March 15,
2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim Willis
Hi Gardeners
It’s a dreary day but spring like. The frogs are singing with the birds. I saw a turkey vulture- way early for them. I have seen robins, red winged blackbirds,
killdeer and other migrants. Bees were
on the crocus and mosquitoes were trying to get on me. I have crocus, snowdrops, winter aconite and
volunteer pansies in bloom. The crocus
is about 2 weeks ahead of last year. The
pussy willows around the pond are blooming. I have an article on pussy willows
below. Only 5 days to spring!
One thing I don’t like about spring is the mud, and its
prime mud season this week. Gizmo loves mud, he hits every puddle. I gave him a bath Sunday and he’s already a
dirty mess. A mostly white long haired
pup who loves mud and dirt is not a pretty sight. But mud is better than snow at least.
I couldn’t stand it any longer and went to Campbell’s
greenhouse last week. They didn’t have a
lot of plants out but it was still nice and I did find some to buy. I bought some creeping phlox in colors I didn’t
have and I bought two houseplants, a beautiful bromeliad and a kalanchoe called
Snow Bunny that has fuzzy gray leaves.
This weekend I also succumbed to temptation and bought one
of those cheap little greenhouses that consist of 4 shelves and a vinyl tent
like covering. I am going to set it up
on the deck soon and start some more seeds, maybe a tray of lettuce. I worry about wind the most, I am going to
anchor it to a deck post, and I worry about getting it all filled then having a
deep freeze come along and having to move everything inside. But it should help with acclimating some
plants and starting some perennial seeds.
We are supposed to have thunderstorms tonight and a few more
days of mild weather, then cooler weather returns but days will still be above
freezing. I just wish more sun was in
the forecast. I will miss going without
a coat. But we don’t want too quick of a
warm up, get the fruit trees blooming and then have a hard freeze. Better a slow mild start to spring.
Should we have daylight savings time all year round?
By now you should have realized that we set our clocks ahead
by 1 hour last Sunday. There has been a
lot of discussion lately among researchers and in the media about whether we
should be moving the time back and forth as we do. There is research that points to an increase
in strokes and heart attacks for a few days after a time switch and most people
suffer from tiredness similar to jet lag for a few days until our bodies adjust.
Some are proposing we choose one set of clock to daylight
time match and keep it all year round.
For me, I like more daylight in the evening; others want to wake up to
daylight. I have always been a night
owl, and working night shifts when I was younger didn’t help. If we choose not to go back to “regular” time
this fall we would actually gain more daylight hours between the hours of 7 am
and 7 pm, which are considered peak human activity hours, through the total
year. It’s complicated.
Some people are also proposing universal time, where around
the world everyone’s clocks would read the same time. People would just adjust work hours and
outside hours to when the sun was shining.
For example you might leave for work at 11 pm clock time where you once
called that daylight period 9 am. Now
this would be really hard for some of us old timers to get used to. How did people dream up this time measurement
thing anyway?
Crops from Mars and the moon?
Did you watch the movie the Martian where the abandoned
human planted potatoes to eat? Did you
wonder if that could be done? Well
thanks to a study done last year by the Wageningen University & Research
center in the Netherlands we now know it’s possible. Last year scientists grew 10 different crops
in soil collected from both Mars and the moon.
Pure “dirt” from either place did not sustain crops but when grass
clippings and manure were added crops grew almost as well as a control crop
grown in earth soil.
The crops were grown indoors in an environmentally
controlled situation as they would be if they were grown on Mars or the
moon. One problem emerged and that was
the uptake of heavy metals from the space soils. Researchers are working on ways to control
that and hope to harvest a crop that can be safely eaten this year. The crops grown were tomato, rye, radish,
pea, leek, spinach, garden rocket, cress, quinoa and chives. This year potatoes and beans will be added to
the crop mixture.
Tomato terminology
Last week we defined terms like hybrid and heritage in the
seed starting articles but when it comes to individual crop and or flower
species there are often many other terms in use that can be confusing. Since tomatoes are the number one vegetable
that people grow let’s start with tomato terminology.
Determinate and indeterminate – An indeterminate tomato keeps
growing and setting fruit until frost kills it.
A determinate tomato tends to set and ripen its fruit all at one time. Most garden varieties of tomatoes are
indeterminate but if you can tomatoes you may want to choose a determinate
variety so you have a concentrated harvest.
Determinate tomatoes are shorter and bushier and can be better for container
growing too.
Potato leaf tomato- many species of tomato went into
producing today’s varieties of tomatoes.
Some of those had a leaf shaped more like a potato leaf and some of the
new varieties of tomato retain that shape.
It does not affect the plants growth qualities or taste of the fruit.
Paste tomatoes have thicker “meat” portions of the fruit and
tend to be less juicy. They are usually
cooking tomatoes, used for sauces and paste.
Many are oblong or teardrop shaped.
They are good for eating too. Oxheart tomatoes are larger meaty
tomatoes, usually of European origin.
Cherry, grape, and currant tomatoes are all types of small
tomatoes that grow in clusters. Currant
tomatoes are the smallest, very tiny 1 bite tomatoes.
Salad tomatoes usually refer to smaller smooth round
tomatoes. Beefsteak can be a variety
name or refer to tomatoes which are very large often with an oblong, flattened
shape.
Tomatoes come in a variety of shapes, depending on variety. Some are smooth and round; others have ridges
or what appear to be segments joined together.
There are also hollow tomatoes, which look like a pepper inside. There are pear shaped tomatoes and very
flattened oval shaped tomatoes.
Tomatoes also come in many colors, even though red remains
the favorite. Colors can be white,
yellow, pink, orange, green, purple, brown, and striped. Tomatoes also vary in taste, a tomato ripened
in the sun always tastes better than one ripened in the store but the taste of
tomatoes can range from sweet, non-acidic to very acidic and “robust”. Taste is subjective and growing conditions
can affect how a tomato tastes also.
Heirloom tomatoes don’t always taste better than modern hybrids, try
many varieties of tomatoes to see what you like.
The letters behind the variety name of some tomatoes
indicates they have resistance (not immunity) to certain diseases. Not all tomatoes will have these
letters. V=verticillium wilt, F =
fusarium wilt- there can be 3 F’s indicating the 3 strains of fusarium wilt
that infect tomatoes, N=nematodes, T = tobacco mosaic virus, A = alternaria
stem canker, St= stemphylium gray leaf spot, TSWV=tomato spotted wilt virus. There are a few tomatoes that are resistant
to late or early blight. If so that
information is generally provided in the description. If you have lots of disease problems look for
the varieties with the most letters after their name.
Indigo series tomatoes are a strain of tomatoes developed to
have more anthocyanin, the blue pigment that is supposed to be so healthy for
us. Indigo tomatoes are a deep purple
almost black with red highlights. There
are several varieties and sizes. These
are a bit different from older varieties of “black” or chocolate tomatoes. They were developed with conventional
breeding and are not GMO.
Grafted tomatoes are becoming popular. These combine a disease resistant, hardy root
stock (bottom portion) with a fruiting or top portion that may lack those
traits. Many times a heritage tomato is
the top part. One note on grafted
tomatoes, don’t buy a tomato grafted on a potato unless you just want a
novelty. Despite the promises of both a
tomato and potato crop, in reality neither crop grows well like this.
When choosing your tomato varieties you may want to look
into what part of the country the variety is said to do best in. Some perform better in the north, others have
a very long maturation rate and do better in the south. Check the tag or
description for days to maturity. In
tomatoes that starts when you transplant them into the garden. You should see
such information offered in the catalog or tag description. Early varieties
ripen in 55-70 days, medium varieties 70-90 days and late varieties more than
90 days. Many modern hybrids are bred to
do well all over the country, whereas many heirlooms tend to do better in specific
areas where they originated.
I suggest asking other gardeners in your area what tomatoes
grow well for them. Grow several
varieties and keep records on whether you liked the taste of each and how each
produced for you. Each year try something
new, but make sure to plant some of your tried and true favorites. I always
have Early Girl and Better Boy in my garden.
I like to add Kellogg’s Breakfast, a orange-yellow fruited tomato when I
can find it. Other tomatoes that have
done well for me include Goliath, Big Beef, Bonnie Best, Rutgers and Delicious. Yellow pear does way too well and I no longer
grow it. If you do you will probably
have them returning for several years.
Pussy willows
Did you know that pussy willows were once used in place of
palm branches on Palm Sunday? In Europe
and North America “pussy willows” are usually out around Palm Sunday. Pussy
willows are also important plants to the Chinese around Chinese New Year, where they signify coming prosperity. The
plant called pussy willow is actually several species of willow around the
world. They are only called pussy willow
when the gray pussies are present.
 |
| Pussy Willow - credit wikimedia commons |
The soft gray “pussies” we usually look for are actually the
male flowers, called catkins, which open in early spring before the leaves
appear. When the pollen is ready to be
shed the gray pussies turn yellow.
Female flowers are produced separately on pussy willows, they too look
gray and hairy, but they are smaller, not as prominent and produced later. They don’t turn yellow. The gray hairs help
trap heat and keep the plant reproductive parts warm.
The native North American willow called pussy willow (Salix discolor), is usually a bushy
shrub that grows in wet areas, but you don’t have to go out searching for them
in a ditch full of cold water- you can grow pussy willow in almost any
garden. The pussy willow is often used
in spring floral arrangements, both dried and fresh and is loved by
children.
Some varieties
The native North American shrub willows all produce furry
catkins to some extent, but for impressive large catkins plant French Pussy
Willow, Salix caprea. Pussy willow flowers also come in black, Salix melanostachys , and pink, Salix chaenomeloides , ‘Mt. Also’. Salix
apoda from Eurasia has a ground-hugging habit with showy large catkins of
orange and pink in early spring. Garden
catalogs may have other varieties of “pussy willow”.
There is a wonderful small Weeping Pussy Willow tree, Salix caprea ‘Pendula‘, that has huge, furry gray catkins
cascading down it’s stems in the early spring. After the catkins are gone, its
graceful weeping form still creates interest.
It makes an excellent specimen plant or the focal point of a perennial
bed.
Planting and Care
Willows are, for the most part, one of the easiest of woody
ornamentals to grow. Plant your pussy
willow in full sun for best results, although they will tolerate some
shade. Keep young plants well-watered
until they are established, but after that they will do just fine in average
garden conditions. Of course if you have a wet area in your landscape, pussy
willows may be the perfect plant to use in that location. Fertilizer is rarely needed for willows. Do not plant pussy willows, or any other
willow, too close to septic fields or water lines. Their roots will go a long way in search of
water and when they find it they invade- often clogging pipes and septic
fields.
In the garden you will want to keep the pussy willow shrub
pruned to a compact, manageable shape. You can prune them after the catkins
have dropped, taking out about 1/3 of the older stems each year and cutting the
whole plant back to the height you want it to remain. Pussy willows spread quickly through suckers
coming up from the root system, so you will want to control the spread before
they take over the garden.
You can have early pussy willows in the house by cutting
branches in the early spring, just as the buds begin to swell, and putting them
in water inside the house. Left in water
after the catkins have dropped, some of these cuttings may actually root. You can even take pussy willow branches out
of floral displays and root them in potting soil or damp sand.
If you see an impressive pussy willow ask for a cutting of
it and you may be able to start your own plant.
The best cuttings come from the ends of young branches and are about as
big as a pencil. They should be about
6-12 inches long. Early spring is the
best time to try this, but willows root so readily that it doesn’t hurt to try
it at other times. Insert your cutting
in damp sand or potting soil and cover the container with a plastic bag to
raise the humidity. Keep the cutting in
a well-lighted area, but out of direct sun.
If you see new growth, your pussy willow has rooted.
Willows have so much of the plant hormones that promote
rooting that they can be used to help root other plants. Pinch off the buds and ends of small,
actively growing willow stems and crush them or chop them coarsely. Put a couple cups of willow pieces in a
gallon of warm water and let it steep in the sun as you would do with sun
tea. Then dip the ends of cuttings you
want to grow in the solution before inserting the cutting in potting medium in
a container. Use the remaining mix to
water the containers as they become dry.
To dry pussy willow catkins for floral arrangements you can
just cut them when they have expanded to the size you prefer, and place them in
a jar without water in a dark, cool area.
Or you can place them in any mixture used for drying other flowers, such
as silica or borax. If you use fresh cut
pussy willows in arrangements you’ll probably want to discard them when they
turn yellow and begin to shed pollen.
Shamrocks- St Patrick's Day is Thursday
If it’s shamrocks that you are thinking about here are two
of my previous articles you may want to read.
Growing hyacinths for a sweet smelling spring
Hyacinths are being overlooked by modern gardeners, maybe
because they have a formal look about them and modern gardens seem to tend
toward informal. But hyacinths can find
a place in any garden and they are well worth planting. The lovely smell alone, a smell that says
spring is here, makes them worthy of a spot in your flower beds.
Hyacinths now come in many colors and several forms. They can be tucked into rock gardens, planted
in swirling masses in the border, planted in large containers, or lined up in
formal rows and blocks along a path.
They can even be forced to bloom inside.
Hyacinths are native to the eastern Mediterranean and
Southeast Asia. The species commonly
found in cultivation is Hyacinthus
orientalis and originates in SE Asia.
Another species of plant with the common name of grape hyacinth belongs
to the genus Muscari and there are several species of Muscari in
cultivation. Muscari have smaller leaves
and flowers than the garden hyacinth and are often used in naturalized areas. In this article the common garden hyacinth, Hyacinthus orientalis, and the care of
them in a garden setting, will be
discussed.
Hyacinths have been in cultivation a long time, they were
grown by the Greeks and Romans in their gardens. In early European gardens hyacinths were very
popular, at one point there were over 2000 varieties being sold in the Dutch
bulb markets. Today there are still a hundred or so named varieties being sold. They are considered to be – as many spring
blooming plants are- a symbol of re-birth and renewal and are popular Easter
plants.
Hyacinths begin growth in spring with 4-6 green strap-like
leaves. The flower stalk will emerge soon after from the center of the
plant. The leaves will yellow and die
about a month after flowering and the plant will go into dormancy until the
next spring.
Hyacinths bloom in spring, from mid to late spring,
depending on variety. In zones 5-6
that’s generally mid-April to mid-May.
The flowers are composed of 6 petals fused together to form a tube that
flares open at the end, but there are many garden varieties with doubled
flowers. They are crowded together on a
spike about 8 inches long in the center of the plant. Most hyacinths have a strong, pleasing
fragrance.
Flower color ranges from the beautiful blues associated with
the name hyacinth to purple, red, orange, pink, white and yellow. Hyacinths are a wonderful way to bring
vibrant color, especially blues, to the flower border.
Care and planting of hyacinths
Hyacinths are generally purchased as bulbs, which are
planted in the fall. Look for large, plump, firm bulbs. Plant the bulbs in full sun in a well-drained
location. Bulbs can be planted under
trees that leaf out slowly in the spring, as they will get enough sun before
going dormant. Bulbs may do all right for a year or two in partial shade, but
won’t last as long or multiply a well as those in sunnier locations.
Hyacinth bulbs are poisonous so they should be kept away
from children and pets. Hyacinths are
seldom touched by mice, rabbits or deer, both bulbs and flowers. Some gardeners
may experience skin irritation when the bulbs are handled so using gloves is
advised at planting time.
The hyacinth bulbs color can give you an idea of the flower
color, with purplish bulbs producing blue or purple flowers, reddish bulbs
producing pink or red flowers, yellow bulbs yellow or white flowers. Plant the bulbs with the pointed side up and
about twice as deep as the bulb is long.
Hyacinths look best when planted in groups; you can plant them as close
as 6 inches. They will last for several
years in the garden and bulbs will slowly multiply.
Do not add bone meal to the holes when planting nor put
fertilizer in the bottom of holes. You
can mix some slow release fertilizer in the soil as you refill in around the
bulbs. If fall is very dry a watering
will help get the bulbs producing a root system, but fall watering is seldom
needed.
 |
| Hyacinths credit en.wikipedia.org |
In spring when bulbs begin emerging a slow release
fertilizer for flowers can be used around the plants. This can help make bigger flowers the next
year and help the bulbs multiply. In
zones 5-6 watering usually isn’t needed in spring but if it gets dry, water the
plants.
Let the bulbs foliage die down naturally, as it is producing
food for the bulb to make next year’s flowers.
Planting hyacinths among plants like daylilies, ferns, hosta and other
perennials can hide the dying foliage.
When the leaves are limp and yellow they can be removed.
If you have forced some hyacinth bulbs to bloom inside or
have bulbs grown in pots for Easter decorations you can plant these bulbs in
the ground after they finish blooming but not all the bulbs handled this way
will survive. Bulbs grown in soil do
better than those forced in water. If they
survive they may bloom again the next spring.
Plant plenty of hyacinths in the garden so you can cut some
for bouquets and bring the lovely smell inside.
Every gardener should grow some hyacinths even if they are just a patch
by the back door, so that you can truly smell spring.
Listen for thunder tonight- its a sound of spring
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and a library wants for
nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me. You can also
ask me to post garden related events. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. (Monday, March 21, meet at
Campbell’s Greenhouse, North Branch, for a tour.) No
educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome.
Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for
free. Contact Julie Schröder, LAHS Secretary, 810-728-2269 - Julie.Schroder@brose.com
New- Fine-Pruning
the Landscape: Spring Cuts-
Fri, March 25, 9:15am, Meadow Brook Hall, 480 S Adams Rd, Rochester, MI
Janet
Macunovich will be giving pruning tips for trees and shrubs. Cost $5. Sponsored by Meadow Brook GC For more info
-248‑364‑6210, MBHGCMembers@gmail.com.
New- African
Violet Display & Sale Sat, April 2,
10am-4pm Matthaei Botanical Gardens, 1800 N Dixboro Rd, Ann Arbor, MI
Sponsored
by MSU AV Society at Matthaei Gardens. There will be a FREE workshop at 10:30
am on growing violets, streptocarpus & other gesneriads. For more info LynnAllen0413@comcast.net.
“Spring Ephemerals” Mon, March 21, 6:30-7:30 pm Mt
Clemens Library, Mount Clemens, MI,
Cheryl
English presents Native Wildflowers for the Woodland Garden. $10. More info call 586-954-9998.
Basic Vegetable Gardening- Two free seminars- Tue, March 22, 6:30
-8 pm, MSU Extension,-21885 Dunham Rd, Charter Twp. of Clinton, MI OR Wed, March 23, 1-2:30pm, Thompson
Community Ctr, 11370 Hupp Ave, Warren, MI
This
program covers everything from planning to planting. To register for either
session call 586-469-6440.
MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring
Program: The Garden Professors
April 9, 2016, 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue
Street East Lansing, MI
Looking to
bust through gardening myths and dig down to the truth? Join the creators of
The Garden Professors, a blog where expert professors from around the country
use science-based information to provide you with the facts about gardening
from every aspect. We will host two of these professors and they will be joined
by organic farming expert, Adam Montri. Attendees will have the opportunity to
submit questions in advance, many of which will be answered by these experts
during a final Q & A session! Early registration (on or before March 31)
for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $70, Early registration (on or before March
31) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $80 Registrations received after
March 31 $90
Contact:
Jennifer Sweet at 517-353-0443 or hgardens@msu.edu
Great Lakes Hosta College, March
18-19, 2016, Upper Valley Career Center in Piqua, Ohio.
Students
attend 5 classes they have chosen from a program of over 70 classes taught by a
faculty of approximately 50 volunteers. Mid-day each student has lunch from a
delicious buffet included in the registration fee. At the end of the day
students take a brief break and then return for a banquet and talk that
concludes the Hosta College experience.
The vending
area offers a large selection of plants (even though it may be snowing
outside!), garden accessories, tools, and other garden-related merchandise for
shoppers. The Bookstore features gardening books at fantastic discounts,
stationery, society clothing items, and other Hosta College souvenirs. Persons
who belong to one of the local societies with membership in the Great Lakes
Region receive preferential registration and a reduced registration fee. $42 registration fee for members, $55 registration
fee for non-members.
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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