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Tuesday, May 17, 2016

May 17, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

May 17, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners

After snow on Sunday morning we are finally getting into better weather.  The lilacs are beginning to bloom here, creeping phlox is in bloom, and the tulips still look fairly nice.  It’s hard but I think we still need to be a little patient with the tender plants.  I suggest waiting until after the full moon which is on Saturday; I think the long range forecast looks good after that.  But we never know for sure especially up my way.   It got down to 30 degrees Sunday night here.  I have checked my apple trees and I don’t see any freeze damage on the blooms but some things may have been damaged.

The orioles have been out in force around here.  I have 6-8 at the feeder sometimes.  I am also seeing rose breasted grosbeaks.  The hummers are around now too.  I made the mistake of putting a hummingbird feeder over some of my pretty tulips in front of the house and the raccoons tried to get at it.  They broke off many tulips which made me quite mad.  I moved the feeder away from the plants but I would rather move raccoons.

What’s available at the farm markets now?   Most types of greens, radishes, green onions, chives, leeks, rhubarb, and asparagus.  Tunnel grown strawberries may be  coming into markets in southern parts of the state. There are lots of annuals and herb plants being offered at most places.

I participated in the plant swap the Lapeer Horticulture Society held last night and came home with a number of plants.  If you have never been to a plant swap there are a list of them at the end of the newsletter you might want to attend.  It’s fun and you never know what you will find.  Some swaps have rules, others don’t.  In most cases you take your excess plants to a location, and there is some sort of lottery or you are issued tickets to choose plants that others have brought.  If you can dig your plants and pot them in something – it doesn’t have to be pretty- a few days to a few weeks before the swap.  Keep them well watered.  Try to label them with a name- even if it’s a common name.

When you choose plants at a swap realize that some of them may look a bit wilted, but most recover with good care.  They may not be in a good pot or even potted at all but you can either pot them or plant them in the garden.  Ask questions if you don’t know anything about the plant but be prepared to come home and look up information.

Microclimates- what they are- what they mean

Most gardeners are aware of what planting zone they are in. (If you don’t know your planting zone please go to this article to learn about them: http://www.examiner.com/article/how-to-find-your-garden-zone
Knowing your planting zone lets you select plants that are hardy in your area but every gardener should also know about microclimates and how they impact the plants in your garden.

Microclimates are small areas within a larger planting zone that have different characteristics than the zone as a whole.  They may be warmer or colder.  And microclimates can also refer to whether the area is dry or wet, and whether it is sheltered from the wind.  You may have several microclimates on one piece of property.  A large city may constitute a microclimate within a planting zone and within that city different yards may have different microclimates. 

Microclimates are created when some feature of the landscape changes weather conditions.  It could be lots of pavement and buildings which trap heat or a low, moist area that cold air sinks into. It could be a courtyard or a wall or solid fence or a pond, things that affect the air and soil conditions.  Shade and exposure to sun and wind also define microclimates.

To give your plants the best possible growing conditions a gardener needs to be aware of microclimates. Gardeners in northern areas are generally happy when they find a microclimate spot that lets them grow plants that might not be quite cold hardy in their area- they like warmer microclimates.  Those in warmer areas may like microclimates that allow plants that don’t like heat to be happier.

The areas near a large body of water are generally cooler in the spring and warmer in the fall than the surrounding areas. This may be helpful to keep some things like fruit trees from blooming too soon and extending the time in the fall that fruit has to ripen.  The cherry industry on Michigan’s west coast takes advantage of that microclimate along Lake Michigan.

How do you find microclimates on your property?  Careful observation and educated hunches are your tools.  Spots where snow or frost doesn’t melt until long after other areas are cold microclimates. Soil still frozen after other areas have thawed indicates a cold area. Areas where water pools in the spring and fall are generally cooler areas.  Hollows, dips, valleys, ditches, all lower spots are generally cooler than the surrounding area.  The north side of a slope/bank is cooler.  Watch for plants that emerge later or bloom later than those in other areas.

Areas where plants emerge and bloom sooner than surrounding plants may be warm microclimates.  A dark colored house or house foundation, stone walls or dark pavement in full sun absorbs heat and stays warmer through the night.  You may see dandelions or chickweed blooming there long before they bloom in more exposed areas. Raised beds, and elevated, well drained areas are often warmer than other places.  Nooks and alcoves, courtyards, islands in paved areas

Summer microclimates can be important for some plants as well as winter microclimates.  Areas that are very hot and humid in the summer may not suit some plants as well as areas that may be just as hot but drier. And some plants need and thrive in high humidity.  Some nurseries have attempted to define summer hardiness zones as well as winter hardiness zones.  If you find plants labeled with heat hardiness ratings pay attention and do your homework to see if your type of heat is suitable for that plant.

Lighter colored house walls or fences may reflect so much sun back onto plants that they burn them or dry the soil out quickly.  Areas surrounded by pavement may get very warm in summer. Rocky, sandy soil heats up and dries out quickly.  Some plants will not thrive in that microclimate.  Too much heat can be as bad as too little in many cases.  But careful plant selection can generally find a compatible plant for the conditions.

If you are a gardener who longs to grow a plant that’s not supposed to be winter hardy in your area you may want to look around your property for a warmer microclimate.  Don’t expect to grow oranges outside in Michigan; at best you will probably raise the survival rate by one zone, unless you build a heated greenhouse.  For example if your planting zone is rated zone 6 and you want a plant whose hardiness is rated zone 7 to overwinter in your yard, you could plant it against the south wall of the house in full sun in light, sandy soil.  You may need to mulch some plants (lavender doesn’t like heavy mulch) deeply to help them survive.  Or you could put up a hoop house or unheated greenhouse to protect plants a bit.

A food gardener who has an exposed, low area for a garden spot may want to enclose it with a solid or slatted fence and use raised beds to provide a better microclimate.  That’s especially true if the soil is heavy clay.  Most food gardens in wide open areas can benefit from some kind of windbreak on the north and west sides.  Creating a favorable microclimate gets you gardening faster in the spring and lets your crops have a longer growing season.

Soil moisture levels also define microclimates.  Areas that don’t drain well, are boggy or swampy can occur within property that is generally well drained.  In those areas you’ll need to select plants whose root systems can thrive in wet soil.  This can bring some interesting plants into your garden.  Or you can improve the drainage in some way and eliminate the odd conditions.  Remember wet spots are often cooler than surrounding areas too.

Remember that microclimates can change over time, fences get removed, windbreaks grow tall and provide too much shade, drainage patterns may change and so on and you may need to change the plant species that grow there too.  Sometimes a less than hardy plant for your zone will survive one or two winters because the temperatures were warmer than normal- we’ll see this more as the climate warms- but then die when we have a “normal” winter.  In that case you didn’t really have a microclimate.

Not everyone has a spot on their property to “cheat” a growing zone.  When selecting plants whose hardiness is less than your growing zone rating be prepared to lose it.  It doesn’t hurt to take a chance, as long as you can afford the loss.   If you suspect your garden may have a bit of a cool microclimate choose plants whose hardiness rating is one or more zones lower than yours.  For example if you are in zone 5 you may want to choose plants that are hardy to zone 4.

When a new plant or plant variety comes on the market the zone hardiness may not be precisely defined yet.  It may take growing it in many locations by many people for a few years to define its hardiness.  Experimenting and reporting on your experiences can help other gardeners make better choices.

Mayapples, Maypops

The Mayapple, or May pop (Podophyllum peltatum) is a wildflower that makes an excellent plant for woodland gardens and shady areas.  In late April and May in zones 5-6 the large leaves emerge like large green umbrellas in native forests across much of eastern North America from artic Canada to Florida.  Mayapple is the source of much folklore and other common names are American Mandrake and Ground Lemon, Devil’s Apple, Hog-apple, Indian Apple, Racoonberry, Wild Lemon and Witches Umbrella.
 
Mayapple foliage
Mayapples have a thick light green stalk about 20 inches high from which two leaves generally emerge.  The leaves are compound, palmate, with 3-9 but generally 6 leaf segments.  The segments have a notch at the tip and serrated edges.  When the leaves first emerge they hang like a closed umbrella but as the plant matures the leaves become more like an open umbrella.  Leaves can be 9 inches across or more.  If a plant has a single leaf stalk it is infertile and won’t produce fruit.

The Mayapple flower is white to pale rose with 6-9 petals, gold stamens, and mildly fragrant.  It hides in the leaf axil, under the leaves. Mayapple’s require cross pollination to make fruit and bumble bees and a few other native bees are the usual pollinators.  The flower turns into a 1 ½ inch lemon shaped fruit which is yellow and soft when ripe. The fruit contains several seeds and is eaten by box turtles and small mammals.  The ripe fruit is the only part of the plant that is not poisonous.

Mayapple has dark brown, jointed rhizomous roots. It is dependent on mycorrhizae in woodland soil to help it take up water and nutrients.  It forms colonies by new plants arising from rhizomes. It can spread quickly and aggressively when it’s happy in a spot.  It also reproduces by seed.  These require immediate planting after being removed from the fruit and at least 3 months of cold, moist conditions to sprout.  They take several years to mature and bloom.

Mayapples prefer light shade or dappled shade under deciduous trees where the soil is high in organic matter and on the sandy side.  They tolerate moderate dryness, and do not do well in soggy soil or heavy clay.  They don’t require fertilization if the soil is allowed to accumulate organic matter.

The leaves of mayapple are sometimes damaged by late frost.  They may get a fungal “rust”, in some locations.  It’s normal for the plant to die back in late summer or very hot weather and seem to disappear.  Mayapples are long lived perennials however.

Cautions- medicinal and other uses

Mayapples are extremely poisonous and although there are many Native American herbal remedies involving parts of the plants only the most experienced herbalists should experiment with them.  Plant parts, including seeds, have been used for both murder and suicide.  It is a strong purgative- you’ll vomit and have severe diarrhea – which used to be a “remedy” for many things.  It is not recommended that the plant be consumed at all.  Overdose can cause heart failure and failure of the liver and kidneys and an awful, painful death.

People do make jam or jelly from the ripe fruit.  Some people even consume it like an apple.  But the flavor is nothing special, it’s described as overripe melon with a sour lemon tang, and you must take care not to consume any seeds, which are very poisonous.  There are far tastier and safe fruits to make jams and jellies from. Leave mayapple fruits for wildlife.
Mayapple flower

The plant does have chemicals which inhibit cell growth and mayapple has been studied as a treatment for several types of cancer.  It has many serious side effects though, and it’s not currently being used except experimentally.

The best use for mayapples is not as an herbal remedy but as an unusual plant for the wooded or natural garden.  The umbrella leaves are attractive in spring, even though the flowers are hard to see.   And they are food for bumblebees, turtles and other creatures.  Enjoy them without having to find a “use” for them.

Cooking and preserving rhubarb

Rhubarb is a great sweet-tart spring treat.  It’s available in Michigan farm markets beginning in May and of course, you can grow your own rhubarb. For how to grow rhubarb see this article.  www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/growing-rhubarb
If harvesting your own cut it with a sharp knife near the stem base and don’t remove more than 1/3 of the stalks each season.  Stop harvesting when plants flower, usually mid -June in Michigan.

Rhubarb stalks are the only safe part of the plant to eat; the plants contain high amounts of oxalic acid.  The stem color of rhubarb varies from bright cherry red to greenish red, depending on variety.  Many people just like to munch on a crispy tart stalk and that’s fine.  This article will give you some ideas on how to cook and preserve the rhubarb harvest.

Some people leave the ‘skin” on when cooking rhubarb, others prefer to carefully skin the stalks. You can usually remove the “skin” with your fingers, it strips right off.  The peel often pulls away in attractive curls that can be used for garnishes.  Tender young stalks won’t need peeling.  Always wash rhubarb before proceeding with a recipe.

Rhubarb pairs beautifully with strawberries and pineapple.  You substitute rhubarb pieces in any zucchini bread or cake recipe.  That’s a good reason to freeze some rhubarb chunks, in case the zucchini crop fails.

Cooked Rhubarb Sauce
         
          * Rhubarb stalks, washed
          * sugar
         
Cut the rhubarb stalks into 1/2 inch slices.  Measure your pieces. Put in a sauce pan.  Add 1/2 cup of sugar for every 2 cups of rhubarb pieces.   Toss the mixture with a spoon.  You can adjust the sweetness to suit you.  Let the rhubarb and sugar sit until you notice some fluid being drawn out of the rhubarb, probably 30 minutes.  Then heat the rhubarb and sugar until gently boiling.  Cook, stirring often, until the rhubarb pieces soften, about 5 minutes.

Use the sauce on pound cake slices or over vanilla ice cream.

Cooking rhubarb for use in pies and cakes

Cut the rhubarb in 1/2 slices.  Fill a metal strainer or colander with pieces.  Get a large pot of water boiling.  Immerse strainer or colander with rhubarb pieces in it for 2-3 minutes.  Drain and use in recipe.

Freezing rhubarb

Blanch rhubarb in boiling water as above, but only immerse for 1 minute.  Dip colander into a large pot of cold water immediately.  Let drain.  Pack into freezer safe containers and freeze.

Canning rhubarb

Follow the directions above for rhubarb sauce.  It takes about 2 cups of rhubarb pieces for each pint jar. As soon as rhubarb is removed from the stove, pour it into clean pint jars to 1/2 inch from rims.  Remove bubbles by gently running a knife through filled jars.  Clean the rims and apply lids.  Process the jars in a water bath canner for 15 minutes. 


Rhubarb and pineapple cake recipe

This cake is fairly easy to prepare and tastes delicious.  You could frost it, but it’s great with a scoop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, especially while warm.  It’s not as sweet as some cakes, but soft, moist and flavorful. This makes a good potluck dessert, something different.  Rhubarb and pineapple cake also freezes well.

          * 2 cups of peeled, sliced rhubarb
          * 3/4 cup of sugar
          * 3 tablespoons butter (or margarine)
          * 1 yellow cake mix
          * 1 20 oz. can of unsweetened crushed pineapple, don’t drain.
          * 3 eggs

Grease a 13x9 inch cake pan.  Preheat oven to 350. 

In a microwave safe bowl combine rhubarb and sugar.  Cover bowl and microwave on high for about 3 minutes.  The rhubarb should look like the consistency of the crushed pineapple. 

Add the butter to the rhubarb bowl and let it melt.  In the meantime combine the cake mix, 3 eggs and can of pineapple in a big bowl.  Pour in the rhubarb-butter mixture.

Beat with the electric beaters until the cake mix and other ingredients are well combined, about 2 minutes.  Pour into greased pan and bake for about 35 minutes- until a knife inserted comes out clean.  Cool slightly and serve.

How to plant a tree properly

Bare root, balled and burlapped or potted trees all respond well to planting when the weather is cool and wet.  Early May is still fine for bare-root trees that have been well cared for and balled or potted trees and shrubs can be planted until late September if they are well cared for as they acclimate to a new spot.

Unfortunately many old ideas about tree planting still exist among people who work in landscaping nurseries and garden stores.  Research done at places such as Michigan State University has helped us better understand the process a tree goes through when it has to re-establish itself after transplanting.  The newer advice, backed by research, helps ensure that your trees will get off to a better start and continue to grow for many, many years.  Here are some things that you should do or have your landscaper do, to get those new trees off to a healthy start.

This advice is for trees planted in the landscape, as ornamental or fruiting trees.  A re-forestation project, involving hundreds of small seedlings requires some adjustments to technique, although following the advice below would give your trees a great start.

Don’t soak the tree roots for long

Do not put bare root trees in a pail of water for longer than an hour. You can moisten the packing material or wrap a bare root tree in some moistened paper, for holding for a day or two.  Keep them in a cool place.  Try not to hold bare root trees for more than a few days before planting.  Soaking the roots too long will rot them and the tree will probably die.

Make sure trees in pots or ball and burlapped are watered, but not too wet.  They must be able to drain well.  Do not sit pots or root balls directly in water.

Preparing the hole

Prepare a hole three times as wide, but no deeper than the root ball.  If the tree is bare-root when you buy it, look at the trunk for a dark “ring” area to show you the level the tree was growing at before it was dug for the depth of your hole.  If it’s hard to determine the original growing level look for the highest root and make the hole just deep enough that the top root will be about an inch under the soil.

Contrary to what most people think, most types of trees have root systems that remain in the top three feet of soil.  Even if they are a species that has a deeper tap root, that root grows more slowly than lateral roots when first transplanted.  The tree needs to send out lateral, (side) roots so that it can start grabbing water and minerals to support new top growth and it needs to stabilize itself so it doesn’t topple in the wind.   Having loose soil in a wide area around the root system is the key to faster establishment.

Planting at the right depth

Trees that are not planted at the right depth may grow, although some species are fussier about this than others.  But the tree may be in for a lifetime of problems if it wasn’t planted at the optimum level.  If you look at a mature tree that was planted at the right depth it will be wider at the bottom, the wider part is called a root flare.  Trees planted too deeply will have trunks that appear to be straight, without widening, right to the ground.  A trunk that flares at the bottom is stronger and able to withstand wind better.  Trees that were planted too shallow usually don’t survive to maturity.  

You get a tree planted at the right level by looking for that top root.   The highest root branching off the main root on the tree should be just below the ground, about 1 inch below it.  On some very small bare root trees you may need to look closely at the main root to see where branching is beginning.  

To see the top branching root is in a balled and burlapped tree you need to remove the burlap.  That will be covered in more detail below.   When trees are put into burlap roots may be twisted up higher than they were growing and soil piled up above that.  You need to uncover the root system in that ball to see where the top root naturally lies.  With a potted tree you can usually line up the soil surface at the top of the pot with the ground level where you are planting it.  You will, of course, be removing the pot.

Removing anything that isn’t “tree”

Once the tree is in the hole at the right level everything must be removed from around the root system.  Here is where many landscapers balk at the new recommendations that say all burlap, wire cages and even so called peat pots must be removed before filling in the hole.  You can leave the burlap on the root ball until it’s in the hole - where you can cut away most of it- but it should be removed.  There are a couple of good reasons to do this.   So called peat pots must be removed before the roots are placed in the hole.

Modern “burlap” is often composed of synthetic materials that really don’t break down quickly in soil.   Tree roots may still be contained in those packages years after planting.  That’s not a good thing because the roots need to spread out to support new top growth.  And any burlap that gets exposed to the air wicks moisture away from tree roots.  Peat pots are even worse at restricting root spreading.  Trees need to get those lateral roots growing the first few months after planting, not years down the line.

And you need to inspect that root system before you fill the hole, another reason to remove burlap.  Roots that have circled around and around in pots or burlap balls will continue to grow in circles after being placed into the ground.  This may eventually strangle the tree, even years after planting.  And as mentioned above, you need to know where the top branching root is to properly place the root system.

Girdling roots
Make sure all strings, wire, rope etc. are also removed from the roots and also the trunk and branches of a tree.  As a tree grows these things cut through the area that transports food and water and any parts above the constricting item will die.

Helping roots grow right

When planting trees never wrap a root around the hole- spread it out horizontally.  If it’s really too long, trim it off to fit the hole, but never spiral it around the hole.  When you see those roots that have circled the pot as described above, they must be loosened before replacing soil.   If you can loosen them with your fingers and spread them out that’s a sign the circling wasn’t too advanced.   Good nurseries either root trim or repot trees to keep them from getting root bound.

If the roots are thickly layered at the bottom of the pot or root ball or around the sides you’ll need to trim them.  If it’s just at the bottom, trim off the circling roots, making a slice across the bottom an inch or so deep.  Then slightly flare out the remaining soil and roots.  If roots are really circled heavily up the side of the pot make several cuts length wise through the roots, as well as trimming the bottom, and hope for the best.

Roots that are circling when planted will probably continue to spiral around the main root or trunk.  This may eventually kill the tree by choking off the supply of water and food, sometimes years after planting. 

Spread roots sideways in the planting hole, except for any central main root.   Don’t squish all the roots down vertically into the hole.   Any larger roots that are broken can be trimmed.

Refill with what you removed

You’ll see the signs advising you to buy amendments and the sales staff may try to convince you, but don’t buy peat or topsoil or anything else to add to the planting soil as you plant your tree.  Research has shown that trees establish better if the hole is refilled with what you took out.  After all that is the soil that the tree will be living in after it grows through your small amended area.  It is easier for the tree to adapt to new conditions if it starts right away and it doesn’t have to re-adjust its root system when it grows through the amendments and into the surrounding soil.

Holes filled with “good stuff” may hold too much moisture next to roots, especially if you throw a bag of peat into heavy clay soil.  The roots sit in water and rot.  And trees may not extend their roots quickly into surrounding soil if it’s easier to grow roots inside an amended area.  This can lead to circling roots, with the tree being strangled or to a poorly established root system that can’t support the tree in a wind storm or through a drought.

You can add a little slow release fertilizer to the soil you are going to backfill with.  Don’t throw it in the hole, mix it through the soil you removed then refill the hole.  And never add Epsom salt to the hole, or surrounding soil.

Don’t prune and don’t stake- usually

It’s not necessary to remove one third of the tree as some older advice may lead you to believe.  Research has shown the tree needs top growth to make food so the root system can grow. Prune off any broken branches and any branches that cross or rub each other, that’s all.  You can shape the tree once it has established itself, usually after one growing season.

Most new trees should not be staked.  They grow stronger trunks and wider root systems if the tree is allowed to sway in the wind.  There are some exceptions.  New evergreens planted in the fall or in high wind areas may need to be staked for one growing season.  Some ornamental weeping trees will need to be staked at least for a growing season, some for much longer.  If you do stake a tree check the ropes several times a year to make sure they are not cutting into the tree.

Don’t over water and don’t over mulch

Yes, newly planted trees need to be well watered at planting and they should be watered when needed during the first growing season to get them off to a good start.  But their roots don’t need to be constantly soaked.   In really hot weather and in sandy soil trees may need watering frequently but in most situations a good watering once a week the first season will be enough.

Mulch is good for trees, but it shouldn’t actually touch the tree trunk.  Rot and disease can start where decomposing mulch touches trees.  And never use more than 3 inches of mulch.  Too much mulch absorbs or sheds water before it gets to the soil and it prevents oxygen from reaching tree roots.  To get water and air tree roots may grow up into the mulch instead of down into the soil, which isn’t good for the tree. 

A little care taken during tree planting will do a lot to prevent tree failure.  A tree may leaf out and appear to grow the first season or even several seasons but failure of a tree in the first three years after planting is often due to poor planting procedures. When contracting with a nursery or landscaper to plant your trees make sure they are willing to follow your directions and plant properly.  You are the customer.  If they say your warranty is void if you remove burlap for example, you may want to use another company.   They may replace the tree but you will have lost valuable growing time if it needs to be replaced.  And unfortunately the tree may not start to decline until the warranty is up.

Life is short- get out and smell the flowers- and plant a tree.

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

New- Butterflies of Holliday Nature Preserve, Saturday, May 21, 2016, 1:00 – 2:30 pm Nankin Mills Nature Center - 33175 Ann Arbor Trail, Westland, MI 48185
Michigan is home to many beautiful species of butterflies. Learn how to recognize them throughout their different life stages and also learn what plants you can add to your landscape to attract them to your yard. We will visit the Butterfly Garden at Nankin Mills after the presentation. Fee: $3.00 per person, Add $1 for out-of-Wayne county residence. Recommended for ages 12 and up. More info phone:(734) 261-1990


New- Herb swap, May 21st, 11 am at the Watertower park, Lapeer.
Lapeer Herb Circle is sponsoring an herb plant swap.  Bring your excess and swap for new things.  Even if you don’t have things to swap show up and get some herbs for your garden.  The Watertower park is on the North edge of Lapeer, close to McLaren regional hospital.

Native Plant Sale, Sat, May 21, 9-11:30 am, St Clair Shores Library, 22500 E 11 Mile Rd, St Clair Shores, MI

Sponsored by Yardeners at St Clair Shores Library. Attract birds, butterflies & bees with natives.  More information: scsyardeners@gmail.com.

MSU Annual Plant Sale, Sat, May 21, 7am-2pm, MSU Horticulture Gardens, 1066 Bogue St, East Lansing, MI
Annuals, perennials, shrubs, vegetables, herbs, houseplants, hanging baskets, & combo pots.  For more info:  www.hrt.msu.edu.

Annual Perennial Plant Sale Sat, May 28, 10am-1pm, 1535 N Hickory Rd, Owosso, MI
         
Sponsored by Shaiwassee Co. Master Gardeners. Plants for both shade & sun with expert gardeners to answer questions.   More info: joannemkenyon@yahoo.com.

Novi Spring Perennial Exchange Sat, May 28, 9am-Noon, Fuerst Park, 45175 10 Mile Rd, Novi, MI

Sponsored by Novi Beautification Commission at Fuerst Park. FREE. Perennial exchange. Bring plants to share and make new gardening friends. 248-735-5621.

Mushroom Cultivation Sat, May 21, 10am, 132 W Lafayette Blvd, Detroit, MI.
Sponsored by The Greening of Detroit at Lafayette Greens. Take this 2 hour class to learn how to cultivate mushrooms.   More info: education@greeningofdetroit.com.

Harnessing Mother Nature’s Workforce—Beneficial Insects Fri, May 20, 9:15 am, Meadow Brook Hall, 480 S Adams Rd, Rochester, MI
Learn to recognize & maximize Mother Nature’s natural pest control. Sponsored by MBGC at Meadow Brook Hall. Cost $5. For more info call  2483646210, or MBHGCMembers@gmail.com.

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


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