June 23,
2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
Hello Gardeners
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| Evening primrose. |
I am grateful
that we were spared the worst of the storms last night. But about 10 miles north
of us a large dairy farm (DeVor Dairy) was hit by a tornado and the damage is
horrific. I am told there are hundreds
of roaming and confused cows, with maybe 40 cows from the 3,500 they had dead. They are asking for other dairy farms to
house some cows and for experienced cow people to help them with the round up,
confine, and milk cows. However no
contact info is being given that I can find- the farm is at 3157 Decker road,
Decker MI.
It was a
scary night and throughout Michigan people are dealing with messes left by the
storms. If you had tree damage trim off
the damaged limbs neatly. Don’t use tree
paint on the stubs unless the tree is an oak.
Any latex paint can be used to seal the stubs of oak trees and prevent
beetles from feeding on them that spread oak wilt disease. On other trees it’s better to leave the paint
off as it seals in moisture and can result in wood rot. If a tree is split down the trunk it probably
should be cut down. If your tree was hit
by lightning it may or may not live. You
can give it some time to see if it recovers before removing it.
In more
cheerful news I harvested two ripe tomatoes yesterday, which will be used in a
salad today. I can’t wait. I start with one good sized Early Girl tomato
plant each year so I can get some early fruit.
I have young fruits on the rest of my plants too. We will harvest snap peas and lettuce this
week too. We have some cherries to
harvest and the birds are harvesting the mulberries.
The
hydrangeas are beginning to bloom, along with oriental lilies, daylilies, Shasta
daisies helenium, ladies bells, evening primrose, borage, and cardinal
flower. My canna in the new little pond
is blooming and so is my Meyer lemon tree- (not in the pond). Maybe since its
outside where it can be pollinated I’ll get lemons this year. Wild roses and elderberries are blooming
along the roads.
To Mulch or not to Mulch, that is the
question
Mulching a
garden, especially with bark chips, is a trend that has developed relatively
recently in gardening. A hundred years
ago few ornamental gardens used mulch except to protect plants over the
winter. Even 50 years ago mulch was
generally something like straw placed on the rows in vegetable gardens. Now one seldom sees a public landscape
without mulch around some plant or another.
Most homeowners now buy mulch every year to place around trees and
flower beds and garden mulch is a multi-million dollar business. But is mulch really necessary or good for all
garden areas?
Many serious
ornamental gardeners believe mulch is over used. Mulch does have its place of course. It is good to mulch around trees and larger
shrubs if they are in a lawn because it keeps someone from getting too close to
the trunks when mowing or weed whipping and damaging them. In this case the mulch should not touch the
trunks of trees or shrubs and should not be more than 3 inches deep. Mulch deeper than that may keep moisture and
air from getting to tree root systems.
And spread it evenly – nothing looks more amateurish than volcano like
mounds of mulch around trees. If your
trees are in a natural setting or set among groundcovers and smaller shrubs
they don’t need mulch.
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| Mulch on vegetable garden paths. |
Mulch is also
good on path areas, such as in vegetable gardens, where you don’t want
something like paving stones. It’s
environmentally friendly to use something that absorbs water on paths rather
than something that causes it to run off into storm drains or other areas. Organic mulches do break down and improve the
soil over time too. Even shredded rubber
and gravel mulches on paths allow water to percolate through them. Mulches help keep weeds down in paths but
unless you lay down landscape fabric before putting on the mulch you’ll have
weeds popping through. Even on landscape
fabric some weeds will start growing but they are easy to pull.
Mulching
around plants in the vegetable garden has advantages and disadvantages. In the spring you want the vegetable garden
soil to warm up and dry out so applying mulch then isn’t a great idea. Young plants heavily mulched in early spring
may be slow to grow. Applying mulch in
early summer, when the soil has warmed up, will help keep weeds down and keep
the soil from drying out as fast. It
can keep some crops cleaner. However if
your area is seeing a lot of rain and you have clay soil you may want to skip
the mulch so soil drainage is helped. Don’t
pile mulch too deeply as it may keep water from actually reaching the soil in
drier conditions. Three inches is a good
depth. Put the mulch down when the soil
is moist.
Use mulch
that decomposes quickly in vegetable gardens so it will improve your soil by
adding organic content. Straw, hay,
grass clippings, shredded leaves and finely shredded bark are better than large
wood chips. Since mulch uses up nitrogen
as it decomposes you will want to give your vegetable plants some nitrogen
fertilizer if you use mulch on them.
Sometimes
mulch in the vegetable garden can harbor slugs and snails, which damage plants
and it can even harbor pests like mice and voles, which may then cause snakes
to frequent the garden. Snakes are
harmless to humans 99.99 % of the time, but for some gardeners the idea of mice
or snakes in the garden will make them want to leave out the mulch.
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| Mulch in flower beds |
Mulching
around and in perennial flower beds is probably the most controversial mulch
application. When bare ground is showing
around perennials in early spring and weeds are growing rapidly gardeners are
tempted to improve things with mulch.
However many things should be considered before adding that mulch.
Just like in
the vegetable garden, mulch added early in spring can slow down the growth of
plants by keeping the soil cool and wet.
Once plants reach their mature size there will be less bare ground to
see and weeds may be smothered by heavy foliage in many cases. Add mulch later- in early summer- and just
pull weeds for a time in the spring and your plants may grow better and be
healthier. In the shade you may want to completely skip the mulch. It gives pests like slugs and snails a moist
place to hide and multiply and come out to destroy your plants. And like the vegetable garden it may conceal
other critters as well.
The type of
plants growing in your garden and your soil type can figure in when you are
deciding to use mulch or not. If you
have sandy soil and are trying to grow plants that need constant moisture then
mulch is probably a good idea. However
if you have clay soil and are trying to grow plants that like drier conditions,
such as most herbs, you would do well to leave off the mulch. And remember that while mulch can preserve
soil moisture, mulch that is too deep may keep plant roots from receiving any
water from light rains or irrigation.
Some flower
gardeners compromise and use a strip of mulch between the plants and the edge
of the garden and don’t mulch between plants.
This looks nice and still allows the soil to breathe and air out and
water to reach plant roots. However if
you have problems with slugs and snails eating your plants you may want to go
mulch free.
Mulch can be
helpful in protecting the crowns of certain perennials in the winter and in
keeping plants from freezing and thawing cycles that lift them from the ground.
(Some plants don’t like winter mulch – check your cultural suggestions.) In this case you should apply the mulch after
the plants have gone dormant, the dead leaves have been pruned off and the soil
is frozen or soon will be. You can apply
mulch generously then - 5-6 inches in depth.
Just make sure to gradually remove it from the plant crowns in early
spring.
While many
gardeners have been trained to think that gardens require mulch, they really
don’t, and in some cases adding mulch to the garden is actually
detrimental. Think of what your plants
need and require before giving in to the impulse to apply mulch as a “beauty
treatment”. That’s the sign of a great
gardener.
Displaying the flag this holiday
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| credit wikimedia commons |
With the
Fourth of July approaching many people like to decorate with the US flag and
decorations of red, white and blue to show their patriotism. But did you know
that there are laws on how to display the flag that should be followed? There
is a proper or legal way to display the flag or use it in decorations. There is
even a correct way to display red, white and blue bunting. In Michigan not
displaying the United States flag properly, desecrating or even talking
improperly about our flag, ( yes, defaming the flag is a crime) are considered
misdemeanors and you could be fined.
If you
accidentally make a mistake and use the flag incorrectly you probably won’t get
charged with anything. But you may annoy and dismay some neighbors and
passerby’s so flying the flag correctly is always a wise move. People can be
very passionate about our flag and you may get some complaints or angry
comments if you don’t use care displaying the flag. Here are some guidelines
for displaying the United States flag properly and not spoiling your party with
a political debate.
The United
States flag should be flown on its own pole and not combined with other flags. Never fly any flag above the United States
flag. It is always the highest flag in a
group of flags on poles or if all the poles are equal in height no other flag
should be to the right of the United States flag. It is all right for flags of
other nations to be flown at the same height as the US flag but not to the
right of it, the US flag is always the far right flag in any group. It is
considered correct to fly state, religious or organizational flags below the
level of the US flag. If it is higher, the US flag can be in the center or
other position in a group of flags.
The United
States flag is always flown with the “stars” up. A flag can be flown upside
down to signify that there is an emergency that requires immediate aid, as a
distress signal when there is no other way to summon aid.
A flag is
flown at the top of a pole or mast unless there is a government call for flags
to be flown at half mast, such as when a local serviceperson dies. The
exception is Memorial Day when the flag should be flown at half-mast until
noon, then raised to full mast.
Most flags
should only be flown in dry weather in the daylight hours. Special all weather flags can be left through
wet weather. If it is lighted a flag can
be flown through the night. Otherwise
flags should be taken down at night. Flags that are very dirty, tattered, or ripped
should be taken down.
A flag that
is hung against a building or suspended in the air should have the “stars” up
if hung vertically. If hung horizontally the “stars” should be to the viewers
left.
The bottom of
the flag should not touch the ground, a table, other decorations, etc. Flags
should not be draped or bunched up when displayed.
The flag
should not be used as a tablecloth or cover, awning, curtain, chair cover,
floor cover or for any other purpose. Clothing can have US flags on it if the flag
is depicted correctly but clothing should not be made of a flag. A t- shirt
with a properly depicted flag on it is fine but a skirt made out of a flag is
not. If that t-shirt had profanity on it or disrespected the flag in some other
way though, it would be considered an illegal use of the flag.
Things that
are used and disposed of, like napkins, cups, paper table cloths, and so on,
should not have flags on them. Because
most of these items are made in foreign countries and many retailers are
unaware of the law or don’t care, some of these things are sold for the
holidays every year. Please don’t buy them. Find items with red, white and blue
decorations other than the flag.
The flag
cannot be used to advertise things; nothing should be written or stamped on a
flag. This too, is often violated. A small flag on party invitations would be
ok, but to print the invitation on a picture of a flag would not be.
Advertising flags or signs should not be on the same pole as a United States
flag either. Don’t put a garage sale sign on a post with a US flag on top, for
example.
And that
bunting mentioned earlier? Bunting should be hung so the blue band is on top,
then white, then red. But that is something few friends and neighbors would
know or care about, so don’t worry if you slip up there.
And hey,
watch that complaining about the flag while you decorate. Michigan is one of
the few states that count talking disrespectfully about the flag as a
misdemeanor offense.
Calendula – old fashioned beauty for
the garden
Calendula is
an ancient garden plant and was commonly known as the marigold or Pot Marigold,
and was grown throughout Europe, both as a medicinal plant and as an ornamental.
Then the other type of marigold was discovered in the New World, the bedding
plant that Americans commonly refer to as the marigold. It was confusing to
have two common garden plants with the same name, so now we use the name
marigold for the species Tagetes and calendula for the wonderful, but almost
forgotten, plant formally known as the marigold.
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| Calendula |
For a long
time the beautiful little calendula has taken a backseat in ornamental gardens
as the other marigold was developed into hundreds of varieties and sold by the
millions in every garden center. As heritage flowers become popular again,
calendula is finally getting some attention from plant breeders and new
varieties that are coming on the market are sure to spark interest in its use
as an ornamental.
Calendula
flowers seem to glow or shine, in clear shades of vivid orange and yellow, and
they are wonderful in flower arrangements. For a long time calendulas were
always a solid color but recently plant breeders have introduced varieties with
blends of colors and some softer pastel colors. Calendula flowers open in the
day and close at night or in bad weather
Calendula is
an excellent plant to spice up the late summer and fall garden. It enjoys cool
weather and will handle several rounds of frost before quitting for the year.
Calendula is also a good plant for late spring color in Michigan gardens.
Calendula
culture
Calendula is
extremely easy to grow. The seeds are usually planted where they are to grow,
but they can be started inside. Outside, plant seeds 2-3 weeks before the
average last frost in your area. If planting inside, start them about six weeks
before your expected last frost. Cover the seeds lightly and keep them moist.
They bloom quickly from seed, often as soon as six weeks after planting. The
flower is daisy-like and 2-4 inches in size. You can sometimes find calendula
plants in nurseries in the spring for immediate color, but sowing seed in early
July in the garden will give you beautiful fall flowers as well.
Calendulas need
to have the flowers picked off as they fade, or they will quit blooming. They
are an annual plant, but they will re-seed freely in the garden, and you will
get new plants each year if you let some go to seed. Calendula grows to about
18 inches high and branches freely. Calendula prefers full sun and average soil
moisture. Little or no fertilizer is needed. They prefer cool weather and tend
to sulk or die in hot humid weather, although newer varieties handle heat
better.
Choosing
Varieties
Good
ornamental varieties of calendula are ‘Citrus
Smoothies’, very double flowers in pastel blends of apricot and lemon with
a light outer edge, ‘Orange Porcupine’,
which has a quilled look to the bright orange petals, ‘Geisha Girl’, which is a another deep orange with a very full look,
almost like a small mum, and ‘Neon’,
a deep orange edged in burgundy. The ‘Flashback’
strain has maroon on the back of each flower petal and the front of the petal
is a contrasting color, including peachy pinks. The ‘Pacific Giant’ strain has been around a long time and is a blend of
many shades of yellow and orange. It has some resistance to heat. There are
other improved varieties of calendula and new varieties are coming on the
market every year.
Using
calendula
Calendula
flowers are edible and can be added to salads for a colorful touch. The petals
of calendula have long been used to impart a golden color to soups, egg dishes,
rice, cheese and even butter. Calendula flowers are fed to chickens to make egg
yolks a deeper yellow and to give the skins of broilers a golden color. (If you
use calendula flowers in food make sure they have not been sprayed with any
pesticides.)
Calendula can
be used as a tea for stomach upset by steeping 5 teaspoons of fresh flower
petals in hot water. If this mixture is allowed to cool it makes an excellent
mouthwash, especially for sore and bleeding gums, because of its antiseptic
properties. Crushing a calendula flower on an insect sting will ease the pain.
Calendula is used in soothing salves, foot baths, and facial care products. If
you want the variety used for most commercial herbal preparations look for ‘Erfurter Orange’.
FDA bans use of trans-fats
Last week the
FDA finally did what they should of done years ago and banned the use of partially
hydrogenated fats in all food. Food
manufacturers have 3 years to remove trans fats from all foods but it will
probably happen before that as most companies were expecting the ban and have
been re-formulating recipes. Although Americans
have been eating less trans-fats since the FDA required foods to be labeled with
trans-fat content, they still are common in processed foods.
Trans fats
are linked to obesity, diabetes, heart disease, memory impairment, and many
other health problems. They are found in
many margarines, vegetable shortening, artificial coffee creamers, microwave
popcorn, most prepared cookies, cakes, and other snack foods and refrigerator
doughs. They are often used to fry
foods. In particular creamy fillings like those in Oreo cookies and ready to
spread frostings may be the hardest products to re-formulate. What’s better to use? Actually butter and lard will cause fewer
health problems in baked goods than trans-fats and some plant oils (not soy or
corn) are better for frying.
This week’s wildflower- Queen Anne’s
Lace
Flowers
sometimes get fanciful names but this wild carrot does have a pretty flower
that looks lacy. It’s a common sight and the subject of many a child’s bouquets
for mom. Queen Anne’s Lace is also known as wild carrot or sometimes bird nest
flower.
Queen Anne’s
Lace, (Daucus carota), is truly the ancestor of the common garden carrot and it
does have a yellowish-white thick taproot. But it’s not advisable to eat the
roots of those plants found growing wild as it often hard to distinguish Queen
Anne’s Lace from some very deadly forms of Hemlock.
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| Queen Anne's Lace. |
Queen Anne’s
Lace is a bi-annual plant. The first year it sends up a mound of feathery
fern-like leaves that smell like carrots when crushed. In the second year tall,
tough spikes- up to 5 feet high come out of the mounds of foliage. These
support flat, umbrella shaped clusters of white flowers. There can be many
stems and flowers from each plant.
In the very
center of most flower clusters is a single dark red or purple flower. As the
flowers die they curl upward, forming a brownish cup or “birds nest”. Seeds
mature inside the cup and are eventually shaken to the ground by the wind.
Plants die after the second year.
Queen Anne’s
Lace is in flower from June through the summer. It is found in sunny, well
drained soils of all kinds in fields and along the roads. It makes an excellent
cut flower.
Growing Squash (It’s not too late to plant some)
There’s an
old saying that you only need one zucchini plant in the county to provide
everyone with enough zucchini. That
holds true of most types of squash, they are very prolific. In Michigan, most types of squash are fairly
easy for the gardener to grow.
There are two
main types of squash, winter and summer.
Summer squash varieties are generally eaten when they are immature. They are usually cooked with the thin skin
left intact. Winter squash have a harder
skin or rind and are generally allowed to mature before being harvested.
Pumpkins are actually a form of winter squash.
Within those two categories there are hundreds of squash varieties
waiting for the home gardener to try.
Varieties
of Squash
Zucchini is
probably the most frequently grown summer squash. There are the familiar long green types of
zucchini and there are golden long types and round ball shaped zucchinis. ‘Black
Beauty’ is an old variety that is still loved by gardeners. It’s long and dark green. ‘GoldRush’
is a long yellow zucchini. ‘Spacemiser’
is a long zucchini that grows in a bush form that takes less space. ‘Perfect Pick’ is a zucchini that is
nearly seedless. If round zucchini
interest you try ‘Eight Ball’ a dark
green, ‘Cue Ball’ a light green or ‘One Ball’ which is bright yellow.
Crookneck
squash are another summer squash. ‘Horn of Plenty’ will give you plenty of
baby squash to eat. ‘FancyCrook’ is another prolific
crookneck variety. It has pale yellow
skin and white flesh. ‘Enterprise’
has no crook; it is a straight necked, crook neck – what a tongue twister. It has long slender yellow fruit.
Pattypan or
scalloped squash are another type of summer squash. ‘Sunburst’
is a golden pattypan with a bush type growth habit, perfect for small
gardens. ‘Balmoral’ bears white fruit and is compact enough to be grown in
patio pots.
In the winter
squash category we have acorn, buttercup, butternut, hubbard, spaghetti and
many unusual and heirloom varieties.
There are many hybrids between varieties also. Some types of squash will also cross with
pumpkins.
‘Table Ace’ is a well known and prolific
acorn squash. ‘Cream of the Crop’ is an acorn squash with creamy white fruit. ‘Sweet
Mama’ is a buttercup squash with compact vines and dark green skin. ‘Mooregold’
is a orange buttercup that is very prolific.
‘Waltham Butternut’ is the old
favorite of butternut varieties, with tan skin and orange flesh. ‘Really
Big’ is a butternut that produces huge, sweet fruits with deep orange
flesh.
If you like
hubbard type squash you’ll enjoy ‘Baby
Blue’ with its space saving compact vines and fruit size just right for
small families. It has blue-gray skin
and orange flesh. ‘Golden Hubbard’ is an heirloom hubbard that is very prolific and
bears huge golden fruit.
Spaghetti
squash have flesh that shreds into pasta like pieces. ‘Pasta
hybrid’ is a creamy yellow tasty spaghetti squash. ‘Small
Wonder’ is a prolific producer of single serving size spaghetti squash.
Other winter
squash you may want to try are ‘Delicata’
a squash that is said to taste like sweet potatoes and its bush variety, ‘Bush Delicata’ ‘Thelma
Sanders Sweet Potato’ is an
heirloom squash with the same flavor. ‘Kikuza’ looks like a heavily ribbed tan
pumpkin with orange flesh that has a sweet but spicy flavor. ‘Sweet
Dumpling’ is a round creamy white squash with green stripes that is
excellent when stuffed like a pepper and baked.
‘Kabocha Sunshine hybrid’ is a
red- orange round squash, with a smooth texture and mild flavor.
What
squash needs
One thing
that all squash have in common is that like to be planted outside when the soil
is warm and all danger of frost is gone.
They resent transplanting so if you decide to start them inside use peat
pots and start them so that they are only about 3 weeks old before
transplanting time. Squash seed can also
be sown directly in the ground when the soil is warm. Sow seed about a half inch deep. You can sow early maturing squash up to the
end of June.
Many people
plant squash in a mound, which warms the soil faster and provides deeper soil
for the roots. Black plastic laid down over the soil will also warm it
quickly. Cut holes in it to plant squash
seeds or plants.
If you are
planting traditional vine squash make sure you plant the seeds where the plants
will have plenty of room. A squash plant
can grow ten or more feet in a season.
Bush plants take less room but still require three to four foot of space
per plant.
Squash
appreciate some well- rotted manure mixed into the soil at planting or some
slow release garden fertilizer. They
will need to be watered if there is less than an inch of rain per week or if
they begin to wilt. Try to water so that
the foliage is dry by nightfall.
Squash
produce male flowers first. These do not
produce fruit. You’ll know the female
flowers because they have a small swelling behind the flower which looks just
like the fruit they are going to develop into.
After female flowers are fertilized they develop rapidly into squash
fruits. Summer squash may be ready to
eat in two weeks. Winter squash will
take much longer.
Squash are
insect pollinated so do nothing to discourage bees and other insects if you
want fruit. You can eat the male flowers
and excess female flowers. Some people
stuff and bake them; others dip them in batter and fry them. When it is about a month before your normal
first hard frost, and your winter type squash plants have set some fruit, you
may want to pick off the additional flowers before they set fruit. This concentrates the plants energy into
ripening the fruit that it already set.
Harvesting
squash
Harvest
summer type squash when the fruits are young and tender. Summer squash do not store well. Leave the fruits of winter squash until the
skin is hardened and they seem mature.
Cut a stem with the squash and don’t remove it until ready to cook. Don’t wash the squash before storage, just
brush off excess dirt gently. Store
squash in a warm, 55-65 degree, dark place.
Most winter
squash seeds can be roasted and salted for eating, just like pumpkin
Today’s mighty oak is just yesterday’s
nut that held its ground.
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share?
Post them here by emailing me.
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch. Now open.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Garden Day 2015, August 1, 2015, 8
a.m. - 4:15 p.m. Veterinary Medical Center / Plant & Soil Sciences Bldg.,
MSU campus, East Lansing, MI
This is
MSU’s horticulture departments annual garden seminar. The public is welcome. Key note speaker is
Rick Darke, a widely published author, photographer, lecturer and consultant
focused on regional landscape design, planning, conservation, and enhancement. You
get a choice of 2 other classes and a closing speaker also.
Cost is
$85.60 for non-2015 Garden members prior to July 24, $95.60 on and after July
25th this includes lunch but not the evening reception.
Please
visit www.hrt.msu.edu/garden-day-2015/ for a full schedule, workshop
descriptions and more. Contact:
Jennifer Sweet, CMP, CTA, at 517-355-5191 ext. 1339 or hgardens@msu.edu.
MSU Plant Trial Field Day, August 4,
2015, 8:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. 1066 Bogue Street, Plant & Soil Sciences Bldg.
(1st floor), East Lansing, MI 48824
Commercial
growers, landscapers and advanced gardeners are invited to this annual event to
learn about some of the superior new plants and how they perform in
mid-Michigan in the MSU Trial Gardens. Plant performance, ornamental
characters, and special needs of plants will be covered. We will also host
presentations on the most recent research on the development and spread of
impatiens downy mildew and up-to-date discussions on the evolving ethics of
American gardeners. For this important and timely topic, Entomologists and
Horticultural Extension Specialists will bring us up-to-date on the latest news
in pollinators, native insects, and pesticides such as neonicotinoids.
The
$42/person registration fee (by July 30) includes morning refreshments, lunch,
parking, trial booklet, and the program.
Back Track To Nature offers the
following programs to
inspire you and deepen your relationship with nature! In partnership with the
Lapeer Land Conservancy and Seven Ponds Nature Center these programs are a
perfect way for families and adults to enjoy the outdoors.
Change of the Season –
A Guided Nature Walk
Saturday,
June 27, 2015 9:30AM to 11:30AM
and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
Entrance
and parking is located across from 4090
Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan Join us for a guided nature walk on
the trials of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land
Conservancy property. Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides.
Dress for the weather. This is a walking tour on uneven terrain. No Admittance
fee. Groups of 5 or more please call 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to this
walk.
Learn in the Garden
Tour - Planting, Composting and Water Harvesting
Monday,
June 29, 2015 9:30AM to
11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
In this
tried and true garden tour you will learn basic techniques, of planting,
composting and water harvesting to promote sustainability and keep your own
garden growing in abundance. This farm and garden tour will be held at Three
Roods Farm at 4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville Michigan. Dress for the
weather. Class size is limited to 15, children 17 and under must be accompanied
by a registered adult. No admittance fee. Call 810-969-1023 to reserve your
spot.
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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