March 3,
2015 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
Hello Gardeners
.JPG) |
| The March flower is the daffodil- hope we see some in March! |
It’s another stormy
Tuesday. It’s snowing quite well here
but I am hoping the freezing rain will pass us by. I knew it was going to be a
bad weather day by the way the birds are acting. My chickens and ducks were staying on their
roosts this morning. The window outside
my office looks like a scene from the movie “Birds”. The ground is moving with the gray bodies of
junco’s and I counted 8 cardinals at the feeders and nearby trees. But the tree sparrows, goldfinches and house
finches are swarming the feeders, dozens and dozens of them. I filled the feeders last night in
anticipation of the weather but those birds will have them emptied in no time.
While watching the birds I
noticed a slightly larger sparrow –like bird and then I saw the two tiny black
horns on its head. Sure enough a quick
look–up in my bird guide confirmed I was seeing a Horned Lark. He sat at the
feeder for a good while. I have never seen one at a feeder, it must be the
weather.
I have a bit of spring
fever. I cleaned off the porch and
brought in a bag of potting medium to thaw as I have a strong urge to start
some seeds. I just don’t know if the
darned squirrels are going to let me plant anything out there. They have almost completely eaten off my
geraniums now and have been digging in other pots. I have two traps set but they aren’t catching
anything- these squirrels are smart.
I want to get an early batch
of romaine and leaf lettuce started this week.
If I get it going I should have salad by the end of April, when
hopefully I’ll start my outside greens patch.
I may try a pot of sugar pod peas too, that would really attract the
squirrels though.
It’s time to prune those
fruit trees if you can get through the snow.
It’s been too cold to do it- at least for me- but I sense the time is
coming when I can tolerate the weather long enough to prune. Next weekend looks good- partly sunny and in
the 30’s- I’ll take it.
Remember daylight savings
time starts Sunday, March 8th.
Spring those clocks ahead.
March almanac
The full moon in March
(March 5th) is called the Worm moon, because earthworms once more
make worm casts on the soil surface or Sap moon because the trees begin to
produce sap again. If we get lucky those
things may occur this March. Good days
for planting above ground crops are the 22-23, 26-28th and good days
for planting below ground crops are the 6-10th, 14-15, 18-19.
The most important date for
all gardeners in March is, of course the first day of spring. It’s March 20th. That’s the date when the length of the day
and the night are the same, the spring equinox. Of course Mother Nature does
not follow our calendar and this year it looks like it may not be very spring
like by that date although I fervently hope I am wrong.
Other important dates and
holidays in March are: 7th – Employee Appreciation Day, 8th International
Women’s day, 12th – Girl Scout Day and Plant a flower Day, the 13th is National
popcorn day and the 14th National Potato chip day. The 14th is also Learn about Butterflies day.
The 15th is the Ides of
March. In ancient Rome this was the
beginning of the New Year and also of spring. The 17th is St. Patrick’s Day and
the 18th is the Goddess of Fertility day.
The 19th is poultry day, the 20th is Earth Day although beware-it’s also
Alien Abduction day. The 25th is
National Agriculture day as well as National Pecan day and National Waffle
day. The 30th is National Doctors day.
March is Irish American
month as well as National Women’s History month, National Nutrition month,
National Peanut month, National Craft Month and National Frozen Foods
month.
March’s birth flower is the
daffodil or jonquil, the birthstone is aqua marine.
Exotic patio plants to try this summer
If you are a typical gardener
you often have zone denial, which is you want to grow plants that aren’t winter
hardy in your planting zone. Tropical
and semi-tropical plants often beckon us with their majestic forms, interesting
foliage or beautiful flowers. You can
buy them, enjoy them through the summer and let them die when winter
comes. But many of these plants also
make great houseplants or at least aren’t difficult to over winter. And because some of these plants take more
than one season to reach their full potential you’ll want to bring these plants
inside for the winter.
In this article I am going
to skip some of the common patio or tub plants like Chinese Hibiscus, palms,
citrus and banana trees and talk about some less well known plants. This is just a short description you may want
to look up more detailed care, especially for expensive plants. Most of these plants you will want to grow in
containers so they can be moved inside before cold weather. Don’t put them outside until all danger of
frost has passed. They can grace a deck,
patio or porch or you can sink their containers into a garden bed.
Bougainvillea
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| Bougainvillea- pixabay.com |
Bougainvillea’s are plants
of the south that have found new use as patio and hanging basket plants in the
north. Look for dwarf shrub forms or
small compact vine forms that can spill out of baskets. Older varieties meant for the southern
landscape can get too large for containers. There are numerous bold colors in
bougainvillea flowers and if kept in full sun, watered and fertilized regularly
they will bloom throughout the summer.
There is no fragrance. Most
bougainvillea’s make decent houseplants in winter and there are several
varieties with variegated leaves which make them more attractive when not
blooming. ‘Blueberry Ice’ makes a nice basket with purple–pink flowers and
white variegated leaves. ‘Vera Purple’ actually has flowers more
red than purple and forms a small shrub, great for containers. ‘Double Red’ is true red with fluffy
looking flowers which you can train as a vine or let cascade out of containers.
Gingers, Ginger lily
wikimedia%2Bcommons.jpg) |
| Red Ginger, Alpinia purpurata - Wikimedia commons |
Plants called gingers or
ginger lilies come from several species. Hedychium
coronarium, Hedychium densiflorum, H. gardnerianum , Alpinia purpurata, and various hybrids. Most are excellent tropical container plants
both for patios and decks and indoors.
The foliage in itself is often quite attractive, generally broad, thick,
upright leaves, sometimes red tinged. Flowers
are born in spikes of tubular flowers, they come in various colors, red,
yellow, orange, white and some ginger lilies have a spicy scent. The flowers
attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Be
aware that gingers grow quickly and some varieties may reach 6 feet tall.
Gingers will grow in sun to
semi-shade outdoors, they need bright light indoors. They should be kept moist and fertilized
regularly. Some species can be allowed
to go dormant when cold weather arrives and the tuber stored like canna tubers.
Allamanda ( Allamanda carthartica)
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| Allamanda. commons.wikimedia.com |
Allamanda is another
southern vining plant that has been transformed into more compact varieties
suitable for baskets and containers. Look for varieties such as ‘Golden Butterfly’. They have large,
golden, trumpet shaped flowers that will cover the plant and the flowers have a
mild pleasing scent. It will bloom all year long if high light and warm
conditions can be provided in winter. You may need several plants to create a full
look in a container.
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| Iochroma Leonora Enking, wikimedia commons |
Iochroma ( many species and hybrids)
Iochromas are related to
brugmansia and are sometimes called “mini- angel’s trumpets”. They have large broad leaves similar to
brugmansia and the plant grows to about 3 feet tall. The Iochroma flowers are long and tubular
with a slight flare at the bottom and are very attractive to hummingbirds. The flowers come in shades of red, orange and
purple and several named varieties are on the market. If kept in full sun, watered and fertilized
regularly they make an excellent potted plant on the patio so you can watch
hummingbirds. Be aware that small plants
may not bloom the first year. Warning-
all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Lofos, (Lophospermum scandens)
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| Lofos wikimedia commons |
Jamaican Lady of the Night (Brunfelsia jamaicensis)
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| Jamaican Lady of the Night www.Logees.com |
This exotic endangered plant has beautiful creamy white, frilly flowers with an intense, rich pleasant scent that becomes stronger at night. In its native Jamaican mountains it attracts night pollinating moths, and it may attract them here too. It will bloom all summer if kept in full sun to partial shade and fertilized regularly. Indoors keep it warm, above 60 degrees, and in bright light over winter. It grows as a shrub-like plant up to 3 feet tall.
Jasmines
There are actually several
species of plants that have the common name Jasmine and what they generally
have in common is a delightful fragrance.
Hardy Jasmine (Jasminum officinale) is a vine with intoxicatingly sweet
smelling white flowers, which will appear all summer if the plant has its needs
met. It is winter hardy to zone 7 and
some zone 6 gardeners have over wintered it in sheltered areas but I wouldn’t
count on that. It does need colder
winter temperatures to set flower buds however. Overwinter it in an unheated
room that gets to about freezing or slightly below for a couple months then
bring it inside to a warmer place and enjoy an early start to the flowering
season. It requires full sun.
Night blooming Jasmine
(Cestrum nocturnum) is a true tropical which makes an excellent house plant or
patio plant. It has a bush form that
gets about 2 feet high with glossy green oval leaves. It can be pruned to maintain a pleasing
shape. As indicated by the name it
blooms at night, turning the night air on your patio into a fragrant tropical
breeze. The Night Blooming Jasmine has small greenish white tubular
flowers. It needs full sun and moderate
fertilization. Keep it in conditions
above 45 degrees.
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| Hardy Jasmine Pixabay.com |
Jasminum sambuc comes in
several named varieties, ‘Grand Duke of
Tuscany’ has double white flowers that look like small camellias. Most other varities have small single white
flowers. J. sambuc is a small shrub, easily
kept in containers, that will bloom all year if treated right. It will fill the
air with it’s rich, sweet perfume. In
Asia a fragrant tea is made from the blossoms of this Jasmine. J. sambuc needs full sun, a warm location and
regular fertilization to thrive.
There are several other
Jasmines that you may find for sale. A
yellow flowered jasmine, (Jasminum humile) is offered in some catalogs. Confederate Jasmine or Star Jasmine
(Trachelopermum jasminoides) is a vine that’s hardy to zone 7 and should be
treated like Jasmine officinale, with a winter cold period. It too has white fragrant flowers.
White Champaca (Michelia alba)
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| Michelia alba pixabay.com |
This plant is related to
magnolias, but unlike magnolias it will bloom almost continuously when it’s
mature and happy in its spot. The white or yellow star-like flowers are intensely
fragrant. Grafted plants bloom earlier
and more profusely. The plant forms a
tree or shrub like form that can be kept pruned for indoor growing. The broad leaves are attractive also. It will tolerate cool nights but not freezing
so must be moved inside for winter. It
requires full sun and if kept well watered it will bloom happily on the deck or
patio all summer.
Medinilla (medinilla magnifica)
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| Medinilla commons.wikipedia |
Like the poinsettia the
showy pink Medinillia flowers are mostly bracts, surrounding clusters of pink
blooms that dangle from deeper pink stems and last for weeks. Plants bloom from
spring to mid-summer. This epiphyte has broad, deep green leaves with prominent
veins and container plants can get 3 feet tall and wide. It needs warmth and
since it’s an epiphyte, a light soil mix with little fertilizer. Light shade outdoors and strong light indoors
are needed. It makes an excellent patio
container plant and a good houseplant.
Hanging Lobster Claw, Heliconia rostrate)
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| Hanging Lobster Claw I.Kenpei wikimedia commons |
This plant is being featured
in many garden catalogs this spring. You may need to be patient to get it to
bloom as plants need to be 4-5 feet tall to start blooming and you will need a
large spot to over winter the plant.
Smaller plants are being offered and may not bloom the first year. However once it is in bloom the plant is
quite spectacular and they are often featured in tropical conservatories. The showy parts of the flower are actually
flower bracts with the true tiny flowers tucked inside. The bracts are red and
yellow and dangle in “chains” up to 3 feet long. They do resemble lobster claws if you
squint. The plant needs partial shade
outdoors, bright light inside. It needs
a good fertilization schedule and ample watering to bloom frequently. It can be pruned to remain small enough to
move inside.
Giant Potato Tree, Potato flower, (Solanum wrightii)
This is another unusual
plant being featured in many catalogs this year. Its related to potatoes and eggplant, and if
you have seen their flowers you’ll know what Potato Tree flowers look like,
except in this plant the flowers are larger, about 2-3 inches wide, and more
numerous. They begin purple and fade to
a rosy white and the plant is quite showy in bloom. Potato tree does not produce edible
tubers.
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| Giant Potato Tree growing outside Berichard, wikimedia commons |
Potato Tree’s leaves are
similar to eggplant leaves, and the plants have an upright, bush like growth
pattern. They can grow to 6 feet tall in
good conditions. Brought indoors as a
container plant they will continue to bloom sporadically through the
winter. They need full sun, plenty of
water and regular fertilization. Seeds
are being offered but plants grown from cuttings tend to have a better shape
and are quicker to bloom as well as having more flowers. Warning-
all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Tropaeolum tuberosum,
This plant is related to
nasturtiums and while not hardy here, comes from the Andes, Bolivia and
Peru. It is a vining plant with
attractive gray-green deeply
lobed foliage.
The small flowers of yellow, orange, or red are tubular with a flare of
petals at the end. It will bloom from midsummer to frost. Start the interesting yellow and maroon
tubers inside in a warm spot in March.
After danger of frost they can be planted in the ground near a trellis
or fence, or in a container with a support. They can also be planted in hanging
baskets. They need full sun and regular
feeding. The tubers can be stored like
glads or begonias through the winter.
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| Tropaeolum tuberosum commons.wikipedia |
Gloriosa- Glory Lily
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| Gloriosa Lily en.wikimedia.com |
This gorgeous flowering vine
should be started indoors in a warm spot about March. It’s sold as a tuber or potted
plant. Plants start blooming when vines
are about three feet long and are covered with beautiful crimson and gold
flowers that can be 5 inches long and are reminiscent of tiger lilies. There are also yellow colored varieties. You can grow this vine in a large hanging
basket or train them on a trellis in a container. It can also be planted in the ground near a
fence or suitable structure. It likes
full sun. Glory lily is stored as
dormant bulbs in the winter, just like canna or glads.
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| Amazon Lily en.wikimedia.com |
This tropical lily can be planted in containers for summer bloom and it makes a great winter houseplant too. Shiny green foliage growing about 18 inches high supports periodical spikes of pure white waxy flowers that have a delightful scent. Letting the soil in the pot get fairly dry for a month and then resuming regular watering will promote blooming. It likes regular fertilization and should be placed in light shade outdoors, bright light indoors.
Forcing spring flowers
Michigan winters can be long
and gloomy and you may be longing for those first spring flowers. You can cheat
a little and get that spring feeling simply by forcing some flowering branches
into bloom early. They make a
delightful bouquet to lift the winter spirits.
By the time March arrives
most Michigan plants have had enough dormancy chilling so that a spell of warm
weather can quickly bring them into bloom.
By bringing branches of flowering plants into warm rooms we can hurry
the process along. Not every plant can
be forced into bloom; it’s the branches of woody ornamental plants that bloom
in early spring that can give you those perky blooms.
Good plants to try are
forsythia, flowering quince, crabapples, flowering almond, redbud, flowering
dogwoods, spirea, and branches from most fruit trees such as apricot, peach,
apple, cherry, plum and pears. Branches
of pussy willow can provide fuzzy catkins.
You may even want to add some branches that add green (or other colored)
leaves to your bouquet. Maples and
willows for example, have many leaf color variations that can be a pleasing
touch. Magnolias and lilacs can be
tried, but it takes longer for them to bloom inside and success isn’t a sure
thing.
Use nice sharp pruning
shears to get pieces of woody plants that are the right size for your
vase. Use care not to destroy the shape
of the plant you are cutting from. Get permission to cut branches from the
trees or shrubs if they don’t belong to you.
Make your cuts on a slant
just above a bud on a branch. This is so
a long bare stub won’t be left on the plant.
You are looking for branches with flower buds, which are generally
fatter than leaf buds. If you are in
doubt take a thumbnail and cut a bud open, you should be able to tell whether
petals or leaves are hidden inside. Of
course as stated above, some leaves may be desirable additions to the vase.
Bring your cut branches into
the house and remove any buds along the branch that will be underwater in your
vase. You may want to crush the bottom of
heavier branches so they take up water better.
Place the branches in a vase of warm water. Put them in a cooler area of the home- 55- 65
degrees F would be ideal - (it will feel warm to them). Put them in good light but not in a sunny
window. Keep the vase full enough that
the bottoms of the stems are never above the water level. If any stem is out of water for more than a
few minutes it should have a new cut made at the bottom. If the water begins to smell, dump it and add
fresh water.
When the plants begin to bloom
you can move them to a place where you want to display them. Blooming may take anywhere from a few days to
2 weeks depending on the plant and the conditions. You should notice the buds swelling and
beginning to show color as time progresses.
If after two weeks you notice no swelling or signs of life you may have
chosen dead branches or branches from plants that don’t respond to this type of
stimulus. Discard those branches.
The blooms will last about a
week. They will be larger and last
longer in cooler temperatures. Taking cuttings every few days can prolong the
time you have stems in bloom. Once warm
weather begins to arrive outside, stems may only need a day or two to break
into bloom inside.
Forcing some spring
flowering plants into bloom early is a fast track to spring. It’s quick and easy to do, even though it may
mean a trip outside into bitter winter weather.
So bundle up and get rid of that cabin fever by taking a walk outside to
get some branches to force into bloom. You’ll
be pleased you did it.
How to grow peas
In the spring nothing tastes
better than fresh green peas whether you eat them fresh from the pod or cook
them. Peas are an easy garden crop for
Michigan gardeners and grow early enough that the garden spot they grew in can
be used for another type of vegetable later in the season. April is an excellent month to plant peas in
Michigan but you can plant them until about May 15 and still get a crop.
There are two basic kinds of
peas, those you shell to eat the peas and those that you eat the pod with the
peas. The edible pod peas are often
called snow peas or oriental peas. Shell
peas are often called English peas.
Another type of pea is the sugar snap pea, in which you eat both the pod
and slightly larger than snow pea size peas inside.
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| Snow peas en.wikimedia.com |
Good shell pea varieties for
planting in Michigan include: Wando, Lincoln, Thomas Laxton, Karina, and
Legacy. Edible pod varieties suggested
are: Oregon Sugar, Mammoth Melting and Sugar Sprint. You may want to purchase inoculated seed or
buy a package of inoculant. Pea seeds
can be inoculated with a naturally occurring soil bacteria that helps them
convert nitrogen from the air and gets them off to a faster start in cold soil. It is a natural product and won’t affect any
organic growing plans that you have.
All types of peas are
planted the same way, as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. Don’t worry about frost coming after you have
planted them- peas are a cool season crop and will do just fine. You can speed germination if you soak pea
seeds in warm water for a couple of hours before planting. Plant your peas about an inch deep and 3
inches apart. Any type of soil will do,
as long as it drains well. A sandy loam
area works better in the spring than heavy clay if you have a choice.
All peas need something to
climb on, (there are so called bush peas but they flop over and also need
support), so add some kind of trellis for peas when you plant them. Traditionally small branches are stuck in the
ground, called pea brush, for the vines to climb. Branches at least as big as a pencil in
diameter and 4 feet high are needed.
These are stuck into the ground around the peas so that they hold each
other up.
If you want something a bit
neater looking use a piece of wire fence attached to posts, with the peas
planted in front of it. You may have to
wind a wayward vine into the fence at the beginning of growth but most pea
vines will readily climb onto a fence.
If you have a fence around your garden, you can plant peas in front of
it.
How many peas to plant will
depend on whether you just want fresh eating peas or if you want to can or
freeze peas. For a family of 4 who just
wants fresh peas a 6-8 foot row or 20 -30 plants is probably enough. Double or triple that amount if you want peas
for canning or freezing.
Peas have nodules on their
roots that take nitrogen from the air.
Fertilization isn’t generally needed for peas. They will appreciate regular watering if
spring is dry. If an inch of rain
doesn’t fall during a week they will need you to water them. After the peas are 3 inches high mulch them
with straw, chopped leaves or compost to keep the soil cool and moist.
Peas will begin blooming 6-8
weeks after they come up, depending on the weather and variety. When you see blooms start watching for pea
pods as they form and grow quickly. Pick
edible pod peas when the seeds inside the pod are barely visible bumps and the
pods are still flat. You can shell the
peas and eat them like regular peas if you let them get too large.
Pick shell type and sugar
snap peas young too, when the peas inside are still tiny and tender. Split the pod with your fingernail and use
your thumb to push the shell peas out into a bowl.
Keep all kinds of peas
picked and don’t let pods get large and start to dry out. If too many pods start maturing the pea plant
will stop producing peas. If you keep
the pods picked while they are young and the weather is cool and moist you will
probably get a month of harvest time.
Peas have few insect pests
or diseases. They are favorites of
rabbits and deer however and may need to be protected.
Pick peas just before you
want to use them or freeze them. After
they are picked the sugar in them quickly starts to turn to starch and your
peas will not be as tasty as truly fresh peas. If there are more than you can
eat, freeze the excess.
Peas don’t like hot weather
and will naturally die back when the weather starts getting above 80 degrees
every day. When that happens, pull the
vines and put them on the compost pile and plant something in their place, like
cucumbers if you leave the trellis up or even corn, which will appreciate the
nitrogen the peas left in the soil.
If you didn’t get enough
peas in the spring you can plant a fall crop of peas. Plant this crop about the end of July. They’ll start maturing as the weather gets
cooler. Make sure to keep them mulched
and watered at this time of the year.
The first day of spring is one thing, and the first spring day is
another. The difference between them is sometimes as great as a month. ~Henry
Van Dyke
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
More Information
Secrets to success when propagating succulent plants
Create more from existing succulent
plants through successful propagation.
Posted on February 13, 2015 by
Gretchen Voyle, Michigan State University Extension
Succulents are a favorite group of plants for many
indoor gardeners. Succulents and cacti are part of the same succulent family.
They have the advantage of growing slowly, requiring minimum care and not
outgrowing their locations rapidly. They are simple plants; they require direct
sun, well-draining soil and rarely, if ever, need to be fertilized. Sandy soils
are best. It is possible to purchase cactus mixes that are sandy with a bit of
gravel. A great deal of organic matter is not necessary. Watering is done
occasionally. When you think of the origin of these plants, a hot, dry climate
with lean soils and not a great deal of rainfall give you the framework of what
they expect.
Succulents can be propagated in several ways. It is
unusual for them to bloom and then produce viable seeds. The usual way is called
vegetative propagation. It is essentially creating a clone from the original
plant.
Division or separation
Many succulents multiply themselves through division,
but some cacti will have small plants appear along the ribs or leaf edges of
the plant. When the plantlets are big enough to handle easily, they can be
removed. (See the section below about callusing because of the wound created
when they are separated.)
.JPG) |
| Echeveria Topsy Turvy |
With division of other succulents, little plants come
up surrounding the parent plant when it is mature. Eventually, more little
plants come up and surround the larger surrounding plants and the container is
filled. The plant and soil can be taken from the pot and the small plants
gently removed. Water the plant well before taking it out of the container so
more soil will adhere to the roots. There needs to be roots on the small plants
for them to grow. If they are without roots, it may take a long time for roots
to form. Pot the little ones in containers. If the little plants are without
roots or they broke off, see the information below on callusing.
Cuttings and callusing
A few succulents can be propagated by taking cuttings
off the original plant. Sometimes it is because the plant has been damaged or a
misplaced elbow and an unceremonious freefall to the floor. Unfortunately, the
broken part will not repair and grow again, but the broken segment can be used
to generate another plant. The important part is that the broken piece cannot
be potted up immediately. It needs a period of time to dry or “callus.”
If the freshly cut piece comes in contact with damp
soil, it will rot. Michigan State University Extension recommends letting the
cuttings sit for a few days or longer for big pieces. After a period of time,
the damp, broken area forms a tough skin or callus over the tissue. The
callused plant part can be placed in slightly damp soil. Embed the piece very
shallowly. If it is placed too deeply, it will not grow. It may be necessary to
support the small plant by having it lean on a craft stick or tongue depressor
or against the side of the container. It often takes many months for succulents
to form roots. Do not place small plants on a cold window sill or close to a
cold window because it will take even longer to grow roots. If a full grown leaf
or branch is broken off a succulent like Haworthia or Euphorbia after
callusing, it could grow roots. However, if the leaf is broken off Aloe vera,
it will not.
There are enough differences in the world of succulents
that one size or one rule does not fit all. Smart Gardeners are discovering
this continually when learning about plants. Invite a succulent home. They make
mannerly and attractive houseguests.
This article was published by
Michigan State University Extension.
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share?
Post them here by emailing me. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
Attention Beekeepers!!! We are looking for individuals to
participate with a state-wide apiary registry. We are currently developing the
website/database for this project and we are looking for beekeepers who will
come in on the ground floor of this project and help us get it launched. Not
asking for any money, only your time and/or input. Please send us an e-mail if
you are interested in helping the bees or want to know more.
In specific, we are
looking for people with beekeeping experience to be board members for the
organization, inspectors for different areas around Michigan and volunteers to
help us get the word out at different clubs, festivals, etc. Please consider
helping us and the bees too! Visit our website and let us know if you can help!
www.MichiganApiaryRegistry.org
New- Here’s a link to all the spring programs being
offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/
New- Woodland Treasures
for the Shade Garden Fri, March 27, 10am, Meadow Brook Hall, Rochester, MI
How to use shade
plants to extend the flowering season. Sponsored by Meadow Brook Garden Club.
$5. MBHGCMembers@gmail.com.
New- Trees for
Tomorrow: Planting & Maintaining Healthy Trees, beginning March 30, 6:30-8:30pm,
Pleasant Ridge Community Center , Pleasant Ridge, MI
This is a 5 week
series sponsored by SOCWA. The $40. Fee
includes a class reference book. You
must register by Feb 23rd by
calling 248-546-5818.
ABC’s of Growing Herbs Sat, March 7, 1pm, all locations of
English Gardens, see below.
Herbs are easy to
grow in your garden & do wonders for enhancing your meals. Get tips on the
best varieties. Class is free.
Sign up in-store or
on-line: www.EnglishGardens.com. Locations:
Ann Arbor, Maple Village Shopping Center, 155 N. Maple Rd., Ann Arbor,
Phone: (734) 332-7900, Clinton Township, 44850 Garfield Rd. at Hall Rd.,
Clinton Twp., MI, Phone: (586) 286-6100, Dearborn Heights, 22650 Ford Rd.,
Dearborn Heights, MI Nursery: (313)
278-4433, Eastpointe, 22501 Kelly Rd., Eastpointe, MI, Phone: (586) 771-4200,
Royal Oak, 4901 Coolidge Hwy, Royal Oak, MI , Phone: (248) 280-9500, West
Bloomfield, 6370 Orchard Lake Rd., West Bloomfield, MI, Phone: (248) 851-7506
Wonderful World & Folklore of
Cabbage, Thursday, March 12, 7pm, Kulick Community Ctr., Ferndale, MI
Sponsored by the
Ferndale Garden Club and presented by Virginia Froehlich. Guests are welcome. For more information call 248-398-6283.
7th Annual Growing Great Gardens, Sat, March 14, 8am-4pm, Wayne Co.
Community College, 21000 Northline, Taylor, MI
Presented in
partnership with the Taylor Garden Club, Taylor Conservatory Foundation and
Wayne County Community College District, this garden seminar features 4
presentations, the latest in garden trends, door prizes, lunch, shopping &
more. Cost is $35 before Mar 2, $45
after. Sign up for a bonus class with
Janet Macunovich, “Lunch & Learn- Fine Pruning in the Landscape”, just $10
additional. Registration Forms
@taylorconservatory.org Or @taylorgardenclub.com or email pk48180@yahoo.com Or phone
313-715-8316
Great Lakes Region American Hosta
Society / Hosta College 2015, Friday evening, March 20th and Saturday March 21st , Upper Valley Career Center, 8811
Career Drive, Piqua, Ohio.
At this conference
there is a rare plant auction starting at 6 pm Friday evening and on Saturday,
beginning at 8 am participants will attend 5 classes from a list of 70 to
choose from. There is a big vendor’s
area and a buffet luncheon is included.
In the evening there is a banquet.
Cost is $42 for members, $55 for non-members.
Further
information: http://www.ihostohio.org/portal/glhc/
To register http://www.ihostohio.org/portal/glhc/
17th Annual Conference ASSOCIATION OF
PROFESSIONAL GARDENERS Saturday, March 7, 2015, 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
Waldenwoods Banquet and Conference Center, 2975 Old US-23, Hartland MI.
Drawing Inspiration from Japanese
Garden Design
Our Guest Presenter for the day will be Greg Afman,
Head Horticulturist for the Japanese Garden at Frederik Meijer Gardens in Grand
Rapids, Michigan. This phenomenal new garden will debut in June 2015, and as
part of his presentation, Greg will share a first-hand review of its
progress. Greg is a knowledgeable,
enthusiastic, and engaging speaker, whom we discovered last August, when he led
APG members on a tour of the future Japanese Garden.
His presentations
will cover:
The Evolution of the
Japanese Garden
Applying Japanese
Aesthetics to your Garden - This presentation conveys how Japanese design
principles are universally applicable to all gardens especially here in
Michigan.
Create Your Own
Bonsai Planter - In the afternoon Greg will facilitate a hands-on workshop, in
which all Conference attendees will create and take home their own Bonsai. All materials will be supplied with the exception
of wire cutters and a small pair of scissors or pruners, which we ask you to
bring.
Cost: APG Member
$60; Non-member $80. Includes Continental breakfast, lunch, conference materials,
and workshop supplies. Registration Deadline: Friday, February 20, 2015.
Seating is limited, so please register early! Registration at link below or
call/email Sue Grubba, president, (248) 535-4940, or suegrubba@sbcglobal.net
Backyard Fruit Tree Pruning Workshop Saturday morning, March 28, 2015
from 10am to 12:30pm, Greater Holy Temple C.O.G.I.C. , 6702 N. Dort Hwy, Flint,
MI
Bob Tritten, MSUE
District Fruit Educator will give an outdoor demonstration workshop at two
community orchards. We will also visit the Uni-Corn Community Garden to cover
pruning of older fruit trees. Participants will learn the basic methods of
pruning young and bearing fruit trees. Pre-registration required by 3/25/15. Workshop
to be held rain or shine (walking required)
Contact: Deb Hamilton
at 810-244-8547 or email: hamiltod@anr.msu.edu Cost per person: $10.00 Make check
payable to edible flint Mail to: MSU Extension, 605 N. Saginaw Street, Suite
1A, Flint, MI 48502. Please include
NAME, ADDRESS, PHONE # AND EMAIL ADDRESS.
Spring 2015 Symposium by the Master
Gardeners of St. Clair County, Saturday, March 21, 2015 - 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m., Cornerstone Church, 4025 North Road, Clyde,
MI 48049 - (Two miles west of Port Huron, MI)
Keynote speaker
Sean Hogan Portland,
OR. Cistus Nursery. Class topics:
Richard Bitner- “Designing with
Conifers”, Panayoti Kelaidis, “Rockgardens”,
Susan Betz: “Magical Moons &
Seasonal Circles”, Sean Hogan: “More Than Meets the Eye”.
Early bird
registration: $80.00, includes all speakers, continental breakfast, lunch, and
snack break. Late registration,(after February 20, 2015), $90.00. Make check
payable to MGSCC (Master Gardeners of St. Clair County) Checks or money orders
only, to be cashed upon arrival in the mail – no refunds can be made after
February 20.
Mail registration
to: Sandy Billings, 99 Richman Rd., St. Clair, MI 48079, call Sandy at (810)
367-3399; E-mail: sanderan51@yahoo.com or Lisa Sharrow at (810) 329-3722. More
information and Registration forms are also online at www.mgoscc.org
The MSU Hort Club 2015 Spring Show
and Plant Sale Saturday April 18th 2014, 9am-6pm and Sunday April
19th 2014, 10am- 4pm located in the head house of the Plant and Soil Sciences
Building (PSS) at Michigan State University, 1600 Bogue St, East Lansing (located
on the corner of Wilson and Bogue.)
No information is
given about what the show entails or whether there is a fee to enter but if you
want to see the list of plants they are selling you can go here.
There is parking in
the 4H Children’s garden parking lot just south of the PSS bldg, in the vet med
lot across Bogue and the Horticulture Department lot to the west of PSS.
(*Note: locations are marked on the map with 'Parking') Be sure to read parking
signs as parking tickets are common on MSU's campus. Please enter through
either the south door of the head house or through the greenhouses.
MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring
Program: Can You Dig It?, May 2, 2015 8
a.m. - 4 p.m., Plant and Soil
Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue Street, East Lansing, MI
Sessions include: Woodland wonders from the wild, Art
of Gardening, Joy of Propagation,
Cultivating the recipe garden, lunch from Grand Traverse Pie Company
included. Rare plant sales. Early registration (on or before April 21)
for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $69 Early registration (on or before April
21) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $79 Registrations received after
April 21 $89
Register
online: http://events.anr.msu.edu/register.cfm?eventID=F981110CAB81205F®isProcessID=78A6375F6399E682
Contact:
517-353-0443, hgardens@msu.edu.
Gardening and All That Jazz –
Innovation and Sustainability For Your Garden, Saturday, April 25, 2015 – 7 am –
4:15 pm, Oakland Schools Conference Center 2111 Pontiac Lake Road, Waterford
Sessions
include: Will Allen – Growing Power and the Good Food Revolution: A visual
story of how Growing Power came to be and of Will Allen’s personal journey, the
lives he has touched, and a grassroots movement that is changing the way our
nation eats., Will Allen – How To Put “Growing Power” in Your Backyard: How to
make your own compost bin, outdoor and indoor worm bins and raised beds.
Matthew Benson – Growing Beautiful Food: Cultivating the Incredible, Edible
Garden - Kerry Ann Mendez – Gardening Simplified for Changing Lifestyle:
Exceptional Plants and Design Solutions for Aging and Time-pressed Gardeners
Lunch and snacks
included in cost. Garden marketplace and
jazz musicians. Early Bloomers Registration Fee: $70 After March 14, 2015 Fee:
$80 Registration at the door is not available. Registration Deadline:
Wednesday, April 20, 2015 Registr by
going to http://www.mgsoc.org/2015Conference_registration.pdf
For more info: Nancy Strodl, Phone:
248-552-5095, E-mail: nancy_strodl@comcast.net
Horticultural Therapy: Connecting
People and Plants-March 13, 2015 - March 14, 2015 Plant and Soil Sciences
Building, 1066 Bogue St., East Lansing, MI 48824
The Michigan
Horticultural Therapy Association is excited to present two events 36th Annual
Conference ‒ Friday, March 13, 8:30 a.m. ‒ 4 p.m. and a workshop ‒ Saturday, March
14, 8:30 a.m. ‒ 12:30 p.m. in conjunction with Agriculture and Natural
Resources Week at Michigan State University. Join us for presentations,
networking, vendors, books sales and more as we learn more about using
horticulture as therapy.
For complete program
and registration information, go to www.michiganhta.org or contact Cathy Flinton at cathy@michiganhta.org.
Michigan Herb Associates Annual
Conference- March 13, 2015 - March 14, 2015 Eppley Center and Business College
Complex/Kellogg Hotel and Conference Center, MSU Campus, East Lansing MI.
The theme of the
28th annual Michigan Herb Associates (MHA) Conference is “Sensational Savory.”
The Michigan State University (MSU) Department of Horticulture and Michigan
Herb Associates sponsor the conference. The two-day MHA conference is filled
with programs of interest to beginning and advanced herb gardeners and crafters
who enjoy growing and using herbs as a hobby.
Lectures and
demonstrations will take place at the Eppley Center and Business College
Complex. A market of vendors will offer herbal plants and topiaries, herbal
food-related items, decorative garden ornaments and jewelry, and many other
gift items. MHA will have a small gift shop along with speaker book sales and
signings. A live plant auction will take place Friday and Saturday.
Organic Farming Intensives Initiative
Classes March 12, 2015 - 9 am- 4 pm - Michigan State University, Brody Complex, East
Lansing MI.
The Organic Farming
Intensives Initiative will offer three to four all-day classes of single topics
with a focus on organic farming. Possible topics include vegetable production,
fruit tree management, soil health, transplants, pest management, farm-plan
building and organic certification.
For more
information, contact Vicki Morrone at sorrone@msu.edu or 517-282-3557. To learn more about
the Organic Farming Exchange, visit http://www.michiganorganic.msu.edu/.
Michigan Beekeepers Association
Spring Conference Friday, March 13, 2015 and Saturday, March 14, 2015 at the
Kellogg Center on the Michigan State University campus, East Lansing, Mi.
There will be
break-out sessions on both days covering a wide range of topics that should be
of interest for both the beginner and advanced beekeeper alike. And, of course, the ever-popular vendor area
will be back so that you can see all of the latest beekeeping equipment in one
place. Also, this year we will be
expanding the vendors to include a “beekeeping” trade show. The trade show will feature major
manufacturers of beekeeping equipment and gear.
Here will be your opportunity to see what’s new in the beekeeping world
and meet the folks who actually make your stuff!
Pre-registration is
available on-line and we encourage all attendees to do so. When you pre-register you get a discount
too! We encourage all conference
attendees to pre-register. If you
pre-pay when you pre-register, your conference material will be available for
immediate pick-up… no waiting in line.
For more information go to http://www.michiganbees.org/2015-spring-conference/
MSU Tollgate Maple Tapping and
Pancake Celebration March 15, 2015-10 a.m. - 12 p.m. or 1 - 3 p.m. 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI,
Celebrate
the Maple Tapping Season with Pancakes at MSU Tollgate! With a full-on pancake
breakfast or lunch!
Identify
and tap a maple tree, tour the sugar shack with ongoing evaporation, take a
wagon ride, taste maple syrup, and tackle historical tools! Prior to the 2-hour
program, enjoy a pancake celebration in the historic, 19th-century barn.
Pancakes, coffee, cocoa, and of course, real maple syrup will be provided!
Eat your
fill of yummy food and grab a cup of coffee 9 - 10 a.m. before your 2-hour
program. Enjoy entertainment in the 19th century barn while you eat and relax.
Need to
sleep in? Join us at 12 p.m. for a pancake lunch before heading out to the
sugar bush at 1 p.m.
Cost is
$12.00 per person. If cancellations are needed, please do so before March 11,
2015, to avoid cancellation fee of $5 per person registered.
The last
day to register online is March 11, 2015.
Grand Rapids Smart Gardening
Conference March 7, 2015- 8:30 a.m. - 4 p.m., Monroe Meeting Rooms DeVos Place, Grand Rapids,
Michigan
Classes include: “Smart Design of the Living
Landscape-Putting back the Layers”, Rick Darke, “Tapping the Smart Gardener’s
Work Force—Predators, Parasitoids and Pollinators!”, Elly Maxwell, Entomologist,
Dow Gardens, Vegetable Potpourri for the Smart Gardener”, Rebecca Krans, “Grow
More with Less-a Smart Approach to Gardening!”, Vincent Simeone Horticulturist,
Author, Lecturer, Oyster Bay, New York.
Cost: Early Bird Registration by Feb. 13 - $59 Late Registration - $70 Must pre-register. Enrollment
deadline is Friday, Feb. 27, 2015 or until full. More info and online
registration http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=smartgardening2015 or
Contact: finneran@msu.edu, 616-632-7865
28th ANNUAL MICHIGAN WILDFLOWER
CONFERENCE- Sunday
March 8 and Monday March 9, 2015- Kellogg Hotel & Conference Center , MSU
campus, East Lansing MI.
$65 for one
day, $120 for both until 2/25/2015, after that $75 and $140. WAM membership required, add $15. Laura Liebler, Registrar Phone:
734.662.2206
MSU offered a variety of on line
seminars for those who were interested in beginning farming topics of various
types. Some of those are now available
free to watch at the address below.
Gardeners may be interested in topics like organic pest control. Get the list of topics and links here.
Conifer Propagation Seminar at Hidden Lake
Gardens, March 7, 2015 – 9am – 4pm, 6214 Monroe Road (M-50),Tipton, MI
Join us
as we share what we know about some of the rare plants of the Harper Collection
of Dwarf and Rare Conifers. Now condensed into one day!
Learn
the art and science of making more conifers (cone-bearing plants). Staff and
volunteers will share their extensive knowledge and experience on the nuances
of propagation. Seminar includes:
Hands-on
grafting of 6 different plants*
Cuttings
of at least 16 plants*
Lunch,
and
Tour of
Harper Collection or propagation facility
*
Species will likely include Thuja, Juniperus, Pinus, Picea, and Abies.
Extensive care instructions provided.
Designed
for the beginning propagator, this seminar will share techniques even
experienced propagators will appreciate. Advance registration is required, but
experience is not.
Cost:
$100 per person early registration ($90 per person for Friends of HLG) $125 per
person after Feb 21. Registration is limited and will close on March 1st.
Registration is required. Hidden Lake Gardens - www.HiddenLakeGardens.msu.edu (517)
431-2060
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
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You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
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Once again the
opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or
business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I
love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my
research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture.
It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to
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