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Tuesday, April 19, 2016

April 19, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

April 19, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners
Apricot

Well that warm spell we had over the weekend was quite pleasant and quite a contrast to the weekend before.  But it’s Tuesday and that means the weather is changing.  We’ll be cooler for the next few days, with rain, not snow, Thursday, but the weather will actually be normal for April.  That’s a good thing because we don’t want the fruit trees to bud out too early and get blasted by frost and that heat was pushing things along quickly.

I have hyacinths, windflowers, Spanish bluebells, daffodils and a few early tulips in bloom.  The apricot tree is blooming and was covered with bees.  Magnolias and forsythia are blooming.  The honeybells are blooming. The dandelions, chickweed and purple deadnettle are blooming like crazy.  We mowed part of our lawn for the first time.  I saw both barn and tree swallows this week.  No hummers yet but I know they’ll be here soon.

My pansies quickly recovered from being snow covered and are starting to bloom again.  Several people have mentioned to me that their daylilies look bad, yellow and bleached out looking from frost damage.  I have damage here too but those plants will recover.  The common daylily or ditch lily is especially hard to kill, but even garden daylilies should be fine.

I was able to get lettuce and peas planted, both in the garden and in a box in my little greenhouse.  I divided and transplanted some leeks that came up in the garden.  There are also some onion volunteers almost big enough to eat.  I have moved many seedlings from the house to the greenhouse.  I have started digging up and dividing plants in my biggest flower bed which was overcome with garden phlox.  There’s an article below about which garden perennials can be divided in the spring below.
windflower

One disappointing finding this week, or maybe I should say maddening finding was that the deer have come up in two of my garden beds and eaten daylilies and tulips right to the ground.  I really, really hate deer. The daylilies will probably recover but the tulips won’t bloom this year and may not return.  I had spent several hours last fall planting some 300 new tulips in one half circle bed and was just waiting for my pretty show.  Now half the circle is gone, and the other half is draped in black netting.  There’s an article about tulips, one of my favorite plants, below.

Last night I spoke to the Lapeer Horticultural Society about a new perspective on non-native plants.  I have put the outline of that talk on this blog site with a suggested reading list if you are interested.  Just scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on previous blog post.

Dividing perennials in spring

Early spring is an excellent time to divide and thin some perennial plants.  Plants recover from transplanting much easier in cool, damp weather.  Dividing your perennials is often necessary to keep them healthy and blooming and keeps the flower beds from becoming a tangled mess.  You can start new beds or give away the divisions.

Some species of plants need dividing more frequently than others.  A few species do better if divided in the fall.  And there are species of plants that you don’t divide unless it’s the only way to get a new start of the plant and others you shouldn’t divide at all.  While there are guidelines for the amount of time between dividing different species of plants the gardener should always use their own judgement.  In general if the plant has numerous crowns, (crowns look like individual plants) looks like it’s packed into its space and has stopped blooming well it’s probably time to divide it.  You may want to divide and thin out some species of plants if they are encroaching on other plants space.

Echinacea
You may not want to divide plants if they have grown little since you planted them, even though as a species it’s common to have to divide them frequently.  Each plant in its unique environment has a different growth pattern.  Keeping records, especially photo records, helps the gardener remember which plants looked overcrowded the previous season and need to be divided.

You can do the division as soon as you see new growth or even before if you know the location of the plant.  It’s easier to work with plants when the foliage is still small. Decide in advance if you are going to keep and re-plant the divisions or compost them.  Be prepared to either pot up divisions or re-plant them in another garden bed soon after dividing them, the sooner the better, if you want to keep the plants.

You’ll need a good spade and possibly a heavy duty knife, to dig and divide your perennials.   First dig around the perennial clump and lift the whole clump out on a tarp or piece of cardboard.  Gently wash away most of the soil with a garden hose if you have access.  Study the clump and decide where you can easily divide the plants and how many divisions you could make.  Usually 2-3 crowns and root sections are kept together.  Sometimes you may want to divide the plant into individual crowns and roots.  You want a good healthy looking clump for each new plant.

You can sometimes separate the plants with your fingers, gently pulling the clump apart.  Other times you may need to use a knife or even the shovel to divide the plants.  Some plants like ornamental grasses may need a saw to divide them. Some roots and foliage may be damaged when divisions are made.  This is unfortunate but necessary in certain cases.  Most perennials are pretty tough and recover quickly, especially in early spring.  In some species the center of the plant or other portions may have dead areas.  These should be cut out and discarded.

Keep your divisions moist and out of the direct sun until you re-plant them.  After planting keep them watered unless it’s a wet season so they can quickly establish new roots.  A little slow release fertilizer mixed into the soil also helps. Do not use Epsom salts on new plants.  Most divisions will bloom the same year, but smaller divisions may skip a season while they establish themselves.

Here’s a list of perennials that can be divided in early spring and notes on how often and other considerations.
Aster 1-3 years
Astilbe – 3-5 years
Beebalm (Monarda) 1-3 years
Campanula
Bellflower (Campanula) 3-5 years
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) 3-5 years
Catmint (Nepeta) 3-5 years
Chrysanthemum (hardy mums) 1-3 years
Common Sundrops (Oenothera fruticosa) 1-3 years
Coneflower (Echincea) 3-5 years
Coralbells (Heuchera) 1-3 years
Cornflower (Centaurea) 1-3 years
Cranesbill (Geranium) – may never need, divide infrequently or to get new plants
Daylily (Hemerocallis) 3-5 years
Delphinium – 1-3 years
Dianthus/ Carnation - 1-3 years
Fernleaf Bleeding Heart (Dicentra eximia)    1-3 years
Foamflower (Tiarella) 1-3 years
Gay Feather (Liatris) 3-5 years
Goatsbeard (Aruncus) after many years
Gooseneck Loosestrife, Yellow Loosestrife (Lysimachia)  3-5 years
Hosta varieties vary- some never need dividing, some are divided only when new plants are wanted, others get very crowded in a few years.
Heliopsis – more than 5 years or never
Japanese Anemone (Anemone x hybrida) 5 plus years
Lady's Mantle (Alchemilla) many years to never
Lemon Balm 1-3 years
Lungwort (Pulmonaria), 5 years plus, may take a year to recover
Mallow (Malvia) 3-5 years
Meadow Rue (Thalictrum) after 5 plus years
Meadowsweet (Filipendula) more than 5 years or never
Mints of all types 1-3 years
Obedient Plant (Physostegia) 1-3 years
Oregano- 3-5 years
Painted Daisy (Tanacetum) 1-3 years
Penstemon 1-3 years
Phlox- upright(Phlox paniculata) 3-5 years
Rudbeckia 3-5 years
Sea Thrift (Armeria) 3-5 years
Sedums, tall upright species every 3-5 years, creeping species every 1-3 years
Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum) 1-3 years
Speedwell (Veronica) 3-5 years
Spiderwort (Tradescantia) 1-3 years
Tall Phlox (Phlox paniculata) 1-3 years
Tickseed (Coreopsis) 1-3 years
Yarrow (Achillea) 1-3 years

Divide in fall

Here are some plants that do better if divided in the late summer or fall.  Bearded iris, every 3 -4 years, Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium), every 3-4 years, Creeping phlox 3-4 years, and Siberian Iris- infrequently, as needed.

Bulbs including lilies, tulips, daffodils and so on are divided in the fall.  (Dig in fall, separate bulbs and re-plant).  Peonies can be divided in the fall but only after many years, when they have reached large clumps and it’s necessary only if you want to propagate them.

Don’t divide

Plants that shouldn’t be divided include anything with a single, woody stem.  Also these plants do not care for division : Baby's Breath (Gypsophila), Balloon Flower (Platycodon), Butterfly Weed (Asclepias), Cimicifuga, Clematis, Evening Primrose (Oenothera missourienis), False Indigo (Baptisia), Flax (Linum), Gentian, Lavender,  Lupine, Monkshood (Aconitum),roses, rosemary, Russian Sage (Perovskia), garden sage and yucca. 
Evening primrose

If a plant suckers - produces new plants from the roots a short distance from the parent plant- those new plants can be dug in either the spring or fall and transplanted.  Some examples are lilac, trumpet vine and some older roses.  Sever the connecting roots to the parent plant and move the young plant either when the leaves are still small in the spring or after it goes dormant in the fall.

Tulips

Tulips are a sign that spring has arrived.  If you want to tiptoe through the tulips in your own colorful tulip patch, or just admire their beauty, tulips are easy to grow. Tulips bloom from early spring just after the crocus to late spring.  There are tulips for every garden bed from rock gardens to large open beds.  Tuips are also excellent cut flowers.
Tulip Schoonard

Choosing tulips
Tulip flowers open in the morning and close at night, and each flower lasts for several days. Tulips come every color except true blue.  Tulips come in bi-colors, and streaked or flamed.  Chose some early, mid and late season bloomers if you want a long color show.  Species tulips usually bloom early and are shorter than other varieties.  They may have several blooms on one stem.  Most garden tulips, however, produce one flower per bulb. There are lily flowering tulips that have long, pointed flower petals, tulips with fringed petals, and tulips whose blooms look like peonies.  There are even tulips that are fragrant.  There are thousands of named varieties of tulips.  A good bulb catalog will help you make decisions. 

While daffodils and narcissus are long lived in the garden, tulips often fade out and disappear after a year or two, especially in warmer areas.  This is because they prefer a dry area after they go dormant and our flower beds are generally kept watered.  Species tulips are not as fussy as the hybrids.  They may actually spread slowly in the garden if they like the site.

Look for varieties of tulips that promise perennial lifestyles.  Some varieties are more likely than others to become long term garden residents. In zones 5-6 many tulips will return for years.  If tulips seem to disappear in your garden, you can dig and store tulip bulbs after the tops have died, to replant in the fall, or treat them as annuals and buy new ones each fall.  It’s a good practice to add new tulip bulbs each fall anyway.

When choosing tulip bulbs, look for plump, firm, clean bulbs that have most of their papery brown covering attached.  Bulbs that are soft, have moldy areas or look shriveled up, should not be purchased.  Species tulips generally have smaller bulbs.   Economy mixes with small bulbs may have some bulbs that will not bloom the first year after planting.

To prolong the tulip blooming period pay attention to the bloom period listed in catalogs such as early, mid-season and late, and chose varieties from each blooming period.  

Planting and care

Tulips come from the colder, mountainous areas of the Middle East.  The bulbs need a period of cold weather to set flower buds. Gardeners in zones 3- 7 will be able to grow tulips without worrying about the chilling period.  Gardeners in zones 8 and higher will have to buy pre-chilled bulbs if they want spring tulips.  Tulips are planted in the fall before the ground freezes in your area.  They like a well-drained area and will not do well if their winter bed is water logged.  You can plant them in sunny areas or under deciduous trees.  They will get enough sun in the spring before the tree leafs out to complete their life cycle. 

Plant tulip bulbs with the pointed side up, in holes just big enough to fit the bulb and about twice as deep as the bulbs height.   You can mix some general purpose, slow release garden fertilizer, [5-10-5] with the soil around the bulbs. Don’t add bone meal, mice and squirrels love tulip bulbs and adding bone meal may actually attract them to the spot where the bulbs are buried.  In the spring, tulips are also a favorite of deer.  To keep deer from eating your tulips you can apply one of the deer repellant sprays, or put up fencing.   Planting tulips among allium and daffodil bulbs may help, as deer do not care for either of those bulbs. 

As tulip bulbs begin to emerge from the ground, apply a slow release fertilizer formulated for flower beds.  If mulch has matted down over the bulbs and they are struggling to emerge, gently remove some of the mulch.

Cold weather in spring seldom damages emerging bulbs unless the buds are fully formed and ready to open. At that time a quick covering with old sheets or newspaper might allow the flowers to bloom.
 
Parrot tulip
Keep flowers picked off as they fade.   Don’t allow them to go to seed as this takes  energy from the bulb which is forming next year’s flowers. The leaves of tulips must be allowed to yellow and dry up naturally if you wish the bulbs to produce new flowers next year. After the foliage has dried up it can be removed.  Planting bulbs among other perennials that will grow up and hide the drying leaves, such as daylilies and hosta, is recommended.

Using Tulips
Tulips are excellent for early color in perennial borders and beds.  They look best when planted in drifts or clumps of one color in formal beds.  In informal beds you can scatter clumps of mixed colors throughout the bed.  Tulips make excellent cut flowers.  Species tulips with small flowers are good for rock gardens and in naturalized areas.

Southern gardeners, of course, will have to plant pre-chilled bulbs each year.  In some areas, tulips are now being offered ready to bloom in flats, and you plant them out in the garden in the spring.  These are less likely to return the next year than those tulips which are planted in the fall.

A garden without tulips in the spring just lacks charm.  To keep your garden charming plant some tulips each fall.



Growing raspberries

What says summer more than a handful of tart-sweet raspberries?   Raspberries are the perfect fruit for Michigan gardeners to grow because fresh raspberries are difficult to ship and very expensive when found in grocery stores.  Raspberries are easy for gardeners to grow compared to other fruit, and don’t take much space.  The plants are inexpensive so buy enough to eat fresh and then freeze some for a delightful winter treat.

Some raspberry varieties for Michigan
Black raspberries.  en.wikipedia.com 

Raspberries come in red, purple, yellow and black.  There are summer bearing - [late June- July,] and ever-bearing, - small crops in June and again in August-September. Fall bearing raspberries are just ever-bearing varieties that are pruned so that they have only one heavier crop in the fall.   Summer bearing raspberries produce the heaviest crops; you can freeze or can the excess.  If you like fresh raspberries over a long season choose a few plants each of summer bearing and ever-bearing. Red summer bearers include Latham, Boyne, and Kilarney.  Royalty is a purple summer raspberry for Michigan.  Jewel and Bristol Black are black summer raspberries.  Polena, Caroline and Hertitage, are red ever-bearing raspberries.   Kiwigold is a yellow ever-bearing raspberry.

Planting raspberries

Raspberries should be planted in the early spring.  Buy certified, disease free raspberry plants from a good nursery.  Generally raspberries are sold as dormant roots, with a little stub of stem as a handle.  You can store these dormant roots in a cool place - [32- 50 degrees], for a few days until you are ready to plant them. Sometimes you will find potted raspberry plants in nurseries.  Even if you love raspberries, a small family will only need from 6-12 plants.   Raspberries spread, and a small row will soon be larger.  Plant raspberries about 2 foot apart in rows that are about 8 foot apart.

One of the best things you can do to ensure success with raspberries is to prepare your planting area in advance.   Clear the area so there is no grass or weeds left in the row.  To make raspberries easy to care for, they should be attached to a trellis system of some sort.  You can put sturdy posts at the end of each row and string heavy-duty wires or cables between the posts, or you can use fencing between the posts as support.   Mulch between the plants and mulch the paths or plan to mow the paths often.  Once weeds and grass take over a raspberry patch it is a huge undertaking to get things cleaned up again and the plants grow better without the competition from weeds.

Caring for raspberries

About two weeks after planting, or when you notice the plants are starting to grow, they should be fertilized with 12-12-12 or similar fertilizer.  Use about ½ pound per 25 feet of row or follow label directions.  Don’t let fertilizer directly touch the plants and water after fertilizing.  About 6 weeks later repeat the fertilization.   Every year after that your raspberries should be fertilized in early spring, just as growth starts, with about 1 pound of 12-12-12 per 25 feet of row.  Do not use Epsom salt on raspberries.

Raspberry plants do need lots of water, especially in hot weather and on sandy soils.  If dry conditions develop, watering your plants deeply once a week will keep them developing fruit.  Fruit that isn’t watered during dry spells may be small and crumbly.

Raspberries are prone to virus infections, especially if wild raspberries are nearby.  Always buy your raspberry plants from a reputable nursery who guarantees them to be virus free.  Symptoms of a viral infection can be yellowing, wilting leaves, curling leaves, mottled leaves, blistered leaves, leaves with orange powder on the back, stunted looking canes and shriveled canes with black areas along them.  Your county Extension office will be able to help you confirm a viral infection.  Viral infections cannot be cured. The plants need to be dug and destroyed.  Don’t plant raspberries in the same spot for several years.

Pests of raspberries include birds and Japanese beetles.  You can keep birds away with netting over the plants as soon as the berries begin to ripen.  Japanese beetles are harder to control.  They attack fruit as it ripens, making pesticide application tricky.  You can hand pick them or wash them off with a hose sprayer full of insecticidal soap.  Do not spray them with dish washing soap or other concoctions.

Pruning raspberries

Pruning and thinning correctly is the key to keeping your raspberry plants strong and productive.  The roots of raspberries are perennial, but the canes, or stems, each last only two years.  Each type of raspberry requires slightly different types of pruning.  If you have purchased a mixture of raspberry types it is best to keep the types together and labeled so you know how to prune.

Summer bearing raspberries should not be pruned at all the first year, just tie them to the supports you have put in. They won’t have a crop the first year.  In the second year, after they have had a crop and it has been harvested, cut off all the canes that bore fruit right to the ground.  Leave all the new young canes that have developed. New canes have green stems; old ones have brown, woody looking stems. 

In the third spring thin the canes of summer bearing raspberries you left to about 6 canes per foot of row.  Trim the ones you leave back to chest height- about 4 foot- and if they had winterkill, trim off any dead areas.  Do your pruning in early spring, just before growth starts, and make your cuts just above a leaf node, (joint). Repeat every year. Black and purple raspberries may have long side branches the second and following years that should be shortened to about 10 inches.

Ever-bearing raspberries may have a small crop the first fall.  Do not cut off any canes, they will fruit again early next summer on the same canes.  After those canes have produced fruit, cut them out.  Don’t prune any canes the third year, and thereafter, until they have produced fruit again, but you can thin them out in the spring if the rows are crowded and cut off winter killed areas.  After the second year you may also want to trim the canes back to about 4-foot high each year in the spring.


Fall bearing raspberries are fairly simple to prune. Fall bearing varieties are actually ever-bearers that are pruned differently.  In the first year you will get a small crop in the fall.  In early spring of the second year cut all canes right to the ground.  You’ll get a fall crop.  Repeat every year- cut all canes off in early spring.  You will have to thin plants in the rows in spring also. 

Harvesting raspberries

Keep raspberries harvested as they ripen to keep them producing longer.  Raspberries slip off the stem leaving a white cone shaped structure behind.  This is normal and you don’t need to cut those off.

Don’t wash raspberries until just before you are ready to use them.  Raspberries don’t keep well for more than a day or two.  Store them in the refrigerator and use promptly.  If you have excess berries you can freeze them.  Spread them out on a cookie sheet and place in the freezer until firm.  You can then put them in freezer bags for long term storage.  You can also freeze raspberries in a sugar syrup. Another way to preserve raspberries is to make jam or preserves from them.

Lichens

Lichens, the usually gray-green scaly growths found on many trees and on other substances do not harm the trees. They are a symbiotic, (mutually beneficial), combination of an algae and a fungi and the only thing they need a tree for is support. All of their needs are met from the air or the photosynthetic processes of the algae. 

Many people who see lichens on a tree are alarmed and think that the lichen is killing the tree. If a tree is dead or dying and covered with lichen it is only a coincidence, the lichen is not the cause. Lichens may grow on anything that is standing still, including rocks and metal. Lichens help break rock down into soil, as they creep into tiny crevices in the surface and expand them.
Lichen

There are many species of lichens, the color and form may vary from the common gray - green lacy growths found on trees.  Lichens only grow where the air is not heavily polluted so if you have an abundance of lichens in your area be happy.

Lichens are eaten by many mammals including caribou, deer, antelope, moose and flying squirrels. Over 50 species of North American birds use lichens for food, nest building, or other uses.  Hummingbirds often stick lichens on their mud nests to disguise them.  Many species of insects, amphibians and reptiles use lichens as food, hunting grounds and homes. Lichens are a valuable and interesting part of natural systems and should be protected.

Get out and listen to the frog concert
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. You can also ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact susanmklaffer@yahoo.com  Phone 810-664-8912

New-Lapeer Area Horticulture Society, Plant and Garden Sale,  May 7, 2016  8 am - 4 pm at Siciliano's,  1900 North Lapeer Road, Lapeer.  A variety of plants and garden items from LHS members will be for sale.  Please stop and shop.

New- 6th Annual Plant & Flower Sale Fri, May 6, 9 am-5 pm, Culver's, 4963 Interpark Drive North, Lake Orion, Michigan.
Habitat for Humanity- Oakland County sponsors and benefits from the sale at  Culver's. Annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs, trees, hanging baskets & more.  For more info call 248-338-1843, ext. 303.

New- Plant Sale Sat, May 7, 10am-2pm, Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Offering a wide selection of plants, including annuals, perennials, hostas & companions, herbs & more.  For more info contact;  www.hiddenlakegardens.msu.edu.

New-South Lyon Plant Exchange Sat, May 7, 9am-11am Witch's Hat Museum Depot Pk. Area. 300 Dorothy St, South Lyon, MI

Come swap with other gardeners. More info call 248-437-0154  Sponsored by the 4 Seasons Garden Club.

New-Project Grow Plant Sale Fri, May 6,through Sunday.  Dawn Farm, 6633 Stony Creek in Ann Arbor.
         
By Project Grow at Dawn Farm. Wide selection of heirloom tomatoes, basil, sweet & hot peppers. Advance orders: www.ProjectGrowGardens.org.

New- 44th Annual Spring Plant Sale Tue, May 10, 10am-7pm, and 10am-2pm, Wed. May 11,  Cranbrook House and Gardens, 380 Lone Pine Rd, Bloomfield Hills, MI.
Herbs, tropicals, perennials, native plants/wildflowers & more.  For more information www.housegardens.cranbrook.edu.

Heritage Peonies: Beautiful Then, Glorious Now Fri, April 22, 9:15am, Meadow Brook Hall, 480 South Adams Road, Rochester MI
A talk about heritage peonies and how to grow them, featuring guest speaker Dr. David C. Michener. Sponsored by Meadow Brook Garden Club $5. 2483646210.
2016 Educational Gardening Conference, Sat, April 23, 8 am – 4:15 pm, Oakland Schools Conference Center, 2111 Pontiac Lake Rd, Waterford Twp, MI
Keynote Speakers: Karen Bussolini,(Jazzing Up the Garden),  Ellen Ecker Ogden, (The Art of Growing Food), Barry Glick (Woodland Wonders from the Wild). Garden marketplace, entertainment and more.         
Sponsored by Master Gardener Society of Oakland County, Inc.  $80. No registration at the door.  Registration brochure at http://www.mgsoc.org/2016_ConferenceRegistrationColor.pdf


Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.

I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com

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