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Tuesday, July 12, 2016

July 12, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter



Hi Gardeners

I was so glad to get a good dose of rain last week.  We got 1 and 8/10 inches of rain over the Thursday – Friday period. I hope you got some good rain too.  We are still behind about 3 inches in season rainfall however and I hope July helps us catch that up.  There’s a good chance for rain tomorrow.

Many gardens are hitting their peak of color right now.  My lilies are so beautiful I am dreading it when they all finish blooming.  I have lots of different types of lilies and I will be buying a lot more for fall planting.  There are so many wonderful new hybrids.  Lilies are so easy to grow- you just plant the bulbs, usually in the fall.  If you do it right you can have blooms June through August. 

Some lilies take a year or two in your garden to reach full potential but when they do it’s a beautiful sight.  I have found the true lilies are rarely bothered by deer although they will eat day lilies avidly.  Some lilies need stakes, but other than that lilies are easy care.

Other things blooming in my garden now include coneflowers, beebalm, rudbeckia, hollyhocks, hydrangea, rocket ligularia, astilbe and hosta.

I picked my first cucumber this week and it looks like for a change the crop is going to be a good one.  Melons and gourds are also starting to form on my vines and my sweet corn is tasseling.  My tomato and pepper plants like the hot weather and have put on a big growth spurt.

The fall seed and bulb catalogs are pouring into my mailbox.  It’s a good time to pick up early season deals and a good time to order spring flowering bulbs while the spring bulb season is still fresh in your mind.  I personally take lots of pictures of my garden through the seasons and if I need to I can study them to see where I need more color in the spring- (or actually where I have any room left). 

I think I need some white and yellow in this bed.  Can you see a place to put them?

It’s also a good time to browse the garden shops looking for good deals as retailers try to make room for fall merchandise.  I picked up seeds at half price- which is unusual as most companies ship them back.  I sealed them in plastic containers for next year.  Most seeds will have only minimal loss in germination the second year.  You’ll also find deals on pots, tools, even patio furniture and garden art.

I got some perennials at half price too.  My fault is that if I see a nice perennial marked down to a great price I can’t resist buying it and then I have to find a place to put it.

Take a look at the right side of this blog for some additional pages you can click on.  The Examiner site I have on line is closing soon and I am moving lots of older articles here.  This week I put together a page with canning and food preservation articles for many types of fruits and vegetables. There are recipes too.  Some of these come from I book I wrote several years ago- Knacks Guide to Canning, Pickling and Preserving.  I’ll be adding to this page over time.  There are also a few new pages on other subjects there on the right too.

Becoming mobile plants- is it in our future?

I was sitting there reading about all the horrible unrest in our country and an idea came to me.  I know, I know, it’s a pie in the sky thing but wouldn’t it be wonderful if every person in the world turned green?  One beautiful deep green shade that everyone shared?  It might solve the bias on the basis of skin color issue and if we did the green thing right maybe it could solve a lot of other problems too.

If we could genetically engineer our skin cells to contain chloroplasts and could produce our own food from sunlight what a great thing that would be.  After all most scientists believe that chloroplasts were once independent living things that merged with fungi or bacteria to produce the first plants.  Would it really be that hard to put them in skin cells?  And we eat them every day so they can’t harm us.

If all we had to do was spend some time every day in the sun or under artificial light to produce all our food needs we could stop raising animals and crops, saving water and lots and lots of energy.  No electricity or other fuel needed for refrigeration, transportation, preparing, cooking and storing food.  A much reduced waste stream to worry about, and less of those air polluting cow belches.  No animal cruelty and no need for carrots to be torn from the soil and munched while still alive.

Just think- no children starving if they could sit in the sun.  No worrying about affording good food or whether you should eat this or that. You wouldn’t need teeth.  There would be fewer medical issues if we didn’t eat food and made our own food internally.  (We might have to genetically engineer away our taste buds.)

The benefits to us and the environment would be amazing if people manufactured their own personal supply of food from the sun’s energy.  Just think you would never have to stop and eat while on your quest to catch Pokemon.

If we become mobile plants maybe we could even develop flowers so that we could reproduce like plants do.  I’m not quite sure what would be our pollinators though.

Can water hyacinth survive Michigan winters?

MSU reports that water hyacinths have survived several winters in the Lake Erie Metropark.  Water hyacinths are considered to be tropical plants.  Of course conservationists are worried about this and urging people to be careful with disposing of the plants from garden water features. 

While it’s still on the conservation hit list there seems to be some disagreement among biologists now as to just how terrible water hyacinth is.  It’s probably in Lake Erie because the water, while cleaner than a few years ago, is still polluted.  Water hyacinth actually cleans polluted waters and tends to become prolific only when the water is quite polluted and other plant species aren’t thriving. 
Water hyacinth

Before we get too concerned about killing it in Lake Erie maybe we need to see just how much it will spread in cold winter areas- and how much good it does cleaning the lake water.  I am not suggesting that people introduce the plant into natural waters.  But for those of you who have larger water features in the garden or earth bottom ponds isolated from natural water features you may want to see if this beautiful flowering plant will survive the winter for you.  If you have had water hyacinths survive the winter let me know about it please.

Beginning an Herb Garden

Borage flower
Herbs bring exciting tastes to our meals and can also bring comfort and healing to our bodies. Fresh herbs are the best tasting and most nutritious.  Anyone with a small patch of sun can have an herb garden.   In this article we will discuss getting started with an herb garden of your own. 

Choosing a site

Most herbs require a sunny spot to do well.  Even a small sunny spot on a deck or porch can be a spot for herbs in containers.  In general herbs are not fussy about soil type.  In fact many prefer soil that is not too rich.  The majority of herbs do require soil that drains well.   If you have heavy clay soil you may want to grow herbs in raised beds of amended soil.

Just like a vegetable garden, you will be more likely to use your herbs if you can dash out the door and pick some as you cook.  A spot close to the house will tend to keep the herb bed better cared for and harvested more frequently.  If space is limited, herbs can be tucked into flower beds.  Some are actually quite ornamental.   Just make sure they are in locations where they will not be sprayed with pesticides.

Herbs can also be planted in the vegetable garden.  Many herbs either attract beneficial insects or repel pest insects.  Perennial herbs should be planted where they will not need to be disturbed each year as you prepare the garden. 

If you live in zone five or lower, you may want to place your herb garden where it is protected from the wind and in a spot that collects heat, such as near a stone patio or wall.  This will give you a better chance for success with some of the heat loving, slightly tender herbs.

Some herbs can become invasive in a favorable site.  Mints, lemon balm, comfrey, and oregano are examples.  You may want to place these herbs where they are surrounded by a paved area or an area that is frequently mowed rather than in the flower or vegetable garden. 

Chamomile

Choosing varieties

When getting started with an herb garden you should learn something about the herb plants you would like to grow.  Do you want familiar culinary herbs, medicinal herbs, or herbs for crafts and dye making?  Plant catalogs and good reference books will help you learn about the requirements of each herb.  This site has articles on the requirements and care of individual herb plants.

If space is limited grow only the herbs you will use the most.   If you like rosemary and use it frequently in cooking then you will want rosemary.  If space is not a problem you can experiment with other herbs.  One herb plant is usually enough for most households.   Plants used for tea, such as chamomile, may require a few plants.  If you use them a lot you can add more plants later. 

Some herbs are annual plants and must be planted each year.  Others are perennials or bi-annual.  Not all perennial and bi-annual herbs will grow in all areas.    There may be some varieties of an herb that will survive better in your area than others.

Most annual herbs can be planted after the danger of frost has passed.   Some perennial herbs that won’t survive winter in your area might survive if you plant them in a pot and bring them inside for the winter.  Check the zone hardiness of each variety of the herb.  Some thymes will survive zone five for example, and some won’t.

Many of our common herbs are of Mediterranean origin and don’t like wet soil or to be too wet in winter.   If you have clay soil you may have to build a raised bed where the soil is amended with gravel for drainage.  These herbs may not appreciate daily soakings from irrigation sprinklers either.  Mulch them with stones instead of bark chips.   Mediterranean herbs include lavender and rosemary.

There are some herbs that have varieties that have been selected to be more ornamental than edible.  Some sages with variegated leaves are quite attractive in the garden but do not have that true sage flavor in cooking.  Some basils have been bred to have frilly, colorful leaves but do not have much flavor when used in cooking.  There are basils, sages, oregano, thymes and mints that have different flavors, some good for cooking and others just for potpourri or scenting the garden.

If you are interested in medicinal herbs be aware that there are some varieties and species that have more of an active ingredient than others.  Medicinal herbs should be purchased from a nursery that specializes in them, rather than the local garden store.   The herbs will be more likely to be identified correctly and varieties that are high in medicinal qualities will be offered.

Caring for and harvesting herbs

Herbs usually are fairly pest and disease free if grown in suitable conditions.  Most herbs where the foliage is used for cooking benefit if any flowers produced are removed.   Regular pruning and pinching will keep herb plants from getting lanky and will encourage new fresh growth. 

In plants where the flowers are used or appreciated, you must be careful about what time plants are pruned.  Lavender needs to be pruned in early spring; if you trim later you may lose all the flowers.  For some herbs you want flowers to develop.  If you want dill seed or caraway or coriander you must let flowers develop.
 
Dill

To prevent powdery mildew and other fungal disease, don’t crowd your herb garden.  Leave space between plants for good airflow.  Water herbs at the base of the plants and don’t work among them or harvest when the foliage is wet from rain or dew. 

Herbs generally don’t require much fertilization.   Check your references for recommendations for each type of herb before applying fertilizer.  Too much fertilizer may actually harm them.


Fresh herbs are better tasting and more nutritious and an herb garden is a simple way to get them.

How to properly wash and store fresh produce

When you were a kid you may have went to the garden and picked something like a tomato and just ate it on the spot.   I know I did.  We never thought about what we might be eating with that tomato. We didn’t worry about the DDT that might have been lavished on that garden because people just didn’t worry about that kind of thing. That doesn’t mean we didn’t get sick, or have long term health effects; we just didn’t tie it to the fruits and vegetables we munched on. 

You may let your kids munch freely in the garden, thinking that because you garden organically it’s perfectly fine.   It’s a personal choice but everyone should be aware that organic doesn’t mean food is always safe to consume without washing.  This is especially true of things growing close to the soil like lettuce and strawberries or in the soil like carrots and potatoes.
 
It’s important to realize that fruits and vegetables sold as organic could harm you if you don’t wash and store them properly.  Organic produce is often fertilized with manure and compost, both of which can contain deadly bacteria that could be transmitted to produce grown in it. People who garden organically may have chickens, cats or other animals, domestic and wild, roaming the garden that can contaminate plants with their feces.  Salmonella, E.coli, Listerella and other bacteria can be found on all kinds of fruits and vegetables.  So can parasites like Toxoplasmosis.  In some people and circumstances these bacteria and parasites can cause deadly illness.

While organic may mean it’s free of pesticides you could still be harmed from bacterial or parasite contamination.  That doesn’t mean all organic produce is contaminated with bacteria; it just means that the smart consumer will wash all fresh produce, regardless of how it is grown.  And washing fruits and vegetables does remove most pesticide residue. 

 And after it’s picked, fresh produce can still be contaminated by dirty containers, dirty hands or other sources of contamination. Bottom line: even if it’s grown in your own backyard under what you think are ideal conditions it’s smart to wash all fresh produce before eating it. In this article you will find general information on washing and storing fruits and vegetables and some specific instructions for various garden products.

One note: the FDA says it is fine to eat ready to eat produce that says it has been washed and that is sold in a sealed bag without washing it again.

Many types of vegetables and fruits stay fresh longer if they are washed just before eating or cooking with them.  If refrigerated before washing the produce should be put in a bag or container to avoid contaminating the refrigerator.  Remove roots, stems, outer leaves and other unwanted plant parts before washing.  You may want to wash things like potatoes and carrots both before and after peeling them.

How to wash fresh produce

The USDA and many other researchers have found that you don’t need anything to wash produce with other than clean running water.  They found that soaps, vinegar, salt water and other concoctions aren’t necessary and don’t do a better job of removing bacterial contamination if proper washing procedures are followed.  (Salt water soaks may help the remove insects from produce however).  A vegetable scrub brush is recommended for some types of produce.

Before you begin washing any produce wash your kitchen sink, counter tops, cutting board and any utensils you will use with hot soapy water and then rinse well.  Make sure the kitchen sink is clean if you are going to put any produce in it.  Most kitchen sinks have as much bacteria as your toilet unless they are freshly scrubbed.  Wooden cutting boards are another good source of bacterial contamination, metal, plastic or glass cutting boards are safer. Keep raw meat or fluids from meat packages away from fresh produce and thoroughly wash anything raw meat has touched before using it on produce.  Soak your scrub brush in hot soapy water with a little household bleach added, then rinse and allow to air dry after each use.

Washing greens

Store unwashed greens in the refrigerator crisper or vegetable drawer in a bag or container until ready to wash and use.

Remove outer leaves from head lettuce, cut off the root plate and remove the core, a hard area near the bottom.  Cut the head in half or quarters.

Separate leafy greens like leaf lettuce, kale, spinach into individual leaves and remove any yellowed or damaged leaves, thick stems or root pieces.

Soak greens in cold, clean water for about 5 minutes, and then drain the sink or container.

Rinse each leaf or section of head lettuce under cold running water.

Use a lettuce spinner to dry greens or pat dry with clean paper towels.  You can also air dry in a colander.

Washed and dried greens will remain fresh for a few days in the refrigerator in a plastic bag or covered container but are best used right after washing.

 Washing cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower

Remove the outer leaves and roots. Store these vegetables in a bag or container in the refrigerator until ready to wash.  Whole cabbage with roots left on can be stored in a cool place for several weeks.

Soak the cabbage, broccoli etc. in cold water for 5 minutes.  If you suspect cabbage worms or other insects add 1 cup of salt to the soaking water. This should kill them and draw them out of the vegetables.  Then empty the soaking water and rinse well under cold running water.

Allow these vegetables to air dry before storing or using.  Washed cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts or cauliflower will store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for several days.

Washing root vegetables- potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes, onions

Brush off excess dirt from root vegetables.  Store your onions and potatoes outside of the refrigerator in a dark place.  Carrots, beets, radishes and turnips should have the tops removed and be stored in the crisper or vegetable drawer of the refrigerator in a bag or container until washed.

To wash onions cut off the root plate and top and peel off the outer layers of papery skin.  Rinse under cold running water.  On green onions peel off the outer layers of onion skin, cut off the roots and cut tops to the length you desire.  Green onions will store for several days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.  Bulb onions will also store in a plastic bag after they are washed, either cut or whole, for several days.

Scrub potatoes and other root vegetables with a vegetable scrub brush under cold running water. Pay attention to “eye” areas, cracks and crevices and try to remove all traces of soil.  After peeling wash root vegetables again under clean, cold running water.  Use these roots right after washing.

Washing and storing tomatoes and peppers

Don’t wash these fruits until you are ready to use them.  Brush off any visible dirt. 

If tomatoes need to ripen you can store them in a bright spot, otherwise find a cool dark place for tomatoes but do not refrigerate them.  Refrigeration alters the taste of tomatoes and they store for just as long outside the refrigerator.

Green tomatoes can be wrapped, without washing, in pieces of paper towel or newspaper and spaced so they are not touching in a single layer and they will continue to ripen for a long time.  They will not taste as good as vine ripened fruit but it’s a good way to rescue tomatoes before a frost.

If you want peppers to stay at the ripeness at which they were picked you can store them in the vegetable drawer in the refrigerator.  If you leave them out of the refrigerator they may continue to ripen, for example green peppers may turn red.  However the taste won’t be quite the same as if you let them ripen in the garden.

Do not store whole tomatoes and peppers in plastic bags or sealed containers as they will spoil quickly.  Use any tomatoes or peppers with soft spots, blossom rot, cuts or bruises first, within a day or so.

When they are wanted for use, wash your peppers and tomatoes in cool running water. 

The seeds and white membrane inside hot peppers are the “hottest” part of the pepper.  You may want to use gloves when cutting up hot peppers and keep your hands away from your face.

Peppers can be chopped or sliced and stored in a plastic bag for a few days in the refrigerator.  Tomatoes that are chopped or sliced should be used up in a few hours.  If you are going to freeze tomatoes or peppers they should be blanched first. 

Washing melons, pumpkins, squash and cucumbers

Store the unwashed melons, summer squash and cucumbers in a bag or container in the refrigerator.  Store your pumpkins and winter squash outside of the refrigerator, in a place above freezing.



Do not cut melons, squash, pumpkins or cukes before washing them. Scrub the outside of melons, squash, cukes and pumpkins with a scrub brush under cold running water.  Netted melons will need extra attention to remove all soil.  Washed but uncut melons, squash and cukes can be dried off and stored in the refrigerator for several days before use.

Washed and cut melon, squash, cukes can be stored in containers or plastic bags or tightly wrapped in plastic for a day or two in the refrigerator.

Washing green or wax beans

Store beans in a bag or container in the refrigerator for a day or so before washing.

Remove any stems and leaves.  Soak in cold water for 5 minutes.  Drain container and rinse in a colander under cold, running water.

Use beans right after washing.

Washing apples, pears, plums, peaches

Store your pears outside the refrigerator until ripened and soft. Otherwise these fruits can be stored washed or unwashed in the refrigerator.  Unwashed apples can be stored in a cool place outside the frig for several weeks.

Wash these fruits under cold running water, turning them so all sides are exposed to the water.  Let them dry or dry them with clean paper towels before refrigerating.

Washing berries and cherries

Do not wash these fruits before you are ready to use them.  Store unwashed berries and cherries in a container or bag in the refrigerator for several days.

Pit cherries after washing them.  Remove stems. Place berries and cherries in a colander and rinse under cold running water.  Stir the fruit in the colander occasionally to expose all surfaces.

Use berries and cherries right after washing.


Tropical fruit with a peel like oranges should be washed before eating or cutting.  Soft tropical fruits should also be washed and treated like berries or cherries.

While it is most important to wash fruits and vegetables that will be eaten raw, washing all fruits and vegetables, even those which you will be cooking, is a good idea.

Don’t use mothballs in the garden

For many years I have worked to discourage people from using “mothballs” to repel animals from their homes and gardens.   I am now seeing articles on line encouraging people to use them in the garden for all sorts of things from deterring Japanese beetles to scaring away squirrels.  Mothballs are about the farthest thing imaginable from a safe, natural way to repel pests.  I personally wouldn’t use them in the house even to discourage clothes moths.

Mothballs contain one of  two ( sometimes both) highly toxic chemicals, naphthalene and Para dichlorobenzene.  These chemicals are classified as hazardous and a possible carcinogen by the EPA.   There are sometimes other hazardous chemicals in mothballs too. Pesticides, which mothballs are, (they are not a repellant, they kill insects), are labeled as to how to use the product and by law they cannot be used any other way.

Mothball boxes, if you read them, do not list the use of the product outdoors, or to repel animals. So if you use them in this way you are breaking the law. If you instruct people to use them in a non-approved way you are also breaking the law.

But breaking the law is not the most important consideration. These chemicals do serious damage to humans and other animals exposed to them. They can be absorbed through the skin, inhaled, or ingested. The amount of damage done varies as to exposure and who is exposed, but severe and fatal consequences can occur.

The chemicals in mothballs can cause hemolytic anemia, damage to the liver and kidneys, neurological damage, cataracts and damage to the retina. Children, pets, people who already have liver or kidney problems or some forms of inherited blood disorders are at special risk. Deaths have occurred from naphthalene and Para dichlorobenzene exposure in both children and adults.

Using a lot of mothballs in an attic or crawl space may allow toxic fumes to enter the living area and just breathing those fumes can be hazardous. When people place mothballs outside in an attempt to discourage animals they are exposing themselves, children and pets to possibly fatal reactions. The chemicals also pass through the placental barrier and a pregnant woman who handles mothballs or even exposes herself to the fumes for an extended period of time can damage her baby.

Soil that is contaminated with dissolved mothballs is also toxic; plants should never be consumed if they are grown in soil contaminated by mothballs. It’s not known how long the contamination remains in the soil.

If you can smell the mothballs you are inhaling vaporized poison. If a child or pet swallows just one mothball it can cause serious problems and the poison hotline should be called immediately. (1-800-222-1222).  The pesticides in mothballs can be absorbed through the skin by children handling them or pets walking on them.  Never put them in pet’s beds or store them with pet food.  Don’t use them in any food area.

Mothballs are a toxic pesticide and should be treated as such.  They are definitely not an organic or safe solution to garden or pest problems.  They are intended to be used in an enclosed area to prevent insects from eating stored clothing. Read the label on the box and follow it.  Even though your grandmother used them all over the house doesn’t mean they are safe. Your grandparents also used DDT without knowing the consequences. And the old wives tale of discouraging animals with mothballs doesn’t work most of the time anyway.

Here’s national pesticide hotline page on toxic effects of mothballs.


Purple Loosestrife- Is it really that bad?

This beautiful but invasive plant has incited controversy since the 1800’s when it was first discovered on the East coast.  Purple Loosestrife, Lythrum salicaria, is native to Eurasia and in its native range has several herbal uses.  Whether it was brought over deliberately for herbal or ornamental use, or arrived in the ballast water of ships or as seeds in the wool of imported sheep we’ll never know.

Before Americans became aware of the invasive nature of Purple Loosestrife, it was often used as an ornamental plant.  Purple loosestrife is often used in water and bog gardens in Europe and is sold in garden shops.  And even here ornamental selections are sometimes offered as garden plants. They are marketed as sterile, but our ever wary evasion biologists warn that these plants are often capable of producing seeds or crossing with wild plants.

In the 50’s conservationists began to get alarmed over how fast Purple Loosestrife was spreading, and it was thought, choking out native wetland plants and displacing food and habitat for native birds, fish and other wetland creatures. Its bright color certainly makes it obvious. Efforts were begun to control and eradicate Purple Loosestrife.

As many a drive down a country road with marshy edges will tell you, the efforts and millions of tax payer dollars used to eradicate Purple Loosestrife haven’t been completely successful.  However, in the 80’s Michigan developed the Purple Loosestrife project, which enlisted the help of school children to help eradicate the plants.  Thousands of imported Galerucella beetles of two species were released as well as a tiny root weevil and a small insect that feeds on the flowers of Purple Loosestrife and disrupts seed formation. 

Purple loosestrife

As with many non-native plants once considered to be invasive, time often restores some equilibrium to the environment.  Today it’s obvious that in many areas of Michigan those natural predators released and changing conditions are controlling the weed.  While clumps of Purple Loosestrife still exist, the vast seas of purple that once clogged nearly every Michigan wetland have largely disappeared.

Purple Loosestrife prefers to grow in wet soil or shallow water in the sun.  It has perennial roots that send up new shoots each spring and each year the clump expands.  The reddish stems grow to about 4 feet high and are covered with pairs or whorls of long narrow leaves, which briefly turn bright red in the fall.  At the top of the plant a spike of small magenta-purple flowers begins blooming in late June in southern Michigan, somewhat later in northern areas and it may continue blooming until frost.

It was once thought that Purple Loosestrife spread by rhizomes (special roots), but current research shows that spread of the plant is primarily by seeds.  A mature Purple Loosestrife plant produces millions of seeds and these float on water, get carried on beaks and feet of water birds, or in the wool and fur of animals to new locations.

Purple Loosestrife has some value as a food or habitat source for our native wetland species of animals.  Some butterflies and bees do visit the flowers in wetland areas, including the monarch.  Some bird species actually prefer purple loosestrife areas, such as red winged blackbirds.  The Wilson Ornithological Society published a study that found at least 10 species of birds in Lake Huron wetlands utilized purple loosestrife stands for nesting. The studies were done close to where I live and I found them quite interesting.  You can read that study here: https://sora.unm.edu/sites/default/files/journals/wilson/v111n01/p0105-p0114.pdf

The study found that insects and other invertebrate prey for birds was similar in wetlands with and without purple loosestrife and that the diversity and abundance of bird species varied by the structure of the wetland plants – whether they were reeds and grasses or shrubby for example – whether or not the species was purple loosestrife or native plants.

My take after examining studies and personal observation is that purple loosestrife is not as bad as some native plant purists would suggest. While it is pretty its growth shouldn’t be encouraged and gardeners should not deliberately plant purple loosestrife in the landscape.  Whether you want to wage war with it in wet areas of your property should it pop up on its own is really your choice. 

I have had purple loosestrife in my large pond for more than 5 years.  It started as a single plant.  There are now 3 plants in the pond.  And ponds close by don’t seem to have any of it.  I don’t know how it got there but I am not going to worry too much about it.  Not all people share my idea that nature knows best- some people get very excited when they spot purple loosestrife and will pester you to remove it. If that kind of thing bothers you then by all means yank it out should it come to your place.

While it’s doubtful we will ever totally eliminate Purple Loosestrife, discouraging ornamental use should keep Purple Loosestrife to isolated and much more appreciated clumps of vivid color along the roads and wetland edges.  Once again already disturbed areas such as ditches near farm fields, polluted water and gravely wet soil along roads favor this plant over native plants, but nature chooses plants best suited for the conditions, whether they are native or not.  To have something pretty growing in these areas which pollinators and birds can utilize may be a bonus.

Let's get green and growing

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

 © Kim Willis

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

For Sale:  I have baby parakeets for sale, hatched this spring $15 each.  They are not hand fed.  Beautiful colors, lutino, (yellow) and shades of pale green, olive green, and sea green.  Some I can sex now, others are a guess.  You’ll need to bring your own cage.  Parakeets are active birds that are a lot of fun to watch.  Call at 989-761-7609.

Also for sale Muscovy ducklings, black laced, about a month old, fine to be without mom but you must buy at least 2.  Two for $20, each additional $8.  Can’t be sexed yet.  Call the number above.  Muscovy are flying ducks, large sized and make good meat ducks.  They do not quack- and are very quiet.



New- Summer is here! Our days are longer and there is more hours of light to enjoy being outdoors. We welcome you to join us: experience nature and be inspired! Back Track To Nature will offer programs on two of Lapeer Land Conservancy properties. As well as at Three Roods Farm and the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary both located in Columbiaville, MI.

We offer environmental education programs for scouts, seniors, homeschoolers, garden clubs, youth groups, retreats, special interest groups and we will tailor programming to fit your specific needs.

Culinary Herbs for Beginners    Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Friday, July 15, 2016         6pm-8pm              $7 per person

Love the taste of herbs in your meals, but the idea of blending your own or using them fresh is a little intimidating? Join Gina Delisi for an introductory tour of culinary herbs! The class will focus on: Fresh Herbs vs. Fresh-Preserved vs. Store bought, When and how much to add to a meal, Failsafe combinations and getting the biggest band for your buck.  Recipes and samples will be shared. We will also be demonstrating how to make herbal infused vinegar, oil and salt. Call Karen at 810-969-1023 to register.

Culinary Herbs, Beyond Basics   Tibbits Nature Sanctuary, Saturday, July 23rd, 2016  0am - 12pm      $10 per person

Variety is the spice of life! We all love Basil, Rosemary and Chives, but sometimes you find yourself wishing for flavors that are new, ethnic and unique, then this class is the answer. We will be covering traditional ethnic spice blends from around the world and focusing on specific herbs that really pack a flavor punch. A few herbs that will be included in this class are: Ginger, Lemongrass, Tamarind, Sassafras, Lovage, Fennel, Sumac, Turmeric and Cardamom.  Samples and examples of herb usage will be provided including Cardamom coffee. Call Karen at 810-969-1023 to register.

Preserving your Herbs - Tibbits Nature Sanctuary Sunday, July 31,2016   10am - 12pm     $5 per person

You've worked all summer on those beautiful herbs, and now the plants are huge and fall is coming quick. Make sure to have plenty of top quality herbs all winter long by beginning to preserve now while your herbs are in their best condition.  Join me for a class that covers every type of herb preservation. Freezing, MANY ways of drying, oil & vinegar infusions, herbal broths, herbal liquors and herbal salts.  Pros and Cons of each technique will also be covered. I will be demonstrating many techniques. Bring your questions! Call Karen at 810-969-1023 to register.

Other programs include: Riseman Refuge and Polly Ann Trail  Bike Ride  6pm ­ 8pm Wednesday, July 20, 2016,   
Make a Nature Journal  Tibbits Nature SanctuaryThursday, July 21, 2016,  4pm - 6pm, $5 per person,
Writing in Nature   Tibbits Nature Sanctuary, Thursday, July 21, 2016,6pm - 8pm $5 per person,
Walking Meditation   Tibbits  Nature Sanctuary, Thursday, July 21, 2016  8pm - 9pm  $5 per person
Death Cafe    Tibbits Nature Sanctuary   Saturday, July 23, 2016       1pm - 3pm    $7 per person
A Council of All Beings 10:30am - 4:30pm,Saturday, August 6, 2016      Three Roods Farm
A Great Hundred Acre Wood Adventure  ( Kids program)   2pm - 3pm Sunday, August 14,2016      Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Aldo Leopold Bench Building Workshop    1:30pm - 4:30pm, Saturday, August 27, 2016     Tibbits Nature Sanctuary

Reservations are needed for all programs listed. Please call or  email Karen at 810-969-1023 and pagekp@gmail.com  Directions to the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary and Riseman Refuge will be given at the time of registration. Thank you!


Master Gardeners of St Clair County Annual Garden Tour- Sat, July 16, 10am-4pm, Marysville, MI.
         
This tour sponsored by Master Gardeners of St Clair County takes place at 9 diverse gardens. Cost is $15. For more info: gina92pj@comcast.net.  Or 586-727-2563.

42nd Annual Troy Garden Walk: Poetic Gardens- Wed, July 13, 9:30am-3pm and  5pm-8:30pm, Troy Historic Village, 60 W Wattles Rd, Troy, MI.

Tour 7 private gardens and the Troy Historic Village for only $10. More Info: www.TroyGardenClubMI.com,  248-952-5938

Native Plants & Beneficial Insects, Tue, July 19, 6:30-8:30pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

Pollinator Preservation Strategies for the Home Garden: Native Plants and Their Unique Relationships with Beneficial Insects

Want to help out our native pollinators and other beneficial insects? Through plant selection, garden design and maintenance protocols, we can provide a haven not only for our beautiful butterflies and moths but also other critical beneficial species, from bees to beetles. Cheryl English, speaker, is an Advanced Master Gardener of Wayne County, Michigan; a Master Composter of Macomb County; the owner/operator of Black Cat Pottery/The English Landscape, a contributing writer to Michigan Gardener Magazine; a board member of the Wildflower Association of Michigan; she’s on the planning committee of the Detroit Garden Center; and is President Emeritus of the Master Gardeners of Greater Detroit. Cost is $25. More info: http://tollgate.msu.edu/events.

MSU Garden Day Sat, August 6, 8am-4:15 pm, MSU Horticulture Gardens, 1066 Bogue St, East Lansing, MI
At this conference you will be able to select your favorite garden-themed workshops and enjoy two keynote presentations by David Culp. Pre- registration is $86 until 7/25 Go to http://www.hrt.msu.edu. To see the class selections and register.


Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information

If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.


I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com

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