© Kim Willis - no
parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.
Hi
Gardeners
 |
| Joe Pye weed along the road |
It’s a beautiful summer day here- how many times have I
said that on a Tuesday? It’s rare. I love this weather. I have been able to do some weeding. The garden is producing well and I am
thinking about planting some fall veggies. We had some nice onions this
year. I planted a mixture of plants,
unnamed but they seem to be good varieties.
We had a small cantaloupe and a tiny melon ripen. The melon was perfectly ripe and sweet but
there was only a tablespoon of “flesh” from either half.
My brugmansia is loaded with flowers- I counted 20 some
buds, with about 7 open today. The
tropical hibiscus are also blooming nicely and growing like crazy. It’s hard to imagine that I will have to
bring them inside in just a few weeks. I
am hoping for a long frost free fall because my tall dahlias still haven’t
bloomed. The woodland nicotiana is
finally having a growth spurt and if I am lucky it will bloom before frost too.
Autumn sedums and mums are starting to open. Goldenrod is blooming. You can sense fall in the wildflowers growing
along the roads, queen anne’s lace, chicory, boneset, joe pye weed, and the
asters are beginning to bloom. It’s time
to gather flowers and seed heads for drying.
With the garden work starting to wind down and me
getting the attitude of “I’m finished with tinkering with gardens” for the
season, (that will change I’m sure), I
have more time for walks, and nature observation. I noticed 3 hummingbirds at
one feeder at the same time- a rare occurrence as they are usually fighting. I am certain they must be babies from the
same clutch. And I found my red turkey
has a clutch of eggs out in the field she has started sitting on.
I hope that your late summer days are going well too
and you have time for fun before winter.
Should
you have a fall vegetable garden?
It’s August and in the northern states it’s time to
decide if you want a fall vegetable garden.
Yes- a vegetable garden that you plant in the fall, some people do
that. You need to decide soon because
there isn’t that many days left in our growing season. But do you really want and need a fall
vegetable garden?
Let’s take some time to discuss the pros and cons of
fall vegetable gardens so you can make informed decisions.
The
cons of fall vegetable gardens
For a lot of gardeners August is a miserable time to
work in the garden. It’s hot and full of
mosquitoes and the beach is calling your name.
If you have a hard time keeping the garden weeded or even collecting
your gardens harvest, you probably aren’t keen to start a new garden. Many people are going nuts trying to
preserve the harvest they are reaping from their spring garden. And that’s all right; you don’t need to feel
guilty. As you finishing harvesting
parts of your garden weed them, pile compost and manure on them and let them
rest.
Some people plant a cover crop on unused garden beds
but if you are going to that trouble you might as well grow something you can
eat such as kale or beets. And then you
have basically decided to have a fall garden.
There might not be a harvest to worry about but cover crops will need to
be mowed or killed before winter and that takes work too.
You’ll need space for your fall vegetable garden. If you have empty beds you are all set. But waiting for a crop to be finished so that
you can use the space for a fall garden may take longer than you planned. And tilling up new areas probably is more
work than you want to do in August.
Fall vegetable gardens are always a gamble anyway. An early hard frost hits and you have done a
lot of work for nothing. Cool and rainy
fall weather won’t make some crops happy.
It’s often hard to find seeds this time of year to sow fall crops and
starter plants are even scarcer. If it all seems like too much work to you then
it probably is. Go on, wrap it up for
the season and rest with your garden soil.
The
pros of fall vegetable gardens
Some people however may not have had time to plant a
garden in the spring or for some reason their spring garden was ruined. These people may feel that their gardening
urges are unfulfilled and are ready and eager to plant a vegetable garden in
the fall. Or you may be worried that you
don’t have enough fresh produce for the winter and want to add to your
stores. And you may just be bored and
want to escape from household duties or your spouse for a few more weeks. For you folks a fall vegetable garden makes
sense.
Not every vegetable crop is suitable for a fall
crop. Some won’t produce fruit if the
daylight is getting shorter as it does in the fall. Some crops won’t have time to mature before a
hard frost kills them. A good tip to
keep in mind is to use day neutral varieties, (which means the length of
daylight doesn’t affect them), and use varieties that have the shortest days to
maturity.
In planting zones 5 and 6 you will probably have 8-10
weeks before a hard frost if you plant in early August. Some crops don’t mind a light frost and some
can be protected with row covers before light frost. Crops that can be planted with a reasonable
expectation of success include leafy greens of many types, kale, cabbage (early
maturing varieties and started as plants), beets, turnips, radishes, carrots,
green onions, peas, bush beans ( early maturing varieties and you may need row
cover), broccoli and cauliflower- (early varieties).
Remember that seeds sown in hot August weather may need
daily watering to get them to germinate.
Before you plant you should add some vegetable garden fertilizer to the
bed, especially if it was already used this spring. Don’t plant a crop in a bed that the same
crop grew in in the spring or you are asking for disease and insect problems.
An alternative to a fall vegetable garden in the ground
might be a few containers of things like salad greens and scallions. Then you can get the regular garden cleaned
up and covered in compost and manure, while still munching fresh produce. And containers are easier to cover when frost
threatens or you may be able to move them inside a garage or shed for the
night.
So the decision rests on you. You can harvest your crops, add manure and
compost and head off to the family cabin.
Or you can get out there and start a whole new garden. Which will it be?
Preserving
plums
Plums used to be eaten far more often than they are
today. Stewed plums, canned plums and
prunes (dried plums) were dietary staples.
Try looking for canned plums in your grocery today. You probably won’t find them. But plums are a delicious and healthy fruit
that should be included in our diets.
Michigan is second in the nation in the production of plums. The 2010
the Michigan plum crop was 1,800 tons and had a wholesale value of a billion
dollars. Not only can we eat a wide
variety of fresh plums in season but there are plenty of plums for canning and
drying.
Plums come into markets in late summer, about the same
time as peaches. There are a variety of
plum colors from yellow to deep purple- black.
The top plum varieties are Stanley and Damson, both are great for
canning or preserves. Plums are egg
shaped generally, although there are some more rounded varieties. They have a thin skin, juicy flesh and a
small pit. They are packed with
phyto-nutrients, potassium and vitamin C and as many people know, plums have a
nice regulatory effect on the bowels.
Plums are best canned or dried for winter use. They don’t survive freezing very well. They also make excellent juice, jellies and
preserves. You can use fresh plums in
place of peaches in recipes for a delicious new taste.
Choose plums that are plump, slightly firm and
completely ripe. Avoid plums with soft spots.
Plums do not ripen after picking but taste better if allowed to sit for
a day after picking. They will store in
the refrigerator for several days. Some
plums are better for specific uses such as drying or fresh eating. Like peaches some plums separate from their
pits easier than others. They are called freestone varieties and are best to
use if you will be halving or pitting plums for canning, although many plums
are canned whole with pits.
Canning
plums
For every quart of plums you want to can you will need
about 2 ½ pounds of plums. Wash plums
well. If you want pitted plums half the
plum and remove the pit. If you are
going to can the plums whole prick the skin of each plum with a toothpick in
several places. This is to keep them
from splitting during canning, which makes the product look less appealing.
Pack the plums into hot clean jars to within a 1/2 inch
from the rims. Pour boiling water or
syrup (2 ½ cups of sugar to a quart of water, bring to boiling) over the plums
to a 1/2 inch from the rim. Run a knife or “bubble stick” around the jar sides
and around plums to remove bubbles. Add
more liquid if needed. Wipe the rim, add
lid and screw band. Process in a water
bath canner for 25 minutes.
Plum
Preserves
Preserves are like jelly, but with pieces of fruit in
it. Plum preserves are excellent on a
toasted English muffin or even poured on ice cream.
Sterilize 5 half pint jars. Keep them covered in hot water until
used. Combine 5 cups of chopped plums
with 4 cups of sugar and 1 cup of water in a large pot. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring frequently
until the mixture thickens, about 15 minutes.
Drain jars, pour hot preserves into jars to within a 1/4 inch from the
top. Wipe the rim; add lids and screw bands
and process in a water bath canner for 5 minutes.
Alternately you can make preserves as above but instead
of using caning jars use freezer containers and freeze the preserves until
used. Store opened jars or containers
in the refrigerator.
Drying
Plums
If you have a dehydrator plums can be dehydrated to
make prunes. Plums should be pitted or
cut in half before drying. Rinse plums
in very hot water and pat dry. Then
place the plums on the trays according to your dehydrator instructions. It will take 24-36 hours to dry plums.
To prolong shelf life and make the color better plums
can be soaked in a solution of 1 ½ teaspoons sodium bisulfite per quart of
water for 15 minutes prior to drying.
Plums should be halved for this.
Find the sodium bisufite with canning supplies, wine making supplies or
at a drugstore. Make sure it is food
grade. Caution- some people are allergic
to sulfite treated fruit.
Plums can be dipped in a honey solution prior to drying
and they will taste more like store prunes, which are often sweetened. Bring a 1/2 cup of sugar and 1-1/2 cups of
water to boiling, turn off heat and stir in 1/2 cup of honey. Let it cool to lukewarm, and then soak plums
in it for 5 minutes, let them drain and proceed with drying.
If you are privileged to have easy access to plums
during the fresh season take advantage
of our agricultural diversity by finding ways to use fresh plums in your menu
and by making preserves or canning plums for winter treats.
One
woman’s weed is another woman’s flower (or man’s)
I enjoy being part of several facebook sites that
feature plants of one sort or another.
Some of the things that can quickly bring on an argument is whether to
call something a weed, or when someone calls a native plant invasive, or says a
plant is aggressive and shouldn’t be planted when others find it absolutely
lovely. It just goes to show you that
everyone has slightly different ideas about what plants are valuable and what
aren’t. Gardens are truly individual and
gardeners have all kinds of tastes.
 |
| Is lamium a weed? |
Last week I asked people on several garden sites to
list plants they found to be a problem as far as spreading aggressively in
their gardens, whether they are native or non-native. I got a lot of answers. (These were not plants out in natural areas
but in gardens.) It’s quite obvious that
both native and non-native plants can cause headaches in the garden.
Here’s a compiled list of plants gardeners thought to
be aggressive spreaders and that can become a problem as reported by responders. I won’t label them weeds because that always
brings on impassioned conversation.
These plants were listed by gardeners from many places in the US but
there seemed to be a concentration of responses from zone 5-6 gardeners.
Amaranth, Bee balm, Black eyed Susan(rudbeckia), bell
flower, bindweed, (all species called by that name) blue vervain, boneset, burdock,
burning bush, Canada ginger, catnip, cheese mallow,cleome, clover-(various),comfrey,
coneflower, Coreopsis, crabgrass, daylily, (common “ditch”), evening primrose, garlic
chives, geranium(hardy), goatsbeard, gooseneck Loosestrife, ground ivy (Creeping Charlie), dead nettle, hops,
iris, Jerusalem artichoke, jewel weed, Joe Pye weed, lambs quarters, Lily of
the Valley, lamium, lemon balm, lobelia (blue),milkweed, mint (all kinds), morning
glories, nutsedge, oat grass, obedient plant, orange oriental poppy, Ostrich
ferns, phlox(common garden), plantain, prickly lettuce, plumbago, Rose of
Sharon, sedum- (Angelina, creeping), sneeze weed (helenium), tansy,
trumpet vine, turtlehead(chelone), Virginia creeper, violets, yellow
wood sorrel, woody (white) aster, woody nightshade.
 |
| Should you encourage milkweed? |
As you can see some of these are sold in garden stores
and some people reading are shaking their heads when they notice a favorite of
theirs listed. When a plant becomes an
aggressive spreader, (we can’t use the term invasive unless it’s non-native
according to the plant police) is determined by the place it finds itself in
and the care it or the surrounding plants get. Some seemingly fine garden
plants become some gardeners arch nemesis while others wish they could grow
them.
Surprisingly no one mentioned dandelions, although
almost every gardener has them. Ragweed wasn’t mentioned. And most of the most hated by native plant
purists are not here. Not one person mentioned Japanese knotweed, Autumn Olive,
Dames Rocket, or garlic mustard.
Ok with that said lets go on to another related
subject.
When
native gardening becomes ugly
 |
| Maplewood Missouri home- photo source unknown |
There’s nothing wrong with gardening to help wildlife
and nothing wrong with using native plants in the garden. Everyone should
garden with an eye to helping birds and pollinators. There’s nothing wrong in leaving a few “weeds”
because they are favorites of wildlife. But
sometimes those who think they are creating a wildlife habitat or “natural area”
are just creating a mess. What seems to
work in nature often turns ugly in a small suburban lot.
 |
| Ms Hezel's home in Maplewood Missouri Photo from 40SouthNews |
Take a look at these pictures. They are from a woman’s
home in Maplewood Missouri who is being cited for weeds in the front yard. She
is claiming the front yard is wildlife habitat, (which it probably is at least
to rats, mice and mosquitoes), and should be allowed to stay. The woman has been getting warned since 2012
about her yard and the city has had numerous complaints. This year she got a ticket but is fighting
it.
As you can see the front yard is quite small and the
neighbors close. This house is quite
well cared for, and while we can’t see much of the neighborhood I imagine few
yards look like this. And I can totally see why the neighbors and the
municipality might not be happy with this yard because it is virtually indistinguishable
from the yard of an abandoned house, except for the sign, which may be
declaring it’s a wildlife habitat or something similar. And the complaint also lists debris on the
property, which we can’t see, including an old bathtub, refrigerator and air
conditioner.
Now I have no doubt that the person who owns this home
feels like they are providing a valuable oasis for wildlife in a sea of
manicured lawns and concrete. In fact that’s
what she says it is and she tends to list all the important wildlife plants she
has and says she tends the garden often. But you can make a place for wildlife
and pollinators without it looking ugly; in fact with a little care you can
have a space that is attractive to both people and wildlife. It’s a fallacy that you have to just let
things grow wild and only use native plants to have a wildlife and pollinator
friendly yard. Natural and informal is
much different from weedy mess.
Let’s imagine what this yard could look like. Let’s mentally strip it sown to bare ground
and start over. Going without a lawn in
this sloped, tiny front yard should be quite easy. Since the ground is sloped so steeply I’d
keep taller plants to the sides of the lot, more like a frame and mounded
medium sized plants to the center, low plants on the front edges so the house isn’t
obscured. That porch is an excellent
place for hanging baskets and pots of colorful plants. A vine, maybe a passionfruit
vine, could be trained up one of the porch pillars. A trumpet vine, kept well pruned, would
attract hummingbirds.
Spring bulbs, things like crocus, winter aconite, and
species tulips provide early pollen and nectar for pollinators. Plant them thickly along the sides of the
stairs and along the sidewalk. Add
clumps of daffodils and tall tulips here and there for color in the yard. Mix in some bloodroot, trilliums, trout
lilies, primrose and hellebore.
Use a coarse bark mulch between plants. In the pictures the space between plants is
filled with overgrown grass and weeds.
It’s hard to distinguish what is planted and what just appeared.
Since the foliage of bulbs needs to mature naturally
and can look messy as the blooms fade plantings need to disguise the
foliage. I’d add bee balm, coreopsis,
rudbeckia and Echinacea, all native plants and tending toward mounding shapes. (To
be fair the woman says some of these plants are in this garden.) Some of the restrained
smaller Joe Pye weeds, native and cultivated asters, garden mums, and hardy
hibiscus will keep things blooming until late in the season.
Along the wall above the sidewalk I’d add a spiller, such
as trailing ornamental oregano, thyme or trailing rosemary and perhaps some
annual trailers/spillers such as petunias or nasturtiums. Trailing landscape roses are another option.
Want milkweed for monarchs? Milkweed is fine for some species but
diversity is the key even in small areas.
The garden pictured has a lot of common milkweed but little else. Plant
some showy orange milkweed with common milkweed. Intersperse a few dill and
fennel plants, host plants for other butterflies in the garden. Anise hyssop and tall salvias are pollinator
magnets.
Lilies of various types are favorites of
butterflies. Plant some species lilies,
tiger lilies or Asiatics in front, taller Orientals in back. A buddleia or two
could be added. Garden phlox is loved by butterflies and there are some mildew
resistant varieties that stay looking nice.
Pollinators love many annual species and things like
zinnias, sunflowers, tithonia, cosmos and calendula are easy to grow from seed
and keep the garden colorful. Some of
these also provide winter seeds for birds.
The object is to have a pretty as well as functional
habitat for wildlife. There should be
some sense of organization even in an informal setting. Paths, even if small
and mostly ornamental, help demonstrate planning. (Probably not in this garden
though.) Groups of plants with similar shapes and colors helps form that
impression as well as heights graduated from small to large and neat
edges. Color through the season is a
goal. And of course you will not be
using pesticides on your wildlife habitat.
Not every native plant has a lot of value to
wildlife. And many non-native plants are
quite valuable to wildlife and pollinators. In a small area you can’t have
every plant that appeals to every type of wildlife or pollinator; you have to
pick and choose so make your choices wisely.
When you are planting habitat and eliminating lawn in an
urban or suburban setting plan on plenty of pruning, judicious weeding and lots
of planting. Remove plants when they die
and cut back straggly looking non-blooming perennials. You can’t just stop mowing and let things
grow and call it wildlife habitat. And
before eliminating lawns and planting wildlife habitat in front yards you
should check for any ordinances your municipality or neighborhood association has. If you choose to live in a specific area obey
the laws or work to change them.
When I look at the woman’s yard in Missouri I don’t see
a garden. I don’t see well planned
native habitat either. I see a
mess. My hands itch to cut it down and
tear most of it out. And I am not known
for having the neatest garden beds and I am pretty tolerant of weeds. I see the point of providing plants for wildlife
and strive to do so. But I am sure that
non-native plants and nice looking plants can be just as helpful as native
ones.
What do you see when you look at the pictures? Would you change this or not? If the owner likes it should she be allowed
to do things her way or should the neighbors be considered? Feel free to comment on the bottom of the
blog or email me at kimwillis151@gmail.com
This
week’s “weed”- Goldenrod- Solidago spps.
There are several types of Goldenrod that can be found
in the northeast but the two most common are Gray Goldenrod, Solidago nemoralis,
and Tall Goldenrod, Solidago altissima.
Both have the sprays of tiny gold flowers for which the plant is
named. Gray Goldenrod is shorter, the
flower sprays are not as wide and arched as Tall Goldenrod and each long narrow
leaf has two short leaves by it where it attaches to the stem. Tall Goldenrod can grow to 5 feet high in
good conditions and the flower spikes tend to from a pyramidal shape at the top
of the plant. Both plants have rough,
stiff stems and the leaves and stems are slightly hairy.
 |
| Goldenrod |
The sprays of gold are formed by hundreds of tiny
yellow, daisy-like flowers which each have a nectar tube. This nectar is an important food for
butterflies fueling up to fly south and bees preparing for winter as is the
abundant, heavy pollen. Goldenrod begins
blooming in late summer and blooms until a heavy frost. Goldenrod will grow
almost anywhere, in sun and light shade, in moist or dry locations. It’s a common roadside and field wildflower.
Since Goldenrod blooms at the same time as Ragweed, it
is often thought to be the cause of seasonal allergies. Ragweed, with its tiny, nondescript green
flowers that release pollen into the wind is the culprit that causes seasonal
allergies. However, Goldenrod pollen is
heavy and sticky and is carried by insects from plant to plant and is not blown
in the wind. It does not cause seasonal
allergies and it’s safe to allow this beautiful plant to grow in your yard and
flowerbeds.
A European species of Goldenrod was once used in many
herbal preparations. American varieties
of Goldenrod are used in many European gardens for fall color and selected and
improved varieties are available. It
deserves more of a place in American gardens as it is very showy and makes a
great cut flower.
Have
you heard the cicadas singing?
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me. You can also
ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are
welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a
meeting for free. Contact
susanmklaffer@yahoo.com Phone
810-664-8912
For Sale: I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this
spring $10 each without cage, $20 for bird with small, new cage of assorted
colors. They are not hand fed. Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow) and shades
of pale green, olive green, and sea green.
Some I can sex now, others are a guess.
You’ll need to bring your own cage if you don’t purchase one. Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of
fun to watch. Call at 989-761-7609.
Also for sale Muscovy
ducklings, black laced, about 3 months old, fine to be without mom but you must
buy at least 2, unless you have other ducks.
$5 each. Call the number above.
Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks. They do not quack- and are very quiet.
Mary Lou Lafond has a
huge, 5 feet +, Norfolk Island Pine to
give away. You must move it. Norfolk Pines are indoor plants, must be
inside before frost. For more info
contact her at marylafond@frontier.com
Native Shrubs & Trees- Thursday, Sep 8, 2016 6:30-8:30pm,
MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI
Come
discover the usefulness of native woody plants in the landscape. Gardeners
wishing to include more natives in their plantings have lots of beautiful
options. Natives look good, often require less care, and can be more beneficial
to native insects and other creatures than are non-native ornamentals. A
component of this class will be a walk around the Tollgate grounds to view some
of the plants discussed in the lecture. Mary Wilson has been an MSU
Horticulture Educator for 30 years with a focus on environmental horticulture. $25.
For more information http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.
Basics of Honey Bees and Beekeeping, Thursday September 22, 6:30-8:30pm,
MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI
Bees have
been in the spotlight lately – for good reason. So many food crops depend on
bees and other pollinators for production – including our vegetable gardens and
fruit trees. Clay Ottoni will introduce us to the fascinating world of honey
bees and beekeeping. We will also learn what we can grow in our yard to support
and encourage these industrious insects. One lucky attendee will win a bottle
of honey! In addition to being an attorney, beekeeper, and farmer, Clay is
current president of SEMBA (Southeast Michigan Beekeepers Association) http://www.sembabees.org/ and a long time beekeeper.
$25. For more information http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.
Southeast Michigan Dahlia Show, Sep 10 – 11, 2016 Orchard Mall, 6337 Orchard Lake Rd,
West Bloomfield Township, MI
See
hundreds of dahlias on exhibit during the hours the mall is open presented by
the Southeast Michigan Dahlia Society. Free.
For more information: judy892@wowway.com.
Summer is
here! Our days are longer and there is more hours of light to enjoy being
outdoors. We welcome you to join us: experience nature and be inspired! Back
Track To Nature will offer programs on two of Lapeer Land Conservancy
properties. As well as at Three Roods Farm and the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
both located in Columbiaville, MI.
We offer
environmental education programs for scouts, seniors, homeschoolers, garden clubs,
youth groups, retreats, special interest groups and we will tailor programming
to fit your specific needs.
Aldo
Leopold Bench Building Workshop 1:30pm
- 4:30pm, Saturday, August 27, 2016
Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Reservations
are needed for all programs listed. Please call or email Karen at 810-969-1023 and
pagekp@gmail.com Directions to the
Tibbits Nature Sanctuary and Riseman Refuge will be given at the time of
registration. Thank you!
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter/blog
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have
the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what
you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas
and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I
want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture.
It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to
receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to
receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send
their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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