page links

Tuesday, August 30, 2016

August 30, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

 © Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.


Hi Gardeners

Summer is ending; you can feel it in the softening of the light, the quickening of twilight and hear it in the song of crickets.  I am starting to evaluate the season and plan for next year.  Each garden year is different, some things are more successful in some years, some less.  Gardens follow succession steps just as other ecosystems do.  Trees grow, plants mature and die, and new species are introduced.  Since it’s a garden, whether we use native plants exclusively or not, we need to be mindful of how we guide that succession.  The best way to do this is thoughtful reflection at the end of each season.  And take notes- lots of notes!

In my garden some annuals are going strong, but in general it was not the best year for them.  Many of my petunias and calibrachoas  are done for the year, hastened to their death by the heat and dryness. On the other hand the tuberous begonias are thriving and gorgeous. My woodland nicotiana is finally starting to bloom, but it’s only 3 feet high instead of 6 feet high like last year.  The sweet autumn clematis is beginning to bloom; it seems to be normally vigorous.   My dinner plate dahlias also remained short this year, and they are late, just starting to bloom.

In the vegetable garden I am pulling out the sweet corn stalks, it’s done now.  The tomatoes are rapidly succumbing to fungal disease, but I am still getting plenty.  Cucumbers are still producing.  I am being overrun with gourds and there is one nice big pumpkin, but the melons were disappointing this year.  The melons and cukes have symptoms suggesting downy mildew now, so they may not last much longer.  The cabbage is all ready to harvest and this week I’ll be making more freezer coleslaw- the recipe is further down in this blog.

Our delicious apples are almost ripe and we are getting some ripe grapes but both apples and grapes are small this year.  I am still getting a handful of black berries every few days. 

I was very bad and ordered a new hibiscus from Logee’s this week.  It’s a rare white one (Hibiscus arnottianus) which has a light fragrance that’s seldom offered.  I’ll find room for it inside somewhere. 

The bulb catalogs are arriving in force now.  I have 75 lily bulbs already ordered but I will be ordering more tulips and maybe some other things soon.  I don’t think you can have enough bulbs in the garden.  If you want flowers in the early spring now is the time to order your bulbs.

By the way Scott Knust from Old House Gardens is retiring next May after 24 years of providing gardeners with heirloom bulbs of many types.  The company, based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, will continue to offer bulbs however.  Many of you Michigan gardeners- and some from other places- may have heard Scott speak at one time or another. He’s an excellent speaker and I wish to thank him for his many years of educating people on the value and beauty of those heirloom bulbs.  I have some of those bulbs in my garden.  Want to check out the bulbs offered?  Go to http://www.oldhousegardens.com

The glad 'Atom' an heirloom.


You may notice some differences in the formatting of this blog this week.  I have to use a different browser because for some reason Goggle Chrome, which works best with many programs like this blog, is refusing to perform for me.  The pages keep becoming unresponsive and freezing.  I have tried all the usual fixes, uninstall and re-install, deleting cookies and unused extensions and so forth to no avail.  If any of you are computer geeks and know why this is happening and how to fix it, please let me know.

Growing Brugmansia

You will see the beautiful Angel’s Trumpets advertised in many garden catalogs. The plants have pretty trumpet or funnel shaped flowers that are often have a light, sweet fragrance.  In the north these plants are excellent tub plants for decks and patios.  It can be tricky to overwinter them but you will be rewarded with larger and more beautiful plants each year.  A flower loaded Brugmansia is a traffic stopper.
Two year old brugmansia

Brugmansia are plants belonging to the Solanaceae (nightshade) family, the same family that tomatoes and potatoes come from.  Modern botanists generally regard Brugmansia as having 9 species. Brugmansia originate in South and Central America, although they can come from many different climates in those countries.  There are literally hundreds of named varieties of Brugmansia with many hybrids between the species. 

Brugmansia species are semi-woody perennials, forming bush or small tree shapes.  In the wild some species are 30 or more feet high.  They have long oval leaves, sometimes toothed, that can get quite large. Brugmansia foliage tends to be a dark green and there are Brugmansias with variegated foliage.

The trumpet shaped flowers of Brugmansia typically dangle downward although some face out horizontally. They can be a foot long, sometimes longer.  Brugmansia flowers come in a wide range of colors from white to peach, rose, pink, lavender orange and recently red. They often change color as they age. There are many double flowered Brugmansia varieties.

Brugmansia flowers are not self – fertile and they do not come true from seed.  When breeders find a Brugmansia plant they like they propagate it by cuttings.   Brugmansia seed pods look like a bean pod with a corky covering in some species.  Brugmansia seed rarely survives a cold winter, so it seldom spreads on its own.

Culture of Brugmansia

Brugmansia are usually purchased as rooted cuttings.  Most catalogs show large plants loaded with beautiful flowers but be aware that it can take two years for that little potted plant to get to blooming size and many years before it makes a large plant.  Some plants started indoors early will flower the first year.

Brugmansia are generally kept as tub plants and overwintered inside.  Temperatures must be kept above 40 degrees F.  In zone 8 and above they can be planted directly in the garden.  (Some zone 7 gardeners have had success overwintering Brugmansia outside.  The plants die to the ground and then are heavily mulched.)

For tub plants use a non-soil potting medium and do not plant the cutting in too large of a pot, let it nearly fill the pot with roots, then transplant to a larger pot.  Indoors the plants should be in as bright of light as possible, preferably a greenhouse or sun room.  Watering should be reduced if the leaves drop, as many plants shed leaves indoors.  If the light level is too low or the room cool some plants will go semi-dormant.  Some people actually prefer to let plants go semi-dormant for the winter.

Plants are moved outside after all danger of frost has passed and the nights are reliably warm.  Brugmansia prefers a dappled or partly shaded area when outdoors.  They will quickly respond to bright warm conditions and grow larger each year.

Brugmansia likes moist, well drained potting medium and should be fertilized with a dilute flower fertilizer every other watering or have a slow release flowering plant fertilizer worked into the planting medium.  Evenly watered, well fertilized plants in warm conditions and good light usually bloom almost continually once they start blooming.

Toxicity of Brugmansia

All parts of the Brugmansia are extremely poisonous.  Brugmansia contains 3 poisons, atropine, scopolamine and hyoscyamine.  Indigenous peoples used the plants various parts in religious and divination ceremonies.   The plant parts often cause hallucinogenic symptoms or loss of conscious control of the body.  They can also cause respiratory failure or heart problems.

Any person or animal that has ingested any amount of Brugmansia should be immediately taken to a hospital.   A drug called physostigmine can counter the effects of Brugmansia poisoning if given promptly.  Cardiac and respiratory support may be needed and the stomach will be pumped.  The patient may need restraints to prevent harm to him/her self.

Despite being poisonous, brugmansia are wonderful tropical plants that deserve a place on the porch or patio of the adult plant lover.


Fall Grass Planting

Not everyone is a “lawn” person.  But if you like a nice lawn fall is an excellent time to plant grass seed or lay sod for a new or improved lawn.  Grass germinates and grows well in the cooler, wetter fall weather.  Grass needs about 6 weeks to grow before the ground freezes, but can survive frost and light snow without a problem.   In zones 5-6 that means you can plant grass seed or lay sod from early September to mid- October.

New Lawn

If you want to totally renovate your lawn or you are starting a new lawn you will need to do some basic prep work.  If you are working with subsoil left after new construction you’ll need to purchase some topsoil.   About 6 inches of topsoil would be ideal but don’t use less than 3 inches.  Smooth the topsoil down evenly over your subsoil and try to avoid making hollows or raised areas.  Make sure any debris left from construction is removed.

If the area you are going to seed or sod is hard packed soil, till the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, even if you intend to put down topsoil.  You can work topsoil, compost or peat into the existing soil but do not mix sand into clay soil hoping to improve it.  Instead you will create cement.

If you are going to totally renovate a lawn and there is existing vegetation in place you are going to need to remove it.  The easiest way is to do this is to use glyposphate (one brand name is Round-Up®) according to label directions.  Wait about a week and rake off the dead vegetation.  Then till the soil to about 8 inches deep, rake and smooth.  If you used the glyphosphate properly you should be able to seed within a week.

If you are a non-chemical person you will need to remove the old grass and weeds with a shovel and some sweat labor. Using a slicing motion under the grass roots and lifting off chunks of old sod is a good method.  Some deep rooted weeds will need to be dug out.   All this discarded vegetation can go in the compost pile.

Spot Renovation

Sometimes only parts of the lawn need repair.  Remove any weed patches with glyphosphate or your shovel.  Fill holes and level high or low spots then till the soil in the bare areas, rake and smooth.  You may have to till small areas by hand.

Seeding

In the north the best grass seed to use for mostly sunny areas is some variety of Kentucky Bluegrass.  If the area you intend to seed is shady a mixture of various Fescue grass varieties would be better.  Don’t use a seed mixture with a high percentage of annual or perennial rye in it.  This will green up fast and is cheap, but the annual rye won’t be back next spring and the perennial rye will look coarse and unattractive. 

Spread the seed evenly over the ground and don’t skimp. The package will tell you how much square footage it will cover.  Measure your lawn and figure the square footage before shopping for seed so that you will know the proper amount to buy.  If you have a large area to seed you may want to use a spreader.

Seed may be rolled with a light weight roller to get it in contact with the soil, or just lightly covered with topsoil or mulch.  In small renovation spots you can lightly rake seed into the soil. If you experience a lot of heavy rain in the fall that could wash seed away, you may want to apply a mulch of straw or other organic material, especially on a slope. 

Laying Sod

Almost all sod sold in northern states will be Kentucky Bluegrass and sod works best on sunny lawns.  In some cases you can do the prep work to save money and have professionals lay the sod.   Some people may want to do all the work to save money.  Keep sod in the shade and moist while you are waiting to lay it and try to lay it the same day you purchase it. 

Carry sod rolls carefully to the new lawn site and unroll them where they are to lay, with the green side up of course. Butt the edges of the sod rolls together as closely as you can but do not overlap the edges.  Sod is generally rolled with a lawn roller after it’s laid to get it in contact with the soil.  You can cut sod with a sharp shovel or knife and fit pieces into odd shaped areas. Sod does not require mulch.


Care of new lawns

After planting your grass seed you will need to water it if fall doesn’t give you rain or snow.  Until it is up and growing the soil surface should remain moist.  That could mean watering every day.  After the grass is up and growing it needs at least an inch of moisture a week.  In sandy soil that drains quickly, 2 inches may be better.  

Sod will need watering daily also if it is warm and dry.  You can cut back watering to an inch a week in two or three applications after the first two weeks if the weather is cool.

Do not fertilize new seedlings or new sod this fall, wait until spring.  If the lawn grows more than 3 inches before winter you can cut it back to 3 inches, otherwise do not mow until spring.  While it’s better to mulch tree leaves into an established lawn, keep fall leaves off new lawns by gentle raking so new seedlings won’t be smothered or sod dislodged by mulching mowers.

Don’t let your kids explore with their mouth

I was at a MG booth at our county fair many years ago when a man approached with a tow headed boy whose head just came to the top of the table. 

“I’d like to know if these red berries I see along the road are safe to eat”  he said.

“Okay”, I replied, “Do you have a sample?”

“Naw,” he said, “didn’t bring one.  They’re little red berries.  I had him eat some”, he said nudging the boy, “and he didn’t get sick or nothing.  I want to know if I can make wine with them.”

The man then went on and explained that he didn’t allow the boy to drink pop or milk because those weren’t safe.  His family only drank cider, beer and wine he made himself.  Even the kids.

We had a discussion about the berries where I determined they weren’t raspberries from his description, but I wasn’t sure what they could be- maybe elderberries or pokeberries.  I urged him to bring me a sample into the office the next day.  I then warned him about allowing his kids to taste things that he didn’t recognize as safe.  He shrugged:
“Kids always explore with their mouths, ain’t hurt none of them yet.”

He never appeared with a sample at the office. Hopefully he changed his mind about making wine from unknown berries.  For a person who mistrusted the safety of pop and milk for his kids he sure didn’t seem to care if they died from some berry plucked from along the road.

Please don’t encourage your kids to taste things they find outside.  Far too often adults encourage kids to taste things they pluck from around them without explaining to the kids that they know the plant well and giving them a lesson on how to identify the plant again.  We are not talking about the garden, where you allow a child to pick a ripe tomato or eat a tiny carrot.  We are talking about hiking and camping and going on walks to the neighboring woods.  Some people are eager to share information about edible wild plants but there’s a certain danger when children don’t quite understand how to identify safe and unsafe plants. 

Children should be warned never to eat something that they aren’t absolutely sure they know the identity of and to ask an adult if it’s ok first.  Some kids still roam unattended outside and they do sometimes explore with their mouth, especially if they see adults doing it.  There are some plants that a child could come upon that could have serious or fatal consequences.

It’s wonderful to teach your child about survival foods, edible wild plants, medicinal plants and the like if you yourself are sure you can identify those plants and you stress to the child not to experiment with things they aren’t sure they can identify. Remind them that birds and other animals may eat things that humans cannot eat safely.  And this includes plants in the yard and along the roads.  Here’s another cautionary tale.

I had a woman appear at my office with a paper towel full of mushrooms, frantic for my help.  I had a rule that I didn’t identify mushrooms as safe to eat or not to homeowners because identification of mushrooms can be tricky and the consequences of a mistake deadly.  I referred them to MSU’s plant lab if they really needed to know, which was not the instant answer they often wanted.  But when I heard this woman’s story I quickly took a look at the mushrooms and decided to help. 

The woman and her husband frequently hunted wild mushrooms such as morels, and cooked them at home.  The children liked the mushrooms and heard how much the parents valued them.  They decided to do some mushroom hunting of their own.

For about 2 weeks the boys had been fine at bedtime but woke up at night several times a week with severe stomach pains and vomiting. By morning they felt fine. They had been taken to a doctor who thought they might have a stomach virus.  But one night the father dragged a bedspread outside that had been vomited on. In the morning as the woman was picking it up to clean she noticed pieces of mushrooms in the mess and knew the boys hadn’t recently been served mushrooms with their meals.

She woke up the eldest boy and questioned him.  He explained that he and his brother hunted mushrooms in the yard while they played after they came home from daycare each day.  He led his mother around the yard and showed her several mushroom patches they had sampled, even telling her which ones tasted good and which didn’t.  And here she was with a towel full of mushrooms asking me to help her ID them. (Fresh samples)  She had called her doctor first, and he told her to get them identified.  The boys were as usual feeling fine that morning so the doctor wasn’t overly concerned.
Keep children from tasting mushrooms

When I took a look at the mushrooms, I was immediately concerned.  I knew mushroom identification wasn’t my strong suit, but some of the mushrooms in the collection sure looked like deadly amanita species to me.  Amanita mushrooms don’t cause symptoms immediately after you eat them, the problems come several hours later.  Then after a few hours the symptoms often disappear.  But all is not well; the poison in the mushrooms is affecting the liver and kidneys silently.

I took a picture of the mushrooms and emailed it to a mycologist (mushroom specialist) at MSU after calling and explaining the situation. In a short time a state trooper was dispatched to bring the samples to MSU and our worst fears were confirmed- the boys had consumed amanita mushrooms, probably on several occasions.  The boy’s doctor was notified and the boys were sent for testing and treatment that probably saved their lives. 

I tell this story because I hear and read so many stories about people introducing their kids to wild foods and then having similar problems occur. And even when you don’t point out things for kids to taste they get curious and try things on their own.  A child doesn’t have to go far to find something poisonous to taste.  Our yards are full of plants that can cause problems.  In the sidebar to this blog is a page with poisonous plant articles.  In one article there is a list of common garden plants that can cause problems.  If you have children and pets it’s a good idea to read it. 

You probably won’t need or want to exclude every plant with toxic qualities from the landscape.   If you did you’d have few plant choices left.  But you may want to exclude some of the most poisonous or things that have tempting fruits or berries.  

You know your child better than anyone else.  When children reach the age of 5 or 6 they can generally be trusted not to eat things they find outside, especially if you have explained some things may be dangerous.  (If there’s a certain plant you want them to avoid just tell them it will make them throw up and have diarrhea.  Most kids want to avoid that at all costs.)   But some children have learning disabilities, behavior problems or are just too ornery or too curious for their own good.   And kids do things on dares or are bullied into doing things they don’t want to do.  Pets are a whole different scenario- telling them they might vomit usually doesn’t work.

Now I am not suggesting that no one should introduce their children to wild foods and tasty weeds.  It’s wonderful to teach children about these things.  But you must be very, very careful to stress that they don’t experiment on their own.   And set a good example.  Don’t taste plants you can’t identify.  Don’t make up batches of medicinal teas or tonics for children unless you are an experienced herbalist.  Children’s bodies may not tolerate the doses adult bodies can handle.

So let’s go on to another topic in a similar vein. 

Is Pokeweed poisonous?  (This week’s weed)

Pokeweed (Phytolacca Americana), is an interesting plant because it is sometimes eaten and very poisonous.  It is a native North American plant with ornamental qualities and a role in natural ecosystems.  It can be found both in gardens and along roadsides and in fields.  Some other common names for the plant include Ink Plant, Pokeberry and American Cancer root.

Pokeweed
Recently there have been many social media mentions of pokeweed as a treatment for arthritis and cancer, among other things.  These may have been uses for the plant in previous times but modern research has found no benefit in controlled trials.  Old folk remedies sometimes worked, but a great many did not.  There was no way to tell in earlier times if the victim died from the disease or its supposed cure. Or if he or she recovered that it was in spite of the cure administered instead of because of it.  

Most reputable herbalists and all medical sources classify pokeweed as harmful/poisonous.  There are a number of chemicals produced by the plant that are toxic.  You can get the full list of those here: https://www.drugs.com/npp/pokeweed.html    
The American Association of Poison Control Centers lists Pokeweed in the top 5 list of poisonings caused by plants.

If a plant can cure something it has to be toxic on some level and a cure versus death by poisoning often depends on a very fine line of dosage strength or method of administering a dose.  Even aspirin can kill or cause severe injury if you take too much.  It’s too fine of a line in the case of pokeweed.  In research chemicals are often isolated from the whole plant in order to try and remove dangerous chemicals from those that might be helpful.  And in the case of pokeweed even that process has been fraught with problems, most compounds that even showed promise proved too toxic to be safely used.

Some people claim the ripe berries are not harmful if cooked.  That claim has generally been discredited with several poisonings reported from pies made with the berries.  It has been claimed that an adult can eat 10 uncooked berries without harm, but that report never says what happens when you eat the 11th berry.  CDC and poison control centers have several documented cases where children were poisoned with just a few berries.  There are undoubtedly many cases of mild poisoning that have occurred without being reported.

The roots and mature leaves and stems of pokeweed are extremely poisonous.  Powdered concoctions of these are used as herbal remedies but without extreme care these can have serious or fatal consequences.  Even handling mature plants and getting plant sap on the skin can cause poisoning.

And while poke salad is a southern tradition there’s evidence that even that practice has risks.  People desperate for something to eat in early spring learned that if you boiled the young leaves of pokeweed for 5 minutes, then poured off the water rinsed the leaves, and then boiled them again for 5 minutes you could eat the slimy mess.  That tradition still has its followers, even though safer greens are now usually available.

For this “salad” practice to be safe the leaves have to be picked very young, before they have picked up a reddish tinge.  All parts of the pokeweed plant are poisonous; the poison is just less concentrated in young leaves.   If done incorrectly or the plants gathered are unusually toxic due to weather or soil conditions problems can result.  One such poisoning was documented by the FDA.  (http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/plantox/detail.cfm?id=4830)

In this case a day camp in New Jersey decided to cook some pokeweed for campers to sample.  They followed the boil, rinse and re-boil practice.  Between 30 minutes and 5 hours after eating the pokeweed 20 of the 46 people who tasted the pokeweed became ill, 18 had to be treated in emergency rooms and 4 were hospitalized.  Most of the ill people had eaten more than a teaspoon of the poke weed and those who didn’t become ill had barely tasted it.  The CDC did extensive workups on all the food served to exclude other causes of illness.

What happens in pokeweed poisoning?

When raw plant parts are ingested there is generally a burning sensation in the mouth. That’s a warning not to eat more. Usually mild poisoning results in vomiting, stomach cramps and diarrhea.  Since in earlier times purges were considered to be good for the body people experiencing these symptoms might not classify it as poisoning, just a good spring purge.

But larger doses of the various toxins in pokeweed result in severe projectile vomiting, profuse bloody diarrhea, severe dehydration, excruciating pain in the stomach, weakness, severe headache, muscle spasms, convulsions, rapid heartbeat, low blood pressure, and difficulty in breathing or respiratory failure.  Pregnant women may abort, poisoning causes uterine contractions and bleeding.   It is also thought that pregnant woman who survive may have babies with deformities or medical issues.

Pokeweed poisoning can cause death.  Postmortem findings have included gross lesions caused by severe gastroenteritis; congestion of internal organs; histological lesions, and stomach ulcerations with hemorrhage.  If one suspects pokeweed poisoning medical attention should be immediately sought.  This is especially important in the case of children.

Pokeweed is not a plant for home herbalists to experiment with.  There are many safer herbs and medicinal plants.  There has never been any scientific evidence that pokeweed used as an herbal remedy has cured anything.

Facts about the plant

Pokeweed becomes a large plant, up to 6 feet high, with thick, sturdy reddish stems.  It is a perennial plant that dies to the ground each year and forms progressively larger clumps when it returns.  The leaves are thick, long and oval in shape, larger at the base of the plant, and arranged alternately on the stems.  New spring leaves have red veins and may be tinged with red.  The plant has a big, thick taproot.  The impressive size and color of the stems convince many gardeners to plant it for visual interest.

In the north Poke begins blooming in July.  The small greenish-white flowers are on long spikes at the top and sometimes on smaller side shoots of the plant.  Each flower turns into a green berry that ripens to purple black.  The juice of the Pokeberries is a deep red.  It will stain hands and clothing and was used by early settlers in place of ink. The plants prefer rich soil and grow in full sun or partial shade.

Birds love the berries and spread the seeds far and wide, making purple stains as they go.  As a native plant pokeweed has a place in nature, but gardeners should make an educated decision as to whether they are a candidate for their garden.  Once the plant is in the garden it is often an aggressive spreader.

All parts of the plant are considered poisonous.   The plant juices can be absorbed by the skin and are poisonous.  Wear gloves when handling plants.  Berries are attractive and care should be taken that children don’t eat them.  The plants are poisonous to pets and livestock also, with the exception of berries eaten by birds.

In conclusion pokeweed is a poisonous plant.  Research has confirmed that and a wise person would disregard anecdotal stories about miracle cures and avoid herbal remedies made with it.  People have been eating poke salad for centuries and if that’s your thing, just be really careful how you cook your greens.  Pokeweed shouldn’t be eliminated from all places.  If we did that with all poisonous plants we’d have few natives left.  If you want it in your garden because it’s pretty and you understand its dangers, go for it. 

Freezer Coleslaw

Do you need a way to preserve some of that cabbage growing in your garden?  In my grandfather’s day the whole plant was pulled up and hung by the root in a root cellar.  This actually will keep cabbage edible for a couple of months.  However few of us have root cellars anymore and warm homes don’t always keep cabbage nicely.  You can ferment the cabbage into sauerkraut but not everyone likes it, and it can be a trick to get conditions right to get a good batch.  Cabbage doesn’t normally freeze well so when I tried this recipe I found in an old book I was pleasantly surprised to find it actually stayed crispy.

This recipe is not only crunchy but has a nice sweet-tart flavor that will complement many meals.  It’s a great way to quickly and easily preserve some of that excess cabbage from the garden.  The cabbage will turn translucent like sauerkraut but stays crisp and has a different flavor. Here’s the recipe.

1 medium cabbage, shredded, chopped or sliced
1 carrot, grated, chopped or julienned
1 green pepper, diced
1 sweet onion, diced
1 cup white vinegar
¼ cup water
1 ½ cups sugar  (Do not use artificial sweeteners)
1 teaspoon celery seed
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon canning salt

Wash and prepare the cabbage and carrot as you like them for coleslaw.  Dice the onion and pepper.
In a large bowl toss the cabbage and salt together.  It seems like a little salt for a lot of cabbage but it will work.  Let the cabbage sit 1 hour.

Put the vinegar, sugar, water, mustard and celery seed in a pan and bring the mixture to a boil.  Boil for 1 minute stirring.  Let cool to room temperature.

After an hour pour any moisture formed off the cabbage.  Squeeze the cabbage a bit to get out any excess moisture  and drain off.  Add the onions and pepper and mix well. 

Pour the cooled syrup mix over the cabbage and mix well.  Divide into freezer bags or containers in the portions that best suit your serving needs.  The recipe will make about 4 pint sized containers.

Freeze the coleslaw.  After 2 or 3 days you can try a batch.  Defrost for 8 hours in the refrigerator before serving.  Keep leftovers refrigerated.

Other ways to preserve cabbage
If you have just the right storage conditions, like the root cellar mentioned above, cabbage can be stored whole for 2-3 months.  Leave the outer leaves and root on.  Hang in a cool 32-40 degree spot that has high humidity, 70-80%.    Keep it away from other vegetables or they may taste like cabbage.  Cabbage tastes stronger after storage.

Cabbage can be sliced thin and dried in a food dehydrator but then must be stored in the refrigerator for best keeping and flavor. It is used in cooking.  Cabbage can also be sliced, blanched in boiling water for 2 minutes, dipped in ice water to cool, drained and frozen.  This cabbage will be soggy when thawed and is used for cooking only.
When you bring a cabbage in from the garden and use part of it wrap the remainder tightly in plastic wrap and store in the crisper of the refrigerator.  You may want to place it in another ziplock type bag because it can give its flavor and smell to other vegetables.

The April 26, 2016 blog has an article on growing cabbage.

Don’t delay, buy tulips today!
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

For Sale:  I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this spring $10 each without cage, $20 for bird with small, new cage of assorted colors.  They are not hand fed.  Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow) and shades of pale green, olive green, and sea green.  Some I can sex now, others are a guess.  You’ll need to bring your own cage if you don’t purchase one.  Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of fun to watch.  Call at 989-761-7609.

Also for sale Muscovy ducklings, black laced, about 3 months old, fine to be without mom but you must buy at least 2, unless you have other ducks.  $5 each. Call the number above.  Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks.  They do not quack- and are very quiet.

Mary Lou Lafond has a huge, 5 feet +,  Norfolk Island Pine to give away.  You must move it.  Norfolk Pines are indoor plants, must be inside before frost.  For more info contact her at  marylafond@frontier.com




Native Shrubs & Trees- Thursday, Sep 8, 2016 6:30-8:30pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

Come discover the usefulness of native woody plants in the landscape. Gardeners wishing to include more natives in their plantings have lots of beautiful options. Natives look good, often require less care, and can be more beneficial to native insects and other creatures than are non-native ornamentals. A component of this class will be a walk around the Tollgate grounds to view some of the plants discussed in the lecture. Mary Wilson has been an MSU Horticulture Educator for 30 years with a focus on environmental horticulture. $25.  For more information   http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.


Southeast Michigan Dahlia Show, Sep 10 – 11, 2016 Orchard Mall, 6337 Orchard Lake Rd, West Bloomfield Township, MI

See hundreds of dahlias on exhibit during the hours the mall is open presented by the Southeast Michigan Dahlia Society. Free.  For more information: judy892@wowway.com.

New- 13th Annual Fall Into Spring 2016 - October 1, 2016, 8 am – 3 pm. Mott Community College Event Center, 1401 E. Court Street, Flint MI

Master Gardener Association Genesee County presents:
- A wonderful way to experience tips and ideas to create a beautiful garden for next year. A fun-filled and inspirational event full of ideas and guidelines to benefit any gardener -- from basic to the most experienced.

**Early Registration is $65.00 by Friday, September 23, 2016.
Registration AFTER Friday, September 23, 2016 will be $70.00**

Registration form is at this link: http://fallintospring.weebly.com/

The Speakers:
Janet Macunivich Professional gardener. garden designer, educator, author, columnist for Garden A to Z. Her topic: “Low Maintenance Gardening.”

Jan Burns, Owner, Burns Botanicals, Oxford, MI, will teach us the many ways we can grow anduse garden herbs in “Herbs: How to Grow and Harvest”

Jan Bills, Owner/operator Two Women and a HoeTM. Her topic“Dirty Little Secrets”gives us insight into practical gardening secrets that will make us love, not labor over our gardens.

George Papadelis, Owner, Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy, author & educator. George will give us a sneak peek at the new annuals and perennials for 2017.

The Garden Market: Shop our market of vendors who offer for sale many hand-made or one-of-a-kind items, including garden stones, garden art, herbal products, unique gardening supplies & more! *Note: Some vendors take only cash or checks.

Make checks payable to: MGAGCM
Mail registration to:
Genesee County Master Gardeners
Fall Into Spring Conference
P.O. Box 34
Flushing, MI 48433

Questions? Call or email Loretta (810) 344-7383 ldellwood@aol.com



Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter/blog information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly note if you email me. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If you are on my mailing list and at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


Tuesday, August 23, 2016

August , 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter


 © Kim Willis - no parts of this newsletter may be used without permission.


Hi Gardeners
Joe Pye weed along the road

It’s a beautiful summer day here- how many times have I said that on a Tuesday?  It’s rare.  I love this weather.  I have been able to do some weeding.  The garden is producing well and I am thinking about planting some fall veggies. We had some nice onions this year.  I planted a mixture of plants, unnamed but they seem to be good varieties.  We had a small cantaloupe and a tiny melon ripen.  The melon was perfectly ripe and sweet but there was only a tablespoon of “flesh” from either half.

My brugmansia is loaded with flowers- I counted 20 some buds, with about 7 open today.  The tropical hibiscus are also blooming nicely and growing like crazy.  It’s hard to imagine that I will have to bring them inside in just a few weeks.  I am hoping for a long frost free fall because my tall dahlias still haven’t bloomed.  The woodland nicotiana is finally having a growth spurt and if I am lucky it will bloom before frost too.

Autumn sedums and mums are starting to open.  Goldenrod is blooming.  You can sense fall in the wildflowers growing along the roads, queen anne’s lace, chicory, boneset, joe pye weed, and the asters are beginning to bloom.  It’s time to gather flowers and seed heads for drying.

With the garden work starting to wind down and me getting the attitude of “I’m finished with tinkering with gardens” for the season, (that will change I’m sure),  I have more time for walks, and nature observation. I noticed 3 hummingbirds at one feeder at the same time- a rare occurrence as they are usually fighting.  I am certain they must be babies from the same clutch.  And I found my red turkey has a clutch of eggs out in the field she has started sitting on.

I hope that your late summer days are going well too and you have time for fun before winter.

Should you have a fall vegetable garden?

It’s August and in the northern states it’s time to decide if you want a fall vegetable garden.  Yes- a vegetable garden that you plant in the fall, some people do that.  You need to decide soon because there isn’t that many days left in our growing season.  But do you really want and need a fall vegetable garden?

Let’s take some time to discuss the pros and cons of fall vegetable gardens so you can make informed decisions.

The cons of fall vegetable gardens

For a lot of gardeners August is a miserable time to work in the garden.  It’s hot and full of mosquitoes and the beach is calling your name.  If you have a hard time keeping the garden weeded or even collecting your gardens harvest, you probably aren’t keen to start a new garden.   Many people are going nuts trying to preserve the harvest they are reaping from their spring garden.  And that’s all right; you don’t need to feel guilty.  As you finishing harvesting parts of your garden weed them, pile compost and manure on them and let them rest. 

Some people plant a cover crop on unused garden beds but if you are going to that trouble you might as well grow something you can eat such as kale or beets.  And then you have basically decided to have a fall garden.  There might not be a harvest to worry about but cover crops will need to be mowed or killed before winter and that takes work too.

You’ll need space for your fall vegetable garden.  If you have empty beds you are all set.  But waiting for a crop to be finished so that you can use the space for a fall garden may take longer than you planned.  And tilling up new areas probably is more work than you want to do in August.

Fall vegetable gardens are always a gamble anyway.  An early hard frost hits and you have done a lot of work for nothing.  Cool and rainy fall weather won’t make some crops happy.    It’s often hard to find seeds this time of year to sow fall crops and starter plants are even scarcer. If it all seems like too much work to you then it probably is.  Go on, wrap it up for the season and rest with your garden soil.

The pros of fall vegetable gardens


Some people however may not have had time to plant a garden in the spring or for some reason their spring garden was ruined.  These people may feel that their gardening urges are unfulfilled and are ready and eager to plant a vegetable garden in the fall.  Or you may be worried that you don’t have enough fresh produce for the winter and want to add to your stores.  And you may just be bored and want to escape from household duties or your spouse for a few more weeks.  For you folks a fall vegetable garden makes sense.

Not every vegetable crop is suitable for a fall crop.  Some won’t produce fruit if the daylight is getting shorter as it does in the fall.  Some crops won’t have time to mature before a hard frost kills them.  A good tip to keep in mind is to use day neutral varieties, (which means the length of daylight doesn’t affect them), and use varieties that have the shortest days to maturity.

In planting zones 5 and 6 you will probably have 8-10 weeks before a hard frost if you plant in early August.  Some crops don’t mind a light frost and some can be protected with row covers before light frost.   Crops that can be planted with a reasonable expectation of success include leafy greens of many types, kale, cabbage (early maturing varieties and started as plants), beets, turnips, radishes, carrots, green onions, peas, bush beans ( early maturing varieties and you may need row cover), broccoli and cauliflower- (early varieties). 

Remember that seeds sown in hot August weather may need daily watering to get them to germinate.   Before you plant you should add some vegetable garden fertilizer to the bed, especially if it was already used this spring.  Don’t plant a crop in a bed that the same crop grew in in the spring or you are asking for disease and insect problems.

An alternative to a fall vegetable garden in the ground might be a few containers of things like salad greens and scallions.  Then you can get the regular garden cleaned up and covered in compost and manure, while still munching fresh produce.  And containers are easier to cover when frost threatens or you may be able to move them inside a garage or shed for the night.

So the decision rests on you.  You can harvest your crops, add manure and compost and head off to the family cabin.  Or you can get out there and start a whole new garden.  Which will it be?

Preserving plums

Plums used to be eaten far more often than they are today.  Stewed plums, canned plums and prunes (dried plums) were dietary staples.  Try looking for canned plums in your grocery today.  You probably won’t find them.   But plums are a delicious and healthy fruit that should be included in our diets.  Michigan is second in the nation in the production of plums. The 2010 the Michigan plum crop was 1,800 tons and had a wholesale value of a billion dollars.  Not only can we eat a wide variety of fresh plums in season but there are plenty of plums for canning and drying.


Plums come into markets in late summer, about the same time as peaches.  There are a variety of plum colors from yellow to deep purple- black.  The top plum varieties are Stanley and Damson, both are great for canning or preserves.  Plums are egg shaped generally, although there are some more rounded varieties.  They have a thin skin, juicy flesh and a small pit.  They are packed with phyto-nutrients, potassium and vitamin C and as many people know, plums have a nice regulatory effect on the bowels.

Plums are best canned or dried for winter use.  They don’t survive freezing very well.  They also make excellent juice, jellies and preserves.  You can use fresh plums in place of peaches in recipes for a delicious new taste.

Choose plums that are plump, slightly firm and completely ripe. Avoid plums with soft spots.  Plums do not ripen after picking but taste better if allowed to sit for a day after picking.  They will store in the refrigerator for several days.   Some plums are better for specific uses such as drying or fresh eating.  Like peaches some plums separate from their pits easier than others. They are called freestone varieties and are best to use if you will be halving or pitting plums for canning, although many plums are canned whole with pits.

Canning plums

For every quart of plums you want to can you will need about 2 ½ pounds of plums.  Wash plums well.  If you want pitted plums half the plum and remove the pit.   If you are going to can the plums whole prick the skin of each plum with a toothpick in several places.  This is to keep them from splitting during canning, which makes the product look less appealing.

Pack the plums into hot clean jars to within a 1/2 inch from the rims.  Pour boiling water or syrup (2 ½ cups of sugar to a quart of water, bring to boiling) over the plums to a 1/2 inch from the rim. Run a knife or “bubble stick” around the jar sides and around plums to remove bubbles.  Add more liquid if needed.  Wipe the rim, add lid and screw band.  Process in a water bath canner for 25 minutes.

Plum Preserves

Preserves are like jelly, but with pieces of fruit in it.  Plum preserves are excellent on a toasted English muffin or even poured on ice cream.

Sterilize 5 half pint jars.  Keep them covered in hot water until used.  Combine 5 cups of chopped plums with 4 cups of sugar and 1 cup of water in a large pot.  Bring to a boil and cook, stirring frequently until the mixture thickens, about 15 minutes.  Drain jars, pour hot preserves into jars to within a 1/4 inch from the top.  Wipe the rim; add lids and screw bands and process in a water bath canner for 5 minutes.

Alternately you can make preserves as above but instead of using caning jars use freezer containers and freeze the preserves until used.   Store opened jars or containers in the refrigerator.

Drying Plums

If you have a dehydrator plums can be dehydrated to make prunes.  Plums should be pitted or cut in half before drying.  Rinse plums in very hot water and pat dry.  Then place the plums on the trays according to your dehydrator instructions.  It will take 24-36 hours to dry plums.

To prolong shelf life and make the color better plums can be soaked in a solution of 1 ½ teaspoons sodium bisulfite per quart of water for 15 minutes prior to drying.  Plums should be halved for this.  Find the sodium bisufite with canning supplies, wine making supplies or at a drugstore.  Make sure it is food grade.  Caution- some people are allergic to sulfite treated fruit.

Plums can be dipped in a honey solution prior to drying and they will taste more like store prunes, which are often sweetened.  Bring a 1/2 cup of sugar and 1-1/2 cups of water to boiling, turn off heat and stir in 1/2 cup of honey.  Let it cool to lukewarm, and then soak plums in it for 5 minutes, let them drain and proceed with drying.

If you are privileged to have easy access to plums during the fresh season  take advantage of our agricultural diversity by finding ways to use fresh plums in your menu and by making preserves or canning plums for winter treats. 

One woman’s weed is another woman’s flower (or man’s)

I enjoy being part of several facebook sites that feature plants of one sort or another.  Some of the things that can quickly bring on an argument is whether to call something a weed, or when someone calls a native plant invasive, or says a plant is aggressive and shouldn’t be planted when others find it absolutely lovely.   It just goes to show you that everyone has slightly different ideas about what plants are valuable and what aren’t.  Gardens are truly individual and gardeners have all kinds of tastes.
Is lamium a weed?

Last week I asked people on several garden sites to list plants they found to be a problem as far as spreading aggressively in their gardens, whether they are native or non-native.  I got a lot of answers.  (These were not plants out in natural areas but in gardens.)  It’s quite obvious that both native and non-native plants can cause headaches in the garden.

Here’s a compiled list of plants gardeners thought to be aggressive spreaders and that can become a problem as reported by responders.  I won’t label them weeds because that always brings on impassioned conversation.  These plants were listed by gardeners from many places in the US but there seemed to be a concentration of responses from zone 5-6 gardeners.

Amaranth, Bee balm, Black eyed Susan(rudbeckia), bell flower, bindweed, (all species called by that name) blue vervain, boneset, burdock, burning bush, Canada ginger, catnip, cheese mallow,cleome, clover-(various),comfrey, coneflower, Coreopsis, crabgrass, daylily, (common “ditch”), evening primrose, garlic chives, geranium(hardy), goatsbeard, gooseneck Loosestrife,  ground ivy (Creeping Charlie), dead nettle, hops, iris, Jerusalem artichoke, jewel weed, Joe Pye weed, lambs quarters, Lily of the Valley, lamium, lemon balm, lobelia (blue),milkweed, mint (all kinds), morning glories, nutsedge, oat grass, obedient plant, orange oriental poppy, Ostrich ferns, phlox(common garden), plantain, prickly lettuce, plumbago, Rose of Sharon, sedum- (Angelina, creeping), sneeze weed (helenium), tansy, trumpet vine, turtlehead(chelone), Virginia creeper, violets, yellow wood sorrel, woody (white) aster, woody nightshade.
Should you encourage milkweed?

As you can see some of these are sold in garden stores and some people reading are shaking their heads when they notice a favorite of theirs listed.  When a plant becomes an aggressive spreader, (we can’t use the term invasive unless it’s non-native according to the plant police) is determined by the place it finds itself in and the care it or the surrounding plants get. Some seemingly fine garden plants become some gardeners arch nemesis while others wish they could grow them.

Surprisingly no one mentioned dandelions, although almost every gardener has them. Ragweed wasn’t mentioned.  And most of the most hated by native plant purists are not here. Not one person mentioned Japanese knotweed, Autumn Olive, Dames Rocket, or garlic mustard. 

Ok with that said lets go on to another related subject.

When native gardening becomes ugly

Maplewood Missouri home- photo source unknown
There’s nothing wrong with gardening to help wildlife and nothing wrong with using native plants in the garden. Everyone should garden with an eye to helping birds and pollinators.  There’s nothing wrong in leaving a few “weeds” because they are favorites of wildlife.  But sometimes those who think they are creating a wildlife habitat or “natural area” are just creating a mess.  What seems to work in nature often turns ugly in a small suburban lot.

Ms Hezel's home in Maplewood Missouri  Photo from 40SouthNews
Take a look at these pictures. They are from a woman’s home in Maplewood Missouri who is being cited for weeds in the front yard. She is claiming the front yard is wildlife habitat, (which it probably is at least to rats, mice and mosquitoes), and should be allowed to stay.  The woman has been getting warned since 2012 about her yard and the city has had numerous complaints.   This year she got a ticket but is fighting it.

As you can see the front yard is quite small and the neighbors close.  This house is quite well cared for, and while we can’t see much of the neighborhood I imagine few yards look like this. And I can totally see why the neighbors and the municipality might not be happy with this yard because it is virtually indistinguishable from the yard of an abandoned house, except for the sign, which may be declaring it’s a wildlife habitat or something similar.  And the complaint also lists debris on the property, which we can’t see, including an old bathtub, refrigerator and air conditioner.

Now I have no doubt that the person who owns this home feels like they are providing a valuable oasis for wildlife in a sea of manicured lawns and concrete.   In fact that’s what she says it is and she tends to list all the important wildlife plants she has and says she tends the garden often. But you can make a place for wildlife and pollinators without it looking ugly; in fact with a little care you can have a space that is attractive to both people and wildlife.  It’s a fallacy that you have to just let things grow wild and only use native plants to have a wildlife and pollinator friendly yard.  Natural and informal is much different from weedy mess.

Let’s imagine what this yard could look like.  Let’s mentally strip it sown to bare ground and start over.  Going without a lawn in this sloped, tiny front yard should be quite easy.  Since the ground is sloped so steeply I’d keep taller plants to the sides of the lot, more like a frame and mounded medium sized plants to the center, low plants on the front edges so the house isn’t obscured.  That porch is an excellent place for hanging baskets and pots of colorful plants. A vine, maybe a passionfruit vine, could be trained up one of the porch pillars.  A trumpet vine, kept well pruned, would attract hummingbirds.

Spring bulbs, things like crocus, winter aconite, and species tulips provide early pollen and nectar for pollinators.  Plant them thickly along the sides of the stairs and along the sidewalk.  Add clumps of daffodils and tall tulips here and there for color in the yard.  Mix in some bloodroot, trilliums, trout lilies, primrose and hellebore. 

Use a coarse bark mulch between plants.  In the pictures the space between plants is filled with overgrown grass and weeds.  It’s hard to distinguish what is planted and what just appeared.

Since the foliage of bulbs needs to mature naturally and can look messy as the blooms fade plantings need to disguise the foliage.  I’d add bee balm, coreopsis, rudbeckia and Echinacea, all native plants and tending toward mounding shapes. (To be fair the woman says some of these plants are in this garden.) Some of the restrained smaller Joe Pye weeds, native and cultivated asters, garden mums, and hardy hibiscus will keep things blooming until late in the season. 

Along the wall above the sidewalk I’d add a spiller, such as trailing ornamental oregano, thyme or trailing rosemary and perhaps some annual trailers/spillers such as petunias or nasturtiums.  Trailing landscape roses are another option.

Want milkweed for monarchs?  Milkweed is fine for some species but diversity is the key even in small areas.  The garden pictured has a lot of common milkweed but little else. Plant some showy orange milkweed with common milkweed. Intersperse a few dill and fennel plants, host plants for other butterflies in the garden.  Anise hyssop and tall salvias are pollinator magnets. 

Lilies of various types are favorites of butterflies.  Plant some species lilies, tiger lilies or Asiatics in front, taller Orientals in back. A buddleia or two could be added. Garden phlox is loved by butterflies and there are some mildew resistant varieties that stay looking nice.

Pollinators love many annual species and things like zinnias, sunflowers, tithonia, cosmos and calendula are easy to grow from seed and keep the garden colorful.  Some of these also provide winter seeds for birds.

The object is to have a pretty as well as functional habitat for wildlife.  There should be some sense of organization even in an informal setting. Paths, even if small and mostly ornamental, help demonstrate planning. (Probably not in this garden though.) Groups of plants with similar shapes and colors helps form that impression as well as heights graduated from small to large and neat edges.  Color through the season is a goal.  And of course you will not be using pesticides on your wildlife habitat.

Not every native plant has a lot of value to wildlife.  And many non-native plants are quite valuable to wildlife and pollinators. In a small area you can’t have every plant that appeals to every type of wildlife or pollinator; you have to pick and choose so make your choices wisely.

When you are planting habitat and eliminating lawn in an urban or suburban setting plan on plenty of pruning, judicious weeding and lots of planting.  Remove plants when they die and cut back straggly looking non-blooming perennials.  You can’t just stop mowing and let things grow and call it wildlife habitat.  And before eliminating lawns and planting wildlife habitat in front yards you should check for any ordinances your municipality or neighborhood  association has.  If you choose to live in a specific area obey the laws or work to change them.

When I look at the woman’s yard in Missouri I don’t see a garden.  I don’t see well planned native habitat either.  I see a mess.  My hands itch to cut it down and tear most of it out.  And I am not known for having the neatest garden beds and I am pretty tolerant of weeds.  I see the point of providing plants for wildlife and strive to do so.  But I am sure that non-native plants and nice looking plants can be just as helpful as native ones. 

What do you see when you look at the pictures?   Would you change this or not?  If the owner likes it should she be allowed to do things her way or should the neighbors be considered?  Feel free to comment on the bottom of the blog or email me at kimwillis151@gmail.com



  
This week’s “weed”- Goldenrod- Solidago spps.

There are several types of Goldenrod that can be found in the northeast but the two most common are Gray Goldenrod, Solidago nemoralis, and Tall Goldenrod, Solidago altissima.  Both have the sprays of tiny gold flowers for which the plant is named.  Gray Goldenrod is shorter, the flower sprays are not as wide and arched as Tall Goldenrod and each long narrow leaf has two short leaves by it where it attaches to the stem.  Tall Goldenrod can grow to 5 feet high in good conditions and the flower spikes tend to from a pyramidal shape at the top of the plant.  Both plants have rough, stiff stems and the leaves and stems are slightly hairy.
Goldenrod

The sprays of gold are formed by hundreds of tiny yellow, daisy-like flowers which each have a nectar tube.  This nectar is an important food for butterflies fueling up to fly south and bees preparing for winter as is the abundant, heavy pollen.  Goldenrod begins blooming in late summer and blooms until a heavy frost. Goldenrod will grow almost anywhere, in sun and light shade, in moist or dry locations.  It’s a common roadside and field wildflower.

Since Goldenrod blooms at the same time as Ragweed, it is often thought to be the cause of seasonal allergies.  Ragweed, with its tiny, nondescript green flowers that release pollen into the wind is the culprit that causes seasonal allergies.  However, Goldenrod pollen is heavy and sticky and is carried by insects from plant to plant and is not blown in the wind.  It does not cause seasonal allergies and it’s safe to allow this beautiful plant to grow in your yard and flowerbeds.   

A European species of Goldenrod was once used in many herbal preparations.  American varieties of Goldenrod are used in many European gardens for fall color and selected and improved varieties are available.  It deserves more of a place in American gardens as it is very showy and makes a great cut flower.



Have you heard the cicadas singing?
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

For Sale:  I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this spring $10 each without cage, $20 for bird with small, new cage of assorted colors.  They are not hand fed.  Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow) and shades of pale green, olive green, and sea green.  Some I can sex now, others are a guess.  You’ll need to bring your own cage if you don’t purchase one.  Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of fun to watch.  Call at 989-761-7609.


Also for sale Muscovy ducklings, black laced, about 3 months old, fine to be without mom but you must buy at least 2, unless you have other ducks.  $5 each. Call the number above.  Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks.  They do not quack- and are very quiet.

Mary Lou Lafond has a huge, 5 feet +,  Norfolk Island Pine to give away.  You must move it.  Norfolk Pines are indoor plants, must be inside before frost.  For more info contact her at  marylafond@frontier.com




Native Shrubs & Trees- Thursday, Sep 8, 2016 6:30-8:30pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

Come discover the usefulness of native woody plants in the landscape. Gardeners wishing to include more natives in their plantings have lots of beautiful options. Natives look good, often require less care, and can be more beneficial to native insects and other creatures than are non-native ornamentals. A component of this class will be a walk around the Tollgate grounds to view some of the plants discussed in the lecture. Mary Wilson has been an MSU Horticulture Educator for 30 years with a focus on environmental horticulture. $25.  For more information   http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.

Basics of Honey Bees and Beekeeping, Thursday September 22, 6:30-8:30pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

Bees have been in the spotlight lately – for good reason. So many food crops depend on bees and other pollinators for production – including our vegetable gardens and fruit trees. Clay Ottoni will introduce us to the fascinating world of honey bees and beekeeping. We will also learn what we can grow in our yard to support and encourage these industrious insects. One lucky attendee will win a bottle of honey! In addition to being an attorney, beekeeper, and farmer, Clay is current president of SEMBA (Southeast Michigan Beekeepers Association) http://www.sembabees.org/ and a long time beekeeper. $25.  For more information   http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.

Southeast Michigan Dahlia Show, Sep 10 – 11, 2016 Orchard Mall, 6337 Orchard Lake Rd, West Bloomfield Township, MI

See hundreds of dahlias on exhibit during the hours the mall is open presented by the Southeast Michigan Dahlia Society. Free.  For more information: judy892@wowway.com.


Summer is here! Our days are longer and there is more hours of light to enjoy being outdoors. We welcome you to join us: experience nature and be inspired! Back Track To Nature will offer programs on two of Lapeer Land Conservancy properties. As well as at Three Roods Farm and the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary both located in Columbiaville, MI.

We offer environmental education programs for scouts, seniors, homeschoolers, garden clubs, youth groups, retreats, special interest groups and we will tailor programming to fit your specific needs.

Aldo Leopold Bench Building Workshop    1:30pm - 4:30pm, Saturday, August 27, 2016     Tibbits Nature Sanctuary

Reservations are needed for all programs listed. Please call or  email Karen at 810-969-1023 and pagekp@gmail.com  Directions to the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary and Riseman Refuge will be given at the time of registration. Thank you!



Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter/blog information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me or you can comment directly on the blog. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive a notification by email when a new blog is published have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com