April 12,
2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim Willis
Hi Gardeners
Yesterday was
a nice day- I actually got outside to garden a bit. Today is not so nice but a warmup is coming
and I am ready! I noticed dandelions and
purple deadnettle blooming in the lawn today.
Most of my outside flowering plants had their blooms wilted and
bedraggled looking but I see lots of buds coming on a variety of things and I
doubt those were harmed. The pansies I planted earlier also had their flowers
destroyed but the plants look ok.
A walk
around the yard saw green buds and even tiny leaves on many things like
barberry, honeysuckle, including the honeyberries, clematis, willows, and some
of my roses. Despite the cold recently
my roses look like they don’t have much winter damage. The common daylilies, the ditch lilies that I
have a ton of around the yard, were up about 6 inches and they are showing some
cold damage. But I am sure it won’t kill
them.
I have two
new plants blooming inside which I am excited about. One is Orange Jasmine, which smells like
orange blossoms or jasmine and the other is Jamaican Lady of the Night, which
smells like an Easter lily. I love
experimenting with new plants. I have
had these a year and they are not very big but I am hoping they get much
bigger.
I filled
and hung outside one of my hummingbird feeders as my records show that the
hummers start arriving soon. I need to
get my jelly feeder out too. The birds are singing like crazy and on the warm
days the frogs are too.
Growing great salad greens
If you are
a gardener that is eager to plant in the spring why not start with salad
greens? There is nothing tastier than a salad straight from the garden. Salad greens can be planted early, while the
soil is still cool. They are easy and
quick to grow and take up little space.
Salad greens are also an excellent beginning gardening project for
children.
Types of greens
Great salad
greens include more than iceburg or head lettuce. In fact, any other type of greens will give
you more taste and nutrition and are easier for home gardeners to grow. A mixture of greens including lettuces is
often called a mesclun mix. You can buy
pre-mixed mesclun greens or mix your own with seeds from things you like.
Easiest of
all greens to grow is leaf lettuce. Leaf
lettuce grows as single leaves on a stem and does not curl into a head. It comes in various shades of green and red. Some leaf lettuce has flat leaves but there
are also frilly leaved and lobed leaf varieties. Leaf lettuce can be planted outside a month
before the last frost is expected and will be ready to harvest in as little as
a month. Leaf lettuce is more nutritious than head lettuce, but the taste is a
little different.
Head
lettuce or iceburg lettuce is the lettuce most familiar to people but the
hardest lettuce for home gardeners to grow.
It makes round heads of pale green and yellow with a very mild
taste. It is low in nutrition compared
to other greens. Head lettuce needs a
long season of cool days to make mild flavored heads.
Butterhead
lettuce has leaves curled into loose heads.
The individual leaves are somewhat thicker than leaf lettuce. They can be solid green or tinged with red. The flavor is mild and crisp. Thy have more nutrition than head lettuce and
are a favorite of home gardeners.
Romaine or
cos lettuce has leaves that grow more upright, with a heavier rib to each
leaf. The leaves in the center of the
lettuce clump blanch to a creamy yellow.
They are excellent for Caesar salad.
Spinach is
another easy to grow green for salads.
There are several types of spinach.
The oriental types have arrow shaped leaves. Conventional spinach comes in flat leaf and
savoy varieties. Savoy leaves are deeply
quilted or crinkled. New Zealand Spinach
is not true spinach, but very close in taste and it grows better in warm
periods.
Both beets
and turnips have greens that are very tasty in salad. You can use whole baby plants you have
thinned from the rows or pinch off leaves from plants you intend to eat the
roots of later. There are also varieties
of beets and turnips that are grown primarily for the leaves that don’t form
large roots.
Escarole/
endive have leaves similar to lettuce but thicker. The taste is a little stronger. Escarole tolerates both heat and cold. Mustard comes in plain and frilly leaved
varieties and has a somewhat “sharp” or pungent taste. Kale has firm, upright leaves and also comes
in red and green varieties. It makes a good fall crop.
Other
greens include cress, chicory, arugula, purslane, pak choi, orach and sorrel.
Planting greens
Most salad
greens like to grow in the cooler times of the year and benefit from early
spring or fall planting. They tolerate
frost quite well. Full sun is best in
spring and fall but in the heat of summer an area that is shaded in the middle
of the day would be ideal.
Most greens
should be sown directly where you want them to grow. Firmly press lettuce seed down on the soil
but don’t cover it, it needs light to germinate. Cover the seed of other greens lightly. Keep your greens moist until they germinate
and keep them well watered while growing.
You may want to start the seeds of head lettuce inside and transfer
plants outside.
Greens are
also good crops to grow in containers.
They need only 6-8 inches of soil and a few large pots can grow a good
amount of greens. Growing in pots can
allow you to have greens close to the kitchen or to be able to move pots to
other locations as the seasons change.
Greens should
be sown in small quantities at three week intervals so you don’t have too much
to harvest at a time. They don’t take
long to grow so they could be sown early where you will plant warm weather
crops later. They can also be sown
between slow growing crops.
Greens
appreciate nitrogen fertilizers. A
fertilizer for grass, with high nitrogen content but no weed killers will
really give them a boost. You can also
use a garden fertilizer at planting.
Flea
beetles, tiny black bugs that eat holes in the leaves and end up in your salad,
are often a problem in plantings of greens.
The good news is that greens don’t need pollination to produce a crop so
they can be covered to keep out bugs.
Use a really lightweight spun row cover and make sure it is well anchored
at the ground.
Slugs and
snails can also be a problem in plantings of greens. You can cover the soil around the plants with
a layer of diatomaceous earth or sand which often helps. Raised beds or containers will also
help. Row covers don’t keep out slugs
and snails all the time, but may help.
Harvesting greens
Pick the
leaves of all greens when they are small and sweet. As they get older they get tougher and
bitter. Keep the plants from going to
seed as this tends to make the greens taste bitter also. If you see the plant putting out a long, tall,
narrow stalk it is a flower stalk and it should be snapped off. When it gets
really hot any greens still growing can get a bit bitter. You may want to pull out all the remaining
plants and discard them on the compost pile.
In late August you can plant another crop for fall greens.
Head,
romaine and butterhead lettuces are usually harvested as whole plants. But you can snip or pull off leaves of romaine
and butterhead lettuce and the plants will produce more leaves for a while
anyway. You can cut or pick leaves off
leaf lettuce, spinach, kale, turnips, beets, mustard, escarole and the plants
will keep producing more leaves. If you
want the roots of turnips and beets to develop then only harvest a few leaves
from each plant.
Growing
your own salad is one of the great joys of gardening and greens take so little
space and time that almost anyone can grow them. Plant some today!
Mosquitoes, Zika virus and other
considerations
Gardeners
get bitten by mosquitoes, it’s a given.
And if you are a gardener you may be wondering if you should be concerned
about Zika virus, which can be contracted through the bite of a mosquito. In Michigan and much of the northeast the
mosquitoes that carry Zika virus, Aedes
aegypti and A. albopictus are not
yet common. There are concerns however,
that other mosquitoes may eventually carry it.
And with a warming climate these mosquitos may eventually work
northward.
There are other
mosquito carried viruses such as chikungunya, dengue, West Nile Virus, and
several other encephalitis producing diseases, even malaria and yellow fever to
be wary of too. West Nile cases occur
almost every year in Michigan. These diseases are serious, and can cause
death. As a gardener you should do all
you can to prevent mosquitoes and to keep from being bitten by them. This is not the time to trust your health to
home remedies and mixes. And it would be
wise to support a mosquito control program in your county, even spraying with
pesticides for adult mosquitoes.
To keep
from getting bitten the CDC suggests using these products on your body and
clothing. Products with DEET including Off!, Cutter, Sawyer, and Ultrathon
brands. Deet is the most studied
insecticide in the world and has been used for over 40 years. It is a synthetic chemical product but if
label directions are followed it is extremely safe.
Some other
recommended mosquito repellants are products with Picaridin, also known as KBR
3023, such as Bayrepel, and icaridin, Cutter Advanced, Skin So Soft Bug Guard
Plus. Products with IR3535 such as Skin So Soft Bug Guard Plus, (another
formula), Expedition, and SkinSmart are also good. Products with Oil of lemon eucalyptus (OLE)
or para-menthane-diol (PMD) such as Repel are fairly effective.
Along with
repellant, wear long sleeves and pants when working in mosquito infested areas,
especially at dawn and dusk and on cloudy days.
Some mosquitoes bite right through clothes so a repellant safe to use on
clothing should be sprayed over clothing in high population areas.
You may
want to avoid floral scents on your body and clothes and drinking alcohol
before going out into mosquito areas.
Research has indicated these things attract more mosquitoes.
To prevent mosquitoes from hatching
Empty out
all standing water around the home.
Mosquitoes need water to lay their eggs and it only takes 3-10 days to
hatch and grow a new brood of mosquitoes.
Empty bird baths, pet dishes, stock tanks, and wading pools at least
every other day. Pick up or empty
anything in the yard that holds water, such as toys or trash.
Fill in low
spots in the yard that hold water with soil.
Fill holes in trees that collect water with sand.
Clean
clogged gutters. Make sure rain barrels
have a screened top or are treated with Bt.
Put screens
on septic vents or other sewer vents.
If water
cannot be emptied or drained treat the water with mosquito controls containing
Bt, a natural organism that harms only mosquitoes. You can find the doughnut shaped briquettes
in garden stores. Fish in ornamental
ponds help control mosquitoes and Bt won’t hurt them.
Make sure
all windows and doors have screens that are in good shape.
Getting rid of adult mosquitoes
Keep grass
and weeds trimmed around homes and outbuildings. Adult mosquitoes rest in vegetation during
the day and you don’t want to encourage them. Weedy areas can be sprayed with
insecticides like pyrethrins
or 5% malathion to kill adult mosquitoes but such spraying also kills many
beneficial insects. Many counties have
mosquito control programs but these generally spray along the roads. You may want to spray around your home if
it’s far from the road.
You have to
weigh the pros of spraying pesticides with the cons of reducing helpful
insects. If mosquitoes are very numerous
and diseases carried by mosquitoes have popped up in the area it’s probably
wiser to spray.
What doesn’t work for mosquitoes
There are no plants that you can just sit on the
patio or plant around the house that will effectively repel mosquitoes, despite
all those advertising claims. No
objective studies have ever found a plant that will do that. NONE! The
chemicals that repel insects must be extracted from the plants in some way and
applied to the skin. Even burning the
chemicals in a candle or as incense has little effect. Most studies find that burning a plain candle
is just as effective as burning a citronella one.
The citrosa
plant (Pelargonium citrosum ‘van Leenii’) sometimes advertised as Mosquito
plant, Mosquito Shoo, and other assorted names, is useless as a mosquito
repellant. No plant repels mosquitoes
just by sitting near you. This plant is
actually a scented leaved geranium and it does have a very small amount of
citronellol in it just as many other plants do.
You would have to crush the leaves and rub them on your skin for it to
have even the most fleeting effect.
Thousands
of these plants are sold each year, even though they don’t work and don’t even
have a pretty flower or form to redeem them.
Common Lemon Balm has 3-4 hundred percent more citronellol than Citrosa,
but don’t expect it to repel mosquitoes.
Citronella
has some repellant properties. The
problem with using citronella as an insect repellent is that it must be used in
a very strong concentration and the effect wears off quickly. Citronella is only effective if applied to
the skin. That causes another problem,
many people are allergic to strong concentrations or their skin becomes
irritated. Citronellol is absorbed
through the skin and some studies are linking exposure to the chemical to liver
damage and cancer.
Most
citronella products you buy at the store are so diluted that they contain
almost no active ingredient. It is a
waste of money to buy citronella oil or candles to burn unless you just like
the smell. No other products you burn to
make smoke are any more effective.
Some plants
have chemical ingredients that when extracted, do have mosquito repellant
properties. The problem is that the
active ingredients are costly and hard to extract or they have some serious
side effects. A chemical found in mints
for example, is effective as an insect repellant but some studies have found
kidney damage and genetic damage when it is used.
Using
essential oils and other home concocted mosquito repellants may have a fleeting
repellant effect. They wear off rapidly
and need to be re-applied frequently.
And because they are “natural” does not mean they are safe. Many of these home concoctions have oils and
other extracts that have serious side effects. You don’t want to avoid
mosquitoes by getting liver or kidney failure.
Other
things that do not work to control mosquitoes are ultrasonic devices and light
traps. Some traps using carbon dioxide
and pheromones show promise but are expensive and each trap appeals to
different species of the hundreds of mosquito species in the US. They haven’t been very effective on many
species of mosquitoes that are most likely to carry diseases.
In short –
don’t trust your life to these home remedies and so called natural
repellants. Use something with proven,
scientific based research backing it up, not just some claim by a
salesperson. Because it’s what’s at
stake- your life.
Butterfly Gardens
 |
| Cabbage butterfly on asters. |
Gardeners
generally love butterflies (well except for the few who actually damage our
garden plants) and want to attract more butterflies to the garden. There are
some interesting and beautiful moths that are also fun to watch. It’s more than choosing plants for
butterflies and moths to sip nectar from; it’s also about providing plants for
them to lay their eggs on and their caterpillars to eat.
All
butterflies and moths lay eggs that turn into caterpillars, which then spin a
pupae case or cocoon and then emerge from that as a butterfly. The caterpillars or larval stage of
butterflies and moths can be very destructive because they will be feeding on
the plant they hatch on and maybe others nearby. However only a few species of
butterflies and moths cause long term damage or death to their host
plants. Adult butterflies and moths
don’t live very long, a few months at most.
They usually don’t cause any damage and are helpful pollinators of many
plants.
You don’t
have to plant only native plants to attract butterflies and moths. While there are a few specialists who only
prefer one “host” plant (the plant they lay eggs on) many butterflies accept
several host plants and most visit a number of plants for nectar. Some of our butterflies are themselves
introduced species so they are flexible in food and egg laying resources. When glancing through any butterfly and moth
identification guide you’ll often notice that many of the plants that they
prefer to get nectar from or lay eggs on are non-native, common weeds or garden
flowers.
Many butterflies
prefer flowers that have flat surfaces, or have short nectar tubes although a
few butterflies and moths are drawn to flowers with long tubes. Butterflies and moths seem drawn to colorful,
bright flowers like yellow, orange, red and pink. Some also like purple or blue flowers. Scent
in flowers is not as important as it is for bees. Night flying moths prefer
white flowers. Some butterflies and moths don’t eat at all as adults, some only
sip at mineral enriched mud, some prefer rotten fruit or sap, and some are even
carnivorous. And even in this advanced
scientific world we don’t know what nectar plants and host plants that some of
the rarer species of butterflies and moths prefer.
You
probably won’t be able to attract all the butterflies and moths that exist in
your state to your garden, because some butterflies and moths prefer plants
that themselves like to grow in a specialized environment like a bog or
beach. And some butterflies and moths
may actually be unwelcome on your property, like the pretty sphinx moth who
lays eggs on your tomatoes that turn into ugly tomato hornworms and the cabbage
butterfly who lays eggs on your cabbage and broccoli that turn into little
green cabbage worms. But many gardeners do want to attract as many kinds of non-harmful
butterflies and moths as possible.
When you
want to attract butterflies and moths to your garden you should provide
colorful nectar flowers in larger patches of the same color, rather than as
individual dots of color here and there.
Host plants for caterpillars should also be in patches. One large buddleia can provide a good patch
of color but for maximum attraction you’d want to plant a lot of marigolds for
example, of about the same color.
Butterflies
seem to prefer flowers in the sun, although they sometimes visit shade
flowers. A patch of mud, especially with
a little manure mixed in, and some soft fruit like a mushy banana, a slice of
melon, soft strawberries on a plate somewhere can increase the number of
species attracted to your garden. But
beware soft fruit can attract bees and hornets as well as flies.
Butterfly
feeders also exist in which you place sugar water like a hummingbird feeder but
they are not that effective in attracting butterflies and will attract a lot of
bees, hornets and ants too. It’s
probably best to stay natural with plants.
There are
some plants that will attract the maximum number of harmless butterflies and
moths in a list below. These are plants
that a number of species use. Some may
be both nectar sources for adult butterflies and moths and host plants for
caterpillars. A good identification
guide will often tell you if a rare species of butterfly or moth has been seen
in your county and what host and nectar plants it prefers. You may be able to add these plants to your
garden also.
 |
| Tiger swallowtail on calibrachoa |
If you wish
to attract butterflies and moths you’ll have to decide if you are willing to
tolerate some plants that are considered weeds and that may not be very
attractive to the human eye. You can
choose only pretty garden flowers but that will limit what species are
attracted. One idea is to let one area
of your property grow the weedy plants, maybe one that can be hidden a bit.
Plants that
might attract butterflies or moths but those butterflies or moths would be unwelcome,
such as cabbage, aren’t mentioned. Try
to add as many of the listed plants to your garden as possible, remember
patches of the same plant are better than singles. The plants on the list below
are chosen for Michigan and surrounding states but many are good for other
places as well.
Butterfly plants
Anise
hyssop
Asters,
native species and cultivars
Baby’s
breath
Baptisia
Bee balm-
monarda, all kinds- bergamot
Bearberry
Beech
Beggars
Ticks- bidens- any kind
Black eyed
Susans, rudbeckia species
Blackberries
Blueberries
Black
cherry, choke cherries
Black
locust
Bog
rosemary (Andromeda glacophylla)
Boneset
Buddleia
Burdock
Buttonbush-
Cephalanthus occidentalis
Calibrachoa
(Million bells)
Campion
Catnip
Ceanothus sanquineus (wild lilac)
Cheese
mallow
Clovers of
all kinds- gardeners may want some of the ornamental crimson/reds
Columbine,
all kinds
Crown vetch
Currants
Daisies of
any kind, wild and domestic
Dames Rocket
Dandelions
Dill
Dogbane
Fireweed
Fleabane
Grasses-
native and non-native, bluestem, bentgrass, Bermuda, beardgrass, lovegrass,
panic grass and others – many butterflies, skippers and moths that favor
grasses are pretty but pests.
Goldenrod
Gooseberry
Hawkweed,
orange and yellow
Hollyhocks
Honey
locust
Honeysuckle,
native and non-native
Hops
Iris
versicolor
Ironweed
Joe Pye
Weed
Knapweed
 |
| Unknown butterfly on Dames Rocket |
Knotweed
Labrador
Tea
Lambsquarters
Lantana
Leadplant
Lobelia
Lupines
Pearly
everlasting
Phlox, both
native species and domesticated cultivars
Pigweed
Plantain
Mapleleaf
viburnum
May apple
Milkweed- Butterfly
weed- ascleplias any kinds
Mints of
any type
Mustard/rape,
Brassica kaber
Nettles (Urtica
species)
New Jersey
tea
Oaks –
native species
Oregano
Passionflower
Paw Paw
Prickly
Pear cactus
Privet
Purple
loosestrife (yes many butterflies like it)
Purslane
Queen
Anne’s Lace
Redbud
Rockcress
Sassafras
Self-heal
Senna
(cassia)
Sheep
sorrel (Rumex)
Shrubby
cinguefoil (Potentilla) all kinds
Spicebush
Staghorn
sumac, other sumacs
St. Johns
wort
 |
| Monarch on Milkweed |
Strawberries,
all kinds
Sunflowers,
all kinds
Teasel
Tickseed
Toadflax
Thistles,
bull, Russian, all kinds
Vervain
Vetches,
all kinds
Violets,
all kinds
Wild plum,
Prunus americana
Willows
White pine
Wisteria,
native or Chinese
Yarrow- all
types
Zinnias
This is not
a complete list of all the plants that butterflies utilize. Many tropical plants put outside in summer
also attract them and many other annuals and perennial flowers get at least
some attention from them. A colorful
garden with a variety of species and letting the garden edges go a little wild
will do wonders to attract butterflies and moths.
Sugar doesn’t belong in the garden
As spring
planting season arrives I am seeing and hearing planting recommendations that
make me cringe a bit. One of these is to
put sugar in planting holes, or pots or to sprinkle sugar or jello with sugar
around seedlings. Now this idea may have started when people
hear that plants need sugars to grow or that they transport sugars through
their leaves and stems and store sugars in their roots. However using table sugar or products with
table sugars in the garden to help plants grow is pure hogwash, to put it
politely.
Plants make
their own sugars. They do not take up sugar
from the soil through their roots. They
do not absorb it through their leaves. It will not make them grow faster or
taste better. Sugar does not kill pests or stop diseases. It will not “sweeten the soil”- that term
means to make the soil more alkaline, which does not happen from sugar, but
rather from lime, and all soil does not need “sweetening”. You need a soil test to see if your soil is
too acidic or alkaline.
The only
thing putting sugar in the ground or on a plant does is attract pests, from
ants to coons. And in eating that sugar
the pests often damage plants. Sugar can
cause mold and fungal growth if the pests don’t get to it first. It may change the beneficial soil
microorganisms. In short there is no
reason to put sugar in your garden. It’s
as bad for your plants as it is for you.
Get ready- real spring is here
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and a library wants for
nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me. You can also
ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are
welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a
meeting for free. Contact
susanmklaffer@yahoo.com Phone
810-664-8912
New-Lapeer Area
Horticulture Society, Plant and Garden Sale,
May 7, 2016 8 am - 4 pm at Siciliano's, 1900 North Lapeer Road, Lapeer. A variety of plants and garden items from LHS
members will be for sale. Please stop
and shop.
New- A
new way of looking at “invasive plants”. I will be speaking at the Lapeer Horticulture Society
meeting April 18, 6:30 pm, Mayfield Township Hall, Lapeer. I’ll be exploring some of the new research that
suggests we are not thinking about non-native plants correctly. Most non-native
plants are not our enemies or the ecological problem we think they are. Come and listen. If you need directions call the number above
for the Lapeer LAHS secretary.
Companion Planting” Tue, April 19, 6:30-7:30pm, MSUE
Assembly Room, 21885 Dunham Rd # 12, Clinton Township, MI
Mary
Gerstenberger will discuss friend & enemy plants. Sponsored by Macomb
County Master Gardener Association MCMGA meeting to follow- $5.
Heritage Peonies: Beautiful Then,
Glorious Now Fri,
April 22, 9:15am, Meadow Brook Hall,
480 South Adams Road, Rochester MI
A talk
about heritage peonies and how to grow them, featuring guest speaker Dr. David
C. Michener. Sponsored by Meadow Brook Garden Club $5. 248‑364‑6210.
2016 Educational Gardening
Conference, Sat,
April 23, 8 am – 4:15 pm, Oakland Schools Conference Center, 2111 Pontiac Lake
Rd, Waterford Twp, MI
Keynote
Speakers: Karen Bussolini,(Jazzing Up the Garden), Ellen Ecker Ogden, (The Art of Growing Food), Barry
Glick (Woodland Wonders from the Wild). Garden marketplace, entertainment and
more.
Sponsored by
Master Gardener Society of Oakland County, Inc. $80. No registration at the door. Registration brochure at http://www.mgsoc.org/2016_ConferenceRegistrationColor.pdf
Attracting Bees & Maintaining
Beehives, Thu,
April 14, 1pm, Burgess-Shadbush Nature Center Utica, Mi.
The Shelby Garden Club presents bee keepers Mary
Jo Showalter & Joanne Gartner for a quick session on attracting bees and
beginning beekeeping. FREE For more
info call - 586-873-3782..
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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