Hi Gardeners
I was so glad to get
a good dose of rain last week. We got 1
and 8/10 inches of rain over the Thursday – Friday period. I hope you got some
good rain too. We are still behind about
3 inches in season rainfall however and I hope July helps us catch that
up. There’s a good chance for rain tomorrow.
Many gardens are hitting
their peak of color right now. My lilies
are so beautiful I am dreading it when they all finish blooming. I have lots of different types of lilies and I
will be buying a lot more for fall planting.
There are so many wonderful new hybrids.
Lilies are so easy to grow- you just plant the bulbs, usually in the
fall. If you do it right you can have
blooms June through August.
Some lilies take a
year or two in your garden to reach full potential but when they do it’s a beautiful
sight. I have found the true lilies are
rarely bothered by deer although they will eat day lilies avidly. Some lilies need stakes, but other than that
lilies are easy care.
Other things
blooming in my garden now include coneflowers, beebalm, rudbeckia, hollyhocks, hydrangea,
rocket ligularia, astilbe and hosta.
I picked my first
cucumber this week and it looks like for a change the crop is going to be a
good one. Melons and gourds are also
starting to form on my vines and my sweet corn is tasseling. My tomato and pepper plants like the hot
weather and have put on a big growth spurt.
The fall seed and
bulb catalogs are pouring into my mailbox.
It’s a good time to pick up early season deals and a good time to order spring
flowering bulbs while the spring bulb season is still fresh in your mind. I personally take lots of pictures of my
garden through the seasons and if I need to I can study them to see where I need
more color in the spring- (or actually where I have any room left).
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| I think I need some white and yellow in this bed. Can you see a place to put them? |
It’s also a good
time to browse the garden shops looking for good deals as retailers try to make
room for fall merchandise. I picked up
seeds at half price- which is unusual as most companies ship them back. I sealed them in plastic containers for next
year. Most seeds will have only minimal
loss in germination the second year. You’ll
also find deals on pots, tools, even patio furniture and garden art.
I got some
perennials at half price too. My fault
is that if I see a nice perennial marked down to a great price I can’t resist
buying it and then I have to find a place to put it.
Take a look at the
right side of this blog for some additional pages you can click on. The Examiner site I have on line is closing
soon and I am moving lots of older articles here. This week I put together a page with canning
and food preservation articles for many types of fruits and vegetables. There
are recipes too. Some of these come from
I book I wrote several years ago- Knacks
Guide to Canning, Pickling and Preserving.
I’ll be adding to this page over time. There are also a few new pages on other
subjects there on the right too.
Becoming mobile plants- is it in our future?
I was sitting there reading
about all the horrible unrest in our country and an idea came to me. I know, I know, it’s a pie in the sky thing
but wouldn’t it be wonderful if every person in the world turned green? One beautiful deep green shade that everyone
shared? It might solve the bias on the
basis of skin color issue and if we did the green thing right maybe it could
solve a lot of other problems too.
If we could genetically
engineer our skin cells to contain chloroplasts and could produce our own food
from sunlight what a great thing that would be.
After all most scientists believe that chloroplasts were once independent
living things that merged with fungi or bacteria to produce the first
plants. Would it really be that hard to
put them in skin cells? And we eat them
every day so they can’t harm us.
If all we had to do
was spend some time every day in the sun or under artificial light to produce
all our food needs we could stop raising animals and crops, saving water and
lots and lots of energy. No electricity
or other fuel needed for refrigeration, transportation, preparing, cooking and storing
food. A much reduced waste stream to
worry about, and less of those air polluting cow belches. No animal cruelty and no need for carrots to
be torn from the soil and munched while still alive.
Just think- no
children starving if they could sit in the sun.
No worrying about affording good food or whether you should eat this or
that. You wouldn’t need teeth. There
would be fewer medical issues if we didn’t eat food and made our own food
internally. (We might have to
genetically engineer away our taste buds.)
The benefits to us
and the environment would be amazing if people manufactured their own personal supply
of food from the sun’s energy. Just
think you would never have to stop and eat while on your quest to catch
Pokemon.
If we become mobile
plants maybe we could even develop flowers so that we could reproduce like
plants do. I’m not quite sure what would
be our pollinators though.
Can water hyacinth survive Michigan winters?
MSU reports that
water hyacinths have survived several winters in the Lake Erie Metropark. Water hyacinths are considered to be tropical
plants. Of course conservationists are
worried about this and urging people to be careful with disposing of the plants
from garden water features.
While it’s still on
the conservation hit list there seems to be some disagreement among biologists
now as to just how terrible water hyacinth is. It’s probably in Lake Erie because the water,
while cleaner than a few years ago, is still polluted. Water hyacinth actually cleans polluted
waters and tends to become prolific only when the water is quite polluted and
other plant species aren’t thriving.
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| Water hyacinth |
Before we get too
concerned about killing it in Lake Erie maybe we need to see just how much it
will spread in cold winter areas- and how much good it does cleaning the lake
water. I am not suggesting that people
introduce the plant into natural waters.
But for those of you who have larger water features in the garden or
earth bottom ponds isolated from natural water features you may want to see if
this beautiful flowering plant will survive the winter for you. If you have had water hyacinths survive the
winter let me know about it please.
Beginning an Herb Garden
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| Borage flower |
Herbs bring exciting
tastes to our meals and can also bring comfort and healing to our bodies. Fresh
herbs are the best tasting and most nutritious.
Anyone with a small patch of sun can have an herb garden. In this article we will discuss getting
started with an herb garden of your own.
Choosing a site
Most herbs require a
sunny spot to do well. Even a small
sunny spot on a deck or porch can be a spot for herbs in containers. In general herbs are not fussy about soil
type. In fact many prefer soil that is
not too rich. The majority of herbs do
require soil that drains well. If you
have heavy clay soil you may want to grow herbs in raised beds of amended soil.
Just like a
vegetable garden, you will be more likely to use your herbs if you can dash out
the door and pick some as you cook. A
spot close to the house will tend to keep the herb bed better cared for and
harvested more frequently. If space is
limited, herbs can be tucked into flower beds.
Some are actually quite ornamental.
Just make sure they are in locations where they will not be sprayed with
pesticides.
Herbs can also be
planted in the vegetable garden. Many
herbs either attract beneficial insects or repel pest insects. Perennial herbs should be planted where they
will not need to be disturbed each year as you prepare the garden.
If you live in zone
five or lower, you may want to place your herb garden where it is protected
from the wind and in a spot that collects heat, such as near a stone patio or
wall. This will give you a better chance
for success with some of the heat loving, slightly tender herbs.
Some herbs can
become invasive in a favorable site.
Mints, lemon balm, comfrey, and oregano are examples. You may want to place these herbs where they
are surrounded by a paved area or an area that is frequently mowed rather than
in the flower or vegetable garden.
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| Chamomile |
Choosing varieties
When getting started
with an herb garden you should learn something about the herb plants you would
like to grow. Do you want familiar culinary
herbs, medicinal herbs, or herbs for crafts and dye making? Plant catalogs and good reference books will
help you learn about the requirements of each herb. This site has articles on the requirements
and care of individual herb plants.
If space is limited
grow only the herbs you will use the most.
If you like rosemary and use it frequently in cooking then you will want
rosemary. If space is not a problem you
can experiment with other herbs. One
herb plant is usually enough for most households. Plants used for tea, such as chamomile, may
require a few plants. If you use them a
lot you can add more plants later.
Some herbs are
annual plants and must be planted each year.
Others are perennials or bi-annual.
Not all perennial and bi-annual herbs will grow in all areas. There may be some varieties of an herb that
will survive better in your area than others.
Most annual herbs
can be planted after the danger of frost has passed. Some perennial herbs that won’t survive
winter in your area might survive if you plant them in a pot and bring them
inside for the winter. Check the zone
hardiness of each variety of the herb.
Some thymes will survive zone five for example, and some won’t.
Many of our common
herbs are of Mediterranean origin and don’t like wet soil or to be too wet in
winter. If you have clay soil you may
have to build a raised bed where the soil is amended with gravel for
drainage. These herbs may not appreciate
daily soakings from irrigation sprinklers either. Mulch them with stones instead of bark chips. Mediterranean herbs include lavender and
rosemary.
There are some herbs
that have varieties that have been selected to be more ornamental than
edible. Some sages with variegated
leaves are quite attractive in the garden but do not have that true sage flavor
in cooking. Some basils have been bred
to have frilly, colorful leaves but do not have much flavor when used in
cooking. There are basils, sages,
oregano, thymes and mints that have different flavors, some good for cooking
and others just for potpourri or scenting the garden.
If you are
interested in medicinal herbs be aware that there are some varieties and
species that have more of an active ingredient than others. Medicinal herbs should be purchased from a
nursery that specializes in them, rather than the local garden store. The herbs will be more likely to be
identified correctly and varieties that are high in medicinal qualities will be
offered.
Caring for and harvesting herbs
Herbs usually are
fairly pest and disease free if grown in suitable conditions. Most herbs where the foliage is used for
cooking benefit if any flowers produced are removed. Regular pruning and pinching will keep herb
plants from getting lanky and will encourage new fresh growth.
In plants where the
flowers are used or appreciated, you must be careful about what time plants are
pruned. Lavender needs to be pruned in
early spring; if you trim later you may lose all the flowers. For some herbs you want flowers to
develop. If you want dill seed or
caraway or coriander you must let flowers develop.
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| Dill |
To prevent powdery
mildew and other fungal disease, don’t crowd your herb garden. Leave space between plants for good
airflow. Water herbs at the base of the
plants and don’t work among them or harvest when the foliage is wet from rain
or dew.
Herbs generally
don’t require much fertilization. Check
your references for recommendations for each type of herb before applying
fertilizer. Too much fertilizer may
actually harm them.
Fresh herbs are
better tasting and more nutritious and an herb garden is a simple way to get
them.
How to properly wash and store fresh produce
When you were a kid
you may have went to the garden and picked something like a tomato and just ate
it on the spot. I know I did. We never thought about what we might be eating
with that tomato. We didn’t worry about the DDT that might have been lavished
on that garden because people just didn’t worry about that kind of thing. That
doesn’t mean we didn’t get sick, or have long term health effects; we just
didn’t tie it to the fruits and vegetables we munched on.
You may let your
kids munch freely in the garden, thinking that because you garden organically
it’s perfectly fine. It’s a personal
choice but everyone should be aware that organic doesn’t mean food is always
safe to consume without washing. This is
especially true of things growing close to the soil like lettuce and
strawberries or in the soil like carrots and potatoes.
It’s important to
realize that fruits and vegetables sold as organic could harm you if you don’t
wash and store them properly. Organic
produce is often fertilized with manure and compost, both of which can contain
deadly bacteria that could be transmitted to produce grown in it. People who
garden organically may have chickens, cats or other animals, domestic and wild,
roaming the garden that can contaminate plants with their feces. Salmonella, E.coli, Listerella and other
bacteria can be found on all kinds of fruits and vegetables. So can parasites like Toxoplasmosis. In some people and circumstances these
bacteria and parasites can cause deadly illness.
While organic may
mean it’s free of pesticides you could still be harmed from bacterial or
parasite contamination. That doesn’t
mean all organic produce is contaminated with bacteria; it just means that the
smart consumer will wash all fresh produce, regardless of how it is grown. And washing fruits and vegetables does remove
most pesticide residue.
And after it’s picked, fresh produce can still
be contaminated by dirty containers, dirty hands or other sources of contamination.
Bottom line: even if it’s grown in your own backyard under what you think are
ideal conditions it’s smart to wash all fresh produce before eating it. In this
article you will find general information on washing and storing fruits and
vegetables and some specific instructions for various garden products.
One note: the FDA says it is fine to eat ready to eat produce that says
it has been washed and that is sold in a sealed bag without washing it again.
Many types of
vegetables and fruits stay fresh longer if they are washed just before eating
or cooking with them. If refrigerated
before washing the produce should be put in a bag or container to avoid
contaminating the refrigerator. Remove
roots, stems, outer leaves and other unwanted plant parts before washing. You may want to wash things like potatoes and
carrots both before and after peeling them.
How to wash fresh produce
The USDA and many
other researchers have found that you don’t need anything to wash produce with
other than clean running water. They
found that soaps, vinegar, salt water and other concoctions aren’t necessary
and don’t do a better job of removing bacterial contamination if proper washing
procedures are followed. (Salt water
soaks may help the remove insects from produce however). A vegetable scrub brush is recommended for some
types of produce.
Before you begin
washing any produce wash your kitchen sink, counter tops, cutting board and any
utensils you will use with hot soapy water and then rinse well. Make sure the kitchen sink is clean if you
are going to put any produce in it. Most
kitchen sinks have as much bacteria as your toilet unless they are freshly
scrubbed. Wooden cutting boards are
another good source of bacterial contamination, metal, plastic or glass cutting
boards are safer. Keep raw meat or fluids from meat packages away from fresh
produce and thoroughly wash anything raw meat has touched before using it on
produce. Soak your scrub brush in hot
soapy water with a little household bleach added, then rinse and allow to air
dry after each use.
Washing greens
Store unwashed
greens in the refrigerator crisper or vegetable drawer in a bag or container
until ready to wash and use.
Remove outer leaves
from head lettuce, cut off the root plate and remove the core, a hard area near
the bottom. Cut the head in half or
quarters.
Separate leafy
greens like leaf lettuce, kale, spinach into individual leaves and remove any
yellowed or damaged leaves, thick stems or root pieces.
Soak greens in cold,
clean water for about 5 minutes, and then drain the sink or container.
Rinse each leaf or
section of head lettuce under cold running water.
Use a lettuce
spinner to dry greens or pat dry with clean paper towels. You can also air dry in a colander.
Washed and dried
greens will remain fresh for a few days in the refrigerator in a plastic bag or
covered container but are best used right after washing.
Washing
cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower
Remove the outer
leaves and roots. Store these vegetables in a bag or container in the
refrigerator until ready to wash. Whole
cabbage with roots left on can be stored in a cool place for several weeks.
Soak the cabbage,
broccoli etc. in cold water for 5 minutes.
If you suspect cabbage worms or other insects add 1 cup of salt to the
soaking water. This should kill them and draw them out of the vegetables. Then empty the soaking water and rinse well
under cold running water.
Allow these
vegetables to air dry before storing or using.
Washed cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts or cauliflower will store in
a plastic bag in the refrigerator for several days.
Washing root vegetables- potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes, onions
Brush off excess
dirt from root vegetables. Store your
onions and potatoes outside of the refrigerator in a dark place. Carrots, beets, radishes and turnips should
have the tops removed and be stored in the crisper or vegetable drawer of the
refrigerator in a bag or container until washed.
To wash onions cut
off the root plate and top and peel off the outer layers of papery skin. Rinse under cold running water. On green onions peel off the outer layers of
onion skin, cut off the roots and cut tops to the length you desire. Green onions will store for several days in a
plastic bag in the refrigerator. Bulb
onions will also store in a plastic bag after they are washed, either cut or
whole, for several days.
Scrub potatoes and
other root vegetables with a vegetable scrub brush under cold running water.
Pay attention to “eye” areas, cracks and crevices and try to remove all traces
of soil. After peeling wash root
vegetables again under clean, cold running water. Use these roots right after washing.
Washing and storing tomatoes and peppers
Don’t wash these
fruits until you are ready to use them.
Brush off any visible dirt.
If tomatoes need to
ripen you can store them in a bright spot, otherwise find a cool dark place for
tomatoes but do not refrigerate them.
Refrigeration alters the taste of tomatoes and they store for just as
long outside the refrigerator.
Green tomatoes can
be wrapped, without washing, in pieces of paper towel or newspaper and spaced
so they are not touching in a single layer and they will continue to ripen for
a long time. They will not taste as good
as vine ripened fruit but it’s a good way to rescue tomatoes before a frost.
If you want peppers
to stay at the ripeness at which they were picked you can store them in the
vegetable drawer in the refrigerator. If
you leave them out of the refrigerator they may continue to ripen, for example
green peppers may turn red. However the
taste won’t be quite the same as if you let them ripen in the garden.
Do not store whole
tomatoes and peppers in plastic bags or sealed containers as they will spoil
quickly. Use any tomatoes or peppers
with soft spots, blossom rot, cuts or bruises first, within a day or so.
When they are wanted
for use, wash your peppers and tomatoes in cool running water.
The seeds and white
membrane inside hot peppers are the “hottest” part of the pepper. You may want to use gloves when cutting up
hot peppers and keep your hands away from your face.
Peppers can be
chopped or sliced and stored in a plastic bag for a few days in the
refrigerator. Tomatoes that are chopped
or sliced should be used up in a few hours.
If you are going to freeze tomatoes or peppers they should be blanched first.
Washing melons, pumpkins, squash and cucumbers
Store the unwashed
melons, summer squash and cucumbers in a bag or container in the
refrigerator. Store your pumpkins and
winter squash outside of the refrigerator, in a place above freezing.
Do not cut melons, squash, pumpkins or cukes before washing them. Scrub the outside of melons, squash, cukes and
pumpkins with a scrub brush under cold running water. Netted melons will need extra attention to
remove all soil. Washed but uncut
melons, squash and cukes can be dried off and stored in the refrigerator for
several days before use.
Washed and cut
melon, squash, cukes can be stored in containers or plastic bags or tightly
wrapped in plastic for a day or two in the refrigerator.
Washing green or wax beans
Store beans in a bag
or container in the refrigerator for a day or so before washing.
Remove any stems and
leaves. Soak in cold water for 5
minutes. Drain container and rinse in a
colander under cold, running water.
Use beans right
after washing.
Washing apples, pears, plums, peaches
Store your pears
outside the refrigerator until ripened and soft. Otherwise these fruits can be
stored washed or unwashed in the refrigerator.
Unwashed apples can be stored in a cool place outside the frig for
several weeks.
Wash these fruits
under cold running water, turning them so all sides are exposed to the
water. Let them dry or dry them with
clean paper towels before refrigerating.
Washing berries and cherries
Do not wash these
fruits before you are ready to use them.
Store unwashed berries and cherries in a container or bag in the
refrigerator for several days.
Pit cherries after
washing them. Remove stems. Place
berries and cherries in a colander and rinse under cold running water. Stir the fruit in the colander occasionally
to expose all surfaces.
Use berries and
cherries right after washing.
Tropical fruit with
a peel like oranges should be washed before eating or cutting. Soft tropical fruits should also be washed
and treated like berries or cherries.
While it is most
important to wash fruits and vegetables that will be eaten raw, washing all
fruits and vegetables, even those which you will be cooking, is a good idea.
Don’t use mothballs in the garden
For many years I
have worked to discourage people from using “mothballs” to repel animals from
their homes and gardens. I am now
seeing articles on line encouraging people to use them in the garden for all
sorts of things from deterring Japanese beetles to scaring away squirrels. Mothballs are about the farthest thing
imaginable from a safe, natural way to repel pests. I personally wouldn’t use them in the house
even to discourage clothes moths.
Mothballs contain
one of two ( sometimes both) highly
toxic chemicals, naphthalene and Para dichlorobenzene. These chemicals are classified as hazardous
and a possible carcinogen by the EPA. There are sometimes other hazardous chemicals
in mothballs too. Pesticides, which mothballs are, (they are not a repellant,
they kill insects), are labeled as to how to use the product and by law they cannot be used any other
way.
Mothball boxes, if
you read them, do not list the use of the product outdoors, or to repel
animals. So if you use them in this way you are breaking the law. If you
instruct people to use them in a non-approved way you are also breaking the
law.
But breaking the law
is not the most important consideration. These chemicals do serious damage to
humans and other animals exposed to them. They can be absorbed through the
skin, inhaled, or ingested. The amount of damage done varies as to exposure and
who is exposed, but severe and fatal consequences can occur.
The chemicals in
mothballs can cause hemolytic anemia, damage to the liver and kidneys,
neurological damage, cataracts and damage to the retina. Children, pets, people
who already have liver or kidney problems or some forms of inherited blood
disorders are at special risk. Deaths have occurred from naphthalene and Para
dichlorobenzene exposure in both children and adults.
Using a lot of
mothballs in an attic or crawl space may allow toxic fumes to enter the living
area and just breathing those fumes can be hazardous. When people place
mothballs outside in an attempt to discourage animals they are exposing
themselves, children and pets to possibly fatal reactions. The chemicals also
pass through the placental barrier and a pregnant woman who handles mothballs
or even exposes herself to the fumes for an extended period of time can damage
her baby.
Soil that is
contaminated with dissolved mothballs is also toxic; plants should never be
consumed if they are grown in soil contaminated by mothballs. It’s not known
how long the contamination remains in the soil.
If you can smell the
mothballs you are inhaling vaporized poison. If a child or pet swallows just
one mothball it can cause serious problems and the poison hotline should be
called immediately. (1-800-222-1222). The pesticides in
mothballs can be absorbed through the skin by children handling them or pets
walking on them. Never put them in pet’s
beds or store them with pet food. Don’t
use them in any food area.
Mothballs are a
toxic pesticide and should be treated as such.
They are definitely not an organic or safe solution to garden or pest
problems. They are intended to be used
in an enclosed area to prevent insects from eating stored clothing. Read the
label on the box and follow it. Even
though your grandmother used them all over the house doesn’t mean they are
safe. Your grandparents also used DDT without knowing the consequences. And the
old wives tale of discouraging animals with mothballs doesn’t work most of the
time anyway.
Here’s national
pesticide hotline page on toxic effects of mothballs.
Purple Loosestrife- Is it really that bad?
This beautiful but
invasive plant has incited controversy since the 1800’s when it was first
discovered on the East coast. Purple
Loosestrife, Lythrum salicaria, is native to Eurasia and in its native range
has several herbal uses. Whether it was
brought over deliberately for herbal or ornamental use, or arrived in the
ballast water of ships or as seeds in the wool of imported sheep we’ll never
know.
Before Americans
became aware of the invasive nature of Purple Loosestrife, it was often used as
an ornamental plant. Purple loosestrife
is often used in water and bog gardens in Europe and is sold in garden
shops. And even here ornamental
selections are sometimes offered as garden plants. They are marketed as
sterile, but our ever wary evasion biologists warn that these plants are often
capable of producing seeds or crossing with wild plants.
In the 50’s
conservationists began to get alarmed over how fast Purple Loosestrife was
spreading, and it was thought, choking out native wetland plants and displacing
food and habitat for native birds, fish and other wetland creatures. Its bright
color certainly makes it obvious. Efforts were begun to control and eradicate
Purple Loosestrife.
As many a drive down
a country road with marshy edges will tell you, the efforts and millions of tax
payer dollars used to eradicate Purple Loosestrife haven’t been completely
successful. However, in the 80’s
Michigan developed the Purple Loosestrife project, which enlisted the help of
school children to help eradicate the plants.
Thousands of imported Galerucella beetles of two species were released
as well as a tiny root weevil and a small insect that feeds on the flowers of
Purple Loosestrife and disrupts seed formation.
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| Purple loosestrife |
As with many
non-native plants once considered to be invasive, time often restores some
equilibrium to the environment. Today
it’s obvious that in many areas of Michigan those natural predators released
and changing conditions are controlling the weed. While clumps of Purple Loosestrife still
exist, the vast seas of purple that once clogged nearly every Michigan wetland
have largely disappeared.
Purple Loosestrife
prefers to grow in wet soil or shallow water in the sun. It has perennial roots that send up new
shoots each spring and each year the clump expands. The reddish stems grow to about 4 feet high
and are covered with pairs or whorls of long narrow leaves, which briefly turn
bright red in the fall. At the top of
the plant a spike of small magenta-purple flowers begins blooming in late June
in southern Michigan, somewhat later in northern areas and it may continue
blooming until frost.
It was once thought
that Purple Loosestrife spread by rhizomes (special roots), but current
research shows that spread of the plant is primarily by seeds. A mature Purple Loosestrife plant produces
millions of seeds and these float on water, get carried on beaks and feet of
water birds, or in the wool and fur of animals to new locations.
Purple Loosestrife
has some value as a food or habitat source for our native wetland species of
animals. Some butterflies and bees do
visit the flowers in wetland areas, including the monarch. Some bird species actually prefer purple
loosestrife areas, such as red winged blackbirds. The Wilson Ornithological Society published a
study that found at least 10 species of birds in Lake Huron wetlands utilized
purple loosestrife stands for nesting. The studies were done close to where I
live and I found them quite interesting. You can read that study here: https://sora.unm.edu/sites/default/files/journals/wilson/v111n01/p0105-p0114.pdf
The study found that
insects and other invertebrate prey for birds was similar in wetlands with and
without purple loosestrife and that the diversity and abundance of bird species
varied by the structure of the wetland plants – whether they were reeds and
grasses or shrubby for example – whether or not the species was purple
loosestrife or native plants.
My take after
examining studies and personal observation is that purple loosestrife is not as
bad as some native plant purists would suggest. While it is pretty its growth
shouldn’t be encouraged and gardeners should not deliberately plant purple
loosestrife in the landscape. Whether
you want to wage war with it in wet areas of your property should it pop up on
its own is really your choice.
I have had purple
loosestrife in my large pond for more than 5 years. It started as a single plant. There are now 3 plants in the pond. And ponds close by don’t seem to have any of it. I don’t know how it got there but I am not
going to worry too much about it. Not
all people share my idea that nature knows best- some people get very excited
when they spot purple loosestrife and will pester you to remove it. If that
kind of thing bothers you then by all means yank it out should it come to your
place.
While it’s doubtful
we will ever totally eliminate Purple Loosestrife, discouraging ornamental use
should keep Purple Loosestrife to isolated and much more appreciated clumps of
vivid color along the roads and wetland edges.
Once again already disturbed areas such as ditches near farm fields,
polluted water and gravely wet soil along roads favor this plant over native
plants, but nature chooses plants best suited for the conditions, whether they
are native or not. To have something
pretty growing in these areas which pollinators and birds can utilize may be a
bonus.
Let's get green and growing
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
© Kim Willis
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me. You can also
ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are
welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a
meeting for free. Contact
susanmklaffer@yahoo.com Phone
810-664-8912
For Sale: I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this
spring $15 each. They are not hand
fed. Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow)
and shades of pale green, olive green, and sea green. Some I can sex now, others are a guess. You’ll need to bring your own cage. Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of
fun to watch. Call at 989-761-7609.
Also for sale Muscovy
ducklings, black laced, about a month old, fine to be without mom but you must
buy at least 2. Two for $20, each
additional $8. Can’t be sexed yet. Call the number above. Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and
make good meat ducks. They do not quack-
and are very quiet.
New- Summer is here! Our days are longer
and there is more hours of light to enjoy being outdoors. We welcome you to
join us: experience nature and be inspired! Back Track To Nature will offer
programs on two of Lapeer Land Conservancy properties. As well as at Three
Roods Farm and the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary both located in Columbiaville, MI.
We offer
environmental education programs for scouts, seniors, homeschoolers, garden
clubs, youth groups, retreats, special interest groups and we will tailor
programming to fit your specific needs.
Culinary
Herbs for Beginners Tibbits Nature
Sanctuary
Friday,
July 15, 2016 6pm-8pm $7 per person
Love the taste
of herbs in your meals, but the idea of blending your own or using them fresh
is a little intimidating? Join Gina Delisi for an introductory tour of culinary
herbs! The class will focus on: Fresh Herbs vs. Fresh-Preserved vs. Store
bought, When and how much to add to a meal, Failsafe combinations and getting
the biggest band for your buck. Recipes
and samples will be shared. We will also be demonstrating how to make herbal
infused vinegar, oil and salt. Call Karen at 810-969-1023 to register.
Culinary
Herbs, Beyond Basics Tibbits Nature
Sanctuary, Saturday,
July 23rd, 2016 0am - 12pm $10 per person
Variety is
the spice of life! We all love Basil, Rosemary and Chives, but sometimes you
find yourself wishing for flavors that are new, ethnic and unique, then this
class is the answer. We will be covering traditional ethnic spice blends from
around the world and focusing on specific herbs that really pack a flavor
punch. A few herbs that will be included in this class are: Ginger, Lemongrass,
Tamarind, Sassafras, Lovage, Fennel, Sumac, Turmeric and Cardamom. Samples and examples of herb usage will be
provided including Cardamom coffee. Call Karen at 810-969-1023 to register.
Preserving
your Herbs - Tibbits Nature Sanctuary Sunday,
July 31,2016 10am - 12pm $5 per person
You've
worked all summer on those beautiful herbs, and now the plants are huge and
fall is coming quick. Make sure to have plenty of top quality herbs all winter
long by beginning to preserve now while your herbs are in their best
condition. Join me for a class that
covers every type of herb preservation. Freezing, MANY ways of drying, oil
& vinegar infusions, herbal broths, herbal liquors and herbal salts. Pros and Cons of each technique will also be
covered. I will be demonstrating many techniques. Bring your questions! Call
Karen at 810-969-1023 to register.
Other
programs include: Riseman Refuge and Polly Ann Trail Bike Ride
6pm 8pm Wednesday, July 20, 2016,
Make a
Nature Journal Tibbits Nature SanctuaryThursday,
July 21, 2016, 4pm - 6pm, $5 per person,
Writing in
Nature Tibbits Nature Sanctuary, Thursday,
July 21, 2016,6pm - 8pm $5 per person,
Walking
Meditation Tibbits Nature Sanctuary, Thursday, July 21, 2016 8pm - 9pm
$5 per person
Death Cafe Tibbits Nature Sanctuary Saturday, July 23, 2016 1pm - 3pm $7 per person
A Council
of All Beings 10:30am - 4:30pm,Saturday, August 6, 2016 Three Roods Farm
A Great
Hundred Acre Wood Adventure ( Kids
program) 2pm - 3pm Sunday, August
14,2016 Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Aldo
Leopold Bench Building Workshop 1:30pm
- 4:30pm, Saturday, August 27, 2016
Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Reservations
are needed for all programs listed. Please call or email Karen at 810-969-1023 and
pagekp@gmail.com Directions to the
Tibbits Nature Sanctuary and Riseman Refuge will be given at the time of
registration. Thank you!
Master Gardeners of St Clair County
Annual Garden Tour- Sat,
July 16, 10am-4pm, Marysville, MI.
This tour
sponsored by Master Gardeners of St Clair County takes place at 9 diverse
gardens. Cost is $15. For more info: gina92pj@comcast.net.
Or 586-727-2563.
42nd Annual Troy Garden Walk: Poetic
Gardens- Wed, July
13, 9:30am-3pm and 5pm-8:30pm, Troy
Historic Village, 60 W Wattles Rd, Troy, MI.
Tour 7
private gardens and the Troy Historic Village for only $10. More Info: www.TroyGardenClubMI.com,
248-952-5938
Native Plants & Beneficial
Insects, Tue, July
19, 6:30-8:30pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook
Rd, Novi, MI
Pollinator
Preservation Strategies for the Home Garden: Native Plants and Their Unique
Relationships with Beneficial Insects
Want to
help out our native pollinators and other beneficial insects? Through plant
selection, garden design and maintenance protocols, we can provide a haven not
only for our beautiful butterflies and moths but also other critical beneficial
species, from bees to beetles. Cheryl English, speaker, is an Advanced Master
Gardener of Wayne County, Michigan; a Master Composter of Macomb County; the
owner/operator of Black Cat Pottery/The English Landscape, a contributing
writer to Michigan Gardener Magazine; a board member of the Wildflower
Association of Michigan; she’s on the planning committee of the Detroit Garden
Center; and is President Emeritus of the Master Gardeners of Greater Detroit.
Cost is $25. More info: http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.
MSU Garden Day Sat, August 6, 8am-4:15 pm, MSU
Horticulture Gardens, 1066 Bogue St, East Lansing, MI
At this
conference you will be able to select your favorite garden-themed workshops and
enjoy two keynote presentations by David Culp. Pre- registration is $86 until
7/25 Go to http://www.hrt.msu.edu. To see the class selections and
register.
Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners
in the Lapeer area. This link has a lot
of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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