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Tuesday, March 3, 2015

March 3, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

March 3, 2015 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hello Gardeners

The March flower is the daffodil- hope we see some in March!
It’s another stormy Tuesday.  It’s snowing quite well here but I am hoping the freezing rain will pass us by. I knew it was going to be a bad weather day by the way the birds are acting.  My chickens and ducks were staying on their roosts this morning.  The window outside my office looks like a scene from the movie “Birds”.  The ground is moving with the gray bodies of junco’s and I counted 8 cardinals at the feeders and nearby trees.  But the tree sparrows, goldfinches and house finches are swarming the feeders, dozens and dozens of them.  I filled the feeders last night in anticipation of the weather but those birds will have them emptied in no time.

While watching the birds I noticed a slightly larger sparrow –like bird and then I saw the two tiny black horns on its head.  Sure enough a quick look–up in my bird guide confirmed I was seeing a Horned Lark. He sat at the feeder for a good while. I have never seen one at a feeder, it must be the weather. 

I have a bit of spring fever.  I cleaned off the porch and brought in a bag of potting medium to thaw as I have a strong urge to start some seeds.  I just don’t know if the darned squirrels are going to let me plant anything out there.  They have almost completely eaten off my geraniums now and have been digging in other pots.  I have two traps set but they aren’t catching anything- these squirrels are smart. 

I want to get an early batch of romaine and leaf lettuce started this week.  If I get it going I should have salad by the end of April, when hopefully I’ll start my outside greens patch.  I may try a pot of sugar pod peas too, that would really attract the squirrels though.

It’s time to prune those fruit trees if you can get through the snow.  It’s been too cold to do it- at least for me- but I sense the time is coming when I can tolerate the weather long enough to prune.  Next weekend looks good- partly sunny and in the 30’s- I’ll take it. 

Remember daylight savings time starts Sunday, March 8th.  Spring those clocks ahead.

March almanac
The full moon in March (March 5th) is called the Worm moon, because earthworms once more make worm casts on the soil surface or Sap moon because the trees begin to produce sap again.  If we get lucky those things may occur this March.  Good days for planting above ground crops are the 22-23, 26-28th and good days for planting below ground crops are the 6-10th, 14-15, 18-19.

The most important date for all gardeners in March is, of course the first day of spring.  It’s March 20th.  That’s the date when the length of the day and the night are the same, the spring equinox. Of course Mother Nature does not follow our calendar and this year it looks like it may not be very spring like by that date although I fervently hope I am wrong.

Other important dates and holidays in March are: 7th – Employee Appreciation Day, 8th International Women’s day, 12th – Girl Scout Day and Plant a flower Day, the 13th is National popcorn day and the 14th National Potato chip day.  The 14th is also Learn about Butterflies day.

The 15th is the Ides of March.  In ancient Rome this was the beginning of the New Year and also of spring. The 17th is St. Patrick’s Day and the 18th is the Goddess of Fertility day.  The 19th is poultry day, the 20th is Earth Day although beware-it’s also Alien Abduction day.  The 25th is National Agriculture day as well as National Pecan day and National Waffle day.  The 30th is National Doctors day.

March is Irish American month as well as National Women’s History month, National Nutrition month, National Peanut month, National Craft Month and National Frozen Foods month. 

March’s birth flower is the daffodil or jonquil, the birthstone is aqua marine.

Exotic patio plants to try this summer

If you are a typical gardener you often have zone denial, which is you want to grow plants that aren’t winter hardy in your planting zone.  Tropical and semi-tropical plants often beckon us with their majestic forms, interesting foliage or beautiful flowers.  You can buy them, enjoy them through the summer and let them die when winter comes.  But many of these plants also make great houseplants or at least aren’t difficult to over winter.  And because some of these plants take more than one season to reach their full potential you’ll want to bring these plants inside for the winter.

In this article I am going to skip some of the common patio or tub plants like Chinese Hibiscus, palms, citrus and banana trees and talk about some less well known plants.  This is just a short description you may want to look up more detailed care, especially for expensive plants.  Most of these plants you will want to grow in containers so they can be moved inside before cold weather.  Don’t put them outside until all danger of frost has passed.  They can grace a deck, patio or porch or you can sink their containers into a garden bed.

Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea- pixabay.com
Bougainvillea’s are plants of the south that have found new use as patio and hanging basket plants in the north.  Look for dwarf shrub forms or small compact vine forms that can spill out of baskets.  Older varieties meant for the southern landscape can get too large for containers. There are numerous bold colors in bougainvillea flowers and if kept in full sun, watered and fertilized regularly they will bloom throughout the summer.  There is no fragrance.  Most bougainvillea’s make decent houseplants in winter and there are several varieties with variegated leaves which make them more attractive when not blooming.   ‘Blueberry Ice’ makes a nice basket with purple–pink flowers and white variegated leaves.  ‘Vera Purple’ actually has flowers more red than purple and forms a small shrub, great for containers. ‘Double Red’ is true red with fluffy looking flowers which you can train as a vine or let cascade out of containers.

Gingers, Ginger lily
Red Ginger, Alpinia purpurata -
Wikimedia commons
Plants called gingers or ginger lilies come from several species. Hedychium coronarium, Hedychium densiflorum, H. gardnerianum , Alpinia purpurata,  and various hybrids.  Most are excellent tropical container plants both for patios and decks and indoors.  The foliage in itself is often quite attractive, generally broad, thick, upright leaves, sometimes red tinged.  Flowers are born in spikes of tubular flowers, they come in various colors, red, yellow, orange, white and some ginger lilies have a spicy scent. The flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies.  Be aware that gingers grow quickly and some varieties may reach 6 feet tall.

Gingers will grow in sun to semi-shade outdoors, they need bright light indoors.  They should be kept moist and fertilized regularly.  Some species can be allowed to go dormant when cold weather arrives and the tuber stored like canna tubers.

Allamanda ( Allamanda carthartica)
Allamanda.
commons.wikimedia.com
Allamanda is another southern vining plant that has been transformed into more compact varieties suitable for baskets and containers. Look for varieties such as ‘Golden Butterfly’. They have large, golden, trumpet shaped flowers that will cover the plant and the flowers have a mild pleasing scent. It will bloom all year long if high light and warm conditions can be provided in winter.  You may need several plants to create a full look in a container. 


Iochroma
Leonora Enking, wikimedia commons


Iochroma ( many species and hybrids)
Iochromas are related to brugmansia and are sometimes called “mini- angel’s trumpets”.  They have large broad leaves similar to brugmansia and the plant grows to about 3 feet tall.  The Iochroma flowers are long and tubular with a slight flare at the bottom and are very attractive to hummingbirds.  The flowers come in shades of red, orange and purple and several named varieties are on the market.  If kept in full sun, watered and fertilized regularly they make an excellent potted plant on the patio so you can watch hummingbirds.  Be aware that small plants may not bloom the first year. Warning- all parts of the plant are poisonous.

Lofos, (Lophospermum scandens)
Lofos
wikimedia commons
Lofos are a vining plant usually grown in hanging baskets. When happy the exuberant plants are covered with showy tubular flowers in shades of purple, red and white. The flowers attract hummingbirds and some butterfly species.  Lofos will grow in full or partial sun.  They require frequent attention to watering and several fertilizations each season to keep blooming.  You may need to prune back growing tips to keep them in bounds. A drawback to keeping them inside overwinter is that they tend to drop leaves in low humidity and look scraggly.









 Jamaican Lady of the Night (Brunfelsia jamaicensis)
Jamaican Lady of the Night
www.Logees.com

This exotic endangered plant has beautiful creamy white, frilly flowers with an intense, rich pleasant scent that becomes stronger at night. In its native Jamaican mountains it attracts night pollinating moths, and it may attract them here too. It will bloom all summer if kept in full sun to partial shade and fertilized regularly.  Indoors keep it warm, above 60 degrees, and in bright light over winter.  It grows as a shrub-like plant up to 3 feet tall.



Jasmines
There are actually several species of plants that have the common name Jasmine and what they generally have in common is a delightful fragrance.  Hardy Jasmine (Jasminum officinale) is a vine with intoxicatingly sweet smelling white flowers, which will appear all summer if the plant has its needs met.  It is winter hardy to zone 7 and some zone 6 gardeners have over wintered it in sheltered areas but I wouldn’t count on that.  It does need colder winter temperatures to set flower buds however. Overwinter it in an unheated room that gets to about freezing or slightly below for a couple months then bring it inside to a warmer place and enjoy an early start to the flowering season.  It requires full sun.

Night blooming Jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum) is a true tropical which makes an excellent house plant or patio plant.  It has a bush form that gets about 2 feet high with glossy green oval leaves.  It can be pruned to maintain a pleasing shape.  As indicated by the name it blooms at night, turning the night air on your patio into a fragrant tropical breeze. The Night Blooming Jasmine has small greenish white tubular flowers.  It needs full sun and moderate fertilization.  Keep it in conditions above 45 degrees.

Hardy Jasmine
Pixabay.com
Orange Jasmine (Murraya paniculata) has a small tree form that looks rather like citrus.  It’s a slow grower and rarely reaches more than 2 feet high but it’s an early and prolific bloomer.  Orange Jasmine has clusters of tiny white flowers that smell like orange blossoms and can perfume the whole house or patio.  It’s also a tropical that needs temps above 45 degrees.  It prefers full sun and needs moisture and regular fertilization to keep flowering through most of the year.

Jasminum sambuc comes in several named varieties, ‘Grand Duke of Tuscany’ has double white flowers that look like small camellias.  Most other varities have small single white flowers.  J. sambuc is a small shrub, easily kept in containers, that will bloom all year if treated right. It will fill the air with it’s rich, sweet perfume.  In Asia a fragrant tea is made from the blossoms of this Jasmine.  J. sambuc needs full sun, a warm location and regular fertilization to thrive.

There are several other Jasmines that you may find for sale.  A yellow flowered jasmine, (Jasminum humile) is offered in some catalogs.  Confederate Jasmine or Star Jasmine (Trachelopermum jasminoides) is a vine that’s hardy to zone 7 and should be treated like Jasmine officinale, with a winter cold period.  It too has white fragrant flowers.

White Champaca (Michelia alba)
Michelia alba
pixabay.com 
This plant is related to magnolias, but unlike magnolias it will bloom almost continuously when it’s mature and happy in its spot. The white or yellow star-like flowers are intensely fragrant.  Grafted plants bloom earlier and more profusely.  The plant forms a tree or shrub like form that can be kept pruned for indoor growing.  The broad leaves are attractive also.  It will tolerate cool nights but not freezing so must be moved inside for winter.  It requires full sun and if kept well watered it will bloom happily on the deck or patio all summer.

Medinilla (medinilla magnifica)
Medinilla
commons.wikipedia
Like the poinsettia the showy pink Medinillia flowers are mostly bracts, surrounding clusters of pink blooms that dangle from deeper pink stems and last for weeks. Plants bloom from spring to mid-summer. This epiphyte has broad, deep green leaves with prominent veins and container plants can get 3 feet tall and wide. It needs warmth and since it’s an epiphyte, a light soil mix with little fertilizer.  Light shade outdoors and strong light indoors are needed.  It makes an excellent patio container plant and a good houseplant.

Hanging Lobster Claw, Heliconia rostrate)
Hanging Lobster Claw
I.Kenpei wikimedia commons
This plant is being featured in many garden catalogs this spring. You may need to be patient to get it to bloom as plants need to be 4-5 feet tall to start blooming and you will need a large spot to over winter the plant.  Smaller plants are being offered and may not bloom the first year.  However once it is in bloom the plant is quite spectacular and they are often featured in tropical conservatories.  The showy parts of the flower are actually flower bracts with the true tiny flowers tucked inside. The bracts are red and yellow and dangle in “chains” up to 3 feet long.  They do resemble lobster claws if you squint.  The plant needs partial shade outdoors, bright light inside.  It needs a good fertilization schedule and ample watering to bloom frequently.  It can be pruned to remain small enough to move inside.



Giant Potato Tree, Potato flower, (Solanum wrightii)
This is another unusual plant being featured in many catalogs this year.  Its related to potatoes and eggplant, and if you have seen their flowers you’ll know what Potato Tree flowers look like, except in this plant the flowers are larger, about 2-3 inches wide, and more numerous.  They begin purple and fade to a rosy white and the plant is quite showy in bloom.  Potato tree does not produce edible tubers. 

Giant Potato Tree growing outside
Berichard,  wikimedia commons
Potato Tree’s leaves are similar to eggplant leaves, and the plants have an upright, bush like growth pattern.  They can grow to 6 feet tall in good conditions.  Brought indoors as a container plant they will continue to bloom sporadically through the winter.  They need full sun, plenty of water and regular fertilization.  Seeds are being offered but plants grown from cuttings tend to have a better shape and are quicker to bloom as well as having more flowers.  Warning- all parts of the plant are poisonous.

Tropaeolum tuberosum,
This plant is related to nasturtiums and while not hardy here, comes from the Andes, Bolivia and Peru.  It is a vining plant with attractive gray-green deeply
Tropaeolum tuberosum
commons.wikipedia
lobed foliage.  The small flowers of yellow, orange, or red are tubular with a flare of petals at the end. It will bloom from midsummer to frost.  Start the interesting yellow and maroon tubers inside in a warm spot in March.  After danger of frost they can be planted in the ground near a trellis or fence, or in a container with a support. They can also be planted in hanging baskets.  They need full sun and regular feeding.  The tubers can be stored like glads or begonias through the winter.




Gloriosa- Glory Lily
Gloriosa Lily
en.wikimedia.com
This gorgeous flowering vine should be started indoors in a warm spot about March. It’s sold as a tuber or potted plant.  Plants start blooming when vines are about three feet long and are covered with beautiful crimson and gold flowers that can be 5 inches long and are reminiscent of tiger lilies.  There are also yellow colored varieties.  You can grow this vine in a large hanging basket or train them on a trellis in a container.  It can also be planted in the ground near a fence or suitable structure.  It likes full sun.  Glory lily is stored as dormant bulbs in the winter, just like canna or glads.




Amazon Lily
en.wikimedia.com
Eucharis Amazonica (Amazon Lily)

This tropical lily can be planted in containers for summer bloom and it makes a great winter houseplant too.  Shiny green foliage growing about 18 inches high supports periodical spikes of pure white waxy flowers that have a delightful scent. Letting the soil in the pot get fairly dry for a month and then resuming regular watering will promote blooming.  It likes regular fertilization and should be placed in light shade outdoors, bright light indoors.

Here are some sources for the plants listed above.  www.logees.com







Forcing spring flowers 

Michigan winters can be long and gloomy and you may be longing for those first spring flowers. You can cheat a little and get that spring feeling simply by forcing some flowering branches into bloom early.   They make a delightful bouquet to lift the winter spirits.

By the time March arrives most Michigan plants have had enough dormancy chilling so that a spell of warm weather can quickly bring them into bloom.  By bringing branches of flowering plants into warm rooms we can hurry the process along.  Not every plant can be forced into bloom; it’s the branches of woody ornamental plants that bloom in early spring that can give you those perky blooms.

Good plants to try are forsythia, flowering quince, crabapples, flowering almond, redbud, flowering dogwoods, spirea, and branches from most fruit trees such as apricot, peach, apple, cherry, plum and pears.  Branches of pussy willow can provide fuzzy catkins.  You may even want to add some branches that add green (or other colored) leaves to your bouquet.  Maples and willows for example, have many leaf color variations that can be a pleasing touch.  Magnolias and lilacs can be tried, but it takes longer for them to bloom inside and success isn’t a sure thing.

Use nice sharp pruning shears to get pieces of woody plants that are the right size for your vase.  Use care not to destroy the shape of the plant you are cutting from. Get permission to cut branches from the trees or shrubs if they don’t belong to you.

Make your cuts on a slant just above a bud on a branch.  This is so a long bare stub won’t be left on the plant.  You are looking for branches with flower buds, which are generally fatter than leaf buds.  If you are in doubt take a thumbnail and cut a bud open, you should be able to tell whether petals or leaves are hidden inside.  Of course as stated above, some leaves may be desirable additions to the vase.

Bring your cut branches into the house and remove any buds along the branch that will be underwater in your vase.  You may want to crush the bottom of heavier branches so they take up water better.  Place the branches in a vase of warm water.  Put them in a cooler area of the home- 55- 65 degrees F would be ideal - (it will feel warm to them).  Put them in good light but not in a sunny window.  Keep the vase full enough that the bottoms of the stems are never above the water level.  If any stem is out of water for more than a few minutes it should have a new cut made at the bottom.  If the water begins to smell, dump it and add fresh water.

When the plants begin to bloom you can move them to a place where you want to display them.  Blooming may take anywhere from a few days to 2 weeks depending on the plant and the conditions.  You should notice the buds swelling and beginning to show color as time progresses.  If after two weeks you notice no swelling or signs of life you may have chosen dead branches or branches from plants that don’t respond to this type of stimulus.   Discard those branches.

The blooms will last about a week.  They will be larger and last longer in cooler temperatures. Taking cuttings every few days can prolong the time you have stems in bloom.   Once warm weather begins to arrive outside, stems may only need a day or two to break into bloom inside.  

Forcing some spring flowering plants into bloom early is a fast track to spring.  It’s quick and easy to do, even though it may mean a trip outside into bitter winter weather.  So bundle up and get rid of that cabin fever by taking a walk outside to get some branches to force into bloom.  You’ll be pleased you did it.

How to grow peas

In the spring nothing tastes better than fresh green peas whether you eat them fresh from the pod or cook them.  Peas are an easy garden crop for Michigan gardeners and grow early enough that the garden spot they grew in can be used for another type of vegetable later in the season.   April is an excellent month to plant peas in Michigan but you can plant them until about May 15 and still get a crop.

There are two basic kinds of peas, those you shell to eat the peas and those that you eat the pod with the peas.  The edible pod peas are often called snow peas or oriental peas.  Shell peas are often called English peas.  Another type of pea is the sugar snap pea, in which you eat both the pod and slightly larger than snow pea size peas inside.

Snow peas
en.wikimedia.com
Good shell pea varieties for planting in Michigan include: Wando, Lincoln, Thomas Laxton, Karina, and Legacy.  Edible pod varieties suggested are: Oregon Sugar, Mammoth Melting and Sugar Sprint.  You may want to purchase inoculated seed or buy a package of inoculant.  Pea seeds can be inoculated with a naturally occurring soil bacteria that helps them convert nitrogen from the air and gets them off to a faster start in cold soil.  It is a natural product and won’t affect any organic growing plans that you have.

All types of peas are planted the same way, as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring.  Don’t worry about frost coming after you have planted them- peas are a cool season crop and will do just fine.  You can speed germination if you soak pea seeds in warm water for a couple of hours before planting.  Plant your peas about an inch deep and 3 inches apart.  Any type of soil will do, as long as it drains well.  A sandy loam area works better in the spring than heavy clay if you have a choice.

All peas need something to climb on, (there are so called bush peas but they flop over and also need support), so add some kind of trellis for peas when you plant them.  Traditionally small branches are stuck in the ground, called pea brush, for the vines to climb.  Branches at least as big as a pencil in diameter and 4 feet high are needed.  These are stuck into the ground around the peas so that they hold each other up.

If you want something a bit neater looking use a piece of wire fence attached to posts, with the peas planted in front of it.  You may have to wind a wayward vine into the fence at the beginning of growth but most pea vines will readily climb onto a fence.  If you have a fence around your garden, you can plant peas in front of it.

How many peas to plant will depend on whether you just want fresh eating peas or if you want to can or freeze peas.  For a family of 4 who just wants fresh peas a 6-8 foot row or 20 -30 plants is probably enough.  Double or triple that amount if you want peas for canning or freezing.

Peas have nodules on their roots that take nitrogen from the air.  Fertilization isn’t generally needed for peas.  They will appreciate regular watering if spring is dry.  If an inch of rain doesn’t fall during a week they will need you to water them.  After the peas are 3 inches high mulch them with straw, chopped leaves or compost to keep the soil cool and moist.

Peas will begin blooming 6-8 weeks after they come up, depending on the weather and variety.  When you see blooms start watching for pea pods as they form and grow quickly.  Pick edible pod peas when the seeds inside the pod are barely visible bumps and the pods are still flat.  You can shell the peas and eat them like regular peas if you let them get too large. 

Pick shell type and sugar snap peas young too, when the peas inside are still tiny and tender.  Split the pod with your fingernail and use your thumb to push the shell peas out into a bowl. 

Keep all kinds of peas picked and don’t let pods get large and start to dry out.  If too many pods start maturing the pea plant will stop producing peas.  If you keep the pods picked while they are young and the weather is cool and moist you will probably get a month of harvest time.

Peas have few insect pests or diseases.  They are favorites of rabbits and deer however and may need to be protected.

Pick peas just before you want to use them or freeze them.  After they are picked the sugar in them quickly starts to turn to starch and your peas will not be as tasty as truly fresh peas. If there are more than you can eat, freeze the excess.

Peas don’t like hot weather and will naturally die back when the weather starts getting above 80 degrees every day.   When that happens, pull the vines and put them on the compost pile and plant something in their place, like cucumbers if you leave the trellis up or even corn, which will appreciate the nitrogen the peas left in the soil.

If you didn’t get enough peas in the spring you can plant a fall crop of peas.  Plant this crop about the end of July.   They’ll start maturing as the weather gets cooler.  Make sure to keep them mulched and watered at this time of the year.

The first day of spring is one thing, and the first spring day is another. The difference between them is sometimes as great as a month. ~Henry Van Dyke

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Secrets to success when propagating succulent plants

Create more from existing succulent plants through successful propagation.
Posted on February 13, 2015 by Gretchen Voyle, Michigan State University Extension

Succulents are a favorite group of plants for many indoor gardeners. Succulents and cacti are part of the same succulent family. They have the advantage of growing slowly, requiring minimum care and not outgrowing their locations rapidly. They are simple plants; they require direct sun, well-draining soil and rarely, if ever, need to be fertilized. Sandy soils are best. It is possible to purchase cactus mixes that are sandy with a bit of gravel. A great deal of organic matter is not necessary. Watering is done occasionally. When you think of the origin of these plants, a hot, dry climate with lean soils and not a great deal of rainfall give you the framework of what they expect.

Succulents can be propagated in several ways. It is unusual for them to bloom and then produce viable seeds. The usual way is called vegetative propagation. It is essentially creating a clone from the original plant.

Division or separation
Many succulents multiply themselves through division, but some cacti will have small plants appear along the ribs or leaf edges of the plant. When the plantlets are big enough to handle easily, they can be removed. (See the section below about callusing because of the wound created when they are separated.)

Echeveria Topsy Turvy
With division of other succulents, little plants come up surrounding the parent plant when it is mature. Eventually, more little plants come up and surround the larger surrounding plants and the container is filled. The plant and soil can be taken from the pot and the small plants gently removed. Water the plant well before taking it out of the container so more soil will adhere to the roots. There needs to be roots on the small plants for them to grow. If they are without roots, it may take a long time for roots to form. Pot the little ones in containers. If the little plants are without roots or they broke off, see the information below on callusing.

Cuttings and callusing
A few succulents can be propagated by taking cuttings off the original plant. Sometimes it is because the plant has been damaged or a misplaced elbow and an unceremonious freefall to the floor. Unfortunately, the broken part will not repair and grow again, but the broken segment can be used to generate another plant. The important part is that the broken piece cannot be potted up immediately. It needs a period of time to dry or “callus.”

If the freshly cut piece comes in contact with damp soil, it will rot. Michigan State University Extension recommends letting the cuttings sit for a few days or longer for big pieces. After a period of time, the damp, broken area forms a tough skin or callus over the tissue. The callused plant part can be placed in slightly damp soil. Embed the piece very shallowly. If it is placed too deeply, it will not grow. It may be necessary to support the small plant by having it lean on a craft stick or tongue depressor or against the side of the container. It often takes many months for succulents to form roots. Do not place small plants on a cold window sill or close to a cold window because it will take even longer to grow roots. If a full grown leaf or branch is broken off a succulent like Haworthia or Euphorbia after callusing, it could grow roots. However, if the leaf is broken off Aloe vera, it will not.

There are enough differences in the world of succulents that one size or one rule does not fit all. Smart Gardeners are discovering this continually when learning about plants. Invite a succulent home. They make mannerly and attractive houseguests.
This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. Kimwillis151@gmail.com
Attention Beekeepers!!! We are looking for individuals to participate with a state-wide apiary registry. We are currently developing the website/database for this project and we are looking for beekeepers who will come in on the ground floor of this project and help us get it launched. Not asking for any money, only your time and/or input. Please send us an e-mail if you are interested in helping the bees or want to know more.

In specific, we are looking for people with beekeeping experience to be board members for the organization, inspectors for different areas around Michigan and volunteers to help us get the word out at different clubs, festivals, etc. Please consider helping us and the bees too! Visit our website and let us know if you can help! www.MichiganApiaryRegistry.org

New- Here’s a link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/

New- Woodland Treasures for the Shade Garden Fri, March 27, 10am, Meadow Brook Hall, Rochester, MI       
How to use shade plants to extend the flowering season. Sponsored by Meadow Brook Garden Club. $5.  MBHGCMembers@gmail.com.

New- Trees for Tomorrow: Planting & Maintaining Healthy Trees, beginning March 30, 6:30-8:30pm, Pleasant Ridge Community Center , Pleasant Ridge, MI
This is a 5 week series sponsored by SOCWA. The $40.  Fee includes a class reference book.  You must register by Feb 23rd  by calling  248-546-5818.

ABC’s of Growing Herbs Sat, March 7, 1pm, all locations of English Gardens, see below.
Herbs are easy to grow in your garden & do wonders for enhancing your meals. Get tips on the best varieties.  Class is free.  
Sign up in-store or on-line: www.EnglishGardens.com.  Locations:  Ann Arbor, Maple Village Shopping Center, 155 N. Maple Rd., Ann Arbor, Phone: (734) 332-7900, Clinton Township, 44850 Garfield Rd. at Hall Rd., Clinton Twp., MI, Phone: (586) 286-6100, Dearborn Heights, 22650 Ford Rd., Dearborn Heights, MI  Nursery: (313) 278-4433, Eastpointe, 22501 Kelly Rd., Eastpointe, MI, Phone: (586) 771-4200, Royal Oak, 4901 Coolidge Hwy, Royal Oak, MI , Phone: (248) 280-9500, West Bloomfield, 6370 Orchard Lake Rd., West Bloomfield, MI, Phone: (248) 851-7506

Wonderful World & Folklore of Cabbage, Thursday, March 12, 7pm, Kulick Community Ctr., Ferndale, MI
Sponsored by the Ferndale Garden Club and presented by Virginia Froehlich. Guests are welcome.  For more information call 248-398-6283.

7th Annual Growing Great Gardens, Sat, March 14, 8am-4pm, Wayne Co. Community College, 21000 Northline, Taylor, MI
         
Presented in partnership with the Taylor Garden Club, Taylor Conservatory Foundation and Wayne County Community College District, this garden seminar features 4 presentations, the latest in garden trends, door prizes, lunch, shopping & more.  Cost is $35 before Mar 2, $45 after.  Sign up for a bonus class with Janet Macunovich, “Lunch & Learn- Fine Pruning in the Landscape”, just $10 additional.  Registration Forms @taylorconservatory.org Or @taylorgardenclub.com or email pk48180@yahoo.com Or phone 313-715-8316

Great Lakes Region American Hosta Society / Hosta College 2015, Friday evening, March 20th  and Saturday March 21st , Upper Valley Career Center, 8811 Career Drive, Piqua, Ohio.

At this conference there is a rare plant auction starting at 6 pm Friday evening and on Saturday, beginning at 8 am participants will attend 5 classes from a list of 70 to choose from.  There is a big vendor’s area and a buffet luncheon is included.  In the evening there is a banquet.  Cost is $42 for members, $55 for non-members.

    
17th Annual Conference ASSOCIATION OF PROFESSIONAL GARDENERS Saturday, March 7, 2015, 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. Waldenwoods Banquet and Conference Center, 2975 Old US-23, Hartland MI.

Drawing Inspiration from Japanese Garden Design
 Our Guest Presenter for the day will be Greg Afman, Head Horticulturist for the Japanese Garden at Frederik Meijer Gardens in Grand Rapids, Michigan. This phenomenal new garden will debut in June 2015, and as part of his presentation, Greg will share a first-hand review of its progress.   Greg is a knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and engaging speaker, whom we discovered last August, when he led APG members on a tour of the future Japanese Garden.

His presentations will cover: 
The Evolution of the Japanese Garden
Applying Japanese Aesthetics to your Garden - This presentation conveys how Japanese design principles are universally applicable to all gardens especially here in Michigan.
Create Your Own Bonsai Planter - In the afternoon Greg will facilitate a hands-on workshop, in which all Conference attendees will create and take home their own Bonsai.  All materials will be supplied with the exception of wire cutters and a small pair of scissors or pruners, which we ask you to bring.
Cost: APG Member $60; Non-member $80. Includes Continental breakfast, lunch, conference materials, and workshop supplies. Registration Deadline: Friday, February 20, 2015. Seating is limited, so please register early! Registration at link below or call/email Sue Grubba, president, (248) 535-4940, or suegrubba@sbcglobal.net

Backyard Fruit Tree Pruning Workshop Saturday morning, March 28, 2015 from 10am to 12:30pm, Greater Holy Temple C.O.G.I.C. , 6702 N. Dort Hwy, Flint, MI

Bob Tritten, MSUE District Fruit Educator will give an outdoor demonstration workshop at two community orchards. We will also visit the Uni-Corn Community Garden to cover pruning of older fruit trees. Participants will learn the basic methods of pruning young and bearing fruit trees. Pre-registration required by 3/25/15. Workshop to be held rain or shine (walking required)

Contact: Deb Hamilton at 810-244-8547 or email: hamiltod@anr.msu.edu Cost per person: $10.00 Make check payable to edible flint Mail to: MSU Extension, 605 N. Saginaw Street, Suite 1A, Flint, MI 48502.  Please include NAME, ADDRESS, PHONE # AND EMAIL ADDRESS.

Spring 2015 Symposium by the Master Gardeners of St. Clair County, Saturday, March 21, 2015 - 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m., Cornerstone Church, 4025 North Road, Clyde, MI 48049 - (Two miles west of Port Huron, MI)

Keynote speaker Sean Hogan Portland, OR. Cistus Nursery.  Class topics: Richard Bitner-  “Designing with Conifers”, Panayoti Kelaidis, “Rockgardens”,
 Susan Betz: “Magical Moons & Seasonal Circles”, Sean Hogan: “More Than Meets the Eye”.

Early bird registration: $80.00, includes all speakers, continental breakfast, lunch, and snack break. Late registration,(after February 20, 2015), $90.00. Make check payable to MGSCC (Master Gardeners of St. Clair County) Checks or money orders only, to be cashed upon arrival in the mail – no refunds can be made after February 20.

Mail registration to: Sandy Billings, 99 Richman Rd., St. Clair, MI 48079, call Sandy at (810) 367-3399; E-mail: sanderan51@yahoo.com or Lisa Sharrow at (810) 329-3722. More information and Registration forms are also online at www.mgoscc.org

The MSU Hort Club 2015 Spring Show and Plant Sale Saturday April 18th 2014, 9am-6pm and Sunday April 19th 2014, 10am- 4pm located in the head house of the Plant and Soil Sciences Building (PSS) at Michigan State University, 1600 Bogue St, East Lansing (located on the corner of Wilson and Bogue.)

No information is given about what the show entails or whether there is a fee to enter but if you want to see the list of plants they are selling you can go here.

There is parking in the 4H Children’s garden parking lot just south of the PSS bldg, in the vet med lot across Bogue and the Horticulture Department lot to the west of PSS. (*Note: locations are marked on the map with 'Parking') Be sure to read parking signs as parking tickets are common on MSU's campus. Please enter through either the south door of the head house or through the greenhouses.


MSU Horticulture Gardens’ Spring Program: Can You Dig It?, May 2, 2015 8 a.m. - 4 p.m., Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue Street, East Lansing, MI
Sessions include: Woodland wonders from the wild, Art of Gardening, Joy of Propagation, Cultivating the recipe garden, lunch from Grand Traverse Pie Company included.  Rare plant sales.  Early registration (on or before April 21) for MSU Horticulture Garden Member $69 Early registration (on or before April 21) for non-MSU Horticulture Garden Member $79 Registrations received after April 21 $89
Contact: 517-353-0443, hgardens@msu.edu.

Gardening and All That Jazz – Innovation and Sustainability For Your Garden, Saturday, April 25, 2015 – 7 am – 4:15 pm, Oakland Schools Conference Center 2111 Pontiac Lake Road, Waterford

Sessions include: Will Allen – Growing Power and the Good Food Revolution: A visual story of how Growing Power came to be and of Will Allen’s personal journey, the lives he has touched, and a grassroots movement that is changing the way our nation eats., Will Allen – How To Put “Growing Power” in Your Backyard: How to make your own compost bin, outdoor and indoor worm bins and raised beds. Matthew Benson – Growing Beautiful Food: Cultivating the Incredible, Edible Garden - Kerry Ann Mendez – Gardening Simpli­fied for Changing Lifestyle: Exceptional Plants and Design Solutions for Aging and Time-pressed Gardeners

Lunch and snacks included in cost.  Garden marketplace and jazz musicians. Early Bloomers Registration Fee: $70 After March 14, 2015 Fee: $80 Registration at the door is not available. Registration Deadline: Wednesday, April 20, 2015  Registr by going to http://www.mgsoc.org/2015Conference_registration.pdf   For more info:  Nancy Strodl, Phone: 248-552-5095, E-mail: nancy_strodl@comcast.net

Horticultural Therapy: Connecting People and Plants-March 13, 2015 - March 14, 2015 Plant and Soil Sciences Building, 1066 Bogue St., East Lansing, MI 48824

The Michigan Horticultural Therapy Association is excited to present two events 36th Annual Conference ‒ Friday, March 13, 8:30 a.m. ‒ 4 p.m. and a workshop ‒ Saturday, March 14, 8:30 a.m. ‒ 12:30 p.m. in conjunction with Agriculture and Natural Resources Week at Michigan State University. Join us for presentations, networking, vendors, books sales and more as we learn more about using horticulture as therapy.

For complete program and registration information, go to www.michiganhta.org or contact Cathy Flinton at cathy@michiganhta.org.

Michigan Herb Associates Annual Conference- March 13, 2015 - March 14, 2015 Eppley Center and Business College Complex/Kellogg Hotel and Conference Center, MSU Campus, East Lansing MI.

The theme of the 28th annual Michigan Herb Associates (MHA) Conference is “Sensational Savory.” The Michigan State University (MSU) Department of Horticulture and Michigan Herb Associates sponsor the conference. The two-day MHA conference is filled with programs of interest to beginning and advanced herb gardeners and crafters who enjoy growing and using herbs as a hobby.

Lectures and demonstrations will take place at the Eppley Center and Business College Complex. A market of vendors will offer herbal plants and topiaries, herbal food-related items, decorative garden ornaments and jewelry, and many other gift items. MHA will have a small gift shop along with speaker book sales and signings. A live plant auction will take place Friday and Saturday.

Visit the MHA website at http://miherb.org/ to register online or download the registration form.

Organic Farming Intensives Initiative Classes March 12, 2015 - 9 am- 4 pm - Michigan State University, Brody Complex, East Lansing MI.
The Organic Farming Intensives Initiative will offer three to four all-day classes of single topics with a focus on organic farming. Possible topics include vegetable production, fruit tree management, soil health, transplants, pest management, farm-plan building and organic certification.

For more information, contact Vicki Morrone at sorrone@msu.edu or 517-282-3557. To learn more about the Organic Farming Exchange, visit http://www.michiganorganic.msu.edu/.

Michigan Beekeepers Association Spring Conference Friday, March 13, 2015 and Saturday, March 14, 2015 at the Kellogg Center on the Michigan State University campus, East Lansing, Mi.

There will be break-out sessions on both days covering a wide range of topics that should be of interest for both the beginner and advanced beekeeper alike.  And, of course, the ever-popular vendor area will be back so that you can see all of the latest beekeeping equipment in one place.  Also, this year we will be expanding the vendors to include a “beekeeping” trade show.  The trade show will feature major manufacturers of beekeeping equipment and gear.  Here will be your opportunity to see what’s new in the beekeeping world and meet the folks who actually make your stuff!

Pre-registration is available on-line and we encourage all attendees to do so.  When you pre-register you get a discount too!  We encourage all conference attendees to pre-register.  If you pre-pay when you pre-register, your conference material will be available for immediate pick-up… no waiting in line.  For more information go to http://www.michiganbees.org/2015-spring-conference/

MSU Tollgate Maple Tapping and Pancake Celebration March 15, 2015-10 a.m. - 12 p.m. or 1 - 3 p.m. 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI,

Celebrate the Maple Tapping Season with Pancakes at MSU Tollgate! With a full-on pancake breakfast or lunch!

Identify and tap a maple tree, tour the sugar shack with ongoing evaporation, take a wagon ride, taste maple syrup, and tackle historical tools! Prior to the 2-hour program, enjoy a pancake celebration in the historic, 19th-century barn. Pancakes, coffee, cocoa, and of course, real maple syrup will be provided!

Eat your fill of yummy food and grab a cup of coffee 9 - 10 a.m. before your 2-hour program. Enjoy entertainment in the 19th century barn while you eat and relax.

Need to sleep in? Join us at 12 p.m. for a pancake lunch before heading out to the sugar bush at 1 p.m.

Cost is $12.00 per person. If cancellations are needed, please do so before March 11, 2015, to avoid cancellation fee of $5 per person registered.

The last day to register online is March 11, 2015.
Contact: tollgateprograms@anr.msu.edu or call Mandy Jacobs at 248-347-0269 ext. 238.  

Grand Rapids Smart Gardening Conference March 7, 2015- 8:30 a.m. - 4 p.m., Monroe Meeting Rooms DeVos Place, Grand Rapids, Michigan
 Classes include: “Smart Design of the Living Landscape-Putting back the Layers”, Rick Darke, “Tapping the Smart Gardener’s Work Force—Predators, Parasitoids and Pollinators!”, Elly Maxwell, Entomologist, Dow Gardens, Vegetable Potpourri for the Smart Gardener”, Rebecca Krans, “Grow More with Less-a Smart Approach to Gardening!”, Vincent Simeone Horticulturist, Author, Lecturer, Oyster Bay, New York.
Cost:  Early Bird Registration by Feb. 13 - $59  Late Registration - $70 Must pre-register. Enrollment deadline is Friday, Feb. 27, 2015 or until full. More info and online registration       http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=smartgardening2015 or  Contact: finneran@msu.edu, 616-632-7865

28th ANNUAL MICHIGAN WILDFLOWER CONFERENCE- Sunday March 8 and Monday March 9, 2015- Kellogg Hotel & Conference Center , MSU campus, East Lansing MI.
Landscape Design: Where Art and Nature Meet.  For full agenda please see http://wildflowersmich.org/

$65 for one day, $120 for both until 2/25/2015, after that $75 and $140.  WAM membership required, add $15.    Laura Liebler, Registrar Phone: 734.662.2206

MSU offered a variety of on line seminars for those who were interested in beginning farming topics of various types.  Some of those are now available free to watch at the address below.  Gardeners may be interested in topics like organic pest controlGet the list of topics and links here.

Conifer Propagation Seminar at Hidden Lake Gardens, March 7, 2015 – 9am – 4pm, 6214 Monroe Road (M-50),Tipton, MI

Join us as we share what we know about some of the rare plants of the Harper Collection of Dwarf and Rare Conifers. Now condensed into one day!

Learn the art and science of making more conifers (cone-bearing plants). Staff and volunteers will share their extensive knowledge and experience on the nuances of propagation. Seminar includes:

Hands-on grafting of 6 different plants*
Cuttings of at least 16 plants*
Lunch, and
Tour of Harper Collection or propagation facility
* Species will likely include Thuja, Juniperus, Pinus, Picea, and Abies. Extensive care instructions provided.

Designed for the beginning propagator, this seminar will share techniques even experienced propagators will appreciate. Advance registration is required, but experience is not.  
                  
Cost: $100 per person early registration ($90 per person for Friends of HLG) $125 per person after Feb 21. Registration is limited and will close on March 1st. Registration is required. Hidden Lake Gardens - www.HiddenLakeGardens.msu.edu (517) 431-2060


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


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