February,
16, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter
© Kim Willis
Hi Gardeners
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| Mimulus |
I am glad we are finally climbing out of the deep freeze
again. We ended up with 10 inches of snow
last week. It was a nice protection for
the plants during the bitter cold but I will be glad when it’s gone again. Gizmo chose one of the snowiest and coldest
days to learn how to go through the dog door.
He is delighting in going in and out on his own but it has caused some
problems. Sunday he got burrs in his
coat, he found them somewhere in the yard and I spent a lot of time getting
them out of his long coat.
A few minutes ago he came in and wanted on my lap. I picked him up to find his belly and leg
hair coated with snowballs. He’s cold
and wet now and so am I. I guess the
slightly warmer weather got him sloshing into the deeper stuff, rather than
staying on the beaten path. He is going
outside to potty all on his own, which is great, but I am dreading when it
rains and the snow turns to mud.
I sat Sunday and watched my bird feeders so I could
participate in the Great Backyard Bird count.
It was a cold and windy day and my windows were a little frosted but I
recorded 16 species of birds at the 3 feeders.
Over a 100 countries participate in the bird count, the US recorded 647
species with 112, 580 people participating.
Michigan recorded 127 species with 4,483 people participating.
Cornell University correlates the data. The tallies for each
species haven’t been announced yet but Cornell has noted that there were many species
observed for the first time in the US, mostly in the south, that have moved
north. One new species however, counted
in Canada, was thought to have migrated from Iceland. 141 American robins were recorded in one area
of Saginaw near some fruit bearing trees.
Two Golden, not bald eagles were seen in Jackson- pictures were shown.
So far the observations haven’t shown an unusual number of
early migrants back north, despite the milder weather. I think 141 robins should count but they don’t
think so. Nor has there been a lot of
sightings of snow owls and other birds that come down out of the artic in some
winters. You can see the data and lots
of interesting things at http://gbbc.birdcount.org/
I am hoping that the warm weather predicted for the weekend
continues and spring arrives on schedule.
My seeds are arriving and the plants I ordered should be next. Only 30 days to go!
Watering houseplants correctly
Michigan winters just cry out for homes and offices to be
filled with the restful, cheerful green of houseplants. But some people just can’t seem to keep
houseplants thriving in the home or office and a great many houseplant problems
can be traced to improper watering. Learning to water your houseplants
correctly can turn brown thumbs into green ones.
First- don’t water on a schedule. Don’t say that every Wednesday you will water
the plants. You might schedule a day to
check the plants to see if they need water but don’t just automatically go
around and water each pot. Some plants
won’t need water on the same day each week, and some may need it more often to
remain healthy.
Plants may need less water in the winter when temperatures
are cooler, the light is less and plants slow down their growth. But they may
also need more water if the humidity is low and the plants are sitting close to
hot air vents. When warm weather arrives
and the light is strong and growth vigorous, they will need additional water. Plants
in plastic or metal pots usually need less water than those in porous clay or
ceramic pots.
Symptoms of watering problems
The symptoms of over watering and under watering are often
the same – wilting. Wilting can happen
because the soil is dry and the top parts of the plant don’t get enough
water. Or it can mean that the soil in
the pot is saturated with water, the plants roots have rotted, and the top of
the plant isn’t getting any water through those rotted roots. Feel the soil to
see if it feels dry. Don’t just touch
the top- push your finger in the soil about an inch- or more for deep pots. If
you touch the soil and it feels very wet, then the pot needs draining and
drying, not more water, even if the plant is wilted.
Don’t let the plant wilt on a regular basis just so you know
when it needs water. Some plants recover
pretty well each time but it takes its toll on the plant and disease and insect
resistance will be reduced. Good indoor gardeners learn the subtle differences
in their plants that mean they are just starting to dry out, droopier stems,
slightly rolled leaves, undersides of leaves showing, little things that a good
caretaker picks up on and tends to before the plant really wilts.
Some other signs that the plant is suffering from chronic
dry soil other than wilting include yellowing and dropping leaves, dry leaf
tips and poor flowering. And remember that each species of plant has a
different requirement for water. Some
like to dry out between watering or even prefer to remain on the dry side
If you don’t trust your sense of touch to let you know if a
plant needs water, there are many inexpensive tools on the market that will
tell you if the soil is too dry. There
are meters, little ceramic creatures you stick in pots that change colors and
other items to help you learn when to water.
Overwatering
The symptoms of overwatering can look almost the same as
under watering. The plant may wilt, turn
brown or yellow, or appear mushy. If you notice a swampy smell from your flower
pots you are probably keeping them too wet. It’s always a good idea to check
the saucers under flower pots an hour or so after watering. If they still have water in them, empty
them.
Overwatering will kill most species of plants faster than
under watering. Plants need air in the soil as well as water for roots to
survive. Make sure to check the soil to see if it feels wet before watering. Cacti,
succulents, and some other plants need to dry out between watering. Check a reference book for the watering needs
of each plant species.
If you think a plant is too wet, make sure the pot is
draining well and any saucer with water gets emptied. Let the potting medium get dry before
watering again. If the soil smells
really swampy and has algae growth on top you may want to re-pot the plant in
new potting soil that is only slightly moistened. If the roots have rotted away
the plant may be able to be saved by rooting cuttings of it.
What water to use
If a plant needs water use room temperature water. Rain water and distilled water are probably best
for houseplants but either city water or well water can be used and for most
plants won’t be a problem. Both softened
water and “hard” well water have mineral salts in them that can build up in the
planting soil. If your well water is very salty or high in mineral content it
may harm some sensitive plants. If you
use a water softener try to get well water for your plants before it goes
through the softener.
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| Crassula |
Chlorinated city water should sit for 24 hours before being
used on plants; it allows some of the chlorine to dissipate into the air. However, other chemicals will remain. Some plants are sensitive to chemicals like fluoride
which are added to city water supplies.
Should you use bottled drinking water on your plants? Maybe.
Recent studies have shown that for some reason, several popular brands
of bottled drinking water are very acidic.
For some plants this could be a problem.
You may want to buy some simple pH test strips to test the bottled water
you want to use. A pH value of 7 is neutral
and good for most plants. Below a value
of 7 the water is acidic and above it alkaline.
Some plants like acidic conditions and for them a pH value of 5.5 to 7
would be ok. For most plants a pH of 6.5
would be ok but avoid lower values.
Water would be too alkaline for some plants at a value of 8 or higher.
The bottom line is that you may want to use rain water or
distilled water on valuable houseplants.
Well water may be the next best choice, especially if it hasn’t been
softened and isn’t too salty or very high in minerals.
Watering techniques
Some people get frustrated when they water a plant and the water seems
to go right through the pot and out into the saucer. When
a plant is allowed to get very dry, the planting medium may shrink away from
the sides of the pot. This creates a
small gap between the soil and the pot and when you water the water goes right
through the pot without soaking the soil.
If you notice water pouring out the drainage holes as soon
as you pour water on the plant it may have gotten too dry. To fix this place the pot in a larger
container of water and let it soak or put it in the tub and let water drip on
it for a couple of hours. The soil should saturate and expand. Make sure the
pot drains well after a couple of hours.
Then try not to let the pot get that dry again.
Another reason that plants may seem too dry even if you
water them frequently and see water draining into the saucer is that the roots
have become too crowded. Soaking the pot
as above may help, but you may have to re-pot the plant in a slightly bigger
pot with new soil. Slide the plant out
of the pot. If the root system is one huge mass with little soil showing and
there is a layer of coiled plant roots on the bottom the plant needs more room.
Most plants can be watered by pouring water directly on the
soil surface. Avoid getting water on the
foliage, especially hairy foliage. Some
plants do better when watered from the bottom.
Some bromeliads and succulent plants need to have water poured into the
cup shaped bases they have. Staghorn
ferns, some orchids and tillandsias don’t like water poured into their pots but
need to be briefly submerged in water or heavily misted with water. Read the care directions you get when you buy
a plant or look up your plants needs to see if a special watering technique is
needed.
Reducing salt build up
Both hard and soft water have chemical salts that get into
the potting soil when we water plants.
Fertilizers also contain chemical salts.
Outdoors excess salts usually move through the soil and out of the range
of plant roots, but in a pot they have nowhere to go. They end up burning the plants roots and
stunting its growth or even killing it.
Signs of excess salt damage include stunted growth,
sometimes reddish or yellow discoloration of foliage, dry, browned leaf tips
and loss of lower leaves and wilting from burned root tips. Often a whitish- yellow crusty build up on
top of the soil or even on the outside of the pot will be noticed.
To keep salts from building up use distilled water or
rainwater to water plants if possible.
If not, water the plants and then empty the saucers that collect the
excess water after an hour or so. Salt
that is washed through the pot when you water won’t then be absorbed back into
the pot as the soil dries out again.
This is usually not enough to totally stop salt build up, especially if
you regularly fertilize your houseplants.
Every few months pots watered with soft city water or hard
well water should be leached. The pot
needs to be placed in tub or sink and flooded with water continuously for a
couple hours. Let the water run slowly
through the pot so soil doesn’t get washed away too. In some cases of heavy
salt build up it may be better to repot the plant with fresh potting soil.
The importance of the right pot
The type of pot that you use for houseplants is crucial to
their health. It must have good
drainage. Do not use a pot without
drainage holes even if you add gravel or broken pot pieces to the bottom. After a while soil washes between the pieces
and the small reservoir you created is lost.
If you have problems with too much soil washing out of a pot through the
drainage holes place a coffee filter inside the bottom of the pot.
If you have a pretty pot without drain holes either make
drainage holes in it or put the plant in a pot with drainage and then slip it
inside the pretty one. Something should be placed in the bottom of the outer
pot as a spacer, so the inner pot sits a little above the bottom of the outer
pot. Make sure to empty water that
collects in the outer pot after watering.
Pots should neither be too small or large for the
plant. Large pots are hard to water
correctly, the water moves down out of the reach of the plants roots or the top
layer remains dry and the bottom is saturated and damaging plant roots. Pots that are too small and are filled with
roots will need watering much more often than people realize and may be
impossible to keep them watered as often as they need it. They will need to be re-potted.
Unpainted clay pots allow water to evaporate through the
sides of pots as well as draining from the bottom. If you have a habit of overwatering clay pots
may help. Clay pots are also good for
cacti and succulents that like drier soil.
Otherwise the material of the pot is not as important as the drainage it
has.
There are now many pots on the market that are labeled
self-watering. They have a reservoir you
put water in and a wicking system that delivers water to the plants as the soil
dries. These are good for people who have plants in school rooms and offices
that have long vacation periods or people who travel a lot. But for those pots to work the reservoir has
to be checked often. If it doesn’t have
water, the plant won’t. There is a tendency
for people with this type of pot to forget about checking them for longer than
they planned or to not realize that changing environmental conditions have
changed the plants water needs.
Properly watering your houseplants will result in beautiful
lush plants you will be proud to display.
Nutrition notes
A new study from the University of Eastern Finland published
in the American Journal of Clinical
Nutrition confirms many other studies in finding that eating eggs does
not raise blood cholesterol. Eating eggs
provides a perfect protein combination and provides many necessary nutrients.
Beet juice has been used by athletes to increase blood
oxygen capacity and boost performance.
Now a study done by Wake Forest Baptist Medical Center and published in the
Journal of the American College of
Cardiology-Heart Failure finds that beet juice helps heart failure
symptoms. Beet juice given daily to elderly patients with heart failure in
doses as low as about 2 ounces improved their exercise tolerance, breathing
comfort and lowered blood pressure.
Barley can lower blood glucose levels and help prevent
metabolic syndrome diabetes, and cardiovascular disease according to a study
done by Lund University in Sweden. It also helps people lose weight by
reducing appetite and increasing metabolic rates. The fiber in barley reacts with gut bacteria
to regulate insulin levels, stimulate the body to produce helpful hormones and
reduce inflammation in the cardiovascular system.
People with a higher level of a certain gut bacteria called Prevotella copri bacteria had better
results when they ate barley daily but over time the consumption of barley
increases the amount of that helpful bacteria in the gut and also increases the
benefits of barley.
The study found that the benefits of barley on the
metabolism were measurable after only 3 days of barley consumption in most
patients. Barley can be consumed by
adding it to soups, stews, salads, or making baked goods with it. Barley tastes pretty good so that shouldn’t
be a hard dietary addition.
An Australian grass can make better condoms
This should have been in the Valentine’s Day edition but here’s
the scoop anyway. Australian aborigines
have long made a resin from a native spinifex
grass that they used to attach arrow points to shafts. Recently researchers found that resin can
produce “nanocellulose” fibers with great strength and flexibility.
The nanocellulose product was sent to an American condom
manufacturer and it was found that when it was added to latex a condom as thin
as a hair, (their description), could be made that still met the standards of
condom safety and reliability. They said
the product could also be used to make thinner latex gloves.
Cows need oregano to reduce methane gas
Oregano is great stuff; both bees and people love it. Cows can eat it too, and when they do it
reduces the amount of methane gas they produce when they belch. Cow belches are supposed to be one of the
large factors in greenhouse gases raising the global temperature. Their gut bacteria produce methane gas when
they ruminate, (pre-digest) feed which cows release by belching.
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| Oregano |
Some dairy/ beef producers feed nitrate supplements or
special fats to cattle to reduce methane emissions but organic dairy or beef
production cannot use those. A study in
Denmark found that feeding cows oregano reduced methane emissions by at least
25%. Cows don’t mind eating it and it
can be grown with other forage or hay crops.
Studies are now being done to determine whether feeding hay or silage
would be best and whether special pasture/hay cultivars of oregano with high
essential oil levels can be developed.
Plants that don’t like other plants- Allelopathy
Allelopathy is the name for what happens when one plant
releases chemicals that affects the growth of another plant. In theory this could be either a harmful or
beneficial effect, but in practice, when you hear people talking about
allelopathy, they are generally referring to harmful effects. This article is about plants which can have
negative effects on other plants that we have in the landscape or grow for
food.
There are many chemicals manufactured by plants for
their defense. They may keep animals
from eating them or the chemicals may be used to prevent competition from other
plants. These competition restraining
chemicals work in many ways, some prevent germination of seeds, some effect
growth of established plants, some change the soil pH, some may inhibit the
Mycorrhizal fungi that grow on plant roots and help the plant obtain water and
nutrients from the soil. Most allopathic
chemicals don’t affect all species of plants, although some plants have very
strong allopathic properties that affect many species. A plant’s chemical secretions can also affect
members of its own species, preventing new seedlings from germinating too close
to the original plant.
Plants release chemicals from their roots and leaf
tissues into the air and soil in gaseous and liquid discharges, and when
microbes decompose their remains. The
release or manufacture of some of those chemicals depends on environmental
conditions, such as heat, exposure to UV rays, availability of soil nutrients,
water, and whether plants are under stress from predators. Some chemicals may only be manufactured and
released at certain growth stages of the plants or in certain seasons. Most allopathic chemicals can linger in the
environment for at least a year after the plant is gone.
The protective chemicals that plants secrete are often
ones that humans use in herbal medications.
What’s bad for other plants is sometimes good for us. But sometimes allopathic chemicals can harm
animals and humans too. Researchers are also studying allopathic chemicals that
plants release to produce organic weed controls and possibly insecticides. But the study of allelopathy and the ability
to isolate and identify specific allopathic chemicals is a fairly recent one
and much more research on the subject needs to be done.
Our ancestors however, had knowledge of what plants
could help or hinder other plants growth and they often utilized them. Native Americans planted squash around their
corn and beans because the squash helped suppress weeds, both by blocking
sunlight and as we now know by producing allopathic chemicals that inhibited
weed germination and growth. Both corn
and beans are not affected by the squash chemicals. Sunflowers were also planted among other
crops and they too, have allopathic properties.
Early farmers soon learned about rotating crops, some crops leave allopathic
chemicals in the soil and the same crop will not grow well there the following
season. (Crops are also rotated because insect and disease can build up in soil
and some crops use more of certain minerals in the soil.) Farmers also planted cover crops like rye
between crops, because rye has chemicals which suppress many weed seeds from
germinating.
Allelopathy is often cited by those who want to remove
non-native plants from the environment.
Some plants new to an environment do inhibit the growth of plants
already present in the environment, sometimes to what seems to be an alarming
rate. But as recent research is finding
out, the allopathic properties of the invasive plants usually fade over
time. The soil microbes and other plants
develop immunity to the chemicals, and the alien plants adjust their chemical
manufacturing from all-out assault status to maintenance as they adjust to the
environment.
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| Sunflowers have allopathic properties. |
You as a gardener should be aware of what plants in the
landscape and in food growing gardens have allopathic properties so you can
give your plants the best environment possible.
Gardeners should also remember that allopathic chemicals can be found in
mulches, compost, and plant residue left from the previous season. These chemicals can affect plants for a year
and sometimes longer. In general not all
plant species will be affected by chemicals from a certain plant. And some plant species do not have known
allopathic properties.
Trees
in the landscape with allopathic properties
The black walnut is the most famous of allopathic
trees. Black walnuts release a chemical
called juglone, which inhibits the growth of many species of plants. This chemical is released from the roots,
from decaying leaves, twigs and nut husks, from wood or bark chipped for mulch,
and even when rain falls on the tree canopy.
Since the root system of trees can extend 3 or more times the width of
the tree canopy, black walnuts can affect plants a good distance away from
them. Plants in the nightshade family,
such as tomatoes, peppers and potatoes are greatly affected by juglone. Their seeds won’t germinate well in soil with
juglone, and plants transplanted into soil contaminated with juglone will start
to grow, then quickly yellow and die as they enter maturity.
Other plants affected by juglone include: apple,
azalea, birch, blackberry, blueberry, chrysanthemum, colchicum, forget-me-not,
grapes, lily-of-the-valley, linden, mountain laurel, peony, pines,
rhododendron, and thyme. Some other
cultivated plants may also be affected.
Horse owners will also want to keep black walnut trees out of pastures
as the leaves and nuts can make horses founder.
Black walnut nut husks are poisonous to dogs if they are consumed.
Other trees that affect the growth of some other plants include; Ailanthus Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus
altissima), balsam popular, black cherry, box elder, hackberry, juniper, oaks, red maple, sassafras, sugar maple, and sycamore (planetree). The effect of these trees is most often seen
on other trees, but they also inhibit some grasses and weeds from growing near
them. Silver maples and honey locust
both inhibit the growth of Kentucky bluegrass.
Shrubs and other woodies that have allopathic chemicals
include bearberry, elderberry, forsythia intermedia, mountain laurel (Kalmia
angustifolia), rhododendron, and sumac.
Pines and spruces and particularly Douglas firs are inhibited by many of
these shrubs. Interestingly since these
are both common in the landscape, Kentucky bluegrass and forsythia inhibit each
other’s growth.
Grasses
and other plants
Grasses that be a problem for some plants include;
Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrass, perennial rye, foxtail, tall and red fescue, and
most of these are common in lawns.
Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue affect azaleas, barberry, forsythia,
flowering dogwood, and yews. Bentgrass
can affect azalea, barberry, yew, and forsythia. Perennial rye affects apple, forsythia, and
flowering dogwood. Tall fescue can
inhibit black walnut growth, which might be a good thing in some places.
 |
| Lantana may inhibit the growth of other plants. |
Other garden plants that have allopathic chemicals
include most ferns, asters, goldenrod, fennel, lantana, and sunflowers. The bare spot under the bird feeder where
sunflower husks pile up is due to both the mulch effect and allopathic
chemicals. Sunflower roots also inhibit
many plant species and should be used cautiously in mixed borders.
Ferns often inhibit broad leaved plants but monocots,(grasses
and things like lilies) are often not affected. Be cautious using lantana in
containers because many plants do not grow well with it. Goldenrod and perennial asters also suppress
the growth of other plants. Fennels are
being used as ornamental plants now but be aware that many plants do not grow
well near fennel. Geraniums should not
be combined with ornamental peppers or eggplants as they inhibit the growth of
those plants.
In the vegetable garden plants in the cabbage family –
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and so on inhibit each other’s growth and
should not be planted following each other and kept separated in the
garden. Cabbage family members also
stunt strawberry plants. Mustard grown
for greens can inhibit the growth of many other plants. Never plant potatoes near sunflowers. In fact sunflowers should probably be grown
in a patch of their own and not mixed with vegetables as they inhibit many
plants.
As mentioned earlier squash- and pumpkins can affect
other plants. They should not be planted
near potatoes, peppers, or tomatoes. Garlic and onions will affect the growth
of beans and peas. Dill will stunt the
growth of tomatoes. Dill should also be
kept away from carrots. Cucumbers may be
affected by sage and other mint family members.
Mint family members and onions should not be grown near asparagus. Fennel should be separated from all other
plants as it is highly allopathic.
When growing food crops you should always rotate crop
families from year to year. Many food
crops produce allopathic chemicals that linger in the soil that affect the same
crop next year even if debris is completely removed and similar plants also use
soil nutrients in the same way, causing deficiencies if the same crop
follows. See the list of
incompatibilities above and avoid planting those crops after an incompatible crop
when rotating crops.
Weeds often have allopathic chemicals and that’s why
they are so successful. It goes without
saying that weeds should be removed from food and flower beds.
 |
| Goldenrod is allopathic. |
As mentioned the science of allelopathy is still new. Some effects we suspect may be due to allelopathy
because of observation may eventually be found to be caused by other
things. If you would like to read more
about allelopathy here are some links.
Some of these references were used to prepare this article.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs186 Includes table of allelopathic interactions
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/landscaping/implement/trees_turf.html another table of allelopathic interactions
http://www.dmu.dk/1_viden/2_publikationer/3_fagrapporter/rapporter/fr315.pdf Comprehensive review of allelopathy from
Denmark.
http://www.jes2s.com/pdfs/qin_article.pdf Results of an experiment of juglone from
black walnuts on seed germination.
\
Hoping for sun tomorrow, we need
sun!
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and a library wants for
nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.
Free seeds
I have
these seeds that I collected from my garden that I am willing to share
free. Look at the list and if you would
like some contact me at kimwillis151@gmail.com
I will tell
you where to send a stamped self-addressed envelope for the seeds. If you want
popcorn or black walnuts it will take several stamps. I have published this list on the seed swap
sites also. I’ll try to give everyone
who asks some until they are gone.
Lilies, a
seed mixture of assorted hybrids, oriental- Asiatic- trumpet- Casa Blanca,
Stargazer, La Reve, purple tree, yellow tree, Silk Road, more
Anise
hyssop
Morning
glory – common purple
Scarlet
runner bean - few
Japanese
hull-less popcorn
Hosta
asst.of seed from numerous varieties- lots
Ligularia
desmonda (daisy–like flower)
Ligularia
rocket – spires of flowers
Yucca
Glad mixed
Zinnia
mixed
Foxglove
Dalmation peach
Calendula
mixed
Baptisia
blue
Jewelweed
Cleome
white
Columbine
mixed- small amount
Nicotiana
small bedding type- mixed colors
Nicotiana
sylvestris (woodland tobacco, Only the Lonely)
Daylily
mixed
Kangaroo
Paws orange
Hollyhock
mixed
Black
walnut- few hulled nuts
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
Invitation
If you are a gardener
in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural
Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various
places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow
gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are
welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a
meeting for free. Contact Julie Schröder, LAHS Secretary, 810-728-2269 - Julie.Schroder@brose.com
Dow Gardens, 2016 Know & Grow
Seminar Saturday,
February 20, 2016 - 8:15 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Bullock Creek High School, 1420 South
Badour Road, Midland; MI
Speakers-
Paul Epsom “My E Garden, (Five E's)” & "Winter Elements", Marta
McDowell “Curves, Carpets, and Color: A lecture on Romantic and Victorian
Gardening in America” Paul Zammit “Dramatic Container Gardening”
The Midland
Master Gardeners will again host an array of vendors from across the state to
create a one-of-a-kind gardening marketplace. You never know what treasure
you’ll find. Get ready to shop!
Tickets are
$75.00 Go here to buy tickets-
Smart Vegetable Gardening Series - Thursday, March 3, 2016 to Friday,
March 4, 2016, 5:00pm. DeVos Place - 3rd
Floor, Grand Gallery Overlook Rooms F & G, 303 Monroe Ave NW., Grand
Rapids, MI.
Want to
start growing vegetables, but not sure where to start? Or are you already
growing, but want to increase your yield? The Michigan State University
Extension’s Smart Gardening team is here to help! With experts in every facet
of the veggie growing process, the Smart Vegetable Gardening Series can teach
you everything you need to know to make your vegetable garden a success! Plan
now to attend one or all 4 sessions.
Cost: $20
per session or $60 for the entire series! Registration includes a Weekend Pass
to the Show! https://secure.interactiveticketing.com/1.10/e4fbce/#/select
Spring Beauties: Native Wildflowers
for the Woodland Garden
Friday, February 26, 2016 Meadow Brook Hall, 480 South Adams Road, Rochester MI
Coffee and
refreshments will be served at 9:15 a.m. with program to follow at 10:00 a.m. Featuring
guest speaker Cheryl English, Professional Gardener, Designer, Author, and
Educator. Cheryl will discuss many Michigan native plants from Trout Lilies to
Trillium, from the exotic to the familiar, and explore some native alternatives
for the spring garden. Guests are welcome.
Meadow
Brook Garden Club. There is a $5 non-member donation.
Reservations
are not required. For more information, contact 248-364-6210, or
MBHGCMembers@gmail.com or visit
2016 Michigan Horticultural Therapy
Conference: "Horticultural Therapy: Connecting People & Plants" Friday, March 11, 2016 from 8:30
a.m. – 4:30 p.m.- Michigan State University: Plant & Soil Sciences Building,
East Lansing, Mi
The MHTA
conference is beneficial to anyone interested in learning how the people-plant
interaction brings therapeutic change and improves well-being. This event features informative breakout
sessions, book/product sales, hands-on workshops, displays, refreshments, door
prizes and optional visit to the MSU Indoor/Outdoor Children’s Garden. Join us
to learn aspects of horticultural therapy that can enhance adult day services,
seniors, children’s programs, recreational therapy programs, school gardens,
community and healing gardens, corrections, hospice, medical care/mental
health, rehabilitation programs and more.
Early
Registration fee is $60 for MHTA members/$80 for non-members (postmarked by
March 4).
Regular
registration is $70 for MHTA members/$90 for non-members and $30 for full time
students. Annual MHTA
membership is $20.
Registration
fee includes lunch (vegetarian option available).
For
additional information contact Cathy Flinton, HTR at 517-332-1616 x16238 or
Cathy@michiganhta.org; or M.C. Haering at MC@michiganhta.org or 248-982-6266. Or
go to http://www.michiganhta.org/index.php/march-11-conference
MICHIGAN HERB ASSOCIATES CONFERENCE,
A GARDEN FIESTA TO REMEMBER!
Thursday, March 10th, 2016, MSU, Plant
and Soil Sciences Building, East Lansing Mi.
Registration and Shoppe Sales start at 8:15 am and the program begins at
9:00 am.
The
conference opens with Lucinda Hutson, all the way from Texas. Her talks will be on Herbal Landscapes Inside
and Out, and The Ultimate Guide to Entertaining in your Outdoor Spaces. Also
speaking, Jessica Wright and Val Albright, Cultivating the Recipe Garden. The
day will finish with a Make and Take activity where we will all make a package
of Guacamole Seasoning to take home.
The pre-reservation
only buffet luncheon will be in the nearby conservatory with linen covered
tables, plants, and hopefully butterflies! Check out www.miherb.org for the rest of the lineup, and a registration
form to print out and mail. The conference is $45 (early bird rate before Feb 12),
Postmarked after February 12, MHA Member
Rate $50.00, Non-Member Rate $75.00 Salad Buffet Luncheon $13.00.
You must
register by March 2nd to reserve lunches. TIP: You can register up
until the day of the conference by phone by calling Dolores Lindsay
517.899.7275, or by coming as a walk-in. Walk in’s will be charged extra.
MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring
Program: The Garden Professors
April 9, 2016, 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue
Street East Lansing, MI
Looking to
bust through gardening myths and dig down to the truth? Join the creators of
The Garden Professors, a blog where expert professors from around the country
use science-based information to provide you with the facts about gardening
from every aspect. We will host two of these professors and they will be joined
by organic farming expert, Adam Montri. Attendees will have the opportunity to
submit questions in advance, many of which will be answered by these experts
during a final Q & A session! Early registration (on or before March 31)
for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $70, Early registration (on or before March
31) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $80 Registrations received after
March 31 $90
Contact:
Jennifer Sweet at 517-353-0443 or hgardens@msu.edu
Growing Great Gardens – Saturday,
March 12, 2016 - 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM - Heinz C Prechter Performing Arts Center,
21000 Northline Rd, Taylor, MI
Are you a
"plant geek"? Ready for some inspiration? Calling all gardeners for a
day of learning, food, prizes and fun at the 8th annual Growing Great Gardens.
Enjoy renowned horticulture gurus Scott Beuerlein, Joe Tychonievich, Ed Blondin
and Susan Martin. Lunch included. Master Gardeners can earn education hours,
too! (5-6 hours, depending on whether you sign up for the BONUS class at
lunchtime. Costs: $45 before 1/31. Lunch & learn class $10.
More info-
Phone: 888-383-4108
Grand Rapids Smart Gardening
Conference 2016, March
5, 2016, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. DeVos Place, Grand Rapids, Michigan
Several
speakers on native plants, low impact/care gardening, pollinators. More info-
Cost: Early
Bird Registration by Feb. 15, 2016 - $60, Late Registration - $70 Enrollment
deadline is Friday, Feb. 26, 2016 or until full. Registration at the door is
not available.
Contact:
Diane Brady, bradydi1@anr.msu.edu, 616-632-786
Great Lakes Hosta College, March
18-19, 2016, Upper Valley Career Center in Piqua, Ohio.
Students
attend 5 classes they have chosen from a program of over 70 classes taught by a
faculty of approximately 50 volunteers. Mid-day each student has lunch from a
delicious buffet included in the registration fee. At the end of the day
students take a brief break and then return for a banquet and talk that
concludes the Hosta College experience.
The vending
area offers a large selection of plants (even though it may be snowing
outside!), garden accessories, tools, and other garden-related merchandise for
shoppers. The Bookstore features gardening books at fantastic discounts,
stationery, society clothing items, and other Hosta College souvenirs. Persons
who belong to one of the local societies with membership in the Great Lakes
Region receive preferential registration and a reduced registration fee. $42 registration fee for members, $55 registration
fee for non-members.
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area. This link
has a lot of events listed on it.
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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