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Tuesday, February 23, 2016

February, 23, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

February, 23, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis


Hi Gardeners

Its beautiful outside today but this weather is crazy.  In case you aren’t aware (every TV station is leading with the weather) those of us in Michigan are set to get a big winter storm tomorrow into Thursday, maybe a blizzard.  I am hoping it dives south or goes north, but that doesn’t seem likely.  Its nice today- I have snowdrops blooming- but if you need food, fuel, medicine or other supplies get them today. 

Inside my plants are starting to wake from slumber.  There is new growth on many plants.  I have a Christmas cactus still in bloom, geraniums, hibiscus, kalanchoe, abutilon and peace lily in bloom inside.  I brought a red penta inside this winter and its getting ready to bloom.  This weekend I transplanted some cleome plants that were a foot high out of a large pot of kalanchoe that had been outside last summer and was the recipient of seeds.  They are looking a bit droopy but I think they will perk up.  Whether they will bloom inside I don’t know.

I was outside this weekend pruning apple trees and I am still sore.  The grass isn’t quite as green after this last snow melted off but my bamboo is still green, its usually straw brown by now.  Chickweed was growing; I collected some for my canaries.  I spent a lot of time wandering around, daydreaming about what I was going to do to the garden this spring and getting really mad at the deer damage.  There will be electric fencing around my shrubs next winter.

We were without power for a few hours Friday evening and I know some of you were without power for days.  That was just wind, without heavy snow.  As the weather gets more extreme all of us need to think about how to handle power outages and other emergencies.

Emergency preparedness- garden style

With another winter storm blowing in its time to spend a few moments thinking about what happens to your plants should you lose power and /or heat.  Many people have greenhouses in production or new plants started inside now which adds an additional layer of concern.  While your plants may not be your biggest concern in an emergency you should have some plans in place to keep them as healthy as possible.

Before the storm hits make sure you have fuel for propane or kerosene  heaters in greenhouses.   If you use electric heat do you have a generator you can put into use?  You’ll need gas and oil for that.  If you have a lot of plants in a greenhouse and use electricity to heat it you may want to have a backup heat source.  Remember some furnaces and heaters require electricity to start even if they run on propane or other fuel.

Plants don’t suffer from CO2 poisoning but people do.  Use caution entering greenhouses that have been heated with propane or kerosene heaters.  You can’t smell CO2 and it can be deadly in a short time.  You may want to bring a CO2 detector in with you and leave if it goes off.  Watch also for pets that may seek a warm place and be killed.

If you use a well for water do you have backup power that runs the pump?  If not, then store water for use not only for yourself and pets but for your plants too.  Check to see if plants need water before the power goes out, but if the power is out for a few days you may need additional water.

If the power in your greenhouse goes out and you won’t have a backup power system make sure you have some spun row cover, old sheets or blankets you can use to cover plants.  Plastic tarps and sheets can be used, but fabric is less likely to damage the plants.  If the power goes out and it’s sunny you may not need to do anything.  At night or in cloudy weather the temperature may drop quickly.  If the temperature starts dropping immediately cover your plants to help conserve heat.  You may want to use pots, stakes or other items in or between the flats or pots to hold the covering off the plants and keep them from smashing the tiny plants.

If you can arrange it you may want to cover the whole greenhouse with an additional layer of material.  There’s a decision to be made as to whether the sun will be able to warm the greenhouse and you won’t want anything to obstruct the sun or if there isn’t much sun in the forecast whether an additional heavy tarp or other covering will help hold heat in.

Plastic covered greenhouses that receive heavy snow loads may collapse or rip. You may want to use a push broom to brush snow off several times during a storm.  Wind may also damage greenhouses.  Check all your ties or clips before the storm.  You may want to add weight to the bottom of small greenhouses so they aren’t blown over. 

Plants inside may fare better if you are keeping the house warm in some way during a power outage.  Move houseplants and any seedlings to the warmest area of the house.  Don’t worry about light for a few days.  If you have no way to heat the house and the temperature gets close to 40 degrees move your plants to a small interior room or closet.  Inside a shower stall might work.  In addition you can enclose small plants or flats in plastic bags and drape coverings over larger plants and then place them in an enclosed space. 

If there is some sun shining through a south window move the plants there in the daytime and let the sun heat the soil.  You could use some plastic pop or other bottles filled with water and covered with a dark sock or other dark material to collect and store heat.  Sit them among and around the plants.  They will release heat after the sun goes down.  You may need to fill the bottles with water before the power goes out.

You may want to bring in a garden cart or wheelbarrow to move the plants around your home easily, from sunny daytime window to closet at night.  If you have very large potted plants you may need a hand truck to move them.  If you can’t move them you may want to cover them at night.

Plants can usually survive temperatures just above freezing for a few days, although some are more temperature sensitive than others.  If you can keep them at 50 degrees most will survive. When it’s very cold don’t water the plants unless they look wilted and the soil feels dry.  Some seedlings and tender plants may be stunted a bit from a few days of cold but will probably recover.  Dampening off may become prevalent in seedlings exposed to cold and you may have to discard those seedlings and start more.

Those of you with expensive orchid or other types of collections should consider whether there is a friend or even a school or commercial greenhouse nearby that could help out if you lose power and don’t have back-up heat, providing you could get the plants there.

Outside plants

Small plants in the garden, even bulbs that have sprouted quite a bit, probably won’t be harmed by snow or even ice.  You could use pots or buckets inverted over them to protect them if you are worried but be sure to remove them right after the storm.  The snow may actually protect many plants.

Evergreens may become loaded with heavy snow and be bent or splayed out.  Carefully remove the snow- you can break the branches easily.  If the branches are ice covered there is not much you can do.  Leave the shrubs or trees alone or you may do worse damage.  And be careful that larger limbs don’t drop on you.  After snow or ice is gone you may have to prop or tie up some plants to help them regain their shape.

If tree limbs break trim the broken area off to leave a clean cut.  You don’t need tree paint on the stumps.  Be very careful working around large trees after a bad storm.  You can easily be killed or seriously injured by falling branches.  Dangling branches can fall in unexpected ways if you tug at them and one branch falling can start a cascade. 

Indoor Cyclamen Care

Many gardeners long for spring blooms and merchandizers know it.  You’ll find a variety of blooming plants for sale in stores in late spring and you may be tempted to exercise your green thumb on them.  Some of the pretty plants on sale include cyclamen.

Cyclamen persicum is the cyclamen species used to provide indoor gift plants.  It has been hybridized with some other cyclamen species and selected for a variety of flower and leaf colors, including some double flower forms and miniature types.  This cyclamen is not hardy outside, although there are hardy cyclamen. 
 
This is Cyclamen hederifolium, similar to C. persicum
commons.wikimedia.org
Indoor cyclamens are manipulated into blooming through much of the fall, winter and spring months to provide gift plants.  Often the forcing treatment makes it hard to get them to bloom again and the easiest thing may be to enjoy them and then dispose of them.  For gardeners who can’t bear to do this you can try to rest the plants and then bring them into bloom again.

The cyclamen has oval to round leaves produced on long stalks coming out of a tuber just underground.   The leaves are often attractively marked with silver patterns although some plants may have all green leaves and some have almost completely silver leaves. 

Cyclamen flowers are produced in groups of 3-10.   Each flower has 5 petals united at the base with the tips flaring backward, commonly described as shooting star shape.   They come in shades of pink, lavender and white.  The plants produce flowers for a long period if conditions are favorable

While they are blooming keep them in the coolest spot you have that has good light. Cyclamen prefer to be at 65 degrees or below, but not below freezing.  Do not put them in a south or west window.  Let the soil in the pot dry slightly before watering again.  In a cool place the cyclamen can bloom for weeks. Eventually, however the blooms will fade. 

The leaves should be allowed to grow until they start to turn yellow and fade. Then stop watering the pot and when the leaves are dead, place the pot in a paper bag and store it in a dark place at room temperature. 

After at least 12 weeks, or when conditions are again cool, bring the pot out into bright light and water it.  After flower stalks begin appearing fertilize with a little house plant fertilizer and water when the soil dries out.   Cross your green thumbs and hope for the best.

Tips for choosing fruit trees

In the spring gardeners are often looking at gardening catalogs or stalking the aisles of nurseries looking for fruit trees.  The selection is often vast- especially in catalogs so how do you choose the fruit trees right for your landscape?  There are many decisions to be made so here’s a quick guide to help you choose.  This article is about non-citrus or tropical fruits.

First before buying any fruit trees make sure you have a suitable spot for them.  All fruit trees require a full sun position in well-drained soil.  You can amend soil that is low in nutrients but fruit trees will not grow where the soil stays wet for long periods of time.

Second decide on how much room you can devote to fruit trees. You can grow fruit in the front yard or close to the house but there is some mess involved with fruit production, and fruit trees pruned for good production are not as ornamental as other trees.  But it’s a good idea not to have the trees too far from the house in rural and suburban areas where deer and other animals are a problem.  You will be better able to protect the trees and their crops if they are away from the edges of woods and close to  your home.
Pie cherries

Each standard sized fruit tree will need 25 feet between it and the next tree in all directions.  Each semi-dwarf tree will need 10-15 feet of space in all directions, depending on variety and species.  True dwarf trees can be espaliered against a fence or planted as closely as 5-8 feet apart.  Some dwarf fruit trees can be grown in tubs but in northern areas these can pose a problem in winters.  To keep the roots from being killed the tubs may need to be buried in the winter or moved to another location where temperatures are cool enough to satisfy dormancy requirements (about 40 F) but not cold enough to kill the root system in an above ground pot.

Next you need to decide what species of fruit you can grow in your planting zone. Find your planting zone here.  Most apples and many pears and cherries will grow in planting zones 4-7.  Peaches, nectarines, apricots and plums are a little less hardy.  Some will grow in planting zones 5, a few even in 4, but most do best in zones 6-8.  Of course northern gardeners (zones lower than 8) will not be able to grow citrus in the ground.  And those in planting zones 8 and above have to search for apples and other fruits that have a low dormancy or chilling requirement.  Some fruit varieties will not set fruit if the winter temperatures are too warm.  Once you have become interested in a certain fruit variety make sure to check the zone hardiness which should be given in the catalog description or on the plant tag.

Pollination requirements are another factor you need to consider when choosing fruit trees. Apples, pears, sweet cherries, and some plums and one or two varieties of peaches or apricots need two trees of different varieties nearby to make fruit.  Sour or pie cherries, and most peaches, nectarines and apricots will self- pollinate- you don’t need two trees.  This pollination requirement may figure in when you have limited space to grow fruit trees.   Nearby usually means within 500 feet.   If a neighbor has a similar fruit tree you may not need two of that kind.  For apple pollination some ornamental crabapples or wild trees growing along roadsides can provide pollination.  (The fruit will not be affected by this cross pollination.) 

Two trees of the same variety of apples,pears, sweet cherries, and plums or even closely related varieties will not pollinate each other.  That means you should not plant two McIntosh apples if there are no other apple tree varieties nearby.   Read catalog descriptions to get an idea of what tree varieties will pollinate each other.  As a tip Golden Delicious apples are good pollinators for almost all apple varieties.   Gala and Red Delicious pollinate each other, Red Delicious and McIntosh are also compatible, HoneyCrisp and CandyCrisp can be pollinated by Jonathan or Gala apples.

Bartlett pears are good pollinators for most other pears.   Any two different pears will generally pollinate each other.  European type plums like Damson and prune plums do not need another pollinator but Japanese type plums do.  Pie type cherries are generally self- pollinating and one variety of sweet cherry called Stella is also self- pollinating.  Sweet cherries can also be pollinated by tart cherries; you may want one of each. Pawpaws need two varieties to set fruit.  Persimmons are self-pollinating.

You don’t need two trees of the same size for pollination- if you don’t have room for 2 semi-dwarf apple trees for instance- you could plant a dwarf variety and a semi-dwarf.  Or for apples, maybe you could plant a small ornamental crabapple in another location in the landscape. 

Should you buy your fruit tree potted or bare root?  Potted trees are generally found at local nurseries.  These may be large and attractive looking if they have been well cared for, but the selection of varieties will be small.  Buying bare root fruit trees by mail or on line will allow you to choose from a wide selection of trees, including heirloom types.  Bare root trees will catch up quickly to potted trees if they are planted soon after they arrive and are well cared for.  They may even be healthier than potted trees that have sat around for a while.  Even pretty good sized dormant trees can be sent  bare root  by mail.

The size of the tree and the age of the tree will determine how soon you get fruit. Size means both whether the tree is dwarf, semi-dwarf or standard in height when it is mature and what size it is when you buy it. Most people will find semi-dwarf trees are the easiest to care for and they bear quicker than standard size trees.  Some types of semi-dwarf fruit trees will get 20 feet high, but they can be pruned to remain lower.  Standard trees may get 40 feet in height in old age.  Peaches, nectarines and apricots tend to be smaller trees even if standard size is selected.  Dwarf trees usually remain below 10 feet in height.  Except in very restrained space conditions it’s generally better to select semi-dwarf trees.  Dwarf trees bear small crops and they often have trouble supporting those crops.  They tend to break under wind and snow loads more easily.

If you want fruit quickly, buy the largest size fruit trees you can.  Some places sell trees by trunk diameter, others by their height.  But larger size generally means the tree is older and will start bearing fruit earlier.  Larger sized and older trees cost a little more, but since fruit trees take from 3-5 years to even begin bearing fruit, sometimes longer for standard trees, buying trees that are 2-3 years old or more will get production going faster.  Some places sell “selected” fruit trees.  These are usually large and well branched for their age.  They may make your wait for fruit shorter if you can afford them.


Beware of people advertising seeds or seedling fruit trees.  Fruit trees are almost always propagated from cuttings grafted on to root stock.  Seeds of most fruit trees do not come true and will not bear the same type of fruit the parents had. It’s impossible to tell what kind of fruit a seedling will have until it starts producing and by then a lot of time has gone by.  Don’t go to the store and buy apples (or other fruits) and save the seed to plant.  You’ll get trees but the type of fruit you get will vary considerably and probably won’t be very good.   Don’t buy seeds or seedlings unless you have lots of time and enjoy surprises.

If you want to grow your fruit trees with minimal spraying of pesticides look for varieties that say they are disease resistant.  Most of these are newer varieties and there are more apple varieties in this category than other fruits. Keep in mind that they are disease resistant, not disease free.  Almost all fruit trees can be managed organically but how the fruit looks and how big your harvest is can vary by your management techniques. It helps to start with disease resistant trees.

The variety or “flavor” of a fruit type is a personal choice based on your taste and needs as long as it’s suitable for your space and climate.  Read up on what uses the variety is good for, like fresh eating or canning.  You may want to purchase different types of fruit and do a taste test, keeping in mind that fresh off the tree  fruit will probably taste better.  You may want to ask other gardeners what they like and what grows well in your area.   This may be the hardest decision you’ll make because there are hundreds of varieties of common fruits.

The difference between ground ivy, purple deadnettle and hensbit

Some of the first green weeds to pop up in spring belong to two different families and are often confused.  While it’s not of earth shaking importance you may want to know how to identify the difference between these sprawling goundcovers,  ground ivy, (Glechoma hederacea)  and one of the Lamiums, either deadnettle, (Lamium purpureum), hensbit, (Lamium amplexicaule), or Spotted deadnettle, (Lamium maculatum).  These plants have similar looking leaves, flowers and growth habits.

Ground Ivy
Ground ivy has one very good distinguishing feature; it smells like mint when it’s cut or bruised.  The plant crawls on the ground, and has green rounded to heart shaped leaves with a scalloped edge and prominent veins.  Each leaf has a short stem, and they are joined in pairs opposite each other on the stem.  The stems are square, and can be smooth or have short white hairs on them that point backward.

The flowers of ground ivy appear in the leaf joints at the end of stems in early spring and continue until warm weather.  Flowering stems are shorter and more upright than other stems.  The flowers are purplish blue and tubular with a flare of  2 lobes on the upper lip and 3 on the bottom.  Some of the flowers do produce tiny tan seeds but the plant spreads more by rooting its stems than by seed.

Each joint of the ground ivy stem may root where it touches ground.  In a season they can cover an amazing amount of space.  The plants are also called creeping Charlie, gill over the ground or field balm.  Ground Ivy likes damp, shady areas but can spread into full sun areas.  It is a perennial plant and when covered with snow will remain green all winter.  It is a frequent “weed” in lawns and gardens.

Ground Ivy is native to Eurasia where it has many uses and was probably brought here as an herbal remedy.  Because it is high in Vitamin C it was used as a spring tonic, usually made into a pleasant tasting tea.  The tea was said to be a cure for lead poisoning, common among painters in England.  It was also used to brew beer, especially in France. 

The lamiums come in 3 common species.  Hensbit  (L. amplexicaule) has leaves that may look similar to ground ivy, but on close inspection it can be seen that the leaves don’t have a stem and look like they encircle the square stem.  Young leaves have fine white hairs on the surface.  The stems of hensbit are reddish purple and are more upright than ground ivy.  There is no mint smell when the foliage is broken.

Hensbit
en.wikipedia.org kaldari01
The flowers of hensbit are tubular and lipped similar to ground ivy flowers.  They appear in whorls on the end of stems between the leaf layers.  They are a bit larger and showier than ground ivy flowers and range in color from pale pink to purple. Heaviest flowering is in early spring, but cool periods, especially in late summer will bring more blooming.  These flowers will produce numerous seeds.

Hensbit is an annual and while the stems may root, it spreads by seed.  Seedlings may come up at any time its mild and some survive the winter as seedlings to bloom in spring. It likes sunnier areas than ground ivy but can grow in partial shade.

Hensbit’s close relative is purple deadnettle, (L. purpureum).   Purple deadnettle has leaves that are more pointed than hensbit and the upper leaves on a stem have short stems. Leaves further down the stems may appear to circle the stem much like hensbit.  Leaves and stems have white hairs but the hairs do not cause itching like other nettles.  The end of each stem is packed with a whorl of leaves that have a reddish purple color,  which gives purple deadnettle its name.  The stems are also reddish.  

Purple deadnettle flowers are smaller, lighter in color and more hidden under the leaves than hensbit.  They are shaped like hensbit flowers.  This plant is also an annual that spreads by seed.  It can look quite showy in the lawn or garden in cool times of the year.  It likes sunny areas. 
Purple deadnettle

Purple deadnettle and hensbit are both native to Eurasia.  They are considered edible and are eaten in spring salads.  Both of these plants are important sources of nectar and pollen for bees in the spring.  They should be tolerated in wilder areas.   But you may want to prevent large patches from forming where animals like cattle and sheep may graze as they can cause a condition called staggers.

The other lamium one may encounter in a garden or lawn is actually cultivated as a ground cover but sometimes escapes.   Spotted deadnettle, (L. maculatum) is much like purple deadnettle, but the leaves are attractively spotted with white.  You may know it as White Nancy.   Several color variations exist, some more golden leaved, some silvery leaved as well as the spotted variation.  Numerous varieties are on the market. These plants are perennial and make good ground covers in partially shaded areas.   They flower sporadically through the summer. They spread by runners, but can become invasive.  They too, are native to Eurasia.
A variety of spotted deadnettle

Eat prunes –they’re good for you

If you have to have radiation treatments, are traveling in space or work with radiation it might be wise to include prunes in your diet.  A collaborative study done by NASA's Ames Research Center, the department of radiation oncology at the University of California-Irvine and the division of endocrinology at the University of California-San Francisco, found that consuming prunes (dried plums) daily helped prevent bone loss and changes to bone marrow caused by radiation.

In 2011 researchers from Florida State and Oklahoma State University found that eating prunes also helped prevent osteoporosis in menopausal women.  Women who ate prunes frequently had denser bones and fewer fractures.

And prunes are good for digestive health too. Researchers from Texas A&M University and the University of North Carolina found that prunes promoted good gut bacteria and reduced colon cancer rates. So your grandma was right, prunes are good for you.

Natural treatment for Varroa destructor mites in bees

Beekeepers in Europe have been using oxalic acid, a product of many plants, including rhubarb and spinach, to kill mites that have been weakening honeybees and contributing to their decline.  Research published in the Journal of Apicultural Research found that oxalic acid vaporized into hives during the winter was very successful in riding the bees of mites without harming them.  Spraying inside the hives with an oxalic acid solution was also effective.

Now this is just speculation but I wonder if planting rhubarb near hives and letting it flower, which it does in a very pretty manner, could help kill the mites by bees ingesting rhubarb nectar and pollen.  Or maybe making a tea using rhubarb stems and leaves to use in the hives during winter would work.   You can purchase oxalic acid crystals but if homemade would work it would be great.

Batten the hatches but remember its only 26 days to spring

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

Free seeds
I have these seeds that I collected from my garden that I am willing to share free.  Look at the list and if you would like some contact me at kimwillis151@gmail.com

I will tell you where to send a stamped self-addressed envelope for the seeds. If you want popcorn or black walnuts it will take several stamps.  I have published this list on the seed swap sites also.  I’ll try to give everyone who asks some until they are gone.

Lilies, a seed mixture of assorted hybrids, oriental- Asiatic- trumpet- Casa Blanca, Stargazer, La Reve, purple tree, yellow tree, Silk Road, more
Anise hyssop
Morning glory – common purple
Scarlet runner bean - few
Japanese hull-less popcorn
Hosta asst.of seed from numerous varieties- lots
Ligularia desmonda (daisy–like flower)
Ligularia rocket – spires of flowers
Yucca
Glad mixed
Zinnia mixed
Foxglove Dalmation peach
Calendula mixed
Baptisia blue
Jewelweed
Cleome white
Columbine mixed- small amount
Nicotiana small bedding type- mixed colors
Nicotiana sylvestris (woodland tobacco, Only the Lonely)
Daylily mixed
Kangaroo Paws orange
Hollyhock mixed
Black walnut- few hulled nuts

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact Julie Schröder, LAHS Secretary, 810-728-2269 - Julie.Schroder@brose.com


Smart Vegetable Gardening Series - Thursday, March 3, 2016 to Friday, March 4, 2016, 5:00pm.  DeVos Place - 3rd Floor, Grand Gallery Overlook Rooms F & G, 303 Monroe Ave NW., Grand Rapids, MI.

Want to start growing vegetables, but not sure where to start? Or are you already growing, but want to increase your yield? The Michigan State University Extension’s Smart Gardening team is here to help! With experts in every facet of the veggie growing process, the Smart Vegetable Gardening Series can teach you everything you need to know to make your vegetable garden a success! Plan now to attend one or all 4 sessions.
Cost: $20 per session or $60 for the entire series! Registration includes a Weekend Pass to the Show! https://secure.interactiveticketing.com/1.10/e4fbce/#/select

Spring Beauties: Native Wildflowers for the Woodland Garden Friday, February 26, 2016 Meadow Brook Hall, 480 South Adams Road, Rochester MI

Coffee and refreshments will be served at 9:15 a.m. with program to follow at 10:00 a.m. Featuring guest speaker Cheryl English, Professional Gardener, Designer, Author, and Educator. Cheryl will discuss many Michigan native plants from Trout Lilies to Trillium, from the exotic to the familiar, and explore some native alternatives for the spring garden. Guests are welcome.
Meadow Brook Garden Club. There is a $5 non-member donation.
Reservations are not required. For more information, contact 248-364-6210, or MBHGCMembers@gmail.com or visit

2016 Michigan Horticultural Therapy Conference: "Horticultural Therapy: Connecting People & Plants" Friday, March 11, 2016 from 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.- Michigan State University: Plant & Soil Sciences Building, East Lansing, Mi

The MHTA conference is beneficial to anyone interested in learning how the people-plant interaction brings therapeutic change and improves well-being. This event features informative breakout sessions, book/product sales, hands-on workshops, displays, refreshments, door prizes and optional visit to the MSU Indoor/Outdoor Children’s Garden. Join us to learn aspects of horticultural therapy that can enhance adult day services, seniors, children’s programs, recreational therapy programs, school gardens, community and healing gardens, corrections, hospice, medical care/mental health, rehabilitation programs and more.
Early Registration fee is $60 for MHTA members/$80 for non-members (postmarked by March 4). 
Regular registration is $70 for MHTA members/$90 for non-members and $30 for full time students. Annual MHTA membership is $20.
Registration fee includes lunch (vegetarian option available).
For additional information contact Cathy Flinton, HTR at 517-332-1616 x16238 or Cathy@michiganhta.org; or M.C. Haering at MC@michiganhta.org or 248-982-6266. Or go to http://www.michiganhta.org/index.php/march-11-conference

MICHIGAN HERB ASSOCIATES CONFERENCE, A GARDEN FIESTA TO REMEMBER! Thursday, March 10th, 2016,  MSU, Plant and Soil Sciences Building, East Lansing Mi.   Registration and Shoppe Sales start at 8:15 am and the program begins at 9:00 am.

The conference opens with Lucinda Hutson, all the way from Texas.  Her talks will be on Herbal Landscapes Inside and Out, and The Ultimate Guide to Entertaining in your Outdoor Spaces. Also speaking, Jessica Wright and Val Albright, Cultivating the Recipe Garden. The day will finish with a Make and Take activity where we will all make a package of Guacamole Seasoning to take home.

The pre-reservation only buffet luncheon will be in the nearby conservatory with linen covered tables, plants, and hopefully butterflies! Check out www.miherb.org  for the rest of the lineup, and a registration form to print out and mail. The conference is $45 (early bird rate before Feb 12),  Postmarked after February 12, MHA Member Rate $50.00, Non-Member Rate $75.00 Salad Buffet Luncheon $13.00.

You must register by March 2nd to reserve lunches. TIP: You can register up until the day of the conference by phone by calling Dolores Lindsay 517.899.7275, or by coming as a walk-in. Walk in’s will be charged extra.


MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring Program: The Garden Professors April 9, 2016, 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue Street East Lansing, MI

Looking to bust through gardening myths and dig down to the truth? Join the creators of The Garden Professors, a blog where expert professors from around the country use science-based information to provide you with the facts about gardening from every aspect. We will host two of these professors and they will be joined by organic farming expert, Adam Montri. Attendees will have the opportunity to submit questions in advance, many of which will be answered by these experts during a final Q & A session! Early registration (on or before March 31) for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $70, Early registration (on or before March 31) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $80 Registrations received after March 31 $90

Contact: Jennifer Sweet at 517-353-0443 or hgardens@msu.edu

Growing Great Gardens – Saturday, March 12, 2016 - 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM - Heinz C Prechter Performing Arts Center, 21000 Northline Rd, Taylor, MI
Are you a "plant geek"? Ready for some inspiration? Calling all gardeners for a day of learning, food, prizes and fun at the 8th annual Growing Great Gardens. Enjoy renowned horticulture gurus Scott Beuerlein, Joe Tychonievich, Ed Blondin and Susan Martin. Lunch included. Master Gardeners can earn education hours, too! (5-6 hours, depending on whether you sign up for the BONUS class at lunchtime. Costs: $45 before 1/31. Lunch & learn class $10.

More info- Phone: 888-383-4108

Grand Rapids Smart Gardening Conference 2016, March 5, 2016, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. DeVos Place, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Several speakers on native plants, low impact/care gardening, pollinators.  More info-
                                                   
Cost: Early Bird Registration by Feb. 15, 2016 - $60, Late Registration - $70 Enrollment deadline is Friday, Feb. 26, 2016 or until full. Registration at the door is not available.
Contact: Diane Brady, bradydi1@anr.msu.edu, 616-632-786

Great Lakes Hosta College, March 18-19, 2016, Upper Valley Career Center in Piqua, Ohio.

Students attend 5 classes they have chosen from a program of over 70 classes taught by a faculty of approximately 50 volunteers. Mid-day each student has lunch from a delicious buffet included in the registration fee. At the end of the day students take a brief break and then return for a banquet and talk that concludes the Hosta College experience.

The vending area offers a large selection of plants (even though it may be snowing outside!), garden accessories, tools, and other garden-related merchandise for shoppers. The Bookstore features gardening books at fantastic discounts, stationery, society clothing items, and other Hosta College souvenirs. Persons who belong to one of the local societies with membership in the Great Lakes Region receive preferential registration and a reduced registration fee.  $42 registration fee for members, $55 registration fee for non-members.

To register or get class list go to http://www.ihostohio.org/portal/glhc/college.asp

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


Tuesday, February 16, 2016

February, 16, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

February, 16, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis



Hi Gardeners
Mimulus

I am glad we are finally climbing out of the deep freeze again.  We ended up with 10 inches of snow last week.  It was a nice protection for the plants during the bitter cold but I will be glad when it’s gone again.  Gizmo chose one of the snowiest and coldest days to learn how to go through the dog door.  He is delighting in going in and out on his own but it has caused some problems.  Sunday he got burrs in his coat, he found them somewhere in the yard and I spent a lot of time getting them out of his long coat. 

A few minutes ago he came in and wanted on my lap.  I picked him up to find his belly and leg hair coated with snowballs.  He’s cold and wet now and so am I.  I guess the slightly warmer weather got him sloshing into the deeper stuff, rather than staying on the beaten path.  He is going outside to potty all on his own, which is great, but I am dreading when it rains and the snow turns to mud.

I sat Sunday and watched my bird feeders so I could participate in the Great Backyard Bird count.  It was a cold and windy day and my windows were a little frosted but I recorded 16 species of birds at the 3 feeders.  Over a 100 countries participate in the bird count, the US recorded 647 species with 112, 580 people participating.  Michigan recorded 127 species with 4,483 people participating.

Cornell University correlates the data. The tallies for each species haven’t been announced yet but Cornell has noted that there were many species observed for the first time in the US, mostly in the south, that have moved north.  One new species however, counted in Canada, was thought to have migrated from Iceland.  141 American robins were recorded in one area of Saginaw near some fruit bearing trees.  Two Golden, not bald eagles were seen in Jackson- pictures were shown.

So far the observations haven’t shown an unusual number of early migrants back north, despite the milder weather.  I think 141 robins should count but they don’t think so.  Nor has there been a lot of sightings of snow owls and other birds that come down out of the artic in some winters.  You can see the data and lots of interesting things at http://gbbc.birdcount.org/

I am hoping that the warm weather predicted for the weekend continues and spring arrives on schedule.  My seeds are arriving and the plants I ordered should be next.   Only 30 days to go!

Watering houseplants correctly

Michigan winters just cry out for homes and offices to be filled with the restful, cheerful green of houseplants.  But some people just can’t seem to keep houseplants thriving in the home or office and a great many houseplant problems can be traced to improper watering. Learning to water your houseplants correctly can turn brown thumbs into green ones.

First- don’t water on a schedule.  Don’t say that every Wednesday you will water the plants.  You might schedule a day to check the plants to see if they need water but don’t just automatically go around and water each pot.  Some plants won’t need water on the same day each week, and some may need it more often to remain healthy.


Plants may need less water in the winter when temperatures are cooler, the light is less and plants slow down their growth. But they may also need more water if the humidity is low and the plants are sitting close to hot air vents.  When warm weather arrives and the light is strong and growth vigorous, they will need additional water. Plants in plastic or metal pots usually need less water than those in porous clay or ceramic pots.

Symptoms of watering problems
The symptoms of over watering and under watering are often the same – wilting.  Wilting can happen because the soil is dry and the top parts of the plant don’t get enough water.  Or it can mean that the soil in the pot is saturated with water, the plants roots have rotted, and the top of the plant isn’t getting any water through those rotted roots. Feel the soil to see if it feels dry.  Don’t just touch the top- push your finger in the soil about an inch- or more for deep pots. If you touch the soil and it feels very wet, then the pot needs draining and drying, not more water, even if the plant is wilted.

Don’t let the plant wilt on a regular basis just so you know when it needs water.  Some plants recover pretty well each time but it takes its toll on the plant and disease and insect resistance will be reduced. Good indoor gardeners learn the subtle differences in their plants that mean they are just starting to dry out, droopier stems, slightly rolled leaves, undersides of leaves showing, little things that a good caretaker picks up on and tends to before the plant really wilts.

Some other signs that the plant is suffering from chronic dry soil other than wilting include yellowing and dropping leaves, dry leaf tips and poor flowering. And remember that each species of plant has a different requirement for water.  Some like to dry out between watering or even prefer to remain on the dry side

If you don’t trust your sense of touch to let you know if a plant needs water, there are many inexpensive tools on the market that will tell you if the soil is too dry.  There are meters, little ceramic creatures you stick in pots that change colors and other items to help you learn when to water. 

Overwatering
The symptoms of overwatering can look almost the same as under watering.  The plant may wilt, turn brown or yellow, or appear mushy. If you notice a swampy smell from your flower pots you are probably keeping them too wet. It’s always a good idea to check the saucers under flower pots an hour or so after watering.  If they still have water in them, empty them. 
Overwatering will kill most species of plants faster than under watering. Plants need air in the soil as well as water for roots to survive. Make sure to check the soil to see if it feels wet before watering. Cacti, succulents, and some other plants need to dry out between watering.  Check a reference book for the watering needs of each plant species.

If you think a plant is too wet, make sure the pot is draining well and any saucer with water gets emptied.  Let the potting medium get dry before watering again.  If the soil smells really swampy and has algae growth on top you may want to re-pot the plant in new potting soil that is only slightly moistened. If the roots have rotted away the plant may be able to be saved by rooting cuttings of it.

What water to use
If a plant needs water use room temperature water.  Rain water and distilled water are probably best for houseplants but either city water or well water can be used and for most plants won’t be a problem.  Both softened water and “hard” well water have mineral salts in them that can build up in the planting soil. If your well water is very salty or high in mineral content it may harm some sensitive plants.  If you use a water softener try to get well water for your plants before it goes through the softener.
Crassula

Chlorinated city water should sit for 24 hours before being used on plants; it allows some of the chlorine to dissipate into the air.  However, other chemicals will remain.  Some plants are sensitive to chemicals like fluoride which are added to city water supplies.

Should you use bottled drinking water on your plants?  Maybe.  Recent studies have shown that for some reason, several popular brands of bottled drinking water are very acidic.  For some plants this could be a problem.  You may want to buy some simple pH test strips to test the bottled water you want to use.  A pH value of 7 is neutral and good for most plants.  Below a value of 7 the water is acidic and above it alkaline.  Some plants like acidic conditions and for them a pH value of 5.5 to 7 would be ok.  For most plants a pH of 6.5 would be ok but avoid lower values.  Water would be too alkaline for some plants at a value of 8 or higher.

The bottom line is that you may want to use rain water or distilled water on valuable houseplants.  Well water may be the next best choice, especially if it hasn’t been softened and isn’t too salty or very high in minerals. 

Watering techniques
Some people get frustrated when they water a plant and the water seems to go right through the pot and out into the saucer. When a plant is allowed to get very dry, the planting medium may shrink away from the sides of the pot.  This creates a small gap between the soil and the pot and when you water the water goes right through the pot without soaking the soil.

If you notice water pouring out the drainage holes as soon as you pour water on the plant it may have gotten too dry.  To fix this place the pot in a larger container of water and let it soak or put it in the tub and let water drip on it for a couple of hours. The soil should saturate and expand. Make sure the pot drains well after a couple of hours.  Then try not to let the pot get that dry again.

Another reason that plants may seem too dry even if you water them frequently and see water draining into the saucer is that the roots have become too crowded.  Soaking the pot as above may help, but you may have to re-pot the plant in a slightly bigger pot with new soil.  Slide the plant out of the pot. If the root system is one huge mass with little soil showing and there is a layer of coiled plant roots on the bottom the plant needs more room.

Most plants can be watered by pouring water directly on the soil surface.  Avoid getting water on the foliage, especially hairy foliage.  Some plants do better when watered from the bottom.  Some bromeliads and succulent plants need to have water poured into the cup shaped bases they have.  Staghorn ferns, some orchids and tillandsias don’t like water poured into their pots but need to be briefly submerged in water or heavily misted with water.  Read the care directions you get when you buy a plant or look up your plants needs to see if a special watering technique is needed.

Reducing salt build up
Both hard and soft water have chemical salts that get into the potting soil when we water plants.  Fertilizers also contain chemical salts.  Outdoors excess salts usually move through the soil and out of the range of plant roots, but in a pot they have nowhere to go.  They end up burning the plants roots and stunting its growth or even killing it.

Signs of excess salt damage include stunted growth, sometimes reddish or yellow discoloration of foliage, dry, browned leaf tips and loss of lower leaves and wilting from burned root tips.  Often a whitish- yellow crusty build up on top of the soil or even on the outside of the pot will be noticed.

To keep salts from building up use distilled water or rainwater to water plants if possible.  If not, water the plants and then empty the saucers that collect the excess water after an hour or so.  Salt that is washed through the pot when you water won’t then be absorbed back into the pot as the soil dries out again.  This is usually not enough to totally stop salt build up, especially if you regularly fertilize your houseplants.

Every few months pots watered with soft city water or hard well water should be leached.  The pot needs to be placed in tub or sink and flooded with water continuously for a couple hours.  Let the water run slowly through the pot so soil doesn’t get washed away too. In some cases of heavy salt build up it may be better to repot the plant with fresh potting soil.

The importance of the right pot
The type of pot that you use for houseplants is crucial to their health.  It must have good drainage.  Do not use a pot without drainage holes even if you add gravel or broken pot pieces to the bottom.  After a while soil washes between the pieces and the small reservoir you created is lost.  If you have problems with too much soil washing out of a pot through the drainage holes place a coffee filter inside the bottom of the pot.

If you have a pretty pot without drain holes either make drainage holes in it or put the plant in a pot with drainage and then slip it inside the pretty one. Something should be placed in the bottom of the outer pot as a spacer, so the inner pot sits a little above the bottom of the outer pot.  Make sure to empty water that collects in the outer pot after watering.

Pots should neither be too small or large for the plant.  Large pots are hard to water correctly, the water moves down out of the reach of the plants roots or the top layer remains dry and the bottom is saturated and damaging plant roots.  Pots that are too small and are filled with roots will need watering much more often than people realize and may be impossible to keep them watered as often as they need it.  They will need to be re-potted.

Unpainted clay pots allow water to evaporate through the sides of pots as well as draining from the bottom.  If you have a habit of overwatering clay pots may help.  Clay pots are also good for cacti and succulents that like drier soil.  Otherwise the material of the pot is not as important as the drainage it has.

There are now many pots on the market that are labeled self-watering.  They have a reservoir you put water in and a wicking system that delivers water to the plants as the soil dries. These are good for people who have plants in school rooms and offices that have long vacation periods or people who travel a lot.  But for those pots to work the reservoir has to be checked often.  If it doesn’t have water, the plant won’t.  There is a tendency for people with this type of pot to forget about checking them for longer than they planned or to not realize that changing environmental conditions have changed the plants water needs.

Properly watering your houseplants will result in beautiful lush plants you will be proud to display.

Nutrition notes

A new study from the University of Eastern Finland published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition confirms many other studies in finding that eating eggs does not raise blood cholesterol.  Eating eggs provides a perfect protein combination and provides many necessary nutrients. 

Beet juice has been used by athletes to increase blood oxygen capacity and boost performance.  Now a study done by Wake Forest Baptist Medical Center and published in the Journal of the American College of Cardiology-Heart Failure finds that beet juice helps heart failure symptoms. Beet juice given daily to elderly patients with heart failure in doses as low as about 2 ounces improved their exercise tolerance, breathing comfort and lowered blood pressure.

Barley can lower blood glucose levels and help prevent metabolic syndrome diabetes, and cardiovascular disease according to a study done by Lund University in Sweden. It also helps people lose weight by reducing appetite and increasing metabolic rates.  The fiber in barley reacts with gut bacteria to regulate insulin levels, stimulate the body to produce helpful hormones and reduce inflammation in the cardiovascular system. 

People with a higher level of a certain gut bacteria called Prevotella copri bacteria had better results when they ate barley daily but over time the consumption of barley increases the amount of that helpful bacteria in the gut and also increases the benefits of barley.

The study found that the benefits of barley on the metabolism were measurable after only 3 days of barley consumption in most patients.  Barley can be consumed by adding it to soups, stews, salads, or making baked goods with it.  Barley tastes pretty good so that shouldn’t be a hard dietary addition.

An Australian grass can make better condoms

This should have been in the Valentine’s Day edition but here’s the scoop anyway.  Australian aborigines have long made a resin from a native  spinifex grass that they used to attach arrow points to shafts.  Recently researchers found that resin can produce “nanocellulose” fibers with great strength and flexibility. 

The nanocellulose product was sent to an American condom manufacturer and it was found that when it was added to latex a condom as thin as a hair, (their description), could be made that still met the standards of condom safety and reliability.  They said the product could also be used to make thinner latex gloves.

Cows need oregano to reduce methane gas

Oregano is great stuff; both bees and people love it.  Cows can eat it too, and when they do it reduces the amount of methane gas they produce when they belch.  Cow belches are supposed to be one of the large factors in greenhouse gases raising the global temperature.  Their gut bacteria produce methane gas when they ruminate, (pre-digest) feed which cows release by belching.
Oregano

Some dairy/ beef producers feed nitrate supplements or special fats to cattle to reduce methane emissions but organic dairy or beef production cannot use those.  A study in Denmark found that feeding cows oregano reduced methane emissions by at least 25%.  Cows don’t mind eating it and it can be grown with other forage or hay crops.  Studies are now being done to determine whether feeding hay or silage would be best and whether special pasture/hay cultivars of oregano with high essential oil levels can be developed.

Plants that don’t like other plants- Allelopathy


Allelopathy is the name for what happens when one plant releases chemicals that affects the growth of another plant.  In theory this could be either a harmful or beneficial effect, but in practice, when you hear people talking about allelopathy, they are generally referring to harmful effects.  This article is about plants which can have negative effects on other plants that we have in the landscape or grow for food.

There are many chemicals manufactured by plants for their defense.  They may keep animals from eating them or the chemicals may be used to prevent competition from other plants.  These competition restraining chemicals work in many ways, some prevent germination of seeds, some effect growth of established plants, some change the soil pH, some may inhibit the Mycorrhizal fungi that grow on plant roots and help the plant obtain water and nutrients from the soil.  Most allopathic chemicals don’t affect all species of plants, although some plants have very strong allopathic properties that affect many species.  A plant’s chemical secretions can also affect members of its own species, preventing new seedlings from germinating too close to the original plant.

Plants release chemicals from their roots and leaf tissues into the air and soil in gaseous and liquid discharges, and when microbes decompose their remains.  The release or manufacture of some of those chemicals depends on environmental conditions, such as heat, exposure to UV rays, availability of soil nutrients, water, and whether plants are under stress from predators.  Some chemicals may only be manufactured and released at certain growth stages of the plants or in certain seasons.  Most allopathic chemicals can linger in the environment for at least a year after the plant is gone.

The protective chemicals that plants secrete are often ones that humans use in herbal medications.  What’s bad for other plants is sometimes good for us.  But sometimes allopathic chemicals can harm animals and humans too. Researchers are also studying allopathic chemicals that plants release to produce organic weed controls and possibly insecticides.  But the study of allelopathy and the ability to isolate and identify specific allopathic chemicals is a fairly recent one and much more research on the subject needs to be done.

Our ancestors however, had knowledge of what plants could help or hinder other plants growth and they often utilized them.  Native Americans planted squash around their corn and beans because the squash helped suppress weeds, both by blocking sunlight and as we now know by producing allopathic chemicals that inhibited weed germination and growth.  Both corn and beans are not affected by the squash chemicals.  Sunflowers were also planted among other crops and they too, have allopathic properties.  Early farmers soon learned about rotating crops, some crops leave allopathic chemicals in the soil and the same crop will not grow well there the following season. (Crops are also rotated because insect and disease can build up in soil and some crops use more of certain minerals in the soil.)  Farmers also planted cover crops like rye between crops, because rye has chemicals which suppress many weed seeds from germinating.

Allelopathy is often cited by those who want to remove non-native plants from the environment.  Some plants new to an environment do inhibit the growth of plants already present in the environment, sometimes to what seems to be an alarming rate.  But as recent research is finding out, the allopathic properties of the invasive plants usually fade over time.  The soil microbes and other plants develop immunity to the chemicals, and the alien plants adjust their chemical manufacturing from all-out assault status to maintenance as they adjust to the environment.

Sunflowers have allopathic  properties.
You as a gardener should be aware of what plants in the landscape and in food growing gardens have allopathic properties so you can give your plants the best environment possible.  Gardeners should also remember that allopathic chemicals can be found in mulches, compost, and plant residue left from the previous season.  These chemicals can affect plants for a year and sometimes longer.  In general not all plant species will be affected by chemicals from a certain plant.  And some plant species do not have known allopathic properties.

Trees in the landscape with allopathic properties

The black walnut is the most famous of allopathic trees.  Black walnuts release a chemical called juglone, which inhibits the growth of many species of plants.  This chemical is released from the roots, from decaying leaves, twigs and nut husks, from wood or bark chipped for mulch, and even when rain falls on the tree canopy.  Since the root system of trees can extend 3 or more times the width of the tree canopy, black walnuts can affect plants a good distance away from them.  Plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes, peppers and potatoes are greatly affected by juglone.  Their seeds won’t germinate well in soil with juglone, and plants transplanted into soil contaminated with juglone will start to grow, then quickly yellow and die as they enter maturity.

Other plants affected by juglone include: apple, azalea, birch, blackberry, blueberry, chrysanthemum, colchicum, forget-me-not, grapes, lily-of-the-valley, linden, mountain laurel, peony, pines, rhododendron, and thyme.  Some other cultivated plants may also be affected.  Horse owners will also want to keep black walnut trees out of pastures as the leaves and nuts can make horses founder.  Black walnut nut husks are poisonous to dogs if they are consumed.

Other trees that affect the growth of some other  plants include; Ailanthus Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima), balsam popular, black cherry, box elder, hackberry, juniper,  oaks, red maple, sassafras, sugar maple,  and sycamore (planetree).  The effect of these trees is most often seen on other trees, but they also inhibit some grasses and weeds from growing near them.  Silver maples and honey locust both inhibit the growth of Kentucky bluegrass.

Shrubs and other woodies that have allopathic chemicals include bearberry, elderberry, forsythia intermedia, mountain laurel (Kalmia angustifolia), rhododendron, and sumac.   Pines and spruces and particularly Douglas firs are inhibited by many of these shrubs.  Interestingly since these are both common in the landscape, Kentucky bluegrass and forsythia inhibit each other’s growth.

Grasses and other plants

Grasses that be a problem for some plants include; Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrass, perennial rye, foxtail, tall and red fescue, and most of these are common in lawns.  Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue affect azaleas, barberry, forsythia, flowering dogwood, and yews.  Bentgrass can affect azalea, barberry, yew, and forsythia.  Perennial rye affects apple, forsythia, and flowering dogwood.  Tall fescue can inhibit black walnut growth, which might be a good thing in some places.

Lantana may inhibit the growth of other plants.
Other garden plants that have allopathic chemicals include most ferns, asters, goldenrod, fennel, lantana, and sunflowers.  The bare spot under the bird feeder where sunflower husks pile up is due to both the mulch effect and allopathic chemicals.  Sunflower roots also inhibit many plant species and should be used cautiously in mixed borders.

Ferns often inhibit broad leaved plants but monocots,(grasses and things like lilies) are often not affected. Be cautious using lantana in containers because many plants do not grow well with it.  Goldenrod and perennial asters also suppress the growth of other plants.  Fennels are being used as ornamental plants now but be aware that many plants do not grow well near fennel.  Geraniums should not be combined with ornamental peppers or eggplants as they inhibit the growth of those plants.

In the vegetable garden plants in the cabbage family – broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and so on inhibit each other’s growth and should not be planted following each other and kept separated in the garden.  Cabbage family members also stunt strawberry plants.  Mustard grown for greens can inhibit the growth of many other plants.  Never plant potatoes near sunflowers.  In fact sunflowers should probably be grown in a patch of their own and not mixed with vegetables as they inhibit many plants.

As mentioned earlier squash- and pumpkins can affect other plants.  They should not be planted near potatoes, peppers, or tomatoes. Garlic and onions will affect the growth of beans and peas.  Dill will stunt the growth of tomatoes.  Dill should also be kept away from carrots.  Cucumbers may be affected by sage and other mint family members.  Mint family members and onions should not be grown near asparagus.  Fennel should be separated from all other plants as it is highly allopathic.

When growing food crops you should always rotate crop families from year to year.  Many food crops produce allopathic chemicals that linger in the soil that affect the same crop next year even if debris is completely removed and similar plants also use soil nutrients in the same way, causing deficiencies if the same crop follows.  See the list of incompatibilities above and avoid planting those crops after an incompatible crop when rotating crops. 

Weeds often have allopathic chemicals and that’s why they are so successful.  It goes without saying that weeds should be removed from food and flower beds. 

Goldenrod is allopathic.
As mentioned the science of allelopathy is still new.  Some effects we suspect may be due to allelopathy because of observation may eventually be found to be caused by other things.  If you would like to read more about allelopathy here are some links.  Some of these references were used to prepare this article.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs186  Includes table of allelopathic interactions



http://www.dmu.dk/1_viden/2_publikationer/3_fagrapporter/rapporter/fr315.pdf  Comprehensive review of allelopathy from Denmark.


http://www.jes2s.com/pdfs/qin_article.pdf    Results of an experiment of juglone from black walnuts on seed germination.












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Hoping for sun tomorrow, we need sun!
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

Free seeds
I have these seeds that I collected from my garden that I am willing to share free.  Look at the list and if you would like some contact me at kimwillis151@gmail.com

I will tell you where to send a stamped self-addressed envelope for the seeds. If you want popcorn or black walnuts it will take several stamps.  I have published this list on the seed swap sites also.  I’ll try to give everyone who asks some until they are gone.

Lilies, a seed mixture of assorted hybrids, oriental- Asiatic- trumpet- Casa Blanca, Stargazer, La Reve, purple tree, yellow tree, Silk Road, more
Anise hyssop
Morning glory – common purple
Scarlet runner bean - few
Japanese hull-less popcorn
Hosta asst.of seed from numerous varieties- lots
Ligularia desmonda (daisy–like flower)
Ligularia rocket – spires of flowers
Yucca
Glad mixed
Zinnia mixed
Foxglove Dalmation peach
Calendula mixed
Baptisia blue
Jewelweed
Cleome white
Columbine mixed- small amount
Nicotiana small bedding type- mixed colors
Nicotiana sylvestris (woodland tobacco, Only the Lonely)
Daylily mixed
Kangaroo Paws orange
Hollyhock mixed
Black walnut- few hulled nuts

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook

Invitation
If you are a gardener in Michigan close to Lapeer we invite you to join the Lapeer Area Horticultural Society. The club meets once a month, 6:30 pm, on the third Monday at various places for a short educational talk, snacks and socializing with fellow gardeners. No educational or volunteer requirements for membership, all are welcome. Membership dues are $20 per year. Come and visit us, sit in on a meeting for free. Contact Julie Schröder, LAHS Secretary, 810-728-2269 - Julie.Schroder@brose.com


Dow Gardens, 2016 Know & Grow Seminar Saturday, February 20, 2016 - 8:15 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Bullock Creek High School, 1420 South Badour Road, Midland; MI
Speakers- Paul Epsom “My E Garden, (Five E's)” & "Winter Elements", Marta McDowell “Curves, Carpets, and Color: A lecture on Romantic and Victorian Gardening in America” Paul Zammit “Dramatic Container Gardening”
The Midland Master Gardeners will again host an array of vendors from across the state to create a one-of-a-kind gardening marketplace. You never know what treasure you’ll find. Get ready to shop!
Tickets are $75.00   Go here to buy tickets-

Smart Vegetable Gardening Series - Thursday, March 3, 2016 to Friday, March 4, 2016, 5:00pm.  DeVos Place - 3rd Floor, Grand Gallery Overlook Rooms F & G, 303 Monroe Ave NW., Grand Rapids, MI.

Want to start growing vegetables, but not sure where to start? Or are you already growing, but want to increase your yield? The Michigan State University Extension’s Smart Gardening team is here to help! With experts in every facet of the veggie growing process, the Smart Vegetable Gardening Series can teach you everything you need to know to make your vegetable garden a success! Plan now to attend one or all 4 sessions.
Cost: $20 per session or $60 for the entire series! Registration includes a Weekend Pass to the Show! https://secure.interactiveticketing.com/1.10/e4fbce/#/select

Spring Beauties: Native Wildflowers for the Woodland Garden Friday, February 26, 2016 Meadow Brook Hall, 480 South Adams Road, Rochester MI

Coffee and refreshments will be served at 9:15 a.m. with program to follow at 10:00 a.m. Featuring guest speaker Cheryl English, Professional Gardener, Designer, Author, and Educator. Cheryl will discuss many Michigan native plants from Trout Lilies to Trillium, from the exotic to the familiar, and explore some native alternatives for the spring garden. Guests are welcome.
Meadow Brook Garden Club. There is a $5 non-member donation.
Reservations are not required. For more information, contact 248-364-6210, or MBHGCMembers@gmail.com or visit

2016 Michigan Horticultural Therapy Conference: "Horticultural Therapy: Connecting People & Plants" Friday, March 11, 2016 from 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.- Michigan State University: Plant & Soil Sciences Building, East Lansing, Mi

The MHTA conference is beneficial to anyone interested in learning how the people-plant interaction brings therapeutic change and improves well-being. This event features informative breakout sessions, book/product sales, hands-on workshops, displays, refreshments, door prizes and optional visit to the MSU Indoor/Outdoor Children’s Garden. Join us to learn aspects of horticultural therapy that can enhance adult day services, seniors, children’s programs, recreational therapy programs, school gardens, community and healing gardens, corrections, hospice, medical care/mental health, rehabilitation programs and more.
Early Registration fee is $60 for MHTA members/$80 for non-members (postmarked by March 4). 
Regular registration is $70 for MHTA members/$90 for non-members and $30 for full time students. Annual MHTA membership is $20.
Registration fee includes lunch (vegetarian option available).
For additional information contact Cathy Flinton, HTR at 517-332-1616 x16238 or Cathy@michiganhta.org; or M.C. Haering at MC@michiganhta.org or 248-982-6266. Or go to http://www.michiganhta.org/index.php/march-11-conference

MICHIGAN HERB ASSOCIATES CONFERENCE, A GARDEN FIESTA TO REMEMBER! Thursday, March 10th, 2016,  MSU, Plant and Soil Sciences Building, East Lansing Mi.   Registration and Shoppe Sales start at 8:15 am and the program begins at 9:00 am.

The conference opens with Lucinda Hutson, all the way from Texas.  Her talks will be on Herbal Landscapes Inside and Out, and The Ultimate Guide to Entertaining in your Outdoor Spaces. Also speaking, Jessica Wright and Val Albright, Cultivating the Recipe Garden. The day will finish with a Make and Take activity where we will all make a package of Guacamole Seasoning to take home.

The pre-reservation only buffet luncheon will be in the nearby conservatory with linen covered tables, plants, and hopefully butterflies! Check out www.miherb.org  for the rest of the lineup, and a registration form to print out and mail. The conference is $45 (early bird rate before Feb 12),  Postmarked after February 12, MHA Member Rate $50.00, Non-Member Rate $75.00 Salad Buffet Luncheon $13.00.

You must register by March 2nd to reserve lunches. TIP: You can register up until the day of the conference by phone by calling Dolores Lindsay 517.899.7275, or by coming as a walk-in. Walk in’s will be charged extra.


MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring Program: The Garden Professors April 9, 2016, 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue Street East Lansing, MI

Looking to bust through gardening myths and dig down to the truth? Join the creators of The Garden Professors, a blog where expert professors from around the country use science-based information to provide you with the facts about gardening from every aspect. We will host two of these professors and they will be joined by organic farming expert, Adam Montri. Attendees will have the opportunity to submit questions in advance, many of which will be answered by these experts during a final Q & A session! Early registration (on or before March 31) for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $70, Early registration (on or before March 31) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $80 Registrations received after March 31 $90

Contact: Jennifer Sweet at 517-353-0443 or hgardens@msu.edu

Growing Great Gardens – Saturday, March 12, 2016 - 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM - Heinz C Prechter Performing Arts Center, 21000 Northline Rd, Taylor, MI
Are you a "plant geek"? Ready for some inspiration? Calling all gardeners for a day of learning, food, prizes and fun at the 8th annual Growing Great Gardens. Enjoy renowned horticulture gurus Scott Beuerlein, Joe Tychonievich, Ed Blondin and Susan Martin. Lunch included. Master Gardeners can earn education hours, too! (5-6 hours, depending on whether you sign up for the BONUS class at lunchtime. Costs: $45 before 1/31. Lunch & learn class $10.

More info- Phone: 888-383-4108

Grand Rapids Smart Gardening Conference 2016, March 5, 2016, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. DeVos Place, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Several speakers on native plants, low impact/care gardening, pollinators.  More info-
                                                   
Cost: Early Bird Registration by Feb. 15, 2016 - $60, Late Registration - $70 Enrollment deadline is Friday, Feb. 26, 2016 or until full. Registration at the door is not available.
Contact: Diane Brady, bradydi1@anr.msu.edu, 616-632-786

Great Lakes Hosta College, March 18-19, 2016, Upper Valley Career Center in Piqua, Ohio.

Students attend 5 classes they have chosen from a program of over 70 classes taught by a faculty of approximately 50 volunteers. Mid-day each student has lunch from a delicious buffet included in the registration fee. At the end of the day students take a brief break and then return for a banquet and talk that concludes the Hosta College experience.

The vending area offers a large selection of plants (even though it may be snowing outside!), garden accessories, tools, and other garden-related merchandise for shoppers. The Bookstore features gardening books at fantastic discounts, stationery, society clothing items, and other Hosta College souvenirs. Persons who belong to one of the local societies with membership in the Great Lakes Region receive preferential registration and a reduced registration fee.  $42 registration fee for members, $55 registration fee for non-members.

To register or get class list go to http://www.ihostohio.org/portal/glhc/college.asp

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area.  This link has a lot of events listed on it.

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.

I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com