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Tuesday, January 12, 2016

January 12, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

January 12, 2016, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

 
And then winter comes, all cold and blustery
Sharp as a sword
Reflected light, harsh and hard
Brittle white and green gone brown
She felt it in her hand,
The hardness of life
Closed her eyes, felt its faint breath
The promise of warmth, green and tender days
Stealing up softly - seed

≈Kim Willis≈

 Hi Gardeners

Just trying my hand at being mystical.  Outside my window the snow is blowing sideways and the little birds are clinging to a swaying bird feeder.  What better day to slip into the world of dream gardening?

We had to have winter of course, but hopefully it will be short and merciful.  I trudge outside in layers of clothes twice a day, in those hated boots, hauling buckets of warm water to the barn.  I think about warmer climates- people I know in warmer states showing me pictures of flowers and fresh vegetables.  Then I pull out the garden catalogs and make my lists and plans.  Thank goodness for houseplants, I need the green and cheerful colors from them.

The eucomis (pineapple lily) Sparkling Burgundy that I brought inside to the unheated porch is putting out new shoots.  My other eucomis always goes dormant and I just leave it sit in the pot until it starts growing again in late spring- then I carry the pot back out and sink it in the ground.  This one has kept growing.  It’s quite pretty in bloom and I recommend it.

My water lily is also sprouting new leaves.  I have it in a bucket on the porch – with water just to the top of the pot.  It went dormant, which I expected it to do, but now I see two tiny leaves poking up.  We’ll see how that goes.  If I had room I’d bring it inside and see if I could get it to bloom early.

Maybe the plants know something we don’t.

Gardening you can do in January

Check your outside trees and shrubs and protect them from deer, vole and rabbit damage if you haven’t already done so.  A barrier around the plant of small wire mesh, 3 feet high is recommended for the trunk.  If deer eat the tops of evergreens surround them with a barrier of deer netting.  If you can’t get poles in the ground you can drape it over plants.

Fruit trees and grapes can be pruned this month, if you are good with cold weather.

Cut up live, discarded, Christmas trees.  Use the branches to cover perennials or chop them into smaller pieces and compost.  If you have a large pond with fish throw the trees in or on the ice.  They make good spawning spots for fish.

Keep the bird feeders full.

Build new planters, birdhouses and other garden crafts.  Paint old garden accessories new colors.
Check the houseplants for signs of insects or disease.  Trim off dead leaves and dust leaves if needed.  Rotate plants next to windows to keep them growing straight.  Start cuttings or root leaves from houseplants like jades, aloes, Christmas cacti, African violets, Rex begonias, spider plant, pothos and other vining plants.

Start tuberous begonia bulbs inside in a warm place.  They need plenty of time to mature and start blooming before the last frost in spring.

Check summer bulbs and tubers in storage.  If any are soft and molded, discard them.  If they look shriveled add a little moisture to the material you are storing them in.

New plants to try this year

I hope one of your garden resolutions was to try some new plants in the garden this year.  Here's some suggestions.

Edelweiss
Credit 280808 by Bernd Haynold wikimedia commons 
Edelweiss – (Leontopodium alpinum)-the white flowers of this plant mimic the snowcapped mountains of Europe and Asia it originates in.  Edelweiss has a lot of cultural significance and folklore attributed to it and is now an endangered, protected plant in most of its native range.  It is also used in herbal medicines and is being studied for its UV absorbing qualities.

Edelweiss has wooly leaves and flowers; it is covered with fine white hairs as if to ward off the cold.  It blooms in late summer, the small white flowers which look like two stars laid on each other are actually sepals.  The true flowers are the yellow structures in the center of their wooly blanket.  There are a few cultivated varieties with fuller, larger flowers.

Edelweiss is an alpine plant, low growing and good for rock gardens or wall crevices that appreciates poor, alkaline, gravely soil.   It needs full sun, is considered to be a short lived perennial and is hardy in zones 3 through maybe 7.

Lily of the Valley Tree (Oxydendrum arborum) This is the US native tree, there are two other trees by the same common name that are not native or closely related.  It is also known as Sourwood.  It is hardy to zone 5b- that is marginally hardy in Lower Michigan.  But if you can get it to grow, it’s well worth the risk.

Lily of the Valley tree is a small tree, attractive in several seasons.  It has long clusters of nodding white bell shaped flowers in mid-summer that are very fragrant and attract bees by the drove.  In fall it has brilliant scarlet color that is long lasting.  The bark is reddish and the tree’s shape is attractive in winter. 

The Lily of the Valley tree will grow in full sun or partial shade.  It can be kept pruned to a large bush form.  It prefers moist, acidic soil. Sourwood has herbal uses too.

Honeyberry
Honeyberry- (Lonicera caerulea) With the popularity of edible landscaping this berry has become a little better known.  It’s a member of the honeysuckle family and has typical honeysuckle type flowers of yellow white in very early spring.  It can grow as a vine or small bush, depending on variety.  You need two separate varieties of Honeyberry to get fruit.

Honeyberries are long and deep blue.  They are well hidden by the foliage, growing under the leaves and so escape bird bites easier than other berries.  The taste is bland-sweet but they can be turned into jelly or eaten fresh. The plants are extremely hardy – to zone 3- and will grow in sun or partial shade in almost any soil.

I’ll explore more unusual plants next week.

Garden catalog and on line shopping tips

The catalogs should have been arriving at your home by now, if not last week’s newsletter had a list of catalogs you could ask for.  If you intend to buy from a catalog or on line now is the time to start shopping.  Many catalogs are offering discounts for early orders.  Besides getting a discount ordering early helps assure you get the plants you want. 


Many people fill out the order blanks in the print catalogs and then use them to place a fast on line order. Some garden stores will have varieties of plants available only on line or may offer special deals for on line shoppers so it pays to peruse the on line site before you place your order. 

There is one warning here.  Not all garden stores ship plants by who ordered first.  Some start shipping plants out to the first area that is suitable for planting, usually southern zones.  By the time its warm enough for shipping to your zone, a plant that you ordered in January may be out of stock.  Many garden stores don’t charge your credit card until the item ships, so they don’t worry about having to give refunds.  If you really, really want a plant that might be in short supply contact the company and ask if you purchase it while it’s still in stock if you will be guaranteed to get it.

Another thing to check is whether the company can substitute a variety in stock for one you ordered that goes out of stock.  Most sellers will ask if that’s ok and some even let you put in a second choice.  But some garden stores have that clause in small print and it’s the default unless you opt out.  If you would be unhappy with a substitute for something you ordered check the  order form carefully before mailing in your order or checking out on line.

For best results, try to order from catalogs and on-line stores that are growing their plants in the same growing zone you are in.  Look for garden stores that provide some sort of guarantee, at least a safe shipping guarantee. Catalogs should also give cultural tips. They should also list plant height, width, light and moisture requirements, bloom color and time.

What’s in a name?
Good seed and nursery catalogs furnish the Latin name of the plants they sell for all but the most common plants.  That’s because common names can be confusing.  People may think that butterfly plant is milkweed or Asclepias or you may think you are buying buddleia. And there are even more species that have butterfly in their common names.  Sometimes giving a plant normally known by its scientific name a fancy sounding common name will lead people to believe they are discovering something new.   Pay attention to the scientific name of what you want to buy, even if it’s in small print.  

Don’t think that the term new means that the plant you are looking at in a catalog is actually new in the plant trade.  It could be, but usually that term means it is new to that catalog and is often sprinkled liberally throughout the catalog. 

Another confusing trend in the plant trade is to re-name old plants whose names are no longer trademarked.  Take Blaze rose, an old timer that is sometimes renamed with exotic names like Crimson Kiss.  While Blaze rose may seem ho hum to you, Crimson Kiss piques your interest.  Sometimes if you read the fine print the old name may be mentioned, but there’s not much you can do if it’s not.  Reputable, established companies are less likely to fool you with things like this.

Color terms and especially color pictures are often deceptive.  There are no true blue roses or daylilies.  Many other colors described as blue are also shades of lavender or purple.  Peach is often really orange and some white flowers are actually pale yellow. Compare the color descriptions of a certain variety you like in several catalogs to get a better “picture” of the true color.

Fragrant is also a misused term.  It can be fragrant and not smell very good! It can be the foliage that’s fragrant or the flowers.  For example marigold foliage has a very distinctive scent, which you may or may not like.  But the flowers are not fragrant.

When looking at close-ups of flowers, check the plant description to see if the size of the flower is mentioned.  Some very tiny flowers are shown enlarged in catalogs but in the garden are barely visible.


Comparing costs

Compare prices in catalogs but make sure you are comparing apples to apples.   Check to see if the plant you are comparing is being offered bare root or potted.  Bare root plants are generally cheaper than potted ones, but some plants survive shipping better in pots. If potted, what size pot is offered?  If the plant offered is sold as a bulb, how big in circumference is it?  How many years old are trees and shrubs? Larger, older and better branched plants, bigger bulbs and larger sized pots usually sell for more.  

Saying a plant is number one size or grade is not very helpful if that seller determines the grade.   However some plants have standardized measurements across the nursery trade that determine grade.  Most common bulbs are graded by size and roses have standardized grades also.  Pot sizes are pretty standard too, and can be offered by volume, such as quart or gallon or by width, such as 4 inch or 10 inch pots.

The newer the plant is on the market the more it generally costs.  If you can wait a few years the price will come down and there will be more information available on the plant’s hardiness and growth pattern.  Often there is little difference to the eye to any but the most experienced plant collector between a new variety and an older, less expensive one.  If you like the colors of a new daylily for example but its $50 a rhizome, check the catalog for a very similar looking older variety that might sell for $10.

Buying generic plants can save you money.  Instead of buying named hostas or daylilies for example, buy a “pastel assortment” or “assorted sizes and colors” hosta bundles.  When offered by well-known, reputable nurseries these collections by color or size can be a great way to get quality plants at a good price.  Also unnamed new varieties of things like iris, daylilies etc. can give you interesting plants at a good price.

Don’t forget to add shipping and handling costs to your price comparison.  This can vary widely from nursery to nursery.  Don’t use the number of free gifts to base your decision on.  Most free gifts are junk and not worth very much.

Package gardens and collections

While some catalogs do a good job of putting together package gardens, (various plants all color coordinated and selected to do well together), beware of some of these package garden deals.  Make sure the description lists the numbers of each plant or bulb and the sizes or grades of those plants.  It sounds wonderful to get a complete perennial bed for only $12.95 plus shipping - 50 plants guaranteed, until you see the 7 x11 manila envelope with 50 tiny dried up sticks and bulbs in it.

Collections can be a good deal – often the catalog will read “one each of all the plants on this page for x amount” usually a sharp discount per plant.  But do you need and want all the varieties?  Would you be better off just to pick one or two varieties?

Collections that offer assorted varieties of something like hosta may be just fine if you simply want to fill up a shady spot.  But pay attention to the size of the plants offered and then check to see what the price per plant is and compare it to individual plants offered elsewhere.  Unless otherwise stated these collections are generally older, common varieties of the species.

Package deals or collections that include a container are often quite a bit more expensive than deals with plants only.  You may want to check locally to see if a similar container can be found for less and just purchase plants by mail or on line.  Usually that option is offered.

Starting your catalog and on line garden shopping early gives you plenty of time to search out the best deals and the best plants.  So forget the snow outside and settle in for some serious garden shopping.

The damage from gm crops is that it increases the use of pesticides

More research on GM crops (Penn State and the Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture)  suggests once again that consuming the crops is safe – at least from the standpoint of the changes to the genes.  But what is noted that GM plants that are designed to be resistant to certain pesticides are then liberally exposed to such pesticides- and pesticides then often drift to wild plants.

Plants modified to be pesticide resistant then carry more pesticide residue – which is not good for us and when the pesticide drifts to flowering plants bees and other pollinators pick it up.  This leads to pollinator decline and more pesticide residue being introduced into our food supply.  The new GM plants are resistant to dicamba and 2,4-D, which are more harmful to us and bees than the old glyphosate, Round-Up.  Also these pesticides may decrease the flowering of crops or native species as well as the pollination of the remaining flowers, a double whammy.

Mosquitoes need more than blood to eat

You may want to consider what types of plants you plant around water features.  Research (Journal of Medical Entomology) shows that at least one kind of mosquito, the Tiger mosquito(Aedes albopictus), prefers to lay its eggs in containers of water near blooming plants rather than in water without flowers close.  This mosquito carries several human diseases, including chikungunya, a tropical disease spreading throughout the US. 

Mosquitoes need flower nectar to survive, as well as blood.  Male mosquitoes need only flower nectar, females need blood to produce eggs but also consume nectar. Young mosquitoes just emerging from water fare better if a sugar source (nectar)  is nearby. In the research mosquitoes were attracted to buddleia but researchers say other nectar producing flowers should be just as attractive.  And other research has shown that other species of mosquitoes are also drawn to flowering plants.

If you plant flowers near small water features the water should have fish in it to eat mosquito eggs and larvae.  You could also treat the water with Bt dunks to prevent mosquitoes – or dump and replace water twice a week.

Growing herbs indoors

If you are a cook you know that the best tasting herbs are fresh ones, plucked right from the plant just before using.  But if you live in a spot where herbs aren’t available in the garden during the winter your source of fresh herbs is limited to what you can purchase in a store - and those herbs are never the same as fresh picked.  The good news is that some herbs can be grown indoors during the winter either on a sunny window sill or under a grow light.


Not every herb is a candidate for indoor growing and the conditions in your home will sometimes limit what you can grow also.  If you have a cool (45-60F) but very sunny spot you will have success with many types of perennial herbs.  Other herbs, particularly annual ones, like warmer temperatures similar to the ones we are comfortable in. All common herbs need good strong light so if you don’t have a south facing window, (and it doesn’t have to be a kitchen window), you may need to supplement your light with a grow light.  A few herbs may grow fairly well on a west facing window sill.

Some herbs are perennials and they can be grown in pots that are set outside in the summer and returned to the house in the fall each year.  Most perennial herbs do best in the cooler, sunnier environment mentioned above.  They will rest during the winter for a few months but can still furnish you with fresh leaves for cooking.  A sunny unheated porch or sunroom or an unused room where the heat is turned down are excellent places for most perennial herbs.

If you don’t have a sunny window sill you can use a grow light to keep your herbs healthy.  It will need to be about 18 inches above the top of your herbs.  , others like warmer temperatures similar to the ones we are comfortable in.

Herb varieties for indoors

Chives are one of the easiest herbs to grow on a window sill.  They can do well on a south or west facing window sill.  Chives can be started from seed in late summer for indoors use or you can dig a clump from the garden in fall and pot it.  Chives are sometimes sold in pots in the produce section of stores too.  You can put chives outside in the summer in the pot or plant them in the ground. They are hardy perennials and can survive winter outside in most areas of the country.  Chives grow best in cool conditions but will do all right in warmer rooms.

Don’t over water chives inside; let them dry a bit between watering.  In March you can fertilize the pot of chives lightly to promote flowering.  You can snip the chive leaves off for cooking at any time but try to remove less than a third of the plant at a time.  Chive’s purple flowers are also edible.

Mustard and watercress are herbs that are sometimes grown to sprinkle on salads and other dishes for a tangy zip of taste.  Mustard and watercress are grown from seeds. The seeds can be mixed together or sown separately.  You harvest these plants while they are young and tender shoots so you need to make several sowings each winter.  Simply fill shallow trays with a good potting medium that has been well moistened, sprinkle on the seeds and press down lightly so they have contact with the soil.  Cover the tray with a plastic bag and place it in a warm spot until the plants sprout.  After the seeds sprout remove the bag and put the trays in a sunny window or under grow lights.

Mustard and watercress prefer cooler, sunny areas.  Keep them moist but not sitting in water.  Trim or pinch off leaves when the plants have several sets of them.  You can also pull the whole plant and trim off the roots before using.  Start a new batch of seeds about 2 weeks after the first one sprouted so you will have a continuous supply.  Discard the first batch as the new one gets ready to harvest.  These plants do not do well indoors as they get larger and can’t be transplanted outside with good results.

Rosemary is a delightful evergreen, perennial herb. In planting zones 6 and higher it is hardy outside in the garden through the winter.  In some mild dry winter climates you could harvest it from the garden all winter.  However for those gardeners who live in zone 5 and lower and those who have snowy wet winters you will need to pot a plant and bring it inside for the winter. Rosemary is often sold around Christmas in pots sheared to look like a small evergreen tree.

Rosemary needs a cool, sunny place to do well indoors.  Let it dry out between watering.  You can place the pots outside in the summer and keep your plant for many years.  It will often bloom indoors in late spring or even in the fall just after you bring it in.  Repot the plant each spring before you put it in the garden, give a light dose of fertilizer and watch it get bigger each year.

Snip or pinch off young leave tips from your rosemary and never remove more than a few sprigs at a time.  Rosemary is used to flavor meat dishes, soups and stews and sprinkled on bread dough before baking.

Thyme is another perennial herb that can be grown in a pot in a cool, sunny area inside for winter harvests and placed back in the garden each spring.   Make sure to get a culinary type of thyme, there are dozens of ornamental varieties.  Let it dry between watering and keep it trimmed fairly short inside.  Harvest young leaves or whole tender shoots.  Thyme is used on meats and in soups and stews.
Thyme

Bay and lemon verbena are tender perennials that form shrubs or small trees in warm climates.  In cold climates, planting zones 8 and lower, they need to be potted and placed outside only after the danger of frost has passed.  These two make pretty houseplants and prefer warmer, sunny rooms.  Leaves are plucked off and used as needed.

Basil is sometimes grown inside. However it is somewhat finicky and prone to disease.  It is started from seed.   It likes warm, sunny conditions and should be kept evenly moist. 

Parsley also does better outside but may do fairly well in a cool, sunny place inside.  It is slow to germinate so start seeds in late summer in pots for indoor use.  Discard these plants in the spring.

Sage and oregano have been grown in the house but don’t always do well.   They need a cool but sunny spot and to dry out between watering.  Make sure to get culinary (cooking) types of sage or oregano.  Start with small seedling plants in the fall.  You can transplant these into the garden in the spring but start with new young plants every fall for indoor use as younger plants adjust better to indoor conditions.

Mints of various flavors will grow satisfactorily in the house.  As with sage and oregano start with young potted plants each fall.  They can be grown in hanging baskets.  Cool, sunny conditions are best and keep them pruned or pinched back to prevent them from getting straggly.  Let them dry between watering.  They can be transplanted to the garden in the spring.

If you have other herbs that you favor in cooking you can always try to grow them inside.  Even if they survive only part of the winter you will have extended your fresh herb availability.  Some medicinal herbs, such as catnip and chamomile can also be grown inside but results vary as many of these prefer a cold winter rest.

It’s a good day for cocoa and popcorn
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

Free seeds
I have these seeds that I collected from my garden that I am willing to share free.  Look at the list and if you would like some contact me at kimwillis151@gmail.com

I will tell you where to send a stamped self-addressed envelope for the seeds. If you want popcorn or black walnuts it will take several stamps.  I have published this list on the seed swap sites also.  I’ll try to give everyone who asks some until they are gone.

Lilies, a seed mixture of assorted hybrids, oriental- Asiatic- trumpet- Casa Blanca, Stargazer, La Reve, purple tree, yellow tree, Silk Road, more
Anise hyssop
Morning glory – common purple
Scarlet runner bean - few
Japanese hull-less popcorn
Hosta asst.of seed from numerous varieties- lots
Ligularia desmonda (daisy–like flower)
Ligularia rocket – spires of flowers
Yucca
Glad mixed
Zinnia mixed
Foxglove Dalmation peach
Calendula mixed
Baptisia blue
Jewelweed
Cleome white
Columbine mixed- small amount
Nicotiana small bedding type- mixed colors
Nicotiana sylvestris (woodland tobacco, Only the Lonely)
Daylily mixed
Kangaroo Paws orange
Hollyhock mixed
Black walnut- few hulled nuts

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area

New-Seven Ponds Winter Fest Saturday, January 30, 10:00 am - 3:00 pm

Join us for our annual winter fun day. Included is a bonfire on the ice, ice cutting, mammal tracking, snowshoe walks, cross country skiing, and ice skating. Inside will be children’s crafts and bring a t-shirt, sweatshirt, or pillowcase to decorate with animal tracks. Programs on winter animals and ice cutting will also be offered. Includes a campfire lunch of a hot dog, chips, and hot chocolate too! Bring your own skates and cross country skis or try out the center’s snowshoes. In case of snow and/or ice shortage, alternate activities will be planned. The Stingers will hold a bake sale and a used book sale. Please sign in and get stamped upon arrival. Fee: $3.00 per non-member and free for members. Groups are welcome with advance registration (by January 24) by calling the nature center. Address: 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, MI 48428 Phone:(810) 796-3200

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/

New-Grand Rapids Smart Gardening Conference 2016, March 5, 2016, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. DeVos Place, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Several speakers on native plants, low impact/care gardening, pollinators.  More info-
                                                   
Cost: Early Bird Registration by Feb. 15, 2016 - $60, Late Registration - $70 Enrollment deadline is Friday, Feb. 26, 2016 or until full. Registration at the door is not available.

Contact: Diane Brady, bradydi1@anr.msu.edu, 616-632-786


New- Great Lakes Hosta College, March 18-19, 2016, Upper Valley Career Center in Piqua, Ohio.
Students attend 5 classes they have chosen from a program of over 70 classes taught by a faculty of approximately 50 volunteers. Mid-day each student has lunch from a delicious buffet included in the registration fee. At the end of the day students take a brief break and then return for a banquet and talk that concludes the Hosta College experience.

The vending area offers a large selection of plants (even though it may be snowing outside!), garden accessories, tools, and other garden-related merchandise for shoppers. The Bookstore features gardening books at fantastic discounts, stationery, society clothing items, and other Hosta College souvenirs. Persons who belong to one of the local societies with membership in the Great Lakes Region receive preferential registration and a reduced registration fee.  $42 registration fee for members, $55 registration fee for non-members.

To register or get class list go to http://www.ihostohio.org/portal/glhc/college.asp

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 Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch. 

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


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