (early maturing varieties and started as plants), beets, turnips, radishes, carrots, green onions, peas, bush beans ( early maturing varieties and you may need row cover), broccoli and cauliflower- (early varieties). 

Remember that seeds sown in hot August weather may need daily watering to get them to germinate.   Before you plant you should add some vegetable garden fertilizer to the bed, especially if it was already used this spring.  Don’t plant a crop in a bed that the same crop grew in in the spring or you are asking for disease and insect problems.

An alternative to a fall vegetable garden in the ground might be a few containers of things like salad greens and scallions.  Then you can get the regular garden cleaned up and covered in compost and manure, while still munching fresh produce.  And containers are easier to cover when frost threatens or you may be able to move them inside a garage or shed for the night.

So the decision rests on you.  You can harvest your crops, add manure and compost and head off to the family cabin.  Or you can get out there and start a whole new garden.  Which will it be?

Preserving plums

Plums used to be eaten far more often than they are today.  Stewed plums, canned plums and prunes (dried plums) were dietary staples.  Try looking for canned plums in your grocery today.  You probably won’t find them.   But plums are a delicious and healthy fruit that should be included in our diets.  Michigan is second in the nation in the production of plums. The 2010 the Michigan plum crop was 1,800 tons and had a wholesale value of a billion dollars.  Not only can we eat a wide variety of fresh plums in season but there are plenty of plums for canning and drying.


Plums come into markets in late summer, about the same time as peaches.  There are a variety of plum colors from yellow to deep purple- black.  The top plum varieties are Stanley and Damson, both are great for canning or preserves.  Plums are egg shaped generally, although there are some more rounded varieties.  They have a thin skin, juicy flesh and a small pit.  They are packed with phyto-nutrients, potassium and vitamin C and as many people know, plums have a nice regulatory effect on the bowels.

Plums are best canned or dried for winter use.  They don’t survive freezing very well.  They also make excellent juice, jellies and preserves.  You can use fresh plums in place of peaches in recipes for a delicious new taste.

Choose plums that are plump, slightly firm and completely ripe. Avoid plums with soft spots.  Plums do not ripen after picking but taste better if allowed to sit for a day after picking.  They will store in the refrigerator for several days.   Some plums are better for specific uses such as drying or fresh eating.  Like peaches some plums separate from their pits easier than others. They are called freestone varieties and are best to use if you will be halving or pitting plums for canning, although many plums are canned whole with pits.

Canning plums

For every quart of plums you want to can you will need about 2 ½ pounds of plums.  Wash plums well.  If you want pitted plums half the plum and remove the pit.   If you are going to can the plums whole prick the skin of each plum with a toothpick in several places.  This is to keep them from splitting during canning, which makes the product look less appealing.

Pack the plums into hot clean jars to within a 1/2 inch from the rims.  Pour boiling water or syrup (2 ½ cups of sugar to a quart of water, bring to boiling) over the plums to a 1/2 inch from the rim. Run a knife or “bubble stick” around the jar sides and around plums to remove bubbles.  Add more liquid if needed.  Wipe the rim, add lid and screw band.  Process in a water bath canner for 25 minutes.

Plum Preserves

Preserves are like jelly, but with pieces of fruit in it.  Plum preserves are excellent on a toasted English muffin or even poured on ice cream.

Sterilize 5 half pint jars.  Keep them covered in hot water until used.  Combine 5 cups of chopped plums with 4 cups of sugar and 1 cup of water in a large pot.  Bring to a boil and cook, stirring frequently until the mixture thickens, about 15 minutes.  Drain jars, pour hot preserves into jars to within a 1/4 inch from the top.  Wipe the rim; add lids and screw bands and process in a water bath canner for 5 minutes.

Alternately you can make preserves as above but instead of using caning jars use freezer containers and freeze the preserves until used.   Store opened jars or containers in the refrigerator.

Drying Plums

If you have a dehydrator plums can be dehydrated to make prunes.  Plums should be pitted or cut in half before drying.  Rinse plums in very hot water and pat dry.  Then place the plums on the trays according to your dehydrator instructions.  It will take 24-36 hours to dry plums.

To prolong shelf life and make the color better plums can be soaked in a solution of 1 ½ teaspoons sodium bisulfite per quart of water for 15 minutes prior to drying.  Plums should be halved for this.  Find the sodium bisufite with canning supplies, wine making supplies or at a drugstore.  Make sure it is food grade.  Caution- some people are allergic to sulfite treated fruit.

Plums can be dipped in a honey solution prior to drying and they will taste more like store prunes, which are often sweetened.  Bring a 1/2 cup of sugar and 1-1/2 cups of water to boiling, turn off heat and stir in 1/2 cup of honey.  Let it cool to lukewarm, and then soak plums in it for 5 minutes, let them drain and proceed with drying.

If you are privileged to have easy access to plums during the fresh season  take advantage of our agricultural diversity by finding ways to use fresh plums in your menu and by making preserves or canning plums for winter treats. 

One woman’s weed is another woman’s flower (or man’s)

I enjoy being part of several facebook sites that feature plants of one sort or another.  Some of the things that can quickly bring on an argument is whether to call something a weed, or when someone calls a native plant invasive, or says a plant is aggressive and shouldn’t be planted when others find it absolutely lovely.   It just goes to show you that everyone has slightly different ideas about what plants are valuable and what aren’t.  Gardens are truly individual and gardeners have all kinds of tastes.
Is lamium a weed?

Last week I asked people on several garden sites to list plants they found to be a problem as far as spreading aggressively in their gardens, whether they are native or non-native.  I got a lot of answers.  (These were not plants out in natural areas but in gardens.)  It’s quite obvious that both native and non-native plants can cause headaches in the garden.

Here’s a compiled list of plants gardeners thought to be aggressive spreaders and that can become a problem as reported by responders.  I won’t label them weeds because that always brings on impassioned conversation.  These plants were listed by gardeners from many places in the US but there seemed to be a concentration of responses from zone 5-6 gardeners.

Amaranth, Bee balm, Black eyed Susan(rudbeckia), bell flower, bindweed, (all species called by that name) blue vervain, boneset, burdock, burning bush, Canada ginger, catnip, cheese mallow,cleome, clover-(various),comfrey, coneflower, Coreopsis, crabgrass, daylily, (common “ditch”), evening primrose, garlic chives, geranium(hardy), goatsbeard, gooseneck Loosestrife,  ground ivy (Creeping Charlie), dead nettle, hops, iris, Jerusalem artichoke, jewel weed, Joe Pye weed, lambs quarters, Lily of the Valley, lamium, lemon balm, lobelia (blue),milkweed, mint (all kinds), morning glories, nutsedge, oat grass, obedient plant, orange oriental poppy, Ostrich ferns, phlox(common garden), plantain, prickly lettuce, plumbago, Rose of Sharon, sedum- (Angelina, creeping), sneeze weed (helenium), tansy, trumpet vine, turtlehead(chelone), Virginia creeper, violets, yellow wood sorrel, woody (white) aster, woody nightshade.
Should you encourage milkweed?

As you can see some of these are sold in garden stores and some people reading are shaking their heads when they notice a favorite of theirs listed.  When a plant becomes an aggressive spreader, (we can’t use the term invasive unless it’s non-native according to the plant police) is determined by the place it finds itself in and the care it or the surrounding plants get. Some seemingly fine garden plants become some gardeners arch nemesis while others wish they could grow them.

Surprisingly no one mentioned dandelions, although almost every gardener has them. Ragweed wasn’t mentioned.  And most of the most hated by native plant purists are not here. Not one person mentioned Japanese knotweed, Autumn Olive, Dames Rocket, or garlic mustard. 

Ok with that said lets go on to another related subject.

When native gardening becomes ugly

Maplewood Missouri home- photo source unknown
There’s nothing wrong with gardening to help wildlife and nothing wrong with using native plants in the garden. Everyone should garden with an eye to helping birds and pollinators.  There’s nothing wrong in leaving a few “weeds” because they are favorites of wildlife.  But sometimes those who think they are creating a wildlife habitat or “natural area” are just creating a mess.  What seems to work in nature often turns ugly in a small suburban lot.

Ms Hezel's home in Maplewood Missouri  Photo from 40SouthNews
Take a look at these pictures. They are from a woman’s home in Maplewood Missouri who is being cited for weeds in the front yard. She is claiming the front yard is wildlife habitat, (which it probably is at least to rats, mice and mosquitoes), and should be allowed to stay.  The woman has been getting warned since 2012 about her yard and the city has had numerous complaints.   This year she got a ticket but is fighting it.

As you can see the front yard is quite small and the neighbors close.  This house is quite well cared for, and while we can’t see much of the neighborhood I imagine few yards look like this. And I can totally see why the neighbors and the municipality might not be happy with this yard because it is virtually indistinguishable from the yard of an abandoned house, except for the sign, which may be declaring it’s a wildlife habitat or something similar.  And the complaint also lists debris on the property, which we can’t see, including an old bathtub, refrigerator and air conditioner.

Now I have no doubt that the person who owns this home feels like they are providing a valuable oasis for wildlife in a sea of manicured lawns and concrete.   In fact that’s what she says it is and she tends to list all the important wildlife plants she has and says she tends the garden often. But you can make a place for wildlife and pollinators without it looking ugly; in fact with a little care you can have a space that is attractive to both people and wildlife.  It’s a fallacy that you have to just let things grow wild and only use native plants to have a wildlife and pollinator friendly yard.  Natural and informal is much different from weedy mess.

Let’s imagine what this yard could look like.  Let’s mentally strip it sown to bare ground and start over.  Going without a lawn in this sloped, tiny front yard should be quite easy.  Since the ground is sloped so steeply I’d keep taller plants to the sides of the lot, more like a frame and mounded medium sized plants to the center, low plants on the front edges so the house isn’t obscured.  That porch is an excellent place for hanging baskets and pots of colorful plants. A vine, maybe a passionfruit vine, could be trained up one of the porch pillars.  A trumpet vine, kept well pruned, would attract hummingbirds.

Spring bulbs, things like crocus, winter aconite, and species tulips provide early pollen and nectar for pollinators.  Plant them thickly along the sides of the stairs and along the sidewalk.  Add clumps of daffodils and tall tulips here and there for color in the yard.  Mix in some bloodroot, trilliums, trout lilies, primrose and hellebore. 

Use a coarse bark mulch between plants.  In the pictures the space between plants is filled with overgrown grass and weeds.  It’s hard to distinguish what is planted and what just appeared.

Since the foliage of bulbs needs to mature naturally and can look messy as the blooms fade plantings need to disguise the foliage.  I’d add bee balm, coreopsis, rudbeckia and Echinacea, all native plants and tending toward mounding shapes. (To be fair the woman says some of these plants are in this garden.) Some of the restrained smaller Joe Pye weeds, native and cultivated asters, garden mums, and hardy hibiscus will keep things blooming until late in the season. 

Along the wall above the sidewalk I’d add a spiller, such as trailing ornamental oregano, thyme or trailing rosemary and perhaps some annual trailers/spillers such as petunias or nasturtiums.  Trailing landscape roses are another option.

Want milkweed for monarchs?  Milkweed is fine for some species but diversity is the key even in small areas.  The garden pictured has a lot of common milkweed but little else. Plant some showy orange milkweed with common milkweed. Intersperse a few dill and fennel plants, host plants for other butterflies in the garden.  Anise hyssop and tall salvias are pollinator magnets. 

Lilies of various types are favorites of butterflies.  Plant some species lilies, tiger lilies or Asiatics in front, taller Orientals in back. A buddleia or two could be added. Garden phlox is loved by butterflies and there are some mildew resistant varieties that stay looking nice.

Pollinators love many annual species and things like zinnias, sunflowers, tithonia, cosmos and calendula are easy to grow from seed and keep the garden colorful.  Some of these also provide winter seeds for birds.

The object is to have a pretty as well as functional habitat for wildlife.  There should be some sense of organization even in an informal setting. Paths, even if small and mostly ornamental, help demonstrate planning. (Probably not in this garden though.) Groups of plants with similar shapes and colors helps form that impression as well as heights graduated from small to large and neat edges.  Color through the season is a goal.  And of course you will not be using pesticides on your wildlife habitat.

Not every native plant has a lot of value to wildlife.  And many non-native plants are quite valuable to wildlife and pollinators. In a small area you can’t have every plant that appeals to every type of wildlife or pollinator; you have to pick and choose so make your choices wisely.

When you are planting habitat and eliminating lawn in an urban or suburban setting plan on plenty of pruning, judicious weeding and lots of planting.  Remove plants when they die and cut back straggly looking non-blooming perennials.  You can’t just stop mowing and let things grow and call it wildlife habitat.  And before eliminating lawns and planting wildlife habitat in front yards you should check for any ordinances your municipality or neighborhood  association has.  If you choose to live in a specific area obey the laws or work to change them.

When I look at the woman’s yard in Missouri I don’t see a garden.  I don’t see well planned native habitat either.  I see a mess.  My hands itch to cut it down and tear most of it out.  And I am not known for having the neatest garden beds and I am pretty tolerant of weeds.  I see the point of providing plants for wildlife and strive to do so.  But I am sure that non-native plants and nice looking plants can be just as helpful as native ones. 

What do you see when you look at the pictures?   Would you change this or not?  If the owner likes it should she be allowed to do things her way or should the neighbors be considered?  Feel free to comment on the bottom of the blog or email me at kimwillis151@gmail.com



  
This week’s “weed”- Goldenrod- Solidago spps.

There are several types of Goldenrod that can be found in the northeast but the two most common are Gray Goldenrod, Solidago nemoralis, and Tall Goldenrod, Solidago altissima.  Both have the sprays of tiny gold flowers for which the plant is named.  Gray Goldenrod is shorter, the flower sprays are not as wide and arched as Tall Goldenrod and each long narrow leaf has two short leaves by it where it attaches to the stem.  Tall Goldenrod can grow to 5 feet high in good conditions and the flower spikes tend to from a pyramidal shape at the top of the plant.  Both plants have rough, stiff stems and the leaves and stems are slightly hairy.
Goldenrod

The sprays of gold are formed by hundreds of tiny yellow, daisy-like flowers which each have a nectar tube.  This nectar is an important food for butterflies fueling up to fly south and bees preparing for winter as is the abundant, heavy pollen.  Goldenrod begins blooming in late summer and blooms until a heavy frost. Goldenrod will grow almost anywhere, in sun and light shade, in moist or dry locations.  It’s a common roadside and field wildflower.

Since Goldenrod blooms at the same time as Ragweed, it is often thought to be the cause of seasonal allergies.  Ragweed, with its tiny, nondescript green flowers that release pollen into the wind is the culprit that causes seasonal allergies.  However, Goldenrod pollen is heavy and sticky and is carried by insects from plant to plant and is not blown in the wind.  It does not cause seasonal allergies and it’s safe to allow this beautiful plant to grow in your yard and flowerbeds.   

A European species of Goldenrod was once used in many herbal preparations.  American varieties of Goldenrod are used in many European gardens for fall color and selected and improved varieties are available.  It deserves more of a place in American gardens as it is very showy and makes a great cut flower.



Have you heard the cicadas singing?
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

For Sale:  I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this spring $10 each without cage, $20 for bird with small, new cage of assorted colors.  They are not hand fed.  Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow) and shades of pale green, olive green, and sea green.  Some I can sex now, others are a guess.  You’ll need to bring your own cage if you don’t purchase one.  Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of fun to watch.  Call at 989-761-7609.


Also for sale Muscovy ducklings, black laced, about 3 months old, fine to be without mom but you must buy at least 2, unless you have other ducks.  $5 each. Call the number above.  Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks.  They do not quack- and are very quiet.

Mary Lou Lafond has a huge, 5 feet +,  Norfolk Island Pine to give away.  You must move it.  Norfolk Pines are indoor plants, must be inside before frost.  For more info contact her at  marylafond@frontier.com




Native Shrubs & Trees- Thursday, Sep 8, 2016 6:30-8:30pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

Come discover the usefulness of native woody plants in the landscape. Gardeners wishing to include more natives in their plantings have lots of beautiful options. Natives look good, often require less care, and can be more beneficial to native insects and other creatures than are non-native ornamentals. A component of this class will be a walk around the Tollgate grounds to view some of the plants discussed in the lecture. Mary Wilson has been an MSU Horticulture Educator for 30 years with a focus on environmental horticulture. $25.  For more information   http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.

Basics of Honey Bees and Beekeeping, Thursday September 22, 6:30-8:30pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

Bees have been in the spotlight lately – for good reason. So many food crops depend on bees and other pollinators for production – including our vegetable gardens and fruit trees. Clay Ottoni will introduce us to the fascinating world of honey bees and beekeeping. We will also learn what we can grow in our yard to support and encourage these industrious insects. One lucky attendee will win a bottle of honey! In addition to being an attorney, beekeeper, and farmer, Clay is current president of SEMBA (Southeast Michigan Beekeepers Association) http://www.sembabees.org/ and a long time beekeeper. $25.  For more information   http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.

Southeast Michigan Dahlia Show, Sep 10 – 11, 2016 Orchard Mall, 6337 Orchard Lake Rd, West Bloomfield Township, MI

See hundreds of dahlias on exhibit during the hours the mall is open presented by the Southeast Michigan Dahlia Society. Free.  For more information: judy892@wowway.com.


Summer is here! Our days are longer and there is more hours of light to enjoy being outdoors. We welcome you to join us: experience nature and be inspired! Back Track To Nature will offer programs on two of Lapeer Land Conservancy properties. As well as at Three Roods Farm and the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary both located in Columbiaville, MI.

We offer environmental education programs for scouts, seniors, homeschoolers, garden clubs, youth groups, retreats, special interest groups and we will tailor programming to fit your specific needs.

Aldo Leopold Bench Building Workshop    1:30pm - 4:30pm, Saturday, August 27, 2016     Tibbits Nature Sanctuary

Reservations are needed for all programs listed. Please call or  email Karen at 810-969-1023 and pagekp@gmail.com  Directions to the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary and Riseman Refuge will be given at the time of registration. Thank you!



Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter/blog information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com



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