June 2,
2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
Hello Gardeners
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| Bristly Locust in bloom |
I love June. There’s something about the season, posed on
the brink of nature’s maturity, like a lovely girl about to become a bride. Maybe that’s why June is favored for things
like weddings and graduations; it’s the brink of maturity, the passage way from
youth to maturity. June is full of hope and
promise, lush with roses and sweetened with strawberries, plump and ripe.
I do
apologize for telling everyone that it was time to plant everything last week. Some
of you probably got light frost last night.
I didn’t check for the full moon, and I have noticed that it seems to
get cold around the full moon at the end of May or beginning of June. On Monday morning the weather service issued a
frost advisory for areas above I-69 but they had modified it by late afternoon,
saying frost would only occur north of the Saginaw Valley. With the wind dying at sunset and the sky
clear I decided to cover some of my more tender plants anyway, the tropical
houseplants I put out last week when it was 85 degrees for example. I left the veggie garden pretty much alone,
hoping for the best.
This morning
most of my plants seemed fine, especially the covered plants. It got down to 34 degrees early this morning
and that’s good enough for frost. There
was heavy dew, but I don’t know if any of it froze last night because I didn’t
get up early enough. However the single
pepper plant I have looked like it was touched by frost. They are cold tender anyway. Tonight should be ok, temps are supposed to
stay above 40 degrees. I guess we just
have to remember that this is Michigan having a stretch of 85 degree weather and
then getting frost is possible.
The taste of honeyberries
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| Honeyberry fruit in my garden |
I was in the
vegetable garden weeding yesterday, enjoying the sun after the few days of rain
we had, which we really needed. (1 and 3/10’s inch over 2 days here) I happened to look up under my honeyberry
plant and lo and behold- it had ripe berries.
This is the third year in my garden and while it bloomed last year it
didn’t set fruit. Since it is supposed
to need 2 different varieties for pollination and my second plant had only a
couple flowers, I didn’t expect fruit.
The fruit is hard to see, concealed under the branches. I was excited to taste it but somewhat disappointed. They have a sweet-sour taste but it’s
bland. I wasn’t impressed. The fruit is
very small; it’s long and blue when ripe.
While the plant is advertised as a blueberry alternative, I wouldn’t expect
much of a crop from it. People are said
to make jam from the berries, maybe that would work if you had a lot of plants.
My lovely heirloom
graduation rose (aka Harrisons Yellow) is in bloom and is lovely next to the
purple Dames Rocket. Columbine and wild
geraniums are in bloom. Bearded iris are
blooming The Bristly Locusts that occupy great expanses of our lawn on the east
are all in bloom. This plant is very invasive
but it’s so pretty in bloom. People stop
and ask for starts of it every year when it’s blooming.
The yellow
flower blooming all along the roadsides and in fields is yellow rocket. It’s a biannual and dies after setting
seed. The little lavender daisy like
flower with the yellow centers that’s blooming everywhere is Daisy Fleabane. Field corn and soybeans are coming up and many
farmers are cutting hay for the first time.
I have
harvested romaine and butter head lettuce.
The apple trees seem to have set a good crop of fruit. Strawberries are progressing nicely. My large cucumber plant is flowering, and so
are my tomatoes, but it will probably be a few weeks before they set
fruit. My sweet corn and popcorn have
germinated as well as melons and pumpkins.
The Scarlet runner beans I planted are also up and cleome, cosmos,
calendula and nasturtium. For some
reason the zinnias I planted have not appeared.
I test a solar water fountain pump
After seeing
advertisements for them I decided to purchase a small solar powered water pump
to use in a water garden. The thing is
very tiny- about 2 inches square and I was skeptical when I saw it that it
would work at all. It has a solar panel
about a foot square that is connected to the pump with a 10 foot cord so you
can locate it in the sun a little way from the fountain if needed.
I took the pump
in its box with me when was on the way to the barn and set it down on a patio
table, meaning to test it when I was done with chores. When I came back the box lid had blown up and
the pump was working away! I was worried
I had ruined it because the pump isn’t supposed to work without water. But after filling a bowl with water to test
it I found it worked surprisingly well. Turn the solar panel to the sun and the
pump begins working almost immediately. This one had a rise of only about 5
inches, meaning it needs to be about 5 inches underwater if the fountain head
is at the surface. But the fountain
spray rose about 18 inches in full sun conditions and was quite wide, which
surprised me. It had 3 different spray
heads to choose from. I was pleased with
how well it ran. I’ll post a picture
when I get my water garden finished.
This model
cost less than $25 and of course it runs absolutely free. You don’t have to have an electrical outlet
near the water feature, just sun within 10 feet. Of course these pumps don’t work at night or
when it’s real cloudy. When I angled the
solar collector the height of the spray dropped, light hazy clouds also caused
a drop, but it didn’t quit. There is no
on or off switch on these either and you can adjust the height of the spray
only by adjusting how much sun the collector gets. But for the price I really like it and I’m
excited to get started on a small water feature. My husband told me to order another one,
since he wants to experiment with a fountain in another spot.
The model I ordered from Amazon is 1.8 watts
solar fountain pump by Atniches but there are many to choose from, from several
places, including larger, more powerful ones.
There are some with battery backup too, so you can use them at night or
during cloudy times. If you want a water
feature without hooking up electrical power outside or don’t like how high your
electric bill jumps when you run water pumps, try one of the solar pumps.
June almanac
June is a
wonderful month in the northern hemisphere, the month when strawberries ripen and
roses begin to bloom. Indeed this
month’s full moon,( June 2), is called
the Full Strawberry moon in North America and Full Rose moon in European
countries. And it sure was full and
pretty last night.
June’s birth
flower is, of course, the rose. There
are actually 3 birthstones for June (thanks to greedy jewelers), the pearl, the
moonstone and the alexandrite.
June is a
good month for planting. Good days to
plant above ground crops are June 16-18th and the 24th -28th
. The 3-5th and 12th
-13th are good days to plant root crops. Do
you need to cut hay? Try June 10-11th
and June 28th.
June is
National Rose, Dairy, and Fresh Fruit and Vegetables month. It’s adopt a cat month. It’s also Gay Pride
month and Fight the Filthy Fly month.
June 4th
is Old Maids Day (don’t they deserve
their own day?) and the 5th is World Environment day. Flag Day is June 14th and
Father’s day is June 21st this year.
The 17th is Eat your Vegetables day.
The 26th is Forgiveness Day.
Summer
solstice is June 21st at 6:51 am. At the
time of the solstice the sun is at its highest point and the point farthest
north that it gets in the northern hemisphere.
Solstice comes from Latin, roughly meaning sun stands still. At the solstice the sun seems to pause for a
few days, and then slowly reverses its direction, moving back toward the south
and lower in the sky. Sadly it’s the
longest day of the year and the nights get longer after the solstice.
In ancient
times this event, the solstice, was always celebrated. It’s still a good day to have a campfire,
gaze at stars and wonder at the immensity of the universe and our place in it.
It falls on a Sunday this year so get out in nature and celebrate!
The month of
June is named after the Roman goddess Juno, the goddess of marriage, family and
childbirth. To marry in June was said
to make a couple fertile and blessed with prosperity.
Harison’s Rose, Yellow Rose of Texas,
Oregon Trail Rose, Graduation Rose
In my family
we call it the Graduation Rose because my mother, I, and all of my siblings and
our kids have been photographed in front of my grandmother’s bush in our cap
and gown. But while it is a hybrid
variety this rose is old and well known and is found throughout the US. It even grows wild along the Oregon Trail, where
pioneers abandoned belongings or where they planted it at the graves of those
who died on the trail. I have a plant (several
actually) from my grandmothers plant.
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| My Graduation (Harison's) Rose |
The rose
originated in the Manhattan NY gardens of a George Harison by chance mutation
in the 1830’s. Harison named it,
reproduced it, and sold the cultivar widely. The rose was very popular because of its
hardiness and adaptability in the 1800’s. It was carried west by hundreds of pioneers
and can be found growing across the US. It
is extremely hardy and long lived and is often found growing wild on abandoned
homesteads.
While it
blooms only once in early June, Harison’s Rose is usually covered in small
double light yellow flowers that have a nice rose scent and a well grown bush
is beautiful. It’s the first rose to
bloom in most gardens. The plant forms a large 5-6 feet bush with arching canes
if left to its own devices but can be pruned after blooming to make it more
compact. My grandmother trellised hers,
I let mine arch gracefully. Flowers
produce small rose hips which are dark red-black.
 |
| Flower close up- Harison's Rose. |
This rose has
stems covered in small thorns, which make it hard to handle, but keep deer and
other animals from grazing it pretty effectively. Leaves are small and dark gray-green. This rose can handle light shade, but blooms
best in sun. It suckers rampantly in
good soil, and will form a thicket if allowed.
However the suckers make great plants to share. Harisons rose is disease resistant and rarely
suffers from blackspot or other diseases.
It doesn’t need winter protection and suffers little dieback even in
severe winters.
Even though
it only blooms once and takes up a lot of space this heirloom hardy rose is
worth having in the garden for its history and beauty if you have the room. It’s
the rose that symbolizes the American spirit. Harison’s Rose is hard to find commercially. I have given away several suckers this spring
but if you are interested contact me and I’ll try to dig one for you.
How to Grow a Catalpa or Catawba tree
You may know
it as catalpa, Catawba, Indian Bean, Cigar tree, or Fish Bait tree but chances
are if you live in the United States, you have seen this unique tree. Catalpa is a true tree of the people,
surviving in all kinds of conditions from polluted cities to windswept
prairies. Native Americans utilized the
Catawba long before settlers arrived in the New World. But the settlers soon recognized the value of
the catalpa and carried it with them across the country. With catalpa’s ability to survive most
conditions and grow rapidly, and it’s bonus of beautiful, fragrant flowers, it
was the pioneer’s choice of trees to plant on a new homestead.
For fast
shade in rough conditions, catalpa is a good choice. Farmers plant catalpa for the wood, which
makes strong, lightweight, rot-resistant fence posts. It makes a nice specimen tree with showy
flowers at a time few other trees are blooming.
There are two
recognized species of catalpa or Catawba tree in North America, Southern
Catalpa, C. bignonioides, and Northern Catalpa, C. speciosa. There are only subtle differences in the two
and they have both been planted far outside their natural ranges. Both catalpas are hardy in Michigan to zone
4, both have large, heart-shaped leaves, fragrant white flowers splashed with
yellow and purple, and long skinny seed pods resembling bean pods. The Southern
Catalpa is a slightly smaller tree, with the leaves growing in a whorled
pattern rather than opposite each other as in the Northern Catalpa. The leaves of some Northern Catalpas may be
lobed. Catalpa ovata, Chinese Catalpa,
is a small tree, with lobed leaves. The
creamy yellow flowers are also a bit smaller, and produced later in the
summer. They are hard to find.
 |
| Catalpa blooms |
The white
flowers of the Northern and Southern Catalpa tree are large, frilly and
orchid-like. They are marked with purple
dots and yellow patches, no two seemed to be marked quite alike. When catalpa trees bloom in June or July, the
sweet scent of the flowers can be almost over powering. Bees, butterflies and hummingbirds flock to
the flowers. It’s quite a show for a
week or two, and then all of the flowers are shed, making the ground under them
look like a summer snowfall has occurred. The flowers turn into purple, then
green, and then brown narrow pods, up to a foot long. They may hang in the trees all winter. In the
fall or following spring the pods release hundred of flat seeds. If birds do not eat them they turn into more
catalpa trees in every corner of the yard.
The catalpa
tree is slow to leaf out in the spring, but when it does, it produces a deep
shade. The leaves of catalpa are large, up to a foot long in some cases. Usually they are medium green, slightly
lighter and downy on the underside.
Purple and golden leaved varieties exist.
Catalpa culture
While
catalpas seem to pop up everywhere when you have a tree in the yard, the seeds
seem to be a little tricky to germinate.
If you cannot find a small catalpa tree to purchase and have access to
seeds, sow them in an outside bed of well-prepared soil in late fall or very
early spring, cover lightly, and let nature do the work. Catalpas transplant fairly easily when
small. Catalpas will grow almost
anywhere, in any kind of soil, but they need full sun and fairly regular
moisture. They will not grow in poorly
drained areas. They grow quite rapidly
when young. A catalpa tree in a good
spot may add 2 foot of growth a year and trees bloom young, as early as six
years of age.
Catalpa trees
do have some disadvantages in the home landscape however. Severe winters, like the winter of 2014-15 can
cause a lot of dieback on catalpa including limbs on large trees, but the trees
usually recover. The trees are messy,
shedding flowers, large leaves, and seed pods abundantly. Some people are allergic to the pollen of
catalpa flowers and the scent really bothers some sensitive people. In the south catalpas are also host to large
green and yellow caterpillars in great numbers, the larvae of the Catalpa
Sphinx moth, the reason for one of catalpas folk names. Many a southern fisherperson has planted
Catawba trees just to get the bait worms.
But for other folk these caterpillars are a big disadvantage, raining
down green droppings and defoliating the trees. They can be controlled with
insect sprays when they first hatch.
These worms have not been a problem in Michigan.
Catalpa trees
often become infected with verticillium wilt, a fungal disease that causes
large parts of the tree to die. Catalpas
tend to shoot up suckers from the roots, and side shoots from the trunk, and
few ever totally die, but they look unsightly and need constant trimming of
dead areas. There is no real cure, but
fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer helps the tree keep growing. If you remove the tree, don’t replace it with
another catalpa tree in the same area as the disease remains in the soil.
If people in
the household frequently suffer from seasonal allergies, a catalpa tree might
not be a good landscape choice, as the flower pollen is quite allergenic. The roots of catalpa are poisonous, but don’t
seem to cause the problems with other plants that walnut roots produce. The sawdust from working with catalpa wood
can cause inhalant and skin allergy symptoms.
For that reason it would probably not be good to use catalpa wood chips
or shavings as animal bedding. The
seedpods and seeds of catalpa contain a mild narcotic and sedative and should
not be put in the mouth or consumed.
Rethinking the resistance to GMO’s
If a crop
plant could be improved by natural breeding programs but the same result could
be produced faster by genetic engineering is it fine to do it? If we remove certain genes from a domestic
crop that were developed through decades of conventional breeding in order to
strengthen disease resistance is it wrong and evil? Is it dangerous? These are things that are now possible
because of genetic engineering methods developed by companies to make a
profit. But the words “genetically
modified” have become scary to many people and they reject any food produced
that way without finding out what, how and why the crops genes were
manipulated.
It takes a
profit motive for most agriculture based innovations to become realities. When companies were pouring money into ways to
modify the genetic structure of plants they were thinking about producing
plants that could be trademarked, like the infamous Round Up ready soybeans
that Monsanto profits so greatly from.
But the methods of manipulating genes in plants that these companies
developed can be used in other ways that re actually beneficial. The methods of generic modification are not
inheritably wrong; although what we produce with it can be dangerous it can
also be incredibly helpful and absolutely safe.
We have to start making the distinctions.
Genetic modification is not new
Man has
always modified food crops genetically, but for a long time we had only one
long and laborious way of doing so, through selective breeding. We choose the best plants and bred them
together, decade after decade. Sexual
propagation always produces new combinations of genes. There was some
experimentation with radiation and chemicals to produce mutations, but these
are hard to control and direct. Then
with the development of new ways to identify individual genes and discover what
they controlled, we were also able to discover how to add or remove those genes
to quickly produce plants with specific traits.
When man had
to depend on selective breeding to modify plants, before we could separate the
genes and discover what roles they played, we often brought along genes we
didn’t want or that weren’t beneficial when we selected plants for certain
beneficial traits. We didn’t understand
how genes usually come in groups called chromosomes which can carry many
traits. We knew that nature would weed
out certain traits that benefited humans if they didn’t benefit the plant
species. But we didn’t know how to preserve
the beneficial to human traits and still keep the traits nature gave the plant to
protect it.
When man
selected wheat plants for bigger seed heads and shorter stems the wheat plants
lost some traits for disease and insect resistance. What if we can find some wild wheat relatives
and add back those disease and insect resistant genes without losing the genes
for big fat seed heads and short sturdy stalks? Or what if certain genes that
were changed when wheat was selectively bred and that caused the plants to be
more attractive to insects could be removed?
Scientists think they can do this.
They could even do it conventionally, by breeding wild wheat with
domestic, testing each generation for specific genes, for 20 to 50 years. But they can also do it by isolating the
desired genes and either adding or subtracting genes in new modern wheat varieties
and get a modified crop in just a few years.
Which way is best?
Is it wrong
to add carotene genes from carrots to rice so that people whose diets consist
mostly of rice can benefit from them?
Carotene is converted to Vitamin A in the body and lack of vitamin A can
cause blindness among other things. Rice
does not have vitamin A without genetic modification. Is it wrong to modify carrots to have more
carotene? After all, the ancestors of
modern carrots had white roots but we modified them through selective breeding.
We think nothing of adding back artificial
vitamins to many food products. Why not
add vitamins/more nutrients to plants through genetic modification?
What we
learned about genetic modification and how to manage it was never wrong, even
though the methods may have been used to produce certain plant crops that were
harmful to us and the environment. What
companies do for profit often leads to less than honest reports of the benefits
or problems with a product. Ultimately
however, it comes back to bite them.
Because of the less than ideal or healthy crops some companies put on
the market, the term genetic modification scares many people. But consumers
should not reject all crops produced by modern methods of genetic
manipulation. There are many crops
produced by modern genetic manipulation that are not harmful and some are
greatly beneficial.
Yes there are
things that we have done to plants (and animals) through genetic manipulation
that have proved harmful. We should
reject those things and we should also demand rigid, non-biased testing on new
genetic manipulation, especially that which could not be reproduced
naturally. But we should also embrace
the technology that has so much to offer if it is used correctly and stop
fearing it.
Lambsquarters, a weed to recognize and
control
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| Lambsquarter seedlings |
Common
Lambsquarters, (Chenopodium album ) is also known as White Goosefoot, Fat Hen,
and Mealweed and it gets those names in an interesting way. Europeans used the
weed to fatten poultry and sheep, and also as a cooked green, similar to
spinach. Common Lambsquarters is an annual plant that grows just about
anywhere. It is found all over the worId, it’s one of the 5 most common plants
world- wide.
Native
Americans collected the seeds of lambsquarter, which were eaten raw or ground
into a flour to cook. They also ate the plant as a green. At one time it was thought that lambsquarters
were of European origin and introduced to the new world. But archeological digs have found evidence
that the seeds of lambsquarters were collected and stored by Native Americans
long before European settlement. Indigenous
people around the world stored and ate the seeds of lambsquarter in prehistoric
times. Remember this if you are ever
searching for survival food.
Lambsquarters
has several herbal remedies also. The
leaves are high in Vitamin C and used to prevent scurvy. A cold tea of the
leaves is used to stop diarrhea and is used for stomach aches. Warm poultices of the leaves are used for
burns and rashes and to relieve itching.
Animals
eagerly seek lambsquarters out to eat when it is young and tender. It’s a good food for poultry, goats and sheep
and was used as fodder in earlier times. Horses and cows will also graze it. Once the stems of lambsquarters get thick and
hardened, however, animals usually leave it alone.
Lambsquarters
likes rich soil and often comes up in manure piles and barnyards. In rich
garden soil it will make a thick carpet of green very quickly in the spring and
tends to smother out other seedlings if left to grow. It is a plant of disturbed soil, crop fields and
gardens, and rarely appears in meadows or undisturbed areas. Farmers say if the soil is covered with
lambsquarters it’s good fertile land.
However lambsquarters can and will appear almost anywhere, in poor soil
or rich, in sun and shade, in all pH soils.
Identifying lambsquarters
Common
Lambsquarters has roughly triangular leaves, with notched edges and sometimes
small lobes. One large leaf on the tip of a stem is often followed by two small
leaves that are opposite of each other. The rest of the leaves are alternate on
the stem. Lambsquarter leaves have a
grey, somewhat fuzzy underside, especially when young, that is an identifying
feature. The fuzziness disappears on
older leaves.
The plant
makes thick sturdy stems that have vertical ridges and are often red tinged. It
can grow to 3 feet or even larger in great spots. In good soil and sun, many branched, bushy
plants up to 6 feet high can form.
 |
| Lambsquarter flowering. |
The plant has
inconspicuous, greenish grey flowers that look like tiny knots on spikes near
the top of the plant. Common Lambsquarters produces two kinds of seeds, a hard,
black, round seed that can survive in the ground for a long period of time, and
a lighter brown, flattened oval seed which generally germinates quickly. The
plants produce thousands of each type of seed each year. Don’t let them go to seed.
Lambsquarters
could be controlled with broad leaf weed killers but is easy to pull or hoe up
when young. It rarely gets large in
lawns because mowing regularly will kill it.
Many fungal and viral diseases of tomatoes, potatoes and other crops may
be passed to them from lambsquarters. Mosaic
viruses are especially prevalent in lambsquarters. Remove all lambsquarters plants from the
garden as soon as seen. You may want to
eat them!
June, roses in hand, strawberries on the lips
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.
Here’s a seed/plant
sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area
Free Garden tour by Michigan Hosta
Society, Saturday June 13th, 9 am – 5pm.
Take a self-guided
tour through 5 beautiful gardens, public welcome and it’s free! There will be refreshments at some gardens
and vendors will be offering items for sale and demonstrations. To
get more info and a map go to http://easternmichiganhostasociety.blogspot.com/
Here’s a link to
classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North
Branch. Now open.
Here’s a link to
classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a link to
programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.
Here’s a link to
classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined
with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a link to
classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and
Brighton locations
Here’s a link to
events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor,
Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden
Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a link to all
the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden,
Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/
Here’s a link to
events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Back Track To Nature offers the
following programs to inspire you and deepen your relationship with
nature! In partnership with the Lapeer Land Conservancy and Seven Ponds Nature
Center these programs are a perfect way for families and adults to enjoy the
outdoors.
JUNE 2015
The History of the Land Series -
Introduction to Land Stewardship
Thursday June 4,
2015 6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking
is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan In this
History of the Land Series, our focus will be on land stewardship of the
Tibbits property. You will gain valuable
information and understanding about what a land steward is required to do: we
will discuss how to monitor property, identify encroachments both the animal an
human impact and show you how to perform trail maintenance and identify
invasive species. Join Karen Page land steward, at the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and
under are free. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least
3 days prior to reserve your spot.
Wild Springtime Tea Party
Saturday, June 13,
2015 10:00AM to 12:00PM
Cassie M owner of
Hilltop Barn will guide us through field and forest to show us how to identify
native plants and brew up some tasty teas and learn the how wild edibles are
beneficial to your overall health. Please contact Karen Page at 810-969-1023 to
register, children 17 and younger must be accompanied by a registered adult. No
admittance fee and donations accepted. Please park in the designated parking
area.
Living with Less: Talk and Tour of
the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Saturday, June 13,
2015 1:00PM to
3:00PM
4107 Columbiaville
Road, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421 Rewire your brain to repurpose, reuse,
recycle, harvest rainwater and grow your own foods, begin a new lifestyle
recreated by living with less, Tibbits Nature Sanctuary owner Clark Tibbits
will share his successful experiences creating a life long choice to live on
less. A step you can make toward a living with less can be as simple as adding
a rain barrel and a square foot garden to your home landscape. Back Track To
Nature owner Karen Page, will demonstrate how to harvest rainwater and grow
your own food in a small spaces. Please
call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a
registered adult. Follow the signs and park in the designated parking area.
The History of the Land -
Introduction to Wetland Restoration
Monday, June 15,
2015 9:00AM to 11:00AM
and 6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking
is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan. In
this History of the Land Series we will explore, observe and study the wetlands
and learn about rich and exciting varieties of wildlife and plants, focusing on
water lilies, Today, this wetland is cared for by the Lapeer Land Conservancy
but it could have been in the backyard of the famous painter Monet who in 1890
developed his own outside studio where water lilies influenced his paintings.
Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free. Dress for the weather. Groups of 5 or more
please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days before to reserve your spot.
Change of the Season – A Guided
Nature Walk
Saturday, June 27,
2015 9:30AM to 11:30AM and
3:30PM to 5:30PM
Entrance and parking
is located across from 4090
Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan Join us for a guided nature walk on
the trials of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land
Conservancy property. Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides.
Dress for the weather. This is a walking tour on uneven terrain. No Admittance
fee. Groups of 5 or more please call 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to this
walk.
Learn in the Garden Tour - Planting,
Composting and Water Harvesting
Monday, June 29,
2015 9:30AM to 11:30AM
and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
In this tried and
true garden tour you will learn basic techniques, of planting, composting and
water harvesting to promote sustainability and keep your own garden growing in
abundance. This farm and garden tour will be held at Three Roods Farm at 4821
One Acre Drive, Columbiaville Michigan. Dress for the weather. Class size is
limited to 15, children 17 and under must be accompanied by a registered adult.
No admittance fee. Call 810-969-1023 to reserve your spot.
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to
me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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