April 19,
2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim Willis
Hi Gardeners
 |
| Apricot |
Well that warm spell we had over the weekend was quite pleasant and quite
a contrast to the weekend before. But it’s
Tuesday and that means the weather is changing.
We’ll be cooler for the next few days, with rain, not snow, Thursday,
but the weather will actually be normal for April. That’s a good thing because we don’t want the
fruit trees to bud out too early and get blasted by frost and that heat was
pushing things along quickly.
I have hyacinths, windflowers, Spanish bluebells, daffodils and a few
early tulips in bloom. The apricot tree
is blooming and was covered with bees.
Magnolias and forsythia are blooming.
The honeybells are blooming. The dandelions, chickweed and purple
deadnettle are blooming like crazy. We
mowed part of our lawn for the first time.
I saw both barn and tree swallows this week. No hummers yet but I know they’ll be here
soon.
My pansies quickly recovered from being snow covered and are starting to
bloom again. Several people have
mentioned to me that their daylilies look bad, yellow and bleached out looking
from frost damage. I have damage here
too but those plants will recover. The
common daylily or ditch lily is especially hard to kill, but even garden
daylilies should be fine.
I was able to get lettuce and peas planted, both in the garden and in a
box in my little greenhouse. I divided
and transplanted some leeks that came up in the garden. There are also some onion volunteers almost
big enough to eat. I have moved many
seedlings from the house to the greenhouse. I have started digging up and dividing plants
in my biggest flower bed which was overcome with garden phlox. There’s an article below about which garden
perennials can be divided in the spring below.
 |
| windflower |
One disappointing finding this week, or maybe I should say maddening finding
was that the deer have come up in two of my garden beds and eaten daylilies and
tulips right to the ground. I really,
really hate deer. The daylilies will probably recover but the tulips won’t
bloom this year and may not return. I
had spent several hours last fall planting some 300 new tulips in one half
circle bed and was just waiting for my pretty show. Now half the circle is gone, and the other
half is draped in black netting. There’s
an article about tulips, one of my favorite plants, below.
Last night I spoke to the Lapeer Horticultural Society about a new
perspective on non-native plants. I have
put the outline of that talk on this blog site with a suggested reading list if
you are interested. Just scroll down to
the bottom of the page and click on previous blog post.
Dividing
perennials in spring
Early spring is an excellent time to divide and thin some perennial
plants. Plants recover from
transplanting much easier in cool, damp weather. Dividing your perennials is often necessary to
keep them healthy and blooming and keeps the flower beds from becoming a tangled
mess. You can start new beds or give
away the divisions.
Some species of plants need dividing more frequently than others. A few species do better if divided in the
fall. And there are species of plants
that you don’t divide unless it’s the only way to get a new start of the plant
and others you shouldn’t divide at all. While there are guidelines for the amount of
time between dividing different species of plants the gardener should always
use their own judgement. In general if
the plant has numerous crowns, (crowns look like individual plants) looks like
it’s packed into its space and has stopped blooming well it’s probably time to
divide it. You may want to divide and
thin out some species of plants if they are encroaching on other plants space.
 |
| Echinacea |
You may not want to divide plants if they have grown little since you
planted them, even though as a species it’s common to have to divide them frequently. Each plant in its unique environment has a
different growth pattern. Keeping
records, especially photo records, helps the gardener remember which plants
looked overcrowded the previous season and need to be divided.
You can do the division as soon as you see new growth or even before if
you know the location of the plant. It’s
easier to work with plants when the foliage is still small. Decide in advance
if you are going to keep and re-plant the divisions or compost them. Be prepared to either pot up divisions or
re-plant them in another garden bed soon after dividing them, the sooner the
better, if you want to keep the plants.
You’ll need a good spade and possibly a heavy duty knife, to dig and
divide your perennials. First dig
around the perennial clump and lift the whole clump out on a tarp or piece of
cardboard. Gently wash away most of the
soil with a garden hose if you have access.
Study the clump and decide where you can easily divide the plants and
how many divisions you could make.
Usually 2-3 crowns and root sections are kept together. Sometimes you may want to divide the plant
into individual crowns and roots. You
want a good healthy looking clump for each new plant.
You can sometimes separate the plants with your fingers, gently pulling
the clump apart. Other times you may
need to use a knife or even the shovel to divide the plants. Some plants like ornamental grasses may need
a saw to divide them. Some roots and foliage may be damaged when divisions are
made. This is unfortunate but necessary
in certain cases. Most perennials are
pretty tough and recover quickly, especially in early spring. In some species the center of the plant or
other portions may have dead areas.
These should be cut out and discarded.
Keep your divisions moist and out of the direct sun until you re-plant
them. After planting keep them watered
unless it’s a wet season so they can quickly establish new roots. A little slow release fertilizer mixed into
the soil also helps. Do not use Epsom salts on new plants. Most divisions will bloom the same year, but
smaller divisions may skip a season while they establish themselves.
Here’s a list of perennials that can be divided in early spring and notes
on how often and other considerations.
Aster 1-3 years
Astilbe – 3-5 years
Beebalm (Monarda) 1-3 years
 |
| Campanula |
Bellflower (Campanula) 3-5 years
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) 3-5 years
Catmint (Nepeta) 3-5 years
Chrysanthemum (hardy mums) 1-3 years
Common Sundrops (Oenothera fruticosa) 1-3 years
Coneflower (Echincea) 3-5 years
Coralbells (Heuchera) 1-3 years
Cornflower (Centaurea) 1-3 years
Cranesbill (Geranium) – may never need, divide infrequently or to get new
plants
Daylily (Hemerocallis) 3-5 years
Delphinium – 1-3 years
Dianthus/ Carnation - 1-3 years
Fernleaf Bleeding Heart (Dicentra eximia)
1-3 years
Foamflower (Tiarella) 1-3 years
Gay Feather (Liatris) 3-5 years
Goatsbeard (Aruncus) after many years
Gooseneck Loosestrife, Yellow Loosestrife (Lysimachia) 3-5 years
Hosta varieties vary- some never need dividing, some are divided only
when new plants are wanted, others get very crowded in a few years.
Heliopsis – more than 5 years or never
Japanese Anemone (Anemone x hybrida) 5 plus years
Lady's Mantle (Alchemilla) many years to never
Lemon Balm 1-3 years
Lungwort (Pulmonaria), 5 years plus, may take a year to recover
Mallow (Malvia) 3-5 years
Meadow Rue (Thalictrum) after 5 plus years
Meadowsweet (Filipendula) more than 5 years or never
Mints of all types 1-3 years
Obedient Plant (Physostegia) 1-3 years
Oregano- 3-5 years
Painted Daisy (Tanacetum) 1-3 years
Penstemon 1-3 years
Phlox- upright(Phlox paniculata) 3-5 years
Rudbeckia 3-5 years
Sea Thrift (Armeria) 3-5 years
Sedums, tall upright species every 3-5 years, creeping species every 1-3
years
Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum) 1-3 years
Speedwell (Veronica) 3-5 years
Spiderwort (Tradescantia) 1-3 years
Tall Phlox (Phlox paniculata) 1-3 years
Tickseed (Coreopsis) 1-3 years
Yarrow (Achillea) 1-3 years
Divide in fall
Here are some plants that do better if divided in the late summer or
fall. Bearded iris, every 3 -4 years, Jacob's
Ladder (Polemonium), every 3-4 years, Creeping phlox 3-4 years, and Siberian
Iris- infrequently, as needed.
Bulbs including lilies, tulips, daffodils and so on are divided in the fall. (Dig in fall, separate bulbs and re-plant). Peonies can be divided in the fall but only
after many years, when they have reached large clumps and it’s necessary only
if you want to propagate them.
Don’t divide
Plants that shouldn’t be divided include anything with a single, woody
stem. Also these plants do not care for
division : Baby's Breath (Gypsophila), Balloon Flower
(Platycodon), Butterfly Weed (Asclepias), Cimicifuga, Clematis, Evening
Primrose (Oenothera missourienis), False Indigo (Baptisia), Flax (Linum),
Gentian, Lavender, Lupine, Monkshood
(Aconitum),roses, rosemary, Russian Sage (Perovskia), garden sage and yucca.
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| Evening primrose |
If a plant suckers - produces new plants from the roots a short distance
from the parent plant- those new plants can be dug in either the spring or fall
and transplanted. Some examples are
lilac, trumpet vine and some older roses.
Sever the connecting roots to the parent plant and move the young plant
either when the leaves are still small in the spring or after it goes dormant
in the fall.
Tulips
Tulips are a sign that spring has arrived. If you want to tiptoe through the tulips in
your own colorful tulip patch, or just admire their beauty, tulips are easy to
grow. Tulips bloom from early spring just after the crocus to late spring. There are tulips for every garden bed from rock
gardens to large open beds. Tuips are
also excellent cut flowers.
 |
| Tulip Schoonard |
Choosing
tulips
Tulip flowers open in the morning and close at night, and each flower
lasts for several days. Tulips come every color except true blue. Tulips come in bi-colors, and streaked or
flamed. Chose some early, mid and late
season bloomers if you want a long color show.
Species tulips usually bloom early and are shorter than other
varieties. They may have several blooms
on one stem. Most garden tulips,
however, produce one flower per bulb. There are lily flowering tulips that have
long, pointed flower petals, tulips with fringed petals, and tulips whose
blooms look like peonies. There are even
tulips that are fragrant. There are
thousands of named varieties of tulips. A
good bulb catalog will help you make decisions.
While daffodils and narcissus are long lived in the garden, tulips often
fade out and disappear after a year or two, especially in warmer areas. This is because they prefer a dry area after
they go dormant and our flower beds are generally kept watered. Species tulips are not as fussy as the
hybrids. They may actually spread slowly
in the garden if they like the site.
Look for varieties of tulips that promise perennial lifestyles. Some varieties are more likely than others to
become long term garden residents. In zones 5-6 many tulips will return for
years. If tulips seem to disappear in
your garden, you can dig and store tulip bulbs after the tops have died, to
replant in the fall, or treat them as annuals and buy new ones each fall. It’s a good practice to add new tulip bulbs
each fall anyway.
When choosing tulip bulbs, look for plump, firm, clean bulbs that have
most of their papery brown covering attached.
Bulbs that are soft, have moldy areas or look shriveled up, should not
be purchased. Species tulips generally
have smaller bulbs. Economy mixes with
small bulbs may have some bulbs that will not bloom the first year after
planting.
To prolong the tulip blooming period pay attention to the bloom period
listed in catalogs such as early, mid-season and late, and chose varieties from
each blooming period.
Planting and
care
Tulips come from the colder, mountainous areas of the Middle East. The bulbs need a period of cold weather to
set flower buds. Gardeners in zones 3- 7 will be able to grow tulips without
worrying about the chilling period.
Gardeners in zones 8 and higher will have to buy pre-chilled bulbs if
they want spring tulips. Tulips are
planted in the fall before the ground freezes in your area. They like a well-drained area and will not do
well if their winter bed is water logged.
You can plant them in sunny areas or under deciduous trees. They will get enough sun in the spring before
the tree leafs out to complete their life cycle.
Plant tulip bulbs with the pointed side up, in holes just big enough to
fit the bulb and about twice as deep as the bulbs height. You can mix some general purpose, slow
release garden fertilizer, [5-10-5] with the soil around the bulbs. Don’t add
bone meal, mice and squirrels love tulip bulbs and adding bone meal may
actually attract them to the spot where the bulbs are buried. In the spring, tulips are also a favorite of
deer. To keep deer from eating your
tulips you can apply one of the deer repellant sprays, or put up fencing. Planting tulips among allium and daffodil
bulbs may help, as deer do not care for either of those bulbs.
As tulip bulbs begin to emerge from the ground, apply a slow release
fertilizer formulated for flower beds.
If mulch has matted down over the bulbs and they are struggling to
emerge, gently remove some of the mulch.
Cold weather in spring seldom damages emerging bulbs unless the buds are
fully formed and ready to open. At that time a quick covering with old sheets
or newspaper might allow the flowers to bloom.
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| Parrot tulip |
Keep flowers picked off as they fade.
Don’t allow them to go to seed as this takes energy from the bulb which is forming next
year’s flowers. The leaves of tulips must be allowed to yellow and dry up
naturally if you wish the bulbs to produce new flowers next year. After the
foliage has dried up it can be removed.
Planting bulbs among other perennials that will grow up and hide the
drying leaves, such as daylilies and hosta, is recommended.
Using Tulips
Tulips are excellent for early color in perennial borders and beds. They look best when planted in drifts or
clumps of one color in formal beds. In
informal beds you can scatter clumps of mixed colors throughout the bed. Tulips make excellent cut flowers. Species tulips with small flowers are good
for rock gardens and in naturalized areas.
Southern gardeners, of course, will have to plant pre-chilled bulbs each
year. In some areas, tulips are now
being offered ready to bloom in flats, and you plant them out in the garden in
the spring. These are less likely to
return the next year than those tulips which are planted in the fall.
A garden without tulips in the spring just lacks charm. To keep your garden charming plant some
tulips each fall.
Growing raspberries
What says summer more than a handful of tart-sweet raspberries? Raspberries are the perfect fruit for
Michigan gardeners to grow because fresh raspberries are difficult to ship and
very expensive when found in grocery stores.
Raspberries are easy for gardeners to grow compared to other fruit, and
don’t take much space. The plants are
inexpensive so buy enough to eat fresh and then freeze some for a delightful
winter treat.
Some raspberry varieties
for Michigan
 |
| Black raspberries. en.wikipedia.com |
Raspberries come in red, purple, yellow and black. There are summer bearing - [late June- July,]
and ever-bearing, - small crops in June and again in August-September. Fall
bearing raspberries are just ever-bearing varieties that are pruned so that
they have only one heavier crop in the fall.
Summer bearing raspberries produce the heaviest crops; you can freeze or
can the excess. If you like fresh
raspberries over a long season choose a few plants each of summer bearing and
ever-bearing. Red summer bearers include Latham, Boyne, and Kilarney. Royalty is a purple summer raspberry for
Michigan. Jewel and Bristol Black are
black summer raspberries. Polena,
Caroline and Hertitage, are red ever-bearing raspberries. Kiwigold is a yellow ever-bearing raspberry.
Planting raspberries
Raspberries should be planted in the early spring. Buy certified, disease free raspberry plants
from a good nursery. Generally
raspberries are sold as dormant roots, with a little stub of stem as a
handle. You can store these dormant
roots in a cool place - [32- 50 degrees], for a few days until you are ready to
plant them. Sometimes you will find potted raspberry plants in nurseries. Even if you love raspberries, a small family
will only need from 6-12 plants.
Raspberries spread, and a small row will soon be larger. Plant raspberries about 2 foot apart in rows
that are about 8 foot apart.
One of the best things you can do to ensure success with raspberries is
to prepare your planting area in advance.
Clear the area so there is no grass or weeds left in the row. To make raspberries easy to care for, they
should be attached to a trellis system of some sort. You can put sturdy posts at the end of each
row and string heavy-duty wires or cables between the posts, or you can use
fencing between the posts as support.
Mulch between the plants and mulch the paths or plan to mow the paths
often. Once weeds and grass take over a
raspberry patch it is a huge undertaking to get things cleaned up again and the
plants grow better without the competition from weeds.
Caring for raspberries
About two weeks after planting, or when you notice the plants are
starting to grow, they should be fertilized with 12-12-12 or similar
fertilizer. Use about ½ pound per 25
feet of row or follow label directions.
Don’t let fertilizer directly touch the plants and water after
fertilizing. About 6 weeks later repeat
the fertilization. Every year after
that your raspberries should be fertilized in early spring, just as growth
starts, with about 1 pound of 12-12-12 per 25 feet of row. Do not use Epsom salt on raspberries.
Raspberry plants do need lots of water, especially in hot weather and on
sandy soils. If dry conditions develop,
watering your plants deeply once a week will keep them developing fruit. Fruit that isn’t watered during dry spells may
be small and crumbly.
Raspberries are prone to virus infections, especially if wild raspberries
are nearby. Always buy your raspberry
plants from a reputable nursery who guarantees them to be virus free. Symptoms of a viral infection can be
yellowing, wilting leaves, curling leaves, mottled leaves, blistered leaves,
leaves with orange powder on the back, stunted looking canes and shriveled
canes with black areas along them. Your
county Extension office will be able to help you confirm a viral infection. Viral infections cannot be cured. The plants
need to be dug and destroyed. Don’t
plant raspberries in the same spot for several years.
Pests of raspberries include birds and Japanese beetles. You can keep birds away with netting over the
plants as soon as the berries begin to ripen.
Japanese beetles are harder to control.
They attack fruit as it ripens, making pesticide application
tricky. You can hand pick them or wash
them off with a hose sprayer full of insecticidal soap. Do not spray them with dish washing soap or
other concoctions.
Pruning raspberries
Pruning and thinning correctly is the key to keeping your raspberry
plants strong and productive. The roots
of raspberries are perennial, but the canes, or stems, each last only two
years. Each type of raspberry requires
slightly different types of pruning. If
you have purchased a mixture of raspberry types it is best to keep the types
together and labeled so you know how to prune.
Summer bearing raspberries should not be pruned at all the first year,
just tie them to the supports you have put in. They won’t have a crop the first
year. In the second year, after they
have had a crop and it has been harvested, cut off all the canes that bore
fruit right to the ground. Leave all the
new young canes that have developed. New canes have green stems; old ones have
brown, woody looking stems.
In the third spring thin the canes of summer bearing raspberries you left
to about 6 canes per foot of row. Trim
the ones you leave back to chest height- about 4 foot- and if they had
winterkill, trim off any dead areas. Do
your pruning in early spring, just before growth starts, and make your cuts
just above a leaf node, (joint). Repeat every year. Black and purple
raspberries may have long side branches the second and following years that
should be shortened to about 10 inches.
Ever-bearing raspberries may have a small crop the first fall. Do not cut off any canes, they will fruit
again early next summer on the same canes.
After those canes have produced fruit, cut them out. Don’t prune any canes the third year, and thereafter,
until they have produced fruit again, but you can thin them out in the spring
if the rows are crowded and cut off winter killed areas. After the second year you may also want to
trim the canes back to about 4-foot high each year in the spring.
Fall bearing raspberries are fairly simple to prune. Fall bearing
varieties are actually ever-bearers that are pruned differently. In the first year you will get a small crop in
the fall. In early spring of the second
year cut all canes right to the ground.
You’ll get a fall crop. Repeat
every year- cut all canes off in early spring.
You will have to thin plants in the rows in spring also.
Harvesting raspberries
Keep raspberries harvested as they ripen to keep them producing longer. Raspberries slip off the stem leaving a white
cone shaped structure behind. This is
normal and you don’t need to cut those off.
Don’t wash raspberries until just before you are ready to use them. Raspberries don’t keep well for more than a
day or two. Store them in the
refrigerator and use promptly. If you
have excess berries you can freeze them.
Spread them out on a cookie sheet and place in the freezer until
firm. You can then put them in freezer
bags for long term storage. You can also
freeze raspberries in a sugar syrup. Another way to preserve raspberries is to
make jam or preserves from them.
Lichens
Lichens, the usually gray-green scaly growths found on many trees and on
other substances do not harm the trees. They are a symbiotic, (mutually
beneficial), combination of an algae and a fungi and the only thing they need a
tree for is support. All of their needs are met from the air or the
photosynthetic processes of the algae.
Many people who see lichens on a tree are alarmed and think that the
lichen is killing the tree. If a tree is dead or dying and covered with lichen
it is only a coincidence, the lichen is not the cause. Lichens may grow on
anything that is standing still, including rocks and metal. Lichens help break
rock down into soil, as they creep into tiny crevices in the surface and expand
them.
 |
| Lichen |
There are many species of lichens, the color and form may vary from the
common gray - green lacy growths found on trees. Lichens only grow where the air is not
heavily polluted so if you have an abundance of lichens in your area be happy.
Lichens are eaten by many mammals including caribou, deer, antelope,
moose and flying squirrels. Over 50 species of North American birds use lichens
for food, nest building, or other uses.
Hummingbirds often stick lichens on their mud nests to disguise
them. Many species of insects, amphibians
and reptiles use lichens as food, hunting grounds and homes. Lichens are a
valuable and interesting part of natural systems and should be protected.
Get out and listen
to the frog concert
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and a library wants for
nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me. You can also
ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are
welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a
meeting for free. Contact
susanmklaffer@yahoo.com Phone
810-664-8912
New-Lapeer Area
Horticulture Society, Plant and Garden Sale,
May 7, 2016 8 am - 4 pm at Siciliano's, 1900 North Lapeer Road, Lapeer. A variety of plants and garden items from LHS
members will be for sale. Please stop
and shop.
New- 6th Annual Plant
& Flower Sale Fri, May 6, 9 am-5 pm, Culver's, 4963 Interpark
Drive North, Lake Orion, Michigan.
Habitat for Humanity-
Oakland County sponsors and benefits from the sale at Culver's. Annuals, perennials, vegetables,
herbs, trees, hanging baskets & more. For more info call 248-338-1843, ext. 303.
New- Plant Sale Sat, May 7, 10am-2pm, Hidden Lake
Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Offering a wide
selection of plants, including annuals, perennials, hostas & companions,
herbs & more. For more info contact;
www.hiddenlakegardens.msu.edu.
New-South Lyon Plant
Exchange Sat, May 7, 9am-11am Witch's Hat Museum Depot Pk. Area. 300 Dorothy St,
South Lyon, MI
Come swap with other
gardeners. More info call 248-437-0154 Sponsored by the 4 Seasons Garden Club.
New-Project Grow Plant Sale Fri, May 6,through Sunday. Dawn Farm, 6633 Stony Creek in Ann Arbor.
By Project Grow at
Dawn Farm. Wide selection of heirloom tomatoes, basil, sweet & hot peppers.
Advance orders: www.ProjectGrowGardens.org.
New- 44th Annual Spring
Plant Sale Tue, May 10, 10am-7pm, and 10am-2pm, Wed. May 11, Cranbrook House and Gardens, 380 Lone Pine
Rd, Bloomfield Hills, MI.
Herbs, tropicals,
perennials, native plants/wildflowers & more. For more information www.housegardens.cranbrook.edu.
Heritage Peonies: Beautiful Then,
Glorious Now Fri,
April 22, 9:15am, Meadow Brook Hall,
480 South Adams Road, Rochester MI
A talk
about heritage peonies and how to grow them, featuring guest speaker Dr. David
C. Michener. Sponsored by Meadow Brook Garden Club $5. 248‑364‑6210.
2016 Educational Gardening
Conference, Sat,
April 23, 8 am – 4:15 pm, Oakland Schools Conference Center, 2111 Pontiac Lake
Rd, Waterford Twp, MI
Keynote
Speakers: Karen Bussolini,(Jazzing Up the Garden), Ellen Ecker Ogden, (The Art of Growing Food), Barry
Glick (Woodland Wonders from the Wild). Garden marketplace, entertainment and
more.
Sponsored by
Master Gardener Society of Oakland County, Inc. $80. No registration at the door. Registration brochure at http://www.mgsoc.org/2016_ConferenceRegistrationColor.pdf
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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