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Tuesday, May 24, 2016

May 24, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

May 24, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis


Hi Gardeners


Get ready, set, grow! It’s setting up to be a perfect planting weekend.  Temperatures look warm if not hot through the end of the month now; it’s likely most of us in zone 5-6 have passed the last frost.  However it’s not unheard of to have frost in early June in upper zone 5 so keep listening to the weather reports as we pass this warmer period.  But generally it should be safe to plant tomatoes, all your annuals and just about anything else in the next few days.  I would wait another week or two before moving the houseplants and other tropical plants out though.

Not only will it be warm, but potentially wet, and we need some rain at this point.  I planted sweet corn this week but the soil was really dry.  A good soaking rain is what we need to get it growing.  Rainy weather, with some cloud cover, helps get transplants off to a good start as long as we can get outside between the storms to plant them.  If we don’t get much cloud cover it always helps to shade transplants like tomatoes and peppers for a day or two.  You can use a single sheet of newspaper like a teepee.  My grandfather used to make newspaper “hats” for his tomatoes.  And make sure to keep things watered if we don’t get good soaking rain.

This time of the year always feels rushed to me but the cold spring backed up some of my usual projects as well as me being sick most of last week, so it feels like a marathon of planting ahead for me.  I can’t keep up with the weeding even though my husband has been helping.  I start to plant something, see weeds, and before you know it have spent an hour weeding and cleaning up when I should be planting.  And I still need to get to the greenhouse for a few more things.

The lilacs are in full glorious bloom, the bearded irises are beginning to bloom, the alliums, and the dame’s rocket.  I call this the purple time of the year because a lot of things blooming seem to be that color.  The pink of the bleeding hearts is a welcome contrast.  I have green onions to harvest and the lettuce is growing well so harvest should begin soon on that. 

The rhubarb is in bloom, I think rhubarb makes a great ornamental plant.  My strawberries have set fruit and I need to find time to get some netting around them.  Maybe I’ll get more than the birds- although I say that every year and it seems I have to compete with everything for them. 

My paw-paw tree is blooming this year; I won’t get fruit because the one I bought to pollinate it died years ago.  It took the tree 10 years to grow from 3 feet to 8 feet.  I have thought of buying another but I don’t know if it will get big enough, fast enough for me to ever see fruit.  The flowers are interesting, little dangling maroon cups.  I’ll get a picture and show it next week if possible.

Birds are definitely nesting.  They are going through lots of suet, many species love to feed suet to their young and if you keep suet out this time of year you’ll see a lot of birds.  Keep the hummingbird feeders filled too.  We had baby ducks hatch this week, and I have both baby parakeets and canaries in the house.  There are lots of noisy babies begging for food around here.

I have a solar powered butterfly that flits around on my deck.  It’s blue which may be why I looked out Sunday morning and saw a bluebird sitting on the post that holds it.  Hopefully they will nest in one of my boxes again this year.   

The frogs are still singing, and the turtles are crossing the road- see the article below.  I saw a fawn this week.  Baby kittens are showing up in the barn.  It sure looks like summer is here.

With warm humid weather comes the possibility of storms.  Keep an eye on the sky and the weather report.  And get inside if you see lightning.  Mosquitoes are out in force now so use that repellant too.

Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis, is an old fashioned charmer that belongs in every garden.  It’s charming and also deer resistant, a great combination for most gardeners.  Bleeding heart is also known as Dutchman’s breeches or trousers. Bleeding heart has been reclassified in some references as Lamprocapnos spectabilis


Classic bleeding heart has clusters of 1-2 inch pink and white heart shaped flowers with a little upward curl on each side at the bottom.  Flowers dangle along tall stems over fern-like blue-green foliage.  Bleeding heart blooms in early spring about the time mid-season tulips and daffodils bloom and in cool springs may continue blooming through June.  Some newer varieties will re-bloom several times if kept moist.

Gardeners will find bleeding heart offered in the catalogs and stores as bare root plants and as potted plants. If bare root they can be planted in the spring as soon as the soil has thawed.  Potted plants already blooming should be planted out about the time forsythia blooms.  Bleeding heart is hardy to zone 4, which makes it safe for most of Michigan.

There are now varieties of bleeding heart that have white or red flowers and even a variety with lighter, yellow green foliage. Some of the newer, more sun tolerant varieties of bleeding heart have more tubular shaped flowers rather than heart shaped flowers. 

King of Hearts’ is a red flowered, heat tolerant hybrid.  ‘Aurora’ is a white flowered variety.   Rosy pink ‘Bacchanal’ is said to be the most sun and heat tolerant bleeding heart.  “Gold Heart’ is the variety with golden leaves.

Old fashioned bleeding heart can get to 2 feet tall in a favorable spot but many new varieties are more compact and get 15 -18 inches high.  Clumps slowly enlarge over the years.  Give bleeding heart plenty of room so it can develop its graceful arching form.

Traditional bleeding heart likes to be under deciduous trees where it will get some sunlight in early spring but then be shaded when the trees leaf out.  Newer varieties on the market will take some sun later in the season if they are kept moist.  Still, a partly shaded to light shade location is the preferred planting spot.

Bleeding heart prefers a rich, moist organic soil.  If the soil is good fertilization probably isn’t necessary.   A nice layer of leaf mulch or finely shredded bark would keep the soil moist and cool around the plant’s roots.

Keeping bleeding heart plants well-watered will ensure the best show of flowers.  If the plants are subjected to too much heat and dry out they will go dormant and the foliage will die back to the ground.  This tends to happen to older varieties anyway by mid-summer.  They generally return in the spring when conditions are better, so don’t forget to mark their spot.

To prolong bloom and encourage repeat bloom in some of the newer varieties keep bleeding heart flowers trimmed off as they fade.

Leaf miners are bleeding hearts biggest pest.  These tiny worm-like critters leave white trails across the leaves.  A systemic insecticide could be used on the plants but the miners seldom do any serious damage to the plants health.

Bleeding Heart mixes well with spring bulbs and shade lovers like hosta and heuchera.  It is a cottage garden staple but looks good in any shady location.

Growing Tomatoes

If you are a vegetable gardener chances are you are growing tomatoes.  There is nothing like the taste of a vine ripened tomato - those hard supermarket things sold as tomatoes are no match.   And tomatoes are an easy start for beginning vegetable gardeners.  They can even be grown in containers and hanging baskets.

Tomatoes are native to South America.  When they were brought back to Europe by early explorers they were first grown as ornamental plants and were considered to be poisonous. And all parts of the plant except the fruit are poisonous.   It took many years before they became part of local cuisine but now most countries of the world have popular dishes that feature tomatoes.

Tomatoes are actually tender perennials and in tropical zones or a sunny greenhouse they can grow for several years.  Most Michigan gardeners however, treat them as annuals; planting them after the last frost in the area and letting the first hard frost kill them.  

Tomato flower
Tomato flowers are yellow shooting star like blooms that occur in clusters. Tomatoes can be pollinated by insects or by vibration of the plants which knocks pollen off to land on nearby flowers. Tomato fruit starts off green and although red tomatoes are the most familiar and the most popular, ripe tomato fruit can be any color but blue. 

The stems of tomato plants have the ability to produce roots from tiny bump like nodes anywhere the stems touch the soil.  Tomato plants can be anywhere from 2 feet high to over 6 feet high.  The leaves of tomatoes are somewhat variable.  There are two main types- normal and potato leafed.  A few unusual leaf forms do exist.  Indeterminate tomato plants keep growing and producing fruit until killed by frost but determinate plants, reach a set size then ripen all of their fruit in a short time.  If you want to learn about all those catalog and plant tag abbreviations and the specifics of tomato lingo read this article: http://www.examiner.com/article/learn-how-to-talk-tomato-like-a-pro

Tomato connoisseurs will tell you that each variety of tomato has a slightly different taste. What all varieties have in common is that the best tomato flavor develops when fruit is allowed to ripen on the vine.  However, tomatoes are different from many other vegetables and fruit in that they will continue to ripen after picking, if the fruit is mature size and just starting to change color when picked.

Tomato culture

Most Michigan gardeners buy transplants to plant in the garden after the soil is warm and there is no danger of frost.  Choose tomato plants with dark green leaves that are sturdy looking.  Plants in cell packs should not have blooms or fruit, these plants are stressed.  If the plant is in a large container it is fine if it has blooms and fruit. If tomato plants you bought or grew are tall and lanky, you can bury the stem of the tomato up to the second set of leaves and the stem will develop roots.

You can also start tomato seeds. Plant the seeds indoors about 6 weeks before you expect your last frost.  Plant the seeds in sterile seed starting mix and keep them warm- above 70 degrees for best germination. Tomato seedlings need the brightest light possible, a sunny greenhouse or windowsill or grow lights.   After all danger of frost has passed, choose a shady day to transplant into the garden or shade the plants with something for a few days and keep well-watered. 

Tomatoes like rich, loose soil and must have full sun for best fruit development.   The location where you plant tomatoes should be changed every year to avoid the build-up of soil borne disease. Tomatoes should never be planted where the roots of a Black Walnut tree may invade their root space, as this will kill them.  They are also heavy feeders, and using a fertilizer formulated for tomatoes is recommended. Here’s an in depth article on how to plant tomatoes: http://www.examiner.com/list/how-to-plant-tomatoes

Tomatoes have less disease problems and take less space if they are caged or staked.  Use sturdy cages or use stakes and tie the plants to them.  Put the stakes or cages in when you plant the tomatoes to avoid injuring the plant later.  Prune off any branches or leaves that touch the ground.   If you do allow the plants to sprawl on the ground, mulch under the plants with plastic or straw and leave at least 3 foot of space between plants and 4 foot between rows.

Always water tomatoes at the base of the plant and try to avoid getting foliage wet.  This helps prevent fungal diseases.  Water the tomatoes early enough in the day so that foliage dries before dark.  Water deeply once a week rather than frequently, but if plants wilt and the soil feels dry, they should be watered regardless of how long it’s been.  Don’t over water- tomatoes do not like soggy soil.


In early September Michigan gardeners should pinch off any new growing tips and flowers that develop on their indeterminate tomato plants.  This will concentrate the plants energy into growing and ripening the fruit already on the plant before the first frost.

Tomato problems

Tomatoes need to be kept evenly moist to help prevent blossom end rot.  This is a large black scabby area on the bottom of the tomato which if the disease is severe, may spread further into the fruit and cause a black, mushy rotted area.  Research now suggests that a lack of calcium in the soil does not cause blossom end rot.  Using a fertilizer for tomatoes will generally supply the calcium and other nutrient needs.  DO NOT USE EPSOM SALTS when planting tomatoes, despite all the internet “wisdom”.   Epsom salts can burn plant roots and too much in the soil binds important nutrients and keeps them from being used by the tomato plant.

Fungal diseases are the biggest problem tomato grower’s face.  They cause spots on the leaves, which then turn yellow and fall off.  They can also infect the fruit.  The plants may quickly die or remain sickly and unproductive.  Things you can do to prevent disease are; avoid getting foliage wet when watering, space plants so that there is good airflow around them and plant disease resistant varieties.   Keep plants off the ground and mulch the soil around them

Early Blight and Septoria leaf spot are common fungal diseases. These two diseases seldom kill plants outright, leaves die at the bottom but the plant continues to put out new leaves.  However this makes the plants weak and keeps them from producing the best fruit. In the last few years Late Blight has become a problem for Michigan tomato growers.  It causes blackened vines, leaves and fruit and quickly kills plants.  For more about late blight read this article. It’s from a previous season but still accurate.

There is no cure for fungal disease, only prevention.  Use a garden fungicide safe for vegetables according to label directions. While many organic products will provide some protection for early blight, septoria and some other tomato diseases, no current organic product works well for late blight.   Michigan gardeners are strongly encouraged to protect their tomatoes from late blight.  A product containing chlorothalonil is probably the best option for homeowners. 


Tomatoes seldom have insect problems other than the tomato hornworm.  The hornworm is the larvae stage of a pretty moth called the sphinx moth.    The hornworm is a green fat worm spotted with white that sports a big spine on its rear end which in Michigan can be red or black.  Tomato hornworms can be hard to see, they are well camouflaged.  They eat leaves and fruit and can be quite destructive.  Picking them off a few plants is probably the best homeowner strategy.  If you have many plants or can’t stand fat caterpillars use a garden insecticide safe for tomatoes.  Here’s an article about hornworms you might want to read: http://www.examiner.com/article/how-to-recognize-and-control-tomato-hornworms-michigan

What varieties are best?

There are hundreds of tomato varieties on the market.  Why not experiment a bit each year and find ones you like?  Keep in mind that heirloom varieties may not be very disease resistant and most were developed to perform well in specific areas of the country.  There are modern hybrids that combine disease resistance with old-fashioned flavor.  The more letters after a variety name such as VFNTASt, the more disease resistance it has.  Pay attention to catalog descriptions such as days to maturity, and whether the plant has special resistance to cold soil or where it was developed, to choose varieties right for you. Color and size are personal preferences; lighter colors are generally lower in acid.

Here is an article that gives you some great tomatoes for Michigan.
Here’s an article about varieties for cooking and canning


Hanging basket care

It’s a tradition for gardeners to pick their hanging baskets and have them hanging outside by Memorial Day.  Most gardeners will probably buy at least one hanging basket this season.  Michigan is one of the top producers of flowering baskets in the United States and Michigan gardeners have a wide selection of gorgeous hanging baskets to choose from each spring.  But while the baskets are stunning in early spring they often fizzle by midsummer.  Here are some tips to keep your flowering baskets looking nice throughout the summer season.

Right plant - right place

Choose wisely by matching the light requirements of the plants in the basket with those at the site where you intend to place them.  A fuchsia plant that’s popped into full sun will quickly dry up and die.  A pleasing petunia basket will quit blooming and get straggly if placed in the shade.   Hanging baskets generally list the plant names and requirements on a tag or label.  If they don’t, ask a knowledgeable salesperson what conditions the plants prefer.  Don’t buy a hanging basket, no matter how beautiful, if you can’t give it the conditions it needs.
Fuchsia

If a plant is listed as performing well in sun or part sun, it generally needs about 6 hours of direct sun or filtered sun all day.  If it says shade or part shade then the plant prefers less than 6 hours of sunlight and that sunlight is generally best if it comes in the early morning or late afternoon. 

Wind can also be a factor when choosing the right plants in a hanging basket.  Some plants are very susceptible to wind damage such as the tuberous begonias.  They should be hung in a protected spot.  The stems are brittle and break easily.   These plants wouldn’t be a good choice where they might get bumped or brushed frequently either.

Water - water -water

Hanging baskets require lots of water.  There are a lot of roots in those full lush baskets and little soil.  Windy, warm days may require that you water the baskets twice a day.  Plan for watering before you hang the pots.  If you can’t access them easily you either won’t water them enough or you will want to get rid of them.  There are pulley systems you can buy or devise that allow you to lower the pots for easy watering and long curved wands that you can attach to a hose to water baskets above your head.

Try not to let the plants wilt, even though they may revive when watered, each time they wilt the plant is stressed.  Water the baskets slowly with warm water until water drips from the bottom of the pot.  Try not to let the soil get so dry that it shrinks away from the side of the pot, if you do the water you add just pours right through the pot, without much absorbing into the soil.  If this happens take the pot down and soak it in a large bucket of water that covers the pot.  Push the pot down in the water and hold it until bubbles stop coming out. Leave it for an hour (and not much longer) and then remove it and let it drain. The soil should have expanded to the pot sides again.

If the hanging basket is set into another container that doesn’t allow it to drain freely you could over water your hanging basket.   Cool rainy weather and a container that doesn’t drain well can be a problem.  Plants that are over watered generally have a swampy smell.  They will wilt just like a dry plant because the root system is rotting away.  If the soil feels very wet don’t water the plant.  Empty all saucers or catch pots shortly after you water your hanging baskets.  These sources of standing water also breed mosquitoes.

Feed, feed, feed

Nurseries and greenhouses feed their hanging baskets a diluted plant fertilizer almost continuously.  To keep your basket blooming all summer you should feed them too.  Use a flowering plant fertilizer designed to be mixed with water at least once a week.  Follow the label directions carefully and use the directions for container plants.  Do not make the solution stronger than the label recommends or you may burn the roots of your plants.

Many of these fertilizers say they can be sprinkled on the leaves and the plants can absorb them.  They do to some extent but it is better to pour the fertilizer mixture on the soil.  If you plant your hanging basket yourself or repot it, you can add a granular slow release fertilizer formulated for flowering plants and mix it into the potting mix.  Follow the label directions for container plants. This should feed the basket for about 3 months.

Promise to deadhead and protect

Keep dead flowers plucked off to increase bloom.  Trim off straggly and broken ends and generally keep the plant tidy.  Some plants will take a bloom break when the weather gets very hot.  Warning - not every plant can be trimmed back drastically to renew it. This works with plants like petunias, impatiens, alyssum, lobelia and a few other things.  If you are going on vacation for a week or two trim them back to about 6 inches and in a couple of weeks you will have a bushy plant with renewed flowering.   They must be kept watered and fed during the transition too.  Don’t cut back plants like tuberous begonias, fuchsia, and lantana.   For some of the new and unusual plants in hanging baskets, ask an experienced nursery person or your Extension office garden hotline if they can be trimmed back for renewal.
Tuberous Begonia

If frost threatens cover your basket or move it inside a garage or shed.  You may extend the beauty of your baskets for a month or so in the fall if you cover them when frost is likely.   A large old sheet may be needed to cover a large basket.  Make sure to remove the cover shortly after sunrise the next morning.

Should you go organic or not?

The recent recommendation from experts to spray home cucumber, tomato and potato plants to protect them from some serious diseases has some dyed in the wool organic people up in arms.  Hot debates are springing up and people who choose to protect their plants are feeling a bit guilty as they do so.  While home gardeners should always strive to use as little pesticides as possible, if you must do so to protect a crop and you always follow the label directions on the pesticide product, you should put away the guilt.

Why grow produce in the home garden if you have to spray them like commercial crops some may ask.  The vegetables and fruits you grow are still good for you and taste much better than crops that have been shipped long distances.  And since you know what was sprayed on them and when, you have an advantage over the consumer who picks up produce at the local grocery store or even the farm market.  While there are some organic practices that may make produce taste better, not using pesticides is generally not one of them.

In the home garden pesticides - things that control insects and disease- should be used sparingly, carefully and only when absolutely necessary. We should make careful decisions as to whether or not we need to control a pest or if we can live with a little damage.  If we can still get a reasonable crop and the damage is mainly cosmetic, we can and should, manage the problem without pesticides.

When a disease such as late blight that will quickly destroy an entire crop threatens, we either live with the decision to control it with pesticides or we decide to lose the crop or not grow it. We also need to realize that our decision to grow a crop and then not protect it may affect other gardeners near us and even commercial farmers.  Once a fungal disease gets established in an area it may re-appear for years to come and require even more dangerous and costly controls.

When organic products such as an insecticidal soap are effective they should be used.  Cultural controls like covering some crops with row covers, mulching, keeping plants fertilized and watered, weeding and using traps to capture pests are always important to try first before using pesticides.  But for some problems no effective organic or cultural control exists. 

All organic products are not harmless.  Nicotine for example is organic but very, very toxic to humans as well as insects.  It isn’t often sold for that reason but many people mix up concoctions containing it after reading some organic article.   Mixing up strange organic brews in the garage may end up being worse for you than using a pesticide correctly.

The people who are so reluctant to use a little fungicide on their tomato plants are often the same ones who are spraying their house every two days for ants, getting pesticides all over surfaces where hands and food rests and breathing in pesticide vapors.  They think nothing of chasing a fly around trying to blast it with fly spray.  Or they use moth balls, a potent carcinogen that also causes cataracts, in copious amounts to try to keep snakes out from under the porch, or squirrels from the attic.

When you spray or dust plants in the garden with pesticides most of the pesticide stays on the surface of the plant, it isn’t absorbed in any great amount. (Never use systemic products which do enter the plant on food plants.) So carefully washing all produce should remove that pesticide.  It’s a good idea to wash all fruits and vegetables before eating, even if they have been grown organically.  Several food borne illnesses have nothing to do with pesticides; they come from food becoming contaminated with things like salmonella, which occurs naturally in the environment.

In every case the pesticides that are sold will have a label, and it is the law that you follow that label exactly.   Everyday consumers are busy slathering their faces with chemicals,( make-up, shaving cream), spraying their bodies with chemicals ( perfumes, deodorants, hairspray), breathing in poisonous vapors, (paints, printer ink, magic markers, volatizing plastic, nail polish), and eating and drinking dozens of chemicals.   The safe, proper use of garden pesticides is no more dangerous than any of those things.

Dame’s Rocket or Wild Phlox

Dame’s Rocket, (Hesperis matronalis) can be found in roadside ditches, fields and gardens.  This pretty plant spreads a blanket of color in late spring across Michigan.   Usually purple, Dames rocket also comes in white and pink and wild places often show blend of these beautiful colors, which are natural mutations.  It is an escapee from domestic gardens and has been cultivated since early Romans grew it in gardens.
 
Dames Rocket
Dame’s rocket is an annual plant, returning each year from seed that is dropped in late summer.  This is a draw back in gardens because the plants are rather unsightly after bloom stops and before the seed pods ripen.  However if you want this plant to reseed in the garden just a few seed stalks need to be left.

The leaves of Dames rocket are long and narrow and a deep green.  The plants grow to about 3 feet high and the flowers arrive on many small stems carrying loose clusters of 3/4 inch, 4 petal flowers at the top of the plant.  The flowers turn into long narrow brown seed pods.

Dame’s Rocket is not fussy about where it grows, from ditches to wood edges and will grow in full sun or partial shade.  If you would like to encourage its growth in your garden collect the seed pods in late summer and sprinkle the seeds in the area you want them to grow.

Traveling turtles

It’s that time of the year again when turtles seem to lose all sense and roam across roads like they were trying to commit suicide.  It isn’t the heat and it certainly isn’t the ponds drying up- at least not this year- that causes this seemingly random wandering.  It’s a mother turtle looking for just the right place to lay her eggs.  All of our Michigan turtles do this, but the ones that are most common and most often seen are the Painted turtle and the Snapping turtle.
Painted turtle

About this time every year mother turtles of all types get the urge to find a perfect spot for the eggs they’re carrying.  They’re looking for moist, loose soil in a sunny area, preferably not heavily covered with vegetation.  Each turtle must have some deep inborn idea of that perfect spot and off she goes to find it, slowly but surely.  She may go some distance from the pond or swamp she mated in, across hot expanses of asphalt and up and down steep roadside ditches.   Unfortunately many of these quests for a nursery end in the turtle being squashed on the road. 

If the turtle finds a good spot, she digs a shallow hole and lays her off-white eggs, which vary in size from golf ball to large hen egg size, from oval to round and from thin and hard shelled to leathery shelled depending on the species of the female turtle.  She then pushes some loose soil over them and starts her long trek back to where she came from.  Many creatures love turtle eggs for dinner, particularly raccoons, which sometimes follow turtles and grab the eggs as they are laid.

If the nest remains undiscovered, the tiny turtles will hatch in 60-80 days and they too, will start a journey.  They will go looking for the perfect pond or swamp to live in.  Their instincts guide them toward water and once again many will perish as they cross roads and are gobbled up by other critters.

Turtles are becoming increasingly scarce, with some species now endangered.   They take years to become sexually mature and few baby turtles make it through the first year.  As swamps and other wetland habitat is eliminated in Michigan, turtle numbers have declined drastically.   If you can avoid hitting them on the road please do so.   If you want to help them cross the road, take them in the direction they were traveling, even if it doesn’t seem like they are going the right way to you.  If you take them back to where they came from, they will just start the journey all over again.  Watch for your own safety on roads and don’t put your life in danger to rescue a turtle.

Snapping turtle
Be really careful when handling snapping turtles.   Snappers are ugly looking and often covered with algae or mud.  They have long necks and may aggressively “snap” at anything they perceive as a threat.   The large ones have jaws strong enough to break a finger or take it right off so use extreme care.   Picking them up by the tail may hurt them and they may be able to reach around and bite you.   If you want to move them, dangle a piece of cloth or cardboard in front of their nose.  They will generally snap at this and when they latch on to the object they firmly hold on.  You can then drag or pull them off the road.   On the other side they’ll release the object they grabbed after a few minutes of quiet.

Snapping turtles won’t chase you and will leave you alone if you leave them alone.  While they are ugly, they are part of nature’s scheme and don’t deserve to be indiscriminately killed.  Tales of large snapping turtles attacking swimmers or eating all the fish in a pond are just that, tales.   While Snappers have been known to eat an occasional baby duck, they really prefer fish and frogs.  The presence of snapping turtles in a pond or lake seldom impacts the number of game fish present.

Snappers can get quite large, although the Common Snapping turtle found in Michigan does not get as large as the Alligator Snapping turtle found in the southern states.  About 40 pounds and a shell 20” across would be a large Michigan Snapping turtle.  Some of these large turtles may be 50 or more years old.  Snapping turtles were a part of Native American diets and many people still consider them a delicacy.

All turtles are protected from being harvested and sold in Michigan except for Snapping turtles. The Spotted, Blandings, Wood, and Eastern Box turtles are protected completely by Michigan law and it is illegal to kill them or keep them as pets.  So when you see these guys crossing the road don’t capture them for pets.

Have a great Memorial weekend- just keep an eye on the sky

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero



Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

New- Peonies Galore Sale Sat, June 4, 10am, Nichols Arboretum, Angell, MI,
Several varieties of locally grown heirloom peonies for sale.  Call for more info – 734-647-7600, or www.mbgna.umich.edu.

New-Half Million Ladybug Giveaway, Sat, June 11,
Organic pest control for the garden! Gardeners can get 1 bag of 1500 ladybugs free with any purchase at any English gardens location. www.englishgardens.com.

New-MSU Tollgate Gardens Perennial Plant Sale, Sat, June 4, 9am-2pm, MSU Tollgate Education Conference Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

We will be offering Tollgate Nursery grown sun and shade perennials.  There will be volunteers to help with selection and loading.  For more information: 248-347-3860. ext.251.


Annual Perennial Plant Sale Sat, May 28, 10am-1pm, 1535 N Hickory Rd, Owosso, MI





Sponsored by Shaiwassee Co. Master Gardeners. Plants for both shade & sun with expert gardeners to answer questions.   More info: joannemkenyon@yahoo.com.

Novi Spring Perennial Exchange Sat, May 28, 9am-Noon, Fuerst Park, 45175 10 Mile Rd, Novi, MI

Sponsored by Novi Beautification Commission at Fuerst Park. FREE. Perennial exchange. Bring plants to share and make new gardening friends. 248-735-5621.

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com



Tuesday, May 17, 2016

May 17, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

May 17, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners

After snow on Sunday morning we are finally getting into better weather.  The lilacs are beginning to bloom here, creeping phlox is in bloom, and the tulips still look fairly nice.  It’s hard but I think we still need to be a little patient with the tender plants.  I suggest waiting until after the full moon which is on Saturday; I think the long range forecast looks good after that.  But we never know for sure especially up my way.   It got down to 30 degrees Sunday night here.  I have checked my apple trees and I don’t see any freeze damage on the blooms but some things may have been damaged.

The orioles have been out in force around here.  I have 6-8 at the feeder sometimes.  I am also seeing rose breasted grosbeaks.  The hummers are around now too.  I made the mistake of putting a hummingbird feeder over some of my pretty tulips in front of the house and the raccoons tried to get at it.  They broke off many tulips which made me quite mad.  I moved the feeder away from the plants but I would rather move raccoons.

What’s available at the farm markets now?   Most types of greens, radishes, green onions, chives, leeks, rhubarb, and asparagus.  Tunnel grown strawberries may be  coming into markets in southern parts of the state. There are lots of annuals and herb plants being offered at most places.

I participated in the plant swap the Lapeer Horticulture Society held last night and came home with a number of plants.  If you have never been to a plant swap there are a list of them at the end of the newsletter you might want to attend.  It’s fun and you never know what you will find.  Some swaps have rules, others don’t.  In most cases you take your excess plants to a location, and there is some sort of lottery or you are issued tickets to choose plants that others have brought.  If you can dig your plants and pot them in something – it doesn’t have to be pretty- a few days to a few weeks before the swap.  Keep them well watered.  Try to label them with a name- even if it’s a common name.

When you choose plants at a swap realize that some of them may look a bit wilted, but most recover with good care.  They may not be in a good pot or even potted at all but you can either pot them or plant them in the garden.  Ask questions if you don’t know anything about the plant but be prepared to come home and look up information.

Microclimates- what they are- what they mean

Most gardeners are aware of what planting zone they are in. (If you don’t know your planting zone please go to this article to learn about them: http://www.examiner.com/article/how-to-find-your-garden-zone
Knowing your planting zone lets you select plants that are hardy in your area but every gardener should also know about microclimates and how they impact the plants in your garden.

Microclimates are small areas within a larger planting zone that have different characteristics than the zone as a whole.  They may be warmer or colder.  And microclimates can also refer to whether the area is dry or wet, and whether it is sheltered from the wind.  You may have several microclimates on one piece of property.  A large city may constitute a microclimate within a planting zone and within that city different yards may have different microclimates. 

Microclimates are created when some feature of the landscape changes weather conditions.  It could be lots of pavement and buildings which trap heat or a low, moist area that cold air sinks into. It could be a courtyard or a wall or solid fence or a pond, things that affect the air and soil conditions.  Shade and exposure to sun and wind also define microclimates.

To give your plants the best possible growing conditions a gardener needs to be aware of microclimates. Gardeners in northern areas are generally happy when they find a microclimate spot that lets them grow plants that might not be quite cold hardy in their area- they like warmer microclimates.  Those in warmer areas may like microclimates that allow plants that don’t like heat to be happier.

The areas near a large body of water are generally cooler in the spring and warmer in the fall than the surrounding areas. This may be helpful to keep some things like fruit trees from blooming too soon and extending the time in the fall that fruit has to ripen.  The cherry industry on Michigan’s west coast takes advantage of that microclimate along Lake Michigan.

How do you find microclimates on your property?  Careful observation and educated hunches are your tools.  Spots where snow or frost doesn’t melt until long after other areas are cold microclimates. Soil still frozen after other areas have thawed indicates a cold area. Areas where water pools in the spring and fall are generally cooler areas.  Hollows, dips, valleys, ditches, all lower spots are generally cooler than the surrounding area.  The north side of a slope/bank is cooler.  Watch for plants that emerge later or bloom later than those in other areas.

Areas where plants emerge and bloom sooner than surrounding plants may be warm microclimates.  A dark colored house or house foundation, stone walls or dark pavement in full sun absorbs heat and stays warmer through the night.  You may see dandelions or chickweed blooming there long before they bloom in more exposed areas. Raised beds, and elevated, well drained areas are often warmer than other places.  Nooks and alcoves, courtyards, islands in paved areas

Summer microclimates can be important for some plants as well as winter microclimates.  Areas that are very hot and humid in the summer may not suit some plants as well as areas that may be just as hot but drier. And some plants need and thrive in high humidity.  Some nurseries have attempted to define summer hardiness zones as well as winter hardiness zones.  If you find plants labeled with heat hardiness ratings pay attention and do your homework to see if your type of heat is suitable for that plant.

Lighter colored house walls or fences may reflect so much sun back onto plants that they burn them or dry the soil out quickly.  Areas surrounded by pavement may get very warm in summer. Rocky, sandy soil heats up and dries out quickly.  Some plants will not thrive in that microclimate.  Too much heat can be as bad as too little in many cases.  But careful plant selection can generally find a compatible plant for the conditions.

If you are a gardener who longs to grow a plant that’s not supposed to be winter hardy in your area you may want to look around your property for a warmer microclimate.  Don’t expect to grow oranges outside in Michigan; at best you will probably raise the survival rate by one zone, unless you build a heated greenhouse.  For example if your planting zone is rated zone 6 and you want a plant whose hardiness is rated zone 7 to overwinter in your yard, you could plant it against the south wall of the house in full sun in light, sandy soil.  You may need to mulch some plants (lavender doesn’t like heavy mulch) deeply to help them survive.  Or you could put up a hoop house or unheated greenhouse to protect plants a bit.

A food gardener who has an exposed, low area for a garden spot may want to enclose it with a solid or slatted fence and use raised beds to provide a better microclimate.  That’s especially true if the soil is heavy clay.  Most food gardens in wide open areas can benefit from some kind of windbreak on the north and west sides.  Creating a favorable microclimate gets you gardening faster in the spring and lets your crops have a longer growing season.

Soil moisture levels also define microclimates.  Areas that don’t drain well, are boggy or swampy can occur within property that is generally well drained.  In those areas you’ll need to select plants whose root systems can thrive in wet soil.  This can bring some interesting plants into your garden.  Or you can improve the drainage in some way and eliminate the odd conditions.  Remember wet spots are often cooler than surrounding areas too.

Remember that microclimates can change over time, fences get removed, windbreaks grow tall and provide too much shade, drainage patterns may change and so on and you may need to change the plant species that grow there too.  Sometimes a less than hardy plant for your zone will survive one or two winters because the temperatures were warmer than normal- we’ll see this more as the climate warms- but then die when we have a “normal” winter.  In that case you didn’t really have a microclimate.

Not everyone has a spot on their property to “cheat” a growing zone.  When selecting plants whose hardiness is less than your growing zone rating be prepared to lose it.  It doesn’t hurt to take a chance, as long as you can afford the loss.   If you suspect your garden may have a bit of a cool microclimate choose plants whose hardiness rating is one or more zones lower than yours.  For example if you are in zone 5 you may want to choose plants that are hardy to zone 4.

When a new plant or plant variety comes on the market the zone hardiness may not be precisely defined yet.  It may take growing it in many locations by many people for a few years to define its hardiness.  Experimenting and reporting on your experiences can help other gardeners make better choices.

Mayapples, Maypops

The Mayapple, or May pop (Podophyllum peltatum) is a wildflower that makes an excellent plant for woodland gardens and shady areas.  In late April and May in zones 5-6 the large leaves emerge like large green umbrellas in native forests across much of eastern North America from artic Canada to Florida.  Mayapple is the source of much folklore and other common names are American Mandrake and Ground Lemon, Devil’s Apple, Hog-apple, Indian Apple, Racoonberry, Wild Lemon and Witches Umbrella.
 
Mayapple foliage
Mayapples have a thick light green stalk about 20 inches high from which two leaves generally emerge.  The leaves are compound, palmate, with 3-9 but generally 6 leaf segments.  The segments have a notch at the tip and serrated edges.  When the leaves first emerge they hang like a closed umbrella but as the plant matures the leaves become more like an open umbrella.  Leaves can be 9 inches across or more.  If a plant has a single leaf stalk it is infertile and won’t produce fruit.

The Mayapple flower is white to pale rose with 6-9 petals, gold stamens, and mildly fragrant.  It hides in the leaf axil, under the leaves. Mayapple’s require cross pollination to make fruit and bumble bees and a few other native bees are the usual pollinators.  The flower turns into a 1 ½ inch lemon shaped fruit which is yellow and soft when ripe. The fruit contains several seeds and is eaten by box turtles and small mammals.  The ripe fruit is the only part of the plant that is not poisonous.

Mayapple has dark brown, jointed rhizomous roots. It is dependent on mycorrhizae in woodland soil to help it take up water and nutrients.  It forms colonies by new plants arising from rhizomes. It can spread quickly and aggressively when it’s happy in a spot.  It also reproduces by seed.  These require immediate planting after being removed from the fruit and at least 3 months of cold, moist conditions to sprout.  They take several years to mature and bloom.

Mayapples prefer light shade or dappled shade under deciduous trees where the soil is high in organic matter and on the sandy side.  They tolerate moderate dryness, and do not do well in soggy soil or heavy clay.  They don’t require fertilization if the soil is allowed to accumulate organic matter.

The leaves of mayapple are sometimes damaged by late frost.  They may get a fungal “rust”, in some locations.  It’s normal for the plant to die back in late summer or very hot weather and seem to disappear.  Mayapples are long lived perennials however.

Cautions- medicinal and other uses

Mayapples are extremely poisonous and although there are many Native American herbal remedies involving parts of the plants only the most experienced herbalists should experiment with them.  Plant parts, including seeds, have been used for both murder and suicide.  It is a strong purgative- you’ll vomit and have severe diarrhea – which used to be a “remedy” for many things.  It is not recommended that the plant be consumed at all.  Overdose can cause heart failure and failure of the liver and kidneys and an awful, painful death.

People do make jam or jelly from the ripe fruit.  Some people even consume it like an apple.  But the flavor is nothing special, it’s described as overripe melon with a sour lemon tang, and you must take care not to consume any seeds, which are very poisonous.  There are far tastier and safe fruits to make jams and jellies from. Leave mayapple fruits for wildlife.
Mayapple flower

The plant does have chemicals which inhibit cell growth and mayapple has been studied as a treatment for several types of cancer.  It has many serious side effects though, and it’s not currently being used except experimentally.

The best use for mayapples is not as an herbal remedy but as an unusual plant for the wooded or natural garden.  The umbrella leaves are attractive in spring, even though the flowers are hard to see.   And they are food for bumblebees, turtles and other creatures.  Enjoy them without having to find a “use” for them.

Cooking and preserving rhubarb

Rhubarb is a great sweet-tart spring treat.  It’s available in Michigan farm markets beginning in May and of course, you can grow your own rhubarb. For how to grow rhubarb see this article.  www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/growing-rhubarb
If harvesting your own cut it with a sharp knife near the stem base and don’t remove more than 1/3 of the stalks each season.  Stop harvesting when plants flower, usually mid -June in Michigan.

Rhubarb stalks are the only safe part of the plant to eat; the plants contain high amounts of oxalic acid.  The stem color of rhubarb varies from bright cherry red to greenish red, depending on variety.  Many people just like to munch on a crispy tart stalk and that’s fine.  This article will give you some ideas on how to cook and preserve the rhubarb harvest.

Some people leave the ‘skin” on when cooking rhubarb, others prefer to carefully skin the stalks. You can usually remove the “skin” with your fingers, it strips right off.  The peel often pulls away in attractive curls that can be used for garnishes.  Tender young stalks won’t need peeling.  Always wash rhubarb before proceeding with a recipe.

Rhubarb pairs beautifully with strawberries and pineapple.  You substitute rhubarb pieces in any zucchini bread or cake recipe.  That’s a good reason to freeze some rhubarb chunks, in case the zucchini crop fails.

Cooked Rhubarb Sauce
         
          * Rhubarb stalks, washed
          * sugar
         
Cut the rhubarb stalks into 1/2 inch slices.  Measure your pieces. Put in a sauce pan.  Add 1/2 cup of sugar for every 2 cups of rhubarb pieces.   Toss the mixture with a spoon.  You can adjust the sweetness to suit you.  Let the rhubarb and sugar sit until you notice some fluid being drawn out of the rhubarb, probably 30 minutes.  Then heat the rhubarb and sugar until gently boiling.  Cook, stirring often, until the rhubarb pieces soften, about 5 minutes.

Use the sauce on pound cake slices or over vanilla ice cream.

Cooking rhubarb for use in pies and cakes

Cut the rhubarb in 1/2 slices.  Fill a metal strainer or colander with pieces.  Get a large pot of water boiling.  Immerse strainer or colander with rhubarb pieces in it for 2-3 minutes.  Drain and use in recipe.

Freezing rhubarb

Blanch rhubarb in boiling water as above, but only immerse for 1 minute.  Dip colander into a large pot of cold water immediately.  Let drain.  Pack into freezer safe containers and freeze.

Canning rhubarb

Follow the directions above for rhubarb sauce.  It takes about 2 cups of rhubarb pieces for each pint jar. As soon as rhubarb is removed from the stove, pour it into clean pint jars to 1/2 inch from rims.  Remove bubbles by gently running a knife through filled jars.  Clean the rims and apply lids.  Process the jars in a water bath canner for 15 minutes. 


Rhubarb and pineapple cake recipe

This cake is fairly easy to prepare and tastes delicious.  You could frost it, but it’s great with a scoop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, especially while warm.  It’s not as sweet as some cakes, but soft, moist and flavorful. This makes a good potluck dessert, something different.  Rhubarb and pineapple cake also freezes well.

          * 2 cups of peeled, sliced rhubarb
          * 3/4 cup of sugar
          * 3 tablespoons butter (or margarine)
          * 1 yellow cake mix
          * 1 20 oz. can of unsweetened crushed pineapple, don’t drain.
          * 3 eggs

Grease a 13x9 inch cake pan.  Preheat oven to 350. 

In a microwave safe bowl combine rhubarb and sugar.  Cover bowl and microwave on high for about 3 minutes.  The rhubarb should look like the consistency of the crushed pineapple. 

Add the butter to the rhubarb bowl and let it melt.  In the meantime combine the cake mix, 3 eggs and can of pineapple in a big bowl.  Pour in the rhubarb-butter mixture.

Beat with the electric beaters until the cake mix and other ingredients are well combined, about 2 minutes.  Pour into greased pan and bake for about 35 minutes- until a knife inserted comes out clean.  Cool slightly and serve.

How to plant a tree properly

Bare root, balled and burlapped or potted trees all respond well to planting when the weather is cool and wet.  Early May is still fine for bare-root trees that have been well cared for and balled or potted trees and shrubs can be planted until late September if they are well cared for as they acclimate to a new spot.

Unfortunately many old ideas about tree planting still exist among people who work in landscaping nurseries and garden stores.  Research done at places such as Michigan State University has helped us better understand the process a tree goes through when it has to re-establish itself after transplanting.  The newer advice, backed by research, helps ensure that your trees will get off to a better start and continue to grow for many, many years.  Here are some things that you should do or have your landscaper do, to get those new trees off to a healthy start.

This advice is for trees planted in the landscape, as ornamental or fruiting trees.  A re-forestation project, involving hundreds of small seedlings requires some adjustments to technique, although following the advice below would give your trees a great start.

Don’t soak the tree roots for long

Do not put bare root trees in a pail of water for longer than an hour. You can moisten the packing material or wrap a bare root tree in some moistened paper, for holding for a day or two.  Keep them in a cool place.  Try not to hold bare root trees for more than a few days before planting.  Soaking the roots too long will rot them and the tree will probably die.

Make sure trees in pots or ball and burlapped are watered, but not too wet.  They must be able to drain well.  Do not sit pots or root balls directly in water.

Preparing the hole

Prepare a hole three times as wide, but no deeper than the root ball.  If the tree is bare-root when you buy it, look at the trunk for a dark “ring” area to show you the level the tree was growing at before it was dug for the depth of your hole.  If it’s hard to determine the original growing level look for the highest root and make the hole just deep enough that the top root will be about an inch under the soil.

Contrary to what most people think, most types of trees have root systems that remain in the top three feet of soil.  Even if they are a species that has a deeper tap root, that root grows more slowly than lateral roots when first transplanted.  The tree needs to send out lateral, (side) roots so that it can start grabbing water and minerals to support new top growth and it needs to stabilize itself so it doesn’t topple in the wind.   Having loose soil in a wide area around the root system is the key to faster establishment.

Planting at the right depth

Trees that are not planted at the right depth may grow, although some species are fussier about this than others.  But the tree may be in for a lifetime of problems if it wasn’t planted at the optimum level.  If you look at a mature tree that was planted at the right depth it will be wider at the bottom, the wider part is called a root flare.  Trees planted too deeply will have trunks that appear to be straight, without widening, right to the ground.  A trunk that flares at the bottom is stronger and able to withstand wind better.  Trees that were planted too shallow usually don’t survive to maturity.  

You get a tree planted at the right level by looking for that top root.   The highest root branching off the main root on the tree should be just below the ground, about 1 inch below it.  On some very small bare root trees you may need to look closely at the main root to see where branching is beginning.  

To see the top branching root is in a balled and burlapped tree you need to remove the burlap.  That will be covered in more detail below.   When trees are put into burlap roots may be twisted up higher than they were growing and soil piled up above that.  You need to uncover the root system in that ball to see where the top root naturally lies.  With a potted tree you can usually line up the soil surface at the top of the pot with the ground level where you are planting it.  You will, of course, be removing the pot.

Removing anything that isn’t “tree”

Once the tree is in the hole at the right level everything must be removed from around the root system.  Here is where many landscapers balk at the new recommendations that say all burlap, wire cages and even so called peat pots must be removed before filling in the hole.  You can leave the burlap on the root ball until it’s in the hole - where you can cut away most of it- but it should be removed.  There are a couple of good reasons to do this.   So called peat pots must be removed before the roots are placed in the hole.

Modern “burlap” is often composed of synthetic materials that really don’t break down quickly in soil.   Tree roots may still be contained in those packages years after planting.  That’s not a good thing because the roots need to spread out to support new top growth.  And any burlap that gets exposed to the air wicks moisture away from tree roots.  Peat pots are even worse at restricting root spreading.  Trees need to get those lateral roots growing the first few months after planting, not years down the line.

And you need to inspect that root system before you fill the hole, another reason to remove burlap.  Roots that have circled around and around in pots or burlap balls will continue to grow in circles after being placed into the ground.  This may eventually strangle the tree, even years after planting.  And as mentioned above, you need to know where the top branching root is to properly place the root system.

Girdling roots
Make sure all strings, wire, rope etc. are also removed from the roots and also the trunk and branches of a tree.  As a tree grows these things cut through the area that transports food and water and any parts above the constricting item will die.

Helping roots grow right

When planting trees never wrap a root around the hole- spread it out horizontally.  If it’s really too long, trim it off to fit the hole, but never spiral it around the hole.  When you see those roots that have circled the pot as described above, they must be loosened before replacing soil.   If you can loosen them with your fingers and spread them out that’s a sign the circling wasn’t too advanced.   Good nurseries either root trim or repot trees to keep them from getting root bound.

If the roots are thickly layered at the bottom of the pot or root ball or around the sides you’ll need to trim them.  If it’s just at the bottom, trim off the circling roots, making a slice across the bottom an inch or so deep.  Then slightly flare out the remaining soil and roots.  If roots are really circled heavily up the side of the pot make several cuts length wise through the roots, as well as trimming the bottom, and hope for the best.

Roots that are circling when planted will probably continue to spiral around the main root or trunk.  This may eventually kill the tree by choking off the supply of water and food, sometimes years after planting. 

Spread roots sideways in the planting hole, except for any central main root.   Don’t squish all the roots down vertically into the hole.   Any larger roots that are broken can be trimmed.

Refill with what you removed

You’ll see the signs advising you to buy amendments and the sales staff may try to convince you, but don’t buy peat or topsoil or anything else to add to the planting soil as you plant your tree.  Research has shown that trees establish better if the hole is refilled with what you took out.  After all that is the soil that the tree will be living in after it grows through your small amended area.  It is easier for the tree to adapt to new conditions if it starts right away and it doesn’t have to re-adjust its root system when it grows through the amendments and into the surrounding soil.

Holes filled with “good stuff” may hold too much moisture next to roots, especially if you throw a bag of peat into heavy clay soil.  The roots sit in water and rot.  And trees may not extend their roots quickly into surrounding soil if it’s easier to grow roots inside an amended area.  This can lead to circling roots, with the tree being strangled or to a poorly established root system that can’t support the tree in a wind storm or through a drought.

You can add a little slow release fertilizer to the soil you are going to backfill with.  Don’t throw it in the hole, mix it through the soil you removed then refill the hole.  And never add Epsom salt to the hole, or surrounding soil.

Don’t prune and don’t stake- usually

It’s not necessary to remove one third of the tree as some older advice may lead you to believe.  Research has shown the tree needs top growth to make food so the root system can grow. Prune off any broken branches and any branches that cross or rub each other, that’s all.  You can shape the tree once it has established itself, usually after one growing season.

Most new trees should not be staked.  They grow stronger trunks and wider root systems if the tree is allowed to sway in the wind.  There are some exceptions.  New evergreens planted in the fall or in high wind areas may need to be staked for one growing season.  Some ornamental weeping trees will need to be staked at least for a growing season, some for much longer.  If you do stake a tree check the ropes several times a year to make sure they are not cutting into the tree.

Don’t over water and don’t over mulch

Yes, newly planted trees need to be well watered at planting and they should be watered when needed during the first growing season to get them off to a good start.  But their roots don’t need to be constantly soaked.   In really hot weather and in sandy soil trees may need watering frequently but in most situations a good watering once a week the first season will be enough.

Mulch is good for trees, but it shouldn’t actually touch the tree trunk.  Rot and disease can start where decomposing mulch touches trees.  And never use more than 3 inches of mulch.  Too much mulch absorbs or sheds water before it gets to the soil and it prevents oxygen from reaching tree roots.  To get water and air tree roots may grow up into the mulch instead of down into the soil, which isn’t good for the tree. 

A little care taken during tree planting will do a lot to prevent tree failure.  A tree may leaf out and appear to grow the first season or even several seasons but failure of a tree in the first three years after planting is often due to poor planting procedures. When contracting with a nursery or landscaper to plant your trees make sure they are willing to follow your directions and plant properly.  You are the customer.  If they say your warranty is void if you remove burlap for example, you may want to use another company.   They may replace the tree but you will have lost valuable growing time if it needs to be replaced.  And unfortunately the tree may not start to decline until the warranty is up.

Life is short- get out and smell the flowers- and plant a tree.

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

New- Butterflies of Holliday Nature Preserve, Saturday, May 21, 2016, 1:00 – 2:30 pm Nankin Mills Nature Center - 33175 Ann Arbor Trail, Westland, MI 48185
Michigan is home to many beautiful species of butterflies. Learn how to recognize them throughout their different life stages and also learn what plants you can add to your landscape to attract them to your yard. We will visit the Butterfly Garden at Nankin Mills after the presentation. Fee: $3.00 per person, Add $1 for out-of-Wayne county residence. Recommended for ages 12 and up. More info phone:(734) 261-1990


New- Herb swap, May 21st, 11 am at the Watertower park, Lapeer.
Lapeer Herb Circle is sponsoring an herb plant swap.  Bring your excess and swap for new things.  Even if you don’t have things to swap show up and get some herbs for your garden.  The Watertower park is on the North edge of Lapeer, close to McLaren regional hospital.

Native Plant Sale, Sat, May 21, 9-11:30 am, St Clair Shores Library, 22500 E 11 Mile Rd, St Clair Shores, MI

Sponsored by Yardeners at St Clair Shores Library. Attract birds, butterflies & bees with natives.  More information: scsyardeners@gmail.com.

MSU Annual Plant Sale, Sat, May 21, 7am-2pm, MSU Horticulture Gardens, 1066 Bogue St, East Lansing, MI
Annuals, perennials, shrubs, vegetables, herbs, houseplants, hanging baskets, & combo pots.  For more info:  www.hrt.msu.edu.

Annual Perennial Plant Sale Sat, May 28, 10am-1pm, 1535 N Hickory Rd, Owosso, MI
         
Sponsored by Shaiwassee Co. Master Gardeners. Plants for both shade & sun with expert gardeners to answer questions.   More info: joannemkenyon@yahoo.com.

Novi Spring Perennial Exchange Sat, May 28, 9am-Noon, Fuerst Park, 45175 10 Mile Rd, Novi, MI

Sponsored by Novi Beautification Commission at Fuerst Park. FREE. Perennial exchange. Bring plants to share and make new gardening friends. 248-735-5621.

Mushroom Cultivation Sat, May 21, 10am, 132 W Lafayette Blvd, Detroit, MI.
Sponsored by The Greening of Detroit at Lafayette Greens. Take this 2 hour class to learn how to cultivate mushrooms.   More info: education@greeningofdetroit.com.

Harnessing Mother Nature’s Workforce—Beneficial Insects Fri, May 20, 9:15 am, Meadow Brook Hall, 480 S Adams Rd, Rochester, MI
Learn to recognize & maximize Mother Nature’s natural pest control. Sponsored by MBGC at Meadow Brook Hall. Cost $5. For more info call  2483646210, or MBHGCMembers@gmail.com.

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com