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Tuesday, August 11, 2015

August 11, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

August 11, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners

I hope you had good rain yesterday, but not too much as some areas around Lansing got.  We got about a half inch.  I haven’t had to do much watering in the last couple weeks, just a few pots and baskets that dry out quickly. 

The garden is starting to show signs of late maturity.  We are getting lots of tomatoes although the vines are deteriorating quickly from fungal diseases.  Our sweet corn is ripe – we have been feasting.  This year I planted a variety called “Got to Have It” from Gurneys.  Its bi-color and very sweet, with long slender ears but I feel its lacking a bit in “corn” flavor.  It’s still good though, much better than supermarket corn.

The last wave of flowers is just beginning to open.  Mums, hardy hibiscus, Rose of Sharon, goldenrod, asters, Sweet Autumn clematis, ligularia, woodland tobacco, dahlias and Autumn Joy sedum are some of my performers.  Some annuals are looking a bit tired; I have fertilized and trimmed some back hoping for a fall revival.  Phlox is blooming lavishly this year.  It got very tall and a lot of stems fell over so those stems were cut and plucked into a bucket on the porch,  an outside bouget.  I am going to aggressively thin out my phlox this fall and next spring if anyone is interested in plants.

Another plant that out did itself this year is the cleome.  Mine came from seed dropped last year and it seeded itself all over.  I removed lots of plants but my dahlias are still being hidden by them.  Some came up in a pot of rain lilies and I haven’t seen those bloom all year without parting the sea of white cleome.  And there’s no doubt they are making plenty of seed this year.

Eucomis Sparkling Burgandy
Some petunias came up in the pot of the braided hibiscus plant I have on my deck.  Since I have no petunias near that pot this year the seed came from last year.  They are just getting ready to bloom and it will be interesting to see what color I have.  The species petunia- petunia exserta, I bought this spring has proved to be a powerhouse of a bloomer and I am hoping to save some seeds from it.  Its blooms are tiny and star shaped but bright red and hummingbirds like them.  I also have an unusual red penta that has just began blooming.  Another garden star this year is the Eucomis Sparkling Burgundy.

How do you know when it’s ready to harvest?

New gardeners and old gardeners growing something for the first time often wonder when the food crop they are growing is ready to harvest.  After all when you go through the labor and time to produce your own food you want to pick it when it’s at its absolute best taste and nutrition.  While experience will eventually help you decide when to harvest here are some tips to help you decide if some food crops are ready to eat.

Tomatoes
Tomatoes are the most frequently grown garden food plant.  Tomatoes help you determine when they are ready to pick by changing color.  Not all tomatoes turn red however, some turn orange, pink, black, yellow, or combinations of colors. Some even stay green, although there is generally a difference in the shade of green when ripe.  Know what variety you planted!  Pick those tomatoes when they are the right color and slightly soft.   If a tomato falls off before it’s completely ripe or a heavy frost is on the way don’t worry.  Tomatoes will continue to ripen off the vine, even though the taste is better if they are left to ripen in the sun.  Don’t let tomatoes get too ripe, when they get really soft and may even split or leak fluids.

Pick all the ripe tomatoes off a plant, even if you can’t use them.  Picking them keeps the plant producing and lessens the chance of disease from rotting fruits. Pick off those that have spots, cracks, rotted areas and so on.  Compost unwanted fruits or give them to animals like chickens or if you just have too many nice tomatoes and don’t want to can or freeze them donate them to a neighbor, senior center or soup kitchen.

Once you get them in the house don’t refrigerate tomatoes- this ruins the taste and actually makes them spoil faster.  Store them unwashed- wash them right before use.  Store tomatoes that need to ripen a bit in a bright location but out of direct sun.  Store ripe tomatoes in a darker location.

Peppers
Peppers vary tremendously in size, shape and color.  Most can be eaten at almost any stage.  For sweet bell peppers you can harvest them when they are large, but still green or let them ripen to red, yellow or orange.  Hot peppers will be at their hottest at maturity.  Read the variety description to know what the “ripe” color is.  As with most garden plants, keep the peppers picked to keep them producing.  Once you pick them store them in a cool, but not refrigerated place.  Wash just before use.  Peppers can be cut up and frozen, dried, pickled or canned to preserve them.

Eggplant
Eggplants are much the same as tomatoes and peppers- when they are mature they generally change color.  All eggplants are not purple when mature however, there are varieties that are orange, yellow, white and other colors.  Pick eggplants when the mature color is reached.  Like tomatoes eggplants should be stored at room temperature.  

Cucumbers
The aim in harvesting cucumbers is to pick them when they are young and small for the best flavor, thin skin and keeping qualities. Different varieties of cukes have different shapes when mature.  Some are long and slender, some short and plump. The long ones are better for fresh eating but any cuke can be eaten fresh at a young age. Even cucumbers designed to be pickles should be picked while they are still young and small.  Most cucumbers will be green at this correct eating stage although novelty cucumbers that are white or yellow when young exist.  When most cucumbers start turning yellow however, they are getting past the best eating and pickling stage. 

Pick all cucumbers off the vine before they turn completely yellow to keep the vines producing. You can store cucumbers refrigerated or unrefrigerated for several days.

Cabbage
Cabbage is ready to harvest when a tight firm head has formed.  You’ll want to harvest these heads before they split, which left in the garden too long they will do.  If a split head is harvested immediately it is fine to eat, but after a few days a split head will spoil and be filled with bugs.  If you aren’t ready to harvest your cabbage and want to keep them in the garden a bit longer, give each plant a half turn to break some of the roots.  This can delay splitting for a few more days. 

To store cabbage you can pull the whole plant and hang them upside down in a cool dark place.  This is how cabbage was stored through the winter in earlier times but few people have the right conditions for this. Heads may sit for a week or two in a cool place without being washed or having the outer leaves stripped off. Or strip off some of the outer leaves and wrap the head tightly in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator crisper or other cool place. 

Lettuce/greens
Greens should be picked when they are big enough to eat but before the plant starts sending up a tall, flowering stalk.  Once greens bolt or go to seed, they turn bitter.  This usually happens as the weather gets hot.  You can remove all or part of a lettuce plant (except heading types).  Wash greens and store refrigerated after they air dry.  Lettuce that looks wilty as you harvest it can be soaked in a bowl of cold water in the refrig. for an hour or so and it may revive and crisp up.  There’s no real way to store leafy greens for very long.

Green beans/ lima beans/ wax beans
For the best tasting, tender green beans pick the beans when the pods are small and the “bumps” inside barely noticeable.  Keep beans picked off the plant before they get too large and the pods begin turning yellow as this keeps the plants producing new beans. Don’t wash until just before cooking.   Beans can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days before use.  Can or freeze them if they can’t be used in a few days.

Radishes, beets
Harvest these when they are still small.  As they get older they get woody or pithy.  Radishes can be round or long like carrots.  The color of beets and radishes doesn’t change much as they mature.  You’ll be pulling up the whole plant.  Wash the roots, trim the leaves back to about half and store refrigerated if you aren’t going to use them immediately.

Carrots
You can pull carrots when they are small, about the size of a pencil or let them get larger.  Some carrots will be a bit woody as they get larger but most will still have good flavor. Carrots can even be heavily mulched and left in the ground to harvest in late fall and winter.  If carrots are going to be stored for any length of time, trim off most of the leaves and leave them unwashed until just before use. Store carrots in a cool, moist place.  A few can be wrapped in a moist paper towel and stored in the crisper of the refrigerator.

Squash/pumpkins
There are two types of squash, summer squash which includes zucchini and winter, which includes Hubbard, acorn and other types.  Summer squash are harvested when they are young and the skin is still thin.  When they get large and mature they have a lot of seeds and are tough and not flavorful.  Some summer squash are green when young and change color as they mature.  But some like the patty pans are the same color when young or mature and this can be white or yellow or even other colors.  Summer squash types don’t store for long and should be stored in a cool place.

Winter squash are meant to mature before eating.  They usually start out green and can be a variety of colors when mature.  You want them to have a firm, thick skin.  Pumpkins are winter squash.  You’ll want them to be fully colored before you pick them as squash do not color up much more after picking.  Harvest all winter squash and pumpkins before a hard freeze or they will rot.  Some squash will taste fine if not quite mature, but the still really immature ones should probably be put in the compost if you have to pick them early.    Store your pumpkins and winter squash in a warm, (room temperature), dark place for long term storage.

Melons
Melons includes cantaloupe, honeydews, watermelon and some other varieties.  Melons are one of the harder things to judge when they are ready to harvest and an unripe melon just doesn’t taste very good. Melons don’t continue to ripen after they are picked.  An overripe melon is equally awful.  As you grow melons year after year you will get adept at recognizing ripeness but until then count on a few mistakes.

Cantaloupe doesn’t develop the netting on the surface until late in development.  They may look green and smooth at an earlier stage.  Other melons may also change appearance as they mature. A few melons have been developed to change color when mature so they are easier to pick at the right time.  Study the descriptions of melon varieties so you know what to expect and mark the variety in the garden.  Garden experts get many questions about what type of melon is growing in another gardener’s garden each year as people try to figure out what the odd looking fruits are.

Most melons when mature develop a yellow spot where the melon rests on the ground.  The tendril on the end opposite the stem should be dried up or absent.  Some melons will easily slide off the vine when mature but this isn’t a reliable test as some ripe melons will need to be pulled or cut off.  If a melon begins to crack its generally ripe- on the verge of over ripeness, although excessive rain may cause some unripe melons to crack too.  It’s ok to eat cracked melons if insects or animals haven’t beat you to it.

You can thump the melon but it takes experience to recognize the hollow sound of a ripe melon.  Smelling muskmelon, cantaloupe and honeydew can be a good test; a ripe melon can be smelled without cutting it.  That’s the way chickens and other animals recognize ripe melons and extra interest in your melon patch means the melons are ripening.

Old-timers often use the plug test on watermelon.  When you think a watermelon looks ripe take a pocket knife and cut a small plug out of the melon and examine it.  Cut a bit off the end and taste it.  If the melon isn’t ripe you can put the plug back in and wait a few days.  The same plug won’t be a reliable indicator for a second test though.

Potatoes
Potatoes can be harvested starting about 2 weeks after they bloomed, for new potatoes.  You can dig down and harvest just a few baby potatoes, leaving the plant or dig up one plant in your patch. You can harvest any time the tubers are the size you like.  When the tops of potatoes have wilted and died, the crop is mature and can be dug, as the tubers will not grow any larger.  If the weather is dry and pests aren’t a problem you can leave the potatoes for a while in the ground.  Harvest before a hard freeze or harvest as soon as mature if the soil tends to get soggy for long periods. If a hard freeze is predicated and your tops haven’t died yet the potatoes can still be harvested. 

Let potatoes that you intend to store for a while sit spread out in a warm, dark spot for a day or two to cure.  Then brush off the dirt and store in a cool, dark place.  Don’t wash until used.  Don’t refrigerate potatoes for storage- the starch will turn to sugar and give them an off taste.

Sweet Corn
Sweet corn is ready to harvest when the ears feel plump and the corn silk looks brown and dry.  You can peel a little husk back and poke your fingernail into a corn kernel.  If a clear fluid squirts out it’s not quite ripe.  If a milky fluid comes out it’s at the perfect stage.  If no fluid comes out it’s probably starting to get tough and is past the best eating stage.

Corn will hold on the stalk for a few days and ears will ripen over several days to 2 weeks in any patch of corn.  Try not to harvest corn until right before you are going to cook it for the best taste.  If the corn patch is producing more than you can eat each day give some away, can or freeze it.  Next year plant small patches of corn at two week intervals so it won’t ripen all at once. 

To hold sweet corn for a few days leave it in the husk, keep it moist and refrigerated.  Corn loses flavor each day it is stored as you will realize the first time you have your own corn picked just before it’s cooked.

Onions
Like many crops onions are ready to eat at many stages.  For green onions pull the plants when the stems are the size of a pencil.  Let the rest mature until you like the size they are or need an onion.  Onions need to be kept from going to seed or the bulb will stop growing.  When the leaves get tall and start to thicken at the base bend them over.  This helps them put energy into bulb production and not flowering.

If onion tops have died down and dried the bulb isn’t going to get any bigger so they should be dug and stored.  If the weather is dry you can leave them in the ground for a while before harvesting if you need to.   After harvesting let them dry in the sun for a day or two, then remove the tops. Don’t wash them until just before use and leave the outer papery skin on.  Store onions in a dark, dry place above 40 degrees.  Some types of onions, usually the sweet types don’t store well whole.  Those are best chopped and frozen for storage.

Marijuana use by youth does not increase mental illness or health problems

When people speak against the recreational use of marijuana they often state that young people who smoke it experience more mental health problems or have more health issues.  But the results of a long term study of 408 young men by the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center and Rutgers University found no such links between marijuana use and health problems. 

The Pittsburgh Youth Study tracked young men from age 14 to age 36 and semi-annually interviewed and evaluated them.  The group was about evenly split between white and non- white participants.  The study results were published in Psychology of Addictive Behaviors.  The study concluded that there was no difference between those who frequently smoked marijuana beginning at a young age and those who never or rarely smoked marijuana in the areas of psychotic behavior, depression, anxiety disorders, high blood pressure, asthma, respiratory problems, cancer, or allergies.  In short – they found that marihuana use by young people did not impact their mental or physical health.  So much for the old wives tales and “suggested” links.  Here’s the journal reference for sceptics;  Jordan Bechtold, Theresa Simpson, Helene R. White, Dustin Pardini. Chronic Adolescent Marijuana Use as a Risk Factor for Physical and Mental Health Problems in Young Adult Men.. Psychology of Addictive Behaviors, 2015; DOI: 10.1037/adb0000103

LED lights in the greenhouse

Researchers at Purdue University, found that plants grown in greenhouses in the north often did not get enough light in greenhouses in late winter- early spring.  They published a study in the May 2015 issue of HortScience  where they compared the growth of  seedlings of French marigold, geranium, impatiens, petunia, and vinca under natural light, natural light plus light from LED lights and no natural light, only LED light in growth chambers.

The study found that plants grown with supplemental LED lighting grew better than those in just natural light and that plants grown in growth chambers using just LED lights grew just as well as those with a combination of supplemental and natural light.  They found that plants grown with either supplemental LED light or just LED lighting were more compact and sturdy than plants grown under natural light in early spring, particularly if the light leaned a bit toward the blue spectrum.

While not cheap to purchase LED grow lights last a long time and consume little energy leading to a cost savings against other forms of supplemental light.  And since the lights release little heat the plants in an LED light chamber set up can be stacked to save space.  If you start plants inside your home or a small greenhouse in early spring you may want to consider using LED grow lights.  You may also want to consider them if you like to grow blooming plants inside in winter , when natural light in even the best southern exposure window can be in adequate. 

Eupatoriums- Snakeroot and Joe Pye Weed

If you are a native plant lover or just need more color in the fall garden then some of the exciting Eupatoriums may be just what you need.  Joe Pye Weed and Snakeroot, also called Boneset, are native Eupatoriums.  Eupatoriums are late summer and fall blooming plants that can brighten dull beds and provide food for butterflies and bees.  They are tough native plants adaptable to many types of soil and growing conditions.

Both Joe Pye Weed and Snakeroot are excellent for naturalized gardens in semi-shady areas, the edges of bogs and rain gardens, and in butterfly gardens.  The compact, stocky varieties of Joe Pye Weed are also excellent in the back of perennial borders for fall color. Both Joe Pye Weed and Snakeroot make excellent cut flowers. The foliage of chocolate Snakeroot can be an excellent color contrast in shaded beds.
Joe Pye weed

The leaves of Joe Pye Weed are arranged in whorls around the stem.  The leaves are dark green, long and toothed.  The stems sometimes have a purplish red tint.  Joe Pye Weed has clusters of feathery purple- red flowers on long stems at the top of the plant beginning in late summer.  The flowers resemble Ageratum flowers, which Joe Pye Weed is related to.   Joe Pye Weed plants range from 2-6 foot in height, depending on variety.

The leaves of Snakeroot or Boneset are dark green or purple- brown depending on variety.  They are similar to Joe Pye Weed leaves except they are arranged opposite each other on the stem.  The two opposite leaves appear to be joined at the base, with the stem running through them. Snakeroot has flowers that are white and the clusters are little less dense and more airy in appearance than Joe Pye Weed.  The flowers have a light, pleasant scent.   Snakeroot plants average about 3-4 feet in height.  The names Boneset and Snakeroot refer to medicinal qualities the plant is supposed to have.  The whole plant is poisonous, however and modern herbals rarely refer to it.

There are two other Eupatoriums sometimes seen in gardens.  Texas Ageratum has blue flower clusters and light green leaves.  Agrimony or Hemp Agrimony has mauve flower clusters and is a native of Siberia.

Growing Joe Pye Weed and Snakeroot

Gardeners will generally begin with plants.  Seed can sometimes be found in native seed catalogs, but will be from unimproved varieties.  If you buy or collect seed from wild plants it would be best to sow it where you want it to grow in the fall.  The seed requires 8-10 weeks of cold, moist conditions before it will germinate.

Both Joe Pye Weed and Snakeroot will grow in zones 5-8 and maybe in zone 4 with protection.  They prefer moist soil and partly shady conditions.   Both will take more sun in the north if kept well- watered.  Joe Pye Weed and Snakeroot will also adjust to drier conditions if kept well-watered while getting established.  For best bloom however, Snakeroot and Joe Pye Weed should be watered generously.  Taller varieties of Joe Pye Weed may need to be staked when they begin to flower. If the soil is at least moderately fertile they do not require additional fertilization.  The plants are herbaceous and die to the ground each winter.

Joe Pye Weed forms large clumps and can be divided in early spring every 2-3 years.   It is moderately invasive if conditions suit it.  Snakeroot will re-seed quite freely if conditions are suitable and plants should be deadheaded before the seeds mature if seedlings are not wanted.

Choosing Varieties

‘Gateway’ is the tallest of the Joe Pye Weeds.  ‘Little Joe’ is shorter, 3-4 foot and compact.  ‘Little Red’ is slightly shorter and the stems are deeper red. ‘Chocolate’ is a variety of Snakeroot with chocolate toned leaves, and white flowers with red stems.  The chocolate color is better when plants are grown in part shade.

All plant parts of Joe Pye Weed and Snakeroot are considered to be poisonous.  Any herbal remedies that call for using Joe Pye Weed or Snakeroot [Boneset] should be approached very cautiously.

Bats and August

In August there is always an increase in people reporting bats in their house.  This is because baby Brown bats, the most common bat in Michigan, are learning to fly about this time.  Like all youngsters they get lost and do stupid things, like crawl through a crack to explore a new place.   They don’t want to get in your hair or bite your neck.  They just want out!

Usually if more than one bat is found in a home it means there may be a colony of female bats living in or near your home.   Until August, each female bat is likely to have one baby bat with her.  When they fly out to feed at night they leave these babies behind.   You may hear noises and scrambling around as the females leave.   By mid- August, most baby bats will leave each night with mom.   You don’t want to seal up holes the bats are using until this time.   Even if you don’t care that the baby bats will die without their mothers, they will cause quite a smell and attract insects if they die.  Male bats are solitary or gather in small groups of 2 or 3.

If a bat suddenly appears flying through a room, open a window or door, darken the room and be quiet or leave.   If you are not screaming and jumping around, the bat will generally sense the air current from the open window or door and leave.   You can leave enough light that you can see, like the light from a night light,  but bright lights generally make the bat want to find a place to hide.  If it doesn’t fly out you may be able to scoop it up in something and throw it out.    Do not handle a bat with your bare hands.  If you do manage to get bitten in the process you must not release the bat.  You will need to keep it for rabies testing.   Contact your local animal control office or health department to find out how to submit the bat for testing.

Bat control
Bats in the house are no laughing matter for most folks.  They cause panic and great concern.  While no one should panic, bats should never be tolerated living in a home with humans, even if they are in spots where people seldom go. They need to be removed from human homes for health and safety reasons just as we remove rats and mice.  Every year in Michigan bats are found that test positive for rabies and almost every year people in Michigan who were in contact with rabid bats have to have preventative rabies vaccines. 

Besides the treat of rabies, bats carry parasites like lice and bat bugs, (similar to bed bugs), the dust from their excrement can cause lung disease, and their excrement can build up until it damages the building and the smell becomes over whelming.  The urine and excrement can damage wiring and cause fires.  Large colonies can be quite noisy at night.

There is no law that prevents you from killing bats when they are in your home, but since they are beneficial creatures that are becoming increasingly endangered, their lives should be spared if possible. Ultra sonic devices, mothballs, and poisons for rats and mice do not work on bats.  Bright lights hung in bat roosting areas at night are seldom effective with established colonies either. 

Try to remove bats alive or exclude them from the space after they have left in the evening to feed.  The best way to remove bats is by exclusion.  Do this after August when all babies should be out at night with the adults, until about mid-May.  Exclusion means locating all the places bats are coming and going from and sealing them off when the bats are outside feeding at night.   You can stand outside, maybe with the help of friends and count how many bats are leaving just after sunset and see where they are leaving from.  After a few days of watching and locating holes the holes should be sealed after the bats have left for the night.  Bats can go through any size hole a mouse could go through, a 1/2 inch crack is all they need. 

If it is going to be hard for you to do the sealing work yourself there are companies specializing in bat removal.  They often use traps that allow bats to leave but not come back in after sealing all the other holes during daylight hours.  You can do this too; devices can be purchased on line and in some stores.  After a week or so of using excluder devices all the bats should be gone and the excluder site can be sealed. 

Here’s wishing you a bountiful harvest and no bats in the belfry
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

An interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area


Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch.  Now open.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580

Exhibitors/demonstrators wanted

Seven Ponds Nature Center ( Dryden Mi.) Heritage Harvest Days, scheduled for September 19 and 20 is looking for additional artists and crafters who can demonstrate, display, and sell their work, especially that related to nature.  All exhibitors receive free admission to the event, as well as free lunch on one day of the festival. Please contact the center at 810-796-3200 if you would like to set up a booth or exhibit this year.

Change of the Season – A Guided Nature Walk, Monday, August 17, 2015     9:30AM to 11:30AM
Take a  tour of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary, a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Entrance and parking is located directly across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan.

Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides. Dress for the weather. Donations accepted. Please call 810-969-1023 at least 1 day prior to the event date to reserve your spot! For all programs children 17 and younger must be accompanied by a registered adult. Please park in the designated parking areas! Thank You!

Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


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